Thank you for the information, I have been fighting with my cabinets for 12 years, replacing the hinges as they break, and every time I had to play the game of guessing and jerry-rig different parts to make them work. I am pretty sure I now have a larger selection of hinges than Lowes from all the wrong ones I bought over the years.
Another important attribute of cabinets: frameless vs face frame. The hinges shown in this vid are overlay hinges, mounted to the face frame of the cabinet box. They have prongs that wrap around that face frame width (likely 3/4") to help keep it secured. Frameless overlay hinges look different, usually bigger/wider + more screw holes on the side that mounts to the box since that side is on a flat surface and can't use prongs to help. I'm not a pro - I'm just having to learn all this for my weird situation and figured I'd pass along this point.
I am trying to install the hidden hinges on my 35 years old cabinet of 43 doors, some doors are 3/4" overlay but some others are all over between 1/2" to 1 1/4" overlay. Can I just buy the 3/4" overlay hinges (to make it easy), or I have to buy them exactly as they are right now? Thanks for the video, now I know what to measure.
on your amazon link where do you find the cup depth? I have the overlay measurement. I dont think mine is a 1/2" in depth or is that all soft close. house is newer with in 10 yrs.
Once you determine your cup depth and overlay, how do you order the correct hinge from Amazon or Bloom? BTW your videos are truly some of the best I’ve seen. Thank you !
Thanks Scott. I just start this upgrade on my kitchen and bath cabinets. Given the size and shape of the hinges are near identical, and the functionality works nicely, would you see any need to upgrade every hinge vs just one of the 3 door hinges? (price is not a big deal, just thinking about practicality and necessity)
No. It is the outside edge of the DOOR. You are measuring from the inside edge of the cabinet, to the outside edge of the door. So if the door is FLUSH with the edge of the cabinet, you measure from the cubby inside edge, to the outside edge of the cabinet (since that is the same as the flush edge of the door.). If the door edge is not flush, so that you can see a part of the edge of the cabinet when the door is closed, then he uses that second piece of tape to mark a line for where the door edge ends. A much simpler way is install only the first tape. Then, with the door closed, measure from the tape to the edge of the door. Thanks.
and the outside edge measurement with the blue tape is not on the edge buy in about 1/8 inch, how did he determine how far to go in from the edge of the cabinet?
@@jimrodrigues4989 the angle of the camera made it not clear. the tape is a little in from the edge because if the camera was stright on we would of seen that when the door was closed that the edge of the door was a little in from the edge also. So it looks like he wentr in an 1/8th inche from the edgse but in reality, that is where the door edge is when closed. Sorry hard to expain. and trust me I was asking myself the same exact question. but i listened to him a few times and now i think i haver it correct
You lost me a little bit on the overlay. I'm going to be helping a friend who wants these types installed on cabinets that don't already have them. I have forstner bits to make the holes, but I want to make sure that I put said holes in the right place on the cabinet door itself. Any tips?
Thank you for this video. At my wife's request (of course ;-)) I am replacing flush mount (full inset partial wrap?) hinges with soft closing, concealed, mortise-type hinges. Our cabinet doors have a routed hidden curve (grab edge) all around the edge. This means when looking at the cabinet straight on there's a 1/2" overlay but because of this routed grab edge the actual overlay is about 1/8". When measuring the overlay for a mortised soft-close hinge I suspect I should use the outside edge of the door; in other words the 1/2" since that is truly how far the door edge extends past the frame edge. Correct?
what do I do if the screws on my hinges are not the wood screws- they are more like a larger course thread designed to work as more on an insert? I can't seem to find those type of screws
I did but you would be fine only replacing the top and bottom then leaving the middle as the old hinge. You will still get the soft close effect without problems.
Yep, both the old and new hinges had a cup diameter of 35 mm and a depth of 1/2 in (12.6 mm). At least for me the holes didn't line up so I needed to drill new pilot holes and demonstrated in this video th-cam.com/video/NiDSpZX3QQA/w-d-xo.html
Great video. Do you know how to adjust the height of my Lazy Susan so it doesn’t rub at the bottom? I have watched other videos and they all seem to have height adjusting screws and mine does not. Here’s a video of mine: th-cam.com/video/A1trl_vvbJo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Oxephh9RhO7lWyc1
![How to fit concealed (Euro-style) hinges for overlay & inset cabinet doors [video # 348]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/-Y6MEQlFEhQ/mqdefault.jpg)
![How to fit concealed (Euro-style) hinges for overlay & inset cabinet doors [video # 348]](/img/tr.png)
You’ve made being a new homeowner a breeze. Thx Scotty G
Thank you for the information,
I have been fighting with my cabinets for 12 years, replacing the hinges as they break, and every time I had to play the game of guessing and jerry-rig different parts to make them work. I am pretty sure I now have a larger selection of hinges than Lowes from all the wrong ones I bought over the years.
Greener pastures ahead. Good luck on the project.
THANK YOU!!! Looked all over to figure out how to measure for new hinges, and this is the only video I could figure out
Another important attribute of cabinets: frameless vs face frame.
The hinges shown in this vid are overlay hinges, mounted to the face frame of the cabinet box. They have prongs that wrap around that face frame width (likely 3/4") to help keep it secured.
Frameless overlay hinges look different, usually bigger/wider + more screw holes on the side that mounts to the box since that side is on a flat surface and can't use prongs to help.
I'm not a pro - I'm just having to learn all this for my weird situation and figured I'd pass along this point.
Thank you so much! We have struggled to find the correct hinges to replace some broken ones, and this has really helped.
Thank youuuu l! Little by little I want to upgrade these hinges and drawer slides!
I am trying to install the hidden hinges on my 35 years old cabinet of 43 doors, some doors are 3/4" overlay but some others are all over between 1/2" to 1 1/4" overlay. Can I just buy the 3/4" overlay hinges (to make it easy), or I have to buy them exactly as they are right now? Thanks for the video, now I know what to measure.
Thank you for the video. This made it super simple for me to change mine over.
on your amazon link where do you find the cup depth? I have the overlay measurement. I dont think mine is a 1/2" in depth or is that all soft close. house is newer with in 10 yrs.
God bless you for posting this!! I could not figure out and you taught me so much!!
Great, happy to hear the video helped you out! Best of luck on your project.
Are there hinges that one could get that don’t fit inside but lie flat on the surface of the base?
Once you determine your cup depth and overlay, how do you order the correct hinge from Amazon or Bloom? BTW your videos are truly some of the best I’ve seen. Thank you !
Thanks Scott. I just start this upgrade on my kitchen and bath cabinets. Given the size and shape of the hinges are near identical, and the functionality works nicely, would you see any need to upgrade every hinge vs just one of the 3 door hinges? (price is not a big deal, just thinking about practicality and necessity)
I would probably do 2 of the 3. One top and one bottom. Help balance the load and they should last longer.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs thanks much!
This was very helpful! Thanks for your help!
Best of luck on the project.
your outside edge measurement is not on the edge but in about 1/8 inch, correct ? How do you determine how far to go in? Thanks
So overlay is the distance from the outside edge of the cabinet door to the inside edge of the cabinet cubby?
No. It is the outside edge of the DOOR. You are measuring from the inside edge of the cabinet, to the outside edge of the door. So if the door is FLUSH with the edge of the cabinet, you measure from the cubby inside edge, to the outside edge of the cabinet (since that is the same as the flush edge of the door.). If the door edge is not flush, so that you can see a part of the edge of the cabinet when the door is closed, then he uses that second piece of tape to mark a line for where the door edge ends. A much simpler way is install only the first tape. Then, with the door closed, measure from the tape to the edge of the door. Thanks.
and the outside edge measurement with the blue tape is not on the edge buy in about 1/8 inch, how did he determine how far to go in from the edge of the cabinet?
@@jimrodrigues4989 the angle of the camera made it not clear. the tape is a little in from the edge because if the camera was stright on we would of seen that when the door was closed that the edge of the door was a little in from the edge also. So it looks like he wentr in an 1/8th inche from the edgse but in reality, that is where the door edge is when closed. Sorry hard to expain. and trust me I was asking myself the same exact question. but i listened to him a few times and now i think i haver it correct
You lost me a little bit on the overlay. I'm going to be helping a friend who wants these types installed on cabinets that don't already have them. I have forstner bits to make the holes, but I want to make sure that I put said holes in the right place on the cabinet door itself. Any tips?
Thank you for this video. At my wife's request (of course ;-)) I am replacing flush mount (full inset partial wrap?) hinges with soft closing, concealed, mortise-type hinges. Our cabinet doors have a routed hidden curve (grab edge) all around the edge. This means when looking at the cabinet straight on there's a 1/2" overlay but because of this routed grab edge the actual overlay is about 1/8". When measuring the overlay for a mortised soft-close hinge I suspect I should use the outside edge of the door; in other words the 1/2" since that is truly how far the door edge extends past the frame edge. Correct?
Thank you so very much. This was very helpful!!!
No problem Alicia, let me know if you have any questions on your project.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs I certainly will do that and thank you for extending your offer to help. I do appreciate it.
what do I do if the screws on my hinges are not the wood screws- they are more like a larger course thread designed to work as more on an insert? I can't seem to find those type of screws
Some of my taller doors have 3 hinges. Do I have to replace all three to get the soft close to work?
I did but you would be fine only replacing the top and bottom then leaving the middle as the old hinge. You will still get the soft close effect without problems.
You didn't mention the length of the hinge. In the hardware stores they come in various lengths
How about the diameter of the cup hole? Are they all the same?
Yep, both the old and new hinges had a cup diameter of 35 mm and a depth of 1/2 in (12.6 mm). At least for me the holes didn't line up so I needed to drill new pilot holes and demonstrated in this video th-cam.com/video/NiDSpZX3QQA/w-d-xo.html
Looks like Josh Lucas
Hi, I bought new hinges for my cabinets but holes doesn’t match with old ones. What to do ?
Why not just take the door to the hardware store and get what'll fit?
Great video. Do you know how to adjust the height of my Lazy Susan so it doesn’t rub at the bottom? I have watched other videos and they all seem to have height adjusting screws and mine does not. Here’s a video of mine: th-cam.com/video/A1trl_vvbJo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Oxephh9RhO7lWyc1
what's that on top of your head? you call that hair??