@@lisalong1086 Yep! Kind of an old school way of doing a tubeless conversion. Because most of the older bikes, and some of the newer ones have wheels that are not "tubeless ready", this is the cheaper alternative to buying new wheels that are tubeless ready. I hope that this clarifies things. Thanks for watching!
@@lisalong1086 This allows a tubeless / flat proof experience on your fatbike. There is also a nice decreaae in rolling resistance for easier pedalling & performance.
@@themostlymikeshow I have a Schwinn that I ride on rails to trails, the front tire was always going flat so we paid spokes and skis business $25 to fix it. they said the tire was just fine but they repaired something else, they were unclear anyway... It's been ridden twice since and now it's flat again. It's not like I ride often, or down a slalom made of rocks like you do. Should I get a new wheel or tire or both? What would you do?
I'm assuming that they would have replaced the tube, but sometimes if the flat was caused by a thorn or such, ordinarily one would take a gloved hand the whole way around the inside of the tire to verify that there's nothing still poking through. Otherwise, said object will continue to puncture subsequent new tubes until it is removed. This is just a guess, but usually, I would think that a bike shop would do this. Was this repair recent enough to ask them what they did?
@@themostlymikeshow Yes the repair was about 3 weeks ago, hate to mention to them, that they may have not actually found the issue, but I guess it's time to ask them what's next. Or maybe there's a TH-cam video for that?
Without seeing the actual tire and tube, I am guessing that it probably needs another tube, but I would carefully inspect the inside surfaces of the tire to verify that there's nothing sticking through to jeopardize the new tube.
Great video! I did this 3 years ago and forgot what size tube I used for a 26"x 4" fat tire wheel. Have any suggestions? Still use 24" tube? Thanks, Jim
Thanks for watching and the kind words Jim! Yes, I believe that the 24" will work for just about any of the common ones, but sometimes it's hard to locate the fat tubes. I forgot the size that I used in the video, but I think that there's a link in the description. It's definitely a super wide tube.
Yeah Steven, I did the same thing, and tried using different things in lieu of the foam stuff. The 24 inch extra wide tube is pretty important too. It has to go on tight with no wrinkles. I hope that this helps. Please let me know how you made out with it and if you have any questions. Thanks for watching!
@silkyoolong4840 Thanks for watching. I am pretty sure that that 24-in fat bike tube will work on nearly any of them. I'm not positive on 26 in, but I don't think they make anything smaller in a fat bike tube. You may have to use more of that foam strip to pull up some slack on the inside. I hope it works for you!
@silkyoolong4840 You still need to get something wide like a fat bike tube. You may get away with a skinnier one with a 30 mm rim, but I use a fat bike tube because it sticks out the sides and you just trim out the excess. In your case you may get away with a skinnier tube
Can I ask what does the sil-seal do? It seems like a foam core equivalent. I’ve seen versions of this technique without it so it makes me wonder if it’s necessary?
Thanks for watching rdx. It's possible that it could work without the sill-seal, but it helps separate the tube from the deep part of the rim to create a sealing contact to make the bead seat easier. In some cases, the contact may be enough without. I hope that this helps.
Hi Mike. I'm trying to picture what you mean by cutting the tube inside the rim. The tube is acting as the rim tape, but the blue foam is pushing it so that it will seal to seat the bead.
ahhh.. I spent most of today trying to install some van helgas on my pugsley non-tubeless rims. Worked a couple of years ago, but the tires were just too loose. Yes, using a compressor. Yes, tried over and over and over. Lots of soap etc. Even placed a tube around the tire to keep it in place during inflation. Finally gave up. I've been running ghetto tubeless since 2018 with jumbo jims and one winter with van helgas - never had this problem before. It's like the van helgas were just too loose. Gave up and put a tube in. Gonna be awful for me if I get a flat at 0 Fahrenheit. oh well.
Sorry for the late response Ginnis. I somehow missed this comment. This method should work for those Van Helgas. The key is to use that foam sill seal as the spacer under the 24" split tube to make the seal to the rim edge. I tried other methods, and none of them made that seal tight enough to seat the bead. I hope that this helps.
@@themostlymikeshow I've run ghetto tubeless for 5 years on my Pugsley with the foam sill spacer. The first time I put the Van Helgas on, it worked. Then for the summer I put Jumbo Jims on (4th time for those). But now the Helgas won't seat. :( Maybe I'll retry with the Jims for summer riding, and then see if the Helgas seat next winter.
I run two Cannondale Fat Caad 1s. Both have the Jumbo Jim's from factory, and they both have always sealed perfectly unless it was something like a hole in the tape to deal with. The Van Helgas were on my ex gf's fat bike, and what I did in this video was the only way that we could to get them to seal. Not sure why your Van Helgas would be giving you issues now. Are you sure that the beads aren't nicked? Also, I had a jumbo Jim that wouldn't seal because years of rock gardens had abraded the sidewalls to the point that air was seeping through, although not real obvious with the soapy water.
Thanks for watching TK. Not all rims need the sill seal, but many of the non-tubeless ready rims need a little filler to make the beads of the tires contact the tube so that it will sill to make seating the bead easier or even possible. After the bead is seated, it really doesn't do much at all. I hope that this clarifies it for you.
am I right though if my non-tubeless rims are something of super high quality, nor the hub, it's often just better to just buy tubeless rims and tyres to start with instead of this conversion? Or does ghetto method works better than just a commercially available tubeless setup?
Thanks for watching alicvel. It may or may not, depending on how wide your rim is. I think that I put an Amazon link for the 3" wide in the description under this video. I'll check it to make sure. How wide is the rim on your bike?
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Did this video help you out with your ghetto tubeless conversion? Please tell me about your experiences!
Its a very good instructional video it deserves more views
Please forgive my ignorance, I don't even understand the purpose of this Ghetto Tubeless procedure. Just an old school way of doing things I guess?
@@lisalong1086 Yep! Kind of an old school way of doing a tubeless conversion. Because most of the older bikes, and some of the newer ones have wheels that are not "tubeless ready", this is the cheaper alternative to buying new wheels that are tubeless ready. I hope that this clarifies things. Thanks for watching!
Hope it goes well! If you run into any problems, let me know. Thanks for watching!
@@lisalong1086
This allows a tubeless / flat proof experience on your fatbike.
There is also a nice decreaae in rolling resistance for easier pedalling & performance.
What makes this Video best is the music and you sound kinda ghetto😁
Ha ha! I try to add some humor in all of my videos and make them entertaining as well as informative. Thanks for watching!
@@themostlymikeshow That's how it should be! Very nice😎👌
Great DIY, we learn so much from you Mike.
Thanks Lisa! I'm glad that they help! I am always open for requests! If I can do it, I will do my best to show you how!
@@themostlymikeshow I have a Schwinn that I ride on rails to trails, the front tire was always going flat so we paid spokes and skis business $25 to fix it. they said the tire was just fine but they repaired something else, they were unclear anyway... It's been ridden twice since and now it's flat again. It's not like I ride often, or down a slalom made of rocks like you do. Should I get a new wheel or tire or both? What would you do?
I'm assuming that they would have replaced the tube, but sometimes if the flat was caused by a thorn or such, ordinarily one would take a gloved hand the whole way around the inside of the tire to verify that there's nothing still poking through. Otherwise, said object will continue to puncture subsequent new tubes until it is removed. This is just a guess, but usually, I would think that a bike shop would do this. Was this repair recent enough to ask them what they did?
@@themostlymikeshow Yes the repair was about 3 weeks ago, hate to mention to them, that they may have not actually found the issue, but I guess it's time to ask them what's next. Or maybe there's a TH-cam video for that?
Without seeing the actual tire and tube, I am guessing that it probably needs another tube, but I would carefully inspect the inside surfaces of the tire to verify that there's nothing sticking through to jeopardize the new tube.
Great video! I did this 3 years ago and forgot what size tube I used for a 26"x 4" fat tire wheel. Have any suggestions? Still use 24" tube? Thanks, Jim
Thanks for watching and the kind words Jim! Yes, I believe that the 24" will work for just about any of the common ones, but sometimes it's hard to locate the fat tubes. I forgot the size that I used in the video, but I think that there's a link in the description. It's definitely a super wide tube.
Wish I would have watched this video yesterday. I tried the conventional way wit gorilla tape . Took awhile and ended up not working.
Yeah Steven, I did the same thing, and tried using different things in lieu of the foam stuff. The 24 inch extra wide tube is pretty important too. It has to go on tight with no wrinkles. I hope that this helps. Please let me know how you made out with it and if you have any questions. Thanks for watching!
@themostlymikeshow2582 what tube size would I use for 26in wheels?
@silkyoolong4840 Thanks for watching. I am pretty sure that that 24-in fat bike tube will work on nearly any of them. I'm not positive on 26 in, but I don't think they make anything smaller in a fat bike tube. You may have to use more of that foam strip to pull up some slack on the inside. I hope it works for you!
@themostlymikeshow2582 I should've clarified its just regular 26in wheel not a fat bike. My rim diameter is 30mm meant for downhill racing
@silkyoolong4840 You still need to get something wide like a fat bike tube. You may get away with a skinnier one with a 30 mm rim, but I use a fat bike tube because it sticks out the sides and you just trim out the excess. In your case you may get away with a skinnier tube
Can I ask what does the sil-seal do? It seems like a foam core equivalent. I’ve seen versions of this technique without it so it makes me wonder if it’s necessary?
Thanks for watching rdx. It's possible that it could work without the sill-seal, but it helps separate the tube from the deep part of the rim to create a sealing contact to make the bead seat easier. In some cases, the contact may be enough without. I hope that this helps.
have you ever done this with cutting the tube inside the rim prior to adding the tire? I assume it would still work....
Hi Mike. I'm trying to picture what you mean by cutting the tube inside the rim. The tube is acting as the rim tape, but the blue foam is pushing it so that it will seal to seat the bead.
ahhh.. I spent most of today trying to install some van helgas on my pugsley non-tubeless rims. Worked a couple of years ago, but the tires were just too loose. Yes, using a compressor. Yes, tried over and over and over. Lots of soap etc. Even placed a tube around the tire to keep it in place during inflation. Finally gave up. I've been running ghetto tubeless since 2018 with jumbo jims and one winter with van helgas - never had this problem before. It's like the van helgas were just too loose. Gave up and put a tube in. Gonna be awful for me if I get a flat at 0 Fahrenheit. oh well.
Sorry for the late response Ginnis. I somehow missed this comment. This method should work for those Van Helgas. The key is to use that foam sill seal as the spacer under the 24" split tube to make the seal to the rim edge. I tried other methods, and none of them made that seal tight enough to seat the bead. I hope that this helps.
@@themostlymikeshow I've run ghetto tubeless for 5 years on my Pugsley with the foam sill spacer. The first time I put the Van Helgas on, it worked. Then for the summer I put Jumbo Jims on (4th time for those). But now the Helgas won't seat. :( Maybe I'll retry with the Jims for summer riding, and then see if the Helgas seat next winter.
I run two Cannondale Fat Caad 1s. Both have the Jumbo Jim's from factory, and they both have always sealed perfectly unless it was something like a hole in the tape to deal with. The Van Helgas were on my ex gf's fat bike, and what I did in this video was the only way that we could to get them to seal. Not sure why your Van Helgas would be giving you issues now. Are you sure that the beads aren't nicked? Also, I had a jumbo Jim that wouldn't seal because years of rock gardens had abraded the sidewalls to the point that air was seeping through, although not real obvious with the soapy water.
What is the purpose of the sill seal “foam strip “ ? Another I saw used camping mattress pad but IDK why
Thanks for watching TK. Not all rims need the sill seal, but many of the non-tubeless ready rims need a little filler to make the beads of the tires contact the tube so that it will sill to make seating the bead easier or even possible. After the bead is seated, it really doesn't do much at all. I hope that this clarifies it for you.
Would putting gorilla tape be enough? @@themostlymikeshow
am I right though if my non-tubeless rims are something of super high quality, nor the hub, it's often just better to just buy tubeless rims and tyres to start with instead of this conversion? Or does ghetto method works better than just a commercially available tubeless setup?
Ghetto way is the ONLY way if you have no time or money for shopping 😉
Otherwise, its just much easier and lighter with proper components.
I agree! Thanks for watching!
It’s possible do it with 24" x 2.4"?? ( can’t find 3”)
Thanks for watching alicvel. It may or may not, depending on how wide your rim is. I think that I put an Amazon link for the 3" wide in the description under this video. I'll check it to make sure. How wide is the rim on your bike?
Ok, I checked the description, and I didn't include the link. Sorry about that. I put it in there now. Here's the link :
amzn.to/3vPIaGh
@@themostlymikeshow Thank´s Mike It´s a Radrover 26" x 4.0"
@@themostlymikeshow THANK´S ! 👍
@@themostlymikeshow Just 2 more questions Mike. How much sealant for each tire? What do you think of MUC-OFF?
Ribbed for your pleasure ;P
Haha! That's just kind of came up while I was filming. Thanks for watching!