Glad this worked out for you! I've done dozens of these conversions with my share of failures along the way. I just did a conversion to a new rim a couple of weeks ago. The rim was not tubeless compatible nor the tire. I use Gorilla tape to cover any holes and spoke holes, but not wide enough to reach the rim. When applying the tape I always hold and stretch tight and finish up about 4 inches past the start point. I then Use Gorilla clear tape, or something comparable, that is wide enough to reach rim to rim. A hole is then made to insert the air valve, and I like to use sealant between the valve and the tape, then tighten the air valve nut. When mounting the tire I paint sealant over the tape on both sides so that there is no resistance when filling with air and the tire sides slide easier to the rim. I wrap a cinching strap around the tire and cinch tight enough where there are a couple of creases and then inflate with compressed air from my tank. You will hear the pops and know it is sealed, then release the strap, fill with sealant into the valve, reinstall the valve pin and inflate to desired air pressure. Maneuver the wheel so you can swoosh the sealant around coating the inside of the tire and rim. All of these steps are important but the compressor or similar is a must! My tire has not lost any air in the two weeks since I did the tubeless conversion.
Track pump puts the butchers straight up..5 shots it's at 20....for a 3.00 tyre. ..same all my tyres ..first fit I put say 12 massive ones to get that pop...that you need...but once they are on .. straight up with my bontrsger track pump..say no to co²...
Hahaha hooo hoooooo...ha .. leaving the strap in ..top thinking about the pull that they have .I recon you could call into action on that. .the mistakes are the way to success unless you are being tutored personally who is doing it daily better like me I had a mechani CV at the store show me ...cleanliness with iso and guerilla tape and get it round twice as far up the sides of the inner rim section as possible ...I was lucky I think being told the method. ...ha .but . having seen him working I've seen those splatters. 😂
@@Christopherogley Hmmm. None of these 3 comments make sense as to a response to my comment. I guess maybe in your attempt to comment to the author you accidentally commented on mine.
Very impressive how you manage to get the gorilla tape on while using thin gloves. Also, I'd line up the PSI rating with the valve. It makes finding the info easier when someone has to air up the tire. Great video!!!!
One of the 'advantages' of using tubeless is that you are able to run lower pressure on the tyres. That is one thing that you may not be able to do with these tyre/rim combos - so kind of defeats [one of] the purposes of going tubeless in the first instance. You could experiment with gradually lowering the pressure...and gently test in order to ensure you don't ship a tyre... I wish you luck.... I have compatible tyre/rim combo from Mavic (UST) and even those do not hold air effortlessly...even when the bead is 100% seated. I occasionally just go out to spin the tyres to make sure the sealant doesn't just pool at the bottom of the tyre/rim. Another tip - once you've added the sealant and inflated the tyre, spread the sealant using a figure 8 shake/spin pattern...and when inflating to top off the pressure...always make sure the valve is at 12 o'clock (and not 6 o'clock) as you'll start to lose sealant through the valve stem first...
This all sounds like hard-earned real-world experience. Thanks for sharing, I will try to incorporate this knowledge. I agree that I don't think I can run lower pressures and have success with my tire/rim combo on the back wheel seeing as it's burping so much sealant. My current theory is that the rim is too narrow (19mm inside) for the tire width (2.25") and a wider rim would help. I can feel the tire deflecting a lot side-to-side over uneven terrain. Despite being the same rim and tire width the front combo still seems solid and I suspect lower pressures would work fine (no burping) although still feel a bit squirmy. It's possible the front/rear discrepancy is due to the added weight on the rear wheel. I'm a rather large human at about 110 kilos (240 lbs) with my gear on which is a bit of work for the tire and rim to contend with.
Great video, I went through all the same issues as you when I first tried tubeless… and my rims were compatible (& tires were expensive as hell). I remember feeling the exact same frustrations as you. I eventually had to give up and pay my local bike shop $30 to get the tires seated. I’m going to try again this year with a new set of rims, your video helps a lot.
Thanks for sharing and glad you enjoyed the video. Having gone through the process I can understand why you would break down and go to your LBS as I hit the frustration point many times. I'm a stubborn DIYer so I would go back to tubes before I allow myself to go that route as I have a strong desire to feel as self-sufficient as possible. It might not always be in my best interest but it's who I am. :)
Leaking sealant is not the main issue running clincher bead tires tubeless. The problem is the bead strength stretching and not blowing off. Higher pressures for less rolling resistances will increase chance of failure.
@@chasingmyfreedom3642 Tubeless by nature have increased rolling resistance and on tubeless rims restrict pressures to less than 40lbs. for most 29er tubeless tires. The bead really isn't that different just more refined and smooth. My set up 29x2.25" CST Rock Hawk wire bead rear and 29x2.40" CST Ouster folded bead front. It's important not to use a compressor to increase pressures to the max. I blew off one of the Ouster's on the rear. Ruined the bead and stretched the tire. Rims are Ryde Trace 25's drilled to use schrader valves
I recently went tubeless and at first tried using the same HDX sprayer as Skills w Phil but it just wasn't good enough. Bit the bullet and bought an Airshot inflator that works better as it seated the tire on the first try. I have 29 inch tires so I went with 4oz of Slime but the tire deflated 10 psi overnight. I then added another ounce of Slime and went for a ride right away. That did the trick as it holds air for days before losing a few psi. It still isn't perfect but I attribute that to my poor tape job haha. One thing to note is that Slime is for inner tubes and probably not the best for tubeless.
The AIRSHOTS work really really well...Much better velocity, you get just about all the pressure in a sec or two blast vs that chemical sprayer slowly bleeding it out over 10 or so secs
You can also just put sealant into the tube. You can still remove the presta valve and put sealant in with a syringe. It's really easy and clean. The sealant just falls into the presta stem. This does work. I've been doing it for a while with no problems. I fixed my nephew's flat tire by simply putting sealant in the tube and airing it up. It hasnt been flat since.
Tip I have used was to run tape around the centre of the hole outside of the tire pulling it tight which squashed the centre of the tyre down and pushed tire onto either side of the rim. Then pump like hell! Hope this helps 👌🏼
While the chemical sprayer is cheap at 25 or so bucks, if you spent a bit more on an AIRSHOT or something similar from Amazon you would have got those tires on that rim in only a few mins. I know there is this idea of why spend the money on these expensive tools, but they really save you a ton of time. How much is your time and enegry worth? The chemical sprayer just doesn't have the velocity needed. The Airshot type products release all the stored air of 120psi in a matter of a sec, maybe two, unlike the chemical sprayer that slowly bleeds it out over 10 or so secs....
Although I have yet to use one, I believe a pump like you describe that can release more highly compressed air rapidly would work very well. Seeing as I've been very happy with this tubeless setup and plan to stay tubeless in the future I'll consider such a pump next time I do this despite the cost.
The benefits are far beyond not getting punctures. I could do 1 in 100 seconds prob I. my youth so it's how they ride. ..less pressure needed .. beyond punctures
I *literally* just ordered those Presta valves for my in-progress tubeless setup. I got two new Sta-Tru rims, which don't specifically mention "tubeless ready," so I'm a little nervous. Going with Vittoria Mezcals, so I know the tires will be good. I'm just worried about the rims and the possible issues you had.
My rims are not tubeless compatible (andra 30) however, using tubeless tires (AMERICAN CLASSIC Kimberlite) worked fine. The issue is that the tire does not stay on the hooks if deflated, I need a compressor to inflate so, I need to carry a tube ...just in case any tire losses all the air.
Hi, gorilla tape is like duct tape but thicker and I believe it's stronger. Here's some links that will hopefully help: www.gorillatough.com/product/black-gorilla-tape/ www.farnell.com/datasheets/1684009.pdf Good luck!
I'm still a little fuzzy on the concept. Tubeless gives better reliability? Tubeless saves weight? Just want to be clear. Nice video though and some good patience displayed. I probably would have done more throwing and swearing with that rear. Cheers.
I'm doubtful tubeless saves weight. The sealant, valve, and rim tape probably adds up to roughly the same amount as the tube. I think the biggest advantage of tubeless is the sealant filling in and sealing small punctures that otherwise would have been a slow to medium leak in a tube and required repair. With tubeless, in most cases they will stop leaking before you even realize there was a small puncture. Having said that, if you get a larger leak that the sealant can't seal, then you have a big mess to deal with on the trail to swap a tube in with sealant getting all over the place. In my case all these scenarios are theoretical as I haven't had any known leak from my tubeless setup. All the headache was in initial setup and then after that it's been smooth sailing, and fully inflated tires. Guess I'm lucky so far.
I've seriously thought about going tubeless for a couple of reasons. Mainly because I get flats around the valve stem. Probably from the edge of the hole for the valve. 1) Tubes these days seem about as thin as a cheap condom. I have had tubes blow out on inflation. 2) Valve hole in rim is oversize imo 3) Tubes shift on rim. To seal the the rims l would think about using Locktite 505 or 515. Used to form gaskets on industrial machinery. One is rigid in that it cures hard. The other stays flexible.
I too have had issues in the past with tires and tubes rotating on the rim and causing tube tearing near the stem. This tubeless setup has not moved at all since it was installed. It has carried me on some decent bikepacking adventures with no problems. Despite the difficulty I had with initial setup, I've been happy with the result even since.
You made your own problems in truth by attempting to do everything with tools that were "not quite correct" for the job. Your approach reminded me of trying to undo a bolt with the wrong socket. Everything is a challenge and what should be simple is slow and painful. A compressor would make a world of difference at the very least and the correct wheels as well. You did it all on a budget, so the pain of lost time and effort came with that. The correct items would conclude that task in 30 mins. I converted two wheels for example in under half an hour a few days ago.
As a perfectionist, I would be annoyed / slightly bothered by the mix of old and new tire design, and so I think that was a poor customer service decision to ship 2 different designs to the same customer. But, yeah, getting delayed just to make them the same would also be a concern. As far as going tubeless, I think it would be overkill and not worth the effort and expense for the light type of riding I do.
For rear tire, for Shredder I think the issue you had was simply screwing the valve into the rim despite the rubber being on rim part, is not enough, you should have sealed it off with rubber and a nut! That is what I would do!
All my tubeless set ups including a set of the 3.00 spez butchers.. very heavy very grippy .longest lasting tyre f an nduro haibike abuse and still have the dynamic equivalent grip as the top end soft compounds...its so heavly built and designed ..ithat pair of butchers have been on my haibike yam nduro 7..for a year ......yeah .a year ..they need changing but hey ..id havd burnt through hundreds f the Sam performance elsewhere..ALL MY TUBLESS WERE BUILT THIS WAY..WORK CAREFULLY AND THEY WILL PROBABLY LAST LONGER THAN USUAL...PLUS ONCE 1 CYCLE OF GOO HAS RUN THROUGH EM...BUT... .... ALWAYS USE GUERILLA TAPE ...YEAH ..WE ALL DO IT AND WE ALL USE IT.... GORILLA GREEN
Yeah, I hear you. Floor pumps are relatively cheap however I'm not convinced it would have helped me much for this job. I needed to get air into the tire FAST to make the bead seat. The really requires some kind of pressurized vessel. A floor pump with a pressurized chamber like the Topeak JoeBooster would probably work great but are in the hundreds of dollars. That's similar cost to a cheap compressor. I really wanted to see how feasible it is to go tubeless on a budget, especially if you don't have fully compatible equipment.
@@chasingmyfreedom3642 Hit garage and estate sales for a compressor. Or pick up a compressed air tank you can fill either eith a pump or at a gas station.
You could have just paid a mechanic or a friend 23usd (same price as pressure.) To do the work for you but regardless still good content. Thou i watch the entire video.
Haha - apparently not because I have since purchased an air compressor for much easier tubeless setup. I just wanted to know if it could be done the hard way. :)
Maybe the reason to why it was so hard may be that the tire isnt hookless compatible. I just did this with hookless rims and it was alot easier than this maybe because i had hookless compatible tires.
When I made this video I had never heard of hooked and hookless rims and to date I have not researched if there are tires that may have worked better with my current rims. What tires did you use for your installation?
He had hooked rims. Pretty much all rims that are not tubeless compatible (and his were not) are hooked. In fact most rims are hooked and only a select few tubeless rims are hookless
I was thinking the same thing but vehicles use Schrader valves and he is using a presta valve so the gas station /petrol station pump would not work unless you have an adaptor
if you're going to switch to tubeless without proper rims at least spend some money on the proper equipment. You can't expect to cheap out on everything this is the main take away form this video
Yet despite the frustration to get it to work, this tubeless setup still serves me well today. It's been rock solid. When these tires wear out and I do it again, I'll consider getting an Airshot-style floor pump that can release air more quickly into the tire.
![แฉกลโกงงานวัด 2024 [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.106 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/taC5dpP3HXA/mqdefault.jpg)
Glad this worked out for you! I've done dozens of these conversions with my share of failures along the way. I just did a conversion to a new rim a couple of weeks ago. The rim was not tubeless compatible nor the tire. I use Gorilla tape to cover any holes and spoke holes, but not wide enough to reach the rim. When applying the tape I always hold and stretch tight and finish up about 4 inches past the start point. I then Use Gorilla clear tape, or something comparable, that is wide enough to reach rim to rim. A hole is then made to insert the air valve, and I like to use sealant between the valve and the tape, then tighten the air valve nut. When mounting the tire I paint sealant over the tape on both sides so that there is no resistance when filling with air and the tire sides slide easier to the rim. I wrap a cinching strap around the tire and cinch tight enough where there are a couple of creases and then inflate with compressed air from my tank. You will hear the pops and know it is sealed, then release the strap, fill with sealant into the valve, reinstall the valve pin and inflate to desired air pressure. Maneuver the wheel so you can swoosh the sealant around coating the inside of the tire and rim. All of these steps are important but the compressor or similar is a must! My tire has not lost any air in the two weeks since I did the tubeless conversion.
Track pump puts the butchers straight up..5 shots it's at 20....for a 3.00 tyre. ..same all my tyres ..first fit I put say 12 massive ones to get that pop...that you need...but once they are on .. straight up with my bontrsger track pump..say no to co²...
Hahaha hooo hoooooo...ha .. leaving the strap in ..top thinking about the pull that they have .I recon you could call into action on that. .the mistakes are the way to success unless you are being tutored personally who is doing it daily better like me I had a mechani CV at the store show me ...cleanliness with iso and guerilla tape and get it round twice as far up the sides of the inner rim section as possible ...I was lucky I think being told the method. ...ha .but . having seen him working I've seen those splatters. 😂
I find that they clean up well as regards old sealant...that I have used at least...❤
@@Christopherogley Hmmm. None of these 3 comments make sense as to a response to my comment. I guess maybe in your attempt to comment to the author you accidentally commented on mine.
Very impressive how you manage to get the gorilla tape on while using thin gloves. Also, I'd line up the PSI rating with the valve. It makes finding the info easier when someone has to air up the tire. Great video!!!!
Thanks and I was too lazy to take the gloves off but it was a bit challenging...
I did tubeless with none tubeless rim and tyres with the cut inner tube method. Worked fine.
Strongly agree with your comments about benefits vs. hassle.
One of the 'advantages' of using tubeless is that you are able to run lower pressure on the tyres.
That is one thing that you may not be able to do with these tyre/rim combos - so kind of defeats [one of] the purposes of going tubeless in the first instance.
You could experiment with gradually lowering the pressure...and gently test in order to ensure you don't ship a tyre...
I wish you luck....
I have compatible tyre/rim combo from Mavic (UST) and even those do not hold air effortlessly...even when the bead is 100% seated.
I occasionally just go out to spin the tyres to make sure the sealant doesn't just pool at the bottom of the tyre/rim.
Another tip - once you've added the sealant and inflated the tyre, spread the sealant using a figure 8 shake/spin pattern...and when inflating to top off the pressure...always make sure the valve is at 12 o'clock (and not 6 o'clock) as you'll start to lose sealant through the valve stem first...
This all sounds like hard-earned real-world experience. Thanks for sharing, I will try to incorporate this knowledge. I agree that I don't think I can run lower pressures and have success with my tire/rim combo on the back wheel seeing as it's burping so much sealant. My current theory is that the rim is too narrow (19mm inside) for the tire width (2.25") and a wider rim would help. I can feel the tire deflecting a lot side-to-side over uneven terrain.
Despite being the same rim and tire width the front combo still seems solid and I suspect lower pressures would work fine (no burping) although still feel a bit squirmy.
It's possible the front/rear discrepancy is due to the added weight on the rear wheel. I'm a rather large human at about 110 kilos (240 lbs) with my gear on which is a bit of work for the tire and rim to contend with.
Great video, I went through all the same issues as you when I first tried tubeless… and my rims were compatible (& tires were expensive as hell). I remember feeling the exact same frustrations as you. I eventually had to give up and pay my local bike shop $30 to get the tires seated.
I’m going to try again this year with a new set of rims, your video helps a lot.
Thanks for sharing and glad you enjoyed the video. Having gone through the process I can understand why you would break down and go to your LBS as I hit the frustration point many times. I'm a stubborn DIYer so I would go back to tubes before I allow myself to go that route as I have a strong desire to feel as self-sufficient as possible. It might not always be in my best interest but it's who I am. :)
Leaking sealant is not the main issue running clincher bead tires tubeless. The problem is the bead strength stretching and not blowing off. Higher pressures for less rolling resistances will increase chance of failure.
Despite the difficulty getting it set up this tubeless combo has held up well over time including a bikepacking trip. No complaints so far.
@@chasingmyfreedom3642 Tubeless by nature have increased rolling resistance and on tubeless rims restrict pressures to less than 40lbs. for most 29er tubeless tires. The bead really isn't that different just more refined and smooth. My set up 29x2.25" CST Rock Hawk wire bead rear and 29x2.40" CST Ouster folded bead front. It's important not to use a compressor to increase pressures to the max. I blew off one of the Ouster's on the rear. Ruined the bead and stretched the tire. Rims are Ryde Trace 25's drilled to use schrader valves
I recently went tubeless and at first tried using the same HDX sprayer as Skills w Phil but it just wasn't good enough. Bit the bullet and bought an Airshot inflator that works better as it seated the tire on the first try. I have 29 inch tires so I went with 4oz of Slime but the tire deflated 10 psi overnight. I then added another ounce of Slime and went for a ride right away. That did the trick as it holds air for days before losing a few psi. It still isn't perfect but I attribute that to my poor tape job haha. One thing to note is that Slime is for inner tubes and probably not the best for tubeless.
The AIRSHOTS work really really well...Much better velocity, you get just about all the pressure in a sec or two blast vs that chemical sprayer slowly bleeding it out over 10 or so secs
Use more wraps of tape , about three should be sufficient.
Thank you for documenting this.
You can also just put sealant into the tube. You can still remove the presta valve and put sealant in with a syringe. It's really easy and clean. The sealant just falls into the presta stem. This does work. I've been doing it for a while with no problems. I fixed my nephew's flat tire by simply putting sealant in the tube and airing it up. It hasnt been flat since.
Thanks for adding this additional insight. Another option to consider.
Also try putting an o ring around the valve.
Tip I have used was to run tape around the centre of the hole outside of the tire pulling it tight which squashed the centre of the tyre down and pushed tire onto either side of the rim. Then pump like hell! Hope this helps 👌🏼
While the chemical sprayer is cheap at 25 or so bucks, if you spent a bit more on an AIRSHOT or something similar from Amazon you would have got those tires on that rim in only a few mins. I know there is this idea of why spend the money on these expensive tools, but they really save you a ton of time. How much is your time and enegry worth? The chemical sprayer just doesn't have the velocity needed. The Airshot type products release all the stored air of 120psi in a matter of a sec, maybe two, unlike the chemical sprayer that slowly bleeds it out over 10 or so secs....
Although I have yet to use one, I believe a pump like you describe that can release more highly compressed air rapidly would work very well. Seeing as I've been very happy with this tubeless setup and plan to stay tubeless in the future I'll consider such a pump next time I do this despite the cost.
@@chasingmyfreedom3642 it works really well...
I'd strap the tire
The benefits are far beyond not getting punctures. I could do 1 in 100 seconds prob I. my youth so it's how they ride. ..less pressure needed .. beyond punctures
Or you could buy an actual air compressor…
I want to ask you that if there was any space between the rim and tire before it worked
I *literally* just ordered those Presta valves for my in-progress tubeless setup. I got two new Sta-Tru rims, which don't specifically mention "tubeless ready," so I'm a little nervous. Going with Vittoria Mezcals, so I know the tires will be good. I'm just worried about the rims and the possible issues you had.
Good luck with your conversion. Hope it works!
@@chasingmyfreedom3642 Thank you!
My rims are not tubeless compatible (andra 30) however, using tubeless tires (AMERICAN CLASSIC Kimberlite) worked fine. The issue is that the tire does not stay on the hooks if deflated, I need a compressor to inflate so, I need to carry a tube ...just in case any tire losses all the air.
Hi I'm from Singapore, I can't find gorilla tape, can you include the product description 😊
Hi, gorilla tape is like duct tape but thicker and I believe it's stronger. Here's some links that will hopefully help:
www.gorillatough.com/product/black-gorilla-tape/
www.farnell.com/datasheets/1684009.pdf
Good luck!
Have you seen how they inflate truck tires quickly without pump or compressor by just using gasoline and fire?
Bontrager rim strip?
Closely examining the rim shape at 6:01 and can hardly call that rim non-tubeless.
I'm still a little fuzzy on the concept. Tubeless gives better reliability? Tubeless saves weight? Just want to be clear. Nice video though and some good patience displayed. I probably would have done more throwing and swearing with that rear. Cheers.
I'm doubtful tubeless saves weight. The sealant, valve, and rim tape probably adds up to roughly the same amount as the tube. I think the biggest advantage of tubeless is the sealant filling in and sealing small punctures that otherwise would have been a slow to medium leak in a tube and required repair. With tubeless, in most cases they will stop leaking before you even realize there was a small puncture. Having said that, if you get a larger leak that the sealant can't seal, then you have a big mess to deal with on the trail to swap a tube in with sealant getting all over the place. In my case all these scenarios are theoretical as I haven't had any known leak from my tubeless setup. All the headache was in initial setup and then after that it's been smooth sailing, and fully inflated tires. Guess I'm lucky so far.
I've seriously thought about going tubeless for a couple of reasons. Mainly because I get flats around the valve stem. Probably from the edge of the hole for the valve.
1) Tubes these days seem about as thin as a cheap condom. I have had tubes blow out on inflation.
2) Valve hole in rim is oversize imo
3) Tubes shift on rim.
To seal the the rims l would think about using Locktite 505 or 515. Used to form gaskets on industrial machinery. One is rigid in that it cures hard. The other stays flexible.
I too have had issues in the past with tires and tubes rotating on the rim and causing tube tearing near the stem. This tubeless setup has not moved at all since it was installed. It has carried me on some decent bikepacking adventures with no problems. Despite the difficulty I had with initial setup, I've been happy with the result even since.
Can I use a tubeless tyre on a non-tubeless rim and just use an inner tube with it?
Yes,you can
I like the Kashmir cover
Isn't it fantastic? You can hear more of it here: th-cam.com/video/04nTmj3Z8pI/w-d-xo.html. What a talent!
You made your own problems in truth by attempting to do everything with tools that were "not quite correct" for the job.
Your approach reminded me of trying to undo a bolt with the wrong socket. Everything is a challenge and what should be simple is slow and painful.
A compressor would make a world of difference at the very least and the correct wheels as well. You did it all on a budget, so the pain of lost time and effort came with that. The correct items would conclude that task in 30 mins. I converted two wheels for example in under half an hour a few days ago.
Thanks for the comment and yes, you're correct. It was in part the point of the video.
As a perfectionist, I would be annoyed / slightly bothered by the mix of old and new tire design, and so I think that was a poor customer service decision to ship 2 different designs to the same customer. But, yeah, getting delayed just to make them the same would also be a concern. As far as going tubeless, I think it would be overkill and not worth the effort and expense for the light type of riding I do.
For rear tire, for Shredder I think the issue you had was simply screwing the valve into the rim despite the rubber being on rim part, is not enough, you should have sealed it off with rubber and a nut! That is what I would do!
you need too add sealant to set it with air
You don't. You need sealant to conclude the task but setting the bead doesn't require sealant at stage 1.
I think if you go to a petrol station and get it using the air pump you can save a lot of hassle. ✌🏾
Alcohol around the rim and light it on fire might set the bead
All my tubeless set ups including a set of the 3.00 spez butchers.. very heavy very grippy .longest lasting tyre f an nduro haibike abuse and still have the dynamic equivalent grip as the top end soft compounds...its so heavly built and designed ..ithat pair of butchers have been on my haibike yam nduro 7..for a year ......yeah .a year ..they need changing but hey ..id havd burnt through hundreds f the Sam performance elsewhere..ALL MY TUBLESS WERE BUILT THIS WAY..WORK CAREFULLY AND THEY WILL PROBABLY LAST LONGER THAN USUAL...PLUS ONCE 1 CYCLE OF GOO HAS RUN THROUGH EM...BUT...
.... ALWAYS USE GUERILLA TAPE ...YEAH ..WE ALL DO IT AND WE ALL USE IT.... GORILLA GREEN
You really need to invest in a floor pump 👍🏾
Yeah, I hear you. Floor pumps are relatively cheap however I'm not convinced it would have helped me much for this job. I needed to get air into the tire FAST to make the bead seat. The really requires some kind of pressurized vessel. A floor pump with a pressurized chamber like the Topeak JoeBooster would probably work great but are in the hundreds of dollars. That's similar cost to a cheap compressor. I really wanted to see how feasible it is to go tubeless on a budget, especially if you don't have fully compatible equipment.
@@chasingmyfreedom3642
Hit garage and estate sales for a compressor. Or pick up a compressed air tank you can fill either eith a pump or at a gas station.
You could have just paid a mechanic or a friend 23usd (same price as pressure.) To do the work for you but regardless still good content. Thou i watch the entire video.
You have infinite patience
Haha - apparently not because I have since purchased an air compressor for much easier tubeless setup. I just wanted to know if it could be done the hard way. :)
Maybe the reason to why it was so hard may be that the tire isnt hookless compatible. I just did this with hookless rims and it was alot easier than this maybe because i had hookless compatible tires.
When I made this video I had never heard of hooked and hookless rims and to date I have not researched if there are tires that may have worked better with my current rims. What tires did you use for your installation?
@@chasingmyfreedom3642 maxxis dhf. Worked very well on both front and rear.
He had hooked rims. Pretty much all rims that are not tubeless compatible (and his were not) are hooked. In fact most rims are hooked and only a select few tubeless rims are hookless
Personally I would have gotten an air pig, go to my mechanic have him fill it up, enough air for car tires, and bike tires.
Next time use a pump compresor ;)
Should have just stopped by the gas station air pump while you were out.
I was thinking the same thing but vehicles use Schrader valves and he is using a presta valve so the gas station /petrol station pump would not work unless you have an adaptor
Put the brand new tires out in the hot sun to make it pliable.
if you're going to switch to tubeless without proper rims at least spend some money on the proper equipment. You can't expect to cheap out on everything this is the main take away form this video
Yet despite the frustration to get it to work, this tubeless setup still serves me well today. It's been rock solid.
When these tires wear out and I do it again, I'll consider getting an Airshot-style floor pump that can release air more quickly into the tire.
Take that thing to the gas station. F those hand pumps.
Have you ever repaired a tubeless wheel in the forest? If so, you'll never try tubeless tyres again...
I have run both tube and tubeless and I have to agree with you. The few advantages tubeless provides is no longer worth the trouble to me.
Use more tape
I’ll make this comment and wash your tire in hot water. I’m used to having tubeless rimes when I do the set up.
Not worth to tried, get the proper rim to go instead of wasting time....😅
Been riding this tubeless setup for almost a year now and it still works great. Hard to set up but very worth it in hindsight.