This was suppose to be the New-frame-day video, but have been battling with customs and finally won, so while it is a bit late, it will land this week, and I will try and make and release that video a bit faster the the current rate of videos. Until then, lets tape some wheels!
@Click Bait I've seen someone brushing the beads with a little of the same sealant you use in the tyre, don't know if it actually works, but it has sense that it might help
Another tip: instead of poking a hole where the valve stem goes, try heating the tip of a steel wire or something, maybe an old spoke perhaps, untill it is red hot and then poke the hole. This way there is almost no chance of tearing the tape once you push the valve stem through 👌🏾
Good tip! A spoke would work just fine, but I took an old screwdriver and ground it down to a point on a bench grinder. It's one of my favorite tools for bike work/loads of other odd jobs. You can certainly buy something like this, but I've inherited tools from my great grandfather and grandfather, so had a silly amount o flat head screwdrivers, so just chose one and ground it to a point.
One tip i found useful is if you struggle to get the tire to hold the air on initial pumping, try hanging the rim on something so that its off the ground and try pumping it up. I found that when on the ground the weight of the rim crushes the deflated tire and have greater chance of leaks. Cheers!
One thing you missed is always tape in the direction of travel at the top of the rim when installed. ive had times when the tire shifted on the rim under heavy braking and pick the tape up and roll it off.
Yes, yes, yes! You not only convey important info but also do it in a hilarious manner 🤣. Love the content and the humor. I read a Rene Herse (Compass) blog that said to never use a compressor because if the tires don't seat with a regular pump they are too loose and may come off. They recommended adding a layer of tape till a regular pump seats the tire. Has made life much easier/safer and I love tubeless.
That's not necessarily true, as the tire bead simply hasn't been properly seated and may very well be a tight fit once it makes it over the bead lip. Adding more layers of tape may aid seating and inflation with a track pump, but it in no way raises the chances of the tire staying on the rim once inflated to riding pressure. More layers of tape also has its downsides, including the tape deforming after tire removal since the tape adhesive doesn't work very well on its own backing, which is, of course, by design. Getting if off the roll in the first place would be a nightmare otherwise. A variety of factors come into play that determine how stable a tubeless tire setup is, and the ones I've found to make a huge difference are whether the rim is hookless or not, with hookless rims being far more likely to allow a tire to blow off the rim for fairly obvious reasons, and the robustness of the casing, which determines, of course, how stretchy and pliable the overall tire is. I found out the hard way when I ironically had a pair of Compass tires blow off their (hookless) rims despite being inflated to well under the maximum PSI indicated on the sidewall, which was disappointing but somewhat understandable given that they're among the most supple (i.e. stretchy) on the market. In the end, the only safe way to run them was with tubes.
A tubeless convert here! Three years now and zero punctures! For me, this is unprecedented. Prior to this, I'd always ridden "speedy" tyres, e.g. Michelin Pro4 SC, Michelin Power, Panaracer Race A Evo, etc. (but never TT tyres though), and I always had to fix punctures 2-5 times per year. Zero fixes in 3 years is just… blessing from the heaven. Since switching to tubeless, I've seen quite a few times some hardened slimy residue on my tyres after a ride. Must have been a puncture that I didn't even realise. All hail tubeless tyres! P.S. I used to bodge 3M tapes (#2400 no residue version) as tubeless tapes too. While they work perfectly fine like yours, they always came off if I remove the tyres. Since setting up tubeless is already a hassle as is, compressor and all, I didn't want to redo the tape every time. Because of that, I'm now using Schwalbe tubeless tape. While it is the most expensive strip of adhesive I've ever bought, it sure does its job superbly without peeling/sliding off when tyres are removed. Use quality stuff, tape only once, ride forever.
I'm on my 2nd season on road tubeless, with zero problems. I've had one puncture that didn't seal properly, but that was on an old worn tyre with sealant that had almost completely dried out. I also use Corsa graphene 2.0 by recommendations from my wheel builder. Fast and durable.
I would also say : read the instructions from the tyres manufacturer ! For example : in order to avoid weeping/leaky sidewalls, WTB strongly suggest to brush the inside of the tyre with sealant before mounting the tyres and it actually works like a charm !
I'll have to try that if I ever put my WTBs back on a rim. I bought a set this year and they leaked out the sidewall like a sieve. I had to add sealant 3 times before they would hold. I was so frustrated with them I took them off and hung them up in the garage for the time being.
@@teddgram Ditto. But for me, after finally getting them on, I soon took them and sold them. They were v.disappointing. Far too leaky and fragile. Went back to some my reliable Hutchinson Fusion 5s.
While I'm sure this works at least if you use Orange Seal, I would argue that weeping sidewalls is a Bad Tire(tm). It's just insane to not make a tubeless tire reasonably air tight. Why don't they add the required latex layer in the factory? I think we've already had enough of bad tubeless products that makes tubeless a mess, and I hope weeping sidewalls is soon a thing of the past.
Great tips! Especially about adding a second layer of tape, the horizontal “settling” trick, checking the valve cores, and focusing on the bead staying set. Great video as always.
Fun fact: When I bought my new mountainbike, I rode around two weeks without any sealant in the tires, not loosing any air. Now I know you have to put the sealant in yourself :D
Thank you for this - a great overview with some excellent points. Especially the one about the tyre remaining on the rim when deflated - a good way a confirming a safer tyre/combo. My wheels came fitted with tape, so I've just stuck to the same width. Although unlike yours, its 2mm smaller that the internal rim width! One other thing, check your wheel spec, and use a tyre that is wide enough! Most wheels specify a minimum, of say 25 mm. Some like Token G33, recommend a 30mm minimum tyre, since they have a internal width of +25mm. Disregard this at your peril.
Tiny drop of oil on the thread of the valve core too, stops the sealant making it hard to turn, no problem at home with all the tools, but a faff when out.
AND.. imho.. just get a tubeless pump with canister.. WHY F around?? .. boom and your tire is seated.. they are little more expensive, but totally worth it.. going to use for years.. just make your life easier!
It will eventually dry out no matter on or off season. But you're correct, is you leaven them unused a few months it will definitely be time for top-up once it time to ride again.
That was an excellent tutorial. I haven't made the plunge yet because I find tubes are working great for me and I'm not a weight weeny. Never heard of bead wax before and I could have used it in the past for tight clinchers.
I used that DT Swiss tape a few years ago because it was the only tape my LBS had at the time. I like it a lot better than the cheap blue tape by far. I've had the blue tape fail (came undone, leaked, etc) a few times. It is more expensive, but as the saying goes "cry once".
Hahaha 😂, I just finished swapping tubeless tires and unfortunately had to replace rim tape on front rim. I'd say the worse part is the smell 🤢. I'm no rocking Panaracer GK + tan sidewall
Hej Tobias, fin video. Vilket beadwax är det du använder. Kör numer med tubolight inserts efter mosad ENVE fälg incidenten :) Och med inserts är nästa alla däck en rejäl utmaning att få på så tänkte testa bead wax tillsammans med min fina däcktång. mvh Gerry
Really great trip through the tubeless install process. Thank you for sharing your time tested ways to get the job done. And thank you for the humor that comes with all your videos!
A handy trick I learnt recently was to use a tyre lever to pop the bead into place (just on one side) by the valve and this helps a lot with getting that initial inflation going. Only needs to be a few cm's either side of the valve :)
Washing my bike after my last duathlon, I saw the sealant on my seat tube. I found the sealed puncture on the rear. I run corsa speeds, I love that you can run a ridiculously thin tire and have that puncture protection. I’m a fan of the silica tape, others didn’t stick that well for me. Plus I found it to weigh 1g less, win. I am also using finish line sealant (no dried out residue). But you need a lot more so more weight, loss.
so happy to hear, 1) dorks can be improved in the tubeless area, 2) material has been improved overall, 3) tape and the bed/tyre interface is paramount, making me ❤️ my 1300g 45mm Farsports Feder disc non-holed-rim-bed wheels even more (0 punctures but only 4months of use)
My latest carbon wheel set 2021 Roval CLX rapid are no longer tubeless compatible. Specialized/Roval seem to be moving away from it on its lighter weight road wheels. Let me tell you its been a pleasure to not deal with tubeless.
I'm not a weight weenie, so love my 5000TL's. Only one flat that wouldn't seal in 10,000+ miles of riding them, great and predictable grip, and long life. First I'm hearing of a "5000TR", and I'm intrigued, though "race" components usually mean you compromise in other areas like life or puncture resistance. I guess we will see!
Great tip on bead wax - cheers. I'd given up trying get my old G-Ones to re-seat straight on a new set of wheels, but gave some bead wax a try and they seated first time.
With new tape, I like to first mount the tire with a tube and let that sit overnight at pressure to get the tape seated and sealed really well on the rim before going tubeless
Have you also tried the Orange Seal Endurance yet? Bought it because they recommend it for road tires and the regular stuff for mtb. But now i see you using the regular stuff for roadies ;)
Nope, only used regular orange. From what I've read, Endurance last longer but doesn’t seal as good. No idea if that true or not, but I have no complaint with the regular orange seal.
@@ridesofjapan how often do you refresh regular orange? I've just started using it this season, and to me it seems to stay fresh much longer than advertised (so I see no reason to use endurance), but I suppose it depends on a lot of factors, climate etc. My bike has been standing in a cool garage for way too much time this season, that may have helped...
I use tubeless since the early 2000 on my MTB 100% for it on a higher volume tire but on a 25-28c tire it's just shit in every imaginable way. Heavy, sealant want handle the pressure, impossible if you want to switch the front tire to the rear. I currently use pirellis and tubolitos 9000km in no issues.
Great video!! I've been doing tubeless myself for the past year or two, and while there were plenty of really quick "tubeless how-to" videos out there, there aren't a ton of videos out there that address the subtleties of road tubeless like you did in this one - especially for road tubeless. And I really like the bit addressing how tires can unseat when deflated - I searched far and wide for an answer to that problem (even commented on one of your earlier videos). You're the first person I've seen to address that concern and I think that's really valuable. :)
just this weekend transformed my trekking bike to tubeless (😁bought all the beginners' stuff including a small compressor (i live in a small appartement so it's good the compressor always just runs 30 seconds and lasts then for about 4 times filling the tyre)). and it feels like it hovers over the roads. i now see i made a mistake with the tape. i bought schwalbe tape but 21mm (have a 22mm bed). but with two layers it worked.
I only use my bike to go to the store mostly, but I live in FL where we have tons of sand-spurs everywhere which managed to give me regular flats. Once I went tubeless that completely stopped. I also am using Orange seal. The one time I had a puncture by something besides a sand-spur (a screw) it plugged the hole once I took it out after just one revolution. Sprayed me in the face the first time but small price to pay for success. I do not have tubeless rims and using Maxxis Rambler tires 700c x 42. I have to use a 1" tie-down strap wrapped around the whole tire with the spring clamp thing to compress the tire enough for the bead to touch both sides all the way around. To clean off old "Orange" sealer IDK about others, but lacquer thinner and a copper scrub pad makes it fall apart pretty good.
In my pre-tubeless cheap weight weenie era, I would use 3M’s fiberglass reinforced strapping tape as a rim strip which worked quite well but was very very thin…not an issue as I was using inner tubes sometimes latex. It always worked. But here in these modern times experiencing that tubeless tapes generally deflect into the spoke holes of a rim w a mounted under pressure I am thinking once again of applying a first layer of that strapping tape prior to actually putting on one layer maybe two of the 8898 that you’ve recommended, thoughts considerations? Have you ever done this before? maybe you’re doing it now? Or never will! Thanks for all the fun
In my shop I (personally) will often let the tape ride up the bead a little too, so even wider. The main problem is cleaning the rim, as I have not found any cleaner that works well... Also I press down on the valve within the rim with my thumb or a tyre lever, to compress the rubber when I tighten the valve nut, this also helps removing the valve. I have now been running Vittoria Corsa on Velocity A23 on my singlespeed Ciocc commuter for 8 months in thorn infested Arizona with zero punctures. My only issue is that I don't think all sealants are good for road pressures: Stan's does seem to just blow through holes at higher pressure. I love tubeless. I hate the mess, but it is worth the lack of punctures and the lovely functionality at pressures even as low as 40psi (when I forget to inflate, and yes I weigh around 70kg).
Tjena! My next bike will be tubeless. Want to try it and have the experience. Casual rider so I am choosing "heavier" and more puncture proof tires to avoid punctures. I think I have had 1 puncture that last 3 years *knock on wood*. Thank you for all the awesome tricks to get the best experience with tubeless.
Use the ENVE valve nuts which allow air to escape from the rim through the valve hole if your tape is compromised. I have exploded expensive carbon rims because the inner tape was compromised and the air went into the rim and expanded the rim until failure. Not a good lesson to learn the hard way! The ENVE nuts will not allow your rims to “inflate” so worth doing in my estimation. They call it the “pressure relief valve stem nut” and I have no financial or other interest in pushing ENVE products.
Nice video. Yep, I still hate tubeless. Did 100 miles in almost 100F / 37C yesterday. Mile 90 got a slice that drained enough air fast enough to shoot sealant all over me and bead came off (even though the bead previously had been secured as you demonstrate in the video). So I had the pleasure of muscling a tube into this tubeless setup which is one of the messiest propositions I can think of. Someone may say, well that is a one-off situation and that the benefits outweigh the negatives. And obviously for some people this is the case. I have a real issue with any type mechanical failure on a bike the is reasonably likely to occur that I can't fix quickly. Tubed setups get more flats for sure, but they take 5 minutes to fix. Tubeless are less frequent but the resolution is highly variable and depends on the rim/tire combo (I can barely get this particular tubeless tire on the rim due to the tight tolerances). I just wanted to offer the alternate view 🤣, rant over.
Your scenario is why I didn't buy a tubeless wheel set so far. I have Schwalbe Marathons on my road bike. I know, slow and heavy, but the only puncture I had so far was a cut in the sidewall that at least would have been a challenge for the sealant.
Fair point. It does indeed come down to a good tyre/wheel combo. When it's right, you'll thank the preacher for showing you the promised land - but when it's wrong, oh boy, you'll curse the f#cker who lying to you!!
@@cjohnson3836 Afaik there are self adhesive patches. I never tried them. But it would take me much longer than 5 minutes to repair a flat tire because I'm not used to it 😉
@@cjohnson3836 I bring two tubes, swap the tube, and later I patch the offending tube at home at my liesure (if ever). My goal is to ride and reduce time wrenching on the side of the road. I contest it takes 5 minutes.
on ENVE AR wheels you can't really stretch tape like you do in video. You have to push tape in channel first.. And then leave tube in for night or two..
The tape dose the “stretch” at all, it’s more just about keeping tension on the tape as I lay it down (in the center) But you are correct, depending on rims, there might be better ways to do the job. Leaving a tube in is definitely a good idea 👌
@@ridesofjapan ENVE AR wheels are hookless and they have made that channel very deep so therefore it is super difficult to apply the tape.. Also their(ENVE) tape is not super stretchy but is required to be used otherwise they can void warranty.. Improper Installation or Setup - Not covered by Lifetime Incident Protection (Examples: using non-ENVE tubeless tape, valve-stems or lock-rings, over-inflating a rim, failure to install Protective Rim Strip on M7 or M9 Series wheels) It's just an info fact from my experience..Great video
When you said "If you are happy with your clinchers..." I heard "If you are happy with your clean shirts" and I thought that was also a valid argument with spraying sealant.
I just switched back to tubes after a couple of months with a tubeless. And to be honest, I hate the tubeless at all… (so much mess, and I had to check the bars many more times) but! I am a traditional daily rider with my gravel, I do not race etc. just traditional, romantic, slow trips with the bags on my bike through forests, fields etc. 😂
I just noticed you touched the tire bead wax with your finger whereas you should not. If you read the package back carefully, it says touching is not recommended. Just wanted to let you know.
No worries, any video you or anybody else posts about tubless rims won't convert me until the industry "gets real" with tubless rims and makes them without spoke holes like tubless motorcyle rims with spokes. Tape, glue, sealants etc. to cover up spoke holes in the rim are all a huge freaking joke!!!
Just a quick thank you. I’ve been wanting to go tubeless for a while and watching this gave me the confidence to at least buy the parts. This morning I installed two tyres, quickly and easily using this method. Cheers.
maybe you should get a veloplugs for rim holes…just saying with 3m tape having the right size of type on the rim is very important how tire sits on the rim and if the tape is too wide or sloppy taped going much out of center will make inflating very hard, few weeks back got puncture (crap vitorias) and as i hit pothole the whole tyre blown out of rim (yeah in process of stopping i have puncutre sidewall…ah crap vittorias) and still having topeak small pump i was still able to reseat the tyre using just hand pump on the road (other could be said about the effin hole and dynaplugs..) btw the rectangular valves arent as good as the round ones for narrow rim width because then the tire has hard time to get around it and that is the main problem that sometimes you are trying to inflate and all air just goes out jus there because having tyre corectly around valve is very important in inflating and seating tyre correctly.
Thanks for the tip on the cheaper tape. I’ll try it. Proper tubeless tape is so expensive. I’ve been using gorilla tape which seals brilliantly but is a nightmare to remove. Plus I’ve had the gorilla tape adhesive literally glue the tyre to the rim making tyre removal difficult. Ride safe.
This is really good channel and its fun to watch 😂 🤟 what helped me to install exactly the same schwalbe pro one on narrow giant rims is co2 cartridge. This saved a lot of nerves to me 😊 I used a bit of soapy water also and the sealant was inside already. I have the issue that after the air is released the tyre is not staying seated. So there was no any other chance for me without compressor or co2.
What are those wheel wall hangers, i'm starting to get overwhelmed with various wheelsets and they don't look so pretty hanging from J hooks on the ceiling in the basement. Love the vids man!
@@ridesofjapan oh, I know, I can't justify the price in shipping to Canada though. Also your beard lately is looking good... Have you been trimming it with a samurai sword? I think it might be time to head home
Wonderful Video! My first road tubeless adventure was the heavy GP5000 TL which was horrible to mount, jumped off the rim when losing pressure and turned me back to tubes. This summer i gave it a second shot this time on my gravelbike with the Veloflex Corsa EVO TLR 25mm at about 230g and it was a miracle. Easy like you showed it. Once again, the tape had a problem above 3 bar and then the often reused valve failed at it‘s square foot.
Spent three hours trying to setup tubeless on some hutchinson CX tires and it ended in a tire exploding off the rim and ending up in the garbage. Totally ruined the bead. That tape beats ztto tape and could have used that bead wax.
Honestly your videos helped me catch the tubeless bug. 😅 Swapped to tubeless on my gravel and I love it. This video came at the perfect time, now just waiting on new rims for my road bike to finish converting.
i havent read all the comments here but one thing i realize why tapes are leaking especially when riding in wet instances…some rims have holes on the carbon fairing, like Bontrager’s wheels…i found out water get’s inside these holes and it goes back to the internal rim thru the spoke holes, thereby your tape lose adhesion to the rim bed, and air escapes by this way
I now use light tire inserts, which are about as light if not lighter as tubeless milk, the air holds for a few days, enough for a ride. in case of a flat i can ride home on the inserts
I like to press on the area of the tire where it's not wanting to seat and pump with the other hand, other than that I never had any issues setting it up.
Great stuff - especially the tip on which tape to use. I've been taping for years, and am done with electricians tape and Gorilla tape - too many failures. I think the part that is most important is to get the tape into the rim bead and press it down. Most of my tape failures has been when the tape leaves a gap between the bead and main channel, and the tire pulls the tape off when installing or removing. Anyway, thanks.
Years ago you had me convinced my life would be better with a Eastern EC90 cranks - unfortunately they were much trouble and died at 11,500k. Now I'm older and wiser, watching this video just looks like tubeless is way too much of a muck around. Tubalito tubes are a lighter option. Still love all your videos 🙂
For future reference, never watch my videos thinking it will make your life better 😅 My Easton crank have crossed the 30,000 mark by now (I think) and still going strong. Sorry to hear you had problems with yours.
To add to your comment regarding industry standards progressing, I had very similar issues you had in your “what not to do” vid with Schwalbe Pro Ones first gen tire. However their second Evolution version seated much easier and I’ve been able to unseat and reseat successfully within reasonable time and without too much cursing at the sky. Love your content, editing style and humor 👌
I'm pretty happy with latex inner tubes but it's a bit of a ballache having to pump them up every other day or basically before I ride. That said, I can't afford new wheels at the moment anyway and mine are bog standard and not tubeless ready. Take it easy, ride safe! 👍😁
First, excellent title! (because that's how we find these vids in our moments of need!) and, secondly, I can't belive you're the first person to ever really hone in on the critical difference an extra layer of rim tape can make......! I've watched "too many" tubeless install and troubleshooting vids to count as a reticent newbie to the tubeless world (and I'm not enthusiatic about in general either for all the same reasons as anyone else), and not one said "if 1 layer of tape doesn't work - try 2 and it will". I just bought this beautiful new Blackburn Track Pump for my forray into the tubeless world and when I dumped the stored chamber of air into my 38mm Panaracer SK's with only 1 layer of stan's tape - nada - zip - zero - pffffffffttttttttttttttt (I got a cool breeze from all the escapinbg air after all my pumping work - that's all). If I had not just watched your vid I would have been really confused and upset (again lol). But thanks to this materpiece of video magic content I remained mostly calm and added a 2nd layer (without spilling any of my lovely new SILCA sealant too - really proud of that) and tried again: ping.......ping PING! Rested tire on its side overnoght - rock solid this AM as advertised. Thank You Mr. Rides of Japan - THANK YOU!
Great video. I started riding tubeless this season on GP5000TL, 😂 but I like them on my Hyper 50. I find that my setup loses air so next time I re-install the tires I will try some of your tricks. I fill to 80psi and it drops to 60 the next day, was wondering if this is typical but from your video It appears its not.
Having had multiple nightmares in the past with tubeless (impossible to seat on a track pump) and having a set to fit this week this vid was just what I needed. Panaracer gravelking on a Hunt Disc. Went with 22mm tape on an Erto17 rim. The perfect amount of overlap on the sidewalls meant the tyre is so much tighter on first seat. Seated, sealed and done with not a drop spilled, still sat here in disbelief! GAME CHANGER 👍
@@dieserbenutzernameistvielzulan honestly. I had tried overnighting with tubes and whilst it helps a little, Get the tape right and you need zero skill for the rest. Proper simple.
This was suppose to be the New-frame-day video, but have been battling with customs and finally won, so while it is a bit late, it will land this week, and I will try and make and release that video a bit faster the the current rate of videos. Until then, lets tape some wheels!
Make sure to keep those tires rotated too 😁😂
@Click Bait I've seen someone brushing the beads with a little of the same sealant you use in the tyre, don't know if it actually works, but it has sense that it might help
Another tip: instead of poking a hole where the valve stem goes, try heating the tip of a steel wire or something, maybe an old spoke perhaps, untill it is red hot and then poke the hole. This way there is almost no chance of tearing the tape once you push the valve stem through 👌🏾
I can confirm that this works well
Good tip! A spoke would work just fine, but I took an old screwdriver and ground it down to a point on a bench grinder. It's one of my favorite tools for bike work/loads of other odd jobs. You can certainly buy something like this, but I've inherited tools from my great grandfather and grandfather, so had a silly amount o flat head screwdrivers, so just chose one and ground it to a point.
Why is that ?
One tip i found useful is if you struggle to get the tire to hold the air on initial pumping, try hanging the rim on something so that its off the ground and try pumping it up. I found that when on the ground the weight of the rim crushes the deflated tire and have greater chance of leaks. Cheers!
or you can put it in your upside down bike?
One thing you missed is always tape in the direction of travel at the top of the rim when installed. ive had times when the tire shifted on the rim under heavy braking and pick the tape up and roll it off.
Yes, yes, yes! You not only convey important info but also do it in a hilarious manner 🤣. Love the content and the humor.
I read a Rene Herse (Compass) blog that said to never use a compressor because if the tires don't seat with a regular pump they are too loose and may come off. They recommended adding a layer of tape till a regular pump seats the tire.
Has made life much easier/safer and I love tubeless.
That's not necessarily true, as the tire bead simply hasn't been properly seated and may very well be a tight fit once it makes it over the bead lip. Adding more layers of tape may aid seating and inflation with a track pump, but it in no way raises the chances of the tire staying on the rim once inflated to riding pressure. More layers of tape also has its downsides, including the tape deforming after tire removal since the tape adhesive doesn't work very well on its own backing, which is, of course, by design. Getting if off the roll in the first place would be a nightmare otherwise.
A variety of factors come into play that determine how stable a tubeless tire setup is, and the ones I've found to make a huge difference are whether the rim is hookless or not, with hookless rims being far more likely to allow a tire to blow off the rim for fairly obvious reasons, and the robustness of the casing, which determines, of course, how stretchy and pliable the overall tire is.
I found out the hard way when I ironically had a pair of Compass tires blow off their (hookless) rims despite being inflated to well under the maximum PSI indicated on the sidewall, which was disappointing but somewhat understandable given that they're among the most supple (i.e. stretchy) on the market. In the end, the only safe way to run them was with tubes.
A tubeless convert here! Three years now and zero punctures! For me, this is unprecedented. Prior to this, I'd always ridden "speedy" tyres, e.g. Michelin Pro4 SC, Michelin Power, Panaracer Race A Evo, etc. (but never TT tyres though), and I always had to fix punctures 2-5 times per year. Zero fixes in 3 years is just… blessing from the heaven. Since switching to tubeless, I've seen quite a few times some hardened slimy residue on my tyres after a ride. Must have been a puncture that I didn't even realise. All hail tubeless tyres!
P.S. I used to bodge 3M tapes (#2400 no residue version) as tubeless tapes too. While they work perfectly fine like yours, they always came off if I remove the tyres. Since setting up tubeless is already a hassle as is, compressor and all, I didn't want to redo the tape every time. Because of that, I'm now using Schwalbe tubeless tape. While it is the most expensive strip of adhesive I've ever bought, it sure does its job superbly without peeling/sliding off when tyres are removed. Use quality stuff, tape only once, ride forever.
Are you now riding TT tyres?
@@cccpkingu Nope. Vittoria Corsa Graphene 2.0 Tubeless. They might roll off the tongue horrendously, but they roll on the road perfectly.
I'm on my 2nd season on road tubeless, with zero problems.
I've had one puncture that didn't seal properly, but that was on an old worn tyre with sealant that had almost completely dried out.
I also use Corsa graphene 2.0 by recommendations from my wheel builder. Fast and durable.
I would also say : read the instructions from the tyres manufacturer ! For example : in order to avoid weeping/leaky sidewalls, WTB strongly suggest to brush the inside of the tyre with sealant before mounting the tyres and it actually works like a charm !
I'll have to try that if I ever put my WTBs back on a rim. I bought a set this year and they leaked out the sidewall like a sieve. I had to add sealant 3 times before they would hold. I was so frustrated with them I took them off and hung them up in the garage for the time being.
@@teddgram Ditto. But for me, after finally getting them on, I soon took them and sold them. They were v.disappointing. Far too leaky and fragile. Went back to some my reliable Hutchinson Fusion 5s.
@Xavier - Brush on and let the sealant dry before an install? Interesting. If so, I may condition my spare tyres.
While I'm sure this works at least if you use Orange Seal, I would argue that weeping sidewalls is a Bad Tire(tm). It's just insane to not make a tubeless tire reasonably air tight. Why don't they add the required latex layer in the factory? I think we've already had enough of bad tubeless products that makes tubeless a mess, and I hope weeping sidewalls is soon a thing of the past.
@@anderstorger3211 I had weeping with Orange Seal on brand new WTB tubeless tires.
Great tips! Especially about adding a second layer of tape, the horizontal “settling” trick, checking the valve cores, and focusing on the bead staying set. Great video as always.
Fun fact: When I bought my new mountainbike, I rode around two weeks without any sealant in the tires, not loosing any air. Now I know you have to put the sealant in yourself :D
Haha, I actually road the Original Shimano C24 tubeless with IRC tires without sealant for 9months back in the day... Actually miss that Wheelset
Happened to me too..
Thank you for this - a great overview with some excellent points. Especially the one about the tyre remaining on the rim when deflated - a good way a confirming a safer tyre/combo. My wheels came fitted with tape, so I've just stuck to the same width. Although unlike yours, its 2mm smaller that the internal rim width!
One other thing, check your wheel spec, and use a tyre that is wide enough! Most wheels specify a minimum, of say 25 mm. Some like Token G33, recommend a 30mm minimum tyre, since they have a internal width of +25mm.
Disregard this at your peril.
For the valve cores...i put a dab of oil on the rubber seal and they never gum up.
Tiny drop of oil on the thread of the valve core too, stops the sealant making it hard to turn, no problem at home with all the tools, but a faff when out.
Just stumbled across your channel and it's excellent ! Subscribed & Liked. Helpful tips, views and insights Thanks.
AND.. imho.. just get a tubeless pump with canister.. WHY F around?? .. boom and your tire is seated.. they are little more expensive, but totally worth it.. going to use for years.. just make your life easier!
I'm a dumbass and I wish I saw 3:59 before I started trying to trim the tape while it was on the rim
We’ve all been there :)
Yes, mounting tubeless tires has become much easier than it used to be.
I had bought an "air booster" a few years ago- which I do not need anymore.
If you have proper tools it’s actually less work, not more than clincher..
Do you find sealant drying over the off-season?
It will eventually dry out no matter on or off season. But you're correct, is you leaven them unused a few months it will definitely be time for top-up once it time to ride again.
That was an excellent tutorial. I haven't made the plunge yet because I find tubes are working great for me and I'm not a weight weeny. Never heard of bead wax before and I could have used it in the past for tight clinchers.
I used that DT Swiss tape a few years ago because it was the only tape my LBS had at the time. I like it a lot better than the cheap blue tape by far. I've had the blue tape fail (came undone, leaked, etc) a few times. It is more expensive, but as the saying goes "cry once".
Hahaha 😂, I just finished swapping tubeless tires and unfortunately had to replace rim tape on front rim. I'd say the worse part is the smell 🤢.
I'm no rocking Panaracer GK + tan sidewall
The fact about adding more tape is soo true,
or simply replacing old tape with new when changing to a new tyre!!
Hej Tobias, fin video. Vilket beadwax är det du använder. Kör numer med tubolight inserts efter mosad ENVE fälg incidenten :)
Och med inserts är nästa alla däck en rejäl utmaning att få på så tänkte testa bead wax tillsammans med min fina däcktång.
mvh
Gerry
Något japansk produkt jag hittade på amazon här. Förmodligen exakt samma sak de däck fett bilverkstäderna använder skulle jag gissa 👍
Really great trip through the tubeless install process. Thank you for sharing your time tested ways to get the job done. And thank you for the humor that comes with all your videos!
A handy trick I learnt recently was to use a tyre lever to pop the bead into place (just on one side) by the valve and this helps a lot with getting that initial inflation going. Only needs to be a few cm's either side of the valve :)
LOL you are fun, ty for another good video my friend
Washing my bike after my last duathlon, I saw the sealant on my seat tube. I found the sealed puncture on the rear. I run corsa speeds, I love that you can run a ridiculously thin tire and have that puncture protection. I’m a fan of the silica tape, others didn’t stick that well for me. Plus I found it to weigh 1g less, win. I am also using finish line sealant (no dried out residue). But you need a lot more so more weight, loss.
so happy to hear, 1) dorks can be improved in the tubeless area, 2) material has been improved overall, 3) tape and the bed/tyre interface is paramount, making me ❤️ my 1300g 45mm Farsports Feder disc non-holed-rim-bed wheels even more (0 punctures but only 4months of use)
Top tip, always inflate tubeless tyres in the 9 or 3 o'clock position
My latest carbon wheel set 2021 Roval CLX rapid are no longer tubeless compatible. Specialized/Roval seem to be moving away from it on its lighter weight road wheels. Let me tell you its been a pleasure to not deal with tubeless.
ভাই আপনে কি এত দিন
ধুমাইয়া কাম দাম কইরা পিছের হুইল ডি কিন্না আবার ভিডিও বানাইতে আইছেন?😆😆
টিউবলেস টেইপ কেডা শইল্লে পেচায় ভাই😆😆
টেকায় ছিনিমিনি করে? 😂
I'm not a weight weenie, so love my 5000TL's. Only one flat that wouldn't seal in 10,000+ miles of riding them, great and predictable grip, and long life. First I'm hearing of a "5000TR", and I'm intrigued, though "race" components usually mean you compromise in other areas like life or puncture resistance. I guess we will see!
Great tip on bead wax - cheers. I'd given up trying get my old G-Ones to re-seat straight on a new set of wheels, but gave some bead wax a try and they seated first time.
Tape,tape more tape - some wax, sealant. yeah still not sold just yet on tubeless, but I know lot's that do love it. GP5000's with Tubolito's for me.
With new tape, I like to first mount the tire with a tube and let that sit overnight at pressure to get the tape seated and sealed really well on the rim before going tubeless
me too
same here
Good one - and I think this helps if the tyre bead is a bit distorted / creased from being folded up in the packaging.
It also helps with getting the tire to conform to the rim.
Have you also tried the Orange Seal Endurance yet? Bought it because they recommend it for road tires and the regular stuff for mtb. But now i see you using the regular stuff for roadies ;)
Nope, only used regular orange. From what I've read, Endurance last longer but doesn’t seal as good. No idea if that true or not, but I have no complaint with the regular orange seal.
@@ridesofjapan how often do you refresh regular orange? I've just started using it this season, and to me it seems to stay fresh much longer than advertised (so I see no reason to use endurance), but I suppose it depends on a lot of factors, climate etc. My bike has been standing in a cool garage for way too much time this season, that may have helped...
I use tubeless since the early 2000 on my MTB 100% for it on a higher volume tire but on a 25-28c tire it's just shit in every imaginable way. Heavy, sealant want handle the pressure, impossible if you want to switch the front tire to the rear. I currently use pirellis and tubolitos 9000km in no issues.
Great video!! I've been doing tubeless myself for the past year or two, and while there were plenty of really quick "tubeless how-to" videos out there, there aren't a ton of videos out there that address the subtleties of road tubeless like you did in this one - especially for road tubeless. And I really like the bit addressing how tires can unseat when deflated - I searched far and wide for an answer to that problem (even commented on one of your earlier videos). You're the first person I've seen to address that concern and I think that's really valuable. :)
Missed opportunity. You should've said "It's all about the rim job" instead of "tape job". Maybe next time...
Your tshirt is slightly grey with the pink 6.8 . I can't seem to find it on your merch site. Or is it just the white one with different lighting?
It is the one tee spring, it’s not pure white.
teespring.com/try-6-8?tsmac=store&tsmic=ridesofjapan&pid=211&cid=5291&sid=front
@@ridesofjapan thanks!
just this weekend transformed my trekking bike to tubeless (😁bought all the beginners' stuff including a small compressor (i live in a small appartement so it's good the compressor always just runs 30 seconds and lasts then for about 4 times filling the tyre)). and it feels like it hovers over the roads. i now see i made a mistake with the tape. i bought schwalbe tape but 21mm (have a 22mm bed). but with two layers it worked.
I only use my bike to go to the store mostly, but I live in FL where we have tons of sand-spurs everywhere which managed to give me regular flats. Once I went tubeless that completely stopped. I also am using Orange seal. The one time I had a puncture by something besides a sand-spur (a screw) it plugged the hole once I took it out after just one revolution. Sprayed me in the face the first time but small price to pay for success. I do not have tubeless rims and using Maxxis Rambler tires 700c x 42. I have to use a 1" tie-down strap wrapped around the whole tire with the spring clamp thing to compress the tire enough for the bead to touch both sides all the way around. To clean off old "Orange" sealer IDK about others, but lacquer thinner and a copper scrub pad makes it fall apart pretty good.
In my pre-tubeless cheap weight weenie era, I would use 3M’s fiberglass reinforced strapping tape as a rim strip which worked quite well but was very very thin…not an issue as I was using inner tubes sometimes latex. It always worked. But here in these modern times experiencing that tubeless tapes generally deflect into the spoke holes of a rim w a mounted under pressure I am thinking once again of applying a first layer of that strapping tape prior to actually putting on one layer maybe two of the 8898 that you’ve recommended, thoughts considerations? Have you ever done this before? maybe you’re doing it now? Or never will!
Thanks for all the fun
In my shop I (personally) will often let the tape ride up the bead a little too, so even wider. The main problem is cleaning the rim, as I have not found any cleaner that works well... Also I press down on the valve within the rim with my thumb or a tyre lever, to compress the rubber when I tighten the valve nut, this also helps removing the valve.
I have now been running Vittoria Corsa on Velocity A23 on my singlespeed Ciocc commuter for 8 months in thorn infested Arizona with zero punctures. My only issue is that I don't think all sealants are good for road pressures: Stan's does seem to just blow through holes at higher pressure.
I love tubeless. I hate the mess, but it is worth the lack of punctures and the lovely functionality at pressures even as low as 40psi (when I forget to inflate, and yes I weigh around 70kg).
My 2021 made in Taiwan rim tape glue doesnt stick anymore, beware...
Tjena! My next bike will be tubeless. Want to try it and have the experience. Casual rider so I am choosing "heavier" and more puncture proof tires to avoid punctures. I think I have had 1 puncture that last 3 years *knock on wood*. Thank you for all the awesome tricks to get the best experience with tubeless.
Use the ENVE valve nuts which allow air to escape from the rim through the valve hole if your tape is compromised. I have exploded expensive carbon rims because the inner tape was compromised and the air went into the rim and expanded the rim until failure. Not a good lesson to learn the hard way! The ENVE nuts will not allow your rims to “inflate” so worth doing in my estimation. They call it the “pressure relief valve stem nut” and I have no financial or other interest in pushing ENVE products.
Nice video. Yep, I still hate tubeless. Did 100 miles in almost 100F / 37C yesterday. Mile 90 got a slice that drained enough air fast enough to shoot sealant all over me and bead came off (even though the bead previously had been secured as you demonstrate in the video). So I had the pleasure of muscling a tube into this tubeless setup which is one of the messiest propositions I can think of.
Someone may say, well that is a one-off situation and that the benefits outweigh the negatives. And obviously for some people this is the case. I have a real issue with any type mechanical failure on a bike the is reasonably likely to occur that I can't fix quickly. Tubed setups get more flats for sure, but they take 5 minutes to fix. Tubeless are less frequent but the resolution is highly variable and depends on the rim/tire combo (I can barely get this particular tubeless tire on the rim due to the tight tolerances). I just wanted to offer the alternate view 🤣, rant over.
Your scenario is why I didn't buy a tubeless wheel set so far.
I have Schwalbe Marathons on my road bike. I know, slow and heavy, but the only puncture I had so far was a cut in the sidewall that at least would have been a challenge for the sealant.
Fair point. It does indeed come down to a good tyre/wheel combo. When it's right, you'll thank the preacher for showing you the promised land - but when it's wrong, oh boy, you'll curse the f#cker who lying to you!!
Ehhh, it takes ~15min for patch adhesive to completely cure so flats take a fair bit longer than 5min to patch
@@cjohnson3836 Afaik there are self adhesive patches. I never tried them.
But it would take me much longer than 5 minutes to repair a flat tire because I'm not used to it 😉
@@cjohnson3836 I bring two tubes, swap the tube, and later I patch the offending tube at home at my liesure (if ever). My goal is to ride and reduce time wrenching on the side of the road. I contest it takes 5 minutes.
on ENVE AR wheels you can't really stretch tape like you do in video. You have to push tape in channel first.. And then leave tube in for night or two..
The tape dose the “stretch” at all, it’s more just about keeping tension on the tape as I lay it down (in the center)
But you are correct, depending on rims, there might be better ways to do the job.
Leaving a tube in is definitely a good idea 👌
@@ridesofjapan ENVE AR wheels are hookless and they have made that channel very deep so therefore it is super difficult to apply the tape.. Also their(ENVE) tape is not super stretchy but is required to be used otherwise they can void warranty..
Improper Installation or Setup - Not covered by Lifetime Incident Protection (Examples: using non-ENVE tubeless tape, valve-stems or lock-rings, over-inflating a rim, failure to install Protective Rim Strip on M7 or M9 Series wheels)
It's just an info fact from my experience..Great video
Definitely not worth loosing the warranty to save a few dollars tubeless tape, especially on those wheels! 👍
When you said "If you are happy with your clinchers..." I heard "If you are happy with your clean shirts" and I thought that was also a valid argument with spraying sealant.
I looked up that new TR tire. It sounds exciting.
I just switched back to tubes after a couple of months with a tubeless. And to be honest, I hate the tubeless at all… (so much mess, and I had to check the bars many more times) but! I am a traditional daily rider with my gravel, I do not race etc. just traditional, romantic, slow trips with the bags on my bike through forests, fields etc. 😂
Lessons learned - new tyres. New tape don't skimp. Life made easy. Air tank a good investment after 20 tries today 💕 a lot fitter now.
I just noticed you touched the tire bead wax with your finger whereas you should not. If you read the package back carefully, it says touching is not recommended. Just wanted to let you know.
Well I'm so glad this is not another conversion therapy video. Seen so many of those. Happy to come out as a rim-braking-inner-tube roadie.
Good video. Also clean out your valve stem, with core removed, when switching tires as sealant build up over time will inhibit air flow.
Fitting Conti 5000 TL to my Giant SLR 1 rims was IMPOSSIBLE!
No worries, any video you or anybody else posts about tubless rims won't convert me until the industry "gets real" with tubless rims and makes them without spoke holes like tubless motorcyle rims with spokes. Tape, glue, sealants etc. to cover up spoke holes in the rim are all a huge freaking joke!!!
you can buy rims without spokeholes if you dont mind having trouble with spoke nipples. no tape or selant needed though if thats what youre searching.
Just a quick thank you. I’ve been wanting to go tubeless for a while and watching this gave me the confidence to at least buy the parts. This morning I installed two tyres, quickly and easily using this method. Cheers.
maybe you should get a veloplugs for rim holes…just saying with 3m tape having the right size of type on the rim is very important how tire sits on the rim and if the tape is too wide or sloppy taped going much out of center will make inflating very hard, few weeks back got puncture (crap vitorias) and as i hit pothole the whole tyre blown out of rim (yeah in process of stopping i have puncutre sidewall…ah crap vittorias) and still having topeak small pump i was still able to reseat the tyre using just hand pump on the road (other could be said about the effin hole and dynaplugs..) btw the rectangular valves arent as good as the round ones for narrow rim width because then the tire has hard time to get around it and that is the main problem that sometimes you are trying to inflate and all air just goes out jus there because having tyre corectly around valve is very important in inflating and seating tyre correctly.
Great video, you crack me up, more videos please
Thanks for the tip on the cheaper tape. I’ll try it. Proper tubeless tape is so expensive. I’ve been using gorilla tape which seals brilliantly but is a nightmare to remove. Plus I’ve had the gorilla tape adhesive literally glue the tyre to the rim making tyre removal difficult. Ride safe.
This is really good channel and its fun to watch 😂 🤟 what helped me to install exactly the same schwalbe pro one on narrow giant rims is co2 cartridge. This saved a lot of nerves to me 😊 I used a bit of soapy water also and the sealant was inside already. I have the issue that after the air is released the tyre is not staying seated. So there was no any other chance for me without compressor or co2.
What are those wheel wall hangers, i'm starting to get overwhelmed with various wheelsets and they don't look so pretty hanging from J hooks on the ceiling in the basement. Love the vids man!
Check my DIY here 👍 th-cam.com/video/26lqUfRYVxQ/w-d-xo.html
@@ridesofjapan Awesome appreciate it, also still jealous of the cap.
Bonsai cycle works
@@ridesofjapan oh, I know, I can't justify the price in shipping to Canada though. Also your beard lately is looking good... Have you been trimming it with a samurai sword? I think it might be time to head home
Extra thick Inner Tube is better for Puncture resistance than tubeless
Wonderful Video! My first road tubeless adventure was the heavy GP5000 TL which was horrible to mount, jumped off the rim when losing pressure and turned me back to tubes. This summer i gave it a second shot this time on my gravelbike with the Veloflex Corsa EVO TLR 25mm at about 230g and it was a miracle. Easy like you showed it. Once again, the tape had a problem above 3 bar and then the often reused valve failed at it‘s square foot.
In my opinion, a must have for any tubeless user are the Fillmore valves. Best invention ever, you will never go back to presta valves again.
Love your content! I've missed your regular uploading.
Spent three hours trying to setup tubeless on some hutchinson CX tires and it ended in a tire exploding off the rim and ending up in the garbage. Totally ruined the bead. That tape beats ztto tape and could have used that bead wax.
What you think about TPU inner tubes?? I ride tubeless but I’m curious
Honestly your videos helped me catch the tubeless bug. 😅 Swapped to tubeless on my gravel and I love it. This video came at the perfect time, now just waiting on new rims for my road bike to finish converting.
i havent read all the comments here but one thing i realize why tapes are leaking especially when riding in wet instances…some rims have holes on the carbon fairing, like Bontrager’s wheels…i found out water get’s inside these holes and it goes back to the internal rim thru the spoke holes, thereby your tape lose adhesion to the rim bed, and air escapes by this way
I now use light tire inserts, which are about as light if not lighter as tubeless milk, the air holds for a few days, enough for a ride. in case of a flat i can ride home on the inserts
I like to press on the area of the tire where it's not wanting to seat and pump with the other hand, other than that I never had any issues setting it up.
Great stuff - especially the tip on which tape to use. I've been taping for years, and am done with electricians tape and Gorilla tape - too many failures. I think the part that is most important is to get the tape into the rim bead and press it down. Most of my tape failures has been when the tape leaves a gap between the bead and main channel, and the tire pulls the tape off when installing or removing. Anyway, thanks.
This video and tips therein (on tape) just saved my sanity. Stort tack!!
Thanks for the advice. So, the answer is always 'more tape!' and 'more sealant'.
Never thought to re-tape every time. Good idea
That's me with TEFL tape and naughty bottom brackets.
😂
Years ago you had me convinced my life would be better with a Eastern EC90 cranks - unfortunately they were much trouble and died at 11,500k. Now I'm older and wiser, watching this video just looks like tubeless is way too much of a muck around. Tubalito tubes are a lighter option. Still love all your videos 🙂
For future reference, never watch my videos thinking it will make your life better 😅
My Easton crank have crossed the 30,000 mark by now (I think) and still going strong. Sorry to hear you had problems with yours.
…and +1 on adding another layer of tape…that is the real deal to have the tyres seal just enough for handpump to work
Same experience and learnings here! Square valves is a good tip! Round ones will rotate and get stuck by the sealant which makes them hard to remove.
Top tubeless tips.👍 Dura ace 12 speed anyone?🤩
one round of guerilla tape on the rim does the trick for me. Not sure its available in Japan.
Can we have a "The future is bright" RoJ t-shirt please?
best videos on the interweb.... Great work and thanks for the smiles
Did You have any bike fitting or you just adjust by Your own?
To add to your comment regarding industry standards progressing, I had very similar issues you had in your “what not to do” vid with Schwalbe Pro Ones first gen tire. However their second Evolution version seated much easier and I’ve been able to unseat and reseat successfully within reasonable time and without too much cursing at the sky. Love your content, editing style and humor 👌
I'm pretty happy with latex inner tubes but it's a bit of a ballache having to pump them up every other day or basically before I ride. That said, I can't afford new wheels at the moment anyway and mine are bog standard and not tubeless ready. Take it easy, ride safe! 👍😁
First, excellent title! (because that's how we find these vids in our moments of need!) and, secondly, I can't belive you're the first person to ever really hone in on the critical difference an extra layer of rim tape can make......! I've watched "too many" tubeless install and troubleshooting vids to count as a reticent newbie to the tubeless world (and I'm not enthusiatic about in general either for all the same reasons as anyone else), and not one said "if 1 layer of tape doesn't work - try 2 and it will". I just bought this beautiful new Blackburn Track Pump for my forray into the tubeless world and when I dumped the stored chamber of air into my 38mm Panaracer SK's with only 1 layer of stan's tape - nada - zip - zero - pffffffffttttttttttttttt (I got a cool breeze from all the escapinbg air after all my pumping work - that's all). If I had not just watched your vid I would have been really confused and upset (again lol). But thanks to this materpiece of video magic content I remained mostly calm and added a 2nd layer (without spilling any of my lovely new SILCA sealant too - really proud of that) and tried again: ping.......ping PING! Rested tire on its side overnoght - rock solid this AM as advertised. Thank You Mr. Rides of Japan - THANK YOU!
Happy to hear it help mate! 🤙
Your editing is absolutely top notch!
I wonder why don't you add glitter to the sealant? Many people find that a puncture seals better with glitter / small particles
I heard that advice some time ago but when there's a mess with the sealant, that glitter stuff gets everywhere.
@@jochenkraus7016 some frames look even better with that glitter all over chainstays!
No mention of those foams inserts. Thoughts?? Just a MTB thing or good for road too?
I sealed the valve stem with a small amount of gasket maker to stop leaks. It always worked.
Oh yes! Cycling tech and Japanese bondage in one video.
Great video. I started riding tubeless this season on GP5000TL, 😂 but I like them on my Hyper 50. I find that my setup loses air so next time I re-install the tires I will try some of your tricks. I fill to 80psi and it drops to 60 the next day, was wondering if this is typical but from your video It appears its not.
To be fair, 60psi is probably the max I ever put in a tire ;)
Cheers!
i needed this 4 days ago ^^ went crazy taping my rims again…
Having had multiple nightmares in the past with tubeless (impossible to seat on a track pump) and having a set to fit this week this vid was just what I needed. Panaracer gravelking on a Hunt Disc. Went with 22mm tape on an Erto17 rim. The perfect amount of overlap on the sidewalls meant the tyre is so much tighter on first seat. Seated, sealed and done with not a drop spilled, still sat here in disbelief! GAME CHANGER 👍
try to insall a tube before adding sealant. pump it up and take it out again. one side will stay seated.
@@dieserbenutzernameistvielzulan honestly. I had tried overnighting with tubes and whilst it helps a little, Get the tape right and you need zero skill for the rest. Proper simple.
Captain Tubeless is better than Captain Marvel! 😉
Damnit why can’t I find socks like that?
Doesn't adding more tape make it harder to get the tire off/back on when you are in the field dealing with a flat?
Yup, extremely difficult sometimes. I've actually had to use pliers to break the bead a few times.
Hi captain tubeless, how do u think of Roval‘s tubeless rim plug? A little plastic plug and an O-ring, are they reliable enough?
Never tried, never will... too heavy
Often find that tubeless tape sticks quite badly…