This was suppose to be the New-frame-day video, but have been battling with customs and finally won, so while it is a bit late, it will land this week, and I will try and make and release that video a bit faster the the current rate of videos. Until then, lets tape some wheels!
@Click Bait I've seen someone brushing the beads with a little of the same sealant you use in the tyre, don't know if it actually works, but it has sense that it might help
Another tip: instead of poking a hole where the valve stem goes, try heating the tip of a steel wire or something, maybe an old spoke perhaps, untill it is red hot and then poke the hole. This way there is almost no chance of tearing the tape once you push the valve stem through 👌🏾
Good tip! A spoke would work just fine, but I took an old screwdriver and ground it down to a point on a bench grinder. It's one of my favorite tools for bike work/loads of other odd jobs. You can certainly buy something like this, but I've inherited tools from my great grandfather and grandfather, so had a silly amount o flat head screwdrivers, so just chose one and ground it to a point.
A tubeless convert here! Three years now and zero punctures! For me, this is unprecedented. Prior to this, I'd always ridden "speedy" tyres, e.g. Michelin Pro4 SC, Michelin Power, Panaracer Race A Evo, etc. (but never TT tyres though), and I always had to fix punctures 2-5 times per year. Zero fixes in 3 years is just… blessing from the heaven. Since switching to tubeless, I've seen quite a few times some hardened slimy residue on my tyres after a ride. Must have been a puncture that I didn't even realise. All hail tubeless tyres! P.S. I used to bodge 3M tapes (#2400 no residue version) as tubeless tapes too. While they work perfectly fine like yours, they always came off if I remove the tyres. Since setting up tubeless is already a hassle as is, compressor and all, I didn't want to redo the tape every time. Because of that, I'm now using Schwalbe tubeless tape. While it is the most expensive strip of adhesive I've ever bought, it sure does its job superbly without peeling/sliding off when tyres are removed. Use quality stuff, tape only once, ride forever.
I'm on my 2nd season on road tubeless, with zero problems. I've had one puncture that didn't seal properly, but that was on an old worn tyre with sealant that had almost completely dried out. I also use Corsa graphene 2.0 by recommendations from my wheel builder. Fast and durable.
One tip i found useful is if you struggle to get the tire to hold the air on initial pumping, try hanging the rim on something so that its off the ground and try pumping it up. I found that when on the ground the weight of the rim crushes the deflated tire and have greater chance of leaks. Cheers!
One thing you missed is always tape in the direction of travel at the top of the rim when installed. ive had times when the tire shifted on the rim under heavy braking and pick the tape up and roll it off.
Yes, yes, yes! You not only convey important info but also do it in a hilarious manner 🤣. Love the content and the humor. I read a Rene Herse (Compass) blog that said to never use a compressor because if the tires don't seat with a regular pump they are too loose and may come off. They recommended adding a layer of tape till a regular pump seats the tire. Has made life much easier/safer and I love tubeless.
That's not necessarily true, as the tire bead simply hasn't been properly seated and may very well be a tight fit once it makes it over the bead lip. Adding more layers of tape may aid seating and inflation with a track pump, but it in no way raises the chances of the tire staying on the rim once inflated to riding pressure. More layers of tape also has its downsides, including the tape deforming after tire removal since the tape adhesive doesn't work very well on its own backing, which is, of course, by design. Getting if off the roll in the first place would be a nightmare otherwise. A variety of factors come into play that determine how stable a tubeless tire setup is, and the ones I've found to make a huge difference are whether the rim is hookless or not, with hookless rims being far more likely to allow a tire to blow off the rim for fairly obvious reasons, and the robustness of the casing, which determines, of course, how stretchy and pliable the overall tire is. I found out the hard way when I ironically had a pair of Compass tires blow off their (hookless) rims despite being inflated to well under the maximum PSI indicated on the sidewall, which was disappointing but somewhat understandable given that they're among the most supple (i.e. stretchy) on the market. In the end, the only safe way to run them was with tubes.
Fun fact: When I bought my new mountainbike, I rode around two weeks without any sealant in the tires, not loosing any air. Now I know you have to put the sealant in yourself :D
First, excellent title! (because that's how we find these vids in our moments of need!) and, secondly, I can't belive you're the first person to ever really hone in on the critical difference an extra layer of rim tape can make......! I've watched "too many" tubeless install and troubleshooting vids to count as a reticent newbie to the tubeless world (and I'm not enthusiatic about in general either for all the same reasons as anyone else), and not one said "if 1 layer of tape doesn't work - try 2 and it will". I just bought this beautiful new Blackburn Track Pump for my forray into the tubeless world and when I dumped the stored chamber of air into my 38mm Panaracer SK's with only 1 layer of stan's tape - nada - zip - zero - pffffffffttttttttttttttt (I got a cool breeze from all the escapinbg air after all my pumping work - that's all). If I had not just watched your vid I would have been really confused and upset (again lol). But thanks to this materpiece of video magic content I remained mostly calm and added a 2nd layer (without spilling any of my lovely new SILCA sealant too - really proud of that) and tried again: ping.......ping PING! Rested tire on its side overnoght - rock solid this AM as advertised. Thank You Mr. Rides of Japan - THANK YOU!
Just a quick thank you. I’ve been wanting to go tubeless for a while and watching this gave me the confidence to at least buy the parts. This morning I installed two tyres, quickly and easily using this method. Cheers.
so happy to hear, 1) dorks can be improved in the tubeless area, 2) material has been improved overall, 3) tape and the bed/tyre interface is paramount, making me ❤️ my 1300g 45mm Farsports Feder disc non-holed-rim-bed wheels even more (0 punctures but only 4months of use)
Really great trip through the tubeless install process. Thank you for sharing your time tested ways to get the job done. And thank you for the humor that comes with all your videos!
I would also say : read the instructions from the tyres manufacturer ! For example : in order to avoid weeping/leaky sidewalls, WTB strongly suggest to brush the inside of the tyre with sealant before mounting the tyres and it actually works like a charm !
I'll have to try that if I ever put my WTBs back on a rim. I bought a set this year and they leaked out the sidewall like a sieve. I had to add sealant 3 times before they would hold. I was so frustrated with them I took them off and hung them up in the garage for the time being.
@@teddgram Ditto. But for me, after finally getting them on, I soon took them and sold them. They were v.disappointing. Far too leaky and fragile. Went back to some my reliable Hutchinson Fusion 5s.
While I'm sure this works at least if you use Orange Seal, I would argue that weeping sidewalls is a Bad Tire(tm). It's just insane to not make a tubeless tire reasonably air tight. Why don't they add the required latex layer in the factory? I think we've already had enough of bad tubeless products that makes tubeless a mess, and I hope weeping sidewalls is soon a thing of the past.
A handy trick I learnt recently was to use a tyre lever to pop the bead into place (just on one side) by the valve and this helps a lot with getting that initial inflation going. Only needs to be a few cm's either side of the valve :)
Having had multiple nightmares in the past with tubeless (impossible to seat on a track pump) and having a set to fit this week this vid was just what I needed. Panaracer gravelking on a Hunt Disc. Went with 22mm tape on an Erto17 rim. The perfect amount of overlap on the sidewalls meant the tyre is so much tighter on first seat. Seated, sealed and done with not a drop spilled, still sat here in disbelief! GAME CHANGER 👍
@@dieserbenutzernameistvielzulan honestly. I had tried overnighting with tubes and whilst it helps a little, Get the tape right and you need zero skill for the rest. Proper simple.
Honestly your videos helped me catch the tubeless bug. 😅 Swapped to tubeless on my gravel and I love it. This video came at the perfect time, now just waiting on new rims for my road bike to finish converting.
Washing my bike after my last duathlon, I saw the sealant on my seat tube. I found the sealed puncture on the rear. I run corsa speeds, I love that you can run a ridiculously thin tire and have that puncture protection. I’m a fan of the silica tape, others didn’t stick that well for me. Plus I found it to weigh 1g less, win. I am also using finish line sealant (no dried out residue). But you need a lot more so more weight, loss.
Something that I see tubeless experts doing but that rarely gets communicated to noobs: Make sure the tape is taut and creates a high, solid bridge across the centre channel. If you run your hands along and force it in afterwards you're shooting yourself in the foot. A nice high sturdy centre channel creates a snug, airtight fit against the bead when you try and seat it and makes for super easy inflation that doesn't need a compressor or even a floor pump sometimes. Another tip is if you have rims that are just not working for you no matter what then try Bontrager tubeless rim strips. These solid plastic strips create a high, perfect and durable tubeless platform including bead shelves for extra retention. While they're not the lightest solution they will get any rim seating and holding beautifully (maybe even some non tubeless rims but you didn't hear that from me)
Wonderful Video! My first road tubeless adventure was the heavy GP5000 TL which was horrible to mount, jumped off the rim when losing pressure and turned me back to tubes. This summer i gave it a second shot this time on my gravelbike with the Veloflex Corsa EVO TLR 25mm at about 230g and it was a miracle. Easy like you showed it. Once again, the tape had a problem above 3 bar and then the often reused valve failed at it‘s square foot.
I used that DT Swiss tape a few years ago because it was the only tape my LBS had at the time. I like it a lot better than the cheap blue tape by far. I've had the blue tape fail (came undone, leaked, etc) a few times. It is more expensive, but as the saying goes "cry once".
Thank you for this - a great overview with some excellent points. Especially the one about the tyre remaining on the rim when deflated - a good way a confirming a safer tyre/combo. My wheels came fitted with tape, so I've just stuck to the same width. Although unlike yours, its 2mm smaller that the internal rim width! One other thing, check your wheel spec, and use a tyre that is wide enough! Most wheels specify a minimum, of say 25 mm. Some like Token G33, recommend a 30mm minimum tyre, since they have a internal width of +25mm. Disregard this at your peril.
That was an excellent tutorial. I haven't made the plunge yet because I find tubes are working great for me and I'm not a weight weeny. Never heard of bead wax before and I could have used it in the past for tight clinchers.
I only use my bike to go to the store mostly, but I live in FL where we have tons of sand-spurs everywhere which managed to give me regular flats. Once I went tubeless that completely stopped. I also am using Orange seal. The one time I had a puncture by something besides a sand-spur (a screw) it plugged the hole once I took it out after just one revolution. Sprayed me in the face the first time but small price to pay for success. I do not have tubeless rims and using Maxxis Rambler tires 700c x 42. I have to use a 1" tie-down strap wrapped around the whole tire with the spring clamp thing to compress the tire enough for the bead to touch both sides all the way around. To clean off old "Orange" sealer IDK about others, but lacquer thinner and a copper scrub pad makes it fall apart pretty good.
Great video!! I've been doing tubeless myself for the past year or two, and while there were plenty of really quick "tubeless how-to" videos out there, there aren't a ton of videos out there that address the subtleties of road tubeless like you did in this one - especially for road tubeless. And I really like the bit addressing how tires can unseat when deflated - I searched far and wide for an answer to that problem (even commented on one of your earlier videos). You're the first person I've seen to address that concern and I think that's really valuable. :)
Great tips! Especially about adding a second layer of tape, the horizontal “settling” trick, checking the valve cores, and focusing on the bead staying set. Great video as always.
To add to your comment regarding industry standards progressing, I had very similar issues you had in your “what not to do” vid with Schwalbe Pro Ones first gen tire. However their second Evolution version seated much easier and I’ve been able to unseat and reseat successfully within reasonable time and without too much cursing at the sky. Love your content, editing style and humor 👌
Great stuff - especially the tip on which tape to use. I've been taping for years, and am done with electricians tape and Gorilla tape - too many failures. I think the part that is most important is to get the tape into the rim bead and press it down. Most of my tape failures has been when the tape leaves a gap between the bead and main channel, and the tire pulls the tape off when installing or removing. Anyway, thanks.
Tiny drop of oil on the thread of the valve core too, stops the sealant making it hard to turn, no problem at home with all the tools, but a faff when out.
Great tip on bead wax - cheers. I'd given up trying get my old G-Ones to re-seat straight on a new set of wheels, but gave some bead wax a try and they seated first time.
Tjena! My next bike will be tubeless. Want to try it and have the experience. Casual rider so I am choosing "heavier" and more puncture proof tires to avoid punctures. I think I have had 1 puncture that last 3 years *knock on wood*. Thank you for all the awesome tricks to get the best experience with tubeless.
In my shop I (personally) will often let the tape ride up the bead a little too, so even wider. The main problem is cleaning the rim, as I have not found any cleaner that works well... Also I press down on the valve within the rim with my thumb or a tyre lever, to compress the rubber when I tighten the valve nut, this also helps removing the valve. I have now been running Vittoria Corsa on Velocity A23 on my singlespeed Ciocc commuter for 8 months in thorn infested Arizona with zero punctures. My only issue is that I don't think all sealants are good for road pressures: Stan's does seem to just blow through holes at higher pressure. I love tubeless. I hate the mess, but it is worth the lack of punctures and the lovely functionality at pressures even as low as 40psi (when I forget to inflate, and yes I weigh around 70kg).
Nice video. Yep, I still hate tubeless. Did 100 miles in almost 100F / 37C yesterday. Mile 90 got a slice that drained enough air fast enough to shoot sealant all over me and bead came off (even though the bead previously had been secured as you demonstrate in the video). So I had the pleasure of muscling a tube into this tubeless setup which is one of the messiest propositions I can think of. Someone may say, well that is a one-off situation and that the benefits outweigh the negatives. And obviously for some people this is the case. I have a real issue with any type mechanical failure on a bike the is reasonably likely to occur that I can't fix quickly. Tubed setups get more flats for sure, but they take 5 minutes to fix. Tubeless are less frequent but the resolution is highly variable and depends on the rim/tire combo (I can barely get this particular tubeless tire on the rim due to the tight tolerances). I just wanted to offer the alternate view 🤣, rant over.
Your scenario is why I didn't buy a tubeless wheel set so far. I have Schwalbe Marathons on my road bike. I know, slow and heavy, but the only puncture I had so far was a cut in the sidewall that at least would have been a challenge for the sealant.
Fair point. It does indeed come down to a good tyre/wheel combo. When it's right, you'll thank the preacher for showing you the promised land - but when it's wrong, oh boy, you'll curse the f#cker who lying to you!!
@@cjohnson3836 Afaik there are self adhesive patches. I never tried them. But it would take me much longer than 5 minutes to repair a flat tire because I'm not used to it 😉
@@cjohnson3836 I bring two tubes, swap the tube, and later I patch the offending tube at home at my liesure (if ever). My goal is to ride and reduce time wrenching on the side of the road. I contest it takes 5 minutes.
I use 3M 8992 (same as Mavic use), another popular among manfacturers is Tesa 4289. Bike-branded versions of these tapes easily cost 10x the price. Great tip about using a scalpel to narrow down the tape, then there's really no need to buy branded stuff. I have yet to master the technique to lay down the tape. You make it look easy, but I think it's hard, and I usually need to try more than once before I manage to get the tape down without a single crease -- which is extremely important, otherwise air will find its way and you get ghost leaks through the tape out through the spoke nipples or valve hole. Been there done that. I also would like to mention a syringe of the type the goes all the way into the bottom of the tire. KOM cycling has one, and now Park Tool is coming out with TSI-1. This requires a tubeless valve that has a large opening in the bottom, which all modern ones have but older ones had not (today you may want one that has opening to the side too if to use tire inserts). I very much prefer to insert sealant this way, the least messy, and as an added bonus you can remove tire sealant as well, or just check the status of it by sucking it out using the syringe. You can't have lots of fibers in your sealant though if going through the valve, but for gravel or road I don't think it's worthwhile to have that. Another reason for it being important that the bead stays on with no air, is that it becomes less risk for a mess when adding sealant, or refilling mid-season. I have a small bottle to contain compressed air, rather than a compressor. I'd say it's a recommended accessory. A perfectly clean rim and new tire should go on without compressed air, but reseating an old tire (I swap tires for the winter) can be tricky according to my experience. Perhaps adding more rim tape to compensate bead stretch and clean really really carefully would make it work... but I use compressed air in that case. If one needs tire levers to get on or off the tire, or the bead comes lose - the tubeless system is not well balanced, and it will be a headache to work with. Been there, done that. The old school tubeless systems just had lots and lots of issues. It really has got a lot better, still not perfect though so I think you still can find some tough tire/rim combinations. Concerning sealant I think orange seal is rather nice for making a system air tight, like a butyl tube almost. With other sealants I have had needed to pump the tires much more often. Orange Seal does have a tendency to clog the valve cores more than others though. More than once I've had a half-clogged core that wouldn't close properly and I'd lose air over night. If you know about it one can live with it though. Make sure to have the valve 12 o'clock when pumping up to minimize sealant that find its way to the valve core. Its sealing performance of punctures I don't know how it compares, but according to reviews I've seen it should be good.
With new tape, I like to first mount the tire with a tube and let that sit overnight at pressure to get the tape seated and sealed really well on the rim before going tubeless
Good news: You’re back! Bad news: So are we! ;-) 4:43 put a tyre with a clean inner tube on. The latter will apply sweets pressure everywhere without you sweating. 5:26 have Loctite 222 around? Or nail polish? A drop will prevent loosening, too! 6:30 (old) tubeless milk is a good enough sliding-gliding agent, imho.
I have many punctures but I can always get back up on the ride. Sometimes I do have to use my little pump. My most recent tire removal had 4x 'bacon' bits due to really big holes done on the road, and I put that same tire back on. So far in the last 7 years on my road/commuter, I have never had to declare defeat and put a tube in. Most of the punctures I don't even notice till later when I inspect. When I had to go to a different wheel because I got hit by a car, I put 'bomb proof tyre on. Had a flat right away. There you go.
Thanks for the tip on the cheaper tape. I’ll try it. Proper tubeless tape is so expensive. I’ve been using gorilla tape which seals brilliantly but is a nightmare to remove. Plus I’ve had the gorilla tape adhesive literally glue the tyre to the rim making tyre removal difficult. Ride safe.
i havent read all the comments here but one thing i realize why tapes are leaking especially when riding in wet instances…some rims have holes on the carbon fairing, like Bontrager’s wheels…i found out water get’s inside these holes and it goes back to the internal rim thru the spoke holes, thereby your tape lose adhesion to the rim bed, and air escapes by this way
I like to press on the area of the tire where it's not wanting to seat and pump with the other hand, other than that I never had any issues setting it up.
When you said "If you are happy with your clinchers..." I heard "If you are happy with your clean shirts" and I thought that was also a valid argument with spraying sealant.
I'm not a weight weenie, so love my 5000TL's. Only one flat that wouldn't seal in 10,000+ miles of riding them, great and predictable grip, and long life. First I'm hearing of a "5000TR", and I'm intrigued, though "race" components usually mean you compromise in other areas like life or puncture resistance. I guess we will see!
Hahaha 😂, I just finished swapping tubeless tires and unfortunately had to replace rim tape on front rim. I'd say the worse part is the smell 🤢. I'm no rocking Panaracer GK + tan sidewall
I have gradually switched all my wheel sets to tubeless. Overall I feel it’s better for the reason you describe, but a few things have happened that have shaken my confidence, eg. Tyre refusing to inflate etc. I have one wheel that holds pressure fine but is very difficult to inflate with a track pump… pressure whacks up to 160psi+ but minimal goes into the tyre… you’ve got me thinking that is the valve core now….
I'm pretty happy with latex inner tubes but it's a bit of a ballache having to pump them up every other day or basically before I ride. That said, I can't afford new wheels at the moment anyway and mine are bog standard and not tubeless ready. Take it easy, ride safe! 👍😁
I used to set up GP 5000 TL, managed to punch a hole in a solid Mavic rim while installing cause of tire density (using 3-pair of hands), next day caught a cut with by a piece of glass, switched to Mavic Yksion Pro UST II.
I heat the rim tape with a hair dryer a little as I apply it to give it a bubble free smooth application. Also I’ve developed a method of dumping the latex into the tire prior to seating all the way without loosing a single drop. Some latex has snow in it and this method is the only way to get it inside the tire. Another tip is to weigh the tire before and after you install the latex so you know when to replenish. If I get a chance I’ll do a video on putting the latex in and send it to you.
I am with you. I've been running tubeless in my road and gravel bikes for about three years now and have not had one problem. I am having a wheel rebuilt because I was stupid and damaged a rim. (Still held air fine.) So, I put a tube in an older wheel because I didn't want to go to the trouble an mess of setting it up just to have to take the tire off a week later. On my first freaking ride with a tube in three years, I get a slow leak. So, I said screw it and set it up tubeless that night since I'm going to have to ride it at least a couple of more times until I get my other wheel back. Nearly every time I change my tires out, I spot at least one or two spots which sealed up and I never even knew it.
7:58 in my experience, I have to always put the beads in the center of the rim and that's the only way I can pump manually (mini or standing) 11:14 you can also dip the core in sealant remover liquid. muc-off has something for that for example
Great tips and pretty much all the things I have been doing with Tubeless. WRT to tires and sealing properties, the one I have had the most issues with is the Schwalbe TT EVO. They are very light but for some reason can not get it to seat the second time around. Feels like the tire is too soft .
Just got a set of conti 5000 tubeless on carbon bontrager wheels, tlr. Biggest issue was getting tire on the rim. First, took 2 people and sweat. Second, special tire tool 2 people, bike shop service tech swearing. That tire was so tight it sealed without sealant.😁 32 mm of fast rolling goodness.
I almost had no punctures using continental gp for tubes for my road bike. Recently I started commute with a recumbent and tried tubeless with 20” 28mm front and 26” 28mm. It’s really nice with the greater comfort with tubeless because you can’t deflect bumps with your body as easy with the recumbent as on the road bike. Maybe I had bad luck but I had pretty many punctures with these. I think it’s only Schwalbe pro one that makes for these sizes. And the volume is small so the pressure drops when self sealing small holes I think? Among of the many mistakes I make the front tyre was a little too easy get on and of the rim so when i got a hole on the front in a curve the front tire deflated quickly and detached at one side of the rim and I crashed pretty bad. I’m keeping the tube on the front at least until I can get a tighter fit with rim and tire. I’ll see if I can go tubeless on the road bike with fewer mistakes.
Another thing worth mentioning is that tubeless will work gradually worse the higher pressure and narrower tires you have. With high pressures (that comes with narrow tires) the sealant has more trouble sealing a puncture. Fitting narrow tubeless tires are also generally harder than wider. If you have a modern road bike you are probably running 28 or ever 30 or 32, but if you are old-school and run 25 mm (I do) which requires a bit higher pressure I think tubeless is not really that suitable. I use tubeless on my gravel bike, and latex tubes on my road bikes. I'm sure that eventually tubeless will take over on road too, but then 28 will probably be the narrowest tire you can (normally) get. I did use Mavic 25 mm tubeless for a while, but now I run those wheels with regular tires and latex tubes, it just wasn't worth it for me. It also depends on where you ride. With road bikes in my riding conditions punctures are rare, regardless if you have tubes or not. If you live in a place that have thorns laying all over the street a certain time of year, then sure, tubeless could be worth it, but you should probably at least run a 28... For gravel and MTB puncturing the tire is generally more common, and the pressure is also lower so the tubeless case becomes much stronger.
I just switched back to tubes after a couple of months with a tubeless. And to be honest, I hate the tubeless at all… (so much mess, and I had to check the bars many more times) but! I am a traditional daily rider with my gravel, I do not race etc. just traditional, romantic, slow trips with the bags on my bike through forests, fields etc. 😂
My latest carbon wheel set 2021 Roval CLX rapid are no longer tubeless compatible. Specialized/Roval seem to be moving away from it on its lighter weight road wheels. Let me tell you its been a pleasure to not deal with tubeless.
There is a reason for GP5000TL to be heavier actually. I've been using both it and Schwalbe pro one for the last 3 years or so (used around 10-12 sets of tyres for 50-60k km in total). GP5000TL in my case lasts for 5-6k km and I had punchures once in 10-15k (some tires were worn to the cord before getting a single punchure). Pro one lasts for 3-4k km and gets punchure once in 2-5k km. By punchure I mean when I can actually see the sealant comming off. So GP5000TL is by far more punchure resistant and durable, but you have weight penalty for that.
my biggest lesson so far has been to really make sure that both beads are completely inside the center channel. If they are not, it is basically impossible to inflate them without a compressor.
I now use light tire inserts, which are about as light if not lighter as tubeless milk, the air holds for a few days, enough for a ride. in case of a flat i can ride home on the inserts
just this weekend transformed my trekking bike to tubeless (😁bought all the beginners' stuff including a small compressor (i live in a small appartement so it's good the compressor always just runs 30 seconds and lasts then for about 4 times filling the tyre)). and it feels like it hovers over the roads. i now see i made a mistake with the tape. i bought schwalbe tape but 21mm (have a 22mm bed). but with two layers it worked.
Just remember all sealants arent the same. Cracked a rib because of such a hot summer the sealant had dried up and the bead of the tyre burped when turning right. The Orange sealant is the best but a little difficult to get hold of. Also if you get sealant on the frame... wipe it off before it dries. Terrible pain getting that stuff off your wonderful paint job. So best to change your sealant every 6 months
Great video. I started riding tubeless this season on GP5000TL, 😂 but I like them on my Hyper 50. I find that my setup loses air so next time I re-install the tires I will try some of your tricks. I fill to 80psi and it drops to 60 the next day, was wondering if this is typical but from your video It appears its not.
Totally agree with you on the 5000 tl :D but i got them despite of that. i ordered a pair right at launch and didn`t had any idee of the actual wheight. Turned out to be the most puncture resistant of all i owned (Schwalbe, Vittoria, Panaracer) Go get you a pair of Veloflex corsa race tlr: 223g in 25mm! And you can get a tanned wall version :) I use them for racing on arc 62mm wheels. Unfortunately i lost about 15-20psi on every ride due to punctures..
Have you also tried the Orange Seal Endurance yet? Bought it because they recommend it for road tires and the regular stuff for mtb. But now i see you using the regular stuff for roadies ;)
Nope, only used regular orange. From what I've read, Endurance last longer but doesn’t seal as good. No idea if that true or not, but I have no complaint with the regular orange seal.
@@ridesofjapan how often do you refresh regular orange? I've just started using it this season, and to me it seems to stay fresh much longer than advertised (so I see no reason to use endurance), but I suppose it depends on a lot of factors, climate etc. My bike has been standing in a cool garage for way too much time this season, that may have helped...
Years ago you had me convinced my life would be better with a Eastern EC90 cranks - unfortunately they were much trouble and died at 11,500k. Now I'm older and wiser, watching this video just looks like tubeless is way too much of a muck around. Tubalito tubes are a lighter option. Still love all your videos 🙂
For future reference, never watch my videos thinking it will make your life better 😅 My Easton crank have crossed the 30,000 mark by now (I think) and still going strong. Sorry to hear you had problems with yours.
I always add more sealant after the tire is initially seated and gaps are sealed by the sealant. I rather have more than less sealant in the tire. Also I would double tape the rim for a better seal.
I use tubeless since the early 2000 on my MTB 100% for it on a higher volume tire but on a 25-28c tire it's just shit in every imaginable way. Heavy, sealant want handle the pressure, impossible if you want to switch the front tire to the rear. I currently use pirellis and tubolitos 9000km in no issues.
Light Bicycle offers whole-less rims for tubeless setups, eliminating the need for tape and the possibility of the tape failing over time. The only hole on the inside of the rim is for the valve stem. I'm sure this makes building the wheel a nightmare, but that's why I let them build my wheels for me.
Recently had a tubeless tire blow off the rim entirely. 38 mm Compass tire on Hunt carbon rims at just 40 psi. It wasn’t seated correctly, but that was not apparent at the time. Sealant everywhere, including on brake rotor and pads. A big f’ing mess. Ruined my pants too.
In my pre-tubeless cheap weight weenie era, I would use 3M’s fiberglass reinforced strapping tape as a rim strip which worked quite well but was very very thin…not an issue as I was using inner tubes sometimes latex. It always worked. But here in these modern times experiencing that tubeless tapes generally deflect into the spoke holes of a rim w a mounted under pressure I am thinking once again of applying a first layer of that strapping tape prior to actually putting on one layer maybe two of the 8898 that you’ve recommended, thoughts considerations? Have you ever done this before? maybe you’re doing it now? Or never will! Thanks for all the fun
![ILLSLICK - KILLSHOT REMIX [FULL VERSION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RIK8RrqIAzE/mqdefault.jpg)
This was suppose to be the New-frame-day video, but have been battling with customs and finally won, so while it is a bit late, it will land this week, and I will try and make and release that video a bit faster the the current rate of videos. Until then, lets tape some wheels!
Make sure to keep those tires rotated too 😁😂
@Click Bait I've seen someone brushing the beads with a little of the same sealant you use in the tyre, don't know if it actually works, but it has sense that it might help
Another tip: instead of poking a hole where the valve stem goes, try heating the tip of a steel wire or something, maybe an old spoke perhaps, untill it is red hot and then poke the hole. This way there is almost no chance of tearing the tape once you push the valve stem through 👌🏾
I can confirm that this works well
Good tip! A spoke would work just fine, but I took an old screwdriver and ground it down to a point on a bench grinder. It's one of my favorite tools for bike work/loads of other odd jobs. You can certainly buy something like this, but I've inherited tools from my great grandfather and grandfather, so had a silly amount o flat head screwdrivers, so just chose one and ground it to a point.
Why is that ?
A tubeless convert here! Three years now and zero punctures! For me, this is unprecedented. Prior to this, I'd always ridden "speedy" tyres, e.g. Michelin Pro4 SC, Michelin Power, Panaracer Race A Evo, etc. (but never TT tyres though), and I always had to fix punctures 2-5 times per year. Zero fixes in 3 years is just… blessing from the heaven. Since switching to tubeless, I've seen quite a few times some hardened slimy residue on my tyres after a ride. Must have been a puncture that I didn't even realise. All hail tubeless tyres!
P.S. I used to bodge 3M tapes (#2400 no residue version) as tubeless tapes too. While they work perfectly fine like yours, they always came off if I remove the tyres. Since setting up tubeless is already a hassle as is, compressor and all, I didn't want to redo the tape every time. Because of that, I'm now using Schwalbe tubeless tape. While it is the most expensive strip of adhesive I've ever bought, it sure does its job superbly without peeling/sliding off when tyres are removed. Use quality stuff, tape only once, ride forever.
Are you now riding TT tyres?
@@cccpkingu Nope. Vittoria Corsa Graphene 2.0 Tubeless. They might roll off the tongue horrendously, but they roll on the road perfectly.
I'm on my 2nd season on road tubeless, with zero problems.
I've had one puncture that didn't seal properly, but that was on an old worn tyre with sealant that had almost completely dried out.
I also use Corsa graphene 2.0 by recommendations from my wheel builder. Fast and durable.
One tip i found useful is if you struggle to get the tire to hold the air on initial pumping, try hanging the rim on something so that its off the ground and try pumping it up. I found that when on the ground the weight of the rim crushes the deflated tire and have greater chance of leaks. Cheers!
or you can put it in your upside down bike?
One thing you missed is always tape in the direction of travel at the top of the rim when installed. ive had times when the tire shifted on the rim under heavy braking and pick the tape up and roll it off.
Yes, yes, yes! You not only convey important info but also do it in a hilarious manner 🤣. Love the content and the humor.
I read a Rene Herse (Compass) blog that said to never use a compressor because if the tires don't seat with a regular pump they are too loose and may come off. They recommended adding a layer of tape till a regular pump seats the tire.
Has made life much easier/safer and I love tubeless.
That's not necessarily true, as the tire bead simply hasn't been properly seated and may very well be a tight fit once it makes it over the bead lip. Adding more layers of tape may aid seating and inflation with a track pump, but it in no way raises the chances of the tire staying on the rim once inflated to riding pressure. More layers of tape also has its downsides, including the tape deforming after tire removal since the tape adhesive doesn't work very well on its own backing, which is, of course, by design. Getting if off the roll in the first place would be a nightmare otherwise.
A variety of factors come into play that determine how stable a tubeless tire setup is, and the ones I've found to make a huge difference are whether the rim is hookless or not, with hookless rims being far more likely to allow a tire to blow off the rim for fairly obvious reasons, and the robustness of the casing, which determines, of course, how stretchy and pliable the overall tire is.
I found out the hard way when I ironically had a pair of Compass tires blow off their (hookless) rims despite being inflated to well under the maximum PSI indicated on the sidewall, which was disappointing but somewhat understandable given that they're among the most supple (i.e. stretchy) on the market. In the end, the only safe way to run them was with tubes.
The fact about adding more tape is soo true,
or simply replacing old tape with new when changing to a new tyre!!
Fun fact: When I bought my new mountainbike, I rode around two weeks without any sealant in the tires, not loosing any air. Now I know you have to put the sealant in yourself :D
Haha, I actually road the Original Shimano C24 tubeless with IRC tires without sealant for 9months back in the day... Actually miss that Wheelset
Happened to me too..
First, excellent title! (because that's how we find these vids in our moments of need!) and, secondly, I can't belive you're the first person to ever really hone in on the critical difference an extra layer of rim tape can make......! I've watched "too many" tubeless install and troubleshooting vids to count as a reticent newbie to the tubeless world (and I'm not enthusiatic about in general either for all the same reasons as anyone else), and not one said "if 1 layer of tape doesn't work - try 2 and it will". I just bought this beautiful new Blackburn Track Pump for my forray into the tubeless world and when I dumped the stored chamber of air into my 38mm Panaracer SK's with only 1 layer of stan's tape - nada - zip - zero - pffffffffttttttttttttttt (I got a cool breeze from all the escapinbg air after all my pumping work - that's all). If I had not just watched your vid I would have been really confused and upset (again lol). But thanks to this materpiece of video magic content I remained mostly calm and added a 2nd layer (without spilling any of my lovely new SILCA sealant too - really proud of that) and tried again: ping.......ping PING! Rested tire on its side overnoght - rock solid this AM as advertised. Thank You Mr. Rides of Japan - THANK YOU!
Happy to hear it help mate! 🤙
Just a quick thank you. I’ve been wanting to go tubeless for a while and watching this gave me the confidence to at least buy the parts. This morning I installed two tyres, quickly and easily using this method. Cheers.
so happy to hear, 1) dorks can be improved in the tubeless area, 2) material has been improved overall, 3) tape and the bed/tyre interface is paramount, making me ❤️ my 1300g 45mm Farsports Feder disc non-holed-rim-bed wheels even more (0 punctures but only 4months of use)
Best simple affordable tubeless setting up video ever.
Yes, mounting tubeless tires has become much easier than it used to be.
I had bought an "air booster" a few years ago- which I do not need anymore.
If you have proper tools it’s actually less work, not more than clincher..
Really great trip through the tubeless install process. Thank you for sharing your time tested ways to get the job done. And thank you for the humor that comes with all your videos!
I would also say : read the instructions from the tyres manufacturer ! For example : in order to avoid weeping/leaky sidewalls, WTB strongly suggest to brush the inside of the tyre with sealant before mounting the tyres and it actually works like a charm !
I'll have to try that if I ever put my WTBs back on a rim. I bought a set this year and they leaked out the sidewall like a sieve. I had to add sealant 3 times before they would hold. I was so frustrated with them I took them off and hung them up in the garage for the time being.
@@teddgram Ditto. But for me, after finally getting them on, I soon took them and sold them. They were v.disappointing. Far too leaky and fragile. Went back to some my reliable Hutchinson Fusion 5s.
@Xavier - Brush on and let the sealant dry before an install? Interesting. If so, I may condition my spare tyres.
While I'm sure this works at least if you use Orange Seal, I would argue that weeping sidewalls is a Bad Tire(tm). It's just insane to not make a tubeless tire reasonably air tight. Why don't they add the required latex layer in the factory? I think we've already had enough of bad tubeless products that makes tubeless a mess, and I hope weeping sidewalls is soon a thing of the past.
@@anderstorger3211 I had weeping with Orange Seal on brand new WTB tubeless tires.
A handy trick I learnt recently was to use a tyre lever to pop the bead into place (just on one side) by the valve and this helps a lot with getting that initial inflation going. Only needs to be a few cm's either side of the valve :)
Having had multiple nightmares in the past with tubeless (impossible to seat on a track pump) and having a set to fit this week this vid was just what I needed. Panaracer gravelking on a Hunt Disc. Went with 22mm tape on an Erto17 rim. The perfect amount of overlap on the sidewalls meant the tyre is so much tighter on first seat. Seated, sealed and done with not a drop spilled, still sat here in disbelief! GAME CHANGER 👍
try to insall a tube before adding sealant. pump it up and take it out again. one side will stay seated.
@@dieserbenutzernameistvielzulan honestly. I had tried overnighting with tubes and whilst it helps a little, Get the tape right and you need zero skill for the rest. Proper simple.
Honestly your videos helped me catch the tubeless bug. 😅 Swapped to tubeless on my gravel and I love it. This video came at the perfect time, now just waiting on new rims for my road bike to finish converting.
Washing my bike after my last duathlon, I saw the sealant on my seat tube. I found the sealed puncture on the rear. I run corsa speeds, I love that you can run a ridiculously thin tire and have that puncture protection. I’m a fan of the silica tape, others didn’t stick that well for me. Plus I found it to weigh 1g less, win. I am also using finish line sealant (no dried out residue). But you need a lot more so more weight, loss.
Thanks for the advice. So, the answer is always 'more tape!' and 'more sealant'.
Never thought to re-tape every time. Good idea
Something that I see tubeless experts doing but that rarely gets communicated to noobs:
Make sure the tape is taut and creates a high, solid bridge across the centre channel. If you run your hands along and force it in afterwards you're shooting yourself in the foot. A nice high sturdy centre channel creates a snug, airtight fit against the bead when you try and seat it and makes for super easy inflation that doesn't need a compressor or even a floor pump sometimes.
Another tip is if you have rims that are just not working for you no matter what then try Bontrager tubeless rim strips. These solid plastic strips create a high, perfect and durable tubeless platform including bead shelves for extra retention. While they're not the lightest solution they will get any rim seating and holding beautifully (maybe even some non tubeless rims but you didn't hear that from me)
Well I'm so glad this is not another conversion therapy video. Seen so many of those. Happy to come out as a rim-braking-inner-tube roadie.
Wonderful Video! My first road tubeless adventure was the heavy GP5000 TL which was horrible to mount, jumped off the rim when losing pressure and turned me back to tubes. This summer i gave it a second shot this time on my gravelbike with the Veloflex Corsa EVO TLR 25mm at about 230g and it was a miracle. Easy like you showed it. Once again, the tape had a problem above 3 bar and then the often reused valve failed at it‘s square foot.
I used that DT Swiss tape a few years ago because it was the only tape my LBS had at the time. I like it a lot better than the cheap blue tape by far. I've had the blue tape fail (came undone, leaked, etc) a few times. It is more expensive, but as the saying goes "cry once".
Thank you for this - a great overview with some excellent points. Especially the one about the tyre remaining on the rim when deflated - a good way a confirming a safer tyre/combo. My wheels came fitted with tape, so I've just stuck to the same width. Although unlike yours, its 2mm smaller that the internal rim width!
One other thing, check your wheel spec, and use a tyre that is wide enough! Most wheels specify a minimum, of say 25 mm. Some like Token G33, recommend a 30mm minimum tyre, since they have a internal width of +25mm.
Disregard this at your peril.
This video made setting up my tubeless tires so much easier. Tusen tack!
That was an excellent tutorial. I haven't made the plunge yet because I find tubes are working great for me and I'm not a weight weeny. Never heard of bead wax before and I could have used it in the past for tight clinchers.
I only use my bike to go to the store mostly, but I live in FL where we have tons of sand-spurs everywhere which managed to give me regular flats. Once I went tubeless that completely stopped. I also am using Orange seal. The one time I had a puncture by something besides a sand-spur (a screw) it plugged the hole once I took it out after just one revolution. Sprayed me in the face the first time but small price to pay for success. I do not have tubeless rims and using Maxxis Rambler tires 700c x 42. I have to use a 1" tie-down strap wrapped around the whole tire with the spring clamp thing to compress the tire enough for the bead to touch both sides all the way around. To clean off old "Orange" sealer IDK about others, but lacquer thinner and a copper scrub pad makes it fall apart pretty good.
Same experience and learnings here! Square valves is a good tip! Round ones will rotate and get stuck by the sealant which makes them hard to remove.
This video and tips therein (on tape) just saved my sanity. Stort tack!!
Great video!! I've been doing tubeless myself for the past year or two, and while there were plenty of really quick "tubeless how-to" videos out there, there aren't a ton of videos out there that address the subtleties of road tubeless like you did in this one - especially for road tubeless. And I really like the bit addressing how tires can unseat when deflated - I searched far and wide for an answer to that problem (even commented on one of your earlier videos). You're the first person I've seen to address that concern and I think that's really valuable. :)
best videos on the interweb.... Great work and thanks for the smiles
Great tips! Especially about adding a second layer of tape, the horizontal “settling” trick, checking the valve cores, and focusing on the bead staying set. Great video as always.
i needed this 4 days ago ^^ went crazy taping my rims again…
To add to your comment regarding industry standards progressing, I had very similar issues you had in your “what not to do” vid with Schwalbe Pro Ones first gen tire. However their second Evolution version seated much easier and I’ve been able to unseat and reseat successfully within reasonable time and without too much cursing at the sky. Love your content, editing style and humor 👌
Great stuff - especially the tip on which tape to use. I've been taping for years, and am done with electricians tape and Gorilla tape - too many failures. I think the part that is most important is to get the tape into the rim bead and press it down. Most of my tape failures has been when the tape leaves a gap between the bead and main channel, and the tire pulls the tape off when installing or removing. Anyway, thanks.
For the valve cores...i put a dab of oil on the rubber seal and they never gum up.
Tiny drop of oil on the thread of the valve core too, stops the sealant making it hard to turn, no problem at home with all the tools, but a faff when out.
Great tip on bead wax - cheers. I'd given up trying get my old G-Ones to re-seat straight on a new set of wheels, but gave some bead wax a try and they seated first time.
Tjena! My next bike will be tubeless. Want to try it and have the experience. Casual rider so I am choosing "heavier" and more puncture proof tires to avoid punctures. I think I have had 1 puncture that last 3 years *knock on wood*. Thank you for all the awesome tricks to get the best experience with tubeless.
In my shop I (personally) will often let the tape ride up the bead a little too, so even wider. The main problem is cleaning the rim, as I have not found any cleaner that works well... Also I press down on the valve within the rim with my thumb or a tyre lever, to compress the rubber when I tighten the valve nut, this also helps removing the valve.
I have now been running Vittoria Corsa on Velocity A23 on my singlespeed Ciocc commuter for 8 months in thorn infested Arizona with zero punctures. My only issue is that I don't think all sealants are good for road pressures: Stan's does seem to just blow through holes at higher pressure.
I love tubeless. I hate the mess, but it is worth the lack of punctures and the lovely functionality at pressures even as low as 40psi (when I forget to inflate, and yes I weigh around 70kg).
Nice video. Yep, I still hate tubeless. Did 100 miles in almost 100F / 37C yesterday. Mile 90 got a slice that drained enough air fast enough to shoot sealant all over me and bead came off (even though the bead previously had been secured as you demonstrate in the video). So I had the pleasure of muscling a tube into this tubeless setup which is one of the messiest propositions I can think of.
Someone may say, well that is a one-off situation and that the benefits outweigh the negatives. And obviously for some people this is the case. I have a real issue with any type mechanical failure on a bike the is reasonably likely to occur that I can't fix quickly. Tubed setups get more flats for sure, but they take 5 minutes to fix. Tubeless are less frequent but the resolution is highly variable and depends on the rim/tire combo (I can barely get this particular tubeless tire on the rim due to the tight tolerances). I just wanted to offer the alternate view 🤣, rant over.
Your scenario is why I didn't buy a tubeless wheel set so far.
I have Schwalbe Marathons on my road bike. I know, slow and heavy, but the only puncture I had so far was a cut in the sidewall that at least would have been a challenge for the sealant.
Fair point. It does indeed come down to a good tyre/wheel combo. When it's right, you'll thank the preacher for showing you the promised land - but when it's wrong, oh boy, you'll curse the f#cker who lying to you!!
Ehhh, it takes ~15min for patch adhesive to completely cure so flats take a fair bit longer than 5min to patch
@@cjohnson3836 Afaik there are self adhesive patches. I never tried them.
But it would take me much longer than 5 minutes to repair a flat tire because I'm not used to it 😉
@@cjohnson3836 I bring two tubes, swap the tube, and later I patch the offending tube at home at my liesure (if ever). My goal is to ride and reduce time wrenching on the side of the road. I contest it takes 5 minutes.
Your editing is absolutely top notch!
I use 3M 8992 (same as Mavic use), another popular among manfacturers is Tesa 4289. Bike-branded versions of these tapes easily cost 10x the price. Great tip about using a scalpel to narrow down the tape, then there's really no need to buy branded stuff. I have yet to master the technique to lay down the tape. You make it look easy, but I think it's hard, and I usually need to try more than once before I manage to get the tape down without a single crease -- which is extremely important, otherwise air will find its way and you get ghost leaks through the tape out through the spoke nipples or valve hole. Been there done that.
I also would like to mention a syringe of the type the goes all the way into the bottom of the tire. KOM cycling has one, and now Park Tool is coming out with TSI-1. This requires a tubeless valve that has a large opening in the bottom, which all modern ones have but older ones had not (today you may want one that has opening to the side too if to use tire inserts). I very much prefer to insert sealant this way, the least messy, and as an added bonus you can remove tire sealant as well, or just check the status of it by sucking it out using the syringe. You can't have lots of fibers in your sealant though if going through the valve, but for gravel or road I don't think it's worthwhile to have that.
Another reason for it being important that the bead stays on with no air, is that it becomes less risk for a mess when adding sealant, or refilling mid-season.
I have a small bottle to contain compressed air, rather than a compressor. I'd say it's a recommended accessory. A perfectly clean rim and new tire should go on without compressed air, but reseating an old tire (I swap tires for the winter) can be tricky according to my experience. Perhaps adding more rim tape to compensate bead stretch and clean really really carefully would make it work... but I use compressed air in that case.
If one needs tire levers to get on or off the tire, or the bead comes lose - the tubeless system is not well balanced, and it will be a headache to work with. Been there, done that. The old school tubeless systems just had lots and lots of issues. It really has got a lot better, still not perfect though so I think you still can find some tough tire/rim combinations.
Concerning sealant I think orange seal is rather nice for making a system air tight, like a butyl tube almost. With other sealants I have had needed to pump the tires much more often. Orange Seal does have a tendency to clog the valve cores more than others though. More than once I've had a half-clogged core that wouldn't close properly and I'd lose air over night. If you know about it one can live with it though. Make sure to have the valve 12 o'clock when pumping up to minimize sealant that find its way to the valve core. Its sealing performance of punctures I don't know how it compares, but according to reviews I've seen it should be good.
With new tape, I like to first mount the tire with a tube and let that sit overnight at pressure to get the tape seated and sealed really well on the rim before going tubeless
me too
same here
Good one - and I think this helps if the tyre bead is a bit distorted / creased from being folded up in the packaging.
It also helps with getting the tire to conform to the rim.
Good news: You’re back! Bad news: So are we! ;-) 4:43 put a tyre with a clean inner tube on. The latter will apply sweets pressure everywhere without you sweating. 5:26 have Loctite 222 around? Or nail polish? A drop will prevent loosening, too! 6:30 (old) tubeless milk is a good enough sliding-gliding agent, imho.
I have many punctures but I can always get back up on the ride. Sometimes I do have to use my little pump. My most recent tire removal had 4x 'bacon' bits due to really big holes done on the road, and I put that same tire back on. So far in the last 7 years on my road/commuter, I have never had to declare defeat and put a tube in. Most of the punctures I don't even notice till later when I inspect. When I had to go to a different wheel because I got hit by a car, I put 'bomb proof tyre on. Had a flat right away. There you go.
I looked up that new TR tire. It sounds exciting.
Thanks for the tip on the cheaper tape. I’ll try it. Proper tubeless tape is so expensive. I’ve been using gorilla tape which seals brilliantly but is a nightmare to remove. Plus I’ve had the gorilla tape adhesive literally glue the tyre to the rim making tyre removal difficult. Ride safe.
Love your content! I've missed your regular uploading.
Just stumbled across your channel and it's excellent ! Subscribed & Liked. Helpful tips, views and insights Thanks.
Lots of great tips and tricks in there - thanks for the content.
Thanks for watching 🙏
Many thanks for this, I'm just about to change tubeless tyres for the first time and I think this video will help me a lot.
You got this! 👍
Good video. Also clean out your valve stem, with core removed, when switching tires as sealant build up over time will inhibit air flow.
In my opinion, a must have for any tubeless user are the Fillmore valves. Best invention ever, you will never go back to presta valves again.
i havent read all the comments here but one thing i realize why tapes are leaking especially when riding in wet instances…some rims have holes on the carbon fairing, like Bontrager’s wheels…i found out water get’s inside these holes and it goes back to the internal rim thru the spoke holes, thereby your tape lose adhesion to the rim bed, and air escapes by this way
I like to press on the area of the tire where it's not wanting to seat and pump with the other hand, other than that I never had any issues setting it up.
When you said "If you are happy with your clinchers..." I heard "If you are happy with your clean shirts" and I thought that was also a valid argument with spraying sealant.
I'm not a weight weenie, so love my 5000TL's. Only one flat that wouldn't seal in 10,000+ miles of riding them, great and predictable grip, and long life. First I'm hearing of a "5000TR", and I'm intrigued, though "race" components usually mean you compromise in other areas like life or puncture resistance. I guess we will see!
Great video, you crack me up, more videos please
Hahaha 😂, I just finished swapping tubeless tires and unfortunately had to replace rim tape on front rim. I'd say the worse part is the smell 🤢.
I'm no rocking Panaracer GK + tan sidewall
I have gradually switched all my wheel sets to tubeless. Overall I feel it’s better for the reason you describe, but a few things have happened that have shaken my confidence, eg. Tyre refusing to inflate etc. I have one wheel that holds pressure fine but is very difficult to inflate with a track pump… pressure whacks up to 160psi+ but minimal goes into the tyre… you’ve got me thinking that is the valve core now….
If its not the pump reading faulty, then it must be sticky valve core!
Or just a crap valve altogether!!
I sealed the valve stem with a small amount of gasket maker to stop leaks. It always worked.
I'm pretty happy with latex inner tubes but it's a bit of a ballache having to pump them up every other day or basically before I ride. That said, I can't afford new wheels at the moment anyway and mine are bog standard and not tubeless ready. Take it easy, ride safe! 👍😁
I know they're heavy, but I like the Bontrager TLR rim strip. It just pops on and into place.
I used to set up GP 5000 TL, managed to punch a hole in a solid Mavic rim while installing cause of tire density (using 3-pair of hands), next day caught a cut with by a piece of glass, switched to Mavic Yksion Pro UST II.
I heat the rim tape with a hair dryer a little as I apply it to give it a bubble free smooth application. Also I’ve developed a method of dumping the latex into the tire prior to seating all the way without loosing a single drop. Some latex has snow in it and this method is the only way to get it inside the tire. Another tip is to weigh the tire before and after you install the latex so you know when to replenish. If I get a chance I’ll do a video on putting the latex in and send it to you.
I am with you. I've been running tubeless in my road and gravel bikes for about three years now and have not had one problem. I am having a wheel rebuilt because I was stupid and damaged a rim. (Still held air fine.) So, I put a tube in an older wheel because I didn't want to go to the trouble an mess of setting it up just to have to take the tire off a week later. On my first freaking ride with a tube in three years, I get a slow leak. So, I said screw it and set it up tubeless that night since I'm going to have to ride it at least a couple of more times until I get my other wheel back. Nearly every time I change my tires out, I spot at least one or two spots which sealed up and I never even knew it.
7:58 in my experience, I have to always put the beads in the center of the rim and that's the only way I can pump manually (mini or standing)
11:14 you can also dip the core in sealant remover liquid. muc-off has something for that for example
Great tips and pretty much all the things I have been doing with Tubeless. WRT to tires and sealing properties, the one I have had the most issues with is the Schwalbe TT EVO. They are very light but for some reason can not get it to seat the second time around. Feels like the tire is too soft .
Just got a set of conti 5000 tubeless on carbon bontrager wheels, tlr. Biggest issue was getting tire on the rim. First, took 2 people and sweat. Second, special tire tool 2 people, bike shop service tech swearing.
That tire was so tight it sealed without sealant.😁 32 mm of fast rolling goodness.
I almost had no punctures using continental gp for tubes for my road bike. Recently I started commute with a recumbent and tried tubeless with 20” 28mm front and 26” 28mm. It’s really nice with the greater comfort with tubeless because you can’t deflect bumps with your body as easy with the recumbent as on the road bike. Maybe I had bad luck but I had pretty many punctures with these. I think it’s only Schwalbe pro one that makes for these sizes. And the volume is small so the pressure drops when self sealing small holes I think? Among of the many mistakes I make the front tyre was a little too easy get on and of the rim so when i got a hole on the front in a curve the front tire deflated quickly and detached at one side of the rim and I crashed pretty bad. I’m keeping the tube on the front at least until I can get a tighter fit with rim and tire.
I’ll see if I can go tubeless on the road bike with fewer mistakes.
Another thing worth mentioning is that tubeless will work gradually worse the higher pressure and narrower tires you have. With high pressures (that comes with narrow tires) the sealant has more trouble sealing a puncture. Fitting narrow tubeless tires are also generally harder than wider. If you have a modern road bike you are probably running 28 or ever 30 or 32, but if you are old-school and run 25 mm (I do) which requires a bit higher pressure I think tubeless is not really that suitable. I use tubeless on my gravel bike, and latex tubes on my road bikes. I'm sure that eventually tubeless will take over on road too, but then 28 will probably be the narrowest tire you can (normally) get. I did use Mavic 25 mm tubeless for a while, but now I run those wheels with regular tires and latex tubes, it just wasn't worth it for me.
It also depends on where you ride. With road bikes in my riding conditions punctures are rare, regardless if you have tubes or not. If you live in a place that have thorns laying all over the street a certain time of year, then sure, tubeless could be worth it, but you should probably at least run a 28...
For gravel and MTB puncturing the tire is generally more common, and the pressure is also lower so the tubeless case becomes much stronger.
I just switched back to tubes after a couple of months with a tubeless. And to be honest, I hate the tubeless at all… (so much mess, and I had to check the bars many more times) but! I am a traditional daily rider with my gravel, I do not race etc. just traditional, romantic, slow trips with the bags on my bike through forests, fields etc. 😂
You should try the muc off sealant, it smells really good, it's washable with water when it goes dry and it's by far the best sealant I've tried.
You really do take one for the team. Much appreciated. And wonderful editing. Thanks a lot. Can't wait to join team tubeless. Or wait... :-)
My latest carbon wheel set 2021 Roval CLX rapid are no longer tubeless compatible. Specialized/Roval seem to be moving away from it on its lighter weight road wheels. Let me tell you its been a pleasure to not deal with tubeless.
Nice work as always 👌👏👏
There is a reason for GP5000TL to be heavier actually. I've been using both it and Schwalbe pro one for the last 3 years or so (used around 10-12 sets of tyres for 50-60k km in total).
GP5000TL in my case lasts for 5-6k km and I had punchures once in 10-15k (some tires were worn to the cord before getting a single punchure).
Pro one lasts for 3-4k km and gets punchure once in 2-5k km.
By punchure I mean when I can actually see the sealant comming off.
So GP5000TL is by far more punchure resistant and durable, but you have weight penalty for that.
my biggest lesson so far has been to really make sure that both beads are completely inside the center channel. If they are not, it is basically impossible to inflate them without a compressor.
I now use light tire inserts, which are about as light if not lighter as tubeless milk, the air holds for a few days, enough for a ride. in case of a flat i can ride home on the inserts
All good points. A tight fitting tire is good in my opinion... for tubeless that is.
just this weekend transformed my trekking bike to tubeless (😁bought all the beginners' stuff including a small compressor (i live in a small appartement so it's good the compressor always just runs 30 seconds and lasts then for about 4 times filling the tyre)). and it feels like it hovers over the roads. i now see i made a mistake with the tape. i bought schwalbe tape but 21mm (have a 22mm bed). but with two layers it worked.
Tape,tape more tape - some wax, sealant. yeah still not sold just yet on tubeless, but I know lot's that do love it. GP5000's with Tubolito's for me.
Just remember all sealants arent the same. Cracked a rib because of such a hot summer the sealant had dried up and the bead of the tyre burped when turning right. The Orange sealant is the best but a little difficult to get hold of. Also if you get sealant on the frame... wipe it off before it dries. Terrible pain getting that stuff off your wonderful paint job. So best to change your sealant every 6 months
LOL you are fun, ty for another good video my friend
Top tips - thanks!
That's me with TEFL tape and naughty bottom brackets.
😂
Great video. I started riding tubeless this season on GP5000TL, 😂 but I like them on my Hyper 50. I find that my setup loses air so next time I re-install the tires I will try some of your tricks. I fill to 80psi and it drops to 60 the next day, was wondering if this is typical but from your video It appears its not.
To be fair, 60psi is probably the max I ever put in a tire ;)
Cheers!
Totally agree with you on the 5000 tl :D but i got them despite of that. i ordered a pair right at launch and didn`t had any idee of the actual wheight. Turned out to be the most puncture resistant of all i owned (Schwalbe, Vittoria, Panaracer)
Go get you a pair of Veloflex corsa race tlr: 223g in 25mm! And you can get a tanned wall version :) I use them for racing on arc 62mm wheels. Unfortunately i lost about 15-20psi on every ride due to punctures..
Have you also tried the Orange Seal Endurance yet? Bought it because they recommend it for road tires and the regular stuff for mtb. But now i see you using the regular stuff for roadies ;)
Nope, only used regular orange. From what I've read, Endurance last longer but doesn’t seal as good. No idea if that true or not, but I have no complaint with the regular orange seal.
@@ridesofjapan how often do you refresh regular orange? I've just started using it this season, and to me it seems to stay fresh much longer than advertised (so I see no reason to use endurance), but I suppose it depends on a lot of factors, climate etc. My bike has been standing in a cool garage for way too much time this season, that may have helped...
Years ago you had me convinced my life would be better with a Eastern EC90 cranks - unfortunately they were much trouble and died at 11,500k. Now I'm older and wiser, watching this video just looks like tubeless is way too much of a muck around. Tubalito tubes are a lighter option. Still love all your videos 🙂
For future reference, never watch my videos thinking it will make your life better 😅
My Easton crank have crossed the 30,000 mark by now (I think) and still going strong. Sorry to hear you had problems with yours.
I always add more sealant after the tire is initially seated and gaps are sealed by the sealant. I rather have more than less sealant in the tire. Also I would double tape the rim for a better seal.
Brilliant…ya vids always make me smile:)
😁🙏
I use tubeless since the early 2000 on my MTB 100% for it on a higher volume tire but on a 25-28c tire it's just shit in every imaginable way. Heavy, sealant want handle the pressure, impossible if you want to switch the front tire to the rear. I currently use pirellis and tubolitos 9000km in no issues.
Light Bicycle offers whole-less rims for tubeless setups, eliminating the need for tape and the possibility of the tape failing over time. The only hole on the inside of the rim is for the valve stem. I'm sure this makes building the wheel a nightmare, but that's why I let them build my wheels for me.
Recently had a tubeless tire blow off the rim entirely. 38 mm Compass tire on Hunt carbon rims at just 40 psi. It wasn’t seated correctly, but that was not apparent at the time. Sealant everywhere, including on brake rotor and pads. A big f’ing mess. Ruined my pants too.
Pedagogic at its best
Suscribed!
In my pre-tubeless cheap weight weenie era, I would use 3M’s fiberglass reinforced strapping tape as a rim strip which worked quite well but was very very thin…not an issue as I was using inner tubes sometimes latex. It always worked. But here in these modern times experiencing that tubeless tapes generally deflect into the spoke holes of a rim w a mounted under pressure I am thinking once again of applying a first layer of that strapping tape prior to actually putting on one layer maybe two of the 8898 that you’ve recommended, thoughts considerations? Have you ever done this before? maybe you’re doing it now? Or never will!
Thanks for all the fun
…and +1 on adding another layer of tape…that is the real deal to have the tyres seal just enough for handpump to work
Lessons learned - new tyres. New tape don't skimp. Life made easy. Air tank a good investment after 20 tries today 💕 a lot fitter now.