You need to take the points plate off and make sure your centrifugal advance weights are advancing at RPM range sometimes they rust to the plate and they don't advance your boat runs like crap 😊😊
Good afternoon, im having a problem with my mercruiser 3.0 with DDIS system. turns off while in the water about 1 hour or so, feels like if you pull the kill switch. i checked my coil, i had no spark and my coil was HOT. once it cools down it turns right on. my RPM tachometer is stuck at 800 rpm, have you ever fixed a boat with this problem?
3:44 When I did not have a multi meter.,I would turn the ignition ON . Turning the distributor the points will spark when they begin to open(disconnect), stop and tighten the distributor. Engine will run,
I have the same motor, yr 1976. The maintence manual says to set the dwell (31-34 degrees), then adjust the timing (6 BTDC). Your video doesnt address dwell. Can you explain dwell and how to set it, and if it should be done?
Most manuals will have u set a gap like 0.030 thou of an inch to get the dwell within an acceptable range. It will alter your timing so best to set that first then do the timing. Dwell is in degrees and the working range is not exact so close enough to run well kind of scenario. Top end timing lights let you set it exactly in degrees but this is really not necessary. Using the gap method works just fine. Just get it close to spec and forget. Dwell just saturates the coil with power and if the book says 31 to 34 degrees trust me anything between 22 to 45 will work almost as well. Points are very forgiving ..
you need to have the wire removed from the distributor in order for it to work with the multimeter, if u leave it connected the coil will join the wires thru the windings - ie the distributor wire must not be connected at all, the points will then basically just be an on / off physical switch which is what you want. If the wire is disconnected then the one tip is touching ground, make sure one tip is on ground and the other on the spring only, perhaps your points are not isolated correctly.. ie they are permanently touching which is not going to work..
@@markus4434 it must be disconnected to use the multimeter method.. u did reconnect it after right? Also, make sure you have 12.5v at the coil + when the key is on, if you dont something is wrong with wiring / ignition switch
then its basically permanently grounded - a problem either where the wire goes thru the body or its touching somewhere where it shouldnt.. do the continuity test with the wire NOT connected to the coil as there is contnuity thru the coil- ie just have the wire not connected at all
@SocalMarineUSA bro thank you soo much for this video I just learned a life long skill because you where willing to take 6 min to make a video. I read comments and I didn't disconnect the ground wire.. thank you so much
first make sure you have 12v at the coil + terminal with key in on position - if not you can temporarily hook a wire from batt + to the coil to test. If you DO have 12v at coil + then you might need to double fold and sand between the points 3-4 times, they corrode up and no spark. Make sure your wires are correct- you can test with only a 12v to coil and the wire from the distributor to the coil - terminal, remove all other wires from coil- if it fires the wires have an issue...
you have to measure from the one tip to the other. the one tip should be insulated form the main body as well. if u always have continuity when the points are apart there is a problem somewhere.. and u will have no spark.
@@SocalMarineUSA Thank you, I thought I was onto something when I searched deeper in the comments about removing the ground from the coil so I did so and there is still continuity. Also my coil only gets 5.8 volts even though I ran the engine perfectly 9 months ago
@@vassilyknigge850 you need to make sure the wire from the distributor is disconnected when u do this test because the coil is kibd of a short circuit... ie have nothing connected to the distributor - and make sure the poitns are opening and closing as the motor turns..
Bad video, I need to know the TDC position Mark three doesn’t do anything because there are more than three marks it would be a good idea to actually show what is on the plate because they are labeled 12,8,4,C,4,6. What position is your timing mark on?
Not really true - the engine will run on all three marks actually, 4 8 and 12 will all fire up and run perfectly.. One would obviously confirm timing with a light, this though will get you running without any issues.. merc manual is prob 4 or 8 - but honestly with sunch an old engine and aworn timing chain 12 will prob equate to 10 or 8 real world on the marks. the last 4 and 6 are insignificant and can be ignored. & thanks for insulting my video effort
You need to take the points plate off and make sure your centrifugal advance weights are advancing at RPM range sometimes they rust to the plate and they don't advance your boat runs like crap 😊😊
Good video man. Working on a 6 cyl inline, but same concept
This is gold. Thank you!
Thanks for the video
Thank you😊
Great info
Good afternoon, im having a problem with my mercruiser 3.0 with DDIS system. turns off while in the water about 1 hour or so, feels like if you pull the kill switch. i checked my coil, i had no spark and my coil was HOT. once it cools down it turns right on. my RPM tachometer is stuck at 800 rpm, have you ever fixed a boat with this problem?
3:44 When I did not have a multi meter.,I would turn the ignition ON . Turning the distributor the points will spark when they begin to open(disconnect), stop and tighten the distributor. Engine will run,
agreed - just dont leave it on, coil will cook (most ppl dont know that) but yes that works indeed :)
Nice video,
How can I turn the motor over to compression stroke, my motor mounts blocking the crank
You can "tick" the motor over with the key, or jump the starter with a screw driver.
You can "tick" the motor over with the key, or jump the starter with a screw driver.
I have the same motor, yr 1976. The maintence manual says to set the dwell (31-34 degrees), then adjust the timing (6 BTDC). Your video doesnt address dwell. Can you explain dwell and how to set it, and if it should be done?
Most manuals will have u set a gap like 0.030 thou of an inch to get the dwell within an acceptable range. It will alter your timing so best to set that first then do the timing. Dwell is in degrees and the working range is not exact so close enough to run well kind of scenario. Top end timing lights let you set it exactly in degrees but this is really not necessary. Using the gap method works just fine. Just get it close to spec and forget. Dwell just saturates the coil with power and if the book says 31 to 34 degrees trust me anything between 22 to 45 will work almost as well. Points are very forgiving ..
A+
I did this test, and the buzzer stayed on even when points closed or open. But I put points in position just ready to spark.
you need to have the wire removed from the distributor in order for it to work with the multimeter, if u leave it connected the coil will join the wires thru the windings - ie the distributor wire must not be connected at all, the points will then basically just be an on / off physical switch which is what you want.
If the wire is disconnected then the one tip is touching ground, make sure one tip is on ground and the other on the spring only, perhaps your points are not isolated correctly.. ie they are permanently touching which is not going to work..
@@SocalMarineUSA yes I had wire disconnected. It is a 170 mer. Not sure if that makes a difference.
@@markus4434 it must be disconnected to use the multimeter method.. u did reconnect it after right? Also, make sure you have 12.5v at the coil + when the key is on, if you dont something is wrong with wiring / ignition switch
What is the exact year make and model of this boat?
The merc 120/140's are all the sames 60s up till the est showed up 80s or 90s maybe.. year and make is irrelevant really.. points are points.
What if it has continuity even when open?
then its basically permanently grounded - a problem either where the wire goes thru the body or its touching somewhere where it shouldnt.. do the continuity test with the wire NOT connected to the coil as there is contnuity thru the coil- ie just have the wire not connected at all
@SocalMarineUSA bro thank you soo much for this video I just learned a life long skill because you where willing to take 6 min to make a video. I read comments and I didn't disconnect the ground wire.. thank you so much
Advise please ...I have the same motor...cranks all proper like...just can't get it to fire up...it just turns over
first make sure you have 12v at the coil + terminal with key in on position - if not you can temporarily hook a wire from batt + to the coil to test. If you DO have 12v at coil + then you might need to double fold and sand between the points 3-4 times, they corrode up and no spark. Make sure your wires are correct- you can test with only a 12v to coil and the wire from the distributor to the coil - terminal, remove all other wires from coil- if it fires the wires have an issue...
I still have continuity when the points are open
you have to measure from the one tip to the other. the one tip should be insulated form the main body as well. if u always have continuity when the points are apart there is a problem somewhere.. and u will have no spark.
@@SocalMarineUSA Thank you, I thought I was onto something when I searched deeper in the comments about removing the ground from the coil so I did so and there is still continuity. Also my coil only gets 5.8 volts even though I ran the engine perfectly 9 months ago
@@vassilyknigge850 you need to make sure the wire from the distributor is disconnected when u do this test because the coil is kibd of a short circuit... ie have nothing connected to the distributor - and make sure the poitns are opening and closing as the motor turns..
He never tightened the plate after setting it.
Bad video, I need to know the TDC position Mark three doesn’t do anything because there are more than three marks it would be a good idea to actually show what is on the plate because they are labeled 12,8,4,C,4,6. What position is your timing mark on?
Not really true - the engine will run on all three marks actually, 4 8 and 12 will all fire up and run perfectly.. One would obviously confirm timing with a light, this though will get you running without any issues.. merc manual is prob 4 or 8 - but honestly with sunch an old engine and aworn timing chain 12 will prob equate to 10 or 8 real world on the marks. the last 4 and 6 are insignificant and can be ignored. & thanks for insulting my video effort