Thank you! I was fighting with the connector for 30 minutes. Yours was the only video showing to press down on the tab to release. Only took 5 minutes after that. Appreciate it.
A tip: When I replaced mine, there is a rubber seal in the connector that presses on the inside of the sensor slot where you plug it in. This is very snug, and when I tried connecting the sensor the rubber would not let the sensor seat properly (it would push the sensor back out). I ended up dipping the tip of a flat head screw driver in WD and adding a very MINIMAL amount to the rubber connector so it would allow the new sensor to slide in and properly connect. Long story short - make sure the sensor actually connects.
As a tip, you should probably put some links in the description of what you bought as well as the attachment you use. If they are Amazon purchased, the affiliate links could make you a little extra cash.
Thank you for watching and the nice feedback. I make these videos to be as helpful as I can be to other people. I presume you're talking about those red locking tabs... TOTAL pain in the butt, but they keep the connections together, so they're obviously are doing their job. :)
Jeep dealer (Lawless in Massachusetts) replaced by entire ABS system and all sensors and charged me over $1000 for a 15 dollar part - and a few weeks later light went on on the dash again and they said "oh- oil from you axle corroded the sensor [oh yeah it corroded in 2 weeks!)) - I will never buy american car again!!!! the cars are crap and their dealers are con men!
Did i your speed reduce I changed my entire rear and bought one from the junkyard and replaced it with the old one and all the sudden my speed is reduced I can only go 25 mph is that due to my speed sensors
Hey DeathScouter - don't know how often you get your messages, but I am having this same problem, and am planning to replace. Was your Jeep "trying" to apply brakes when you were starting out driving? Our is trying to catch, and that light comes on that looks like the Jeep sitting on a hill, which I think you are supposed to push when you are parked on a hill. My other question is......After you were done, did the sensor lights go off on your dash, or do you have to do something to get them to turn off? Also, I saw another video that said you may need to spray wd-40 in that hole to help clean it, but I plan on using air as you did. Thanks for this video, the guy at Auto Zone said it wasn't too difficult and with your video, I think I can do it, and I am NOT great with CAR things, LOL. Let me know about the lights if you will, thank you so much!!
Yes, when the speed sensors are malfunctioning, the computer believes 1 wheel is spinning faster than others and assumes you are in a "spinout, so it tries to apply the brakes and/or cut the throttle to get the vehicle back under control. To your other question - USE AIR or don't. It's probably not that important given the nature of brakes, and brake dust, etc. WD-40 is a lubricant and you have to be careful to not "lube" your brake pads or you're not stopping. I put a little (LITTLE) WD-40 on my front hole for the front speed sensor because it was so hard to get the sensor in/out. Also, the lube went into the front wheel hub, not the actual brake housing, so working on the front is a little different than the rear. There are some situations where the OBDC light goes out when the problem is fixed. TYPICALLY - Chrysler products will require X amount of times (40 in some cases) starting the engine without a problem condition for the CEL (Check Engine Light) to go out. I happened to have cleared my codes manually just to see if the error code came back. If you don't have a code reader to clear your codes, they will clear in time per my above note.
I have 2 codes , c1020 left rear wheel speed sensor circuit and p0501 vehicle speed sensor a range / performance. 2015 Jeep Wrangler unlimited 3.6L. It won’t shift out of first. I changed the rear left speed sensor and didn’t change anything . Any idea?
I'm probably too late now, but who knows? I have almost the same Jeep and almost the same problem. My difference is most of the time, I have only a trouble code. But *sometimes* while I'm driving, the Jeep "taps the brakes", the BRAKE light comes on, brakes are still functional and released like normal, but the transmission won't upshift. It has cured itself without me taking any action, but usually I have to pull over, shut off the engine, and start up again. After that, the BRAKE light is off and all works normally for days or (more often) weeks. The weather looks good tomorrow, so I expect I'll be replacing that sensor anyway.
Why did you cut out the removal (and installation)of the sensor? That’s like the entire purpose of the video lol Curios if I’ll have to remove the sway bar end link or not. I’ll be able to figure it out, but would make for a better instructional video for someone just starting out working on vehicles/Jeeps. You wanna see the entire process
The well the sensor goes into can get rusted and make it a pain in the ass to get the sensor out. Took me a lot of penetrating fluid and muscle to get the goddamn thing out.
My OBDC reader does ABS codes, and I was able to reset it myself to make sure this fixed the problem. If you don't have the ability to clear the codes, they should clear on their own in a short amount of time once the problem no longer exists.
YES IT IS DIFFICULT TO REMOVE BUT ITS BETTER THAN THE ONE ON THE PATRIOT JEEP WHICH FALLS OUT WITH A BIT OF RUST ON THE HAIRPIN CLIP '' HOLDING'' IT ON.....
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Thank you! I was fighting with the connector for 30 minutes. Yours was the only video showing to press down on the tab to release. Only took 5 minutes after that. Appreciate it.
Yu are the FIRST guy I'ce seen d this without taking ff the whle tire and disc brake assembly. Thanks
Only needed on the front.
There’s several guys that I h as he seen do this without taking off the wheel.
A tip: When I replaced mine, there is a rubber seal in the connector that presses on the inside of the sensor slot where you plug it in. This is very snug, and when I tried connecting the sensor the rubber would not let the sensor seat properly (it would push the sensor back out). I ended up dipping the tip of a flat head screw driver in WD and adding a very MINIMAL amount to the rubber connector so it would allow the new sensor to slide in and properly connect. Long story short - make sure the sensor actually connects.
Thanks brother, just replaced mine today with your video for guidance.
Thank you for sharing this video. I was able to make the change without any issues using your video. Thanks.
Thank you for sharing. Going to replace mines this weekend
As a tip, you should probably put some links in the description of what you bought as well as the attachment you use. If they are Amazon purchased, the affiliate links could make you a little extra cash.
This video was incredibly helpful. Thank you.
Very useful video, thanks for sharing!
Great video! Keep up the good work!
Great video, was really helpful. Fun fact for everyone. Those clips are cheesy, be gentle
Thank you for watching and the nice feedback. I make these videos to be as helpful as I can be to other people. I presume you're talking about those red locking tabs... TOTAL pain in the butt, but they keep the connections together, so they're obviously are doing their job. :)
Thank you Paul for your help
Your video saved my ass I just replaced mine in 20 minutes
Wish I had seen this before I had mine fixed at the dealer... $79.62 for the sensor and $277.50 for labor. I'm in the wrong business.
Jeep dealer (Lawless in Massachusetts) replaced by entire ABS system and all sensors and charged me over $1000 for a 15 dollar part - and a few weeks later light went on on the dash again and they said "oh- oil from you axle corroded the sensor [oh yeah it corroded in 2 weeks!)) - I will never buy american car again!!!! the cars are crap and their dealers are con men!
wish i had just done it myself by folloing this video
Canada 🇨🇦 here...atta boy! Thanks
2010 Nitro AWD the sensor was into pieces other side is stuck in there any advice on how to get it out?
Did i your speed reduce I changed my entire rear and bought one from the junkyard and replaced it with the old one and all the sudden my speed is reduced I can only go 25 mph is that due to my speed sensors
I have some problems with my speed contro sistem, is this the sensor involved to this kink of problem? Thanks
Hey DeathScouter - don't know how often you get your messages, but I am having this same problem, and am planning to replace. Was your Jeep "trying" to apply brakes when you were starting out driving? Our is trying to catch, and that light comes on that looks like the Jeep sitting on a hill, which I think you are supposed to push when you are parked on a hill. My other question is......After you were done, did the sensor lights go off on your dash, or do you have to do something to get them to turn off? Also, I saw another video that said you may need to spray wd-40 in that hole to help clean it, but I plan on using air as you did. Thanks for this video, the guy at Auto Zone said it wasn't too difficult and with your video, I think I can do it, and I am NOT great with CAR things, LOL. Let me know about the lights if you will, thank you so much!!
Yes, when the speed sensors are malfunctioning, the computer believes 1 wheel is spinning faster than others and assumes you are in a "spinout, so it tries to apply the brakes and/or cut the throttle to get the vehicle back under control. To your other question - USE AIR or don't. It's probably not that important given the nature of brakes, and brake dust, etc. WD-40 is a lubricant and you have to be careful to not "lube" your brake pads or you're not stopping. I put a little (LITTLE) WD-40 on my front hole for the front speed sensor because it was so hard to get the sensor in/out. Also, the lube went into the front wheel hub, not the actual brake housing, so working on the front is a little different than the rear.
There are some situations where the OBDC light goes out when the problem is fixed. TYPICALLY - Chrysler products will require X amount of times (40 in some cases) starting the engine without a problem condition for the CEL (Check Engine Light) to go out. I happened to have cleared my codes manually just to see if the error code came back. If you don't have a code reader to clear your codes, they will clear in time per my above note.
@@DeathScouter Thank you!
I have 2 codes , c1020 left rear wheel speed sensor circuit and p0501 vehicle speed sensor a range / performance. 2015 Jeep Wrangler unlimited 3.6L. It won’t shift out of first. I changed the rear left speed sensor and didn’t change anything . Any idea?
I'm probably too late now, but who knows? I have almost the same Jeep and almost the same problem. My difference is most of the time, I have only a trouble code. But *sometimes* while I'm driving, the Jeep "taps the brakes", the BRAKE light comes on, brakes are still functional and released like normal, but the transmission won't upshift. It has cured itself without me taking any action, but usually I have to pull over, shut off the engine, and start up again. After that, the BRAKE light is off and all works normally for days or (more often) weeks.
The weather looks good tomorrow, so I expect I'll be replacing that sensor anyway.
Goid video. Replaced my back left but sadly didn’t fix my issue. Same code abs read back left. But guess the issue is I got a jeep.
Same issue, did you ever figure out what the issue was
@@blackhawkcrewerharness going to sensor had rubbed through on part of the frame.
Why did you cut out the removal (and installation)of the sensor?
That’s like the entire purpose of the video lol
Curios if I’ll have to remove the sway bar end link or not.
I’ll be able to figure it out, but would make for a better instructional video for someone just starting out working on vehicles/Jeeps.
You wanna see the entire process
I can’t get the sensor to come out of the wheel?
followed your replacement of sensor the abs light is still on and will not go off
Did the light go off immediately or did you have to drive around for a little
I cleared the code with my code reader, otherwise I suspect it would have stayed lit for the standard "40 starts" that MOPAR builds into the computer.
@@DeathScouter got it thank you
The well the sensor goes into can get rusted and make it a pain in the ass to get the sensor out. Took me a lot of penetrating fluid and muscle to get the goddamn thing out.
Snapped mine off and it fell back into the hub...how bad is that?
Mine broke as well. I can't seem to find a video about that happening. Did you end up finding an answer?
Did you have to take the car to the dealer to erase the code? After you replace the sensor.
My OBDC reader does ABS codes, and I was able to reset it myself to make sure this fixed the problem. If you don't have the ability to clear the codes, they should clear on their own in a short amount of time once the problem no longer exists.
YES IT IS DIFFICULT TO REMOVE BUT ITS BETTER THAN THE ONE ON THE PATRIOT JEEP WHICH FALLS OUT WITH A BIT OF RUST ON THE HAIRPIN CLIP '' HOLDING'' IT ON.....
Are you on isntagram?
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I need to get the scaner obd2 + abs, specially for Cherokee 2010 , my abs light is on . Many thanks
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