Thank you so much for this! Best video out there showing how to replace. Have this to do on my 3.2. Keep them coming and all the best to you both from UK.
Thank you so much for this video. I always learn a lot from you. I have never really thought about the fuel lines in the tunnel and be honest with you kind of Thommy something new that I didn’t know anything about it even think about it. Well, hopefully this makes sense you’re subscriber on the West Coast Los Angeles. Thank you.🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
Another first rate video! I have to do this on my 1987 turbo, but at least the engine and transmission are out of the car, which should help. Are the new Porsche fuel lines resistant to E10? I have had bad luck with cohline lines drying out and leaking with E10.
The polyamide portion of the hose will not be a problem however the rubber flex lines on the ends will still be a problem. My best recommendation would be to find station in your area that sells Ethanol free gas. You can find a number of websites on google that list ethanol free stations. hope that helps Kurt
Some of the fuel lines are available at aftermarket parts suppliers like Partsklassik, Pelican Parts, etc. However, for this job both lines had to come from the dealer as they were not available anywhere else. Kurt
This is a very timely video for me!! I'm about to do the same, but with tight bend radius PTFE lines - I'm worried that it will be like pushing on a wet noodle! I'm going to try fixing a cone shaped caulking nozzle to the front of the line and pulling that through with some string (I already pulled the string through when I removed the old lines. Also, since the PTFE hose is highly flexible (25mm bend radius), I'm planning on running them directly from the pump to the accumulator with no bulkhead connections, in order to reduce the number of fail points. Since it's so flexible, I figure I can fish it out if ever needed. Can you think of any problems with taking this approach?
David, There is so much to unpack here. First, PTFE lines are a great replacement for soft rubber flexible lines, but they come with some conditions. The first and biggest one is choosing the right PTFE material. For fuel lines, you have to use the Conductive PTFE lines. These hoses are impregnated with carbon to make them conductive. This is done to remove the possibility of Static Electricity build-up resulting in a possible spark. You don't want to blow up your car after a fuel line change due to a static spark discharge. The next issue is the connections. PTFE lines are too stiff to push over and hose clamp. This means using a crimp connection or a specialized AN style fitting. This is going to make it very hard to couple the new hose to the Porsche fittings. The reason that Porsche uses to set of lines is for ease of installation; removing a connection is a good principle. However, these connection points give zero problems, and I have never seen a leak or failure at that point. My advice would be to use the factory pipes. These will typically give you 25 to 30 years of service before starting to show signs of age. Kurt
@@klassikats Thanks Kurt - I hear you loud and clear on the material, and I've found a hose that is conductive, convoluted (i.e. tight bend radius, which should help installation at the front and rear, at the expense of some flow characteristics I guess) and steel braided. However, it's a very good point about connections, where adapters are indeed needed to go from AN-style fittings to the metric Porsche threads. I'll give more thought to your advice to go with the original style lines - maybe I'm trying to be too smart for my own good here!
@@davidleech7938 David, I know what you mean, and I am all for using modern materials. But sometimes, it just leads us down the slippy slope of re-engineering the whole car. Which, based on past experience, does not always seem to work out the way we think it will. Thanks and good luck Kurt
You would save a lot of time and effort if you use my M14 Female connector and pull the new replacement in at the rear while you pull out the old out the front.
Pushing the fuel lines through the tunnel is the easiest part of the job. I also like to bring the new line from the front to the back so there is less chance of the fuel pump banjo fitting or large fuel return nut getting jammed in the tunnel. Thanks for the input though. Kurt
I was about to change my lines out of the SC, with aluminum lines. Would it be better to source polymide? I already have the an compression fittings to metric for the fuel pump side.
Ali, I would just use a Polyamide hose rather than any type of solid line either steel or aluminum. Polyamide has a service life of approximately 30+ years and really does not give us any real issues. Kurt
It makes no difference to me if the engine is installed or not. The access to the fuel lines at the back of the car is unimpaired once you have the transmission cross member off. Kurt
Thanks so much for working so hard on my car! Your trusty helper filmed it while helping you!
Our pleasure!
You’re the best! I love how you work! Many blessings! 🙏
Thank you so much!
Kurt
Excellent video. Thank you! On my to do list this summer. I purchased new lines about a month ago.
Glad it was helpful!
Kurt
Hi, were did you get them from. I need to order some.
Thank you so much for this! Best video out there showing how to replace. Have this to do on my 3.2. Keep them coming and all the best to you both from UK.
Thanks, will do!
Great stuff!
Looks like having a helper on this one pays off big time. Keep up the great work guys!
Thanks 👍
Thank you so much for this video. I always learn a lot from you. I have never really thought about the fuel lines in the tunnel and be honest with you kind of Thommy something new that I didn’t know anything about it even think about it. Well, hopefully this makes sense you’re subscriber on the West Coast Los Angeles. Thank you.🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
You are very welcome
Kurt
Did this on a 356 and a beetle (hardline replacement) were just as painful, did this on my 993 and it was delightful in comparison.
Yep, The 993 is completely different chassis and it is way easy to access the lines on those cars
I did this job once... so far it's my most hated job on a 911!
It can be challenging, lots of working in confined spaces
Kurt
That looks like a knuckle buster of a job.
Nope, pretty straight forward job.
Kurt
@@klassikats My 74 Targa has original tunnel fuel lines should I be concerned?
Only if they are leaking.
Kurt
Another first rate video! I have to do this on my 1987 turbo, but at least the engine and transmission are out of the car, which should help. Are the new Porsche fuel lines resistant to E10? I have had bad luck with cohline lines drying out and leaking with E10.
The polyamide portion of the hose will not be a problem however the rubber flex lines on the ends will still be a problem. My best recommendation would be to find station in your area that sells Ethanol free gas. You can find a number of websites on google that list ethanol free stations.
hope that helps
Kurt
Thanks Kurt. I see there are several places I can get it around here.
Good tutorial, do you have a recommend source for replacement fuel line? Need to do this job on my '77.
Some of the fuel lines are available at aftermarket parts suppliers like Partsklassik, Pelican Parts, etc. However, for this job both lines had to come from the dealer as they were not available anywhere else.
Kurt
This is a very timely video for me!! I'm about to do the same, but with tight bend radius PTFE lines - I'm worried that it will be like pushing on a wet noodle! I'm going to try fixing a cone shaped caulking nozzle to the front of the line and pulling that through with some string (I already pulled the string through when I removed the old lines. Also, since the PTFE hose is highly flexible (25mm bend radius), I'm planning on running them directly from the pump to the accumulator with no bulkhead connections, in order to reduce the number of fail points. Since it's so flexible, I figure I can fish it out if ever needed. Can you think of any problems with taking this approach?
David,
There is so much to unpack here. First, PTFE lines are a great replacement for soft rubber flexible lines, but they come with some conditions. The first and biggest one is choosing the right PTFE material. For fuel lines, you have to use the Conductive PTFE lines. These hoses are impregnated with carbon to make them conductive. This is done to remove the possibility of Static Electricity build-up resulting in a possible spark. You don't want to blow up your car after a fuel line change due to a static spark discharge. The next issue is the connections. PTFE lines are too stiff to push over and hose clamp. This means using a crimp connection or a specialized AN style fitting. This is going to make it very hard to couple the new hose to the Porsche fittings.
The reason that Porsche uses to set of lines is for ease of installation; removing a connection is a good principle. However, these connection points give zero problems, and I have never seen a leak or failure at that point.
My advice would be to use the factory pipes. These will typically give you 25 to 30 years of service before starting to show signs of age.
Kurt
@@klassikats Thanks Kurt - I hear you loud and clear on the material, and I've found a hose that is conductive, convoluted (i.e. tight bend radius, which should help installation at the front and rear, at the expense of some flow characteristics I guess) and steel braided. However, it's a very good point about connections, where adapters are indeed needed to go from AN-style fittings to the metric Porsche threads. I'll give more thought to your advice to go with the original style lines - maybe I'm trying to be too smart for my own good here!
@@davidleech7938 David, I know what you mean, and I am all for using modern materials. But sometimes, it just leads us down the slippy slope of re-engineering the whole car. Which, based on past experience, does not always seem to work out the way we think it will.
Thanks and good luck
Kurt
You would save a lot of time and effort if you use my M14 Female connector and pull the new replacement in at the rear while you pull out the old out the front.
Pushing the fuel lines through the tunnel is the easiest part of the job. I also like to bring the new line from the front to the back so there is less chance of the fuel pump banjo fitting or large fuel return nut getting jammed in the tunnel. Thanks for the input though.
Kurt
I was about to change my lines out of the SC, with aluminum lines. Would it be better to source polymide? I already have the an compression fittings to metric for the fuel pump side.
Ali,
I would just use a Polyamide hose rather than any type of solid line either steel or aluminum. Polyamide has a service life of approximately 30+ years and really does not give us any real issues.
Kurt
Damn. I’ll have my engine and transmission out, would it be easier???
It makes no difference to me if the engine is installed or not. The access to the fuel lines at the back of the car is unimpaired once you have the transmission cross member off.
Kurt