Nice job Kenny, my dad, God rest him, always told me that when you do a job, do it the right way the first time. Saves you many headaches in the long run. As far as being sued, you are absolutely right. People now days are more sue happy than ever. Something wrong with that body shop bit though, don't get me wrong, I know you are telling the truth, but in some way the repair had to directly cause the wreck or interfered with a safety issue like a seat belt or airbag or Lord knows what. His lawyer must have sucked, because I would have appealed. Also with a shop or any business, get good insurance, if you can't afford the insurance, do not open to the public. It is also a good idea to incorporate, that way they can not touch your home or personal assets.
I'm 70-years old and a retired mechanic. Old school. When repairing plastic fuel lines, I prefer to use the plastic lines commonly used on tractor trailers. The lines are two-ply: black on the outside and white on the inside. They come in various sizes and are good for diesel fuel, gasoline, water, and so on. The specialty compression fittings for this type of plastic lines are quality. When needed I use an adaptor fitting to connect two dissimilar plastic lines. Saying that, I never had a problem. No leaks and no lawsuits.
Up here in Ontario, you'd have that special tool because of the sheer amount of repairs like this that you would be doing. We are deep in the rust belt. I've done hundreds of those repairs while I was working.
I've clamped the splice in a pair of vice grips to make that job easy when doing that in a vehicle. I've used small regular vice grips and needle nose vice grips. That tubing can be formed to fit areas like that tank has, just have to use just enough heat to make it flexible without kinking the tube. I use a practice piece for a test before I actually do it.
Really appreciate this video, I've been fighting with the fuel system on my 2000 Grand Cherokee 4.7 for months. Somehow missed it while replacing the fuel pump and fuel filter, but the inlet line to the fuel filter appears to have been bent enough to potentially restrict flow. Now I have at least an informed clue how to repair it!
Hey Kenny you can make a tool to press those lines together. It consists of a caulk gun and some wooden clamps. I used a piece of hand rail to my mine, drilled one in 5/16 and the other in 3/8. I cut the clamps with a coping saw and hold them tight over the line with hose clamps. The caulk gun will push the fittings right on with no heat or hot water.
Knew someone who did a hinky fuel line repair on a boat inboard or I guess stern drive. Long story short it leaked and boat burned to the water line. Total loss no body hurt and it was his boat
Gotta say, this is the first time I've seen somebody repair a plastic fuel line. I was taught to just replace the whole line. This was very interesting to watch, and seems to be a legit repair. Not questioning your work, rather the repair itself. Would be nice to get an update on this repair down the road to see how the fitting is holding up. Thoughts on spraying some undercarriage stuff on the exposed metal fitting? Good show sir.
They also make external unions too. They're plastic and work like a SharkBite. And beyond that, you can buy rubber fuel hose that has a working pressure above 100 Lbs/ in², and as you know most fuel systems are regulated at around 60 Lbs/ in². Push the rubber hose over the original barb on both ends and clamp. I personally double clamp each end. ben/ michigan
Great job Kenny, as I had to do that not long ago with a fuel filter instilation, because I had to break one of the quick connects to get the original fuel filter out. However, I am also having to replace two quick connects due to a fuel pump failure which could result in my taking a used car salesman to court. And that is because of a previous fuel pump replacement, that had improperly installed quick connect fittings. So baling wire and electrical tape, is not the proper way to secure quick connect fittings to a fuel pump. Which almost cost me a truck to a gasoline fire when the connection failed, costing me half a tank of gasoline before I could get back home while out on deliveries.
Excellent Job !! Im a retired mechanic, and let me tell you, i see a lot of stupid repair, 😂😂😂, but your absolutely right, people play with they live everytime until it has and accident ! 😮 😮
Good job … I had to do a similar repair on my Jeep just before this past winter. The connector was exposed in front of the tank so I didn't have to drop the tank thankfully. But it was in such an awkward place that I couldn't get the right leverage to make the splice work. So I used the nylon coupler option instead. Worked great! 😛
Great repair. One thing I was learning today as I was working on my motorcycle is the different types of standard fuel line tubing. I initially bought a string that was only rated for 50PSI max but I needed between 55-65psi based on the repair manual. I had no idea but I'm so glad I checked. I would have totally put in the wrong fuel line.
I replaced my civic gas line from the fuel pump to the firewall with high pressure fuel hose and flared the end of the original pipe Honda routes the brake and gas line in a plastic cover,sad thing is it rusted out on both. 97 with 549k.
Great video. Tackling a fuel leak on my 07 Yukon this weekend. Not sure what I'm in for yet but I see joining some nylon lines in my future. Thanks to you have a bit more confidence in success.
Kenny I thought you sounded like a New Yorker, then in recent videos you've confirmed that. I spent 30 years in Texas and for a bit in the 80s did the annual state safety inspections. I've now been in Minnesota for 10 years and have now experienced the rusty crusty stuff common in the "salt belt" of the US. I've been watching Eric O at SMA deal with the rusty crusty stuff PLUS the crazy laws and regulations and restrictions that NY state puts on cars and I have mad respect for him dealing with all that. I'm guessing you're glad to not have to deal with all that!!
I wonder if that repair barb causes a bit of a pressure drop. Respectfully, I might do a repair such as this on my personal vehicle. I would not on someone else's; I'd replace that fuel-line section/assembly with a good aftermarket or OEM piece.
I drop tanks over lifting a bed less chance of damaging the bed less rusted bolts to remove. Going to evac and steam clean the tank before installing a new pump anyway. that poly tank is much lighter than a Pick up box
i have used a heat gun to form angles in those lines to match oem. another thing i do is use that line for pcv lines and a short hose to connect heat form looks really nice they make a heater for pvc pipe to form s-curves and also 90s to save buying elbos cuts down on fittings probably would work for that as well
good job, whats the spec of the nylon tube i need some for a corsa repair and I don't seem to be able to find any ! oops silly me found it in the video at 5.21 I cannot get the dorman stuff in UK ill keep looking
To be fair...even if you do a good job, these people will sue. You either get liability insurance and bonding or get a bulletproof "hold harmless" (liability waiver / indemnity agreement) Alternatively, you form an LLC, where you're legally separated from the business...so when they sue your business, they can only get the assets of the business.
@@rextownsend5101 explain? indemnity agreements, especially defensive right are pretty solid, especially when written in plain English... although they aren't recognized in all countries. The LLC, so long as the rules are followed to maintain the integrity of the legal separation, are entire separate from the single member or multiparty. Any asset under the LLC can be captured for court required restitution, with a legal limit (state laws) as to how much restitution can be awarded to claimants. The only way to go further, is if you can legally prove that the rules of separation were violated, proving the association with the person/persons who filed it. The only other way to get around that, is if the judge is ignorant of the law, or belligerent towards it. Such would go straight to appeals, with pressure against the judge. Corporate/Commerce laws are important, if they're trampled on, then no organization would/will operate in such a state. It'd be wrecking the state economy...
My mother in law just sprung a leak on her Sienna only up by the engine. I am going to try the Dorman 800-191 couplers as it looks like it should be a faster fix. Have you used the Dorman couplers? Good video. Happy Motoring.
What surprised me about that Dorman tool to fix plastic line is how thin the wall of the replacement line in the kit is. There isn't much to resist abrasion, kinking, and disaster.
Glad I don't fix people's vehicle's any longer? Just lawn equipment occasionally? Even then, you always have to work safely yourself, and especially make sure it's safe to use, regardless of what you did, or something you didn't touch? It's called "CYA"? I'll cover my butt, by making sure the owner signs and is notified of any safety related issues with their stuff? You'd be surprised how many people don't properly tighten their cutting blades on push mowers or riders? It's so they can remove them easily by hand, when replacing them or sharpening them? I always impact them on with my 3/8" air impact wrench. Great one, Kenny.
Thanks Kenny ! I always think wrk and perform that it's me and the people I work for and is at & on my watch or Repair,,,Therefore .I've Been Labeled The Nit Picker, overkill perfectionist ,,,Yes I Am And Always Will Remain ,As as I Send It Out,, I'm satisfied to put it out on the road and life ! As if it were my own!!!
Also, just as an additional CYA we back up the plastic push on fittings with a small crimped style fuel line clamp to be extra sure it can't get pulled loose or leak if the line gets hot due to unforeseeable circumstances. It's more than the manufacturer of the vehicle even does but it's cheaper than problems. One more tip, a little drop of engine oil on the barb usually lets you push them into even cold lines with fair ease. You can build a fitting pusher from a caulking gun and some aluminum stock that works pretty good if you need to work in a tight space to push a fitting in on car say in the engine bay or under the vehicle.
Had one of my neighbors come to me and asked me if I could look at their vehicle because they could smell gas and had gas leaking from the tank somewhere they had just had a fuel pump put in and I looked at the top of the tank with a endoscope and the repair shop used a piece of shrink wrap to join the fuel lines told them to bring it back to them immediately and tell them what I found didn’t want to touch that job with a ten foot pole ten feet away . Couldn’t believe what I saw 👀. Talk about a butcher job I had him take a video of my screen of the endoscope as proof of the butcher work. Talk about a scary repair!
They make metal inserts I would of spliced a new plastic line then covered it with the rubber hose and tighten on both sides with hose clamps placed over where the metal adaptors are underneath that way it’s just a double protection
Nice work on that line and helpful tips as always. You showed that the Dorman line has greater flexibility then the OEM line. If I had known that earlier, it could have prevented me from trashing the OEM line which I then had to replace in its entirety.
I done it the best i could if it happens to ever blow off I'll put it back on i didn't use hard plastic that plastic doesn't last as some claims it does i know that it doesn't i used rubber gas line of 3/8 The original use to be 5/16 so someone went in before me and i just replaced all the rotten stuff they done its completely took out
I innersleaved plastic with steel fule line then went over with 3/8 braideded rubber And 4 Fule line clamps on my splice .only as temp .for order of correct new supply and return lines ,,,😉
Replace plastic fuel lines don't repair them. Way to much assumed liability for trying to "fix" a line that's not designed to be repaired.. As a retired GM tech with 40 years experience I'd never EVER repair a plastic fuel line.
As someone that's been driving for more than 40 years, not all of us can afford the the $85 an hour the dealer charges to disassemble the engine halfway, replace the part, with the dealer's 30% markup, and reassemble and road test it. I can also change a headlight bulb without going to the dealer. There have been shade tree mechanics almost as long as there have been trees and automobiles. I can also repair a Model T, or a Model A. Ford stopped doing that a while ago.😉
you do realize you are working on a fuel line on side of road probably tipped fuel and you say in a pinch use a lighter hope the car you are working on has fire insurance
The labor and materials cost of quality repair that you just shown will excess the value of purchase the whole host assembly brand new (or OEM used) plus remove and installation cost. I do not believe the service advisor team will approve your repair the reuse-the old host method as shown since it is against the business model of most repair shop in America.
Can work for people just as a favor. No charge. Just tell them that. That way there’s no liability. I get so mad when people work on my stuff and they do more damage than good. Keep wrenching. Literally
So the Bodyshops work didn't cause this accident but the Legal Vultures sued and blamed them anyway?....Yeah, sueing and Litigation in the USA is like a cancer on society...Its spread here to in the UK....🤔😳🙄🙄🙄🇬🇧
Nice job Kenny, my dad, God rest him, always told me that when you do a job, do it the right way the first time. Saves you many headaches in the long run. As far as being sued, you are absolutely right. People now days are more sue happy than ever. Something wrong with that body shop bit though, don't get me wrong, I know you are telling the truth, but in some way the repair had to directly cause the wreck or interfered with a safety issue like a seat belt or airbag or Lord knows what. His lawyer must have sucked, because I would have appealed. Also with a shop or any business, get good insurance, if you can't afford the insurance, do not open to the public. It is also a good idea to incorporate, that way they can not touch your home or personal assets.
I'm 70-years old and a retired mechanic. Old school. When repairing plastic fuel lines, I prefer to use the plastic lines commonly used on tractor trailers. The lines are two-ply: black on the outside and white on the inside. They come in various sizes and are good for diesel fuel, gasoline, water, and so on. The specialty compression fittings for this type of plastic lines are quality. When needed I use an adaptor fitting to connect two dissimilar plastic lines. Saying that, I never had a problem. No leaks and no lawsuits.
Those lines are also rated for a higher pressure, that's why some of the fittings may be different.
Up here in Ontario, you'd have that special tool because of the sheer amount of repairs like this that you would be doing. We are deep in the rust belt. I've done hundreds of those repairs while I was working.
I've clamped the splice in a pair of vice grips to make that job easy when doing that in a vehicle. I've used small regular vice grips and needle nose vice grips. That tubing can be formed to fit areas like that tank has, just have to use just enough heat to make it flexible without kinking the tube. I use a practice piece for a test before I actually do it.
Exactly !
Thank you Kenny for the word of advice
Good morning Mr Kenny, great job sir, hope y'all have a good weekend
Really appreciate this video, I've been fighting with the fuel system on my 2000 Grand Cherokee 4.7 for months. Somehow missed it while replacing the fuel pump and fuel filter, but the inlet line to the fuel filter appears to have been bent enough to potentially restrict flow.
Now I have at least an informed clue how to repair it!
I'm glad I could help. Thanks for watching & keep wrenching 🔧
Hey Kenny you can make a tool to press those lines together. It consists of a caulk gun and some wooden clamps. I used a piece of hand rail to my mine, drilled one in 5/16 and the other in 3/8. I cut the clamps with a coping saw and hold them tight over the line with hose clamps. The caulk gun will push the fittings right on with no heat or hot water.
Knew someone who did a hinky fuel line repair on a boat inboard or I guess stern drive. Long story short it leaked and boat burned to the water line. Total loss no body hurt and it was his boat
Master Kenny,very enlightened on this repair! Safe and done right! Knowledge priceless$ and vehicle won't go down the road blazing saddles!
That isn't a good repair.....thats a beautiful repair! Nothing but respect here.
Gotta say, this is the first time I've seen somebody repair a plastic fuel line. I was taught to just replace the whole line. This was very interesting to watch, and seems to be a legit repair. Not questioning your work, rather the repair itself. Would be nice to get an update on this repair down the road to see how the fitting is holding up. Thoughts on spraying some undercarriage stuff on the exposed metal fitting? Good show sir.
i've used one of those barbs before, held up fine. they can be tough to get in
Technically, the barbed splice is now a fuel flow restriction.
@@gfbemc0256 technically, it's not.
They also make external unions too. They're plastic and work like a SharkBite. And beyond that, you can buy rubber fuel hose that has a working pressure above 100 Lbs/ in², and as you know most fuel systems are regulated at around 60 Lbs/ in². Push the rubber hose over the original barb on both ends and clamp. I personally double clamp each end. ben/ michigan
I’ve done that and it lasted years
Great job Kenny, as I had to do that not long ago with a fuel filter instilation, because I had to break one of the quick connects to get the original fuel filter out. However, I am also having to replace two quick connects due to a fuel pump failure which could result in my taking a used car salesman to court. And that is because of a previous fuel pump replacement, that had improperly installed quick connect fittings. So baling wire and electrical tape, is not the proper way to secure quick connect fittings to a fuel pump. Which almost cost me a truck to a gasoline fire when the connection failed, costing me half a tank of gasoline before I could get back home while out on deliveries.
Excellent Job !! Im a retired mechanic, and let me tell you, i see a lot of stupid repair, 😂😂😂, but your absolutely right, people play with they live everytime until it has and accident ! 😮 😮
Kenny. You are a Super Cool Cat!!! 👍👍
Good job … I had to do a similar repair on my Jeep just before this past winter. The connector was exposed in front of the tank so I didn't have to drop the tank thankfully. But it was in such an awkward place that I couldn't get the right leverage to make the splice work. So I used the nylon coupler option instead. Worked great! 😛
I wish you would do a video on the o-rings that go inside the connector. Like where to get the right ones...
Great repair. One thing I was learning today as I was working on my motorcycle is the different types of standard fuel line tubing. I initially bought a string that was only rated for 50PSI max but I needed between 55-65psi based on the repair manual. I had no idea but I'm so glad I checked. I would have totally put in the wrong fuel line.
What job doesn’t have coffee or a microwave? I’ve used a coffee cup to heat fuel line kits or sealant.
I replaced my civic gas line from the fuel pump to the firewall with high pressure fuel hose and flared the end of the original pipe Honda routes the brake and gas line in a plastic cover,sad thing is it rusted out on both. 97 with 549k.
You can get stainless steel lines, I swapped out all my brake lines with it
Great video. Tackling a fuel leak on my 07 Yukon this weekend. Not sure what I'm in for yet but I see joining some nylon lines in my future. Thanks to you have a bit more confidence in success.
Thing of beauty Kenny!
very smart and helpful video thanks
A nice, professional repair Kenny!
Great advise and repair.
Good advice and good video 👍
Kenny I thought you sounded like a New Yorker, then in recent videos you've confirmed that. I spent 30 years in Texas and for a bit in the 80s did the annual state safety inspections. I've now been in Minnesota for 10 years and have now experienced the rusty crusty stuff common in the "salt belt" of the US. I've been watching Eric O at SMA deal with the rusty crusty stuff PLUS the crazy laws and regulations and restrictions that NY state puts on cars and I have mad respect for him dealing with all that. I'm guessing you're glad to not have to deal with all that!!
Nice repair Kenny, I didn't know such kits were available.
I've found it helps to heat the metal fitting a little so it doesn't cool the plastic line as you press it in.
It also makes the metal expand
@@kellismith4329 That small of a diameter doesn't expand that much. No need to get it super hot just warm does the trick.
I wonder if that repair barb causes a bit of a pressure drop. Respectfully, I might do a repair such as this on my personal vehicle. I would not on someone else's; I'd replace that fuel-line section/assembly with a good aftermarket or OEM piece.
Thank you for your videos. What is this court case you're talking about?
I found it way easier to remove the truck box to do the pump, makes it way easier
I love the line “the right way to do the wrong thing”
I drop tanks over lifting a bed less chance of damaging the bed less rusted bolts to remove. Going to evac and steam clean the tank before installing a new pump anyway. that poly tank is much lighter than a Pick up box
Hello...How many millimeters of difference is there between the fitting and the nylon tube?
Some people help me????
Any suggestions for insurance for small time mechanics?
NICE JOB MR.!!!
Great job
I've heated barbed and made join when working in line splice ,under vehicles with split leak ,,, without removal of line ,lowering tank ect ...
Great video Kenny.
i have used a heat gun to form angles in those lines to match oem. another thing i do is use that line for pcv lines and a short hose to connect heat form looks really nice they make a heater for pvc pipe to form s-curves and also 90s to save buying elbos cuts down on fittings probably would work for that as well
It's the right way to do the wrong thing! NAILED IT! 😂😂😁😂😂 💯
‘Doing this by side of road, With a lighter!’ WHAT on a line that’s Fuel in it???💥🔥😩
Great repair!
For hot water a torch and an old can works very well in a pinch… don’t ask me how I know 😂
Also a hose coiled up hanging outside in the wall in the sun makes a nice mini heat exchanger and hot running water for washing hands etc
good job, whats the spec of the nylon tube i need some for a corsa repair and I don't seem to be able to find any ! oops silly me found it in the video at 5.21 I cannot get the dorman stuff in UK ill keep looking
Good. Well explained.
To be fair...even if you do a good job, these people will sue. You either get liability insurance and bonding or get a bulletproof "hold harmless" (liability waiver / indemnity agreement)
Alternatively, you form an LLC, where you're legally separated from the business...so when they sue your business, they can only get the assets of the business.
Agreed, Legal VULTURES....A cancer on society ..🤔😳🙄🇬🇧
Yes, you need liability insurance when you work on other peoples cars. And, forming a LLC and using indemnity agreements is not sufficient.
@@rextownsend5101 explain?
indemnity agreements, especially defensive right are pretty solid, especially when written in plain English... although they aren't recognized in all countries.
The LLC, so long as the rules are followed to maintain the integrity of the legal separation, are entire separate from the single member or multiparty. Any asset under the LLC can be captured for court required restitution, with a legal limit (state laws) as to how much restitution can be awarded to claimants.
The only way to go further, is if you can legally prove that the rules of separation were violated, proving the association with the person/persons who filed it.
The only other way to get around that, is if the judge is ignorant of the law, or belligerent towards it. Such would go straight to appeals, with pressure against the judge. Corporate/Commerce laws are important, if they're trampled on, then no organization would/will operate in such a state. It'd be wrecking the state economy...
My mother in law just sprung a leak on her Sienna only up by the engine. I am going to try the Dorman 800-191 couplers as it looks like it should be a faster fix. Have you used the Dorman couplers? Good video. Happy Motoring.
Perfect 👍
What surprised me about that Dorman tool to fix plastic line is how thin the wall of the replacement line in the kit is. There isn't much to resist abrasion, kinking, and disaster.
The Dorman actually appeared thicker than the factory line . Those nylon lines are very thin , but tough.
Glad I don't fix people's vehicle's any longer? Just lawn equipment occasionally? Even then, you always have to work safely yourself, and especially make sure it's safe to use, regardless of what you did, or something you didn't touch? It's called "CYA"? I'll cover my butt, by making sure the owner signs and is notified of any safety related issues with their stuff? You'd be surprised how many people don't properly tighten their cutting blades on push mowers or riders? It's so they can remove them easily by hand, when replacing them or sharpening them? I always impact them on with my 3/8" air impact wrench. Great one, Kenny.
Thanks Kenny ! I always think wrk and perform that it's me and the people I work for and is at & on my watch or Repair,,,Therefore .I've Been Labeled The Nit Picker, overkill perfectionist ,,,Yes I Am And Always Will Remain ,As as I Send It Out,, I'm satisfied to put it out on the road and life ! As if it were my own!!!
Also, just as an additional CYA we back up the plastic push on fittings with a small crimped style fuel line clamp to be extra sure it can't get pulled loose or leak if the line gets hot due to unforeseeable circumstances. It's more than the manufacturer of the vehicle even does but it's cheaper than problems. One more tip, a little drop of engine oil on the barb usually lets you push them into even cold lines with fair ease. You can build a fitting pusher from a caulking gun and some aluminum stock that works pretty good if you need to work in a tight space to push a fitting in on car say in the engine bay or under the vehicle.
You can press the barb on with a caulk gun.
Even if you do it free to help a friend they can turn on you
Shop insurance is A must have period
NICE!
Had one of my neighbors come to me and asked me if I could look at their vehicle because they could smell gas and had gas leaking from the tank somewhere they had just had a fuel pump put in and I looked at the top of the tank with a endoscope and the repair shop used a piece of shrink wrap to join the fuel lines told them to bring it back to them immediately and tell them what I found didn’t want to touch that job with a ten foot pole ten feet away . Couldn’t believe what I saw 👀. Talk about a butcher job I had him take a video of my screen of the endoscope as proof of the butcher work. Talk about a scary repair!
They make metal inserts I would of spliced a new plastic line then covered it with the rubber hose and tighten on both sides with hose clamps placed over where the metal adaptors are underneath that way it’s just a double protection
Nice work on that line and helpful tips as always. You showed that the Dorman line has greater flexibility then the OEM line. If I had known that earlier, it could have prevented me from trashing the OEM line which I then had to replace in its entirety.
I done it the best i could if it happens to ever blow off I'll put it back on i didn't use hard plastic that plastic doesn't last as some claims it does i know that it doesn't i used rubber gas line of 3/8
The original use to be 5/16 so someone went in before me and i just replaced all the rotten stuff they done its completely took out
Usually replace from the tank,to the filter with stainless line
I innersleaved plastic with steel fule line then went over with 3/8 braideded rubber And 4 Fule line clamps on my splice .only as temp .for order of correct new supply and return lines ,,,😉
When I ran my welding and fab shop, I did turn away more than a few jobs that I would not touch.
On the side of the road, with a lighter? On the side of the road would mean that there is fuel present. B O O M!
Not a fan of dorman, but the kit they sell to repair these with all the fittings is a good kit, rather pricey but definitely nice to have.
That rubber hose that was on their at first WAS NOT SAFE AT ALL!! replace lines with new ONLY!
Replace plastic fuel lines don't repair them. Way to much assumed liability for trying to "fix" a line that's not designed to be repaired.. As a retired GM tech with 40 years experience I'd never EVER repair a plastic fuel line.
You dealership "techs" don't know anything which is why people hate dealerships. You're just parts replacers.
And it’s not plastic
Some of ot is hard plastic and it breaks as plastic does
As someone that's been driving for more than 40 years, not all of us can afford the the $85 an hour the dealer charges to disassemble the engine halfway, replace the part, with the dealer's 30% markup, and reassemble and road test it. I can also change a headlight bulb without going to the dealer. There have been shade tree mechanics almost as long as there have been trees and automobiles. I can also repair a Model T, or a Model A. Ford stopped doing that a while ago.😉
Exactly Fords are literally the Automotive world, 😅😅@@faststang89
The lawsuit story I know was a lied, but he did a good job conection
Bro, that looks OEM😂 That’s an EVAP line. LoL
Doing it on the car is a different ballgame
Always make your bed before you cut it
If it had a barb in the plastic line it would have been fine
Heat gun wrks so we'll !
Hurry up and just get to the video
If plastic breaks it’s All bad and dangerous
Use only OEM fuel lines and parts period or don’t take the job
this is the main reason why i dont work on other peoples stuff
Nice😂
you do realize you are working on a fuel line on side of road probably tipped fuel and you say in a pinch use a lighter hope the car you are working on has fire insurance
The labor and materials cost of quality repair that you just shown will excess the value of purchase the whole host assembly brand new (or OEM used) plus remove and installation cost. I do not believe the service advisor team will approve your repair the reuse-the old host method as shown since it is against the business model of most repair shop in America.
Can work for people just as a favor. No charge. Just tell them that. That way there’s no liability. I get so mad when people work on my stuff and they do more damage than good. Keep wrenching. Literally
Oh yea. Still don’t mess up because they might still blam you. No law involved. Never had that happen but it is conceivable
Yeah, if its got fuel in it or you're around fuel then DON'T USE A LIGHTER! Please don't... Please. 👀
But if its fresh brand new nylon then its fine.
Why not just get that line from the junk yard
You'd have to pay yourself to drop the tank out of the donor vehicle too.
@@bassboat1 how I go to the junk yard tell them the part I want they go pull it and bring it to me to pay for
Probably a flat rate Tech.
Don't repair anyones vehicle in a 'woke' Democrat gestapo zone. K, got it.
So the Bodyshops work didn't cause this accident but the Legal Vultures sued and blamed them anyway?....Yeah, sueing and Litigation in the USA is like a cancer on society...Its spread here to in the UK....🤔😳🙄🙄🙄🇬🇧