Do you have to do anything special with the ABS system? I know some you're supposed to connect a diagnostic tool and run a special sequence to flush out the ABS module, etc.
Maybe I misunderstood, but while you pump 5 times, does the bleeder valve stay open and then close it? Or you pump after you close it, and after you pump, you go back out and open it? Because I tried to do it this way and barely any fluid came out of the bleeder
If you still need it or just for your information, you keep it closed when pump. What this does, is it forces/pushes fluid from the resevoir, to the master, then ulitmately to the slave cylinder pushing air. When you open the bleeder valve, it releases air, and it pushes the fluid even further to the 1 man bleeder container or a dry water bottle. When you close the bleeder valve to then pump your clutch, the fluid continues to push air out of the system since air cannot compress itself in the fluid only in open space.
Stupid question? Just wondering if you necessarily need to put the car on jack stands for these procedures? Does the car have to be level? Or is it possible to do it by jacking each side, taking the tire off and doing it one by one? (Obviously, I don't have jack stands :) ). Thanks!
Question for the clutch fluid bleed do you pump the clutch five times in a row then open the bleeder valve? Then for brake fluid do you pump the brake five times in a row like the clutch or just pump the brake once and open the bleeder?
Most of the time I don't bother doing it for the brake fluid, since sooo much fluid is getting run through the system anyway. If you are using the one-man bleeder that I have in the video description, it will put pressure on the system for both the clutch and brake fluid bleeds, which will reduce the chance of getting air into the system by a lot. I will close the valves for clutch bleeds, because the system is so much smaller with a lot less fluid, and easier to do controlled bleeds.
Thanks for the video, I just got a 9th gen si, and I plan on doing these changes as the manual instructs. Do you agree that every 30k miles the brake fluid should be changed? What about transmission fluid?
I change brake fluid every 3 years or whenever I do a new set of brakes. If you drive 30k miles, definitely change it. If you just bought it, definitely change it. Transmission fluid depends on if its manual or automatic, but generally speaking I’d change every 30k. The car manual may say 60k, but keep in mind MTF is just like engine gear oil, so change it frequently to improve shifting. ATF is a very different fluid from MTF, and in some ways has a greater impact on the health of the transmission compared to MTF, because the actual driver of a manual stick shift can really destroy things, where an Automatic driver has less direct impact on it. So for ATF, you want that ATF Bright Red without any burnt smell. Keep it like that and you’re golden.
Is your parking brake engaged just a little bit? Do they stay on with the car off? Try looking under your dash above the brake pedal, follow the pedal arm up and you will see a switch. Check that the button on switch is aligned with the arm and is being pushed into shut the brake lights off. Pull up on pedal and have some one watch to see if brake lights go out, if they do you may have to adjust he switch so button gets pushed correct amount to open connection. If all looks good and brake lights still on, the brake light switch could be faulty or a short in the brake circuits wiring, which will have to be traced and repaired. If you have a trailer light harness installed check/remove it as sometimes these can be problem. Hopefully it is something simple, but may be worth taking to a mechanic.
The pedal will stay down when it's pressed and you have the bleeder valve open. It should work normally once you tighten the valve back and raise the pedal to the proper position. If it still stays down after you have closed the bleeder valve, then air is in the line and it needs to be bleed out, or you have a bad master cylinder.
Usually Half to 1 Quart. It just depends on how dirty the system is. If the fluid is coming out clean after only Half a Quart, and I don't have any more use for the rest of the brake fluid, I'll use the entire Quart to flush the system, because Brake Fluid is hygroscopic and should be used completely the day you open it. So it's best to use all of it at once, so you might as well use the extra to flush your systems out more.
Just did a clutch bleed on my 2012 civic si but now when I try to put it into gear while the car is running, it grinds as if the clutch is not engaging. What could I have done improperly?
Still air in that system I had that after clutch replacement. I usually do like he does on video except i leave the line open while I pump since its become a system where it'll only suck fluid in not air but before i refill the reservoir i close the bleed valve refil the clutch fluid or brake fluid then put cap on loosen the bleed valve and repeat the process.
@coryrosales5981 same bottle he uses as he instructed keep it higher than the valve, put fluid in the bottom of the bottle to trap the system then open the valve and pump few times but don't run dry the reservoir then lets say 3 pumps then close the valve, open the reservoir cap and fill then close the cap, open the bleed valve and repeat until all clear fluid after all dirty fluid out a few times of the process try pumping your clutch pedal 10 times to see if there's any spongy or air in system if not you're good to go.
i called the garage and they said it was a hard job flushing a clutch and wasent my fluid overdue it was my gear box...... i know my gearbox is good no grinding audible its just hard to pass in first-second gear when engine is hot.... i hate when people screw for money ... one call to a specialised mechanic i dont like to bother with this told me to tell them off and go somewhere else theyre bad buisness and a clutch fluid flush will fix the issue i have -_-
Yes - many garages will outright lie to you. Some are simply incompetent. The obvious first step is to do the fluids first, and then see what happens. Whenever anyone tries to diagnose a problem without looking, testing, or using an OBD2 tool, back away.
Thank you for going through every step and explaining in detail. It helps those who's dad's aren't around anymore. ❤️
You're welcome
Great content and tips
Do you have to do anything special with the ABS system? I know some you're supposed to connect a diagnostic tool and run a special sequence to flush out the ABS module, etc.
Maybe I misunderstood, but while you pump 5 times, does the bleeder valve stay open and then close it? Or you pump after you close it, and after you pump, you go back out and open it? Because I tried to do it this way and barely any fluid came out of the bleeder
If you still need it or just for your information, you keep it closed when pump. What this does, is it forces/pushes fluid from the resevoir, to the master, then ulitmately to the slave cylinder pushing air. When you open the bleeder valve, it releases air, and it pushes the fluid even further to the 1 man bleeder container or a dry water bottle. When you close the bleeder valve to then pump your clutch, the fluid continues to push air out of the system since air cannot compress itself in the fluid only in open space.
Stupid question? Just wondering if you necessarily need to put the car on jack stands for these procedures? Does the car have to be level? Or is it possible to do it by jacking each side, taking the tire off and doing it one by one? (Obviously, I don't have jack stands :) ). Thanks!
Yes - the car should be level so the fluid drains properly.
fyi ..the front jack point has a HUGE arrow where it is on the plastic
Question for the clutch fluid bleed do you pump the clutch five times in a row then open the bleeder valve? Then for brake fluid do you pump the brake five times in a row like the clutch or just pump the brake once and open the bleeder?
Most of the time I don't bother doing it for the brake fluid, since sooo much fluid is getting run through the system anyway. If you are using the one-man bleeder that I have in the video description, it will put pressure on the system for both the clutch and brake fluid bleeds, which will reduce the chance of getting air into the system by a lot. I will close the valves for clutch bleeds, because the system is so much smaller with a lot less fluid, and easier to do controlled bleeds.
@@Stimwalt gotcha thanks bro I like your vids a lot very direct and good instructions just wanted to make sure
Do you have to do all four? Or can you just bleed out the break fluid on on side?
my car doesn't have that reservoir for the clutch just the tube is there. Is that fine?
Thanks for the video, I just got a 9th gen si, and I plan on doing these changes as the manual instructs. Do you agree that every 30k miles the brake fluid should be changed? What about transmission fluid?
I change brake fluid every 3 years or whenever I do a new set of brakes. If you drive 30k miles, definitely change it. If you just bought it, definitely change it. Transmission fluid depends on if its manual or automatic, but generally speaking I’d change every 30k. The car manual may say 60k, but keep in mind MTF is just like engine gear oil, so change it frequently to improve shifting. ATF is a very different fluid from MTF, and in some ways has a greater impact on the health of the transmission compared to MTF, because the actual driver of a manual stick shift can really destroy things, where an Automatic driver has less direct impact on it. So for ATF, you want that ATF Bright Red without any burnt smell. Keep it like that and you’re golden.
@@Stimwalt Awesome thanks for the info!
Do you know what could cause my brake lights to stay on ?
Is your parking brake engaged just a little bit? Do they stay on with the car off? Try looking under your dash above the brake pedal, follow the pedal arm up and you will see a switch. Check that the button on switch is aligned with the arm and is being pushed into shut the brake lights off. Pull up on pedal and have some one watch to see if brake lights go out, if they do you may have to adjust he switch so button gets pushed correct amount to open connection. If all looks good and brake lights still on, the brake light switch could be faulty or a short in the brake circuits wiring, which will have to be traced and repaired. If you have a trailer light harness installed check/remove it as sometimes these can be problem. Hopefully it is something simple, but may be worth taking to a mechanic.
I'm almost done but my clutch pedal just stays down and I have to pull it back up. What do I do?!
The pedal will stay down when it's pressed and you have the bleeder valve open. It should work normally once you tighten the valve back and raise the pedal to the proper position. If it still stays down after you have closed the bleeder valve, then air is in the line and it needs to be bleed out, or you have a bad master cylinder.
@@Stimwalt I finally got it hours later. Took some fiddling. No way to explain it with these things 😂
@@McDylanNuggets Glad it worked out.
how much clutch fluid did you use to do the flush?
Usually Half to 1 Quart. It just depends on how dirty the system is. If the fluid is coming out clean after only Half a Quart, and I don't have any more use for the rest of the brake fluid, I'll use the entire Quart to flush the system, because Brake Fluid is hygroscopic and should be used completely the day you open it. So it's best to use all of it at once, so you might as well use the extra to flush your systems out more.
Just did a clutch bleed on my 2012 civic si but now when I try to put it into gear while the car is running, it grinds as if the clutch is not engaging. What could I have done improperly?
Still air in that system I had that after clutch replacement. I usually do like he does on video except i leave the line open while I pump since its become a system where it'll only suck fluid in not air but before i refill the reservoir i close the bleed valve refil the clutch fluid or brake fluid then put cap on loosen the bleed valve and repeat the process.
@@rodey6594 So I should open the bleeder valve, depress the pedal, then close it instead of pumping and holding on the floor before opening bleeder?
@coryrosales5981 same bottle he uses as he instructed keep it higher than the valve, put fluid in the bottom of the bottle to trap the system then open the valve and pump few times but don't run dry the reservoir then lets say 3 pumps then close the valve, open the reservoir cap and fill then close the cap, open the bleed valve and repeat until all clear fluid after all dirty fluid out a few times of the process try pumping your clutch pedal 10 times to see if there's any spongy or air in system if not you're good to go.
You don't have to hold the pedal down and someone close the valve since you're already trapping fluid in in this method.
@coryrosales5981 like this guy is what i usually do
th-cam.com/video/EGCDQMYmSlY/w-d-xo.html
i called the garage and they said it was a hard job flushing a clutch and wasent my fluid overdue it was my gear box...... i know my gearbox is good no grinding audible its just hard to pass in first-second gear when engine is hot.... i hate when people screw for money ... one call to a specialised mechanic i dont like to bother with this told me to tell them off and go somewhere else theyre bad buisness and a clutch fluid flush will fix the issue i have -_-
Yes - many garages will outright lie to you. Some are simply incompetent. The obvious first step is to do the fluids first, and then see what happens. Whenever anyone tries to diagnose a problem without looking, testing, or using an OBD2 tool, back away.
Is it the same brake fluid and clutch fluid dumb question ?
Yes it is. Brake and Clutch fluid are identical.