Creality Ender 3 Hot End Heat Creep - Remove Those Screws......Maybe?
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ต.ค. 2018
- Chuck tests the idea that you should you remove Hot-End Screws on ENDER3, CR-10, CR-10 mini to prevent Heat Creep. In the 3D Printing Community, there is a belief that the screws on the sides of the heat block were left in by mistake for shipping but not removed which will cause heat creep in the PTFE tube and cause filament blockage in your 3D printer. This video explores if that is true!
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Good research Chuck, thanks for the video.
😅
Love it, man!!!
I'm impressed at the concise and clean delivery of information in your videos. There are so many videos that could take 35 seconds which are dragged on to 5 minutes that I was pleasantly surprised to find a 5 min video that actually needed to be 5 min. Solid.
Thanks. I try.
Well done sir - exactly what this hobby needs. Some rigorous scientific testing of claims. Bravo!
Having butted heads with a certain self-proclaimed "lobbyist" for removing those screws in every Creality group I'm in on Facebook (guy is like a shadow! lol), I'm so thrilled to see this video and the results. You did an excellent job of finding the cold hard facts (no pun intneded lol) rather than just guessing and theories. I already knew my Ender 3 prints fine with the screws in, but honestly expected to see at lest SOME heat transfer. Nice to know there's no trade-offs at all for leaving them in. Thanks so much for your time and effort that went into testing and making this video!
Genius idea. Those screws actually allow the heat break in the center made a lot thinner thus transferring less heat. Without them it would need a lot more robust heat break to withstand the forces while printing.
Took a while for someone to just straight up say it and not let it be conjecture on the internet forever. You got a subscriber!
@0:45 I love how people who have no idea are so confident about what they are saying..
I discovered your channel recently as a newbie to 3D printing, and I have to say - it's been an incredible asset in getting me started! Your videos are just so clear, concise, and well-edited. Great work! 👍
It's so good to see a channel that actually tests these things, rather than just telling you just to do something, without any reasoning behind it.
Thanks for doing this video. I don't know how many times I've got in to arguments with people about this, especially after I switched to a MicrSwiss all metal hot end. I've been called every name in the book for telling people that if anything you're making your hot end unstable (the wiggle you got) by removing those, and that if they weren't supposed to be there, then they wouldn't have engineered it that way.
Enjoy your vindication over silly people.
This was really helpful. I ended up doing a few prints without the alignment screws thinking it helped solve my extruder skipping problem, but you're the second person that pointed out that without them, the heat break is only being held on by that set screw. The hot end is not something that should ever be potentially loose
If the grub screw isn't tightened down enough, your hot end can droop and eventually snag on your bed like mine did when I took those screws out. My screws are back in place!
Me 2
awesome video.... I'm glad you covered this as I've had issues of filament getting stuck in my PTFE tube in the past.
By far, you are one on the best in explaining and probing concepts. Thank you for all your hard work.
Good work, Chuck. I always like to see rumours like this either proven or disproven. I would have been happy with either outcome, just glad to see someone do some actual measurements.
Wow!!! Thank you so much!! My ender 3 is in the mail and I keep seeing everyone saying to remove those and it didnt seem to make any sense and you verified it for me!
Only seen a couple of your videos but they have all been great so far gonna keep checking them out!! keep up the good content!
Thank you! I was close to taking these out, due to recommendations from that 3D Printed Horrors guy, but ran into your video first. I'll leave it be and focus on other settings.
Great work. Having the heat block rotate, changing the nozzle height in the process as it does it a right royal pain. It's a good job they're there.
i love it when arguments are settled scientifically! You sir are my kind of guy!
I am new to the 3D printing world and had heard about removing those screws. I was going to look into it on my Ender 3. Then I saw your video thanks I think you saved my butt.
Thank you, im new to all this and its awesome to see some real world tests and not just hypothetically
Cheap thanks for the clarification on those 2 screws. I no longer pull out the filament when I go for a color change I just push the new thru until I see the new color come out of the nozzle, I haven’t experienced any blockage issues changing the filament out this way.
The machines are made in China, anything not necessary would have been removed long ago.
Ain't that the truth!
Speaking as a manufacturing engineer who worked with China based manufacturers for decades, I can only WISH that your reasoning and logic applied to Chinese MEs and designers… but I assure you it does not.
Do not ever expect logical design decisions- yes, even those affecting cost - from a Chinese shop. ;D
@@railgap Lol
THANK YOU! Saving this for the next 20 times it gets brought up on ThingiVerse and Facebook.
No debate anymore! You Busted it! 🤯 Very nicely done CHEP! 🤘
Solid testing method and results, Much appreciated!
Great video great research. Thank you for all the hard work you do for the 3D printing community. Its greatly appreciated.
Thank you for the test! No BS and straight forward!
That's what I was thinking as well. Those Screws have a function and they are not heating up the Coolingblock, the PTFE tube, or the filament... Great Video Chuck
Good method of testing, accurate and scientific. Nice work.
Been a while since I've seen one of your videos. I seen this one because of the heat sink - it is the same one used on the Tronxy X1. But it does not have the the two screws. The heat block is held tightly in place by the nozzle pressing against throat inside the block.
This is very informative, even for my Tronxy X1.
Thank you.
I asked Creality the same question months ago, and got the same answer Naomi gave you.
Awesome work Chep!
This is good information backed up by solid data. Very well done with real information.
This is why you are awesome Chuck.
Saved me some time. I have been debating on whether or not they should be removed. I like them, makes nozzle changes easier. Thanks!
thanks. I was wondering about this, since I heard the same thing coming by last week. I haven't had any problems with it on my CR-1o either. good video.
Great video, thanks for debunking the myth!
Nice video, Chuck! Was great to respond to the comments that way and do a practical test to debunk that. Good stuff!
Sad part is there is a lot of screeching from people who still adamantly maintain that the screws 'MUST BE REMOVED OMG YOU NOOB'. It's like the old saying goes; A man convinced against his will, is of the same opinion still. Some people on the internet really don't understand how to handle being proven wrong, and just take it as a personal attack.
Best part of this for me was the tear down of the hot end. Such a simple device but it makes it easier to understand how problems happen and how to resolve them. I didn’t want to take mine apart due to warranty issues.
I took the screws out cause I listened to the voices.. lol . guess what? A gap ended up forming after about a kilo of printing. Blobs, leaks jams and wasted time. I'm putting them back in after everything is tight and square again
The two screws also make sure if you have a head crash it doesn't damage or snap the thin heat throat.
Good to know. Thank you for the info
Well Done Chep !! Super Test and Video
Straight as usual ! Thank you for sharing
Another great vídeo, CHEP!! Thanks for share!!!
I just stuffed on a genuine e3dv6 and it works great. A lot better than before!
Excellent video. Thank you for the info.
Nice myth busting! So many “old wive’s tales” get thrown around the 3D Printing world. I’m happy to see you taking a shot at doing some scientific experiments to get to the bottom of this one.
Good test Chuck....
On my Ender 3, I’ve left the hot end stock and it puts out quality prints as nice as my MK3, that I also haven’t changed. Sometimes nicer. All I usually use is PLA. I’ve only dabbled with PETG and nothing else yet. 😀
I love to see a myth busted with good hard evidence. Great work.
Great work, thank you!
Good on you; Thanks!
Good job Chuck. You certainly can't argue with the people that designed and build the printer. The heat sink is working well.
Cheers
Willy
There is already plenty to argue with Creality about with regards to their printer design, but those two heatblock screws are not one of those things.
Prior to this I also removed the screws believing the same thing.
Over time I did discover that the block gets loose and start to flap around in the breeze as I've kept changing nozzles.
I put the screws back in to stabilize it.
I'd say the stability these screws provide outweighs the tiny bit of added heatcreep. Especially if one changes nozzles a lot.
Thank you for the very scientific testing and conclusion. Better than an opinion or estimate!
Excellent scientific demonstration.
To add to this discussion, I had removed the two screws and printed something and the hot end literally fell down and gouged the entire magnetic bed, totally messed it up. DO NOT REMOVE THE SCREWS. Update, after replacing my print bed I was getting bad prints and didn’t know what was going on. I removed the fan cover to look at the hot end and found that while the hot end was raining hell on my print bed it had bent the hot end tube. I ordered a new hot end, lessons learned. Do not do everything a TH-camr does even when he or she is portrayed as a smart person and you think they are speaking on your behalf.
Good point - the single grub screw is not really enough to overcome gravity and the backpressure put on the hot end. I added another grub screw at the back to help out. The allen wrench that came with my extruder was just a little undersized. When tightening the grub screw you just can't get a good purchase on it before that sickening stripping feeling comes on. Turns out the threads were fine, it was the wrench slipping. Get a proper metric one and its as snug as a bug and you can haul off on it.
Very good test!
If those screws are stainless steel , there would be almost no heat come through that screws. Stainless steel has a very low heat conductivity.
You're great, Chuck! Thanks!
thanks again for good info!
I came across this video while looking for something else but I would like to say thanks.
Also I have a tronxy that has a similar hotend but doesn't have the screws and I have an Ender 3 that had them. I hate changing nozzles on the tronxy because the entire block comes loose. I would trade a little extra heat in the heatsink for the convenience of nozzle changes.
Thanks for the informative vid, i have a Tronxy X5S and it uses the cr heat block style less the 2 screws and my heat block moves, so those 2 screws do a very important job. Iv bought the cr10 heat block and now no issues.
Your setscrew is loose or not long enough to get enough force on the heatbreak
awsome video thanks for your information
Very useful video, thanks Chuck
Got a microswiss all metal for my CR-10S and they removed the 2 screws, yet there are threaded holes in their cold side (heat block had no holes so screws were not an option). Never an issue no using them. If I put the original CR-10's heat block on then I could use the screws... Microswiss knows something if they ditched the screws.
EDIT: Excellent video!
Great video Chuck!
I'll add my experience too - I "upgraded" to a Hero Me Gen5 printed out of PLA (as instructed) and I slowed all the fans too (incl. the PSU one) to make the printer near silent. Printing PLA was completely fine, but ABS (at 240C) heated up the coldend to near 60C and removing the extra 2 screws made it cool again (~33C). So the takeaway is that it might not matter for PLA and/or stock configuration, but it allowed me to print PETG/ABS at almost ambient noise levels.
Piece of mind is good. Thanks.
Thank you !
Good video! Kept me entertained! Do more like that!
Well done.
Great video Chuck
Nice test
Thanks for sharing :-)
My Hero...as usual...
I'm glad people like you Chuck are here to put all these "smart ass know it all" print nerds out there straight lol....
Nice job!
SCIENCE BABY!!
Well done..
Excellent, thanks 👍
I had heat creep which would jam up the filament, very often. Could not make a print. I made a duct for the heatsink fan, so the air would be forced over the heatsink. This worked much better. I then designed a printhead with a direct extruder and replaced the spring in the extruder with a bolt so the filament is gripped firmly. Now I have 0 problems.
Nice video. Never noticed the screws on my Ender 3, but I think I will keep them.
Those 2 screws sure make nozzle changes easier! It is very easy to have things loosen up and leak with out them, but like on an E3D V6.
Awesome video. Good to know my CR10 mini is ok as-is, lol. Didn't know about this "problem" until the video. Thanks for letting me know to "keep it moving folks; nothing to see here!"
Great content! I am really greatful you do such tests. It enables me to spend more time in developing and producing instead of investigating problems.
Actually hotend in ender 3 is well designed. This part contibuted largly why those printers are so popular. Those screws not only prevent heater block from being lose they also prevent snaping heatbreak when changing nozzle.
If they are worried about heat creep then change out the screws for stainless steel versions. Stainless steel has a very low radiosity (meaning it does does not transfer heat very well).
On mine I haven't actually experienced any real heat creep issues, Heck, I've done nozzle swaps with the fan shroud away from the hotend entirely for a good few minutes and the heat sink was still safe to handle.
Excellent!
Nice to know !
Hey! I have exactly the same set of screwdrivers! Just realized.
Well played my friend, you win
great video, thak you
I love that you went to the Sexy Cyborg for an official comment.
I'm not surprised the heat creap isn't an issue, but I am surprised you don't have issues with plastic oozing out if the top of the heater block without the nozzle tightened against the heat break. I've had that happen to be a couple of times.
Joe Well why would the nozzle not be tight against the heat break? That just means things weren’t timed out correctly and your nozzle is tightened against the heat block and not the heat break.
I think the confusion is Microswiss says TO remove them. That night be the case with their cooling block but I can see that with the default one. Thanks Chuck!
The microswiss design is pretty poor. They've done quite a lot of questionable changes recently to reduce fabrication costs.
Nice video!!! Thanks
Thanks!
Brilliant!