Blackhawk 247 I always say with some patience, and warmth, we could all do this kind of work. Just have to take your time, and go slow. Not sure on something, take a break and look it up. Don't see how to do it, pause work till yo find out. I feel that's part of the key. This still wasn't terribly difficult to do, aside from that rear cylinders intake side.
I took off the covers and stopped in order to make some "tools" to help with the job. I bought 4 12 inch 8- 32 rods and attached the feeler gauges to the ends. I bent a stainless steel screw that uses a square bit. This fits the adjustment bolt. I took a look and saw that the rocker can be adjusted on either side. I figure that the side to work on is the one with the spring under it. Thanks for the video.
Awesome work bud! But personally... I wouldn't DARE!!!!! LOL Great thing to have the tech knowledge to do serious work like that on your bike! The ones of us that don't... Simply PAY $$$$ (Love the punch/kick bag!) Rock ON my friend!
BigBadWolfMoto haha yeah that punch kick bag, I am gonna start using that again this week.. throw some heavy clothes on and go out n punch the shit out of it hehe... Yes I agree, find someone, or some place you trust there, and contract them to do the work. Now I need to synch the throttle bodies, but it's running decently smooth for now. Stay safe, and thanks for watching..
I have been hesitant to buy a new 1300 Custom just because I've read how hard it is to adjust the valves on the bike. While this doesn't look easy, it doesn't look that bad either. Thanks so much for the video! I'm going to buy this bike now. A bike I can't work on maintenance wise is a deal breaker for me.
Tom Lindquist I feel the same way. It honestly wasn't that bad. The hardest part is the rear intake valves. That's the tightest area to get to. I would, and did have to order the gaskets for the valve covers. I accidentally tore that rear intake cover one when putting it on, and it was leaking oil. It's all fixed now, and I ordered 2 ... just in case. I have hear others say you can use a nail will that tappet square opening in it, I couldn't find one in my area so I had to improvise a bit. I used a small alligator clamp and a some wire, or a spray bottle straw. Now I need to sync the throttle bodies, have to figure that part out, but it's not difficult. Figure once you do the valves once.. you can do them again super easy. Btw check out vstar1300wiki. Just google that name, and you will find tons of info on the bike. Also you can check out 1300 tourer website. I think www.1300tourer.com You can find my review on the bike th-cam.com/video/mLq3CjyjRAA/w-d-xo.html
Tom Lindquist most dealers will have a surplus of 2015s on sale . go to motorcycle kbb to get an idea of the value currently. you should be able to haggle with them easily . go on a day off , so you have time to go back n forth. If a dealer doesn't want to cut a deal, walk.
the fuel hose with the blue side pieces needs the plastic piece lifted and then pinch the blue pieces on each side to pull it off. It will leak a little fuel so be prepared!
Anthony Walden oh ok. Cool. I didn't bother messing with it, cause I didn't want to break it lol. I was able to work around it thankfully. Good to know for next time.
Just got to 21,000 and some miles on my Stryker and pretty sure it could use a valve adjustment. Congratulations on the new wheels too, seen that. The last time I had thr tank and fenders all off on mine was when I got it home the day I bought it and stripped it down for repainting in black. Fully de-badged, kinda miss how pretty it was in pearl white with the airbrush style decals
If they get really loud then that is usually how you will know they need some adjusting. On the normal they are a bit noisy . It's hell getting in there . Really annoying
@@dbest1aVlogs at first I was assuming it was my header gaskets which I did end up changing when I swapped the stock exhaust back on. Idk maybe the top end is just noisy but I'm definitely bringing to a shop for the valve adjustment. Also the front tire is original and dry rotted bad thankfully didn't pop on my long rides last season so its time for tires.
It's amazing what it takes to make our machines run, eh? Hard to believe I used to like doing this kind of work. I do it if I have to, but I don't like it. I'm getting old & crotchety. Good job taking care of your bike though!
gfish66 I hear you.. I don't mind as long as it's warm out. When it's warm out my fingers don't get all brittle lol... I've been a tinkerer for most of my life, so it's hard for me to kick the habit.. shoot look at my Buell 515 build stuff lol.. It just calms me.. stay safe gfish.... n warm..
Do you have any videos of taking off the tank for the v star 1300?? I want to run lights and speakers, and there are no videos on TH-cam showing what to do for the tank removal.... ugh. Help please!!!
I somewhat go into that in this video below at about 11 minutes. th-cam.com/video/D5RZRRbChS0/w-d-xo.html The black hose you see behind the tank has to be disconnected, but before that ... you turn off the fuelat the switch connected on that hose. Then there are 2 small houses on the clutch side that has to be disconnected. You have to stick your hand under the tank to get to them. N be sure you get them back on good, or your tank will suck in and dent itself.
No. There are a few ways it can be done .. 1. With tyranny fluid, but need 2 glass bottles and tubing . More on that is on the net. 2. Buy a synch machine. The specific calibration name slips me, but not hard to google and find. It's a digital machine that gives a digital read out of the pressure comparison. 3. Pressure gouges, 1 connected to 1 side and 2nd to other side. If I remember that's how I have them set up. Connect , start bike .. dial in compression fittings on air line , then adjust both reading to be close to same and matching manual spec.
jason reynolds lol, you really wanna know. well you know those red straws you get with carb/brake cleaner cans? That and a small alligator jaw clap. I crimped it to the straw.. then slowly made my turns.. snug the nut... then pull the gauge n tighen. I know having tool would be easier, just never planned in the purchase. I will in the future, I'm just used to working with what's around me.. like Mcguyver
Manny Soto In my later video , installing heated grips part 2 I talk a little about it. About mid way. Have to remove the seat. Remove the 2 bolts I show in the video. Remove the tank sensor tab , black plug. Slide tank back and lift up a bit. Reach under tnk on clutch side, there are two hoses under there twd the front. They have to be removed. If you peek under you can see them. You will need a Needle nose pliers with reach to get the little clips back on. Pita. Might be a little more info or pics and diagrams in the service manual.
Yeah you are very mechanically inclined to be doing work like this. The other day I barely took off my fuel tuner (power commander v) so that I could use my newly reflashed IVANS ECU tune. I did it, but it was really confusing and on top of that, I had to removed all the lighting wires and harness that the previous owner had all under the seat and all over the bike. It was a MESS! but I need to get my valves adjusted. I might try and find out if it can be done by a local mechanic or Yamaha themselves here in NE Texas. When I shift, there’s a little slop in between gear changes and I’m guessing that’s because I have 20K miles on the bike now. I ride harder than most on it.
Yes u could say I am . You also have to be careful not to drop anything while it's opened up. If the bikes running n you put your ear next to the valve covers n there is no abnormally loud tapping , bike should be fine especially at 20k. Yeah adding lights n wiring can be tough if not thought out . There's minimal space under there.
@@dbest1aVlogs appreciate the advice and response. I do t know what it is but it when I shift it’s like there’s slip between shift points. I thought that had something to do with the valves but like you said at 20K it’s probably not that. Maybe the cables ? But again thanks for clarifying not valves. Bike is otherwise solid. I rode a 2015 triumph rocket 3 tourer today 60 miles and that bike rips! But even just comparing to my Vstar 1300 it is close to keeping up
Could be clutch adjustment , but that usually is in regard to finding neutral. Other thi g could be the oil. If full synthetic it could make the clutch slip. Di o oil like rotella t4 sometimes can help as the synthetic will make it slip a bit more I've experienced
@@dbest1aVlogs that might be what it is! It could be the oil because recently I did the oil. I used yamalube oil though. If it’s the clutch I could look into adjusting or fixing that. The bike is all smiles per gallons though. lol Thanks for the advice 💯
Yamalube should be OK. IF I remember they use a blend of Dino and synthetic. If u adjust the clutch cable I'd follow the procedure in the service manual .. that's available in the files section of the Facebook forum vstar1300 .. your basically adjusting it to withing about 1 to 2 nickel gap.
faith biker I firmly believe if you can't , then find someone you trust to do it. Getting the work done when it's needed is what counts, and is the main idea. Thanks for watching faith biker, stay safe.
Nice valves! Come here often?? It's always good seeing peeps working on their own bikes?? I'm coming up on 35k, anything other than general maintenance I should be concerned about Bruce? ✌️
Ridin' Country For your bike, I would just have a copy of the field service manual. Maybe can be downloaded online. Then just have a look at the recommended service intervals. Then you can see what sorts of things need to be done and when. I know I need to lube the neck bearings, or whatever they are called, and repack the rear swing arm bearings. So I'm gonna do that when it warms up, and I get the progressive shock in. Man 35k on your bike, that's awesome. Stay warm.. I got some pellets from Lowes, that came from up in your area.. man they burn frigen hot.
What???? A guy who works on his own cars and motorcycles! Cut it out! You're making the rest of us look bad (Haha). You're probably the last real man left in America, B. Stay warm, Bud. I just saw the news and it appears that winter came back with a vengeance for you folks in the East.
Cool! Pretty easy job, I thought it was going to be tin he bucket and shims style of the inline 4 DOHC engines. My SOHC Honda has the same tappet adjustment screw system. Of course, I have to do this every 3000 miles on my old bike.
motonut Did you notice them out of spec much at the 3000 miles? Yes, this def would be easier than a i4 , lol .. especially in a motorcycle. I won't be back in here till about 25 to 30k ..
My old Honda CB550 is inline four SOHC and needs this every 3-5k miles or one year. Not all valves are out of spec but some usually are. It is quite easy to do, very similar to yours, I just have to remove the tank and all eight of the tappets are accessible. Added to that I need to synchronize the carburetors also. These 70's bikes need frequent tuneups and frequent oil changes too. The 3k tuneup has a lot of little items and I usually do it every spring. I don't put a whole lot of miles on the bike anyway so I can get away by doing it once per year. Oil changes are two per year.
motonut sounds decent . Once done , it's not to bad to repeat. Yes I need to synch the throttle bodies. I wonder if the Africa has adjustable valves .. checking google.
Skeggy Cruiser The rear front cylinder yes. The rest are not that bad to get too. Have to remove the tank to pull the two radiator hoses. Thanks for watching.. I won't be doing this again for another 15k at least.
Manual give a good explanation how. Usually while rotating I'd hear a gush of air from the intake port or the spark hole .. then line up the mark as stated In the manual. Also when you check gap at tdc on compression stroke there should be some gap at the valves
I may have shown it in the Oxford heated grip install video. Basically remove seat Pull the two lower tank bolts Unplug black sensor wire. Slide tank back If u want to fully remove have to disconnect the 2 hoses on the underside.
As always...Great instructional video. Wish I had your mechanic "know-how". I imagine the fuel module is a new addition. Ride safe .
Blackhawk 247 I always say with some patience, and warmth, we could all do this kind of work. Just have to take your time, and go slow. Not sure on something, take a break and look it up. Don't see how to do it, pause work till yo find out. I feel that's part of the key. This still wasn't terribly difficult to do, aside from that rear cylinders intake side.
I took off the covers and stopped in order to make some "tools" to help with the job. I bought 4 12 inch 8- 32 rods and attached the feeler gauges to the ends. I bent a stainless steel screw that uses a square bit. This fits the adjustment bolt. I took a look and saw that the rocker can be adjusted on either side. I figure that the side to work on is the one with the spring under it. Thanks for the video.
Yea i can see that making it easier, and having Clay fingers. It sucks getting in there. I dont have any intention of doing it again either..
Awesome work bud! But personally... I wouldn't DARE!!!!! LOL
Great thing to have the tech knowledge to do serious work like that on your bike!
The ones of us that don't... Simply PAY $$$$
(Love the punch/kick bag!)
Rock ON my friend!
BigBadWolfMoto haha yeah that punch kick bag, I am gonna start using that again this week.. throw some heavy clothes on and go out n punch the shit out of it hehe...
Yes I agree, find someone, or some place you trust there, and contract them to do the work.
Now I need to synch the throttle bodies, but it's running decently smooth for now.
Stay safe, and thanks for watching..
I have been hesitant to buy a new 1300 Custom just because I've read how hard it is to adjust the valves on the bike. While this doesn't look easy, it doesn't look that bad either. Thanks so much for the video! I'm going to buy this bike now. A bike I can't work on maintenance wise is a deal breaker for me.
Tom Lindquist I feel the same way. It honestly wasn't that bad. The hardest part is the rear intake valves. That's the tightest area to get to. I would, and did have to order the gaskets for the valve covers. I accidentally tore that rear intake cover one when putting it on, and it was leaking oil. It's all fixed now, and I ordered 2 ... just in case. I have hear others say you can use a nail will that tappet square opening in it, I couldn't find one in my area so I had to improvise a bit. I used a small alligator clamp and a some wire, or a spray bottle straw. Now I need to sync the throttle bodies, have to figure that part out, but it's not difficult. Figure once you do the valves once.. you can do them again super easy.
Btw check out vstar1300wiki. Just google that name, and you will find tons of info on the bike. Also you can check out 1300 tourer website. I think www.1300tourer.com
You can find my review on the bike
th-cam.com/video/mLq3CjyjRAA/w-d-xo.html
Outstanding! Thank you so much for all the help and advice! Now the fun part, shopping!
Tom Lindquist check out the wiki, you will get some tips on what to look for. Facebook has Vstar 1300 pages also. What year are you thinking?
2015 just because I see good deals on new ones.
Tom Lindquist most dealers will have a surplus of 2015s on sale . go to motorcycle kbb to get an idea of the value currently. you should be able to haggle with them easily . go on a day off , so you have time to go back n forth. If a dealer doesn't want to cut a deal, walk.
the fuel hose with the blue side pieces needs the plastic piece lifted and then pinch the blue pieces on each side to pull it off. It will leak a little fuel so be prepared!
Anthony Walden oh ok. Cool. I didn't bother messing with it, cause I didn't want to break it lol. I was able to work around it thankfully. Good to know for next time.
Just got to 21,000 and some miles on my Stryker and pretty sure it could use a valve adjustment. Congratulations on the new wheels too, seen that. The last time I had thr tank and fenders all off on mine was when I got it home the day I bought it and stripped it down for repainting in black. Fully de-badged, kinda miss how pretty it was in pearl white with the airbrush style decals
If they get really loud then that is usually how you will know they need some adjusting. On the normal they are a bit noisy . It's hell getting in there . Really annoying
@@dbest1aVlogs at first I was assuming it was my header gaskets which I did end up changing when I swapped the stock exhaust back on. Idk maybe the top end is just noisy but I'm definitely bringing to a shop for the valve adjustment. Also the front tire is original and dry rotted bad thankfully didn't pop on my long rides last season so its time for tires.
It's amazing what it takes to make our machines run, eh? Hard to believe I used to like doing this kind of work. I do it if I have to, but I don't like it. I'm getting old & crotchety. Good job taking care of your bike though!
gfish66 I hear you.. I don't mind as long as it's warm out. When it's warm out my fingers don't get all brittle lol... I've been a tinkerer for most of my life, so it's hard for me to kick the habit.. shoot look at my Buell 515 build stuff lol.. It just calms me.. stay safe gfish.... n warm..
Do you have any videos of taking off the tank for the v star 1300?? I want to run lights and speakers, and there are no videos on TH-cam showing what to do for the tank removal.... ugh. Help please!!!
I somewhat go into that in this video below at about 11 minutes.
th-cam.com/video/D5RZRRbChS0/w-d-xo.html
The black hose you see behind the tank has to be disconnected, but before that ... you turn off the fuelat the switch connected on that hose.
Then there are 2 small houses on the clutch side that has to be disconnected. You have to stick your hand under the tank to get to them. N be sure you get them back on good, or your tank will suck in and dent itself.
Dbest1a’s Ride thanks bro. I will give that a shot
Great Video, Thank you. Did you make a video of the sync the throttle bodies?
No. There are a few ways it can be done ..
1. With tyranny fluid, but need 2 glass bottles and tubing . More on that is on the net.
2. Buy a synch machine. The specific calibration name slips me, but not hard to google and find. It's a digital machine that gives a digital read out of the pressure comparison.
3. Pressure gouges, 1 connected to 1 side and 2nd to other side. If I remember that's how I have them set up.
Connect , start bike .. dial in compression fittings on air line , then adjust both reading to be close to same and matching manual spec.
I notice that you said you don't have the tappet tool. What did you use to actually adjust the screws?
jason reynolds lol, you really wanna know.
well you know those red straws you get with carb/brake cleaner cans? That and a small alligator jaw clap. I crimped it to the straw.. then slowly made my turns.. snug the nut... then pull the gauge n tighen.
I know having tool would be easier, just never planned in the purchase. I will in the future, I'm just used to working with what's around me.. like Mcguyver
Great Job! Do you have a video on how to take the gas tank out? I have a 2012 VStar 1300...
Manny Soto In my later video , installing heated grips part 2 I talk a little about it. About mid way.
Have to remove the seat.
Remove the 2 bolts I show in the video.
Remove the tank sensor tab , black plug.
Slide tank back and lift up a bit.
Reach under tnk on clutch side, there are two hoses under there twd the front. They have to be removed. If you peek under you can see them.
You will need a Needle nose pliers with reach to get the little clips back on. Pita.
Might be a little more info or pics and diagrams in the service manual.
@@dbest1aVlogs I was going to ask exactly this, plus a video on checking the drive belt tension. Thanks
Checking belt tension is written out in the service manual , which can be downloaded from the Facebook forums.
@@dbest1aVlogs thanks.
Yeah you are very mechanically inclined to be doing work like this. The other day I barely took off my fuel tuner (power commander v) so that I could use my newly reflashed IVANS ECU tune.
I did it, but it was really confusing and on top of that, I had to removed all the lighting wires and harness that the previous owner had all under the seat and all over the bike.
It was a MESS!
but I need to get my valves adjusted. I might try and find out if it can be done by a local mechanic or Yamaha themselves here in NE Texas.
When I shift, there’s a little slop in between gear changes and I’m guessing that’s because I have 20K miles on the bike now. I ride harder than most on it.
Yes u could say I am . You also have to be careful not to drop anything while it's opened up. If the bikes running n you put your ear next to the valve covers n there is no abnormally loud tapping , bike should be fine especially at 20k. Yeah adding lights n wiring can be tough if not thought out . There's minimal space under there.
@@dbest1aVlogs appreciate the advice and response. I do t know what it is but it when I shift it’s like there’s slip between shift points.
I thought that had something to do with the valves but like you said at 20K it’s probably not that.
Maybe the cables ? But again thanks for clarifying not valves. Bike is otherwise solid. I rode a 2015 triumph rocket 3 tourer today 60 miles and that bike rips! But even just comparing to my Vstar 1300 it is close to keeping up
Could be clutch adjustment , but that usually is in regard to finding neutral. Other thi g could be the oil. If full synthetic it could make the clutch slip. Di o oil like rotella t4 sometimes can help as the synthetic will make it slip a bit more I've experienced
@@dbest1aVlogs that might be what it is! It could be the oil because recently I did the oil. I used yamalube oil though. If it’s the clutch I could look into adjusting or fixing that. The bike is all smiles per gallons though. lol
Thanks for the advice 💯
Yamalube should be OK. IF I remember they use a blend of Dino and synthetic. If u adjust the clutch cable I'd follow the procedure in the service manual .. that's available in the files section of the Facebook forum vstar1300 .. your basically adjusting it to withing about 1 to 2 nickel gap.
I wish I had the mechanical know how to do that kind of work. I would do more damage then good if I would try to do that to my bike. lol. Best to you!
faith biker I firmly believe if you can't , then find someone you trust to do it. Getting the work done when it's needed is what counts, and is the main idea.
Thanks for watching faith biker, stay safe.
Nice valves! Come here often?? It's always good seeing peeps working on their own bikes?? I'm coming up on 35k, anything other than general maintenance I should be concerned about Bruce? ✌️
Ridin' Country For your bike, I would just have a copy of the field service manual. Maybe can be downloaded online. Then just have a look at the recommended service intervals. Then you can see what sorts of things need to be done and when. I know I need to lube the neck bearings, or whatever they are called, and repack the rear swing arm bearings. So I'm gonna do that when it warms up, and I get the progressive shock in. Man 35k on your bike, that's awesome.
Stay warm.. I got some pellets from Lowes, that came from up in your area.. man they burn frigen hot.
Just a question why do you have to drain the antifreeze already change and decided to check valves great video thank you
If you look at the motor, you will see the radiator hoses running of the inspection caps. It also tells you to do so too.
That rear intake side sure was fun!
Anthony Walden haha, so true. Really need that tappet tool. Gotta check eBay. Life is easier with the right tools.
What???? A guy who works on his own cars and motorcycles! Cut it out! You're making the rest of us look bad (Haha). You're probably the last real man left in America, B. Stay warm, Bud. I just saw the news and it appears that winter came back with a vengeance for you folks in the East.
Dario C. Cruz heh, It sure did.. I had about 18-20!inches of snow outside ... omg.
Video to come..
Informative and fun.
nwroadrat Thanks, I didn't want to get to into it.For that one needs to look more into the manual. Now this whole area is snowpacked
looks good man hope to learn a lot more from you
Thank you . Any questions feel free to ask. No problem
Nice job Bruce. Come on over to my place. I have some stuff you could do on the bike. Haha.
Broncoride Hey don't tempt me .. I'll make a bobber out of it lol.
Cool! Pretty easy job, I thought it was going to be tin he bucket and shims style of the inline 4 DOHC engines. My SOHC Honda has the same tappet adjustment screw system. Of course, I have to do this every 3000 miles on my old bike.
motonut Did you notice them out of spec much at the 3000 miles?
Yes, this def would be easier than a i4 , lol .. especially in a motorcycle.
I won't be back in here till about 25 to 30k ..
My old Honda CB550 is inline four SOHC and needs this every 3-5k miles or one year. Not all valves are out of spec but some usually are. It is quite easy to do, very similar to yours, I just have to remove the tank and all eight of the tappets are accessible. Added to that I need to synchronize the carburetors also. These 70's bikes need frequent tuneups and frequent oil changes too. The 3k tuneup has a lot of little items and I usually do it every spring. I don't put a whole lot of miles on the bike anyway so I can get away by doing it once per year. Oil changes are two per year.
motonut sounds decent . Once done , it's not to bad to repeat.
Yes I need to synch the throttle bodies. I wonder if the Africa has adjustable valves .. checking google.
The Africa Twin has the new honda style bucket and shims. You have to take the whole top of the engine off for it.
motonut Yeah I saw .. they say the intake is like you say, and exhaust is this type with the stud and nut.
Could you explain why you have to drain the cooling system?
To lower the level of antifreeze below the hoses
Normally I don't mind working on the bike, but I gotta admit they look a bitch to get to, well done bro, RSM8.
Skeggy Cruiser The rear front cylinder yes. The rest are not that bad to get too. Have to remove the tank to pull the two radiator hoses.
Thanks for watching..
I won't be doing this again for another 15k at least.
How do we make sure the motor is top dead center on the compression stroke before we adjust the valve?
Manual give a good explanation how.
Usually while rotating I'd hear a gush of air from the intake port or the spark hole .. then line up the mark as stated In the manual. Also when you check gap at tdc on compression stroke there should be some gap at the valves
Man would like to see a video of you removing that tank
I may have shown it in the Oxford heated grip install video. Basically remove seat
Pull the two lower tank bolts
Unplug black sensor wire.
Slide tank back
If u want to fully remove have to disconnect the 2 hoses on the underside.
Can i replace my 2007 xvs1300 ecu using 2014 xvs950 ecu?
NO. 2 different bikes.
I don't want no fn valve adjustment.
Yeah it's not that bad .
They made a great bike but some of the maintenance is crazy a f1 car is easier
Yea, but if you take your time... you do it, and do it right.
Thanks for watching
Stay safe
I think I'll just spend the $175 for yamaha to do this....
Definitely do so if it's that cheap.