All the fuss about pressure can be controlled and eliminated by understanding the internals. If I understand the various chambers correctly you have one air chamber - separated by the IFP (which is free to move) from the lower oil chamber which is separated by the actuator valve from the inner oil chamber. It is this inner oil chamber that takes the force when you sit on the post. If air gets into that inner oil chamber the post sags. When you open the actuator you link those 2 oil chambers, allowing you to push the lower actuator tube into the top post displacing a volume of oil equivalent to the volume of the actuator tube. This in turn pushes the IFP up and increases pressure in the sir chamber. That pressure allow the post to return when the actuator is pushed. The IFP should be free to move to equalized any pressure between air side and air that has got into the oil side. If you release the pressure then remove the schrader valve core you can eliminate any pressure from the air side of the IPF. That should be enough for the IFP to move and the inner (damper) tube to move to remove any pressure from the other two chambers. If however either IFP or inner tube gets stuck pressure can remain. This can be eliminated by operating the actuator and moving the inner tube up and down a few times. I believe that if you follow this procedure these posts can be serviced just as safely as the RockShox ones and shouldn't have any surprises. Simple process, release pressure, remove valve core, operate post a few time. Can anyone that has disassembled one of these confirm my understanding? (Stealth posts are typically less susceptible to getting sag because when you pull up on the post, by lifting the bike by the saddle, it creates a negative pressure in the inner oil chamber that attempts to draw oil from the other oil chamber - which isn't a problem. On non-stealth posts pulling up on the post typically creates a negative pressure in the middle chamber which pulls air past the IFP into the oil chamber making it spongy and producing sag.)
In a nutshell, Yup! Similar to a shock/fork but with a chamber to allow of a fixed binary position. As for your question, I believe both stealth and non-stealth versions of KS posts have a propensity to sag if pulled by the saddle. I can definitely say this can happen to the stealth version experience.
Thank you very much for the kind words. below is a link. Any soft jaw with 25mm and 10mm hole will work for this job, so if you find one that costs less I'd consider it www.ebay.com/itm/144285821328?itmmeta=01J43A73Y9DZ7CR6CX7B4YEHHG&hash=item21981ae990:g:PEEAAOSwaRlhjILO
Glad to hear the video was of interest to you. the tool is a spanner tool. the one in the video is a park tool spa 2. relative low cost tool. let me know if there are any other questions.
Thanks a lot for the clear and informative video! I have a LEV integra that does not want to come up by itself. I opened it up and it was very dirty inside, I even found quite a bit of rust on the roller bearing and on one of the guide bushing channels. I did the full maintenace as indicated by KS, but it seems like it actually became worse. There seems to be quite a lot of friction between the guide bushings and the outer shell, but I can still move it up and down by hand, is this normal? In your video it also seems like you need quite a bit of force to move it up and down. Now I'm trying yo figure out if it might be the cartridge. I have no sag issues, but the strange thing is that when I help the dropper to extent and then push it back in using my own bodyweight, it releases some air at the cap of the cartridge. Does that indicate I have a leak? Many thanks in advance!
"it releases some air at the cap of the cartridge. Does that indicate I have a leak" Yup! Air should NOT come out of the top cap. My best guess is that you don't have enough air pressure in the cartridge, and when you add air, a good amount of pressure seeps through. You will need a new seal. There are links in the description section to a picture that shows the seals and seal type, as well as links to each seal. Servicing the cartridge is easy. I wouldn't be intimidated by it. Follow the video, make sure to wear safety glasses, and don't point the shaft toward your body when releasing the pressure, and you will be good to go! 👍
Once again your video saved my dropper. It was leaking oil and I had to replace the u-seal for the shaft. Let me share a trick that I did to put the cap back without opening up the valve part. Remember you said you have to put it on the shaft from the top before assembling or else you won't be able to get it in? You can actually insert a 10mm OD vinyl tube through the seal then push it out using the shaft of the dropper :)
Great and detailed video with nice and clear explanation. i wonder if the files for the clamp (orange wt magnets) can be found somewhere so i can print it out! Thanx
Hi, after a long time how did you find the 5 WT oil? I'm following your great guide and you also talked about 3 WT oil, what do you recommend in hindsight? Thank you, your guide is very useful and I also ask you if you have decided to prepare the Oring kit to sell and ship.
Apologies for the delay, but I've been sUPER busy and traveling lately. If you plan to ride the dropper in colder temperatures, such as winter, 3wt oil will be beneficial. For regular temperatures, 5wt will work just fine. "I also ask you if you have decided to prepare the Oring kit to sell and ship" Actually, I haven't thought about this in quite a while. Are you in the US?
@@zoubtube Hello and thanks for the reply, I think I will use the 5wt since the average temperatures in Italy have risen considerably. While waiting for your response I purchased the O-Rings on the site you recommended, in Italy I had difficulty finding them with those strange acronyms, now I'm waiting for them to arrive. Thanks again for the very useful video 🙂 Good day.
Good video with very clear instruction. I have a unit of KS Lev Integra 2015 version, comes with my Lapierre Zesty 2015. Not sure if the internal catridge are the same. What are the spec and brand of oil used in the video?
Glad to hear you found the video informative. This video will work for a 2015 lev integra. As for oil, I used a 5wt in this video. if you ride in colder temperatures you can also use 3wt. hope this helps. thanks for taking the time to watch the video
Good tutorial!! Do you know if in the models like ks rage i , that seams to be close cartridge,we can do something like put more air inside?? Or there is not solution? Thanks!
Thanks for the comment.While I haven't had direct experience with Rage dropper, it's reasonable to assume that the cartridge designs share similarities with other models. However, it's important to note that specific components, like seals, might vary. The IFP design and filling process are likely to be similar. But without firsthand knowledge, I can't provide definitive information. Sorry, I couldn't be more helpful.
Great vid, thank you! This seems to be a generic problem for every KS Lev, which is ridiculous. Do you know what is the root cause of the sag and what is the best way to prevent it happen again / or prolong as much as possible? Mine I have to rebuild every 6 months :/
WOW! every 6 months seems excessive. My understanding is SAG is due to air escaping the IFP chamber. The result is basically the same as having a bubble in a brake line. I find that winter riding, or cold weather riding in general, increases the chance of developing it. My guess is the seals are stiffer due to the cold weather, which doesn't allow them to conform to the ifp and ifp tube as they do in warmer weather. Also, the oil gets a bit thicker (for lack of a better word) in cold weather, putting more pressure on the seals. So air can make it around them when pressure is applied. The biggest reason I would say the seals just naturally wearing down due to use. this is normal. Have you ever replaced the seals in you dropper? or are you rebuilding to remove sag using the existing seals
@@zoubtube I am watching your video right now :D (Just to see if there is any new concept / advice I have not heard about...) Thanks for your prompt reply!! Yes I am rebuilding it using the original seals. They look perfect. And yes, they might be worn down just a little so to let a little air escape. But the phenomena occurs from day 1, sag was developed very soon after I purchased it so I do not have big faith that I can fix this long term by using new seals. Cold weather is a great tip, the bike is in an unheated place during the winter. My other bet is to give the seals a good amount of silicone grease and see if they hold better.
@@balintkomjati It could very well be possible that one of the IFP seals was defective from the start. These things are rubber, they are spit out by a machine at high counts per minute, and the slightest defect that brings them out of spec will cause issues. If you decide to open the damper again, I would really consider replacing all IFP seals at a minimum. cost is very minimal. the description section has a link to a drawing that shows the seal locations and types, as well as a link to a shop here in the states that sells them. let me know if you have other questions
@@zoubtube shipping cost from thoringstore is 80+ usd to Europe :( Some people pay less for a bike :) I started to look into European o-ring webshops but the ID-s in the links above are not generic, and it looks pretty complicated to pick the same (or closest) rings available. Do you happen to have any experience or recommendation how to move forward? Ever heard anybody ordering from EU before?
Now, reading comments like this, ALWAYS makes my day! 🙂I'm so glad to hear it worked out for you. Apologies for the late response, and thank you for taking the time to watch the video
Thank you a lot for this titanic labor that you put into this video🫡 I have Brand X Ascend dropper 170mm 30,9mm with internal cable routing, been searching for days for any guides or smth else with no results 😢 I wish I’d found your video earlier because ordered a new dropper😅 Anyway, I’ve got challenged trying my dropper to fix without replacing old rubber rings, because sag hasn’t eliminated after. Think that the problem in my case is really depends on replacement those O- and Quad-rings 😢
I'd have to assume that if you serviced the cartridge by only changing the oil, and there are no oil leaks after the service, and the post is still sagging (or sags after little use), then the chances are that one of the seals is worn out. If I was to guess which seal, I would say it's most likely one of the IFP seals. The seals aren't expensive and if you have the time and tools, it can be a fun project to try. 👍
I had it apart, assembled it and it worked. However their was an air sound during motion. So I did some research and found ur video. Gear vid. However now when I re assemble I can't add air. It's like the valve is blocked. But the core is good and I can add air when it's taken apart. My valve dosent pop out like yours. I have a nut on the outside that none of my sockets will fit into, but everything else is the same. Any ideas?
"My valve dosent pop out like yours" what year is your LEV? You're saying that the valve has a nut at the base that stops the valve head from being removed from the cartridge body? Interesting. From what I know, after removing the IFP rod from the cartridge body, you would typically apply pressure on the actual valve in order to pop the valve assembly out of its socket. Depending on how well it sits, it can require a good amount of pressure to remove. You might even need to use a dowel as leverage to pop the valve assembly, just make sure the dowel is larger in diameter than the valve. The LEV cartridge has basically been the same for quite a while. It's possible yours is different based on the revision but knowing the inside of that cartridge I just can see what would stop you from removing the valve on the other side as long as the IFP rod has been removed . Let me know. thanks
@@zoubtube yup. The valve is there, but there is a nut and washer at its base. It's just weird that I had it all apart once, except I didn't remove the tube or the black IFP body...it was an old seized post. After cleaning it up I re assembled and it worked (asside from some air sound suction sounds). That's why I took it apart again, after watching ur video and now after assembly, air won't go into the valve. Weird I know. Without the tube, air goes into the valve fine. If I were to add the tube and IFP then add air, it pops the tube and IFP body out as expected. It pressurizes the annulus between the tube and the post. Can't figure out why it won't take air after I re assemble. Perhaps I'll try replacing the valve core.
Odd that the valve assembly doesn't want to come out. The air goes around the outer part of the IFP rod. The oil is inside the rod with the damper head. The IFP goes up and down the rod when the post goes up and down. Assuming the valve isn't broken, it might be possible that the IFP is sitting or stuck at the top part of the IFP rod for some reason. This would block just about all air that can go in. it might seem like a bit of a PITA, but your best might be to open it up, remove the damper rod and IFP rod (don't disassemble them) test the valve assembly with the pump now that It's exposed to make sure air goes through. If it does, then you know the valve is good. Reassemble everything as seen in the video. Make sure that the IFP is a couple of mm from the bottom of the post when install the rod. Wish I could get access to it. Got my curiosity now. Let me know how it goes.
@@zoubtube thanks for the feedback. I didn't explain it that well in message, but what u described is exactly how I tested the valve and re assembled the rod/tube, IFP and damper. I'm also using the same shock pump as before when it did work. I'm gonna see if I can get another shock pump(unlikely the cause but I'll try) and replace the valve core. 🤷
@@zoubtube hey... figured it out. The damper plug/cap (what u use the spanner wrench for was too tight). I guess too far down the post. Perhaps pressing on the ifp tube too much to let the air into the outer annulus (between tube and post). Go figure. I started analyzing every step and making adjustments. I only backed the plug off by 1/8 of a turn from having it quite tight/snug. New one to add to ur mental tool box. Tks for the replies. 👍
Can you do me a favor and point out the time code in the video that you are referring to. My brain is like much at the moment (I desperately need sleep) and I can't think of the the pin you are referring to. thanks
@@zoubtubeappreciate it! I got everything else being delivered soon. I think I'm gonna replace all the seals minus this one and the optional seal. Hopefully eliminate my sage. Thx for the video it's awesome!
@@Rickydbaby Once the cartridge is open your going to be surprised by how easy it is to service. IMO, KS should make this a serviceable cartridge. I wouldn't be surprised if they would end up making more profit on selling seal kits than just cartridges. Just remember. First removed all the air from the top valve. Then when removing the bottom cap, make absolutely sure that the shaft and cap are not pointed at you, or anyone else, in any way. There will be pressure and it will want to pop out. Also, at the end, when it comes time to screw in the bottom cap to finish the job, make sure you thread the ca in by hand for as far as you can take it to be absolutely sure that it's not cross threaded . The metal the cap is made of is very soft. you don't want to strip the threads.
@@zoubtube appreciate all the insight and help and steps. You've helped a ton. I already got it apart on your video. I'm just waiting on the last few o rings to come in. I'm gonna replace the guide bushings and put them in three new slots in the outer shaft and replace the upper roller bearing as well. Waiting on parts and hopefully get it back together in a few days. Very easy as you d stated. Looking forward to hopefully having a solid dropper again!
@@zoubtubeI got it done. Dropper feels brand new. Thank you so much! I think the hardest part was assembling it and getting the shaft into the ifp without going in to far. I had to try it a few times before I got it. I also replaced my roller bearing guide pins and used a fresh 3 slots this time. Greased up the channels and guide pins and it's working really nice!
53:39 sorry but i must stop watching , you use the wrong tool , the proper tool must be a step bend flat scoop , witch can be made easily from a spoke ... and those noob level , waste of time explanations a the beginning of video , i have a hard time to skip them , in fact i was curious at the piece order and the method of assembly , the whole video should be 5 minutes
Merry Christmas! KS doesn't provide any information to the public on servicing this post because they DON'T want people to service it. The point of the video is to help those who still have one to service it instead of buying a new cartridge (or a new post) when it fails. As for the length and extra explanation. Admittedly my videos can be long, BUT, my target group of people isn't professionals who work on bike parts everyday. it's for people who are intimidated by performing these types of services on their own. I want to make them feel as comfortable as possible and provide them as much information as I can in order for them to gain the bit of confidence needed. and based on comments and feedback from people, I'm still short on info with some of my videos. it's a balancing act which I try to improve over time Feedback as a "better tool" for a part of a job that you mentioned is SUPER appreciated if it makes life easier for people. popping out the piston head seal is a bit of a PITA, if there is a better tool than a typical pick that will make it easier, i'm all about it. 👍
All the fuss about pressure can be controlled and eliminated by understanding the internals. If I understand the various chambers correctly you have one air chamber - separated by the IFP (which is free to move) from the lower oil chamber which is separated by the actuator valve from the inner oil chamber. It is this inner oil chamber that takes the force when you sit on the post. If air gets into that inner oil chamber the post sags. When you open the actuator you link those 2 oil chambers, allowing you to push the lower actuator tube into the top post displacing a volume of oil equivalent to the volume of the actuator tube. This in turn pushes the IFP up and increases pressure in the sir chamber. That pressure allow the post to return when the actuator is pushed. The IFP should be free to move to equalized any pressure between air side and air that has got into the oil side. If you release the pressure then remove the schrader valve core you can eliminate any pressure from the air side of the IPF. That should be enough for the IFP to move and the inner (damper) tube to move to remove any pressure from the other two chambers. If however either IFP or inner tube gets stuck pressure can remain. This can be eliminated by operating the actuator and moving the inner tube up and down a few times. I believe that if you follow this procedure these posts can be serviced just as safely as the RockShox ones and shouldn't have any surprises. Simple process, release pressure, remove valve core, operate post a few time. Can anyone that has disassembled one of these confirm my understanding?
(Stealth posts are typically less susceptible to getting sag because when you pull up on the post, by lifting the bike by the saddle, it creates a negative pressure in the inner oil chamber that attempts to draw oil from the other oil chamber - which isn't a problem. On non-stealth posts pulling up on the post typically creates a negative pressure in the middle chamber which pulls air past the IFP into the oil chamber making it spongy and producing sag.)
In a nutshell, Yup! Similar to a shock/fork but with a chamber to allow of a fixed binary position. As for your question, I believe both stealth and non-stealth versions of KS posts have a propensity to sag if pulled by the saddle. I can definitely say this can happen to the stealth version experience.
Only video I found explaining in detail on how to fill with oil and reinsert the piston. I've finally removed any sag in my dropper 😊
Really glad to hear it helped you. More videos to come. Now go out there and enjoy that sag free post! 👍
AMAZING VIDEO.
Could you send links on to get the soft jaws?
Thanks for sharing.
Thank you very much for the kind words. below is a link. Any soft jaw with 25mm and 10mm hole will work for this job, so if you find one that costs less I'd consider it
www.ebay.com/itm/144285821328?itmmeta=01J43A73Y9DZ7CR6CX7B4YEHHG&hash=item21981ae990:g:PEEAAOSwaRlhjILO
Nice video
Sir what name tolls to open the shaft?
Glad to hear the video was of interest to you. the tool is a spanner tool. the one in the video is a park tool spa 2. relative low cost tool. let me know if there are any other questions.
@@zoubtube thankyou sir ☺
Anytime!
Thanks a lot for the clear and informative video! I have a LEV integra that does not want to come up by itself. I opened it up and it was very dirty inside, I even found quite a bit of rust on the roller bearing and on one of the guide bushing channels. I did the full maintenace as indicated by KS, but it seems like it actually became worse. There seems to be quite a lot of friction between the guide bushings and the outer shell, but I can still move it up and down by hand, is this normal? In your video it also seems like you need quite a bit of force to move it up and down. Now I'm trying yo figure out if it might be the cartridge. I have no sag issues, but the strange thing is that when I help the dropper to extent and then push it back in using my own bodyweight, it releases some air at the cap of the cartridge. Does that indicate I have a leak? Many thanks in advance!
"it releases some air at the cap of the cartridge. Does that indicate I have a leak" Yup! Air should NOT come out of the top cap. My best guess is that you don't have enough air pressure in the cartridge, and when you add air, a good amount of pressure seeps through. You will need a new seal. There are links in the description section to a picture that shows the seals and seal type, as well as links to each seal. Servicing the cartridge is easy. I wouldn't be intimidated by it. Follow the video, make sure to wear safety glasses, and don't point the shaft toward your body when releasing the pressure, and you will be good to go! 👍
Once again your video saved my dropper. It was leaking oil and I had to replace the u-seal for the shaft.
Let me share a trick that I did to put the cap back without opening up the valve part. Remember you said you have to put it on the shaft from the top before assembling or else you won't be able to get it in? You can actually insert a 10mm OD vinyl tube through the seal then push it out using the shaft of the dropper :)
Apologies for the late response. Glad to hear the video came in handy, and thanks for the tip. Next time I work on one of these i'll give it a shot 👍
Great and detailed video with nice and clear explanation. i wonder if the files for the clamp (orange wt magnets) can be found somewhere so i can print it out! Thanx
thank you very much. You shoudl be able to find files at the following link www.stlfinder.com/3dmodels/bench-vise-soft-jaws/
@@zoubtube thanx for a quick response. Keep up the good work.
Hi, after a long time how did you find the 5 WT oil?
I'm following your great guide and you also talked about 3 WT oil, what do you recommend in hindsight?
Thank you, your guide is very useful and I also ask you if you have decided to prepare the Oring kit to sell and ship.
Apologies for the delay, but I've been sUPER busy and traveling lately. If you plan to ride the dropper in colder temperatures, such as winter, 3wt oil will be beneficial. For regular temperatures, 5wt will work just fine.
"I also ask you if you have decided to prepare the Oring kit to sell and ship"
Actually, I haven't thought about this in quite a while. Are you in the US?
@@zoubtube Hello and thanks for the reply, I think I will use the 5wt since the average temperatures in Italy have risen considerably.
While waiting for your response I purchased the O-Rings on the site you recommended, in Italy I had difficulty finding them with those strange acronyms, now I'm waiting for them to arrive.
Thanks again for the very useful video 🙂
Good day.
Great video. I have two posts to work on. Did you decide to sell the parts kits?
Thanks
Apologies for the delayed response. Send me an email at zoubtube@hotmail.com if you get a moment
Good video with very clear instruction. I have a unit of KS Lev Integra 2015 version, comes with my Lapierre Zesty 2015. Not sure if the internal catridge are the same. What are the spec and brand of oil used in the video?
Glad to hear you found the video informative. This video will work for a 2015 lev integra. As for oil, I used a 5wt in this video. if you ride in colder temperatures you can also use 3wt. hope this helps. thanks for taking the time to watch the video
Good tutorial!!
Do you know if in the models like ks rage i , that seams to be close cartridge,we can do something like put more air inside?? Or there is not solution?
Thanks!
Thanks for the comment.While I haven't had direct experience with Rage dropper, it's reasonable to assume that the cartridge designs share similarities with other models. However, it's important to note that specific components, like seals, might vary. The IFP design and filling process are likely to be similar. But without firsthand knowledge, I can't provide definitive information. Sorry, I couldn't be more helpful.
@@zoubtube Thanks for the answer!
Great vid, thank you! This seems to be a generic problem for every KS Lev, which is ridiculous. Do you know what is the root cause of the sag and what is the best way to prevent it happen again / or prolong as much as possible? Mine I have to rebuild every 6 months :/
WOW! every 6 months seems excessive. My understanding is SAG is due to air escaping the IFP chamber. The result is basically the same as having a bubble in a brake line. I find that winter riding, or cold weather riding in general, increases the chance of developing it. My guess is the seals are stiffer due to the cold weather, which doesn't allow them to conform to the ifp and ifp tube as they do in warmer weather. Also, the oil gets a bit thicker (for lack of a better word) in cold weather, putting more pressure on the seals. So air can make it around them when pressure is applied. The biggest reason I would say the seals just naturally wearing down due to use. this is normal. Have you ever replaced the seals in you dropper? or are you rebuilding to remove sag using the existing seals
@@zoubtube I am watching your video right now :D (Just to see if there is any new concept / advice I have not heard about...) Thanks for your prompt reply!! Yes I am rebuilding it using the original seals. They look perfect. And yes, they might be worn down just a little so to let a little air escape. But the phenomena occurs from day 1, sag was developed very soon after I purchased it so I do not have big faith that I can fix this long term by using new seals. Cold weather is a great tip, the bike is in an unheated place during the winter. My other bet is to give the seals a good amount of silicone grease and see if they hold better.
@@balintkomjati It could very well be possible that one of the IFP seals was defective from the start. These things are rubber, they are spit out by a machine at high counts per minute, and the slightest defect that brings them out of spec will cause issues. If you decide to open the damper again, I would really consider replacing all IFP seals at a minimum. cost is very minimal. the description section has a link to a drawing that shows the seal locations and types, as well as a link to a shop here in the states that sells them. let me know if you have other questions
@@zoubtube shipping cost from thoringstore is 80+ usd to Europe :( Some people pay less for a bike :) I started to look into European o-ring webshops but the ID-s in the links above are not generic, and it looks pretty complicated to pick the same (or closest) rings available. Do you happen to have any experience or recommendation how to move forward? Ever heard anybody ordering from EU before?
Nice video… I learned a lot and i save my old dropper post. Thanks a lot.
Now, reading comments like this, ALWAYS makes my day! 🙂I'm so glad to hear it worked out for you. Apologies for the late response, and thank you for taking the time to watch the video
Thank you a lot for this titanic labor that you put into this video🫡
I have Brand X Ascend dropper 170mm 30,9mm with internal cable routing, been searching for days for any guides or smth else with no results 😢
I wish I’d found your video earlier because ordered a new dropper😅
Anyway, I’ve got challenged trying my dropper to fix without replacing old rubber rings, because sag hasn’t eliminated after. Think that the problem in my case is really depends on replacement those O- and Quad-rings 😢
I'd have to assume that if you serviced the cartridge by only changing the oil, and there are no oil leaks after the service, and the post is still sagging (or sags after little use), then the chances are that one of the seals is worn out. If I was to guess which seal, I would say it's most likely one of the IFP seals. The seals aren't expensive and if you have the time and tools, it can be a fun project to try. 👍
@ZoubTube - Do you know where I can purchase the plastic lower bushing seen at the end of your video?
Not sure which bushing. are asking about the Ucup that installs in the cartridge end cap?
I had it apart, assembled it and it worked. However their was an air sound during motion. So I did some research and found ur video. Gear vid. However now when I re assemble I can't add air. It's like the valve is blocked. But the core is good and I can add air when it's taken apart. My valve dosent pop out like yours. I have a nut on the outside that none of my sockets will fit into, but everything else is the same. Any ideas?
"My valve dosent pop out like yours" what year is your LEV? You're saying that the valve has a nut at the base that stops the valve head from being removed from the cartridge body? Interesting. From what I know, after removing the IFP rod from the cartridge body, you would typically apply pressure on the actual valve in order to pop the valve assembly out of its socket. Depending on how well it sits, it can require a good amount of pressure to remove. You might even need to use a dowel as leverage to pop the valve assembly, just make sure the dowel is larger in diameter than the valve. The LEV cartridge has basically been the same for quite a while. It's possible yours is different based on the revision but knowing the inside of that cartridge I just can see what would stop you from removing the valve on the other side as long as the IFP rod has been removed . Let me know. thanks
@@zoubtube yup. The valve is there, but there is a nut and washer at its base. It's just weird that I had it all apart once, except I didn't remove the tube or the black IFP body...it was an old seized post. After cleaning it up I re assembled and it worked (asside from some air sound suction sounds). That's why I took it apart again, after watching ur video and now after assembly, air won't go into the valve. Weird I know. Without the tube, air goes into the valve fine. If I were to add the tube and IFP then add air, it pops the tube and IFP body out as expected. It pressurizes the annulus between the tube and the post. Can't figure out why it won't take air after I re assemble. Perhaps I'll try replacing the valve core.
Odd that the valve assembly doesn't want to come out. The air goes around the outer part of the IFP rod. The oil is inside the rod with the damper head. The IFP goes up and down the rod when the post goes up and down. Assuming the valve isn't broken, it might be possible that the IFP is sitting or stuck at the top part of the IFP rod for some reason. This would block just about all air that can go in. it might seem like a bit of a PITA, but your best might be to open it up, remove the damper rod and IFP rod (don't disassemble them) test the valve assembly with the pump now that It's exposed to make sure air goes through. If it does, then you know the valve is good. Reassemble everything as seen in the video. Make sure that the IFP is a couple of mm from the bottom of the post when install the rod. Wish I could get access to it. Got my curiosity now. Let me know how it goes.
@@zoubtube thanks for the feedback. I didn't explain it that well in message, but what u described is exactly how I tested the valve and re assembled the rod/tube, IFP and damper. I'm also using the same shock pump as before when it did work. I'm gonna see if I can get another shock pump(unlikely the cause but I'll try) and replace the valve core. 🤷
@@zoubtube hey... figured it out. The damper plug/cap (what u use the spanner wrench for was too tight). I guess too far down the post. Perhaps pressing on the ifp tube too much to let the air into the outer annulus (between tube and post). Go figure. I started analyzing every step and making adjustments. I only backed the plug off by 1/8 of a turn from having it quite tight/snug. New one to add to ur mental tool box. Tks for the replies. 👍
How you took out the retaining pin?
Can you do me a favor and point out the time code in the video that you are referring to. My brain is like much at the moment (I desperately need sleep) and I can't think of the the pin you are referring to. thanks
Do you have extras of the Orings you would be willing to sell? If so do you have enough for a full rebuild?
actually do have left overs. Not sure what the best way is it to get them to you. what if I was to put them on ebay as a package and send a link?
@@zoubtubeI may be interested in buying an o ring kit as well if you have them still. Shoot me an email if so @
blitzkrieg5049@yahoo.com
Looks like I can source everything except can't find the polyurethane U seal the muu 10x15x3 link is dead. I'll keep searching.
Here you go
www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832649599396.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.77951802ncl4dg&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
@@zoubtubeappreciate it! I got everything else being delivered soon. I think I'm gonna replace all the seals minus this one and the optional seal. Hopefully eliminate my sage. Thx for the video it's awesome!
@@Rickydbaby Once the cartridge is open your going to be surprised by how easy it is to service. IMO, KS should make this a serviceable cartridge. I wouldn't be surprised if they would end up making more profit on selling seal kits than just cartridges.
Just remember. First removed all the air from the top valve. Then when removing the bottom cap, make absolutely sure that the shaft and cap are not pointed at you, or anyone else, in any way. There will be pressure and it will want to pop out. Also, at the end, when it comes time to screw in the bottom cap to finish the job, make sure you thread the ca in by hand for as far as you can take it to be absolutely sure that it's not cross threaded . The metal the cap is made of is very soft. you don't want to strip the threads.
@@zoubtube appreciate all the insight and help and steps. You've helped a ton. I already got it apart on your video. I'm just waiting on the last few o rings to come in. I'm gonna replace the guide bushings and put them in three new slots in the outer shaft and replace the upper roller bearing as well. Waiting on parts and hopefully get it back together in a few days. Very easy as you d stated. Looking forward to hopefully having a solid dropper again!
@@zoubtubeI got it done. Dropper feels brand new. Thank you so much! I think the hardest part was assembling it and getting the shaft into the ifp without going in to far. I had to try it a few times before I got it.
I also replaced my roller bearing guide pins and used a fresh 3 slots this time. Greased up the channels and guide pins and it's working really nice!
53:39 sorry but i must stop watching , you use the wrong tool , the proper tool must be a step bend flat scoop , witch can be made easily from a spoke ... and those noob level , waste of time explanations a the beginning of video , i have a hard time to skip them , in fact i was curious at the piece order and the method of assembly , the whole video should be 5 minutes
Merry Christmas! KS doesn't provide any information to the public on servicing this post because they DON'T want people to service it. The point of the video is to help those who still have one to service it instead of buying a new cartridge (or a new post) when it fails.
As for the length and extra explanation. Admittedly my videos can be long, BUT, my target group of people isn't professionals who work on bike parts everyday. it's for people who are intimidated by performing these types of services on their own. I want to make them feel as comfortable as possible and provide them as much information as I can in order for them to gain the bit of confidence needed. and based on comments and feedback from people, I'm still short on info with some of my videos. it's a balancing act which I try to improve over time
Feedback as a "better tool" for a part of a job that you mentioned is SUPER appreciated if it makes life easier for people. popping out the piston head seal is a bit of a PITA, if there is a better tool than a typical pick that will make it easier, i'm all about it. 👍