Even though this video is 3 years old I hope I can shed some more light on the subject. Back in the 70's I was involved with some engine experiments on locomotive fuel systems. They were 4400 hp v16 Alco's. The fuel inlet pressure was only 45 psi. The injection pressure was around 4000 psi. We discovered through instrument failure of pressure sensors that in operation the fuel rail was receiving transient pressure waves of more than 5000 psi and although these pressure waves were only microseconds in duration they were distroying the test equipment. The common rail pressure is around 30,000 psi, every issue with the pump operation is going to be greatly magnified. Timing is important to take as much stress out of the system as possible.
Your videos are so helpful that we can all learn from your videos who own a mondeo mk4 & mk5 to help us DIY for those who feel confident with spanners and a understanding of how it works.
Thanks very much for your clear explanation Alan, it sounds like a possible logical reason for the cambelts missing teeth. I don't own a 2.0 mk5 Mondeo, but I'm always interested in learning more about these modern engines that are getting more and more difficult to do good DIY jobs on all the time. ATB, Peter.
Hi Alan, this is not new info if I’m honest, the argument has been around since common rail came out. Always the same thing, don’t need to time up the HP pump, runs fine. The torsional vibration and camshaft drivetrain loading is the main and most important reason for correct HP pump timing. We used to work on Renault engined Vauxhall’s that had a geartrain valvetiming setup. People would change the HP pump and the geartrain would rattle leading to customer complaints. The reason was always the HP pump not being timed on fitment. This HP timing thing has been correct since the dawn of common rail but widely ignored. I think you have done a good thing pointing this out in a very clear and understandable way. Great videos and great entertainment. Cheers
mental mechanic Hi. Yes I have heard of some pumps need to be timed and others not.. I have even had a recon pump with notes in the box saying ... no need to time this pump up. Only now that I have had an engine problem which I can link to incorrect pump timing I am taking notice lol. Thanks for your comment .. it all helps to understand these things better
That would be referring to the pressure pulsations produced by the pump. The more gears, lobes or pistons in the pump evens out the pressure pulsations reducing values between the subsequent peaks and valleys produced. It would depend on creating a forcing function (pump pulsation frequency) close to the natural frequency of the chain drive inducing resonance. If that is the cause of the failure it amounts to gross oversight by Ford 'engineers'.
Thanks for this information! On www.mondeo-mk5.de we discussed about your video showing the sixteen broken valve rockers. Keep on producing such videos, we love them!
Like your thought train on fault finding. I had a recent 16 rocker smash up on a 308 2.0 HDI with a RHR engine. Teeth stripped from timing belt, replaced the rockers and refitted everything except the injectors. I tried to turn the motor over by hand and it locked up. Rechecked the timing marks .. all good. Removed the cam shafts (after endless bolts) and the engine turned over ok so it was not a bent valve (or 2). Very carefully replaced the cams, redid the timing, checked the rockers were not in the wrong place and turned the engine over by hand and lock up again. Checked the Cam shafts with a pair of spares I had. They did not match lobe to sprocket. Looks like the sprocket is a press fit and it looks like it has moved, chucked in the spare cams and a second hand High Pressure fuel pump. All systems go now.
The 3 litre TDV6 engines (also known as the lion engine) fitted to jaguar/land rover cars is the same. The high pressure fuel pump must be timed also. It is driven by a separate belt on the rear of one of the cylinder heads but if it is not timed it causes problems because if the power pulses. Whilst working in a land rover garage I came across this problem several times. Many people, including mechanics didn't believe that the pump had to be timed and as a result there were premature failures of components!
Alan, please correct me if I'm wrong...I have engine leaking around HPFP (everything works fine, so I guess only the gaskets need to be replaced as you talked on the other video), so if I'm not replacing the pump do I need all this blocking do? (with alignment peg and Camshaft, 6:05) If I take the pump out I could mark only the pump's gearwheel (just in case if it was moved) and after changing 2 gaskets and the sealing o-ring I would put the pump back as it was before.
technically what you are saying would work but it all depends on where the cam lobe in the pump is sitting as if it is under load..when you remove the pump the gear on the pump would move under spring pressure. if you do want to go ahead and remove the pump without the gear turning then i would loosen the three torx 30 screws on that little unit on the pump that the high pressure metal fuel pipe connects onto with a 17mm nut...lift that unit up a little to remove the spring pressure and then remove the pump carefully and mark it...if in doubt, its not that much more work to remove the top cam belt cover and pin the cam sprocket up,
@@alan4x thank you, you're right it's a risk the pump's gearwheel can move under pressure while removing (if the spring has not been loosened as you said, I guess I'll go the service manual way). I found out in the SM that this thin peg is for HPFP and the thick one is used when changing the timing belt. The SM also says to refer to the cooling system draining, so can you tell me... did you have to remove the coolant with any cooling system hose to get the HPFP out?
no you don't drain the coolant... there is a heater hose that comes off the thermostat housing which is kinda in the way but the pump comes out past it no problem. if you do time up the cam sprocket..the small hole will sit at dead on 6 o'clock
Hello Allan, I drive a mk3 Focus (2013) can you confirm that this engine DW10C (UFDB) with Delphi high pressure pump needs to be timed like in this video after it has been remounted? I believe it's the same as mk4 Mondeo 2 liter diesel (140 horsepower one). Thanks for your reply
hi no it is totally different....there is just a dog drive on the rear of your pump which slots into rear of camshaft no timing up required as far as i know
Hi there. Thank u for this precious info. I installed a new timing belt in a ahn engine, 2.0 hdi and I removed the hp pump.. I saw the marks on the pump and I aligned correctly. But after 5000 kms, the belt snaped. I still do not know what happened, i locked the camshaft but I used only 1 pin.. could it be that the cause? Thanks
It's like the 1.6 hdi PSA engine which they put in everything. You go to change the cambelt on a Volvo or ford and there is no mention of aligning or locking the fuel pump. In the Peugeot for example. It states you need you use a pin to align the fuel pump exactly the same engine , setup and procedures yet one mentions it the other doesn't ...
So, tell me Alan, if I want to just replace the leaking sealing (this famous one) between high pressure pump and engine cylinder head, I need to remove timing belt cover and put the timing pin to lock the camshaft? Or just remove pump, make a timing signs on in and put it back as it was? What do You think? By the way, I cannot find where is that timing pin for high pressure pump on that camshaft sprocket? My sprocket looks different from this in this video. How can I find it? Is it that slotted hole on sprocket, or round hole? I understand that the timing hole behind that sprocket (in the cylinder head) is in the different position (as in photo - at the bottom), it's not the same hole as for timing the cambelt. right?
Hi Alan big fan of your thanks for making great videos, I changed water pump and timing belt on ford galaxy (mk4 diesel 2.0) following your video (cam belt on mk5 mondeo) followed all the steps shown in your video, done perfect timing and all that car started and drove no problem thanks to you but only one issue I am having is on low RPM and in reverse it jarks and making noise but after lifting foot off the break and give gas it fine. Any idea what it can be.TIA
Real common problem when removing these fuel pumps due to there being two timing pins, one for TDC for belt replacement and one for fuel pump alignment, a lot of people line it up for TDC when replacing the fuel pump gaskets resulting in faults like you experienced. Basically fuel pump and camshaft fighting against each other and the weakest link at that point becomes the timing belt
Hello! i had this exact problem with a citroen jumper 2.0 hdi after resolwing head gasket failure, the pump was not alignet and the belt snapet and braked all lifters, then after second rebuild it crashed after 5000km and broke 8 lifters again, now replaced all and the cr PUMP is fited properly it runs fine now. Peugeot ,citroen,ford hdi/tdci all the same
from what you said or should i say read is that pump pressure at its peak needs to have a " balanced " and equal release of pressure, so that it does not have extreme highs and lows of pressure which will cause vibration in that pump or possible over pressure in system which can cause , possibly , extreme load to the valve system destroying the weakest point the belt .... does that sound logical .... any others point of view , welcomed .... thanks
Hi Alan, love your channel. Does the mk4/s-max mk1 2.0l tdci a fuel pump in the tank or does it have a transferpump at the high pressure pump on the engine?
Hi Alan, Love the videos, super informative and entertaining - a rare combination. Keep up the good work. I have a question. I have a 2015 Mk5 1.6 Euro5 diesel model. What are your top tips for keeping the car in tip top condition. Mine is at 100k kilometres and I want to get it to 200k kilometres. Because you have probably seen everything that can arise by now are there any preventative measures that should be done before any known item is likely to fail. The car is serviced regularly at Ford. I reckon this would make a great video. All and any help greatly appreciated.
there really is not much you can do apart from replace the oil and filter at regular intervals and also the fuel filter. some parts may fail just due to mileage and usage even if you are a careful driver
If the cam to pump gear is 4-1 it will reach peak pressure when each injector fires. Acting kind of like a hybrid between an old style rotary pump and a common rail pump.
Your welcome mate 😁 But thats the ting About ford they dont tell you S... and i have no idea what that other tool is for becaude there is no explaination from Ford 🤔
Hi Alan I've just watched your video about the pump timing. I changed my wet belt to a chain but I wasn't aware of pump timing. Will I need to strip it back down to check this. It seems to be running fine. It's a 1.8 transit connect 08 plate. Thanks Alan.
hendyrobertson Hi. On your engine I am pretty certain your high pressure pump is not timed but I am not 100% on that. What I will say... I have done countless chain conversations on those engines and only set the chain and can belts up... never the pump... the taxis that were chain converted at about 100k miles got sold off about 350-400k miles and never had a problem so I would say leave your car as it is
Hope you have been to the corner shop to buy some humble pie to give to the driver as an apology ref. last comment on video Interesting my pump is 180 degrees out and runs but not very well at high revs hence why last owner sold it after repair service cam belt change I was told HP pump. its okay ... I always asked why have a timing mark on then ? So five years later I am spurred on to change it now and compare results as my diagnostic software doesn't make sense
The real reason is to get the severe pulses from the single element pump happening in-between the pulses of the valve opening forces, it would have been sensible to read the ford manual before carrying out the job. If you get a pump pulse coinciding with a valve opening pulse it will overload the belt. Volvo use a 2 piston pump like a little V twin engine which gives two small pulses instead of one big one . so the don't need the pump timed. Timing the pump is nothing to do with injection timing by the way.. the ford 1.6 D PSA engine also needs the pump being timed to the correct position..
Alan,is the 2.0 litre engine in the MK5 the same as the MK4?! Meanning the Peugeot 2.0 HDI engine?! If yes that means that problem can happen the 2 litre MK4?! Cheers from Southampton
Monica alert. Status: Hot! That was a good one! :) The GULAG scene is great, too. Btw, do you happen to know whether 1.8 TDCI high pressure pump also needs to be timed?
@@alan4x cheers , got a massive piss stain oil leak from it , so going to take pump off and swear at it for a bit and try another gasket lol , love your channel :)
Like u said...american car with a french engine...it would've been easier to design the hpfp to be driven by the cambelt...so that u can see what u are doing...and therefore to set the correct timing pins to lock it when doing this replacement and knowing 100% that your hpfp position is accurate after the cambelt replacement is complete. But no...we like working twice dont we...💪🤘 french engineers that is..😤
And what is the price of new fuel pump? How many cases did you have with this problem and at what miles range? Thank you for all the great videos. Cheers.
Igor Markic Hi.. a new pump from ford will set you back around £700. Aftermarket pumps around £550. This is the first problem where I can relate a pump to cam belt damage
Igor Markic The car had done just over 80k miles for the pump to possibly cause the cam belt teeth to shred. Yes you can remove the spring from another pump and fit it straight onto the pump on your car
You didnt mention about timing the dog drive via the inspection window. When you take the square drive bolt out of the dog drive housing you can see a marked tooth. And as you said the dog can only go in 2 ways and one way will have the marked tooth in the window/ bolt hole the other wont. Just pointing this out incase you didn't know.
DodgingSpice Thanks for this I was unaware. That information was not shown on the ford etis page I was looking at so must be on a different page but all this information is very useful, thanks
Morning Alan i have been running this through my head and i just don't see it just supplies pressure to the rail how could it cause that kind of damage, anyway if you say it did i will accept it 100%, and Monika is hot, does your wife not watch the videos lol.
Mate, Not many have the balls to admit they could be wrong. And even bigger balls to thoroughly correct it.(not that it was wrong ,just bad timing) I think the politicians could learn a bit from you.
Even though this video is 3 years old I hope I can shed some more light on the subject. Back in the 70's I was involved with some engine experiments on locomotive fuel systems. They were 4400 hp v16 Alco's. The fuel inlet pressure was only 45 psi. The injection pressure was around 4000 psi. We discovered through instrument failure of pressure sensors that in operation the fuel rail was receiving transient pressure waves of more than 5000 psi and although these pressure waves were only microseconds in duration they were distroying the test equipment. The common rail pressure is around 30,000 psi, every issue with the pump operation is going to be greatly magnified. Timing is important to take as much stress out of the system as possible.
Your videos are so helpful that we can all learn from your videos who own a mondeo mk4 & mk5 to help us DIY for those who feel confident with spanners and a understanding of how it works.
cheers
Eureka moments are the best Alan.
Nice vid thanks! Does highlight a common issue with many suppliers these days.......lack of support information!!
Thanks very much for your clear explanation Alan, it sounds like a possible logical reason for the cambelts missing teeth. I don't own a 2.0 mk5 Mondeo, but I'm always interested in learning more about these modern engines that are getting more and more difficult to do good DIY jobs on all the time. ATB, Peter.
cheers
Thanks for sharing this info. I've learned something from watching this video to can apply in my every day job.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for taking the time to share that useful information
Good detective work Alan
Fantastic information Alan. Thanks for putting it out there.
excellent as always and of course the gorgeous Miss M
Hi Alan, this is not new info if I’m honest, the argument has been around since common rail came out. Always the same thing, don’t need to time up the HP pump, runs fine. The torsional vibration and camshaft drivetrain loading is the main and most important reason for correct HP pump timing. We used to work on Renault engined Vauxhall’s that had a geartrain valvetiming setup. People would change the HP pump and the geartrain would rattle leading to customer complaints. The reason was always the HP pump not being timed on fitment. This HP timing thing has been correct since the dawn of common rail but widely ignored. I think you have done a good thing pointing this out in a very clear and understandable way. Great videos and great entertainment. Cheers
mental mechanic
Hi. Yes I have heard of some pumps need to be timed and others not.. I have even had a recon pump with notes in the box saying ... no need to time this pump up.
Only now that I have had an engine problem which I can link to incorrect pump timing I am taking notice lol.
Thanks for your comment .. it all helps to understand these things better
Nice one bit of eye candy first and foremost right down to job in hand you never stop learning mate 😅😆👍👀🍺🍻
An excellent video Alan, Thankyou. Useful to know for future.
You're a life saver ! Have exactly same situation here !
The plot thickened. Well done sherlock 👍
Badgertronix
Lmao
Alan Howatt how can i conntact with you?
That would be referring to the pressure pulsations produced by the pump. The more gears, lobes or pistons in the pump evens out the pressure pulsations reducing values between the subsequent peaks and valleys produced. It would depend on creating a forcing function (pump pulsation frequency) close to the natural frequency of the chain drive inducing resonance. If that is the cause of the failure it amounts to gross oversight by Ford 'engineers'.
Excellent video 👍
Thanks for this information! On www.mondeo-mk5.de we discussed about your video showing the sixteen broken valve rockers.
Keep on producing such videos, we love them!
cheers, thanks
Like your thought train on fault finding. I had a recent 16 rocker smash up on a 308 2.0 HDI with a RHR engine. Teeth stripped from timing belt, replaced the rockers and refitted everything except the injectors. I tried to turn the motor over by hand and it locked up. Rechecked the timing marks .. all good. Removed the cam shafts (after endless bolts) and the engine turned over ok so it was not a bent valve (or 2). Very carefully replaced the cams, redid the timing, checked the rockers were not in the wrong place and turned the engine over by hand and lock up again. Checked the Cam shafts with a pair of spares I had. They did not match lobe to sprocket. Looks like the sprocket is a press fit and it looks like it has moved, chucked in the spare cams and a second hand High Pressure fuel pump. All systems go now.
Good info Alan.
Cheers
The 3 litre TDV6 engines (also known as the lion engine) fitted to jaguar/land rover cars is the same. The high pressure fuel pump must be timed also. It is driven by a separate belt on the rear of one of the cylinder heads but if it is not timed it causes problems because if the power pulses. Whilst working in a land rover garage I came across this problem several times. Many people, including mechanics didn't believe that the pump had to be timed and as a result there were premature failures of components!
Alan, please correct me if I'm wrong...I have engine leaking around HPFP (everything works fine, so I guess only the gaskets need to be replaced as you talked on the other video), so if I'm not replacing the pump do I need all this blocking do? (with alignment peg and Camshaft, 6:05) If I take the pump out I could mark only the pump's gearwheel (just in case if it was moved) and after changing 2 gaskets and the sealing o-ring I would put the pump back as it was before.
technically what you are saying would work but it all depends on where the cam lobe in the pump is sitting as if it is under load..when you remove the pump the gear on the pump would move under spring pressure.
if you do want to go ahead and remove the pump without the gear turning then i would loosen the three torx 30 screws on that little unit on the pump that the high pressure metal fuel pipe connects onto with a 17mm nut...lift that unit up a little to remove the spring pressure and then remove the pump carefully and mark it...if in doubt, its not that much more work to remove the top cam belt cover and pin the cam sprocket up,
@@alan4x thank you, you're right it's a risk the pump's gearwheel can move under pressure while removing (if the spring has not been loosened as you said, I guess I'll go the service manual way). I found out in the SM that this thin peg is for HPFP and the thick one is used when changing the timing belt. The SM also says to refer to the cooling system draining, so can you tell me... did you have to remove the coolant with any cooling system hose to get the HPFP out?
no you don't drain the coolant... there is a heater hose that comes off the thermostat housing which is kinda in the way but the pump comes out past it no problem.
if you do time up the cam sprocket..the small hole will sit at dead on 6 o'clock
Nice one Alan cheers!
Hello Allan, I drive a mk3 Focus (2013) can you confirm that this engine DW10C (UFDB) with Delphi high pressure pump needs to be timed like in this video after it has been remounted? I believe it's the same as mk4 Mondeo 2 liter diesel (140 horsepower one).
Thanks for your reply
hi no it is totally different....there is just a dog drive on the rear of your pump which slots into rear of camshaft no timing up required as far as i know
Hi there. Thank u for this precious info.
I installed a new timing belt in a ahn engine, 2.0 hdi and I removed the hp pump.. I saw the marks on the pump and I aligned correctly. But after 5000 kms, the belt snaped. I still do not know what happened, i locked the camshaft but I used only 1 pin.. could it be that the cause? Thanks
great info Alan
Very good info.
You do some prety nice content here!
It's like the 1.6 hdi PSA engine which they put in everything. You go to change the cambelt on a Volvo or ford and there is no mention of aligning or locking the fuel pump. In the Peugeot for example. It states you need you use a pin to align the fuel pump exactly the same engine , setup and procedures yet one mentions it the other doesn't ...
So, tell me Alan, if I want to just replace the leaking sealing (this famous one) between high pressure pump and engine cylinder head, I need to remove timing belt cover and put the timing pin to lock the camshaft? Or just remove pump, make a timing signs on in and put it back as it was? What do You think? By the way, I cannot find where is that timing pin for high pressure pump on that camshaft sprocket? My sprocket looks different from this in this video. How can I find it? Is it that slotted hole on sprocket, or round hole? I understand that the timing hole behind that sprocket (in the cylinder head) is in the different position (as in photo - at the bottom), it's not the same hole as for timing the cambelt. right?
Hi Alan big fan of your thanks for making great videos, I changed water pump and timing belt on ford galaxy (mk4 diesel 2.0) following your video (cam belt on mk5 mondeo) followed all the steps shown in your video, done perfect timing and all that car started and drove no problem thanks to you but only one issue I am having is on low RPM and in reverse it jarks and making noise but after lifting foot off the break and give gas it fine.
Any idea what it can be.TIA
Allan..i am replacing the diesel pump on a ford transit 2016 2.0 ecotec with timming belt...do i need to time the pump?
Real common problem when removing these fuel pumps due to there being two timing pins, one for TDC for belt replacement and one for fuel pump alignment, a lot of people line it up for TDC when replacing the fuel pump gaskets resulting in faults like you experienced. Basically fuel pump and camshaft fighting against each other and the weakest link at that point becomes the timing belt
cheers for that explanation
Good information to know thanks 👍
hi thanks for the info. 😀 Do you know if this applies to the Ford S-max mk2 as well?
Hello! i had this exact problem with a citroen jumper 2.0 hdi after resolwing head gasket failure, the pump was not alignet and the belt snapet and braked all lifters, then after second rebuild it crashed after 5000km and broke 8 lifters again, now replaced all and the cr PUMP is fited properly it runs fine now. Peugeot ,citroen,ford hdi/tdci all the same
when the pump is mounted on the motor and has diesel in it, does it spin easily or does it have to hold? For me, it turns easily after hard,
from what you said or should i say read is that pump pressure at its peak needs to have a " balanced " and equal release of pressure, so that it does not have extreme highs and lows of pressure which will cause vibration in that pump or possible over pressure in system which can cause , possibly , extreme load to the valve system destroying the weakest point the belt .... does that sound logical .... any others point of view , welcomed .... thanks
well these pumps are very precise pieces of engineering coupled with the high fuel pressure i well believe it
Hi Alan, love your channel. Does the mk4/s-max mk1 2.0l tdci a fuel pump in the tank or does it have a transferpump at the high pressure pump on the engine?
Spot on work that
Hi do you know anything about 2.2 mk3 mondeos st??
Thanks Alan that’s great I’m doing one of thous as I’m watching your video, timing it up as you say, fingers crossed 👍
good luck
@@alan4x thanks Alan all back together a few on and offs with ignition to get fuel up , BINGO sounds good 👌
By the way mine was on a Citroen relay van👍
Hi Alan, Love the videos, super informative and entertaining - a rare combination. Keep up the good work. I have a question. I have a 2015 Mk5 1.6 Euro5 diesel model. What are your top tips for keeping the car in tip top condition. Mine is at 100k kilometres and I want to get it to 200k kilometres. Because you have probably seen everything that can arise by now are there any preventative measures that should be done before any known item is likely to fail. The car is serviced regularly at Ford.
I reckon this would make a great video.
All and any help greatly appreciated.
there really is not much you can do apart from replace the oil and filter at regular intervals and also the fuel filter.
some parts may fail just due to mileage and usage even if you are a careful driver
If the cam to pump gear is 4-1 it will reach peak pressure when each injector fires.
Acting kind of like a hybrid between an old style rotary pump and a common rail pump.
Your welcome mate 😁
But thats the ting About ford they dont tell you S...
and i have no idea what that other tool is for becaude there is no explaination from Ford 🤔
Hi Alan I've just watched your video about the pump timing. I changed my wet belt to a chain but I wasn't aware of pump timing. Will I need to strip it back down to check this. It seems to be running fine. It's a 1.8 transit connect 08 plate. Thanks Alan.
hendyrobertson
Hi. On your engine I am pretty certain your high pressure pump is not timed but I am not 100% on that.
What I will say... I have done countless chain conversations on those engines and only set the chain and can belts up... never the pump... the taxis that were chain converted at about 100k miles got sold off about 350-400k miles and never had a problem so I would say leave your car as it is
That's brilliant Alan and thanks very much for your speedy reply.
Good info, thanks :)
Hi alan , would you know the settings for this subject on a transit 2.4 mk7?
Great video👍🤙
can help me how put in time the enginge to remplace the high fuel pump
No metal recycling bin?
Jon Whitton
Lol... truth is I only do that for a laugh and metal components are removed and put in a scrap metal pile
Please i need your help,how to set the timing common rail pressure pump
Hope you have been to the corner shop to buy some humble pie to give to the driver as an apology ref. last comment on video
Interesting my pump is 180 degrees out and runs but not very well at high revs hence why last owner sold it after repair service cam belt change
I was told HP pump. its okay ... I always asked why have a timing mark on then ?
So five years later I am spurred on to change it now and compare results as my diagnostic software doesn't make sense
The real reason is to get the severe pulses from the single element pump happening in-between the pulses of the valve opening forces, it would have been sensible to read the ford manual before carrying out the job. If you get a pump pulse coinciding with a valve opening pulse it will overload the belt. Volvo use a 2 piston pump like a little V twin engine which gives two small pulses instead of one big one . so the don't need the pump timed. Timing the pump is nothing to do with injection timing by the way.. the ford 1.6 D PSA engine also needs the pump being timed to the correct position..
good video
Alan,is the 2.0 litre engine in the MK5 the same as the MK4?! Meanning the Peugeot 2.0 HDI engine?! If yes that means that problem can happen the 2 litre MK4?! Cheers from Southampton
Following
Following...
My mrs just had her cambelt strip teath on a 2008 2.0 tdci focus...again all 16 rockers smashed....
its a totally different pump on the mk4 with only two ways the dog drive can fit so i don't think it is timed but i will be looking into it
Monica alert. Status: Hot! That was a good one! :) The GULAG scene is great, too. Btw, do you happen to know whether 1.8 TDCI high pressure pump also needs to be timed?
i am going to look into that one but i don't think they are
Probably not. That 1.8 is a fairly primitive engine with newer bits added on at this point.
Do you need to time pump in Mk4 ( 2012 2.0 )
Are these fuel pumps common to fail?
no those pumps are very reliable
is just locking cam pulley when changing belt ok or both pins in & pump off?
if your not removing the fuel pump then just set up cam and crank pins when changing belt
Thanks
Oh that delicious Vectra at 9:50!!! 😍
Just had same problem 17 Kuga cutting out under load changed pump all sorted
Oooo sh.... I have a problem... TY Alan!
Does this apply to the direct cam drive on the PSA 2.0 hdi ?
not as far as i know
@@alan4x cheers , got a massive piss stain oil leak from it , so going to take pump off and swear at it for a bit and try another gasket lol , love your channel :)
Nice
What can you say about 03l130755E from continental?
Can I buy a kit to restore it?
Thank you
Are the mk4 2.0 tdci 140 High pressure pump timed?
no its not
@@alan4x Thanks for your tutorial video.
Is 2012 2.0tdci 163 /120kw pump timed ?
And if so - did you figure out an answer on the 180°degree please ?
Like u said...american car with a french engine...it would've been easier to design the hpfp to be driven by the cambelt...so that u can see what u are doing...and therefore to set the correct timing pins to lock it when doing this replacement and knowing 100% that your hpfp position is accurate after the cambelt replacement is complete. But no...we like working twice dont we...💪🤘 french engineers that is..😤
Good to hear the driver is off the hook - this time ...
Drivers are always the first suspects
❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
And what is the price of new fuel pump? How many cases did you have with this problem and at what miles range? Thank you for all the great videos. Cheers.
Could you(theoretically) just replace the spring on the fuel pump if you would disassemble it from and replacement pump.
Igor Markic
Hi.. a new pump from ford will set you back around £700.
Aftermarket pumps around £550.
This is the first problem where I can relate a pump to cam belt damage
Igor Markic
The car had done just over 80k miles for the pump to possibly cause the cam belt teeth to shred.
Yes you can remove the spring from another pump and fit it straight onto the pump on your car
Hi there
There is a special tool for lining up a pump.
You didnt mention about timing the dog drive via the inspection window. When you take the square drive bolt out of the dog drive housing you can see a marked tooth. And as you said the dog can only go in 2 ways and one way will have the marked tooth in the window/ bolt hole the other wont.
Just pointing this out incase you didn't know.
DodgingSpice
Thanks for this I was unaware.
That information was not shown on the ford etis page I was looking at so must be on a different page but all this information is very useful, thanks
I hope you took the spring out first
watching this video was not a waste of time gor a change
🤣
thanks.. Just think, if you owned Toyotas instead of fords, you wouldn't be working as hard ;D
:)
Are you a video-gamer, Alan?
Haynes Manual's have now become toilet paper!
I bought this one (original Ford): www.factory-manuals.com/expand-ford-mondeo-2014-2015-2016-2017-2018-factory-repair-manual-392.html
Monica is a cutie 👌🏻
Morning Alan i have been running this through my head and i just don't see it just supplies pressure to the rail how could it cause that kind of damage, anyway if you say it did i will accept it 100%, and Monika is hot, does your wife not watch the videos lol.
That’s a babe Monica your are lovely 😊
Mate, Not many have the balls to admit they could be wrong. And even bigger balls to thoroughly correct it.(not that it was wrong ,just bad timing) I think the politicians could learn a bit from you.
hi thanks...
I don't think that Boris Johnson is going to learn that a no deal Brexit will be the wrong way :-(
well i know what i am doing for the next month ive removed 70ish of thease due to leaking. was hopeing it was the driver being a nob
holy shit..... i only change the gaskets when the oil leaks are quite bad
@@alan4x i do them when im doing the thermo or a fly wheel as you get loads of room becase you have moved the plastic boost pipe and battery tray
shouldn't it have gone in the scrap bin .
Hi Alan am a novice I have mk7 fiesta with broken pump V been told do you have any advice for me