I bought a Lee mold and a Carlson rifled choke! I had pretty much everything else I needed. Absolutely get the choke if your barrel has removable/screw-in chokes… the choke increased the accuracy tremendously! Still get the occasional flyer, but I have a pretty consistent 3 inch 6 round group at 50 yard from a bench rest! - without the choke it’s 6 inches at best or bigger!
Open the shell pour out the shot into a tiny cast iron skillet ( decorative ). Melt that shot to liquid pour into a 16mm. 12 point socket. Cool and punch out. Install back into shell. Push down the crimp. fire. You dont need to do all that with all those tools. Only work with one shell at a time and the powder will always be right. Imlo.
A Coleman liquid-fuel gas camp stove is great for melting lead. Doesn’t matter if it a big or small version. Also got enough to melt tin-alloy lead, & other strong alloy lead metals.
You don't need to harden a slug, they do not deform, and if they do on impact, much better, pistol/rifle bullets, yes. I bought a Lee melting furnace 40 Yrs ago and also is great for sinkers. Skip the stove part. It works but. Even got a small bird shot electric melting device. There you need to make hard shot to keep paterns tight. Lead/tin/antimony. Slugs are useles fo hunting in a Smooth Bore. But they can be very accurate in rifled bores👍My fav is a Savage 220
I ordered a plastic 3D printed shell cutter for about $20.. The razor blade tip is aimed at the end of the shotgun shell when you insert it. It cuts just inside the hull, cutting out the star crimp, but leaving a little rim on the hill.
I use a knife tip to perforate around the wad. The whole front end of the shell is shot as one peice. Poor man's breacher. Also good for short indoor defense, will break up if you miss (in theory. Don't miss.)
Boss man I bought the Lee load all 2. it works pretty good for me. I also bought a lead slug kit. Similar to what you have. I like making my one oz slugs But I back fill them with copper BB's and glue a on shot card. These things work amazing
Alright so I hope you see my reply cause I always thought a wax slug was just as good. I tested it out, it's really not. It's kinda like a very, very weak frangible round that falls apart even if you look at it the wrong way. In my testing, a real slug will go clean through both sides of a 55gal drum. A wax slug only goes through one side at close range some of the time if it holds together. This guy's method is way, way better than wax slugs and it's actually kind of fun to do.
I myself had. Have had nothing but problems with tapered hulls. I don't mess with them anymore. I just throw them away. I like the federal standard hulls with the white plastic basewad in them I have no trouble With them
Try a ringed load. Saw this in a Poor Man's James Bond years ago. Just score the shell around the wad to weaken the plastic. The shell will still cycle in a pump shotgun. When fired, the shell exits in one piece. In effect you've created a giant Glasser slug. When the slug enters the intended target (in my case it was an old jerry can filled with water.), a piece of metal was cut from the can the diameter of the slug, the bird shot scattered though out the jerry can. The author of the article claims he hunted bear in the Appalachians with these ringed loads. Very deadly.
@@xMrBlack Cut shells are cut all the way through the shell whereas a ringed load only scores the shell so it can still cycle in a pump shotgun. You are right in that the shell cannot be reused.
It would be a good idea to check penetration on a cut shell or ringed shell. I don't think it will compare favorably with a slug. It may just piss off the bear.
Open top petals pass open birdshot round to friend with with commercial glue glue. Carefull not to get glue outside of wad. Takes about 2 minutes or less . Recluse hull petals. Don. Another deadly round is same. But pour shot out into small shot glass or similar. Add 00 Buck Ball's, or larger lead Ball's. Take up space with the 7,8 shot till full. Then fill with hot glue stick as before careful to not overfill. Close hull petals and u have devastating rounds. 62 years reload.
Why would you cut the crimp end of a shell to load a Slug. Use once fired or new cases, buy some 12 Ga 7/8 ounce Target Wads, and just starr crimp like other reloads. Keep it simple. Casting slugs is an extra step and using Bird Shot expensive. Scrap lead available. Did you mention what type of barrel you used? Nice Pattern. Not likely a smooth bore. Have tried it, but not with a 20 Ga Slug.
Thanks for sharing your information. Only a small handful of people sharing their birdshot to slug conversion data. Two questions, 1) after roll crimping, how recessed is the slug compared to the top edge of the roll crimp? 2) how far out are your slugs releasing from the wad?
Why cut the end of the shotshell? 2 3/4" shell(fired or new), Wheight the slug and choose a stiff powder charge. 7/8 Oz target Wad, cardboard spacer if needed, Star crimp or roll crimp. Bird shot way to usefull to melt, scrap lead available. I still have Felt Wads, Carboard spacers.Over shot plastic cards for roll crimping, But it's been a very long time since I fooled with those for 12-20 Ga. You need a rifled barrel or choke for slugs to be accurate. 50 to 100 Yds Accurate for game . Wads for 7/8 Oz to 1 1/2 Oz Bird/Buckshot. Keep it simple.😂
Hey boss man I like your idea about the whole punch or tool for the shot card. I also make Mini Shotgun shells I put them in my pump pump in my over under. Great for target shooting
you can also just make them into cut shells by cutting behind the shot in the shell about 40% on one side and 40% on the other so when fired they will break away and the hull shot cup and shot are one package that will really come apart on impact. do at your own discretion and care it is dangerus. low brass only
Yes im aware of cut shell but they can only be single loaded. So as long as you only need one shot there great,, easy to use but if you want a tube full of them they won't work.
I have to say, I have a one oz Lee drive key mold and I am not impressed with the accuracy. I have tried numerous hull, powder, wad and filler wad combos and only achieved mediocre accuracy. (smooth bore, rifled bore, rifled choke and different choke restrictions). The wad/filler wad definitely affects accuracy! Even the filler wads get stuck in the slug, I have contemplated filling the base of the slugs with a hard light weight substance, maybe a foam filler with an epoxy binder. This "plug" stays in the slug and would stop the wad from getting forced into the hollow base. I have also contemplated filling and gluing the filler wad to the slug, , similar to other manufactures, I think Breneke does that. The filler wad would need to be non-compressible so it didn't end up tweaked and cause accuracy issues. Another note, I followed the Lee process of using the star crimp vs roll crimp, I do want to get a roll crimp tool and try that. As far as smoking the mold, Lee recommends using a butane lighter, I prefer the long BBQ lighters, better reach and less burnt fingers. So many experiments, so little time. LOL
Whiteoakforge is right. It seems the vast majority of folks report poor results with the 1 oz.slug, so much so I'm surprised they still offer it, but just as many or more report good to excellent results with the 7/8 oz. version. Swap your 1 oz. mold off for the lighter version, & you may have much better results. Also, the Lyman "Diabolo" 525 grn. sabot slug design has a rep for very good results, even from smoothbore guns.
@@grantgarrod2232 Yeah, I plan to pick up a 7/8 oz mold (they were out of stock when I last was wanting to order one) but have a problem with throwing in the towel when trying to figure out a solution LOL I will still try to figure out something with the 1oz and also get the 7/8 oz. Suborn I guess.
Need to be carfull using wheel weights in shotgun slugs. They don't stage through the choke like pure lead that the mold desighners engineered it be used
Anyone tried this with 410? I was toying with the idea of just pouring hot wax in the birdshot.. just as a back up for if I came across a pig or deer up close
Should never smack the mold on the screw where you hit it holding the slug, you want to smack towards where the handle pieces come together that spot with wood only because you can bend your mold I did. A old timer told me this and I didn't listen, I actually bent my first mold like yours after making about 200 of those things because mine's stuck more than most I guess? it still works but it's harder to get together. I had to get another one for faster slug making.
I've been thinking about doing what you're doing but with .410 and the actual slug I believe is premaid for 15 cents a slug that I've found on Midway USA , if that's the correct bullet . Do you think cotton balls would suffice inplace of the cardboard ? I do wish they made 410 slugs FMJ'D and bonded or if they made a bullet mold that I could use steel inplace of lead for health and environmental reasons but if all there is is lead bullets then I'll use those . I do like the shell cutting tool you made but is there an way to unfold a shell ? I would like to get bullet as close to forcing cone as possible to maybe prevent gas blowby for maximum power , if that is even a problem .
Actually now I'm thinking in place of the cotton/cardboard to use wax or epoxy which would function as a riser/spacer or shuttlecock of sorts . Not attached to bullet . The bullet just sits on top of it . Whereas the wad wraps around the bullet thus sometimes sticking to bullet and maybe effecting bullet in a negative way .
Now I'm thinking if I drill a hole in the top of the bullet that I'll be making my slugged bullet with if it'll unravel better . Then when I go to fold it back together placing an inflatable sports ball valve in that hole and hopefully inflating the bullet a little bit in hopes that giving more air will give a cleaner burn . Or hollow out my bullet riser thus allowing more air to fill inside shell . I'm thinking if I do all this in a cold environment it would condense the air anyways therfore when I take it outside into a warmer environment it naturally would be a little pressurized ; that is if it's hermetically sealed . I don't know how air tight bullets are anyways . Sorry to overwhelm you with these ideas .
I have thought about doing something similar. Trade out the birdshot for .36 caliber lead balls. I have a mold to make those. I wonder how many would fit? 00 buck is .33 caliber. I should be able to make it work. Any feedback would be appreciated
All u gotta do is buy a small scale. When u dump out the birdshot, weigh how much comes out. When u go to refill with the .36 cal lead balls, try to get as close to the weight of the birdshot without goin over. It's ok if your a bit lighter. That's shell is made for a specific weight. So long as u get close to that weight, u can shoot anything. Screws, needles, dimes, if u experience any looseness, u can always stuff a cotton ball in there to make them lead balls sit tight. Glad I could help.
Rather random question, couldnt someone hypothetically just use lets say bearings? Or what is sometimes referred to as “slingshot” ammo? Then you would just cut, empty, put a bearing in and finally find a way for it to hold in place to shoot 🧐
You hypothetically could and recrimp it. I would probably fill the voids of slingshot ammo with peices of the removed birdshot to add more weight so all the powder will burn. Because if it's to light you may not get enough back pressure to ignite your shell fully
Question .690 round ball weighs 495 grains, I would like to cut the nose to a flat tip reducing weight to 485 grains. Is it possible to reload a 1 1/8 ounce birdshot shell with a 690 round ball?
It's possible but depending on your original shells being used you using more than the original weight of the lead could result in increased pressure which could result in the shell or gun to explode but 1/8 of a ounce is probably not enough of difference to do this but it's still a risk
Brother I need your help. I'm trying to do this with my bird shot but my slugs won't let go of the Lee core pin. Is it because the antimony is too high in the lead? I sanded the core with 800 grit sand paper but it didn't help. Maybe I need to use a slightly rougher grit? Tried smoking it too but no luck.
Ok when you pour the lead in the mold cut the top part off the excess lead then you open up it to remove the slug from the mold the slug is stuck in the center of the mold ?
The mold needs to be really hot the hotter it is the easier it is to real youll also need like 2x2 or 2x4 piece of wood to tap the back of it that also helps to release it
@@whiteoakforge- I let it get to temperature, couple times too hot the lead didn't set XD, sadly I got a little heavy handed and already started dinging the mould from trying to bang the lead out.
Just drill an 1/8" hole center of bird shot and inject an epoxy to glue the shot together. Now you have a round that will stay intact till impact. I have never done it but was thinking it would be fun to try.
Why not just buy a sack of bird shot or a bunch of fishing weights? Bench audio was low, at full volume. I use a self powered speaker, not laptop speakers. Good idea, make shells with simple tools.
He mentioned wheel weights and the birdshot he's dumping out of the shells, and he implied any source of good lead you can get your hands on. He's re-purposing the birdshot he doesn't want and using it to make slugs. Birdshot loads are by far the cheapest of shot shells so this is a super way to make a "poor man's slug".
Was there an edit after your last shot to cut out your walk to the camera? Because it seemed like you were standing just off camera and not at 30 yards. Not saying that's what it was. Just it felt that way.
No, don't do this. Slugs can be easily made from fishing stinkers or old wheel weights. Bird shot is hard to make and expensive to buy. Save that bird shot for small game.
You cant shoot slugs out of a shotgun that isnt rifled it wont work properly. And never use bird or buck shot in a rifled shotgun. You will destroy your gun and over time blow up the barrel.
I Never suggested shooting buck or bird out a rifled it would spread to much unless your with in 5 yards it's pointless ,and say you can't shoot a slug out of a smoth bore because it won't work properly is depending how accurate you really need it to be most people don't need rifled slug barrel to hit a 12 inch plate at 50 yards
The use of much cheaper birdshot shells is the real cost saver here, but you could do it with any shot shells you have on hand but the next time just buy like #8 birdshot as cheap as you can find it
@@whiteoakforge- true. Apocalyptic senario your scavenging ammo probably not bad to have a single shot 12 guage They make multiple caliber adapters for survival and the are all rifled
3 minutes is 20 per hour. If your time is worth 20 bucks an hour, this makes no sense. .25 material costs, 1 buck worth of labor, total investment per load is a buck and a quarter, not counting amortizing your mold cost, energy cost to melt your lead, or your labor making your card cutter and hull cutter. If a store bought slug load is a buck even, you lose every time you pull the trigger. "Cost per unit economics" is your friend.
Yes when you factory in time and energy your right yes .But I think your missing the point of the video .Its more of when you can't find slugs or buckshot making your own cause birdshot can almost always be found. It's SHTF prep
It's something to do , good to learn new skills and test yourself . I don't feel these guys are wasting their time ( not more than me for commenting ).
I bought a Lee mold and a Carlson rifled choke! I had pretty much everything else I needed. Absolutely get the choke if your barrel has removable/screw-in chokes… the choke increased the accuracy tremendously! Still get the occasional flyer, but I have a pretty consistent 3 inch 6 round group at 50 yard from a bench rest! - without the choke it’s 6 inches at best or bigger!
Open the shell pour out the shot into a tiny cast iron skillet ( decorative ).
Melt that shot to liquid pour into a 16mm. 12 point socket.
Cool and punch out. Install back into shell. Push down the crimp. fire.
You dont need to do all that with all those tools.
Only work with one shell at a time and the powder will always be right.
Imlo.
Interesting! Did you do this and did you notice any change in accuracy?
A Coleman liquid-fuel gas camp stove is great for melting lead. Doesn’t matter if it a big or small version. Also got enough to melt tin-alloy lead, & other strong alloy lead metals.
Also, a used Bunson burner set could be too.
You don't need to harden a slug, they do not deform, and if they do on impact, much better, pistol/rifle bullets, yes. I bought a Lee melting furnace 40 Yrs ago and also is great for sinkers. Skip the stove part. It works but. Even got a small bird shot electric melting device. There you need to make hard shot to keep paterns tight. Lead/tin/antimony. Slugs are useles fo hunting in a Smooth Bore. But they can be very accurate in rifled bores👍My fav is a Savage 220
THAT is a well designed shell cutter. You made it modular with an easy to replace blade vise....genius!
You can use 20 gauge shot cards under the slugs . They fit a bit better in the wad. I use a clear over shot card then roll crimp with my drill
Don't baton the mold, hit the mold handles. Otherwise, you can damage the molds.
I ordered a plastic 3D printed shell cutter for about $20.. The razor blade tip is aimed at the end of the shotgun shell when you insert it. It cuts just inside the hull, cutting out the star crimp, but leaving a little rim on the hill.
Where can I order this
@@jimmysapien9961 ebay for sure
I use a knife tip to perforate around the wad. The whole front end of the shell is shot as one peice. Poor man's breacher. Also good for short indoor defense, will break up if you miss (in theory. Don't miss.)
Cut shells are easy but require single loading into breech and none in magazine. A good skill to know in a pinch
Boss man I bought the Lee load all 2.
it works pretty good for me.
I also bought a lead slug kit.
Similar to what you have.
I like making my one oz slugs But I back fill them with copper BB's and glue a on shot card.
These things work amazing
WOW! Thats great accuracy! Your method paid off well
Glad to help
A simpler option would be to make the existing shot into a wax slug
That’s what I thought he was going to demonstrate 😜This is too much work!
Alright so I hope you see my reply cause I always thought a wax slug was just as good. I tested it out, it's really not. It's kinda like a very, very weak frangible round that falls apart even if you look at it the wrong way. In my testing, a real slug will go clean through both sides of a 55gal drum. A wax slug only goes through one side at close range some of the time if it holds together. This guy's method is way, way better than wax slugs and it's actually kind of fun to do.
Wax slugs melt if you live in a hot climate
Adding the weight of wax to the weight of an existing shell is dangerous and could make the pressures spike. Good way to blow up your gun and hands.
Wax slug? You mean a door breaching round.
That was some good stuff you mentioned . But don't hit the mold there . Hit the large nut on the handles and the mold will last you for a long time .
I found this out the hard way.
The first few are very difficult to get out but eventually I barely have to "tap" and they pop right out
I myself had. Have had nothing but problems with tapered hulls. I don't mess with them anymore. I just throw them away. I like the federal standard hulls with the white plastic basewad in them I have no trouble With them
Nice setup brother appreciate ya showing us that
Try a ringed load. Saw this in a Poor Man's James Bond years ago. Just score the shell around the wad to weaken the plastic. The shell will still cycle in a pump shotgun. When fired, the shell exits in one piece. In effect you've created a giant Glasser slug. When the slug enters the intended target (in my case it was an old jerry can filled with water.), a piece of metal was cut from the can the diameter of the slug, the bird shot scattered though out the jerry can. The author of the article claims he hunted bear in the Appalachians with these ringed loads. Very deadly.
Wow. Thank you
There's a whole bunch of videos out there on cut shells. Fine for an emergency but if you like to re use your shells you're kinda SOL with cut shells.
@@xMrBlack Cut shells are cut all the way through the shell whereas a ringed load only scores the shell so it can still cycle in a pump shotgun. You are right in that the shell cannot be reused.
@@georgestreicher252 frankly I'd split the difference and do wax or glue slugs.
It would be a good idea to check penetration on a cut shell or ringed shell. I don't think it will compare favorably with a slug. It may just piss off the bear.
Open top petals pass open birdshot round to friend with with commercial glue glue. Carefull not to get glue outside of wad. Takes about 2 minutes or less . Recluse hull petals. Don. Another deadly round is same. But pour shot out into small shot glass or similar. Add 00 Buck Ball's, or larger lead Ball's. Take up space with the 7,8 shot till full. Then fill with hot glue stick as before careful to not overfill. Close hull petals and u have devastating rounds. 62 years reload.
Why would you cut the crimp end of a shell to load a Slug. Use once fired or new cases, buy some 12 Ga 7/8 ounce Target Wads, and just starr crimp like other reloads. Keep it simple. Casting slugs is an extra step and using Bird Shot expensive. Scrap lead available. Did you mention what type of barrel you used? Nice Pattern. Not likely a smooth bore. Have tried it, but not with a 20 Ga Slug.
Thanks for sharing your information. Only a small handful of people sharing their birdshot to slug conversion data. Two questions, 1) after roll crimping, how recessed is the slug compared to the top edge of the roll crimp? 2) how far out are your slugs releasing from the wad?
Glad to help
Why cut the end of the shotshell? 2 3/4" shell(fired or new), Wheight the slug and choose a stiff powder charge. 7/8 Oz target Wad, cardboard spacer if needed, Star crimp or roll crimp. Bird shot way to usefull to melt, scrap lead available. I still have Felt Wads, Carboard spacers.Over shot plastic cards for roll crimping, But it's been a very long time since I fooled with those for 12-20 Ga. You need a rifled barrel or choke for slugs to be accurate. 50 to 100 Yds Accurate for game . Wads for 7/8 Oz to 1 1/2 Oz Bird/Buckshot. Keep it simple.😂
Hey boss man I like your idea about the whole punch or tool for the shot card.
I also make Mini Shotgun shells I put them in my pump pump in my over under.
Great for target shooting
Take melted wax pour it on the shot close shell backup makes pretty effective slug
Audio was really low - I had to turn my system up to almost max... Just a heads up to check that before hand, bro... Great vid!
Sorry This was back before I had video editing software
you can also just make them into cut shells by cutting behind the shot in the shell about 40% on one side and 40% on the other so when fired they will break away and the hull shot cup and shot are one package that will really come apart on impact. do at your own discretion and care it is dangerus. low brass only
Yes im aware of cut shell but they can only be single loaded. So as long as you only need one shot there great,, easy to use but if you want a tube full of them they won't work.
thanks for explaining the reason for the shot card
Time is money! Thx for sharing.
Good info I wish you would of showed the crimping. I very never seen it done before but think I could duplicate your process
Thank you for sharing this information. It's a good thing to know.
Glad it was helpful tim
I miss tool time Tim , aroo , aroo .
It's a lot easier to cut the top off and fill it with hot wax or Elmer's glue.
You could probably weigh the slugs and recast any light ones. Any voids would make them light.
Do you have a video of making the cutting jig?
I have to say, I have a one oz Lee drive key mold and I am not impressed with the accuracy. I have tried numerous hull, powder, wad and filler wad combos and only achieved mediocre accuracy. (smooth bore, rifled bore, rifled choke and different choke restrictions). The wad/filler wad definitely affects accuracy! Even the filler wads get stuck in the slug, I have contemplated filling the base of the slugs with a hard light weight substance, maybe a foam filler with an epoxy binder. This "plug" stays in the slug and would stop the wad from getting forced into the hollow base. I have also contemplated filling and gluing the filler wad to the slug, , similar to other manufactures, I think Breneke does that. The filler wad would need to be non-compressible so it didn't end up tweaked and cause accuracy issues. Another note, I followed the Lee process of using the star crimp vs roll crimp, I do want to get a roll crimp tool and try that. As far as smoking the mold, Lee recommends using a butane lighter, I prefer the long BBQ lighters, better reach and less burnt fingers. So many experiments, so little time. LOL
Alot of people have problem with accuracy out of the 1 ounce mold 7/8 ounce has been the most accurate for me
Whiteoakforge is right. It seems the vast majority of folks report poor results with the 1 oz.slug, so much so I'm surprised they still offer it, but just as many or more report good to excellent results with the 7/8 oz. version. Swap your 1 oz. mold off for the lighter version, & you may have much better results. Also, the Lyman "Diabolo" 525 grn. sabot slug design has a rep for very good results, even from smoothbore guns.
@@grantgarrod2232 Yeah, I plan to pick up a 7/8 oz mold (they were out of stock when I last was wanting to order one) but have a problem with throwing in the towel when trying to figure out a solution LOL I will still try to figure out something with the 1oz and also get the 7/8 oz. Suborn I guess.
Need to be carfull using wheel weights in shotgun slugs. They don't stage through the choke like pure lead that the mold desighners engineered it be used
Ive seen some just cut the sides of thebird shot shell and when fired it breaks off and holds all the bbs and acts as a slug, def less work
Dem dehr country boys may talk slow,but they fo sho ain’t stupid! Nice work brother
Anyone tried this with 410? I was toying with the idea of just pouring hot wax in the birdshot.. just as a back up for if I came across a pig or deer up close
Should never smack the mold on the screw where you hit it holding the slug, you want to smack towards where the handle pieces come together that spot with wood only because you can bend your mold I did. A old timer told me this and I didn't listen, I actually bent my first mold like yours after making about 200 of those things because mine's stuck more than most I guess? it still works but it's harder to get together. I had to get another one for faster slug making.
I've been thinking about doing what you're doing but with .410 and the actual slug I believe is premaid for 15 cents a slug that I've found on Midway USA , if that's the correct bullet . Do you think cotton balls would suffice inplace of the cardboard ? I do wish they made 410 slugs FMJ'D and bonded or if they made a bullet mold that I could use steel inplace of lead for health and environmental reasons but if all there is is lead bullets then I'll use those . I do like the shell cutting tool you made but is there an way to unfold a shell ? I would like to get bullet as close to forcing cone as possible to maybe prevent gas blowby for maximum power , if that is even a problem .
Actually now I'm thinking in place of the cotton/cardboard to use wax or epoxy which would function as a riser/spacer or shuttlecock of sorts . Not attached to bullet . The bullet just sits on top of it . Whereas the wad wraps around the bullet thus sometimes sticking to bullet and maybe effecting bullet in a negative way .
Now I'm thinking if I drill a hole in the top of the bullet that I'll be making my slugged bullet with if it'll unravel better . Then when I go to fold it back together placing an inflatable sports ball valve in that hole and hopefully inflating the bullet a little bit in hopes that giving more air will give a cleaner burn . Or hollow out my bullet riser thus allowing more air to fill inside shell . I'm thinking if I do all this in a cold environment it would condense the air anyways therfore when I take it outside into a warmer environment it naturally would be a little pressurized ; that is if it's hermetically sealed . I don't know how air tight bullets are anyways . Sorry to overwhelm you with these ideas .
Buy a couple of cheap second hand books about reloading, you will save yourself a lot of time ☺
Very cool video !!
Are you starting with 3 inch shells to get 2 3/4 inch slug rounds?
Cut shell. It's free minus the ammunition and a knife.
Do you need a rifled barrel for these?
No you don't
I was thinking of a cut-shell.
I saw you used 1200fps , can you use 1350fps target loads ? Or is there to much power for the lee slug . G'day from Australia btw
As long as you match the original projectile weight you can
I have thought about doing something similar. Trade out the birdshot for .36 caliber lead balls. I have a mold to make those. I wonder how many would fit? 00 buck is .33 caliber. I should be able to make it work. Any feedback would be appreciated
All u gotta do is buy a small scale. When u dump out the birdshot, weigh how much comes out. When u go to refill with the .36 cal lead balls, try to get as close to the weight of the birdshot without goin over. It's ok if your a bit lighter. That's shell is made for a specific weight. So long as u get close to that weight, u can shoot anything. Screws, needles, dimes, if u experience any looseness, u can always stuff a cotton ball in there to make them lead balls sit tight. Glad I could help.
@@chrisharmon5309 thank you!
@@chrisharmon5309tru
Will they cycle through a semi-auto shotgun? Appreciate your help.
Prob not unless the birdshot you use high brass or powerful bird shot shells
Great video. Could you use the cardboard from the shotshell box?
You could but you'd need to use more of them prob 3-4
@@whiteoakforge- true I was just thinking got the box already on hand and if ya got the bulk shotshell thats more box
@@rgk7628 yeah if thats what you want to use you cant cardboard in all thickness
So the powder charge for birdshot is the same as a slug?
Your not changing the powder load at all your just changing the projectile
@@whiteoakforge-tru
Thanks for the video
Rather random question, couldnt someone hypothetically just use lets say bearings? Or what is sometimes referred to as “slingshot” ammo? Then you would just cut, empty, put a bearing in and finally find a way for it to hold in place to shoot 🧐
You hypothetically could and recrimp it. I would probably fill the voids of slingshot ammo with peices of the removed birdshot to add more weight so all the powder will burn. Because if it's to light you may not get enough back pressure to ignite your shell fully
Bearings are very hard steel , harder than the gun Barrel , not Safe !
It’s called a cut shell, way more easily done
Any squib loads due to the heavier slug and low brass instead of high brass? Seems like a good zombie apocalypse thing to do.
I haven't had a problem yet
The brass height doesn't matter. Low and high brass will handle the same pressure. It is just marketing.
Did you get the idea for making the too to cut the crimp off by attending a bris?
Question .690 round ball weighs 495 grains, I would like to cut the nose to a flat tip reducing weight to 485 grains. Is it possible to reload a 1 1/8 ounce birdshot shell with a 690 round ball?
It's possible but depending on your original shells being used you using more than the original weight of the lead could result in increased pressure which could result in the shell or gun to explode but 1/8 of a ounce is probably not enough of difference to do this but it's still a risk
Great video 😊👌
Brother I need your help. I'm trying to do this with my bird shot but
my slugs won't let go of the Lee core pin. Is it because the antimony
is too high in the lead? I sanded the core with 800 grit sand paper but
it didn't help. Maybe I need to use a slightly rougher grit? Tried
smoking it too but no luck.
The wad wont separate from slug ?
@@whiteoakforge- The slug won't let go of the core pin when I'm casting.
Ok when you pour the lead in the mold cut the top part off the excess lead then you open up it to remove the slug from the mold the slug is stuck in the center of the mold ?
The mold needs to be really hot the hotter it is the easier it is to real youll also need like 2x2 or 2x4 piece of wood to tap the back of it that also helps to release it
@@whiteoakforge- I let it get to temperature, couple times too hot the lead didn't set XD, sadly I got a little heavy handed and already started dinging the mould from trying to bang the lead out.
Any idea what kind of fps you are getting with those?
Probably 100fps less than the birdshot of equal weight. Less pressure shooting a slug compared to birds hot of the same weight.
Just drill an 1/8" hole center of bird shot and inject an epoxy to glue the shot together. Now you have a round that will stay intact till impact. I have never done it but was thinking it would be fun to try.
well done
Thank you
Why not just buy a sack of bird shot or a bunch of fishing weights?
Bench audio was low, at full volume. I use a self powered speaker, not laptop speakers. Good idea, make shells with simple tools.
He mentioned wheel weights and the birdshot he's dumping out of the shells, and he implied any source of good lead you can get your hands on. He's re-purposing the birdshot he doesn't want and using it to make slugs. Birdshot loads are by far the cheapest of shot shells so this is a super way to make a "poor man's slug".
Was there an edit after your last shot to cut out your walk to the camera? Because it seemed like you were standing just off camera and not at 30 yards. Not saying that's what it was. Just it felt that way.
I saw that too. I assumed it was an edit to save time
Wher availably
Nice
Thanks man
Yeeyeee
No, don't do this. Slugs can be easily made from fishing stinkers or old wheel weights.
Bird shot is hard to make and expensive to buy.
Save that bird shot for small game.
If they will wait says FE it’s made of iron😂
You cant shoot slugs out of a shotgun that isnt rifled it wont work properly. And never use bird or buck shot in a rifled shotgun. You will destroy your gun and over time blow up the barrel.
I Never suggested shooting buck or bird out a rifled it would spread to much unless your with in 5 yards it's pointless ,and say you can't shoot a slug out of a smoth bore because it won't work properly is depending how accurate you really need it to be most people don't need rifled slug barrel to hit a 12 inch plate at 50 yards
I'll never understand why people record at such low audio levels that you can't hear the audio without an external amplifier.
You may want to get a hearing test done.
Home Growns All Right With Me,
Home Growns the Way To Be???
Solid !!!!
Deus Vult
Damn… less talking more doing…. I was waiting on him to tell his own origin story…..
Wheel weight*
I do this and I also do this for 00 and #4 buck
The use of much cheaper birdshot shells is the real cost saver here, but you could do it with any shot shells you have on hand but the next time just buy like #8 birdshot as cheap as you can find it
Just use Hill Billy slugs cut shells.
If your only using them one at a time yes. but it you if want a tube loaded up they won't work
why not just do cut shells ?
Because cut shells can only be loaded one at a time these can load in the whole tube
Simpler simpler solution cut shells
Can't load cut shells into tube of shotgun there only good for single shot use
@@whiteoakforge- true. Apocalyptic senario your scavenging ammo probably not bad to have a single shot 12 guage
They make multiple caliber adapters for survival and the are all rifled
Even simpler just buy slugs it’s not like you going to shoot a hundred slugs a day Lolo
3 minutes is 20 per hour. If your time is worth 20 bucks an hour, this makes no sense. .25 material costs, 1 buck worth of labor, total investment per load is a buck and a quarter, not counting amortizing your mold cost, energy cost to melt your lead, or your labor making your card cutter and hull cutter. If a store bought slug load is a buck even, you lose every time you pull the trigger. "Cost per unit economics" is your friend.
Yes when you factory in time and energy your right yes .But I think your missing the point of the video .Its more of when you can't find slugs or buckshot making your own cause birdshot can almost always be found. It's SHTF prep
It's something to do , good to learn new skills and test yourself . I don't feel these guys are wasting their time ( not more than me for commenting ).
Some people do it as a hobby. Hobby's cost money. It can also be relaxing.
You obviously missed the last couple years of ammo sales.
In this case,we should do it in our spare time,after good paying work :). Still worth the money...
you don't have enough volume in your voice
Cut shot shells exist this guy “NO”
If you read a few of the exact same comments, you'll know why he did it this way.
Speak up Son! Caint hardly hear ye...
Speak louder please. Couldn't hear half of what you were saying.
Shouldn't use short brass for heavy loads, not good for the gun and not good for the shooter.
The it's not a heavy load, it's the same weight as the bird shot its just one solid round vs several hundred rounds
Reshaping a pound of clay from a square to a ball doesn't make it weigh more.
Beware the arsenic
No fun, no skill, buy slugs and buckshot.
Factory slugs for legal self-defense if you use SG for self-defense, and go to trial.
It's more of prep/shtf thing than your everyday self defense situation load
It's all skill and FUN to experiment with homemade slug loads and all.
Sounded soft