Excellent work, very professional. You said you 3d printed the shot shell cutters?. Now all you need is a few Coates of boiled linseed oil on that Birch wood bench top, a little buffing with some "0000" steel wool, and you'll have a bullet proof, liquid resistant bench top!. 👍
I too was concerned about shoot wax slugs with no crimp. The roll crimp keeps the wad under compression. Being lazy, I went about it in a different way. Rather than cutting off the existing roll crimp, I use a tile cutter bit in my electric drill to cut a hole just inside the crimp. This leaves a roll crimp case with a big hole on top. The shot is then dumped out and the wax-lead aggregate is poured back in. The hole cutter is called a diamond bit cutter. It looks like a socket with a rough lip. the 16mm size is perfect for 12 ga. They cost about $2.00 in ebay, mailed from China.
DKH... Nicely done! I love how organized your process is. I agree on the roll crimping being safer. I know of 2 cases where the slug came loose and slid into the barrel before firing (both in a pump). The results were not good, and luckily no one was hurt. Thanks for the video.. Shad
Just by way of an FYI, the concern about the wax softening and potentially creating an obstruction is a real and valid concern. There is an older video on TH-cam where a young man shows what happened to him during a shooting session. In his personal debriefing of the incident, he wasn't sure what happened, but his description of everything makes me believe that the wax softened and the weight of the lead moved everything well into the bore. When fired, the barrel burst. His techniques weren't very good, and I think this contributed to the problems, but a roll crimp with overshot card would have prevented any issues. Good video.
Used to do something similar to this in the New Zealand Forest Service back in the early 60's when we didn't have the money to buy SG's. Convert duck shot into pig ammo. We prized open the cartridge top, left the shot in place and poured candle wax in. Not pretty but effective......
@@florabamabrian5359 they will be effective for sure it will just make it have a bigger fire ball come out the muzzle of the shot gun and lose a couple hundred fps but it still would be better then just normal bird shot
Couldn't you use a Dremel cut-off wheel to cut slots in a spoon (hot wax drainage) for shot refill, then top off with wax? Spoons could stay in wax pot between fillings (heat absorption) lessening wax accumulation.
Figure out a way to overlay grid plate on shell holder plate (with a boundary shim height at clearance needed for roll crimping and you could do entire plate at once w/o handling each shell.
This is an older topic. I've reloaded shotshells for quite some time. A few comments and concerns to address though... 1) Purchased shotshells have a particular charge of powder (either in grains or drams) to weight of shot/slug ratio. Decreasing the weight of the shot will increase the power of the shotshell which also increases the psi load tolerance on shotgun barrels. This may be acceptable for your shotguns, but for older or cheaper (poor quality) shotguns, it can cause the barrel to be damaged or explode. You didn't weigh any of your shells after they were created to see if the wax/shot mixture matched the weight of the original shell. This is a huge safety issue. For example, Federal Premium 12 Gauge Target Load uses 1 1/8 ounces of shot (about 504 grains) with 19.3 grains of smokeless powder (equivalent to 3 drams of black powder). If you remove 504 grains of shot, your wax/shot mixture going back in needs to be equivalent to 504 grains. Also, you removed the star crimping off the original shell. The weight of the plastic removed has to be added into your charge/weight ratio equation. 2) I used wax slugs for about two years until they melt on a hot summer day while hunting (on a private farm). Heat is not your friend when trying to rely on wax slugs. Hot Glue, on the other hand, is a much more reliable option. A hot day does not cause the hot glue to melt. I've been using hot glue slugs for about six years now and they work great. My 12 gauge backpacking rifle is threaded for Beretta Chokes and is sold with a factory "modified choke" tube. Hot glue slugs work great in barrels with modified chokes. Definitely is a better option than using wax slugs or cut shells. When I make my Hot Glue slugs, I use a cutdown shotshell hull that allows me to use it as a scoop that weighs 500 grains when full of shot and leveled off with a card. Charge to weight ratio is very important. 3) In Europe, shotgun shooting schools are always in demand and are very competitive. However, the amount of plastic power pistons that are found on the ground of public shooting and hunting areas became a huge problem. European shotshell manufacturers began releasing environment friendly shotshells that used a felt wad in place of the power piston. If you are not adding all the shot back to the shotshell because space is an issue, you may want to try removing the power piston all together. The power piston only accounts for around 8% to 10% recoil reduction. The power piston in a target shotshell was not designed for use with an improvised Wax (or Hot Glue) Slug. And, from how you are producing your wax slugs in your video, they appear to be overpowered after you finish roll crimping them. You wouldn't even notice the recoil reduction by removing the power piston. 4) Single Barrel and Double Barrel Shotguns don't require reloaded shotshells to have roll crimps. Only pump action or automatics require the shotshells to be crimped (it's due to the shotshells not being able to feed correctly when the hulls aren't crimped). My backpacking 12 gauge rifle is a single barrel and I've never roll crimped any wax or hot glue shotshell that I've shot from that rifle. The resin in the hot glue keeps my barrel clean after every shot. These are just a few thoughts and concerns. Also, a few drips of wax or hot glue which I've rarely ever had happen don't hurt the barrel and/or cause problems when shooting these improvised slugs. Sincerely, Jacob SurvivalGeek (TH-cam) th-cam.com/channels/fRsUPToBXp4ZIre__dJg4A.html
S Geek... You have some interesting thoughts on the subject. I will disagree on one statement though. Decreasing the weight of the shot/payload does Not increase pressure. In fact the opposite occurs.. the pressure decreases as the weight of the shot/payload goes down. This applies to all reloading. You only needs to decrease the powder charge if the projectile/payload goes up in weight.
S Geek -- Thanks for the reply... You might have noticed the "Safety Disclaimer" at the beginning of the video... This is how "I" have made Wax Slugs -- and not to be confused with an actual Instructional Video... I have never experienced any over-pressure on any of my slugs -- not to say it is above the realm of possibility... Nor have I ever been shooting where a hot day caused the wax to come out --- Hence why I use and overshot card and Roll Crimp. Hot glue would serve the same purpose -- so, "To each his own". Happy Reloading!! :)
SurvivalNerd is one of these know it all jamokes who thinks he's smarter than everyone else but if you actually read what he said he's probably the dumbest person to leave a comment on this video.
@@probegt75 the nerds in my school where clever , this one's called geek remember. Geeks are normally self taught , wax is pretty light substance depending on the sort , if your cutting the crimp off I'd say it's balancing fit for tat .. denser waxs will hold up to heat a bit better and will keep your slug more in its original form in my opinion (ヘ･_･)ヘ/┻━┻-- cheap candle wax will form a slug as such most lightly break up on firing , but a heavier wax will keep its form right throw the shot ,. Best approach is buy proper slugs for use. . My opinion.
You can definitely reload them with a slug... The "Wax Slug" method is just a cheap alternative to taking an existing "Field Load" Shotshell, and turning it into a Slug Load. If you are reclaiming your own lead, melting it down and casting your own slugs -- then by all means, create your own "actual" Slug Loads. I do that as well.
This has the advantage of spreading out when it hits the target. It can do significantly more damage than a slug which just drills a big hole. Well, it can at least increase the odds of hitting something vital.
@@johnterpack3940 But the slug, holding together, will achieve greater penetration than a bunch of light weight pellets spreading apart and loosing energy before penetrating deeply......
@@johnterpack3940 As you said "This has the advantage of spreading out when it hits the target" Exactly, a bunch of birdshot spreading when it hits the target! Small pellets with little mass have little penetrating power......
Flipping them over looks like a good way to lose powder. Sounds sketchy. I think I would fill the slugs with shot and then add the wax that way each shot charge weight is the same. Also why not just cast your own slugs?
@@privateassman8839 I don't know... getting smacked with 1 oz of #4 shot in a 3/4" area & then it breaking apart as it traveled through seems more brutal than a solid slug.
+DaveTex2375 You do not "have to" use Microcrystalline Wax -- and actually, I have moved away from it - and now just use Paraffin Wax (Gulf Wax). But if you really want to use the Microcrystalline Wax -- here is where you can find it... www.igiwax.com/igi-products/microcrystallinewax.html spwax.com/pages/products/Microcrystalline.html
15:40 When your putting the bb's people in you HAVE to wiggle the shells let the bbs grit together makes them bond together stronger.. if you put them into something Clear & just dump them in then add wax & let them harden, Or same thing but shake them a bit let them harden youll see what i mean on the sides if you can see it
I just skip the step of putting shot in wax. I load my shot as much as I want with measured dippers then pour the wax in. The liquid wax will fill all the voids.
Its inexpensive light and will not harm the barrel. This method is safe and better than cut shells where the hull is cut and travels out the barrel with the shot and wadding together.
I reload shotgun for hunting and shotgun sports. since ive been watching some you tube vids i see these kind of vids all the time now. - I dont doube its not illegal to load and shoot one of these for fun in the desert but, one has to wonder of the legality of using one for self defense.
Can't get a round in ky the hogs get em all before I can get to the store. I just want to squirrel hunt but they making money. I hope they have to eat all of em
Historically ( and/ or according to legend and folklore ) back in the day , usually the Great Depression , country people/ hillbillies/ po folks would only have a box / handful of small game type shells . They wanted/ needed the ability to shoot deer, etc to put food on the table , so created field expedient ways to modify shotshells to do so . Needless to say , if they were too broke to purchase a box of slugs or buckshot , they were too broke to buy reloading gear . In the modern times are there * better * ways to have deer hunting shotgun loads ? Well yeah ! Not least of which is just buy a 5 pack or two of slugs/ buckshot . But it's enjoyable to experement . And you could justify to yourself " But what if its the End of the World / massive Civil Unrest , and all you can obtain are Trap loads / Wal Mart promotional loads " . Of the two main Folklore Expedient methods of improvised slugs , Wax Shells are definitely more forgiving, and less dangerous to the user than " cut shells " .
![[79] Roll Crimping Old, Previously Star Crimped Shot Shell Hulls: Can It Work?](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/WqnETjvG3lg/mqdefault.jpg)
I found that leaving the shoulder on the shell works pretty good. The way I do it is to cut the center out with a diamond hole cutter.
Excellent work, very professional. You said you 3d printed the shot shell cutters?.
Now all you need is a few Coates of boiled linseed oil on that Birch wood bench top, a little buffing with some "0000" steel wool, and you'll have a bullet proof, liquid resistant bench top!. 👍
I too was concerned about shoot wax slugs with no crimp. The roll crimp keeps the wad under compression. Being lazy, I went about it in a different way. Rather than cutting off the existing roll crimp, I use a tile cutter bit in my electric drill to cut a hole just inside the crimp. This leaves a roll crimp case with a big hole on top. The shot is then dumped out and the wax-lead aggregate is poured back in. The hole cutter is called a diamond bit cutter. It looks like a socket with a rough lip. the 16mm size is perfect for 12 ga. They cost about $2.00 in ebay, mailed from China.
That's a great idea. I was hoping for some way other than just cutting the top off with a blade. I hope that still working out for you.
DKH... Nicely done! I love how organized your process is. I agree on the roll crimping being safer. I know of 2 cases where the slug came loose and slid into the barrel before firing (both in a pump). The results were not good, and luckily no one was hurt.
Thanks for the video..
Shad
Thanks Chief, and welcome to the watchlist.
watchlist?
Nothing either illegal or suspicious about reloading
Just by way of an FYI, the concern about the wax softening and potentially creating an obstruction is a real and valid concern. There is an older video on TH-cam where a young man shows what happened to him during a shooting session.
In his personal debriefing of the incident, he wasn't sure what happened, but his description of everything makes me believe that the wax softened and the weight of the lead moved everything well into the bore. When fired, the barrel burst.
His techniques weren't very good, and I think this contributed to the problems, but a roll crimp with overshot card would have prevented any issues.
Good video.
Do you sell the shell prepper?
"And when you pull out, the beauty of it is that it spills off nice n neat for ya" LOL.
That aside....
Great video. Love the cutters.
"I do take a little bit of petroleum jelly and put it on the rim" ..."you want to do this nice and slow until you get used to it"
It doesn't look like you are weighing the load (shot) before dropping them in the hull. Random weights
is not great for consistency.....
WHY ARE YOU NOT KEEPING THE #9 SHOT SEPARATE FROM THE #6 SHOT , THERE'S A WEIGHT DEFERENCE ????
The only way if your going to use a magazine fed... excellent video! Thank you!
Used to do something similar to this in the New Zealand Forest Service back in the early 60's when we didn't have the money to buy SG's. Convert duck shot into pig ammo. We prized open the cartridge top, left the shot in place and poured candle wax in. Not pretty but effective......
I used to do that when I was a kid
Problem is if the shot isn't up to temperature the wax solidifies upon contact. Much less cohesive mass.
I didn't see. Did you weight out your shot so it would be the same as the original shot weight ?
@John Beige my professional amateur thinking Leads me to believe if you dont maintain the same weight the shot shell will not be as effective.
@@florabamabrian5359 they will be effective for sure it will just make it have a bigger fire ball come out the muzzle of the shot gun and lose a couple hundred fps but it still would be better then just normal bird shot
I love the cutter. Patent that now. You could make some money on that. Love the video.
Are you still selling the cutters and grid boards etc?
Couldn't you use a Dremel cut-off wheel to cut slots in a spoon (hot wax drainage) for shot refill, then top off with wax? Spoons could stay in wax pot between fillings (heat absorption) lessening wax accumulation.
Figure out a way to overlay grid plate on shell holder plate (with a boundary shim height at clearance needed for roll crimping and you could do entire plate at once w/o handling each shell.
After fired, are the roll crimp shells reloadable? Are you selling any of these components?
Yes you can rool crimp it again
Can we just use the syringe to inject the melted wax into the shell from the top? If that is doable, just one step and no other equipment needed.
This is an older topic.
I've reloaded shotshells for quite some time. A few comments and concerns to address though...
1) Purchased shotshells have a particular charge of powder (either in grains or drams) to weight of shot/slug ratio. Decreasing the weight of the shot will increase the power of the shotshell which also increases the psi load tolerance on shotgun barrels. This may be acceptable for your shotguns, but for older or cheaper (poor quality) shotguns, it can cause the barrel to be damaged or explode.
You didn't weigh any of your shells after they were created to see if the wax/shot mixture matched the weight of the original shell. This is a huge safety issue. For example, Federal Premium 12 Gauge Target Load uses 1 1/8 ounces of shot (about 504 grains) with 19.3 grains of smokeless powder (equivalent to 3 drams of black powder). If you remove 504 grains of shot, your wax/shot mixture going back in needs to be equivalent to 504 grains.
Also, you removed the star crimping off the original shell. The weight of the plastic removed has to be added into your charge/weight ratio equation.
2) I used wax slugs for about two years until they melt on a hot summer day while hunting (on a private farm). Heat is not your friend when trying to rely on wax slugs. Hot Glue, on the other hand, is a much more reliable option. A hot day does not cause the hot glue to melt. I've been using hot glue slugs for about six years now and they work great.
My 12 gauge backpacking rifle is threaded for Beretta Chokes and is sold with a factory "modified choke" tube. Hot glue slugs work great in barrels with modified chokes. Definitely is a better option than using wax slugs or cut shells.
When I make my Hot Glue slugs, I use a cutdown shotshell hull that allows me to use it as a scoop that weighs 500 grains when full of shot and leveled off with a card. Charge to weight ratio is very important.
3) In Europe, shotgun shooting schools are always in demand and are very competitive. However, the amount of plastic power pistons that are found on the ground of public shooting and hunting areas became a huge problem. European shotshell manufacturers began releasing environment friendly shotshells that used a felt wad in place of the power piston.
If you are not adding all the shot back to the shotshell because space is an issue, you may want to try removing the power piston all together.
The power piston only accounts for around 8% to 10% recoil reduction. The power piston in a target shotshell was not designed for use with an improvised Wax (or Hot Glue) Slug. And, from how you are producing your wax slugs in your video, they appear to be overpowered after you finish roll crimping them. You wouldn't even notice the recoil reduction by removing the power piston.
4) Single Barrel and Double Barrel Shotguns don't require reloaded shotshells to have roll crimps. Only pump action or automatics require the shotshells to be crimped (it's due to the shotshells not being able to feed correctly when the hulls aren't crimped).
My backpacking 12 gauge rifle is a single barrel and I've never roll crimped any wax or hot glue shotshell that I've shot from that rifle. The resin in the hot glue keeps my barrel clean after every shot.
These are just a few thoughts and concerns.
Also, a few drips of wax or hot glue which I've rarely ever had happen don't hurt the barrel and/or cause problems when shooting these improvised slugs.
Sincerely,
Jacob
SurvivalGeek (TH-cam)
th-cam.com/channels/fRsUPToBXp4ZIre__dJg4A.html
S Geek...
You have some interesting thoughts on the subject.
I will disagree on one statement though. Decreasing the weight of the shot/payload does Not increase pressure. In fact the opposite occurs.. the pressure decreases as the weight of the shot/payload goes down. This applies to all reloading. You only needs to decrease the powder charge if the projectile/payload goes up in weight.
S Geek -- Thanks for the reply... You might have noticed the "Safety Disclaimer" at the beginning of the video... This is how "I" have made Wax Slugs -- and not to be confused with an actual Instructional Video... I have never experienced any over-pressure on any of my slugs -- not to say it is above the realm of possibility... Nor have I ever been shooting where a hot day caused the wax to come out --- Hence why I use and overshot card and Roll Crimp. Hot glue would serve the same purpose -- so, "To each his own". Happy Reloading!! :)
Doesn't any was ever seep through and cause problems with the powder?. Wouldn't it be wiser to make the slugs away from the powder charge ?.
SurvivalNerd is one of these know it all jamokes who thinks he's smarter than everyone else but if you actually read what he said he's probably the dumbest person to leave a comment on this video.
@@probegt75 the nerds in my school where clever , this one's called geek remember. Geeks are normally self taught , wax is pretty light substance depending on the sort , if your cutting the crimp off I'd say it's balancing fit for tat .. denser waxs will hold up to heat a bit better and will keep your slug more in its original form in my opinion (ヘ･_･)ヘ/┻━┻-- cheap candle wax will form a slug as such most lightly break up on firing , but a heavier wax will keep its form right throw the shot ,. Best approach is buy proper slugs for use. . My opinion.
What’s the added benefit of using wax? Wouldn’t it be easier to reload them with just a regular slug?
You can definitely reload them with a slug... The "Wax Slug" method is just a cheap alternative to taking an existing "Field Load" Shotshell, and turning it into a Slug Load. If you are reclaiming your own lead, melting it down and casting your own slugs -- then by all means, create your own "actual" Slug Loads. I do that as well.
This has the advantage of spreading out when it hits the target. It can do significantly more damage than a slug which just drills a big hole. Well, it can at least increase the odds of hitting something vital.
@@johnterpack3940 But the slug, holding together, will achieve greater penetration
than a bunch of light weight pellets spreading apart and loosing energy before
penetrating deeply......
@@doubledranch871 So? A slug is going to go right through a person. All a wax slug has to do is penetrate far enough to hit vital targets.
@@johnterpack3940 As you said "This has the advantage of spreading out when it hits the target"
Exactly, a bunch of birdshot spreading when it hits the target! Small pellets with little mass have little penetrating power......
Flipping them over looks like a good way to lose powder. Sounds sketchy. I think I would fill the slugs with shot and then add the wax that way each shot charge weight is the same. Also why not just cast your own slugs?
I think the point of shot and wax is to minimize spread, not simulate a slug. I could be wrong though as i know nothing about the topic
Agree with your sequence. 2nd- you live in Brownville and/or use to work at D.A.?
@@privateassman8839 I don't know... getting smacked with 1 oz of #4 shot in a 3/4" area & then it breaking apart as it traveled through seems more brutal than a solid slug.
@@carfvallrightsreservedwith6649 probably. It'll probably only work on soft targets. I doubt wax will hold up against any body armor
Where do you find the particular wax you use? I have heard of the same type being used previously in other videos but not how/where to find it.
+DaveTex2375 You do not "have to" use Microcrystalline Wax -- and actually, I have moved away from it - and now just use Paraffin Wax (Gulf Wax). But if you really want to use the Microcrystalline Wax -- here is where you can find it...
www.igiwax.com/igi-products/microcrystallinewax.html
spwax.com/pages/products/Microcrystalline.html
I used paraffin & crayons for color. No problems, just curious. Gulf wax is fine so far.
where can i buy one of those cutters
Why not just reload used shells, fill, with wax and shot and put a regular clip on it?
You got access to primers, power and a reloading press. And what is a clip?
I don't think you know what you're talking about!
15:40 When your putting the bb's people in you HAVE to wiggle the shells let the bbs grit together makes them bond together stronger.. if you put them into something Clear & just dump them in then add wax & let them harden, Or same thing but shake them a bit let them harden youll see what i mean on the sides if you can see it
Where did you get the shotgun cutters
I made them.
Thanks chief
If you just cut the crimped part of it out carefully, then you keep the rolled edge on it.
I just skip the step of putting shot in wax. I load my shot as much as I want with measured dippers then pour the wax in. The liquid wax will fill all the voids.
you should make good money with shell cutters you make !
good video!
USE THE DOWN STOP SO YOU WONT OVER PRESS SHELL AND GET A BULB END.!!
Silly question, why wax shot??
Its inexpensive light and will not harm the barrel. This method is safe and better than cut shells where the hull is cut and travels out the barrel with the shot and wadding together.
@@JettBlast Thanks wasn't really sure the reason for this type of loading.
Cheaper if your time is only worth 25 cents an hour. lol
Can you make me a cutter for my 410g?
Cool
Can you use steel B Bs
Yes, they work great.
How can I get one of those cutters
Did you ever make a video of shooting these?
Selling?
THE USE OF PERRFIN WAX IS BEST STANDS THE HEAT FROM A LOT OF GUN BARREL HEAT!!
do you make the 16ga cutters?
No. Sorry!
@@dkhanlin1 where can I get a set of holders for a 20 gauge
Use a over shot wad so it doesn't fall out
OK, so if wax slugs are so problematic, why WASTE YOUR TIME??
I bought a melting pot and a mold. I melt the lead shot down and turn them into 1oz slugs then roll crimp
I want to so this as well.
I reload shotgun for hunting and shotgun sports. since ive been watching some you tube vids i see these kind of vids all the time now. - I dont doube its not illegal to load and shoot one of these for fun in the desert but, one has to wonder of the legality of using one for self defense.
Learn to edit, opening splash grossly over boosted, dove to lower volume and didn’t realize you were narrating
Can't get a round in ky the hogs get em all before I can get to the store. I just want to squirrel hunt but they making money. I hope they have to eat all of em
Tamp them down...not temp.
LEE LOADERS POWER CUPS MAKE A GOOD MEASURE GUAGE AND ALMOST NO SPILLS, ALSO UNIFORM MEASUREMENTS OF SHOT.!!!
Why the f*ck would you use un shot rounds and not used hulls? Am I missing something? Does this guy just have too much money and time?
Historically ( and/ or according to legend and folklore ) back in the day , usually the Great Depression , country people/ hillbillies/ po folks would only have a box / handful of small game type shells . They wanted/ needed the ability to shoot deer, etc to put food on the table , so created field expedient ways to modify shotshells to do so . Needless to say , if they were too broke to purchase a box of slugs or buckshot , they were too broke to buy reloading gear .
In the modern times are there * better * ways to have deer hunting shotgun loads ? Well yeah ! Not least of which is just buy a 5 pack or two of slugs/ buckshot .
But it's enjoyable to experement . And you could justify to yourself " But what if its the End of the World / massive Civil Unrest , and all you can obtain are Trap loads / Wal Mart promotional loads " .
Of the two main Folklore Expedient methods of improvised slugs , Wax Shells are definitely more forgiving, and less dangerous to the user than " cut shells " .
@@filianablanxart8305 I can buy that, thanks!