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Unfortunately the controller never came with a back sticker so I don’t know the exact model number. I do know that the controller is a V1 (so it has black buttons and the light from the controller is only visible from one side) and that the motherboard revision is JDM-033. Hope that can help you out a bit.

Yes, as of December 2024 I can confirm they still work perfectly! I’ve also installed this type Hall effects in other ps4 controllers and also haven’t encountered any problems so far.

@cr_tech2000 Nice! So in theory, with this upgrade the analog sticks should last pretty much forever since they have no potentiometers that can wear out, right?

@@agustin3710 yes indeed in theory, in practice time will tell but I haven’t heard of any major failures yet. Overtime the magnets might become weaker, but that maybe is a process that takes lots of years to occur. There are no friction points inside the Hall effect sticks potentiometers unlike the regular alps sticks, so at least that point of failure is eliminated.

Happy to hear the video helped out :)

Happy to help, this is why I wanted to make these video’s :)

Thank you, that is much appreciated! I have no idea why they decided this was good design. Especially considering that there are revisions out there that do have a ribbon connector where you can remove the flex pcb without any soldering (those connectors are white). Unfortunately those seem to be pretty rare.

Depends on where the fault is. The fault may be in the flex pcb, the rubber piece between the R1 button and the flex pcb or it could be something on the motherboard. It could also be as simple as some parts needing a good clean. I would at least start with a clean of the button + flex pcb + rubber piece.

That would be correct - Sony had them in their sixaxis / DualShock 3 controllers which are from the same period. Shame they got rid of it in the ps4 / ps5 controllers.

@@cr_tech2000i guess they believed alps was better but the whole dual sense edge stick module replacement that they’re doing makes me believe that they want us to keep buying replacements instead of having an “end all be all” option

@@lunaurticExactly, on faulty PS4 controllers I controllers I’ll always replace the stick whether it’s the main issue or not, since I’ve had them fail out of nowhere sometimes. Now on PS3 it is rare to see stickdrift, I’ve mostly had it on the non-hall effect versions of the controller (first gen sixaxis, the very last revision DualShock and the asuka version). On the Hall effect version the sticks only tend to fail mechanically (the internal spring is loose, dust and grime that got into the stick etc).

You mean the piece that is sticking out right? Honestly, I don't now for sure, but I suspect that it is responsible for the sixaxis functionality. And since sixaxis is rarely used in ps3 games, you might get away with leaving it off the board. So if you haven't encountered any problems you should be ok :)

Thank you so much. I always read that sixxasis but to tell you the truth I do not know how that works in game😅. Good to know that I can still use my controller even I torn that part behid the charging port

For some reason I can’t get you a link, but if you Google ‘controllers lite’, it should be the first result you get. (But be aware that this is a Mac OS only app and doesn’t work with windows etc.) Edit: had some brainfog, above program is useful for ps1/2 controllers. I used this to install the drives for Xbox controllers: github.com/360controller/360controller/releases (Also Mac only & unfortunately hasn’t been updated to work with newer os versions, so 10.11 is the last compatible version - wish I would’ve found that out before I updated my computer:( )

No not after market. I think most DualShock 3’s actually already had Hall effect sticks in them (you can recognise them by the 4 pins on each potentiometer). But those are unfortunately very difficult to get.

@@letraschinasxD Edit: ah mis read your comment completely- no, unfortunately there are no Hall effect for PS3 available- only the 4 pins, and those cannot be fitted in this revision. PS4 Hall effects might not work as intended, but those would be your best shot I think, since there are the same size.

I do not wish to do my hair with this hot air gun mate haha. It is a hot air gun - just a cheap one used at a relative low temperature (< 400C). A high quality hot air used at 450 C will indeed do a better job than I did.

Yes, in my experience is best to add some solder (especially on these boards with unleaded solder) before trying to desolder. I usually add leaded solder and low melt solder to lower the melting temperature to make it easy to desolder those analog sticks.

@@cr_tech2000 ah yes thank u thank u, i broke my board anyway lol. It was too hard for amateur like me

@@melankolie1343 ah that’s unfortunate, but hey we all gotta start learning somewhere right :)

@@cr_tech2000 yeah learned something by this. Anyway do u have any experience about this error? th-cam.com/video/wCobT7rqN48/w-d-xo.html i unplugged everything, just have power connected

Oof, that is some serious drift. Few questions: 1. are these Hall effects or normal sticks/ 2. Did you attempt any type of calibration? Also (if you worked on the sticks) make sure that your solder joints are clean so they make a good connection (bad connection can cause for the potentiometers to not register properly). Maybe check the connections from stick to board with a multimeter to ensure good connection/ confirm there are no toen traces. Hope that helps!

@@8bitnation419 not sure if that was available at the time of recording (this was recording quite a while before uploading) - but I do indeed mostly software calibration nowadays instead of manually

No reballing required - you will only need to desolder the old analog stick and then resolder the new Hall effect stick

Thanks!

Absolutely true - the unleaded solder that is used nowadays makes it even more difficult. On older controllers (PS2, original Xbox) it takes me maybe a minute to remove a analog stick. On these ones it takes easily 15 minutes. I have my iron around 335 C, which in combination with low melt solder is enough to remove the analog stick.

Yeah the PS4 controllers have quite some different revisions, which would make it difficult to use the parts to make 1 good controller. Even when I repair PS4 controllers I tend to buy some separate parts for each revision. But I’ll always change out the sticks whether that is the issue or not, since I’ve had those fail seemingly out of nowhere. Very unreliable. I am curious tho - did al of your PS4 controllers fail because of stickdrift or did you encounter different problems on each?

I honestly only have experience with these PS4 orange Hall effect analogs in the video, so I can’t tell you what the ‘best’ Hall effect is. The biggest difference as far as I know is in how you calibrate them (for the orange ones you need to do that by hand and for the blue ones you need software).

It's not that much work this guy is just making it look complicated because he doesn't have no proper tools

Honestly not sure if they make these for the elite 2. These ones in the video are made for PS4 controllers and will not work in Xbox/PS5 controllers.

Don’t remember exactly for this video, but on average I use a temperature between 355-390C, airflow speed 50-70% (but that is in combination with the use of low melt solder to remove the stick faster).

Sounds like the analogs are shot honestly. Maybe try connect the controller to a PC and test it with gamepad tester.

Thanks for the kind words! Maybe you got an older version of these Halleffects. In the video I use a version 3 stick, I believe version 1 and 2 had problems with latency and/or jittery responses

@@cr_tech2000v5s are out now, personally I think it’s a scam because why does it take 5 versions to get joysticks right? Also they don’t say in the description about what the difference is anyway.

@@H786... I didn’t know they were already at v5’s. No idea what could be different to be honest, the sticks I installed in this video are still working fine till this day (v3’s). As far as I know you should at least not be getting v1’s & v2’s, those have problems with lag/ jittering. Guess time will tell if v5’s are any better then v3’s.

You’re absolutely right. The desolder pump stopped working shortly after this vid. So I got the ENGINEER SS-02 and has been working wonderful so far!