yes it does jitter --- not sure how much in a game (i was away for 10 days did not tested in game ) but i could see it in testing software - i will look into it to see if any way to fix that. (as i still think it gives you some room to center it rather than try tens of resistive one or use paralel variabile resistor board)
For 1708 your best bet would be to use K-Silver JH13 HE sensors for a manual calibration on Ginfull sticks. (If to low tension is not to your liking you can swap the spring with a 0.6mmX8.5mmX10mm , 7mm lentgh if you can find it. Standard compression spring thickness is 0.5mm) If you trim the 3 pegs from the sensor this allows you to lift the sensors off the board to reduce Circularity error. To 8-15% based on personal preference. If this is not done. You will be maxing out your inputs 2-4mm before hitting the edge. Having 21.5% on left stick is good as long as it's symmetrical. But bad for the r-stick since it will be to fast. (Adjusting for simmetry and tested at 60-80% inputs can be done with a thumcap stem measuring 13mm in thickness.) It is tedious but it can be done without the need of calibration PCBs that add delay. - Now for what you describe it's actually EMI-interference from the LT trigger magnet. That all HE/TMR sensors suffer from. I've ran a build for close to 3 years now. Where I use 0.2-0.4mm thick steel sheet to reflect EMI. Placed on top of the X&Y (with a small gap cut off for the he sensor for the trigger to work from 0-100%) You can in the other hand use Elecgear/Yun calibration PCB to calibrate or reduce EMI. Or install a DIY reflector with a ferrous metal. Or Mu-Metal (cheapest I've seen is $6 an inch sold by the inch.) Or the third option using resistors 100k ohm voltage to signal. 47k ohm signal to ground on each axis. Depending on how well you DIY the part you can reduce it by alot. Without it you'd get 5-20% input do to interference. Simulating sensor drift everytime you press LT. I have a build that X receive close to no effect with Y getting 0.0003-0.003 of emi. Virtually 0% with LT causing no issues when ADS/LT press. They recenter below 0.005 = mechanically center without deadzones. - Now if you experience jitter. On gamepad firnware versions 5.21/5.22 you can downgrade the firmware. This will eliminate all the dancing around you see from inputs that cause issues with microadjustment inputs. Do to a change/mishandle of voltage on those versions do to power conservation efforts. Firmware 5.23 ads 2-5% inner deadzone, and further reduces a calibration with a 3% outer deadzone. (Only eliminates the jitter on 1914 gamepads and not older). It's best to run 3.1 factory firmware with 1708 models. If you are using HE/TMR sensors.
I have several daughter boards with broken pads. Like, alot of broken pads. I don't know how helpful this video would be to me, but perhaps I could try
is doable! is not nice - you have to have patience (a lot!! - let it be if you lost the patience and do it some other time) -- need a microscope or at least a camera one (this is mandatory - i really don't think is doable without) - some copper strains of wire - always work with long wire - solder on the end than the second and than cut - do not try to put the wire already cut as will go allover the place....and track down the broken traces through the vias - untill you find a good bigger spot to solder -- and as long as you do the connection it does not matter how it looks - if it work and fits the case - all good :D
are there any issues with interference on the left thumb stick when pressing the left trigger button? There is a magnet in the trigger that when pressed interferes with the left thumbstick. Just wondering if they have fixed this issue in the newer hall effect stick replacements.
yes - it is on the left trigger - i still did not tested it in a game - but while checking with the software i did seen it jitters a bit -- when i have the time i will chase this up (want to see if i put a shielding around it - will it still do the same?). For this particular model on Xbox one controller i still think is the way to go and if i can offset that interference - than would be great. I will make another video when i try that....
@@AdyWorkshop I have ordered both these and the new TMR sticks. The TMR sticks are suppose to reduce the interference to negligible levels. Let me know how much interference there is so that I don't waste my time installing these. I imagine it will effect some games fore that others.
@@MarkSavidesThe Hallpi/Gulikit NS51 TMR. Doesn't not have any way to combat EMI. There is no shielding. All that was done was place the sensor and magnet assembly slightly higher. EMI is only less in comparison to other sensor assemblies. But you would still receive 3-10% simulated input from interference. In comparison to 5-20% But you can reduce it further with a 0.2-0.4mm thick ferrous metal like steel. And make it not do much to not affect gameplay. By placing it over X&Y. My main 1708 get less then 0.0003-0.003 virtually zero. Not affecting gameplay. But you do have to DIY the part. Ginfull did also release there TMR variant a couple of days ago. For older gamepads. On has to go through tedious process to manual calibrate or use a PCB. RS inputs will max out 2-4mm before hitting the edge. If higher than 14% error. Causing issues with muscle memery. If you use newer models like Elite2 1797 or Series 1914. You can use Xbox calibration tool. But these sensors are calibrating to 2-6% circularity error. And being close to undeshoot. 8-13% is the sweet spot for Xbox gamepads that don't use radial. Any slight deviation from the calibration causes the inputs to either spazz out or max out in range. All HE/TMR don't run well with Xbox calibration to the this underlying issue. Forcing someone to reboot the gamepad. This is an issue many third-party modded/company don't tell there customers. And that is the issue. Although they are getting close. HE/TMR is still not there to replace new potentiometers. Microsoft not supporting right-to-repair and working with people to improve calibration is not making it easy.
What exactly you are doing with small pin in the stick? I have first generation Xbox One controller (2014 year of production) and i have installed hall effect sticks today, Left one is a bit off to the left, not that big of concern, as both of the sticks have 20 percencts of dead zones durin circular test, any way to fix that?
Just going to copy&paste a comment I just made. For older models you can use a calibration PCB. Or if you got the time practice with manual calibration techniques. For 1708 and older. Your best bet would be to use K-Silver JH13 HE sensors for a manual calibration on Ginfull sticks. (If to low tension is not to your liking you can swap the spring with a 0.6mmX8.5mmX10mm , 7mm lentgh if you can find it. Standard compression spring thickness is 0.5mm) To recenter. Some sensors one is actually bending and deforming the peg that holds the magnet assembly. Do to mechanical variance. It is done to no only try and recenter the magnet to below 0.005 = 0%. And depending on well you positioned the joystick module before soldering the sensors. This allows to also even out simmetry of inputs. If you trim the 3 pegs from the sensor this allows you to lift the sensors off the board to reduce Circularity error. To 8-15% based on personal preference. If this is not done. You will be maxing out your inputs 2-4mm before hitting the edge. Having 21.5% on left stick is good as long as it's symmetrical. But bad for the r-stick since it will be to fast. (Adjusting for simmetry and tested at 60-80% inputs can be done with a thumcap stem measuring 13mm in thickness.) It is tedious but it can be done without the need of calibration PCBs that add delay. - Now for what you describe it's actually EMI-interference from the LT trigger magnet. That all HE/TMR sensors suffer from. I've ran a build for close to 3 years now. Where I use 0.2-0.4mm thick steel sheet to reflect EMI. Placed on top of the X&Y (with a small gap cut off for the he sensor for the trigger to work from 0-100%) You can in the other hand use Elecgear/Yun calibration PCB to calibrate or reduce EMI. Or install a DIY reflector with a ferrous metal. Or Mu-Metal (cheapest I've seen is $6 an inch sold by the inch.) Or the third option using resistors 100k ohm voltage to signal. 47k ohm signal to ground on each axis. Depending on how well you DIY the part you can reduce it by alot. Without it you'd get 5-20% input do to interference. Simulating sensor drift everytime you press LT. I have a build that X receive close to no effect with Y getting 0.0003-0.003 of emi. Virtually 0% with LT causing no issues when ADS/LT press. They recenter below 0.005 = mechanically center without deadzones. My LS is at 21.5% and RS at 13% do to personal preference. - Now if you experience jitter. On gamepad firnware versions 5.21/5.22 you can downgrade the firmware. This will eliminate all the dancing around you see from inputs that cause issues with microadjustment inputs. Do to a change/mishandle of voltage on those versions do to power conservation efforts. Firmware 5.23 ads 2-5% inner deadzone, and further reduces a calibration with a 3% outer deadzone. (Only eliminates the jitter on 1914 gamepads and not older). It's best to run 3.1 factory firmware with 1708 models. If you are using HE/TMR sensors.
Without a driver board for that hall effect stick and being a microusb version one - means there is no way to calibrate range. (the type C usb controller can be calibrated via microsoft tool) For that needs the driver board that allows you to adjust the range and center but that is much more expensive. (around 5 UDS for the stick - and 20 usd stick with driver board) So far the ones i could calibrate including range without a driver board - pure software calibration - were ps4 and ps5 controllers. I will get another Xbox one controller to repair and on that one i will put hall effect with driver board and see how it goes and i will make a video of....
There is a common misconception of circularity error. Although 21.8% even corners may do well with the Left stick.producing more responsive movement inputs. It is bad for the Right Stick. But having a perfect circle on a gamepad that doesn't not use a radial calibration will hinder performance. Painting in or on the line will have issue with undershooting. Those diagnals have a purpose. Symmetrical at 8-14% error aslong as you max out the second you hit the edge and not more than 1mm before. Is far better then 2-6% with no diagnals.
Where i can find that board holder?
i heard about using these particular hall effect unless it's v2 or maybe i think the v3 is that the left stick will cause jitter near the Left trigger
yes it does jitter --- not sure how much in a game (i was away for 10 days did not tested in game ) but i could see it in testing software - i will look into it to see if any way to fix that. (as i still think it gives you some room to center it rather than try tens of resistive one or use paralel variabile resistor board)
For 1708 your best bet would be to use K-Silver JH13 HE sensors for a manual calibration on Ginfull sticks. (If to low tension is not to your liking you can swap the spring with a 0.6mmX8.5mmX10mm , 7mm lentgh if you can find it. Standard compression spring thickness is 0.5mm)
If you trim the 3 pegs from the sensor this allows you to lift the sensors off the board to reduce Circularity error. To 8-15% based on personal preference. If this is not done. You will be maxing out your inputs 2-4mm before hitting the edge. Having 21.5% on left stick is good as long as it's symmetrical. But bad for the r-stick since it will be to fast. (Adjusting for simmetry and tested at 60-80% inputs can be done with a thumcap stem measuring 13mm in thickness.)
It is tedious but it can be done without the need of calibration PCBs that add delay.
-
Now for what you describe it's actually EMI-interference from the LT trigger magnet. That all HE/TMR sensors suffer from. I've ran a build for close to 3 years now. Where I use 0.2-0.4mm thick steel sheet to reflect EMI. Placed on top of the X&Y (with a small gap cut off for the he sensor for the trigger to work from 0-100%)
You can in the other hand use Elecgear/Yun calibration PCB to calibrate or reduce EMI. Or install a DIY reflector with a ferrous metal. Or Mu-Metal (cheapest I've seen is $6 an inch sold by the inch.) Or the third option using resistors 100k ohm voltage to signal. 47k ohm signal to ground on each axis.
Depending on how well you DIY the part you can reduce it by alot. Without it you'd get 5-20% input do to interference. Simulating sensor drift everytime you press LT.
I have a build that X receive close to no effect with Y getting 0.0003-0.003 of emi. Virtually 0% with LT causing no issues when ADS/LT press. They recenter below 0.005 = mechanically center without deadzones.
-
Now if you experience jitter. On gamepad firnware versions 5.21/5.22 you can downgrade the firmware. This will eliminate all the dancing around you see from inputs that cause issues with microadjustment inputs. Do to a change/mishandle of voltage on those versions do to power conservation efforts. Firmware 5.23 ads 2-5% inner deadzone, and further reduces a calibration with a 3% outer deadzone. (Only eliminates the jitter on 1914 gamepads and not older). It's best to run 3.1 factory firmware with 1708 models. If you are using HE/TMR sensors.
I have several daughter boards with broken pads. Like, alot of broken pads. I don't know how helpful this video would be to me, but perhaps I could try
*a lot
is doable! is not nice - you have to have patience (a lot!! - let it be if you lost the patience and do it some other time) -- need a microscope or at least a camera one (this is mandatory - i really don't think is doable without) - some copper strains of wire - always work with long wire - solder on the end than the second and than cut - do not try to put the wire already cut as will go allover the place....and track down the broken traces through the vias - untill you find a good bigger spot to solder -- and as long as you do the connection it does not matter how it looks - if it work and fits the case - all good :D
are there any issues with interference on the left thumb stick when pressing the left trigger button? There is a magnet in the trigger that when pressed interferes with the left thumbstick. Just wondering if they have fixed this issue in the newer hall effect stick replacements.
yes - it is on the left trigger - i still did not tested it in a game - but while checking with the software i did seen it jitters a bit -- when i have the time i will chase this up (want to see if i put a shielding around it - will it still do the same?). For this particular model on Xbox one controller i still think is the way to go and if i can offset that interference - than would be great. I will make another video when i try that....
@@AdyWorkshop I have ordered both these and the new TMR sticks. The TMR sticks are suppose to reduce the interference to negligible levels. Let me know how much interference there is so that I don't waste my time installing these. I imagine it will effect some games fore that others.
@@MarkSavidesThe Hallpi/Gulikit NS51 TMR. Doesn't not have any way to combat EMI. There is no shielding. All that was done was place the sensor and magnet assembly slightly higher.
EMI is only less in comparison to other sensor assemblies. But you would still receive 3-10% simulated input from interference. In comparison to 5-20%
But you can reduce it further with a 0.2-0.4mm thick ferrous metal like steel. And make it not do much to not affect gameplay. By placing it over X&Y. My main 1708 get less then 0.0003-0.003 virtually zero. Not affecting gameplay. But you do have to DIY the part.
Ginfull did also release there TMR variant a couple of days ago. For older gamepads. On has to go through tedious process to manual calibrate or use a PCB. RS inputs will max out 2-4mm before hitting the edge. If higher than 14% error. Causing issues with muscle memery. If you use newer models like Elite2 1797 or Series 1914. You can use Xbox calibration tool.
But these sensors are calibrating to 2-6% circularity error. And being close to undeshoot. 8-13% is the sweet spot for Xbox gamepads that don't use radial.
Any slight deviation from the calibration causes the inputs to either spazz out or max out in range. All HE/TMR don't run well with Xbox calibration to the this underlying issue. Forcing someone to reboot the gamepad.
This is an issue many third-party modded/company don't tell there customers. And that is the issue. Although they are getting close. HE/TMR is still not there to replace new potentiometers.
Microsoft not supporting right-to-repair and working with people to improve calibration is not making it easy.
What exactly you are doing with small pin in the stick? I have first generation Xbox One controller (2014 year of production) and i have installed hall effect sticks today, Left one is a bit off to the left, not that big of concern, as both of the sticks have 20 percencts of dead zones durin circular test, any way to fix that?
Just going to copy&paste a comment I just made. For older models you can use a calibration PCB. Or if you got the time practice with manual calibration techniques.
For 1708 and older. Your best bet would be to use K-Silver JH13 HE sensors for a manual calibration on Ginfull sticks. (If to low tension is not to your liking you can swap the spring with a 0.6mmX8.5mmX10mm , 7mm lentgh if you can find it. Standard compression spring thickness is 0.5mm)
To recenter. Some sensors one is actually bending and deforming the peg that holds the magnet assembly. Do to mechanical variance. It is done to no only try and recenter the magnet to below 0.005 = 0%. And depending on well you positioned the joystick module before soldering the sensors. This allows to also even out simmetry of inputs.
If you trim the 3 pegs from the sensor this allows you to lift the sensors off the board to reduce Circularity error. To 8-15% based on personal preference. If this is not done. You will be maxing out your inputs 2-4mm before hitting the edge. Having 21.5% on left stick is good as long as it's symmetrical. But bad for the r-stick since it will be to fast. (Adjusting for simmetry and tested at 60-80% inputs can be done with a thumcap stem measuring 13mm in thickness.)
It is tedious but it can be done without the need of calibration PCBs that add delay.
-
Now for what you describe it's actually EMI-interference from the LT trigger magnet. That all HE/TMR sensors suffer from. I've ran a build for close to 3 years now. Where I use 0.2-0.4mm thick steel sheet to reflect EMI. Placed on top of the X&Y (with a small gap cut off for the he sensor for the trigger to work from 0-100%)
You can in the other hand use Elecgear/Yun calibration PCB to calibrate or reduce EMI. Or install a DIY reflector with a ferrous metal. Or Mu-Metal (cheapest I've seen is $6 an inch sold by the inch.) Or the third option using resistors 100k ohm voltage to signal. 47k ohm signal to ground on each axis.
Depending on how well you DIY the part you can reduce it by alot. Without it you'd get 5-20% input do to interference. Simulating sensor drift everytime you press LT.
I have a build that X receive close to no effect with Y getting 0.0003-0.003 of emi. Virtually 0% with LT causing no issues when ADS/LT press. They recenter below 0.005 = mechanically center without deadzones. My LS is at 21.5% and RS at 13% do to personal preference.
-
Now if you experience jitter. On gamepad firnware versions 5.21/5.22 you can downgrade the firmware. This will eliminate all the dancing around you see from inputs that cause issues with microadjustment inputs. Do to a change/mishandle of voltage on those versions do to power conservation efforts. Firmware 5.23 ads 2-5% inner deadzone, and further reduces a calibration with a 3% outer deadzone. (Only eliminates the jitter on 1914 gamepads and not older). It's best to run 3.1 factory firmware with 1708 models. If you are using HE/TMR sensors.
Outrange setting is impossible? Stick range profile is square not circle
Without a driver board for that hall effect stick and being a microusb version one - means there is no way to calibrate range. (the type C usb controller can be calibrated via microsoft tool) For that needs the driver board that allows you to adjust the range and center but that is much more expensive. (around 5 UDS for the stick - and 20 usd stick with driver board) So far the ones i could calibrate including range without a driver board - pure software calibration - were ps4 and ps5 controllers. I will get another Xbox one controller to repair and on that one i will put hall effect with driver board and see how it goes and i will make a video of....
There is a common misconception of circularity error. Although 21.8% even corners may do well with the Left stick.producing more responsive movement inputs. It is bad for the Right Stick.
But having a perfect circle on a gamepad that doesn't not use a radial calibration will hinder performance. Painting in or on the line will have issue with undershooting. Those diagnals have a purpose. Symmetrical at 8-14% error aslong as you max out the second you hit the edge and not more than 1mm before. Is far better then 2-6% with no diagnals.