Year ago I bought an 85’ with efi and automatic transmission. It was the 165 hp but it was very quick. I out ran many of the untouched 83-84s with five speeds. I took some of the 85s with five speed. I wanted more out of it, but there wasn’t a lot available for the efi throttle body cars available. It had manifolds instead of the shorty headers. I found a totaled 85 and pulled the headers, gutted the cars and added flow masters. I had a bunch of mustang parts from my 65’ and put a pair of ford Motorsport heads on it. I put a set of 308 gears and it was alive. I dusted so many mustangs and cameros in that car. Beat a few corvettes. I always wanted to race a grand national but never got a chance. Open the hood and there was no way to tell it wasn’t straight factory. It was fun to run!
Another important speed trick that I failed to mention to my racing buddies back in the early 90’s that’s very important is the Throttle Position Sensor. If memory serves me, you wanted it to be close to 1.00 on your reader. Another thing is to get someone to press the gas pedal and look to see if the butterfly in the throttle body is 90 degrees at WOT.
Went from 3.08 to 3.55 and was good . Then went from 3.55 to 3.90 motive gears and was awesome. Put the 3.55 in my wifes car from 2.73 and she was happy too. It's a win win. Both 5 speed cars.
Oh yeah! when my car was AOD went from the stock 3.27 gear to 4.10 gear, Big difference, then went from stock converter to a 10" 3500 stall with a Silver Fox valvebody, another big difference, those mods definitely made the car alot faster and way more fun to drive!
@@vrm86gt oh yeah .. well then la tee da good for you !!! Lmbo im kidding man … sometimes im just amazed at how much one or 2 things we can do to these cars can make such a drastic change … lol
I’ve been around a lot of car guys because I grew up around racing. I can always tell if someone knows what they are talking about and Brew2l in my opinion is the best on TH-cam. I think he’s learned the majority of his Foxbody knowledge from experience and trial and error. Thanks Brew2l !!
Great video and I agree with gears being a huge help. I went 273 to 373 with my t-5 and was blown away now years later I did gt40p heads and intake and I can tell you it's all starting to feel like a hot rod now.
In the late 80's there weren't a ton of parts. My winning formula back then was: 150hp Nitrous kit, McCreary G60-15 dirt tires, gears and pulleys. Short belt to bypass smog and power steering at the track.
Pretty much my exact mods back in the day. I added the nitrous just because I got walked by a GN. Hunted him down and returned the favor after I got the spray.
Had a 89' coupe with trick flows,crane 2040 cam, cobra intake,24lbs inj,and some 3:73 gears and ran a 12.36 @115 in the early 90's and was the king of the streets 😆 🤣 love your channel btw its nostalgic,makes me want to get back in the Fox game!
I got rid of my smog pump. Got a set of under drive pulleys. My a/c doesn't work so i got a shorter belt. BBK cold air intake. 373 gears and a aluminum drive shaft. Such a huge difference.
Not a Mustang, but I had a bone stock low milage 95 F150 XLT single cab roller 5.0 with AODE. I did a few mods all at once that cut the 1/4 mile time by almost two full seconds. Homemade CAI, True duel Dynomax Exhaust, Hypertech performance 91 octane chip, TCI Saturday Night Special Torque converter, 3.73 gears. So for $1700 (back in 2012) and two weeks of work. I totally transformed the personality of the truck... I eventually did a cam, headers, injectors and got a little more out of it, but nothing like that first round of mods
Cold air....I removed a fog light from my front bumper cover and used a flexible clothes dryer vent tube painted black, rigged it to the fog light opening and up to the air box. It's not "forced induction" so much as just direct cooler air.
as far as gears, you can go as high as 3.73 in the automatic cars to wake them up and keep them street-able. we also ran 180* stats to trick out the computer to run a little richer. Timing: Crank that shit up until you hear it ping, then back it off a little. Be sure to run 92+ octane though. Tire pressures on radials can help- but you have to just find the sweet spot on whatever tires you are running. This is all old school stuff though.
Summer of '98 I sold my super low-mile 87 coupe for $6500 and bought a 91 GT with a blown AOD for $1900. I spent the difference (plus more) to swap the GT to a tr-3550, heads, cam, intake, gears, suspension, and a shimmed 5115 dry kit spraying 175 on Hoosier quick time pros. MF'ING RACECAR 😂😂😂😂. It barely scraped into the 11's in that Texas heat. Couldn't tell me shit, I felt like John Force 😂
One thing that is well worth the money if you plan on banging gears and are getting traction is to reinforce the torque boxes. I put every bolt-on power adder and reinforcements like G-Load brace, strut tower brace, sub-frame connectors, except for a supercharger or turbo and ripped the torque boxes apart on my '86 GT and 91 LX.
On the subject of tires, if you live in an area with a lot of dirt track racers, like me, I used to buy used IMCA Hoosier G60 tires for 20 bucks a pair. And they worked very well with a lot of heat in them
My 89 gt with just long tubes o/r h pipe, cai, cobra manifold, 65mm throttle body, maf sensor, and underdrives beats and puts up good races with a lot of newer cars still having the 2.73 gears and even did the same when it was just headers, exhaust, and cai
You should do gt40 heads from an explorer, cam, and 373 gears you talk about waking that car up. With a sticky tire you'll be taking newer cars out to the wood shed at red lights lol.
355s are the way to go with 5spd. 💯 correct. I built a 93 back in 2000. But I didn't change rear gears until I got new 347 with vic Jr heads & all that good stuff to track & car ran the same time & I was furious at 19yrs old. I didn't understand how much rear gears would help. Omg. I put a posi unit with 355s and I went from 9.20s to 8.0s
I had those $72 eBay 3.73 gears in my shopping cart for the past week. I quickly clicked purchase now. 😅 I’d rather have used Oem gears and some new koyo bearings over most of the new stuff. Usually only need backlash adjustment.
On my 94 gt, after the timing bump and cold air intake. I did a catless X pipe to flow masters that dumped under the car. It really really woke that stock 302 up. The drone though was painful lol
I'm looking into what I want to do first with my foxbody, already converted to carb as I find it easier to work with, timing is up would suggest everyone to just buy a new balancer off the bat to be safe, thinking 4.10's + maybe the summit 303 cam, hope that's a decent little combo for now
A dual line mechanical secondary Holley 750, 3 bar heads not 4 and get a dual plane performer intake.and lastly some a set of headers whatever u can make fit wrap them also .make sure the vacum adavance is working on that distributor then tune everything . it ahould have a nice punch to it...
all the mustang guys here in montreal canada they remove sway bar and add 4 cylinder coils in front and a 70 30 adjustable shock and the 60 ft is so much better ...
My 2 cents. An explorer GT40 will add good power after all those mods. I also sometimes run an underdrive crank pulley I found at Fun Ford in the 90's. This pulley is about the size of the alternator pulley in diameter with the bolts on the outside of the flange. Don't know where they sell those anymore but it will free up some serious power especially up top but doesn't keep the battery charged worth S*%&t. A nice set of equal length or long tube headers are worth some power too.
Smog eliminated, b cam, gears, frame ties, off road pipe, used 4 cylinder coils and front struts, ssm lift bars would clean house on the streets in the 90's.
Only $600 for a set of drag radials Nakea. Man, have you guys ever got it good and cheap down there. I just bought a set of Mickey Thompson’s for the back of my car and they were pennies shy of 1150 installed and balanced. Anything that you guys do down there cost us literally twice the price to do the exact same thing up here. Americans have absolutely nothing to complain about 😂
While on the subject of that broomstick handle mod… the good ole smog delete is an easy one. Another cheap one to save some ponies is an electric fan in place of the engine driven fan.
Honestly man, I prefer these mild mods. I'd rather rid the motor out, clean, replace, strengthen up with beefed up parts. Ain't nothing better then a healthy running five0 with a mild cam, intake, timing bump and exhaust, smog and power bypass👍
Great pointers, don't forget about weight reduction. Ditch the spare and jack and anything else you don't need. I didn't need an interior, a stereo, heat and ac, power steering or carpet. Just 2 15 lb race buckets and that sweet V8 music annihilating my ears 😂 long tube headers. I run a short belt just for an alternator, zero parasitic losses, 2650 lbs total weight, 4.10s and a T5 and taking these farmers pick up trucks to full course at Gapplebees when the mood strikes
I'd enjoy having you help me rebuild my 89 mustang if oi had the money I'd pay you to restore the entire car But ii gotta do it all myself in order to learn 💯
@@laynemccormick7533 the only way to go, instead of a rebuild of a T5 I would just upgrade to a brand Z-Spec it can handle more horse over the stalk T5 and has a 2.95 1st geat ratio...for the Steeper gears and .63 in the 5th gear is great for cruising.
When I owned a four eyed fox, I went for underdrive pulleys. I never noticed a difference. Did any of you notice a difference when you put the pulleys on your car? Just wondering.
I’ve got most of the list already. I need to get a set of drag radials for fun at the track. Although I didn’t intend on drag racing my car when I built it. But the 275/40 r17 GoodYear F1 tires are pointless for hooking up on the street.
You guys had such a (ROBUST) aftermarket..... Thridgen F-Body twin guys were limited to specialized companies who was through the roof and half the performance.. A great example is exhaust.. Only (1) Company offered a mandrel bent header that flowed well enough and did okay. SLP While you guys had 50 different header, h-pipe, etc companies, we had like (1-3) and stuck with 3" MAX sized single over axle pipe. It just goes on and on like that. Hell, we was stuck with a Australian made 9 Bolt 7.75" rear-end that you could only source parts from via (1) company!!! Ratech didn't even come out with a serious rebuild/breaing kit until mid/late 2000's!!! I was so jealous at what you guys had for offerings compared to us.. Hell, i was the (1ST IN THE WORLD) to put 17x9 Cobra R 5 lug's on a Thirdgen T/A in 2001.... Just had to know what was the best bang for the buck back then... But you guys had more options than anyone...
The “10-Minute Tune Up” did wonders, if you know you know.. Evan Smith, Uncle Tony, and many of us were doing this in the late 80s. This is essentially what this video is going over.
Too bad you can’t do a vid on deleting smog pump. That would be nice. Explorer 8.8 is 31 spline limited slip, usually already has 3:55.s. Will require a new set of axles.
@@silkyjohnson510 I think I'm gonna fill the ports that bolt to the back of the block with alumiweld or job weld. Honestly I just carved little tree branches and plug vacuum lines til I can find right size bolts and hose clamps. It's off the car now. I think itll be easier than I thought.
nope ill never need to remove a sceen on my stock maf...cuase.....i put meself a freakin crown vic mas on it yes big hole for the goal~~~~!!!! i would never go back to the stock maf meter~~~~~ period (picket it up on ebay like 10 bucks..)
@@hotrodray6802 According to timeslips they do. A 70mm makes a significant difference over the stock Fox 55mm with even mild stuff like GT40s, cam, etc.
at the first 1:00 ive asked many and even foxcast with no answer and never understood..i know you not a coyotee swap guy but why is it bad for hot air fender filter for a 5.0 pushrod but it seems to be a regular thang for coyotee swaps and new motors put it hot sitting right by motor and wtf...just sayin (scratch head)...
Hot air is not good for the Coyote engine either. Cooler air is always better. Pretty sure the reason why we see that on just about every Coyote swapped Fox is due to space. Not having enough room because it is to sharp of a bend to get the air from the filter to the throttle body.
No dude just no. For the price a 5.3 will cost you to swap in there you could drop a 351 in it and keep it Ford. A stock 5.3 isn't gonna be up 100 hp over a 5.0 ho. It would have to be putting down 300 to the tires to be up 100 hp. And no a cammed ls isn't a stock ls. If you wanna build an ls just get a gm vehicle it's not that hard. So sick of the beat to death ls bs in mustangs.
Year ago I bought an 85’ with efi and automatic transmission. It was the 165 hp but it was very quick. I out ran many of the untouched 83-84s with five speeds. I took some of the 85s with five speed. I wanted more out of it, but there wasn’t a lot available for the efi throttle body cars available. It had manifolds instead of the shorty headers. I found a totaled 85 and pulled the headers, gutted the cars and added flow masters. I had a bunch of mustang parts from my 65’ and put a pair of ford Motorsport heads on it. I put a set of 308 gears and it was alive. I dusted so many mustangs and cameros in that car. Beat a few corvettes. I always wanted to race a grand national but never got a chance. Open the hood and there was no way to tell it wasn’t straight factory. It was fun to run!
Another important speed trick that I failed to mention to my racing buddies back in the early 90’s that’s very important is the Throttle Position Sensor. If memory serves me, you wanted it to be close to 1.00 on your reader. Another thing is to get someone to press the gas pedal and look to see if the butterfly in the throttle body is 90 degrees at WOT.
Went from 3.08 to 3.55 and was good . Then went from 3.55 to 3.90 motive gears and was awesome. Put the 3.55 in my wifes car from 2.73 and she was happy too. It's a win win. Both 5 speed cars.
My car has a c4 in it .. i went from a stock converter to a 2800 stall and from a 308 to a 373 at the same time .. that was a huge difference 😊
Oh yeah! when my car was AOD went from the stock 3.27 gear to 4.10 gear, Big difference, then went from stock converter to a 10" 3500 stall with a Silver Fox valvebody, another big difference, those mods definitely made the car alot faster and way more fun to drive!
@@vrm86gt oh yeah .. well then la tee da good for you !!! Lmbo im kidding man … sometimes im just amazed at how much one or 2 things we can do to these cars can make such a drastic change … lol
@@glennramsey917 for sure, gear change was a huge +++!
I’ve been around a lot of car guys because I grew up around racing. I can always tell if someone knows what they are talking about and Brew2l in my opinion is the best on TH-cam. I think he’s learned the majority of his Foxbody knowledge from experience and trial and error. Thanks Brew2l !!
A gear is the best mod for the money imo
I remember all those. Good walk through memory lane, bud.
Sticker , stickers make power lol
Totally agree, changing gears to even 3.73 with a auto will make huge seat in the pants difference.
Lmao "certain modifications"😂 great video and tips brew definitely an extremely helpful spot on video for the guys just gettin into these cars
Well put together video Brother! Great tips on easy mods for the DIY person! My favorite gears are 3.73's. They really spice things up!
Great video and I agree with gears being a huge help. I went 273 to 373 with my t-5 and was blown away now years later I did gt40p heads and intake and I can tell you it's all starting to feel like a hot rod now.
In the late 80's there weren't a ton of parts. My winning formula back then was: 150hp Nitrous kit, McCreary G60-15 dirt tires, gears and pulleys. Short belt to bypass smog and power steering at the track.
Winning combo!
The G60 dirt tires we’re definitely an old school hack and the mfers worked
Pretty much my exact mods back in the day. I added the nitrous just because I got walked by a GN. Hunted him down and returned the favor after I got the spray.
Loved the McCrearys swaying on top end.
@@ricardomendez4106 True! lol
FM40s , Full length headers , Xpipe or H , Under pullies , 373 GEAR , B or E 303 cam all great starter upgrades for someone new to the game
Never flowmasters ☠️
Had a 89' coupe with trick flows,crane 2040 cam, cobra intake,24lbs inj,and some 3:73 gears and ran a 12.36 @115 in the early 90's and was the king of the streets 😆 🤣 love your channel btw its nostalgic,makes me want to get back in the Fox game!
That is fast for the setup you had I bet it was light as a feather.
When it comes to sound ii like mines to have that deep tone and sound
Gotta stick either them Flowmasters 💯
I got rid of my smog pump. Got a set of under drive pulleys. My a/c doesn't work so i got a shorter belt. BBK cold air intake. 373 gears and a aluminum drive shaft. Such a huge difference.
Don’t forget to take out the air silencer.
We called them turds back in the day lol
Is the air silencer located in the fender well?
@@VidTubeWatch yes sir.
Wish I hadn't tossed mine. It will be worth thousands, soon! 😂
@@k5wxp22 probably 😂 I think I have a couple laying around somewhere.
Ditch the stock stamped rockers for some 1 6 roller rockers. Sometimes you can find a deal on some
Yep!
Don’t forget setting voltage on the TPS
1 volt at idle
Good advice Brew. A cold air intake done right can help. Like you said though, you gotta pull in cooler air not from the engine.
Stock filter flows just as good as any cold air intake. And being in the fender is good. Ditching the silencer is best air mod.
Not a Mustang, but I had a bone stock low milage 95 F150 XLT single cab roller 5.0 with AODE. I did a few mods all at once that cut the 1/4 mile time by almost two full seconds. Homemade CAI, True duel Dynomax Exhaust, Hypertech performance 91 octane chip, TCI Saturday Night Special Torque converter, 3.73 gears. So for $1700 (back in 2012) and two weeks of work. I totally transformed the personality of the truck... I eventually did a cam, headers, injectors and got a little more out of it, but nothing like that first round of mods
Cold air....I removed a fog light from my front bumper cover and used a flexible clothes dryer vent tube painted black, rigged it to the fog light opening and up to the air box. It's not "forced induction" so much as just direct cooler air.
as far as gears, you can go as high as 3.73 in the automatic cars to wake them up and keep them street-able. we also ran 180* stats to trick out the computer to run a little richer. Timing: Crank that shit up until you hear it ping, then back it off a little. Be sure to run 92+ octane though. Tire pressures on radials can help- but you have to just find the sweet spot on whatever tires you are running. This is all old school stuff though.
Why does a 180 stat make it richer? Oxygen sensors adjust the mixture. 🙄
Back in my day I ran MT dirt track tires on my 90 notch. Man did they hook up. Also if you can find a set of electric fans. That will help a tad too
Good Informative Video Man!!! My GT Is Bone Stock And I Will Be Looking Into Doing Some Of These Budget Friendly Mods Soon!!
Good stuff 3:73 gears for me
Summer of '98 I sold my super low-mile 87 coupe for $6500 and bought a 91 GT with a blown AOD for $1900. I spent the difference (plus more) to swap the GT to a tr-3550, heads, cam, intake, gears, suspension, and a shimmed 5115 dry kit spraying 175 on Hoosier quick time pros. MF'ING RACECAR 😂😂😂😂. It barely scraped into the 11's in that Texas heat. Couldn't tell me shit, I felt like John Force 😂
One thing that is well worth the money if you plan on banging gears and are getting traction is to reinforce the torque boxes. I put every bolt-on power adder and reinforcements like G-Load brace, strut tower brace, sub-frame connectors, except for a supercharger or turbo and ripped the torque boxes apart on my '86 GT and 91 LX.
Love the content brew2l.. I believe I've got all of them😁😁😁.
Thank ya sir! Those are bare bones must haves imo
@@BREW2LFOXBODY I agree.
On the subject of tires, if you live in an area with a lot of dirt track racers, like me, I used to buy used IMCA Hoosier G60 tires for 20 bucks a pair. And they worked very well with a lot of heat in them
good video! I need to make a video of My 65 Fastback and full walk around.
My 89 gt with just long tubes o/r h pipe, cai, cobra manifold, 65mm throttle body, maf sensor, and underdrives beats and puts up good races with a lot of newer cars still having the 2.73 gears and even did the same when it was just headers, exhaust, and cai
You should do gt40 heads from an explorer, cam, and 373 gears you talk about waking that car up. With a sticky tire you'll be taking newer cars out to the wood shed at red lights lol.
Awesome laid back chill video. 👍🐺
That retrofox is lookin pretty sweeet!!!
355s are the way to go with 5spd. 💯 correct. I built a 93 back in 2000. But I didn't change rear gears until I got new 347 with vic Jr heads & all that good stuff to track & car ran the same time & I was furious at 19yrs old. I didn't understand how much rear gears would help. Omg. I put a posi unit with 355s and I went from 9.20s to 8.0s
410 baby !!
I had those $72 eBay 3.73 gears in my shopping cart for the past week. I quickly clicked purchase now. 😅 I’d rather have used Oem gears and some new koyo bearings over most of the new stuff. Usually only need backlash adjustment.
Lmao! Sorry about that.
GT40 heads are a great upgrade
1 have an 84 gt all stock. What are good gears. And will it effect highway driving.
Badass video sir
Thanks bud!
On my 94 gt, after the timing bump and cold air intake. I did a catless X pipe to flow masters that dumped under the car. It really really woke that stock 302 up. The drone though was painful lol
I'm looking into what I want to do first with my foxbody, already converted to carb as I find it easier to work with, timing is up would suggest everyone to just buy a new balancer off the bat to be safe, thinking 4.10's + maybe the summit 303 cam, hope that's a decent little combo for now
A dual line mechanical secondary Holley 750, 3 bar heads not 4 and get a dual plane performer intake.and lastly some a set of headers whatever u can make fit wrap them also .make sure the vacum adavance is working on that distributor then tune everything . it ahould have a nice punch to it...
Remove front crash bar and move battery to the rear. Electric fans free up a lot of drag on engine as well.
all the mustang guys here in montreal canada they remove sway bar and add 4 cylinder coils in front and a 70 30 adjustable shock and the 60 ft is so much better ...
My 2 cents. An explorer GT40 will add good power after all those mods. I also sometimes run an underdrive crank pulley I found at Fun Ford in the 90's. This pulley is about the size of the alternator pulley in diameter with the bolts on the outside of the flange. Don't know where they sell those anymore but it will free up some serious power especially up top but doesn't keep the battery charged worth S*%&t. A nice set of equal length or long tube headers are worth some power too.
Awesome 👌 👏 👍 💯 🔥
Don't forget to ditch the airbox silencer and put a small air bag in the RR coil spring.
They were wildcards always, the awd dsm was the true king though
Frame connectors as simple as it sounds. Even on a mild car.
Smog eliminated, b cam, gears, frame ties, off road pipe, used 4 cylinder coils and front struts, ssm lift bars would clean house on the streets in the 90's.
Rear lower control arms and subframe connectors before drag radials.
That's what I did!
Used under drive pulleys I got my set super cheap!!
Only $600 for a set of drag radials Nakea. Man, have you guys ever got it good and cheap down there. I just bought a set of Mickey Thompson’s for the back of my car and they were pennies shy of 1150 installed and balanced. Anything that you guys do down there cost us literally twice the price to do the exact same thing up here. Americans have absolutely nothing to complain about 😂
While on the subject of that broomstick handle mod… the good ole smog delete is an easy one. Another cheap one to save some ponies is an electric fan in place of the engine driven fan.
How do the vacuum lines get capped?
i have always said the first mods should be gears then underdrive pulleys foxbodys become a hand full for everyone
Honestly man, I prefer these mild mods. I'd rather rid the motor out, clean, replace, strengthen up with beefed up parts. Ain't nothing better then a healthy running five0 with a mild cam, intake, timing bump and exhaust, smog and power bypass👍
Great pointers, don't forget about weight reduction. Ditch the spare and jack and anything else you don't need. I didn't need an interior, a stereo, heat and ac, power steering or carpet. Just 2 15 lb race buckets and that sweet V8 music annihilating my ears 😂 long tube headers. I run a short belt just for an alternator, zero parasitic losses, 2650 lbs total weight, 4.10s and a T5 and taking these farmers pick up trucks to full course at Gapplebees when the mood strikes
I'd enjoy having you help me rebuild my 89 mustang if oi had the money I'd pay you to restore the entire car
But ii gotta do it all myself in order to learn 💯
I went from 3:55 to 4:10's and I'll never go back. with my T5 Z-Spec..nothing beats the pull you get while in 3rd gear with 4.10's.
How is it having a z spec with 4:10 gears
@@laynemccormick7533 the only way to go, instead of a rebuild of a T5 I would just upgrade to a brand Z-Spec it can handle more horse over the stalk T5 and has a 2.95 1st geat ratio...for the Steeper gears and .63 in the 5th gear is great for cruising.
You forgot the cheap pulleys. 8 to 12 freed up horsepower and it works
When I owned a four eyed fox, I went for underdrive pulleys. I never noticed a difference. Did any of you notice a difference when you put the pulleys on your car? Just wondering.
Yeah, the car ran hotter and the AC didn't work as good!
I took the LS out and dropped a pushrod ford in and picked up 300hp
Free skinnies! A pair of donut rims, with decent 4 inch tires.
I run 4.10’s with my T5, don’t fear the gear.
I’ve got most of the list already. I need to get a set of drag radials for fun at the track. Although I didn’t intend on drag racing my car when I built it. But the 275/40 r17 GoodYear F1 tires are pointless for hooking up on the street.
I think I bought the hood on my coupe from you a couple of years ago. I got it and a Steeda shifter from you.
@@Shawn_42850 yes I think so too. How are you doing?
@@Shawn_42850 it was a new Steeda shifter and a flat SVO scooped hood correct?
I’m doing good. How have you been?
@@floydmarseeii4007 yes sir.
I have HCI and it’s a beast , runs in the 5s no 🧢 💨💨💨🔥🔥🔥
My car still has the old ford SVO 172 blue roller rockers! Are they supposed to be noisy or just wore out? Good replacement?
How about an intake plenum spacer and a larger throttle body ????
You guys had such a (ROBUST) aftermarket..... Thridgen F-Body twin guys were limited to specialized companies who was through the roof and half the performance..
A great example is exhaust.. Only (1) Company offered a mandrel bent header that flowed well enough and did okay. SLP
While you guys had 50 different header, h-pipe, etc companies, we had like (1-3) and stuck with 3" MAX sized single over axle pipe.
It just goes on and on like that.
Hell, we was stuck with a Australian made 9 Bolt 7.75" rear-end that you could only source parts from via (1) company!!! Ratech didn't even come out with a serious rebuild/breaing kit until mid/late 2000's!!!
I was so jealous at what you guys had for offerings compared to us.. Hell, i was the (1ST IN THE WORLD) to put 17x9 Cobra R 5 lug's on a Thirdgen T/A in 2001....
Just had to know what was the best bang for the buck back then... But you guys had more options than anyone...
I think a new F-body was about $5k more than a Mustang, as well.
The “10-Minute Tune Up” did wonders, if you know you know..
Evan Smith, Uncle Tony, and many of us were doing this in the late 80s.
This is essentially what this video is going over.
What length pushrod for sve heads from lmr 61cc,e303 cam trickflow1.6 rockers on stock bottom end 93 gt 5.0 ?
The only problem with those jones mufflers is that they’re not flowmaster….
What Cam was in the red GT?
Who built your shop ? I want one bad
Won't hold any snow, for sure.
Didn't Wooderson have a Chevelle? 😉
The mesh in the maf on my 95 had to go... lol
Electric fans in the electric window fuse
Tried to add comments on FB but there’s no comment available. Only likes
Every Fox body owner knows the first thing you do is gears and exhaust.
Cut weight- it cost nothing to remove rear seats and spare tire - sucks if ya get a flat but every little bit helps.
Too bad you can’t do a vid on deleting smog pump. That would be nice. Explorer 8.8 is 31 spline limited slip, usually already has 3:55.s. Will require a new set of axles.
modern sway bars have plenty vertical movement for weight transfer. They only prevent body roll.
I'm trying to figure that out now. I can remove everything but don't know how to cap the vacuum lines.
@@silkyjohnson510 I think I'm gonna fill the ports that bolt to the back of the block with alumiweld or job weld. Honestly I just carved little tree branches and plug vacuum lines til I can find right size bolts and hose clamps. It's off the car now. I think itll be easier than I thought.
I got just a alternator and water pump
I have a 85 mustang Gt an it lost power no light won’t crank nothing happens
nope ill never need to remove a sceen on my stock maf...cuase.....i put meself a freakin crown vic mas on it yes big hole for the goal~~~~!!!! i would never go back to the stock maf meter~~~~~ period (picket it up on ebay like 10 bucks..)
✊💪
Details?l on the crown vid may swap
@@ronsmith8844 MAF sensor interchange:
94-95 Mustang 5.0.
94-95 Mustang 3.8 V6 sensor I.D. # F2VF-12B579-AZA
94-95 Crown vic 4.6 sensor I.D.# F2VF-12B579-AZA
94-95 Town car 4.6 sesnor I.D.# F2VF-12B579-A2A
94-95 Grand Marquis 4.6 sensor I.D. # F2VF-12B579-A2A
@@JoesmusclecargarageAccording to Ford the big housing doesn't flow better, just looks bigger, cheaper to manufacture.
@@hotrodray6802 According to timeslips they do. A 70mm makes a significant difference over the stock Fox 55mm with even mild stuff like GT40s, cam, etc.
373 gear and a 150 shot of nitrous.
Bigger fuel pump and injectors
Stock will run 310 HP crank.
A carb lol
🤣✊
Can’t handle a basic, extremely tuneable EFI system huh?
@@Joesmusclecargarage 😂😂😂😂
at the first 1:00 ive asked many and even foxcast with no answer and never understood..i know you not a coyotee swap guy but why is it bad for hot air fender filter for a 5.0 pushrod but it seems to be a regular thang for coyotee swaps and new motors put it hot sitting right by motor and wtf...just sayin (scratch head)...
Why get hot air when cold is right there yk? It's just if you want to be real particular I think
I think it’s because of not having enough space to run a in the fender filter.. I’m honestly not sure 🤷
@@BREW2LFOXBODY 😎
Hot air is not good for the Coyote engine either. Cooler air is always better. Pretty sure the reason why we see that on just about every Coyote swapped Fox is due to space. Not having enough room because it is to sharp of a bend to get the air from the filter to the throttle body.
Why make a duct work to force cold air through the filter. Basic engineering and crafting.
Save all your penny’s put a 5.3 and make 100 hp just by swapping an ls in then build from there
No dude just no. For the price a 5.3 will cost you to swap in there you could drop a 351 in it and keep it Ford. A stock 5.3 isn't gonna be up 100 hp over a 5.0 ho. It would have to be putting down 300 to the tires to be up 100 hp. And no a cammed ls isn't a stock ls. If you wanna build an ls just get a gm vehicle it's not that hard. So sick of the beat to death ls bs in mustangs.
Remove some weight lol
Take weight out
Dum
i c this guy has no clue... CHEVYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY RULESSSSSSSSSSSSSS fords will they rust .... hahhahahah
Show your ass