I was deep in the Mustang craze in the 80's and 90's. I ran a speed shop and most of my customers were 5.0 guys. The cars did not have issues with bending the body until you were running deep into the 11's with slicks, by the time you got into the 10's with no subframe connectors, I had seen rear quarter panels buckle at the top, but for a street car with street tires, they are completely useless and just add weight. Same for the strut tower brace, unless you are into corner carving it is just dead weight. Back then the basics were under drive pulley set (can create overheating and low charge on cars that are only driven inside cities light to light, not recommended for Auto trans), gears: 3.73 were most popular, long tube headers with full exhaust (shorty headers were not much better than factory ones), MAF upgrade if you had an 86-88, and finally you needed to deal with what made power which was airflow into the engine: throttle body, bigger MAF sensor, intake manifold, heads. cam etc... A 65/70mm throttle body and spacer was probably the most popular addition in the intake, but unless you port matched it to the intake, it was not doing much... Cars were never really fast until you basically changed the whole upper part of the engine from the heads up and the cam...
As the owner of a 1991 5.0 LX convertible, I can categorically state that the addition of subframe connectors made a major improvement in handling on this stock Mustang.
@@rodrogers6895 you are correct but that is only because yours was a convertible. The coupes and hatchbacks had more structural rigidity. Now however, since everyone wants a 10 second fox body, they are necessary.
Auto's are not popular in 5.0's, but with a reprogrammed AOD and a set of 4:10 gears they will scoot. Lets you hold shift gear by gear and will not shift down in OD. Perfect all around gear for the tall OD, works good on the highway too.
typically with the 4,000 RPM launches, the torque boxes took the major hit before the rest of the unibody did. The upper end of the engine had to get replaced since it was designed with small ports and valves to build torque, though magazine writer Tony Defeo got Mustang to do 13.47's in the quarter with just tuning...a respectable number back then unless you raced in the big cities. Then you went nitrous or watched others do it from behind them. when the GT40 parts program hit, it was like 1956 when Chevy offered the PowerPack. Everyone wanted to know if you just went with the tubular intake or did you get the heads too or did you have the '303...with the GM guys, the question was which brand of PROM chip did you use...
Everything but the headers will help a little. Believe it or not the factory headers aren't a restriction on a stock or mild engine. I've heard some people say when they replaced the factory headers with a larger 1-5/8 aftermarket set that they lost some low end torque.
@@robertwest3093 my ‘86 (years ago) absolutely woke up completely when I did JBA shorty headers and Flowmaster mufflers. This was back in the early 90’s….. but this, and some increased ignition timing, kept me relevant on the streets! Obviously things have changed in todays tuning, but back in the day, fast was cheap and easy!
I ABSOLUTELY AGREE AND MY 87 MUSTANG GT HAS A OFF ROAD H AND A SET OF 2 CHAMBER FLOW MASTER MUFFLERS AND THE SAME WITH MY VIBRANT RED 93 COBRA LOL JUST EXHAUST AND MAYBE HEADERS.
Just bought my first fox, put on original 40s with off road H because i live that classic sound! But I Hate the 2000rpm drone in 4th gear.... terrible I'm considering changing it.
100% maryland here and we ran 1 chamber off road mufflers with offroad H. taking out the cats runs better and sounds way better , sounds like a muscle car witrhout them, not just the sound of 8 cylinders slushed together
Great advice, I've done everything you've mentioned. I bought my Mustang back in 1991 brand new. Strawberry red LX coupe 5 speed. It now has 55,000 original miles and I'm in the process of making it completely stock again. I will keep the subframe connectors and strut tower brace for now. Thanks for the info and I will be subscribing to you for future updates.
You are exactly spot on. I did the same steps in the same order. Except when changing out the diff to 3:55 I junked the pathetic AOD and put in a World Class T-5. That in itself was a whole new driving experience. Thanks for your post.
BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK IN THIS ORDER: Pull intake silencer, bump timing, high flow filter, under-drive pulleys, braided front brake lines, stiffer steering rack bushings, stiffer swaybar bushings, larger MAF body, caster-camber plates to max caster, and aluminum driveshaft. Anything else you do is a waste of money for tiny gains. Stock intake provides more torque than the Cobra intake so don't waste your money unless you're supercharging or changing to high flow heads. Stock headers are fine. Catbacks give you noise without any noticeable power gains and the drone becomes insane on the highway. Bigger throttle body does not provide noticeable power and will decrease low-end torque with stock heads. Also, don't install rear gears for $600 when you can buy a brand new Ford rearend with 3:55s, new bushings, new bearings and no gear noise for $800-$1000. With all that you're still slower than a new V6 Toyota Camry or Ecoboost Mustang around a track. The fox requires huge dollars to make it competitive by modern standards so focus on improving drivability (handling, braking, stable high speed cruising) and save your money for modifying a more modern and capable chassis like an S550.
My '88 GT isn't a California model so it has the Speed Density rather than the MAF introduced for all Mustangs in 1989. SD can limit the performance of many performance add-ons. I installed a Kenne-Bell cold air system that really pushes the air, and it works quite well with SD. You mentioned honing the intake manifold for increased flow/HP - for several years, there was a company called Extrude Hone, an innovative system for expanding and polishing the ports and runners on the intakes. Together with a good port matching job, this process could add 60+ horsepower and was invisible to anyone looking under the hood.👍
either super ford magazine or the mustangs magazine it merged with, did a dyno test and found an extrude-honed 5.0 HO intake manifold did as well as the GT40 tubular--for sometimes less money than a new intake. The Cobra did the same stock, but that of course could be extrude honed. Now we have the Explorer intakes in the junkyard but they need the throttle cable. the other trick was to straighten out the first runner in the lower intake manifold that snuck around the distributor. that requires someone who can cut, fab, and weld. But as you said, it didn't get noticed, and if you ported the E7s, you could really put that extra air flow to work.
@@bobyoung1698 car magazines used to be great, some had how-to articles and dyno tests to back them up, but others just showed you how to bolt on a new part that anyone who could follow instructions could figure out. Even those, however, taught you what was going on around the country. and now the majority of those magazines are gone, even Hot Rod is going to 4 issues a year. but every time i'm at a cruise night or swap meet, I pick up the old magazines that were known for their advice. a lot of that stuff doesn't exist on the internet, except for youtube channels like this. and now those aftermarket parts are cheap in an age of the LS engine.
I sure wish I knew about the subframe connectors a few decades ago! I loved my’89 LX Sport hatchback, and drove it (probably too) hard all over Arkansas and Louisiana. By 20k miles, there were multiple cracks in the unibody on both sides, which rather concerned this then-green mechanical engineer! Interesting video, thanks.
Well you forgot some things that 75 amp alternator needs to go, cooling fans, and starter reduces weight less stress and is little better but the alternator helps keeps the 12 volt supply goes from like 12.8 to 14.1. Big difference I seen with these mods on my mild built 87 t top gt. But far as everything else is golden very informative
i think after 1991, the factory had a smaller starter. and some use ford contour electric fans, but as you said, the electrical system needs to get upgraded.
People buying these 30-40+ year old Fox Bodies? Get your brakes & suspension up to snuff before anything. Aftermarket kmember with new control arms. New power steering rack with bump steer end links. Power steering pump and hoses. Fresh sway bar end link and bushings. Strut tower brace with room for any aftermarket intake or carb setup you might use later. I would go stock springs all around. Weld in Subframe connectors with seat brackets. New rear control arms with bushings. Rear shock tower brace. New struts shocks and ball joints all around. Rebuild the rear with whatever ratio, but make sure to replace axle bearings and seals as well. New brake calipers, pads, new brake fluid and master cylinder. New wheel hub/front rotors. Motor/trans mounts. It's important to do all these before anything else. Why? Because it's safer, it'll respond better to horsepower gains, modifications will install easier. For example. If your motor mounts are bad, installing aftermarket headers on the driver side will almost be impossible without denting the header. With a fresh motor mount, you shouldn't have to modify the header at all. One of many examples. Lowering springs are a bad idea. They don't hold up well over time. Stock springs work just fine.
Motorsport C springs were the ticket, I had them with a 351w up front, and it lowered it just enough, but it stayed rock solid in turns. Completely agree about the brakes, they were a horrible joke at best.
I had a 3.55 in my 1988 T-topped Mustang I bought from a Lincoln-Mercury Service Manager around 1990. Had most of the FMS catalog installed. When stock ones were selling for $10K+ at that time I got it for $7500 since he needed a little extra cash to buy a sail boat he wanted, had it on the side of road with a sign for cash only today.
THAT'S AWSOME MAN I LOVE MUSTANGS AND I CURRENTLY HAVE 7 MUSTANGS AND ONE OF MY FAVORITES IS MY FIRST MUSTANG GT I BOUGHT THAT I STILL OWN IS MY 87 MUSTANG GT WITH T TOPS.
Thanks from France for all this informations. I have already GT40 head cylinder from a Mercury mountaineer ready to instal so with the upper and lower intake.
@@hudsondonnell444 They say those guys with the 3.73's and 4.11's will beat you with your 3.27 to the Interstate on ramp and into the merge lane, but after about 1/2 a mile, all they will see is your tail lights getting smaller and smaller.
Nice cobra! Spot on with the subframe connectors, strut brace, gears, and removing the air silencer box. At stockish power levels I don't think you will see any hp gain with bigger throttle body or cold air. The air restriction is in the cylinder heads and mild camshaft. Same with the exhaust. Best thing you can do for the exhaust at stock power levels other than longtubes would be a catless midpipe but that's a smog issue. But if you've ever looked through a Ford cat from that era, that's a restriction. Not the stock shorties and catback. I also noticed a much bigger change in sound on my 5.0 when I went with a catless midpipe vs the catback. Advancing the timing is another really good one and will add some torque/hp, going from 10* base to 12-16* is worth some power as long as you are running premium fuel
Thanks for explaining all of this I knew most but few little things I didn’t think of thanks brotha keep sharing knowledge I love my fox miss my original first car 88lx but bought a 92 GT because I missed it so building this one how I want it now and I got more knowledge and class now that I’m a bit older should come out amazing over time thanks again
I found the video interesting. But my 93 5.0L 5 speed is a one owner car and does not get the abuse some others will get. But it was good to know the weak points of my car.
Great advice here, im suprised more guys dont take advantage of the strut brace, it makes a difference and its cheap. Flo masters is my muffler of choice on these but ill have to look for some borla vids
Mine has Flowmasters and sounds awesome! I don't have subframe connectors or strut braces, but the only mods are the flowmasters and a high flow air filter. Also have the highway gear (think it is 2.73). Mine came with a Ford Motorsports 3.73 gear in a box but I think that will only make me eat tires. It is tons of fun even with the 2.73. I don't even need overdrive, kind of wish it had a 4 speed instead of the OD manual.
lots of good info here, but as someone else mentioned a cai has ben shown to actually make less power in some setups. also a cobra, explorer, and gt-40 intake flow nearly identical.
@@thefoxdoctor1072 running cooler is a myth. Looks are a matter of opinion, although I agree it looks better. The tubular however is extremely limited on porting compared to explorer or cobra.
Awesome im almost there 'need subframe connectors 'but i spent so much on ppg 3 stage royal blue paint i dont beat it 'is a show queen ''but thanks keep it up 'will be watching
I use to do this back in the days and I miss it, now that I have a stock ssp I just kept it factory just did headers and cat back oh and I overhauled the block to a 306
I have a 88 Vert, I did 4 of the 5 you did, I never did the front struts stiff. Never thought of that. I put full exhaust with BBK headers, 3:55 gears, welded in sub frame connectors. My car is a cobra and put k&n air filter, no mass air as my car is a speed density one, it's red with white top and white leather interior. My plan is if I ever blow it up, do a Coyote swap
@Frank Bonazza III I have a speed density GT. It says "Cobra" on the wing and door plate. 🤷 I'm about to sell it in 2 weeks at auction as I bought a new Harley and the Mustang will just sit in the garage
It's surprising how many people overlook the cooling fan for power. A clutch fan can easily cost 15+ hp with the clutch disengaged, which is almost what you get from a gt40 intake, and installing an electric fan is a lot cheaper...
@@mikeshorsepowergarage7577 Yeah, it can be tricky to find the right one to replace a 30hp fan with the clutch engaged, but, it's REALLY worth doing! It will rev so much more freely around town too... You need at least a 2800cfm 16in electric fan for a 302. You can get away with a bit less with a performance aluminum radiator.
Check the slack in your timing chain. Usually 2*. New high quality set advanced 4*l -6* makes a world of difference. New chain might stretch/wear 2* and the stock cam likes the extra 4" advance.
Years later, people are reverting back to the box air intake like you have. There is evidence that they suck air just as good (if not better) than the CAI
@@showmethedammovie I'm going off of what Ive read out on message boards. There is no proof that the aftermarket Cold Air Intakes offer any performance gains. Ford made a Cold Air Intake from the factory. I just bought an original one to put back in my car. I haven't installed yet. 2 things to note. The air silencer that comes on the factory box, should be removed, since it does choke air. And...replace the box filter with a K&N, I've read they're much better filters. But if you're looking to buy an aftermarket Cold Air Intake, save your money for other important upgrades (exhaust, gears, subframes, cylinder heads, etc) that DO offer performance gains.
@@showmethedammovie I just watched a LMR video and they did a dyno on the factory Air Box, vs Aftermarket CAI. They gained horse power, but lost 1lb of Torque. Being my setup isn't even in the fenderwell, I bet I'd gain both HP and TQ by returning to the factory set up.
So much incorrect information about cold air intakes out there..if you look at before and after dyno graphs and know how to read them then the performance gains become more obvious
@@mikeshorsepowergarage7577 And yet stock they only made about 30 more HP than the GT (on paper). I raced against one with my stock 5.0 in the day and I can tell you the numbers are about right. Clearly there's a lot of room for more with better heads and cam.
The one thing you forgot is upgrading the brakes, before I'd get into upgrading the intake I'd do pulleys, MAF with matching 24lb injectors, ignition system, tune up, replace the radiator to 3core aluminum and install a electric fan.
Luckily on the 93 Cobras they came with slightly reduced pulleys, 24lb injectors and slightly larger MAF. I tried an electric fan once but the car overheated right away. Thanks for watching!
Home of Guns and HorsePower Was the fan installed properly? I’ve run a turbo 347 with one 18” fan on a single core rad for years and never had a single overheating issue..
J PP Having ACTUAL experience in something and being able to share those experiences with people is exactly why TH-cam and forums were invented bud..that being said, I’ve made 6 comments bud calm down 🤦♂️ and I didn’t “ridicule” anyone, I just simply provided correct information..What’s hilarious is you accuse me of being a “troll” yet you are scouring this feed looking for my name and literally trolling me on the 5th separate comment...talk about D-Bag 😂
1) Ditch the air intake silencer. (Save it. It will likely be worth something since MOST guys literally threw them in the trash.) 2) Re-set timing to 13 degrees. 3) Flowmaster cat-back/Underdrive Pulleys. 4) 3.73 rear gears 5) M&H Racemaster slicks. Welcome to the 12's! And you haven't spent $1000 in mods (In 80's dollars, that is.) And you have less than an afternoon of work in it. THIS is the combination that almost every guy did after buying a 5.0 Mustang back in the 80's.
Mike, where did you get the C&L intake pipe that clears the strut tower brace please ? I have a GT-40 intake and I want to install strut tower brace but it interferes with cold air intake tube.
I didn't mention it because I never had to do it. The 1993 COBRA came with 4 wheel disc brakes. It's definitely important to upgrade the brakes. Drum brakes just won't cut it when you add more power.
The only thing a 5 lug conversion can do over a 4 lug is add wheel options..converting to rear discs while maintaining 4 lugs will yield the same exact results minus the wheel options
You can't add power with exhaust bud. Also the best subframe connectors are the ones that cut through the floor pan. Why open the exhaust if your not opening the valves more? Cam swap is the way to go
Watching from Here in Australia i have the 302 windsor block and not sure if many components are different but it really is just a slug could be extra weight as its a sedan,auto, and got the 2,73gears wondering what power figures you guys are getting from these simple type of mods ,if I remember correctly a dead stock auto one made 170hp is that about right?
A stock 87-93 302 Mustang was rated @225HP. The mods I listed would add about 50HP to that. If it's a 302 out of a truck or sedan, they came with different cam shafts that don't make as much power
No real problems. With a convertible that old you're probably gonna have to change all the seals for the top and doors. However the car is as reliable as they come. Thanks for watching!
So, I’ve got a ‘92 LX 5.0 Feature car, and it’s got a super high 2.73:1 LSD. It’s stock, and has the AOD, but, I’d like to go up to maybe a 3.31, as it’s also a daily. Would you recommend that, or maybe lower?
Everybody wants to buy these cars stock, and the first thing they do is buy a chinese cold air intake and borlas from wish. Thank you for keeping this car real
@@Mattys91gt Mark the distributor position so you can always go back to your initial setting. Loosen the distributor and manually advance the timing. Tighten the distributor then test the car to feel any improvement in performance listen for any knocking or pinging as you’ll have to retard the timing to prevent pre ignition. Repeat until your satisfied with the performance.
It could be a number of things. If it starts but won't run, then I'm inclined to think it is ignition / timing related. Could be Coil, Control Module or even ECU. Good luck! Thanks for Watching!
First mods to my 94 cobra were chassis stiffening. Then suspension and drivetrain. This year i was goingnto start adding power as im tryjng to get into the high 9s as my end goal. (Very Low 13s on stock gears and stock power right now) unfortunately i got into a wreck a few weeks ago and going 40 mph my only dammage to the actualky chassis was the radiator support and im convinced that was because of the amount of chassis stiffening i have done to it. Unfortunately this has set back the power adding by a few months but the frame body are still straight as an arrow so its being rebuilt before continuing the goal
I want a base model 4 cylinder foxbody shell. Swap a AOC, 2Valve5.0, headers, 355 gears. Or do the same thing with a S10 but with 4.8LS, TH350 and a Ford 8.8" rear end w/lsd. Nothing to prove. Just something to make V8 noises and 2 wheel burnouts without completely eating my wallet.
That intake is actually better than the GT 40 with more material to open/port than the tubular. GT40 is better looking but that intake is good for more power than 420. I had my Cobra intake Extrude honed back in the 90's to keep stock look but allow for more flow.
True. Very rare to find a base model Mustang down here. Just about all of them came with options. I worked at a Ford dealership in the 1990's and they never received any base model cars. They didn't want to sell a car without options. All Foxbodys I've worked on came with 3:08's only Mustangs I've seen with 2:73's were one Automatic and cars that people ordered. Thanks for watching!
Nice video... Just got back into the fox body game.. I had a 85 that was clapped out Franken car thing now I have a 86LX Saleen clone that absolutely amazing.. Btw you can check out my 86LX Saleen clone on my TH-cam channel 😉
I'm very surprised at your 70 MPG RPM number... I swapped axles in my 81 Capri when I put the T5 behind my 351w interceptor engine... at 70 mph I had 2000 rpm with 308 gears and factory size 16 inch wheels (GT wheels from a 92, my cousin's... lol) Is your car an automatic? Biggest problem I had, and how I ended up with my cousin's 16 inch wheels from his 92, were the brakes. the 11 inch front rotor and 9 inch drums were only good for about 70 mph once.. and that's 70 to 0 or 140 to 70... that car was incapable of 140 - 0 in one stop. My cousin put the SVO brakes on his, because after we put the Whipple on his, it would outrun the brakes every day of the week. Had the MAC shorty 351 conversion headers, off road H pipe and 2.5 dynomax mufflers with the polished stainless LX style tailpipes, sounded great!
@kleetus92 Cobra came with what they called a World Class T5. It had slightly different gearing. Also 1993 Cobra came with 4 wheel disc brakes. Stock rotors would lock up in the front but after changing to drilled rotors that improved.
Thanks for the info . I purchased an '89 LX hatchback from original owner in 2009 w/zero modifications ($2500)needing only paint and tires.Even has the T5 but is quite slow.Definatly has 2series ring/pinion and 106.000 miles. Would doing these mods hurt the value over all ? I've put approx. 3,000 miles on it in 12yrs. But would like to keep it mostly original. Would a full exhaust (Fm) and 3.73 gears make a big difference? Ran it at Bradenton motorsports park in 2112 and avg. 14.90s/91mph. Thanks for any input.
Swapping out parts won't hurt value. Just hold on to the originals. Changing out the exhaust and switching to 3:73 gears will completely transform your 89 LX. Thanks for watching!
The original brochure from 1993 shows the 5.0L LX and GT have options available for rear gear ratios. I've built an 89 GT, a 92 LX and a 93 GT. All came with 3:08 gears. Has just been my experience. Thanks for watching!
@@mikeshorsepowergarage7577 Gotcha, so 2.73 was standard but you could get 3.08 as an upgraded option? I didn't know that. Everywhere I've read they all say 2.73 is stock.
@@paulolszewski5150 , as did my '89 LX. I have 3.73's now, and wish I had gone with 3.55's so I could do more "comfortable" highway driving. Sure is fun fron stoplight to stoplight, though!
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 88 | คู่เอก "ป้อมเพชร vs อัสลามจอน"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1ZqTVVbMgbo/mqdefault.jpg)
I was deep in the Mustang craze in the 80's and 90's. I ran a speed shop and most of my customers were 5.0 guys. The cars did not have issues with bending the body until you were running deep into the 11's with slicks, by the time you got into the 10's with no subframe connectors, I had seen rear quarter panels buckle at the top, but for a street car with street tires, they are completely useless and just add weight. Same for the strut tower brace, unless you are into corner carving it is just dead weight. Back then the basics were under drive pulley set (can create overheating and low charge on cars that are only driven inside cities light to light, not recommended for Auto trans), gears: 3.73 were most popular, long tube headers with full exhaust (shorty headers were not much better than factory ones), MAF upgrade if you had an 86-88, and finally you needed to deal with what made power which was airflow into the engine: throttle body, bigger MAF sensor, intake manifold, heads. cam etc... A 65/70mm throttle body and spacer was probably the most popular addition in the intake, but unless you port matched it to the intake, it was not doing much...
Cars were never really fast until you basically changed the whole upper part of the engine from the heads up and the cam...
As the owner of a 1991 5.0 LX convertible, I can categorically state that the addition of subframe connectors made a major improvement in handling on this stock Mustang.
@@rodrogers6895 you are correct but that is only because yours was a convertible. The coupes and hatchbacks had more structural rigidity. Now however, since everyone wants a 10 second fox body, they are necessary.
Auto's are not popular in 5.0's, but with a reprogrammed AOD and a set of 4:10 gears they will scoot. Lets you hold shift gear by gear and will not shift down in OD. Perfect all around gear for the tall OD, works good on the highway too.
typically with the 4,000 RPM launches, the torque boxes took the major hit before the rest of the unibody did. The upper end of the engine had to get replaced since it was designed with small ports and valves to build torque, though magazine writer Tony Defeo got Mustang to do 13.47's in the quarter with just tuning...a respectable number back then unless you raced in the big cities. Then you went nitrous or watched others do it from behind them.
when the GT40 parts program hit, it was like 1956 when Chevy offered the PowerPack. Everyone wanted to know if you just went with the tubular intake or did you get the heads too or did you have the '303...with the GM guys, the question was which brand of PROM chip did you use...
@@rodrogers6895 convertables and t top cars are the exception
Subframe, headers.hpipe,gears 373s bye pass smog pump. Flowmaster 40
what's the best way to bypass the smog pump? use a shorter belt or delete the entire smog pump
@@Mattys91gt delete the whole thing
@@muhtayyo1938 I definitely did lol I sold the car
Everything but the headers will help a little. Believe it or not the factory headers aren't a restriction on a stock or mild engine. I've heard some people say when they replaced the factory headers with a larger 1-5/8 aftermarket set that they lost some low end torque.
@@robertwest3093 my ‘86 (years ago) absolutely woke up completely when I did JBA shorty headers and Flowmaster mufflers. This was back in the early 90’s….. but this, and some increased ignition timing, kept me relevant on the streets! Obviously things have changed in todays tuning, but back in the day, fast was cheap and easy!
Flowmaster all day. The true classic East Coast 5.0 sound. That's what I ran with an off-road H-pipe.
I ABSOLUTELY AGREE AND MY 87 MUSTANG GT HAS A OFF ROAD H AND A SET OF 2 CHAMBER FLOW MASTER MUFFLERS AND THE SAME WITH MY VIBRANT RED 93 COBRA LOL JUST EXHAUST AND MAYBE HEADERS.
Just bought my first fox, put on original 40s with off road H because i live that classic sound! But I Hate the 2000rpm drone in 4th gear.... terrible I'm considering changing it.
100% maryland here and we ran 1 chamber off road mufflers with offroad H. taking out the cats runs better and sounds way better , sounds like a muscle car witrhout them, not just the sound of 8 cylinders slushed together
@@anthonylaudano9435 get some 1 chambers and you'll never regret it
Great advice, I've done everything you've mentioned. I bought my Mustang back in 1991 brand new. Strawberry red LX coupe 5 speed. It now has 55,000 original miles and I'm in the process of making it completely stock again. I will keep the subframe connectors and strut tower brace for now. Thanks for the info and I will be subscribing to you for future updates.
Why going back stock?
Ditch the intake baffle should be #1… doesn’t cost anything and you gain 5-7 horsepower. Sounds better when you open it up.
I thought that went without saying? 😁 Thanks for Watching!
You are exactly spot on. I did the same steps in the same order. Except when changing out the diff to 3:55 I junked the pathetic AOD and put in a World Class T-5. That in itself was a whole new driving experience. Thanks for your post.
Thanks for watching!
I'd love to put a 5 speed in but I have no clue what to do
I put Flowmaster mufflers on my 1988 GT back in the 90's and it sounded awesome!
Yeah, nothing Chevy or Dodge had sounded as good as a 5.0 Mustang with Flowmasters. One of the best sounding cars ever sold.
BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK IN THIS ORDER: Pull intake silencer, bump timing, high flow filter, under-drive pulleys, braided front brake lines, stiffer steering rack bushings, stiffer swaybar bushings, larger MAF body, caster-camber plates to max caster, and aluminum driveshaft. Anything else you do is a waste of money for tiny gains. Stock intake provides more torque than the Cobra intake so don't waste your money unless you're supercharging or changing to high flow heads. Stock headers are fine. Catbacks give you noise without any noticeable power gains and the drone becomes insane on the highway. Bigger throttle body does not provide noticeable power and will decrease low-end torque with stock heads. Also, don't install rear gears for $600 when you can buy a brand new Ford rearend with 3:55s, new bushings, new bearings and no gear noise for $800-$1000. With all that you're still slower than a new V6 Toyota Camry or Ecoboost Mustang around a track. The fox requires huge dollars to make it competitive by modern standards so focus on improving drivability (handling, braking, stable high speed cruising) and save your money for modifying a more modern and capable chassis like an S550.
My '88 GT isn't a California model so it has the Speed Density rather than the MAF introduced for all Mustangs in 1989. SD can limit the performance of many performance add-ons. I installed a Kenne-Bell cold air system that really pushes the air, and it works quite well with SD.
You mentioned honing the intake manifold for increased flow/HP - for several years, there was a company called Extrude Hone, an innovative system for expanding and polishing the ports and runners on the intakes. Together with a good port matching job, this process could add 60+ horsepower and was invisible to anyone looking under the hood.👍
either super ford magazine or the mustangs magazine it merged with, did a dyno test and found an extrude-honed 5.0 HO intake manifold did as well as the GT40 tubular--for sometimes less money than a new intake. The Cobra did the same stock, but that of course could be extrude honed. Now we have the Explorer intakes in the junkyard but they need the throttle cable.
the other trick was to straighten out the first runner in the lower intake manifold that snuck around the distributor. that requires someone who can cut, fab, and weld. But as you said, it didn't get noticed, and if you ported the E7s, you could really put that extra air flow to work.
@alertgasper Thanks for the support and the update. It's been a while, but I used to freakin' live in those magazines.😋
@@bobyoung1698 car magazines used to be great, some had how-to articles and dyno tests to back them up, but others just showed you how to bolt on a new part that anyone who could follow instructions could figure out. Even those, however, taught you what was going on around the country.
and now the majority of those magazines are gone, even Hot Rod is going to 4 issues a year. but every time i'm at a cruise night or swap meet, I pick up the old magazines that were known for their advice. a lot of that stuff doesn't exist on the internet, except for youtube channels like this. and now those aftermarket parts are cheap in an age of the LS engine.
I sure wish I knew about the subframe connectors a few decades ago! I loved my’89 LX Sport hatchback, and drove it (probably too) hard all over Arkansas and Louisiana. By 20k miles, there were multiple cracks in the unibody on both sides, which rather concerned this then-green mechanical engineer!
Interesting video, thanks.
a channel on youtube named 5.0tussin mentions using junkyard SN95 convertable subframe connectors.
dude ive had multiple of these cars with way more miles and ive never seen a stock car under 150k with cracks in the steel
@@marylandsteve5441 I hear you . I was pretty freaked out when I saw them .
Well you forgot some things that 75 amp alternator needs to go, cooling fans, and starter reduces weight less stress and is little better but the alternator helps keeps the 12 volt supply goes from like 12.8 to 14.1. Big difference I seen with these mods on my mild built 87 t top gt. But far as everything else is golden very informative
i think after 1991, the factory had a smaller starter. and some use ford contour electric fans, but as you said, the electrical system needs to get upgraded.
The best upgrades on any Fox including the Cobra would be a Head, Cam and Intake upgrade...
People buying these 30-40+ year old Fox Bodies? Get your brakes & suspension up to snuff before anything. Aftermarket kmember with new control arms. New power steering rack with bump steer end links. Power steering pump and hoses. Fresh sway bar end link and bushings. Strut tower brace with room for any aftermarket intake or carb setup you might use later. I would go stock springs all around. Weld in Subframe connectors with seat brackets. New rear control arms with bushings. Rear shock tower brace. New struts shocks and ball joints all around. Rebuild the rear with whatever ratio, but make sure to replace axle bearings and seals as well. New brake calipers, pads, new brake fluid and master cylinder. New wheel hub/front rotors. Motor/trans mounts. It's important to do all these before anything else. Why? Because it's safer, it'll respond better to horsepower gains, modifications will install easier. For example. If your motor mounts are bad, installing aftermarket headers on the driver side will almost be impossible without denting the header. With a fresh motor mount, you shouldn't have to modify the header at all. One of many examples. Lowering springs are a bad idea. They don't hold up well over time. Stock springs work just fine.
Motorsport C springs were the ticket, I had them with a 351w up front, and it lowered it just enough, but it stayed rock solid in turns.
Completely agree about the brakes, they were a horrible joke at best.
I had a 3.55 in my 1988 T-topped Mustang I bought from a Lincoln-Mercury Service Manager around 1990. Had most of the FMS catalog installed. When stock ones were selling for $10K+ at that time I got it for $7500 since he needed a little extra cash to buy a sail boat he wanted, had it on the side of road with a sign for cash only today.
Great find!
THAT'S AWSOME MAN I LOVE MUSTANGS AND I CURRENTLY HAVE 7 MUSTANGS AND ONE OF MY FAVORITES IS MY FIRST MUSTANG GT I BOUGHT THAT I STILL OWN IS MY 87 MUSTANG GT WITH T TOPS.
@@anthonylaudano9435 I edited a bit, it was a 1988.
Thought 87 was last yr for ttops
This stuff is right up my alley! Thank you.
Thanks from France for all this informations. I have already GT40 head cylinder from a Mercury mountaineer ready to instal so with the upper and lower intake.
3.27 gears are best for cruising on the Interstate at 85 mph. And also deliver decent gas mileage.
That is what I've got on my 93 SSP. The 91 5.0 LX hatch had 2.73 gears and my brother got clocked in Tennessee doing 150 in 4th gear in it.
@@hudsondonnell444 They say those guys with the 3.73's and 4.11's will beat you with your 3.27 to the Interstate on ramp and into the merge lane, but after about 1/2 a mile, all they will see is your tail lights getting smaller and smaller.
342
Turbo coupe gear.... or 331 out of newer 05 & newer
Don't care about gas mileage when driving g my 5.0 foxbody
Thanks that subframe thing is hilarious!! Wild West you nutcases!! From a Brit.. crazy dudes that’s why we love you
Nice cobra! Spot on with the subframe connectors, strut brace, gears, and removing the air silencer box. At stockish power levels I don't think you will see any hp gain with bigger throttle body or cold air. The air restriction is in the cylinder heads and mild camshaft. Same with the exhaust. Best thing you can do for the exhaust at stock power levels other than longtubes would be a catless midpipe but that's a smog issue. But if you've ever looked through a Ford cat from that era, that's a restriction. Not the stock shorties and catback. I also noticed a much bigger change in sound on my 5.0 when I went with a catless midpipe vs the catback. Advancing the timing is another really good one and will add some torque/hp, going from 10* base to 12-16* is worth some power as long as you are running premium fuel
Completely on point. Great job 👍
That was a really well put together summary
You should also mention the 2g to 3g alternator upgrade. The 2nd generation was prone to catch fire + only put out 65 amps
Interesting? I've never heard of it before. Thanks for Watching!
Thanks for explaining all of this I knew most but few little things I didn’t think of thanks brotha keep sharing knowledge I love my fox miss my original first car 88lx but bought a 92 GT because I missed it so building this one how I want it now and I got more knowledge and class now that I’m a bit older should come out amazing over time thanks again
Thanks for Watching!
I didn’t need the advice because mines way past this but I agree and definitely enjoyed your video.
I found the video interesting. But my 93 5.0L 5 speed is a one owner car and does not get the abuse some others will get. But it was good to know the weak points of my car.
Great advice here, im suprised more guys dont take advantage of the strut brace, it makes a difference and its cheap. Flo masters is my muffler of choice on these but ill have to look for some borla vids
Thanks for watching!
Strut braces get in the way of my blowzilla flowzilla Kenny Bell
Mine has Flowmasters and sounds awesome! I don't have subframe connectors or strut braces, but the only mods are the flowmasters and a high flow air filter. Also have the highway gear (think it is 2.73). Mine came with a Ford Motorsports 3.73 gear in a box but I think that will only make me eat tires. It is tons of fun even with the 2.73. I don't even need overdrive, kind of wish it had a 4 speed instead of the OD manual.
Thanks man good information just got me an 87 going to do just what you recommend
Buying an 89 lx vert with 373 gears and a vortech v3. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for Watching!
lots of good info here, but as someone else mentioned a cai has ben shown to actually make less power in some setups. also a cobra, explorer, and gt-40 intake flow nearly identical.
Yeah, I cut off the cats. They also make the engine run hotter.
The GT40 Tubular may flow near identical but it is lighter and it runs cooler then the Cobra and Explorer and also it looks a hell of allot nicer!
@@thefoxdoctor1072 running cooler is a myth. Looks are a matter of opinion, although I agree it looks better. The tubular however is extremely limited on porting compared to explorer or cobra.
At the beginning I felt like you were talking to me as if on the kitchen floor.
I hate to say it, but flowmasters snd the best on the foxbys! 👌😎
I have a full exhaust system with Flowmasters on my 87 notch, and get shit loads of compliments and its stock. Even my neighbors dig it.
hell no..
Thank you for this! I just got a '88 GT and I'm going yo use this video as a guide
Just got a 90 GT all original. Great video thanks
Thanks for Watching!
Awesome im almost there 'need subframe connectors 'but i spent so much on ppg 3 stage royal blue paint i dont beat it 'is a show queen ''but thanks keep it up 'will be watching
I use to do this back in the days and I miss it, now that I have a stock ssp I just kept it factory just did headers and cat back oh and I overhauled the block to a 306
Subframe connectors, torque arm/panhard bar, 4 wheel disc brakes, deeper gearing, as much tire as you can fit in the wheel wells.
Holley efi system is a must too
Rear tubular control arms are almost a must
Flowmaster ✌✌😉
I have a 88 Vert, I did 4 of the 5 you did, I never did the front struts stiff. Never thought of that. I put full exhaust with BBK headers, 3:55 gears, welded in sub frame connectors. My car is a cobra and put k&n air filter, no mass air as my car is a speed density one, it's red with white top and white leather interior. My plan is if I ever blow it up, do a Coyote swap
The strut tower brace really makes a difference with hard braking. Keeps the strut towers from flexing inward. Thanks for Watching !
@Frank Bonazza III I have a speed density GT. It says "Cobra" on the wing and door plate. 🤷 I'm about to sell it in 2 weeks at auction as I bought a new Harley and the Mustang will just sit in the garage
My own modification....park Mustang in garage for 6 months till spring if you live in Illinois.
P 35 high power mod is a must 👌!
in the 60's they had that brace called the Monte Carlo Bar.
That's right. Now that you mentioned it, I do remember that. Thanks for Watching!
Awesome. GREAT Information
There's an 07 Shelby GT350 an hour from me. White, under 5k miles, $30k. At a Ford dealer. Thirsty, can afford something in June.
flowmaster 2 chamber exhaust for the sound from the 90s
Great job and video brother !
Thanks for Watching!
It's surprising how many people overlook the cooling fan for power. A clutch fan can easily cost 15+ hp with the clutch disengaged, which is almost what you get from a gt40 intake, and installing an electric fan is a lot cheaper...
I had installed an electric fan years ago. A kit for the 5.0. The car would almost over heat every time I took it out.
@@mikeshorsepowergarage7577 Yeah, it can be tricky to find the right one to replace a 30hp fan with the clutch engaged, but, it's REALLY worth doing! It will rev so much more freely around town too...
You need at least a 2800cfm 16in electric fan for a 302. You can get away with a bit less with a performance aluminum radiator.
👍
1) Which performance mufflers might be the most quiet.
2) Stealth intakes by Bigdogs Porting !!👍👍
Check the slack in your timing chain. Usually 2*.
New high quality set advanced 4*l -6* makes a world of difference.
New chain might stretch/wear 2* and the stock cam likes the extra 4" advance.
Years later, people are reverting back to the box air intake like you have. There is evidence that they suck air just as good (if not better) than the CAI
Good to know.
Asking before I buy one. Is there proof?
@@showmethedammovie I'm going off of what Ive read out on message boards. There is no proof that the aftermarket Cold Air Intakes offer any performance gains. Ford made a Cold Air Intake from the factory. I just bought an original one to put back in my car. I haven't installed yet. 2 things to note. The air silencer that comes on the factory box, should be removed, since it does choke air. And...replace the box filter with a K&N, I've read they're much better filters.
But if you're looking to buy an aftermarket Cold Air Intake, save your money for other important upgrades (exhaust, gears, subframes, cylinder heads, etc) that DO offer performance gains.
@@showmethedammovie I just watched a LMR video and they did a dyno on the factory Air Box, vs Aftermarket CAI. They gained horse power, but lost 1lb of Torque. Being my setup isn't even in the fenderwell, I bet I'd gain both HP and TQ by returning to the factory set up.
So much incorrect information about cold air intakes out there..if you look at before and after dyno graphs and know how to read them then the performance gains become more obvious
Thank you for the info
Appreciate the video thanks
Great job I have a 89 gt
These are good bolt-on starter mods, but you really need to get into heads and cam to get any appreciable power out of these engines. I miss my '91.
That's true if it's regular 5.0L. The Cobra motor has GT40 heads and a cam very similar to the E303.
@@mikeshorsepowergarage7577 And yet stock they only made about 30 more HP than the GT (on paper). I raced against one with my stock 5.0 in the day and I can tell you the numbers are about right. Clearly there's a lot of room for more with better heads and cam.
Good lord terrible welds on those subs!!!! Boogies, boogies everywhere!! I’d re-weld.
Great review!
Thanks for Watching!
A blind man welded that.
All the mods I do on these cars in that exact order.
4:10 s make em rip.
2nd gear burnouts for days.
The one thing you forgot is upgrading the brakes, before I'd get into upgrading the intake I'd do pulleys, MAF with matching 24lb injectors, ignition system, tune up, replace the radiator to 3core aluminum and install a electric fan.
Luckily on the 93 Cobras they came with slightly reduced pulleys, 24lb injectors and slightly larger MAF. I tried an electric fan once but the car overheated right away. Thanks for watching!
Almost forgot, Cobras also had 4 wheel disc brakes.
Home of Guns and HorsePower Was the fan installed properly? I’ve run a turbo 347 with one 18” fan on a single core rad for years and never had a single overheating issue..
@@eriv4735 of course you have, you've ridiculed everyone on this feed, what a D-Bag
J PP Having ACTUAL experience in something and being able to share those experiences with people is exactly why TH-cam and forums were invented bud..that being said, I’ve made 6 comments bud calm down 🤦♂️ and I didn’t “ridicule” anyone, I just simply provided correct information..What’s hilarious is you accuse me of being a “troll” yet you are scouring this feed looking for my name and literally trolling me on the 5th separate comment...talk about D-Bag 😂
maybe have a professional welder install subframe connector.......
IKR..it would also help if he had the seat braces that come with the subs 🤦♂️😂
@@eriv4735 another captain Know-it-all 🙄
J PP Hey if common sense makes me a know-it-all then so be it 🤦♂️😂
@@eriv4735 at this point, you're just trying to be relevant 🙄
J PP At this point YOU are keeping me “relevant”..great job 🤦♂️
Where did u get the C&L air tube from the Mass Air Meter to the Throttle body? What size meter and throttle body do you have on this car?
I got the C&L tube from them directly over 25 years ago. Meter is 73mm and throttle body is 65mm. Thanks for Watching!
Good video bro
#6... Advance timing.
15*
What does advancing the time do
@@stevo6274 improved throttle response and more torque.
@@stevo6274 do it then come back and tell us what it does
Exhaust , gears , underdrive pulleys. In Canada we cut the cats out
Good video! $1200 to $1600 for gear swap here in San Diego, definitely not 600...
Guess I'm a bit out of touch. I paid around $350 to have mine done, over 20 years ago!
This is really great advice. What exhaust would have the deeper or lower note? I don’t want a raspy crack.
Flow Masters, Dyno Max or Magna Flow should give you a deeper sound.
1) Ditch the air intake silencer. (Save it. It will likely be worth something since MOST guys literally threw them in the trash.) 2) Re-set timing to 13 degrees. 3) Flowmaster cat-back/Underdrive Pulleys. 4) 3.73 rear gears 5) M&H Racemaster slicks. Welcome to the 12's! And you haven't spent $1000 in mods (In 80's dollars, that is.) And you have less than an afternoon of work in it.
THIS is the combination that almost every guy did after buying a 5.0 Mustang back in the 80's.
Mike, where did you get the C&L intake pipe that clears the strut tower brace please ? I have a GT-40 intake and I want to install strut tower brace but it interferes with cold air intake tube.
I ordered directly from C&L about 25 years ago.
@@mikeshorsepowergarage7577 TY
You forgot to mention the one most important upgrade which is the 5 lug 4 wheel disc brake kit from Ford performance!
I didn't mention it because I never had to do it. The 1993 COBRA came with 4 wheel disc brakes. It's definitely important to upgrade the brakes. Drum brakes just won't cut it when you add more power.
The only thing a 5 lug conversion can do over a 4 lug is add wheel options..converting to rear discs while maintaining 4 lugs will yield the same exact results minus the wheel options
I did 4.10 ,changed my highway rpms very little. 3.73 minimum you should do
I see egr delete. What do you use to mount throttle cable
stockers dont make enough hp for connectors, ( I like the brick e brake ) 6 tune it , tune it tune it
Flowmasters for the win all day I buy nothing but stainless steel Flowmasters
I don't like the drone they produce at lower RPM's. They do sound good at full Throttle. Thanks for Watching!
Good realistic video.
Thx!
You can't add power with exhaust bud.
Also the best subframe connectors are the ones that cut through the floor pan.
Why open the exhaust if your not opening the valves more? Cam swap is the way to go
Watching from Here in Australia i have the 302 windsor block and not sure if many components are different but it really is just a slug could be extra weight as its a sedan,auto, and got the 2,73gears wondering what power figures you guys are getting from these simple type of mods ,if I remember correctly a dead stock auto one made 170hp is that about right?
A stock 87-93 302 Mustang was rated @225HP. The mods I listed would add about 50HP to that. If it's a 302 out of a truck or sedan, they came with different cam shafts that don't make as much power
Ive heard the convertibles really twist
I’m interested in buying a 93 5.0 but the convertible what problems come with them?
No real problems. With a convertible that old you're probably gonna have to change all the seals for the top and doors. However the car is as reliable as they come. Thanks for watching!
Definitely need the subframe braces. I’ve had a few verts, they are flexy.
93 has cast pistons I think 🤔
What strut tower brace do you use?
It's a Ford Motorsport piece
So, I’ve got a ‘92 LX 5.0 Feature car, and it’s got a super high 2.73:1 LSD. It’s stock, and has the AOD, but, I’d like to go up to maybe a 3.31, as it’s also a daily. Would you recommend that, or maybe lower?
With the Automatic I'd go 3.27's if I wanted to keep the highway cruising Rpm's down otherwise 3.55's
Everybody wants to buy these cars stock, and the first thing they do is buy a chinese cold air intake and borlas from wish. Thank you for keeping this car real
Thanks for watching!
Another free mod is to advance the timing to 13 degrees
how can u do that with out a timing gun this is my first mustang
@@Mattys91gt Mark the distributor position so you can always go back to your initial setting. Loosen the distributor and manually advance the timing. Tighten the distributor then test the car to feel any improvement in performance listen for any knocking or pinging as you’ll have to retard the timing to prevent pre ignition. Repeat until your satisfied with the performance.
I have a 91 automatic 5.0 mustang that won't stay started.. any advised
It could be a number of things. If it starts but won't run, then I'm inclined to think it is ignition / timing related. Could be Coil, Control Module or even ECU. Good luck! Thanks for Watching!
First mods to my 94 cobra were chassis stiffening. Then suspension and drivetrain. This year i was goingnto start adding power as im tryjng to get into the high 9s as my end goal. (Very Low 13s on stock gears and stock power right now) unfortunately i got into a wreck a few weeks ago and going 40 mph my only dammage to the actualky chassis was the radiator support and im convinced that was because of the amount of chassis stiffening i have done to it. Unfortunately this has set back the power adding by a few months but the frame body are still straight as an arrow so its being rebuilt before continuing the goal
Sorry to hear about the set back. Bracing keeps these unibody cars from folding up. Hope the damage is minimal. Good luck with your quest for the 9's.
I want a base model 4 cylinder foxbody shell. Swap a AOC, 2Valve5.0, headers, 355 gears. Or do the same thing with a S10 but with 4.8LS, TH350 and a Ford 8.8" rear end w/lsd. Nothing to prove. Just something to make V8 noises and 2 wheel burnouts without completely eating my wallet.
That intake is actually better than the GT 40 with more material to open/port than the tubular. GT40 is better looking but that intake is good for more power than 420. I had my Cobra intake Extrude honed back in the 90's to keep stock look but allow for more flow.
I bought my 89 5.0 new and I had to check the option box for 3:08, I'm pretty sure is you didn't change anything the factory normal is 2:73.
True. Very rare to find a base model Mustang down here. Just about all of them came with options. I worked at a Ford dealership in the 1990's and they never received any base model cars. They didn't want to sell a car without options. All Foxbodys I've worked on came with 3:08's only Mustangs I've seen with 2:73's were one Automatic and cars that people ordered. Thanks for watching!
Mine came with 273s and regrettably I changed them to 373s...
.355 gears made a huge difference on my Mustang.
They really bring the car to life! Thanks for Watching!
Nice video... Just got back into the fox body game.. I had a 85 that was clapped out Franken car thing now I have a 86LX Saleen clone that absolutely amazing.. Btw you can check out my 86LX Saleen clone on my TH-cam channel 😉
hi what do you recommend changing gear ratio for an automatic ? 91 5.0L
3:73 or 4:10
Depends on how much you freeway drive.
I like 4:10 but I don’t do many long high speed drives.
3:73's would be my choice
@@b.s.adventures9421 what about for like digs/rolls on the highway/street? what’d be the better one not to long high speed drives
I'm very surprised at your 70 MPG RPM number... I swapped axles in my 81 Capri when I put the T5 behind my 351w interceptor engine... at 70 mph I had 2000 rpm with 308 gears and factory size 16 inch wheels (GT wheels from a 92, my cousin's... lol) Is your car an automatic?
Biggest problem I had, and how I ended up with my cousin's 16 inch wheels from his 92, were the brakes. the 11 inch front rotor and 9 inch drums were only good for about 70 mph once.. and that's 70 to 0 or 140 to 70... that car was incapable of 140 - 0 in one stop. My cousin put the SVO brakes on his, because after we put the Whipple on his, it would outrun the brakes every day of the week.
Had the MAC shorty 351 conversion headers, off road H pipe and 2.5 dynomax mufflers with the polished stainless LX style tailpipes, sounded great!
@kleetus92 Cobra came with what they called a World Class T5. It had slightly different gearing. Also 1993 Cobra came with 4 wheel disc brakes. Stock rotors would lock up in the front but after changing to drilled rotors that improved.
Dont Know Who did but he hasard to LEARN how to weld
Rear gears - manual 3.55 are good. Automatic 3.73 minimum.
1950 rpm at 70 mph?
mine does @1950 at 60 mph with stock size tires.
Your taller tires hurt your accelleration.
Thanks for the info . I purchased an '89 LX hatchback from original owner in 2009 w/zero modifications ($2500)needing only paint and tires.Even has the T5 but is quite slow.Definatly has 2series ring/pinion and 106.000 miles. Would doing these mods hurt the value over all ? I've put approx. 3,000 miles on it in 12yrs. But would like to keep it mostly original. Would a full exhaust (Fm) and 3.73 gears make a big difference? Ran it at Bradenton motorsports park in 2112 and avg. 14.90s/91mph. Thanks for any input.
Swapping out parts won't hurt value. Just hold on to the originals. Changing out the exhaust and switching to 3:73 gears will completely transform your 89 LX. Thanks for watching!
All of them came with a 2.73 not a 3.08. Only 82-85 came with a 3.08 gear. Also the 93 cobra mustangs came with a 3.08. but otherwise stock is 2.73.
The original brochure from 1993 shows the 5.0L LX and GT have options available for rear gear ratios. I've built an 89 GT, a 92 LX and a 93 GT. All came with 3:08 gears. Has just been my experience. Thanks for watching!
@@mikeshorsepowergarage7577 Gotcha, so 2.73 was standard but you could get 3.08 as an upgraded option? I didn't know that. Everywhere I've read they all say 2.73 is stock.
@@GreenToFeelBlue Yeah 3.08 was an option, my car came with them.
Yep my 91 lx came with 3:08
@@paulolszewski5150 , as did my '89 LX. I have 3.73's now, and wish I had gone with 3.55's so I could do more "comfortable" highway driving. Sure is fun fron stoplight to stoplight, though!
Cadillac converter?
Did I really say that? Hear so many people pronounce it wrong, now I'm doing subconsciously. LOL! Thanks for Watching!
@Home of Guns and HorsePower no problem. It happens. Many people still say it wrong just cause it's easier to say.
Hold up gt40 is cobra heads
The heads that came on the 93 Cobras are called GT40 heads. That's the model Designation which Ford gave them. Thanks for Watching!
Lol your driver fender will twist upward not the passenger side.