So I guess this is happening to my Compass, I have a 2011 Jeep Compass latitude. The other day the brake indicator light came on, and it went on and off. But then it was staying on so I'm gonna look into this, great video thanks for the help.
Thank you, thank you, thank you! I'm hoping like hell that that's what's wrong with my car. Changed the fluid sensor, and the light is still on. So hopefully this'll be the solution my mechanic discovers. tomorrow. But thanks for the video!
On my 2010 Jeep Patriot after I had my center console out for another issue, the brake light would come on randomly whenever I drove the Jeep. But after the right side headlamp stopped working, I went directly to a ground pigtail along the front edge of the engine on the pulleys side on the body. I found 4 (out of 9) wires that were so corroded, I knew at least 3 were probably not even making a ground contact. I removed the pigtail, snipped off the ends, then stripped the wires back another 3/4 inch, twisted them enough to fit into a new connector, then bolted it back up. So when I started the Jeep, not only did the headlamp work but the parking brake light issue was fixed as well. The Dodge Caliber is also on the list of Chrysler vehicles that are considered ''Ground Wire Nightmares''. Cheap wiring along w/some poor engineering has turned out to be the #1 reason why their products are the most expensive to own. I believe it's because of all the engineering that originates in Europe because that is why VW, Audi, MB (to name a few) are so expensive to own once they start getting some age and in most cases, in combination with high mileage. Jump over to Hyundai, Honda & Toyota and those vehicles will run circles around most other brands. Thanks for this video. It's always good to know how some issues can have more than 1 fix....
Yup, the grounding points on FCA products have been an issue for quite some time now. Clean them up, coat them with a protectant like battery terminal protector and you should be good to go
@@chrisfreemesser Have you had to go through the relay box because of corrosion on your vehicle.. I looked at mine which the previous owner had someone go through and wire one relay up direct. There were connectors that were unplugged so I fix that issue. After that I thought I'd check to see what fault codes were showing and 6 of the 8 faults were related to everything I had worked on prior. I cleared them off the Jeep and the one good thing is the ''Check Engine'' light is off. It's been showing a P0420 - o2 sensor issue and a cat issue for over a year. Turns out it was either a bad ground or something related to the one relay. That was one of the good things out of all this lol. Plus the remote start will work, now that the check engine light is off.....
@@montydaniels1054 If you're talking about that little relay box in front of the left front tire then yes, I've had corrosion issues in there. Ended up relocating one of the relays to outside the box due to socket corrosion.
@@chrisfreemesser Yes that's the one. A prime example of bad engineering design. It's like the one in the right rear corrodes. That's the one that I had to rewire because whomever did it the first time pulled one of the connectors off when they wrapped it up in clear plastic tape. I also took the TIPM off Friday, took every fuse out and disassembled the TIPM just to see if there was any visual issues with it. Cleaned each fuse contact and assembled it. The 4WD! light hasn't came on yet so perhaps that was a contact issue. Other that the Air Bag light on again, it runs good and shifts good. I'm still thinking of selling it while it is running right.
@@montydaniels1054 Probably not a bad idea, though at 10 years old it isn't worth much anymore. My Caliber still runs well but the NY winters have really taken their toll rust-wise despite my best attempts to stave it off. :(
So it's not the parking brake switch. Could be the brake fluid level/switch or the wiring for it. Check your brake fluid level first...could be that simple. If that's okay the switch is on the engine side of the brake fluid reservoir...if you unplug it's electrical connector and your brake light goes out, it's a bad switch.
Thank you so much!! Currently working on fixing my 07 Caliber and getting close to renewing my tags. Gonna pass my inspection now!!
So I guess this is happening to my Compass, I have a 2011 Jeep Compass latitude. The other day the brake indicator light came on, and it went on and off. But then it was staying on so I'm gonna look into this, great video thanks for the help.
Good tip. I would add a tin layer of dialectic grease on the contacts to prevent further corrosion on rebuild.
Seemed to fix my problem as well! Thanks a lot for a simple and well spoken precise video!
I'm having the same issue with our caliber.
Hopefully it's the same thing.
Thanks for the video.
Great video! To the point. No comercial interrption. Thanks.
I learned something new. Thanks I'm working on my 08 caliber and I had no brake light because ground came off.
Thank you, thank you, thank you! I'm hoping like hell that that's what's wrong with my car. Changed the fluid sensor, and the light is still on. So hopefully this'll be the solution my mechanic discovers. tomorrow. But thanks for the video!
Excellent video…!!! Good job…👌👌👌
On my 2010 Jeep Patriot after I had my center console out for another issue, the brake light would come on randomly whenever I drove the Jeep. But after the right side headlamp stopped working, I went directly to a ground pigtail along the front edge of the engine on the pulleys side on the body. I found 4 (out of 9) wires that were so corroded, I knew at least 3 were probably not even making a ground contact. I removed the pigtail, snipped off the ends, then stripped the wires back another 3/4 inch, twisted them enough to fit into a new connector, then bolted it back up. So when I started the Jeep, not only did the headlamp work but the parking brake light issue was fixed as well. The Dodge Caliber is also on the list of Chrysler vehicles that are considered ''Ground Wire Nightmares''. Cheap wiring along w/some poor engineering has turned out to be the #1 reason why their products are the most expensive to own. I believe it's because of all the engineering that originates in Europe because that is why VW, Audi, MB (to name a few) are so expensive to own once they start getting some age and in most cases, in combination with high mileage. Jump over to Hyundai, Honda & Toyota and those vehicles will run circles around most other brands. Thanks for this video. It's always good to know how some issues can have more than 1 fix....
Yup, the grounding points on FCA products have been an issue for quite some time now. Clean them up, coat them with a protectant like battery terminal protector and you should be good to go
@@chrisfreemesser Have you had to go through the relay box because of corrosion on your vehicle.. I looked at mine which the previous owner had someone go through and wire one relay up direct. There were connectors that were unplugged so I fix that issue. After that I thought I'd check to see what fault codes were showing and 6 of the 8 faults were related to everything I had worked on prior. I cleared them off the Jeep and the one good thing is the ''Check Engine'' light is off. It's been showing a P0420 - o2 sensor issue and a cat issue for over a year. Turns out it was either a bad ground or something related to the one relay. That was one of the good things out of all this lol. Plus the remote start will work, now that the check engine light is off.....
@@montydaniels1054 If you're talking about that little relay box in front of the left front tire then yes, I've had corrosion issues in there. Ended up relocating one of the relays to outside the box due to socket corrosion.
@@chrisfreemesser Yes that's the one. A prime example of bad engineering design. It's like the one in the right rear corrodes. That's the one that I had to rewire because whomever did it the first time pulled one of the connectors off when they wrapped it up in clear plastic tape. I also took the TIPM off Friday, took every fuse out and disassembled the TIPM just to see if there was any visual issues with it. Cleaned each fuse contact and assembled it. The 4WD! light hasn't came on yet so perhaps that was a contact issue. Other that the Air Bag light on again, it runs good and shifts good. I'm still thinking of selling it while it is running right.
@@montydaniels1054 Probably not a bad idea, though at 10 years old it isn't worth much anymore. My Caliber still runs well but the NY winters have really taken their toll rust-wise despite my best attempts to stave it off. :(
Awesome video. Thanks for saving me alot of headaches. Easy fix. Worked perfect
Nice Job Amigo🙂👌
Thank you now I can fix mine.
Thank You
I did exactly same as you but the light still on .when I put it on light starts flashing .when put it off the light keep on the dashboard
So it's not the parking brake switch. Could be the brake fluid level/switch or the wiring for it. Check your brake fluid level first...could be that simple. If that's okay the switch is on the engine side of the brake fluid reservoir...if you unplug it's electrical connector and your brake light goes out, it's a bad switch.