That's awesome! I've spent over $10k in just maintenance since I got the car two years ago. Safe to say mine was made on a bad day at the hoondai factory.
Basically, be rich. My goal for my Genesis Coupe 3.8 someday is to reach 450 to 500whp as a safe daily driver and to get away from all the kids and trucks who attempt to challenge me while I am cruising, so it probably wouldn't cost this much. Eventually, when miles get insanely high, I wonder if it would be good to have someone 2JZ swap it.
Most people tend to ls swap since it’s cheaper than a 2j swap. And 450 isn’t really reliable in a 3.8 unless you build the bottom end to handle nitrous / boost. The most you can get out of a 3.8 without boosting is fbo e85 75 shot and push a bit over 400 wheel.
@@JoeDeezy I don’t have personal experience with the BC kit for the 3.8s or have much intel other than most people usually go to MT Motorsports for both platforms to get custom kits made to spec. Look up Sxygen on Instagram. He has a custom stroker kit built by MT Motorsports. Just a great example of the work they do.
Stock rear end. I roll race. No need to mess with it much. If I had money to beef it up I would get a sedan rear end aluminum Ds and insane axles. I’ve snapped my oem axles twice on 50 rolls. 60 rolls not a problem. 5 bar map sensor is universal. Just need to know how to wire it to haltech or use the oem harness
Nice channel and nice genny brother👍 My goal is 450 Which turbo and which other parts would you recommend me I want the engine safe I’m currently running stage 2 turbo on E85 (bk2)
To daily? Not really. It was honestly a pain. I built this more as a weekend set up / night car. Racing only. It has no other purpose. If I wanted to make it a daily I would’ve done a few things differently and even then it would still be a pretty harsh daily.
Great video man. You stated that to make 500whp you don't need to do the head. The oem valve train can handle 500whp and get to 500whp? I always thought that head work and larger cams would be needed to get anything more than 400whp on the 2.0t?
Yes sir we’ve seen the oem valve train be perfectly fine for 500whp applications. In fact we just saw a built bottom end 2.0 with a 3076gtx make 530 wheel.
@@ProdigePerformance i guess fueling would needed to be upgraded instead of valve train. What about reliability with the stock valve train running that much whp?
@@fire_nyc5685 haven’t heard of anyone ruining their valve train in that power range. Just make sure you check your valve clearance in case they’re out of spec and definitely get a timing chain kit.
Hey man great video, to anyone who can answer I’m new to the gen community in getting a 2013 3point8. I wanna run boost but I’m not sure how to go about it and I’m not crazy mechanically inclined but more than willing to learn. When I get there would you guys recommend super or turbo charging, or even a twin turbo setup from a price to gain standpoint. Also the first thing I wanna do is an exhaust and from my research so far I’ve heard that the solo performance catback is the way to go, any suggestions? Thanks guys
You can run a turbo kit. SC kits aren’t reliable by any means. There’s been a few people getting the DTOZ kits and destroying theirs blocks at 7 psi in less than a couple of weeks. Recommendation before going SC is building the bottom end and getting sleeves or css. RP turbo kit is your best and cheapest option. I have multiple customers locally and across the states that have it at 6-10 psi going strong for 2 years already woth 0 issues other than higher maintenance of course. Twin turbo kit would have to be custom. Not very many people do it since the ecu tuning side gets very complicated on stock ecu thus stand alones being $5500 for the GDI 3.8 alone.
@@ProdigePerformance hey man thanks for getting back to me. I think I’ll definitely just run a single turbo set up I’ll have to take a look at more of your videos for more insights. Thanks for the response and the content
@@ProdigePerformance sounds good man please do I love the content. One more quick question. I’m gonna boost eventually I think I’m gonna run maybe either like 10-12 psi. Would a solo performance catback exhaust be adequate? Or is it a good option considering the future build
I have 2014 R Spec 2.0T just bought the car it Sri, cat back exhaust from what I can see. My question is at what point do you have to work on the fuel system?
380whp+ That’s when you start getting towards it’s limits. E85 and injectors can shoot you towards 400-450whp but making torque over 370~ is risky. These engines can’t handle torque very well until you start upgrading internals
Hi Brian, So IGSC 272 cams and new cam actuators. Everything is installed and every time I rotate the engine the normal turns to check the timing the ex. cam is 1degree off on the opening and 4 degrees off on close when ever you degree the cam and crank. With your cams what there anything special that you had to do to time them or something like that? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks ...Jon
There’s nothing specific needed to time these cams. These are exactky like installing oem cams or tomei cams. Once you rotate the engine the marks will not line up anymore What needs to be lined up is the crank line and the cam gear lines. The chain marks do not matter
Not really. I just don’t recommend any internally wastegate turbo if you’re going for a build like mine. It’s pointless. External wastegate set ups are the dominant set ups. If you want a internally wastegate bolt on turbo get a Arashi turbo or a stuffed turbo from 3Point8 performance.
Not really. All I did was roll race Had to grant shift since the trans would give me lock out passed 8500 rpm’s I learned to deal with it and replace my clutch rod with a adjustable one and helped out a bit But what I had set up for a local customer was a coolerowlr shifter and 14 trans with redline fluid and he did fine with 660 whp on the stock 14trans
Member the block came fully built already. Everything that was built in the block I reused besides worn stuff like ringlands buckets seals bearings etc. rods pistons crank main caps were all measured and made sure they were within spec for reuse which they were.
We’ve had people receive the stroked kit and the sizing on everything would be wrong. We’ve had people get 2.1 2.3 to 2.2 kits instead of the advertised 2.4 Crank would be imbalanced from BC Crank journals would have a offset. Just a badly designed kit. If you plan on going stroked we recommend messaging MT Motorsports and talking to Travis for a proper stroker kit build
The 2.0t engine is the same for bk1 and bk2. The only difference that separates the bk1 and bk2 engines is the bk2 engines have stronger Rods and a slightly different compression ratio that’s it. When building the 2.0 blocks that question becomes irrelevant because they’re the same blocks internals wise And no. This is a fully built block with a bigger turbo haltech fuel system upgraded clutch etc. if you watch the video everything done to this build in particular is listed
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
Great explanation! Can’t wait to go in depth into my 3.8T build like yours. This platform needs content and this stuff is good
Thanks boss!
you aint doing nothing! get back to the garage!
I like how your videos include more knowledge that’s not really covered in the groups and forums often. Keep going man.
We need more people like u! Amazing information
Great video one of the best ones posted yet very informative grateful that Jen coupe community
Thanks man!
That's awesome! I've spent over $10k in just maintenance since I got the car two years ago. Safe to say mine was made on a bad day at the hoondai factory.
I’m planning to get the silver one and I was not sure what to ask, at the machine shop. Big help thank you for the video
Glad it has helped you out boss
Great video and info and channel, subbed!
Thank you! I appreciate your comment
Definitely following this build❤️
About 4:00 in and I am hopeful based on the price
Am wondering if you can do this to the 2013 3.8 sedan do you think there would be much of a difference?
Basically, be rich. My goal for my Genesis Coupe 3.8 someday is to reach 450 to 500whp as a safe daily driver and to get away from all the kids and trucks who attempt to challenge me while I am cruising, so it probably wouldn't cost this much. Eventually, when miles get insanely high, I wonder if it would be good to have someone 2JZ swap it.
Most people tend to ls swap since it’s cheaper than a 2j swap. And 450 isn’t really reliable in a 3.8 unless you build the bottom end to handle nitrous / boost.
The most you can get out of a 3.8 without boosting is fbo e85 75 shot and push a bit over 400 wheel.
@@ProdigePerformance what about the Brian Crower stroker kit for the 3.8???
@@JoeDeezy I don’t have personal experience with the BC kit for the 3.8s or have much intel other than most people usually go to MT Motorsports for both platforms to get custom kits made to spec. Look up Sxygen on Instagram. He has a custom stroker kit built by MT Motorsports. Just a great example of the work they do.
Great informative video 👍
Thanks man! I’m actually talking about alphaspeed in my upcoming videos
@@ProdigePerformance sick dude! I’ll check it out 👌
Great Video, lot of help, Where you find 5 bar map sensor, who makes them? what kind rear end you have, Thanks
Stock rear end. I roll race. No need to mess with it much. If I had money to beef it up I would get a sedan rear end aluminum Ds and insane axles. I’ve snapped my oem axles twice on 50 rolls. 60 rolls not a problem.
5 bar map sensor is universal. Just need to know how to wire it to haltech or use the oem harness
There’s any difference G4KH and G4KF in term of short block.?
I want to rebuild my on a Kia Optima Sx 2014.
Nice channel and nice genny brother👍
My goal is 450
Which turbo and which other parts would you recommend me I want the engine safe
I’m currently running stage 2 turbo on E85 (bk2)
Let's just LS Swap
Crazy build bro. You think it’s possible To build something close to this and still be able to daily drive it well?
To daily? Not really. It was honestly a pain. I built this more as a weekend set up / night car. Racing only. It has no other purpose. If I wanted to make it a daily I would’ve done a few things differently and even then it would still be a pretty harsh daily.
@@ProdigePerformance oof, I gotta set my bar lower then. Thanks for the reply bro
@@paul1s1 if you need any help don’t be afraid to shoot me a message
@@ProdigePerformance thanks alot bro, I really appreciate that. I have some big plans for my lip 2.0t and I’ll definitely hit you up
Great video man. You stated that to make 500whp you don't need to do the head. The oem valve train can handle 500whp and get to 500whp?
I always thought that head work and larger cams would be needed to get anything more than 400whp on the 2.0t?
Yes sir we’ve seen the oem valve train be perfectly fine for 500whp applications. In fact we just saw a built bottom end 2.0 with a 3076gtx make 530 wheel.
@@ProdigePerformance i guess fueling would needed to be upgraded instead of valve train. What about reliability with the stock valve train running that much whp?
@@fire_nyc5685 haven’t heard of anyone ruining their valve train in that power range. Just make sure you check your valve clearance in case they’re out of spec and definitely get a timing chain kit.
Hey man great video, to anyone who can answer I’m new to the gen community in getting a 2013 3point8. I wanna run boost but I’m not sure how to go about it and I’m not crazy mechanically inclined but more than willing to learn. When I get there would you guys recommend super or turbo charging, or even a twin turbo setup from a price to gain standpoint. Also the first thing I wanna do is an exhaust and from my research so far I’ve heard that the solo performance catback is the way to go, any suggestions?
Thanks guys
You can run a turbo kit. SC kits aren’t reliable by any means. There’s been a few people getting the DTOZ kits and destroying theirs blocks at 7 psi in less than a couple of weeks. Recommendation before going SC is building the bottom end and getting sleeves or css.
RP turbo kit is your best and cheapest option. I have multiple customers locally and across the states that have it at 6-10 psi going strong for 2 years already woth 0 issues other than higher maintenance of course.
Twin turbo kit would have to be custom. Not very many people do it since the ecu tuning side gets very complicated on stock ecu thus stand alones being $5500 for the GDI 3.8 alone.
@@ProdigePerformance hey man thanks for getting back to me. I think I’ll definitely just run a single turbo set up I’ll have to take a look at more of your videos for more insights. Thanks for the response and the content
@@malikkerr4750 hopefully I’ll have more out this month. Finally getting a break from work to catch up on things.
@@ProdigePerformance sounds good man please do I love the content. One more quick question. I’m gonna boost eventually I think I’m gonna run maybe either like 10-12 psi. Would a solo performance catback exhaust be adequate? Or is it a good option considering the future build
I just want my stock power back.
No one in DFW will fix my boost leak.😓
Do a smoke test!
Potentially could be the turbo itself. The internal wastegate is known for taking a poop
My boost leak was from a bad gasket in the BPV, take the waste gate and bpv off and check their condition. Usually something small
If I am building only the bottom end and keeping the stock 86m bore should I get the arp main Stud fasteners or stay with stock ones?
ARP everything
I have 2014 R Spec 2.0T just bought the car it Sri, cat back exhaust from what I can see. My question is at what point do you have to work on the fuel system?
380whp+
That’s when you start getting towards it’s limits. E85 and injectors can shoot you towards 400-450whp but making torque over 370~ is risky. These engines can’t handle torque very well until you start upgrading internals
Hi Brian, So IGSC 272 cams and new cam actuators. Everything is installed and every time I rotate the engine the normal turns to check the timing the ex. cam is 1degree off on the opening and 4 degrees off on close when ever you degree the cam and crank. With your cams what there anything special that you had to do to time them or something like that? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks ...Jon
There’s nothing specific needed to time these cams. These are exactky like installing oem cams or tomei cams.
Once you rotate the engine the marks will not line up anymore
What needs to be lined up is the crank line and the cam gear lines. The chain marks do not matter
@@ProdigePerformance ok. Thank you brotha
What would be the difference if you wanted to do this with an AT 2.0
Big difference. You basically can’t since autos are limited to stock ecu at the moment. No aftermarket ecu is available for autos at this time
@@ProdigePerformancelink ecu works with autos would that allow me to push level of hp near your setup ?
Hey bro,can you send me a link of the oil sandwich plate that you use, i have a 2011 genesis 2.0T
www.khartunerz.com/Oil-Filter-Sandwich-Plate-Adapter_p_1863.html
is there a problem with atp bolt on garrett turbos?
Not really. I just don’t recommend any internally wastegate turbo if you’re going for a build like mine. It’s pointless.
External wastegate set ups are the dominant set ups.
If you want a internally wastegate bolt on turbo get a Arashi turbo or a stuffed turbo from 3Point8 performance.
Did you run into any issues with the transmission? If so what’d you do for it?
Not really. All I did was roll race
Had to grant shift since the trans would give me lock out passed 8500 rpm’s
I learned to deal with it and replace my clutch rod with a adjustable one and helped out a bit
But what I had set up for a local customer was a coolerowlr shifter and 14 trans with redline fluid and he did fine with 660 whp on the stock 14trans
@@ProdigePerformance thank you for the insight bro it’s much appreciated
Didn’t you replace the con rods with K1 rods and if so why?
Member the block came fully built already. Everything that was built in the block I reused besides worn stuff like ringlands buckets seals bearings etc.
rods pistons crank main caps were all measured and made sure they were within spec for reuse which they were.
Could you clarify the problem with the stroker kit?
We’ve had people receive the stroked kit and the sizing on everything would be wrong. We’ve had people get 2.1 2.3 to 2.2 kits instead of the advertised 2.4
Crank would be imbalanced from BC
Crank journals would have a offset.
Just a badly designed kit.
If you plan on going stroked we recommend messaging MT Motorsports and talking to Travis for a proper stroker kit build
Mhmm nice!
is this for bk1 or bk2? and also im a bit confused, so with a built engine and e85 and stuff, you can make 700whp?
The 2.0t engine is the same for bk1 and bk2. The only difference that separates the bk1 and bk2 engines is the bk2 engines have stronger Rods and a slightly different compression ratio that’s it.
When building the 2.0 blocks that question becomes irrelevant because they’re the same blocks internals wise
And no. This is a fully built block with a bigger turbo haltech fuel system upgraded clutch etc. if you watch the video everything done to this build in particular is listed
@@ProdigePerformance ok man thanks for clarifying! love ur vids as always!!
@@g-tham anytime. Lmk if you have any more questions
What size were the bc valves?
Oversized bc valves
So are you on stock trans?
Yep
do you suggest isr (isis) products?
Definitely
Isr race exhaust is great
I want a turbo but it sounds fart canned
Sounds slow
It is