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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 มี.ค. 2019
- Don't want to buy or hire the valve spring tool?
Want to know to replace your valve springs, do it this weekend and get a really sore back doing it?
You've come to the right place.
The camshaft gear bolts are tensioned to 20nm + 40deg
Happy boosting :-)
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Nice tip with the tensioner.
Great vid. I have a ba that smokes badly for 3 minutes only on very cold mornings....valve stem seals stuffed, so I better get motivated and change them.
Nice video Atomic Performance Products makes a Valve Spring Removal Tool you may be interested in looking at
Thanks! Yeah the Atomic tool works great, I just wanted to do more of a DIY video using basic tools
do you need to use 100 psi to hold the valve up?
I used 100psi+ and you need to use a compressor with some flow, as sometimes due to blowby or a valve not sealing properly it can chew up the air. I've had the valves held with as little as 50psi though when using a smaller compressor.
Hey mate I get this is an old vid, but after doing one of my exhaust valve springs the valve stays open a tad any ideas😅😅
Its likely a sticky lifter. After many ks they wear internally, Ive had the same issue, easiest just to replace the lifter that's giving you grief. Have you had the engine running yet?
@@10GTE nah I havnt yet, I havnt even been able to finish the valve springs the cylinder 1, on the first valve I did let's a slight amount of air pass through to exhaust
Why do you need compressed air , can't you just use TDC on each cylinder to the valves up?
Yea you could do that. Barras are an interference engine so having a cylinder at TDC would 100% stop a valve from dropping while changing springs.
So Top dead centre instead of BDC you won’t need air?
@@jamiehowell7371 If your air supply fails or can't support your valves it will be a head off job and a new head gasket to get them back out of your cylinder , at that point you may as well install arp head stud's while you are at it.
how much psi can u safely run now?
The springs I have used are good for 24psi.
Does the chain not come off the crank sprocket when you drop it down?
No, it stays wrapped
why dont you drill another hole in your tool that lines up with next cam bolt hole to hold it in place and free up your other hand
Great idea, I was just using what I had on hand, But if you were making your own from a piece of flat bar or angle iron etc, tweeks could be made to make the job easier.
There is a barra specific tool for this, that makes the job easier, but its a bit expensive for what it is. best bet is to borrow one, i bought one and have only used it twice so its not overly cost effective.
I’ll do mine with rope. Air compressor may fail
You can't live in fear bro. Air comp is much quicker and easier than feeding rope down a long spark plug tube, plus the valve stem seals hold the valve from dropping.
If u need to change valve spring why wouldn't u just do the oil pump gears and head studs at the same time because they would be at there limit as well
As these motors age more, the springs get very tired and even with low boost levels the valves aren't seating with the correct amount of time and pressure, the reason they need to seat properly is for efficient combustion making more power with less boost and timing and more importantly to avoid suffering a burnt valve as the valve uses seat time to transfer heat and cool. This was built to run a max 15psi and make around 400 odd rwhp, which these motors have proven without lifting the head, so studs are unnecessary. As for the pump, 3yrs of limiter in a drift car and it still hasn't failed so at this stage and for my build, it simply isn't worth the labour and expense.
@@10GTE well said
Way easier to remove the head bro
Thanks for the comment, however your statement couldn't be further from the truth.