Hey mate I’m doing a turbo conversion on my territory as well, Does the territory sump still have the same cast for the oil pickup? I noticed the motor mounts are a little different as well looks like there will be some clearance issues with the factory turbo ba manifold? Cheers 🤙🏼
I like that more of these are popping up. Loads of people talk shit about NA + t, but they're way more reliable than people seem to think. I also chimed in on a few of the comments, I hope that's alright.
Great video. May want to think about replacing that rubber hose your using for the turbo oil return line to an OEM corrugated metal flex line due to the amount of turbo heat generated into that rubber hose.
From what I've seen most people drill and tap while the sump is still on the engine in the car. They leave the oil in the sump then they drill (carefully) then tap the bolt holes then drain the sump (any little shavings that made it into the sump should come out with the oil)
Yep and all relative to the amount of boost, octane and timing. Mines very happy with 7-8psi and 98 octane, but the timing is also retarded accordingly. That’s why an experienced tuner is super important.
Hi please help I have a barra turbo which was damaged on the bottom end in an accident. Can I swop the top to a NA barra which is cheap in South Africa and available. What would I need to do on the NA BARRA
Mate, as far as I know, everything is interchangeable, but if your swapping your pistons too, ideally you’ll need to use the turbo rods also. Not only for the extra strength if they are late enough to be the typhoon rods but there is differences in the gudgeons so I believe
Hey mate quick question, I just received my cross over pipe and missing a few bits still but the pipe that comes from top of the intercooler into the silver pipe under the headlight has a sensor mine doesn’t? Did you hook your sensor up or block it off
I'm assuming you're talking Barra? That's a new one! It's been done a million times.. they are wrong.. Find a tuner who knows what they're doing and you'll have no dramas 🍻
5 months down the track and it’s still my daily and it’s all good mate. Seriously, it’s all in the tune. Remember, the early turbos use the same rods, just lower comp pistons. If you’re not winding up the boost and timing, and feeding it quality fuel at the correct quantities, it’ll be fine. It’s very happy at 250kw, But wanna push more out of it reliably, you’ll need to upgrade a lot more than just rods. Thanks to watching 🍻
@@oldskoolonly Oi mate, love your 5 vids on this. I’ve collected almost all parts but the Garrett Gt3582R. My question is- your talking 250-270 rwkw’s not fly wheel kw’s yeah?
I can give some insight on that. My mate ran his NA convert for around 18 months, 321rwkw on 13psi, all stock except valve springs. I then got it from him, threw it around A LOT, and maybe another 6 months down the track I put one through the block. That being said, I was absolutely hammering it, and had been since owning it. I imagine that's around the peak of it's potential without internal work. Back it off to 10psi, or maybe 12, I don't see an issue. Anything more than that, get some advice on upgrades. I'd suggest just not doing anything extreme, like loading it up unnecessarily
Nice guide, just a question - for the feed T piece, oil temp sender, -4AN etc. what thread sealant did you use? would teflon tape be suitable for the pressure oil feed?
@@oldskoolonly Thanks for the help, any chance ya rember the part numbers for the brass T and adapter you used? gotta be cheaper than going full aeroflow 😂
@@oldskoolonly Thanks, i had a look around, is the block thread NPT or BSP? could only really find BSP t pieces but the -4 adapter you used was NPT thread
Mate she’s stock. I do have forgies but they’ll be going in another engine when I get around to it. Good luck with the build, you’ll have a blast. Thanks for the support, cheers 🍻 P
Yes I did, but if you’re careful, and have a very sharp bit, you can do it without any issues. Best way is to pack the bit with grease. Also, it’s a horizontal hole, dramatically reduces the chances of stuff falling in, and the bit by design pushes the swarf back. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching 🍻
@@oldskoolonly Thanks for the informative videos. In regards to the drilling the sump, can you remember the size of the drill bit? Do you also have to tap the two other screws each side? and lastly is that a proprietary hose that you connect to the sump? Thanks in advance. Cheers
I gotta get my hands on one of the Barra jewels but I need to get extraordinarily lucky and find one on the cheap (ya impossible in the ole USA). I wanna stick one in a fox body mustang 1987-93 or one of the so called 4 eyed fox mustangs from the earlier 80’s. Then see how fast a stock style motor/turbo setup will go in 1/8th mile or 1/4 mile drag racing and then go up in hp from that. I figure it’s gonna make an upgraded ford 5.0 302 look bad for sure even in stock-ish settings. That Barra block and head are truly an engineering wonder it seems. Stupid they didn’t put it in a few American cars I mean it’s FORD for Fords sake. Silly. Cool videos thanks from America the Barra-less land. 🤬😭
Also of people are critical because they bought a factory turbo at $, nothing wrong if that's what you want, but it's personal choice. Or, those people that have alot to say but don't have the ability. If you're honest, all good, if you're just being a jealous dickhead, yeah well, unfortunately the forums are full of them, all knowledge, no practical experience. Many people like building their own cars, researching and what goes with it. Think it used to be called hodrodding.
Yeah I did a Territory NA to Turbo with all factory bits and there were no probs other than the O2 sensors reading thru the high flow cat.
good to know also
Hey mate I’m doing a turbo conversion on my territory as well, Does the territory sump still have the same cast for the oil pickup? I noticed the motor mounts are a little different as well looks like there will be some clearance issues with the factory turbo ba manifold? Cheers 🤙🏼
This is great! I’m just about to commence my BF XR6 na to turbo conversion myself, I’m sure this will help alot
L E M O N awesome! Happy to help out if you have any questions. 👍🏻
Old Skool Only Garage thanks, honestly your video series was like a gift from god because it answered a lot of questions I had
I like that more of these are popping up. Loads of people talk shit about NA + t, but they're way more reliable than people seem to think. I also chimed in on a few of the comments, I hope that's alright.
Mate, my thing is still going strong and un touched 20 months on as my daily👌🏻 Super reliable if done properly 🍻
So your getting the water from your radiator lines to cool the turbo. I am slowly learning. Great video mate 👍🏻
Great video. May want to think about replacing that rubber hose your using for the turbo oil return line to an OEM corrugated metal flex line due to the amount of turbo heat generated into that rubber hose.
Can u show us how you drilled out the oil return line
Didn’t film it but it’s pretty straight forward, just need to go slow
How did you do the sump mate how does metal now end up inside engine or did you remove sump what exact tool did you use sorry for so many questions
From what I've seen most people drill and tap while the sump is still on the engine in the car. They leave the oil in the sump then they drill (carefully) then tap the bolt holes then drain the sump (any little shavings that made it into the sump should come out with the oil)
we're of the same era, was wondering about comp though 10.3 by memory . ive only worked on TD's the big yellow stuff.
Yep and all relative to the amount of boost, octane and timing. Mines very happy with 7-8psi and 98 octane, but the timing is also retarded accordingly. That’s why an experienced tuner is super important.
10.3 is lpg motor
Great clip ! Thanks for your efforts in making it
Cheers man. Thanks for watching 🍻
@@oldskoolonly Keep up the great work!
Thanks for all your efforts with the turbo conversion ... It's motivated me to do an lpg fg turbo conversion . Cheers 👍👍👍
No worries, glad you’re inspired 🤟🏻
@@oldskoolonly why are there no new videos man :(
Great video! Quick question, is the hole for the oil return only drilled out and the bracket bolted in, or is there tapping involved? thanks
Drilled and tapped
@@oldskoolonly is the tap for the main centre hole or just for the 2 bolts that bolt the bracket to the sump?
Just for the two bolts
@@oldskoolonly great thanks for that
Was tapping the return line hard? What size did you use to tap?
Hey man it was easy and had plenty of room. It’s almost a year since I did it by I think they were just m8 bolts that came in the kit
@@oldskoolonly Do u reckon the conversion is much different of a job to do on an fg ?
Never done one but I can’t see it being much different
Gday mate, where abouts did you get your brass fittings for the oil line?
eBay. It’s all here th-cam.com/video/2cjEcqXCokE/w-d-xo.html
glad to see ya back man, hope all is well!! ✌🍺
I see the future regarding your intercooler, you do go with a after market China product mmmm $160 and your happy 😊
Hi please help
I have a barra turbo which was damaged on the bottom end in an accident.
Can I swop the top to a NA barra which is cheap in South Africa and available.
What would I need to do on the NA BARRA
Mate, as far as I know, everything is interchangeable, but if your swapping your pistons too, ideally you’ll need to use the turbo rods also. Not only for the extra strength if they are late enough to be the typhoon rods but there is differences in the gudgeons so I believe
NA barra will do the job. For a touch more boost, valve springs. Nothing else really.
Hey mate, what size was the hole for the oil return drilled into the sump? And the bolt hole sizes for mounting it?
Hey mate I think the main hole was about 12mm and the threaded holes were m8 from memory
Hey mate quick question, I just received my cross over pipe and missing a few bits still but the pipe that comes from top of the intercooler into the silver pipe under the headlight has a sensor mine doesn’t? Did you hook your sensor up or block it off
Can see the pipe I’m talking about at 5:18
Just blocked it off
Looking forward to this
Hey mate, do you still run the 02 sensor out of the factory NA exhaust manifold? If so where do you run it?
Mate I’m running the factory turbo manifold with the stock sensor in the stock location
What adapter did you use for the sump that’s the only thing I’m stuck on for the conversion
It came in my oil line kit, detailed in the other vids. Good luck with the conversation!! Merry Christmas, thanks for watching. 🎄
I wanna do this to my na people are saying I can't with my ecu cause no knock sensor? What did you do mate? Thanks.
I'm assuming you're talking Barra? That's a new one! It's been done a million times.. they are wrong.. Find a tuner who knows what they're doing and you'll have no dramas 🍻
Recommend a good tuner in Nsw mate
I use Euro Prestige at Magraths Hill 👌🏻
Perfect mate!
How did you go with stock conrods? They haven’t given up yet?
5 months down the track and it’s still my daily and it’s all good mate. Seriously, it’s all in the tune. Remember, the early turbos use the same rods, just lower comp pistons. If you’re not winding up the boost and timing, and feeding it quality fuel at the correct quantities, it’ll be fine. It’s very happy at 250kw, But wanna push more out of it reliably, you’ll need to upgrade a lot more than just rods. Thanks to watching 🍻
@@oldskoolonly Oi mate, love your 5 vids on this. I’ve collected almost all parts but the Garrett Gt3582R.
My question is- your talking 250-270 rwkw’s not fly wheel kw’s yeah?
Cheers man, yep at the wheels
I can give some insight on that. My mate ran his NA convert for around 18 months, 321rwkw on 13psi, all stock except valve springs. I then got it from him, threw it around A LOT, and maybe another 6 months down the track I put one through the block. That being said, I was absolutely hammering it, and had been since owning it. I imagine that's around the peak of it's potential without internal work. Back it off to 10psi, or maybe 12, I don't see an issue. Anything more than that, get some advice on upgrades. I'd suggest just not doing anything extreme, like loading it up unnecessarily
Boost pressures sensor needed at all mate when doing this conversation?
Just the 4 bar map sensor in place of the 2 bar NA one 👍🏻
@@oldskoolonly awesome I'm just doing what you have atm
Cool! Good luck with it 🍻
What did you do for the water return?
Watch the series man, it’s all there 👌🏻
Nice guide, just a question - for the feed T piece, oil temp sender, -4AN etc. what thread sealant did you use? would teflon tape be suitable for the pressure oil feed?
Cheers. I used some Worth brand thread sealant but thread tape is fine. Thanks for watching hey 👍🏻
@@oldskoolonly Thanks for the help, any chance ya rember the part numbers for the brass T and adapter you used? gotta be cheaper than going full aeroflow 😂
Mate I just bought them off eBay. 3/8 female T piece and a 3/8 double ended male adapter
@@oldskoolonly Thanks, i had a look around, is the block thread NPT or BSP? could only really find BSP t pieces but the -4 adapter you used was NPT thread
BSP
Just added u. Im doing similar stuff. Just picked up a f6 long block cheap so its gonna get tbe upgrade treatment too. What pistons did u get?
Mate she’s stock. I do have forgies but they’ll be going in another engine when I get around to it. Good luck with the build, you’ll have a blast. Thanks for the support, cheers 🍻 P
Has anyone turbo converted a bf gas, planning on a draw through setup for sh*ts and gigs
Can't help ya there man but sounds like fun 🍻
Does anyone have the parts list to do this??
th-cam.com/video/2cjEcqXCokE/w-d-xo.html
Did u drill into the sumb with it attached to the engine still wouldn't the medal filings go all through the engine ?
Yes I did, but if you’re careful, and have a very sharp bit, you can do it without any issues. Best way is to pack the bit with grease. Also, it’s a horizontal hole, dramatically reduces the chances of stuff falling in, and the bit by design pushes the swarf back. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching 🍻
@@oldskoolonly Thanks for the informative videos. In regards to the drilling the sump, can you remember the size of the drill bit? Do you also have to tap the two other screws each side? and lastly is that a proprietary hose that you connect to the sump? Thanks in advance. Cheers
I gotta get my hands on one of the Barra jewels but I need to get extraordinarily lucky and find one on the cheap (ya impossible in the ole USA). I wanna stick one in a fox body mustang 1987-93 or one of the so called 4 eyed fox mustangs from the earlier 80’s. Then see how fast a stock style motor/turbo setup will go in 1/8th mile or 1/4 mile drag racing and then go up in hp from that. I figure it’s gonna make an upgraded ford 5.0 302 look bad for sure even in stock-ish settings.
That Barra block and head are truly an engineering wonder it seems. Stupid they didn’t put it in a few American cars I mean it’s FORD for Fords sake. Silly. Cool videos thanks from America the Barra-less land. 🤬😭
Haha cheers man, yeah they are a good thing!! From what I hear they are getting shipped to the states by the container load
I just have to get sump drilled and tapped and I’m done 😎😎🤯
Also of people are critical because they bought a factory turbo at $, nothing wrong if that's what you want, but it's personal choice. Or, those people that have alot to say but don't have the ability. If you're honest, all good, if you're just being a jealous dickhead, yeah well, unfortunately the forums are full of them, all knowledge, no practical experience.
Many people like building their own cars, researching and what goes with it. Think it used to be called hodrodding.