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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ส.ค. 2024
- How to install a new timing belt and reset the timing on a Singer sewing machine.
tutorial with step-by-step instructions and clear video. Showing how to set the timing after belt installation. Timing of the hook to the needle.
![CAMPปลิ้น | EP.79[2/2] มานั่งฮ้านกินข้าวนำกันเด้ออ้ายยย](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pHIS_Sdy8P8/mqdefault.jpg)
Excellent video! Really appreciate the explanation and going the extra mile with the close up stills to explain the hook timing. Thank you very, very much!
Glad the video helped you. I appreciate your very kind comment and that you keep your machine in service. Thank you 🙏
There are a million videos out there to do this..... this is the BEST one so far. thank you thank you !!!
Welcome to Andy Tube, Jacki. I am easily satisfied with the very best. You are kind to take your time to comment. Best of luck and thank you for keeping a vintage machine running and sewing.
Tip top video - fixed my timing first time thanks to you xx
Thanks very much, Vicky. and nicely done.
Thanks a lot for your videos.
I got a 348 very cheap the other day. It looks like new, as the machine had been collecting dust for many years.
It was binding so hard that it would not turn over.
I suspected the age of the timing belt causing it. When taking off the belt, the machine ran nicely.
When putting the belt on again after giving it a masage and with reduced tension it started to turn. Then I heard a crack from the needle area and realized immediately that it was not a good sign...
The needle tip had broken :-). I scratched my head and could not understand what was wrong.
I did not realize the obvoius that my belt inspection required timing adjustment. I was so glad when I found your video. Thanks again.
The belt requires replacement as it is still binding a bit.
But the machine is working and I am exited to see daughter's reaction when she opens her Xmas gift.
I'm glad you found the video too! After receiving so many emails about broken needles after replacing the timing belt I made a few videos like this. I'm so happy for your daughter to get this machine. I think she will love it and it is a very nice model. Strong & versatile besides being a beautiful color ✨ If you need the Instruction Manual it is still available for free from Singer USA at this safe link:
www.singer.com/search/support?title=348 Thanks for commenting and take care.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks again, Andy. Your videos are soooo good.
With the machine I got a paper version of the Instruction Manual in dansih , and its in one piece !! Love the little book.
Made a little video of the machine (amateur version compared to yours).
Hope you can access the link.
drive.google.com/file/d/1wBlQ61-lHEJ-Oks8hlg5L8yfUT8TIhfW/view?usp=sharing
@@perholm4383 I like the video very much. The machine is quite nice and sews well and quietly. Impressive. The case is actually for a Slant-O-Matic and costs $50 to $75 for one in that condition (USA PRICES) The little bent screwdriver is not original and I wonder if it was custom bent for use on the machine? BTW, that last metal piece you showed is hard to find these days and it is used to raise the needle plate for monogramming or free-hand sewing. This model does not have a method to drop the feed dog lower but instead, you place that Riser Piece under the needle plate to raise it above the feed dog. Thank you for sharing your work on my channel, and for saving that gorgeous machine. Oh, I've never seen an instruction book in Dutch before and had no idea Singer printed them. That was a special treat, thanks.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks very much for your reply.
I still have some issues but with the help of your videos I will get there 🙂
@@perholm4383 I know you will do it. Good luck and I hope you find it fun.
Brilliant video, thank you.I have always worked on old pre 1960 stuff. What a difference in quality, no rubber timing belts there, just solid metal moving parts. My 1871 Singer 12k almost 150 years old, sews very well. The 348 will not be around in 150 years. Thanks again, I can now time my friend's machine.
Welcome, Brian. Nice of you to help your friend. I love reading the instruction manual for your 12K machine. It's amazing to me the attachments that were available for it. I think it could go another 150 years if taken care of properly. Yes, the 348 you are timing won't be here in 150 years, but neither will we I guess. Thank you for taking the time to comment.
@@andytubesewing1953 I don't consider this timing belt a problem. It's not even in the class of a plastic gear
Thank you tremendously for your crystal clear instruction and very good shots. You are not holding back any thing. Thank you & God bless.
You.re welcome. No secrets here! I'm glad you found it helpful and thanks for commenting.
Hello Andy, this one is exactly what i need to see. Thank you for this information. Have a nice day.
Welcome. I added documents explaining this procedure to the playlist. Look here:
th-cam.com/video/w9KSRe6zcyo/w-d-xo.html
Thank you so much! My set screws are really tight so I'll need to have my husband help me get them loosened up but this video is really clear and detailed!
Welcome. I'm glad you found the video. Oil & heat work best for me to loosen those screws that seemed to be welded in.
He can do it no worries. 👍 Thanks for taking time to comment. Take Care.
Thank you!!! Much appreciated!
I'm happy if you found it helpful and I appreciate your nice comment good luck
Thank you thank you! Great video! Fixed it all by myself!!!
Nicely done. I'm glad you found the video. Thank you for keeping that machine in service and taking the time to comment. Happy sewing.
this was a real big help thank you for the time you put ion to the video
Really glad it helped out. Thanks for letting me know.
Just fixed a "binding" UK 348 and timing I had to retard the hook quite a lot after that and adjusting the belt the machine was binding here is what I did.
1/ Loosen the 2 hook timing grub screws and the machine turns ove but is only a little tight, removed a bit of belt tension and it was smooth.
2/ set the hook timing again and press the hook and gear together to reduce the clearance and tighten the grub screw, binding again
3/ more clearence between the hook and pully almost 1mm then tighten both the grub screws, nice very smooth.
The other issue was the motor belt was a bit tight, I fixed that first.
The machine now starts slow and will run fast were before you had to help it start with the hand wheel.
all the best to all
Thanks for sharing, and Happy New Year.
Thanks a million!
🙂
Different solution for timing on my 347. Hi Andy. thanks so much for your reply on the discussion board, about removing the on/off switch cover. I did get that off, and now have a hexagonal nut recessed in the body of the machine....I think I'll be able to manage that, but haven't tackled it yet.
Meanwhile, i have a comment about timing on the 347. On my 347, no matter how accurately I placed the hook behind the needle, the timing was never right. With trial and error, i found that if the hook is positioned about 1/8 of an inch to the right of the needle, when the needle bar's lower mark is just disappearing behind the post (on the upstroke)......the timing works!
Having done that, however, I can't make the tension correct. For the benefit of other readers, I'm doing to ask my tension-related question(s) on the tension unit video.
You maybe already saw the timing documents?
th-cam.com/video/w9KSRe6zcyo/w-d-xo.html
About your timing being different. Maybe the needle bar height is off.
th-cam.com/video/V0lSDhhL-VM/w-d-xo.html
I also added the documents just now:
th-cam.com/video/Q6_S1F_l6sw/w-d-xo.html
(P.S. I had to use needle nose pliers to remove the nut on the switch.)
Thanks, Andy; I had to be away from this for a while, but appreciated your reply. I had followed the timing instructions before, but had concentrated on the position of the timing mark. For some reason my fix had worked briefly. I had not tried to work on the needle bar before, assuming that there was no reason for it to be "off." When I finally tried to sew on this again, the timing was (again) obviously off so, seeing your suggestion, I tried to change the needle bar - I can't budge the set screw, though, so instead I used the "needle eye should be 1/16 inch..." positioning as the marker, and ignored the timing mark. Yay, it worked! The timing mark is now invisible, so obviously you are correct that that is the problem. For now I'll leave it as is, since it works with this 'compensation' but if I ever get the set screw loose I can fix the rest. THANKS AGAIN!! Your videos are great, and your in-person comments are most appreciated. P.S. This was my brother-in-law's grandmother's machine, so we're happy to see it in use, even though a new machine would be "easier" LOL. Jane
Nice comment Jane. You found a good workaround. As long as the hook can catch and release the needle thread. If you want to get that set screw loose: since it is so stubborn I usually wrap a scrap of t-shirt around the area and apply oil or wd-40 then slip a baggy & rubber band over the needle bar and let it sit for hours or a day to try and soften the hardened oil. After removing the bag/rag I'll try again. Still stuck? lay rags below and heat the area with a hair dryer and tap on it with the plastic handle of a screw driver. Some times heating and cool down with "break" it free. You have a nice family heirloom. Congrats!
Thank you and God bless you.
I'm very happy you found the video, Charles. Thanks for letting me know. Blessings are always welcome here :) Take Care.
Hey Andy! Thanks so much for this video!! I'm doing some maintenance on my Singer 348 and I'm wondering- do you grease the timing belt after you've put it on? Thanks!
Nope. Don't do that! No grease on anything except metal gears as shown in the owner's manual. No oil or ANYTHING on the belt. They do not need any lubrication. If you wanted to put a drop of oil on the hub BEHIND the pulleys for the belt that's OK. And behind the tensioning pulley. Just turn the pulley by hand and where metal is on metal and moving a drop of oil is good on that hub or base, but away from the belt. You can download a FREE copy of the Instruction Manual from Singer at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=348 It has a section on where to put oil and grease on your machine. Thanks for asking. P.S. if you already have grease on a belt you must take it off the machine and wash it with a degreaser like Krud Kutter Cleaner & Degreaser then let it dry completely. While it's drying you can clean off all the grease that is on any of the pulleys. Once the belt is 100% dry you can reinstall. Thanks for the important question, Bracha, and for watching my channel.
No
that it is the number of the needle and the model.thank you for your answers.
This machine uses catalog 2020 (15X1) needles in sizes 9,11,14,16 & 18. Singer, Schmetz, Organ, and other brands. You can download a free copy of the instruction manual here:
www.singerco.com/uploads/download/9f6eff644490da1893548ddbe0cc151030fb5189.pdf
On page 13 is a chart of the Fabric to Thread to Needle recommendations for this machine.
thank you véry much
very welcome sir
Thank you
welcome. 👍
What if your marks on the needle bar are all the way to the top rather than towards the bottom? Singer FM-22-C
It's a 1995 model so I don't have any documents, like repair manuals, for it. The general theory is the same for all machines though. In my video you see the needle bar is first lowered all the way down and the top mark is set barely under the bushing, the when the handwheel is turned until the lower mark comes up to that spot barely below the bushing the hook must be right behind the needle and the eye of the needle is about 1/16" below the point of the hook. If your timing marks are "all the way to the top" of the needle bar you have to work from above instead of below. Is there an upper bushing the needle bar goes through (that would be normal) if so then the NB is at its lowest when the upper mark is just above (instead of below) the upper bushing. Then raising the NB by turning the handwheel a little you should see the lower mark rise above the bushing. AT that spot the hook point should be behind the needle and the eye of the needle should be 1/16" below the point of the hook. If there is no upper bushing (like it's more in the middle) and not near the marks on your NB then there may be a horizontal mark, like etching into metal maybe) on a nearby part that you use for setting your marks.
Thank you! A BIG help!
Thank you. It is always nice hearing one of my videos was helpful.
I have a Singer 348. Do you have other videos to help me get it going again?
I have videos of similar models. Some have the exact same parts as your 348. I can list the playlists for you, but you'd need to look thru the video titles to find the parts/system you want then see if it matches yours. You can always buy the Service Manual and download it for $9. It has all the adjustments and replacement instructions for the machine. You can find it here: manualsoncd.com/product/singer-347-348-sewing-machine-service-manual/
Otherwise, here are the playlists I mentioned.
th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKHFzTFVJrwVQT6hMfXxFHt.html
th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKVlkxPT9FMTdvUUGj8Ydf8.html
th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKIv5oChf24tvhU_bc45eVYK.html
th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLELksv_-MWE7tiAuzOgQj0.html
th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKK9GeuGLCo6ZyWv-HbheRVK.html
I have been working on a Singer 347 that was given to me as a gift and wasn't working. I am new to sewing and would never have been able to fix this machine without your videos. Thank you!!! I was hoping you could help with my last step in refurbishing this machine. It came with a tensioner instead of an adjusting pulley for the timing belt. I can't find an adjusting pulley anywhere. Do you know where to find one or whether the tensioner will work okay?
I'm not sure what the "tensioner looks like so I can't advise. If it was already on the machine it must have worked before? If you can post a picture that would help. It's doubtful that anyone will be selling the pulley b/c there is no demand. You can look online for people selling parts from a 347/348 and contact them about the pulley. I have done this with success and if they have it they will list it and sell it to you. It is part 98181 and is also on model 348, maybe others. Here is one trusted seller who has 347/348 parts listed for sale and if you contact Connie if she has it I know she will sell it to you. thriftyfarmgirl.com/
Good afternoon Andy. I need your help one more time. I have similar sewing machine, a Singer Fashion mate 362. It was working very good. But one day when I was sewing, the thread got knotted, so I tried relaesing it by pulling.... after that the machine stopped working. The belt doesn't move anymore unless I manually manipulate it. Please help me, what can I do? Thanks in advance.
Yikes! I bet you don't pull on it again. Go here to downlod a free instruction manual:
www.singerco.com/uploads/download/678_362.pdf
Can you remove the bobbin area parts like they show on page 41? If yu can find the thread end, hold it and turn the handwhell backwards veeerrryyyy sloowwwwlyy. and try to pull the thrad off. If that wont work yu can try cuttin any threds yu see with a razor and pick out the pieces with tweezers. You may just have to take off the entire hook system to cleaan it out, belt, pulley, hook, etc. I don;t have a service guie for yur model. Your machine may be out of timing now. I do have a service guide for moel 347. My channel email is andytube53@gmail.com if yu want me to send it to you. Good Luck.
The first time I did this it worked perfectly, why would it keep losing it's timing? I tried several times yesterday and cannot get it to work again.
Is your machine this same Singer Model 347? Be sure the machine is set to center needle and straight stitch, not zigzag before you start. If the height of the needle did not move then something in the hook drive is the problem.
It's just a belt and two pulleys, so what is moving out of place to lose the timing? The set screw holding the hook shaft in the hook pulley? Is the belt old and slipping? The drive pulley (other end of the belt, to the right) is turned by a shaft with a gear on the top by the main horizontal arm. I believe that gear is metal, so very rare for it to break or have teeth chipped off. Later models have a plastic gear on the top that usually breaks with age. Are you sewing very heavy fabric? Is this machine new to you and it came with a timing problem? It must be frustrating, I'm sure. Here is a timing video on a model 413 with belt/pulleys. Maybe you'll see something a different way? th-cam.com/video/pANycD90wQg/w-d-xo.html
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you so much, got it going but still not quite right. Looks good on the top when sewing but the back looks loose. Any ideas?
@@lindajeska5917 The tension of the two threads, needle & bobbin, needs to be balanced so the lock stitch (threads crossing) happens between the layers of fabric. When the thread is loose on one side it means tension on that side is stronger than the tension on the other, so in your case, the bobbin thread tension is stronger than the needle thread tension. Since the needle thread tension is adjustable it is likely the needle thread tension (upper tension) is too loose. First, be positive you are threading the needle thread along the correct path and properly thru the needle thread tension unit. If you need the Instruction Manual you can download it from Singer for free; www.singer.com/search/support?title=347 If your threading is proper, the tension assembly may be dirty or have lint preventing the tension discs from squeezing the thread properly. You can try a quick cleaning by turning the tension knob to zero and brushing/blowing out any lint/dirt inside it. You can carefully and gently pull a strip of soft cloth dipped in alcohol between the tension discs. If needed you can remove, clean, replace, and zero out the tension assembly while checking for broken parts or damage. Here is a series about tension showing how to do all that; th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJaeFB_GW97NsW5GYM7KD9U.html
Thank you for the video, this is really really helpful. I came up against a problem though! After I set the hook timing, I had trouble replacing the bobbin case and it must have been seated wrong because I tried turning the handwheel and now the hook and and pulley won't turn anymore!! The needle pumps but it won't turn together! What do I do?
Oh, sorry you had this experience happen. So the needle "pumps" (goes up and down) but the hook and pulley on the hook do not turn? That means something is loose. Does the pulley on the right side turn when you turn the handwheel? Does the timing belt turn? Help me out here! The needle bar and hook must move together. That is why you set the timing. I'm guessing the set screws on the pulley for the hook are not installed correctly or tight enough and when the bobbin case slipped and jammed the hook then the hook shaft came loose of the pulley screws. It is confusing because even if that happened, the belt should still be turning the pulley.
Here are other timing videos where a timing belt/ pulley system is used; th-cam.com/video/qMOa5QP71as/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/pANycD90wQg/w-d-xo.html Maybe check that out and if still have the problem you could give me a little more information, please. Good Luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you for the amazing and swift response.
You understood correctly, the hook stopped turning. The belt and pulley aren't moving when I turn the handwheel, only the needle goes up and down.
I had ensured that the setscrews were as tight as possible and followed the directions very closely. I think the problem occurred after accidentally jamming the bobbin case for a second when placing it back.
I had readjusted the pulley, hook and setscrews after this happened but it changed nothing.
Prior to this problem, it was running very sluggish. I'd be turning on the motor and it wouldn't always start rolling. The handwheel was hard to turn sometimes too, now it turns easily but only the needle.
I got this thing "tuned" and fixed up (allegedly) several months ago but I think they did a bad job and missed something.
I will check out the videos of course, but any advice would be greatly appreciated, thank you so much!
My machine is actually a Singer Stylist Zig-zag 466, by the way.
@@wizardjokes Ahh, the rest of the story. Thanks for letting me know you have a 466, not a 347. Forget the other videos I mentioned. This video will show you the problem, and how to fix it. Don't shoot the messenger. Good Luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 well this video helped with setting the timing for the 466 it's just that it appears there was an additional problem.
Did you make a typo? You message says "this video will help" but no video was linked. Thanks again! I learned a lot from your video
@@wizardjokes Oh, Brother, so sorry. I DID MAKE A TYPO, well I left off the link. Too many emails today. I believe you have a broken plastic gear on top of the vertical shaft. What you describe are the classic symptoms. I did not mention this before b/c the 347 has a metal gear. The 466 is one of a handful of models known to have that plastic gear problem. Here is the video about it and how to replace it. Play it as double playback speed. th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html
Hola buenas tardes si eres tan amable me puedes facilitar la numeración de esta correa, cuantos dientes tiene y donde la puedo conseguir? TE FELICITO¡¡¡¡¡¡¡ por tomarte el tiempo para compartir este maravilloso trabajo de exelencia mecanica. Tengo una maquina igual a la que reparaste tiene mas de 50 años en mi familia y lo que le falta es la correa de los tiempos a la que ya me he referido gracias
ENGLISH TRANSLATION >> Hello good afternoon if you are so kind, can you give me the numbering of this belt, how many teeth do I have and where can I get it? TE FELICITO¡¡¡¡¡¡¡ for taking the time to share this wonderful work of mechanical excellence. I have a machine equal to the one you repaired, it is more than 50 years old in my family and what it lacks is the belt of the times to which I have already referred thanks
ANDY TUBE'S REPLY >> This machine uses SINGER BELT # 96137. Different machines use different size belts. Lenth and width and teeth or no teeth. Here is a link to a FREE guide for measuring and buying belts. Jenny, the owner of Sew-Classic provides it as a download. It is the best guide I ever saw. She sells belts but wants to help us all no matter where we are.
www.shop.sew-classic.com/media/Sewing%20Machine%20Belt%20Size%20and%20install.pdf
The example is a motor belt, but the way to measure would be the same. Also a link to her belt page:
shop.sew-classic.com/Belts_c3.htm
Good Luck.
SPANISH TRANSLATION >> Diferentes máquinas usan cinturones de diferentes tamaños. Lenth y ancho y dientes o sin dientes. Aquí hay un enlace a una guía GRATUITA para medir y comprar cinturones. Jenny, el propietario de Sew-Classic lo ofrece como una descarga. Es la mejor guía que he visto. Ella vende cinturones pero quiere ayudarnos a todos sin importar dónde estemos.
www.shop.sew-classic.com/media/Sewing%20Machine%20Belt%20Size%20and%20install.pdf
El ejemplo es un cinturón de motor, pero la forma de medir sería la misma. También un enlace a la página de su cinturón:
shop.sew-classic.com/Belts_c3.htm
Buena suerte.
I used Google Translate >> translate.google.com/
thank you so much
Very welcome
Andy thank you so much for all your amazing videos and knowledge. I'm rebuilding a 347 right now. It has a broken tension stud gear (the nylon one) Any tips on installing the new one when it arrives? Thanks! Luke
I did not know you could buy a new gear! I have not been able to find one for a long time. I usually super glue the old one together if it is just cracked. I think I would soak the new one in warm/hot water and put a couple drops of dish soap on the stud and try pushing the gear on with a socket or tube of some kind to put even pressure on the gear all around. You can wash and dry everything afterward. The idea is the gear should not spin on the stud so if it does a drop of superglue (small, tiny) at each end of the gear should hold it. I hope you are successful. Make a video if you can; many people would love seeing how to do that. Take Care.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you Andy. I found the 347 at the dump (garbage tip perhaps you would call it in the U.S.) I bought it for 5 dollars ($2.50 US). It was complete with foot controller and manual. The drip tray is a bit banged up and the little plastic control cover on the front has cracked out on the left side screw hole which is a shame. It's been used a lot and the paint is faded but mechanically, once I got in and cleaned it up I think it's going to be OK.
My girlfriend is in love with it so it will be a great project for me and a big win for her as she sews a lot! I think I have the bug for these things.
I'm a machinist by trade so working on them is really lovely. Such beautiful workmanship in them.
I don't know how to make a youtube video but perhaps I will try to learn and put one up.
Can't thank you enough for all the work you do on your channel Sir. Stay safe in these strange times. Regards, Luke
@@lukefenech We call it the dump here too. What a find! The tension unit sells for $15+ on eBay. Wondering if you saw the before video of this machine in this video before I worked on it. Shows the quality of the machine even after being abused:
th-cam.com/video/04AN-FW7DzA/w-d-xo.html Don't forget to check the foot pedal: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKItPLWcK24FBoMdHK8vTXNi.html and you can speed up the motor if you want: th-cam.com/video/rpTy_Bz3prA/w-d-xo.html
As a machinist, you will probably catch on to working these machines quicker than I did. They are addicting, but people make extra money, even start a side business of working on them. Lots of wonderful models out there. If your lady needs a manual it is FREE to download from Singer USA at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=347
I don't know about where you live, but here in a Metro area of 4.5+ million there are only a handful of sewing repair places and they charge a lot. I'm so safe you could store valuables in me, haha. Be good you guys.
@@andytubesewing1953 Awesome stuff. Hey one last thing....New brushes for the motor in my 347? Do you happen to know where I can source them? Thank you!
@@lukefenech The parts list on the 347 does not have motor parts numbers. If the brush is at least 3/16" long I keep them. IMO, the vintage carbon brushes are a higher (denser) quality than any new one. If I need new ones I usually measure the old one and find the closest to a size that I can. I have had to sand down some to fit and one side will be too wide. If they are a tiny bit more narrow on one side they usually will work fine. Once I have the size I search eBay to compare but have bought many carbon brushes (and other parts) from this seller: www.vintagesingerparts.com/collections/carbon-motor-brushes
Most of the ones I have purchased in the last 8 years, when the source info is available, have been made in China and some in India.
I will even buy used vintage brushes on eBay if possible. I remember the motor on the 347 sold here in the USA was Model SN(K) open motor.
Same on 348 the bottom is the same
correct. They are the same Class of machines; sisters.
@@andytubesewing1953 I have both the 348 has all metal gear as you probably well know I know a lot from watching you.got 7 fashion cams and woke it up I credit you for teaching me all of the basics and tricks to fix these things thank you sir.!
I have picked up a Singer 348 sewing machine that will not a complete cycle. The needle starts to lower then stops with a clunk sound and won't go any farther, you can use the handwheel and reversed it to the up position it just won't go all the way around.
Hmmm... where to start as it could be a half dozen things. How far does the needle go down; does it enter the needle plate? If so, remove the needle and just turn the handwheel towards you by hand to see if that lets the needle bar go fully up and down. You should have the machine set to straight stitch and a #12 stitch length. If it does go up and down completely now, then the timing is off, and the needle is striking the hook which would make a "clunk" and stop all movement.
If that is not the case, then something could be stuck in the hook area; like a broken off needle point, lint ball, dirt, piece of a zipper or button. Therefore, remove the bobbin, bobbin case and slide plate and vacuum or blow out the whole area.
Remove the top and bottom covers and look for broken parts, loose screws and pieces pf broken plastic gears.
The 348 may have a plastic top gear on the top of the vertical shaft, or what is left of a broken gear.
I personally would check the bobbin/hook area first since it takes the most abuse and is vulnerable to lint, dirt, etc. A sewing machine is a fine running mechanical device with very close tolerances. A blockage anywhere will stop the whole machine in it's tracks.
Next step is a thorough cleaning, oiling. You can download a free copy of the instruction manual by going here and entering your model number: www.singerco.com/support/instruction-manuals
It shows how to remove the covers and where to apply oil.
If none of this fixes it, I would remove the lower timing belt, That would isolate the hook from moving and allow only the top end (needle bar/take up lever) to run. If the top end works, you know it is a hook and/or timing problem. In my playlist for this model I included a copy of the Singer Repair Manual pages showing how to install the belt and set the timing. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJS_4FKPb4bgAbHtYWnexvy.html
Also how to adjust needle bar.
Other thoughts are a blockage of the needle bar movement in the front end, a broken zigzag disc under the top cover, something stuck in the cam stack worm gear or something caught/ blocking the motor or timing belt.
The fact that you describe a "Clunk" makes me think the needle is hitting the hook because the hook to needle timing is off.
We are all hoping this helps and that you will let us know the outcome since we all learn from each other.
Good Luck Ann.
It doesn't go down even with needle removed, and timing mark is up above the spot you show however since you can't rotate a complete turn of the machin or not.e I don't know if it would line up
also, the stitch cam does not move when rotating the hand wheel back and forth as that is all you can do to move the needle at the moment.
OK then, I would remove both covers an look for loose/ broken parts. With the covers off you may be able to tell where the clunk is coming from since that is an unusual noise.
Look to see if the top vertical shaft gear is plastic. If so, has it broken? Look at this video at 00:12 to see what a ear/shaft looks like.
th-cam.com/video/y_58gXoZqjA/w-d-xo.html
Clean the bobbin/hook area real good.
If not broken gear, then remove the timing belt and turn hand wheel to see if top end works ok or not.
Will continue tomorrow on this and will check the bobbin area really close as it doesn't turn all the way around either, granted the workings should all work in sink thus will start with the timing and undo the set screws to see if I can move the hook around or not.
I'm sorry I meant a Singer 457.
Hi Ivonne and welcome to Andy Tube. Yes, it will work for your 457. The systems are very similar. The 457 has a "guide" between the pulleys instead of another pully, but replacing adjusting and timing are the same for most of these internal motor belt-driven Singer machines,
Andy Tube Thanks for your quick response. Appreciate it.