Thank you so much for this tutorial!! I had a new sewing machine in my Walmart cart and thought I'd give it one more try on trying to fix my machine. I fixed it with your clear instructions, THANK YOU!!
Well sure, you're welcome, but the thanks go to you for not quitting on that Singer Machines and saving it from the landfill. 🙏 It most likely will sew better than the new plastic models. It's very nice of you to comment on my channel and I'll pin your comment to the top so other viewers might be encouraged to take another look at their machine too. Take care.
Good morning Andy from sunny Liverpool. i used your video again this week to refresh me on repairing 457. hope you are well and looking for your next video. take care Trevor..
I've been repairing a Singer 427 with broken vertical gear. The gear I bought was too long so hubby shaved a couple of mill off it and it works great. After adjusting the timing it still wouldn't stitch properly. Your tip on the height of the needle bar was the last piece in the puzzle. I re-set it as you said, re-did the timing and woohooo it stitches. I had to play around with centring the needle aswell, so many issues with this one. I was gifted it and I think someone had already had a "GO" at it without success hence 5 things needed sorting. Thank you so much.
Thank you for saving that machine. I've had a couple like that and I agree somebody was playing around with it. Trying to fix it but didn't quite understand how it all worked. I'm glad that you didn't give up and happy to hear that my video was helpful to you. Thanks for the nice comment and happy sewing!
How can I ever thank you enough? I am a 71 yr old female who just managed to fix the skip stitch problem I was having with my Stylist 413!!! Now she works beautifully again! THANK YOU SO DO MUCH, for doing all these videos for people like me. You are a God Send! Hope you are well...as I am new to your channel, and subbed. Call me a new FAN!
@@andytubesewing1953 Can I call on you for help with servicing a Singer Futura II 900-925 sewing machine? I can't even remove the top....and see no way to remove the bottom cover. I am sure they need cleaning badly. Even a local repair shop could not fix it.....or service it yet charged me full price anyway. I have been given 3 of these machines. 😲
@@Cherps91 Sorry but due to my health I have not been doing the work or making videos for some time now. You can buy and download a copy of the Service Manual for your machine which may help you very much www.scribd.com/document/351577023/Refurbishing-Upper-tension-Mechanism-Singer-vintage-machines The owner will give you 20% off whatever you buy using my coupon code of andy-h-yt thru July 2024.
A very good tutorial, last Saturday I fix the timing on my wife Singer sewing machine, It was my first time trying to fix a sewing machine, my wife was very happy, she didn't have to pay to do it, it would have cost about $4000 JD, it worked very well, thanks to you
Nicely done, and thanks for keeping the machine in service. I hope she rewarded you for your good repair work, and I'm happy if my video helped you do that. Thanks for the nice comment, and take care.
Sir, You are my hero. That service manual is yet to be desired and this is the only info that broke this down on a level a simpleton like myself can understand......thank you so much.
Great step-by-step presentation. Good videography, and illustrating pictures. For me, best tutorial on the subject that I found. Mine is a belt-driven Singer 4832 C, and the instructions here are applicable.
Please note that the timing belt tension needs to be adjusted correctly first. A loose belt will result in too much play in the hook position. Sometimes when stitches are skipping erratically it is because the belt has stretched out over time and usage. It is a simple procedure to adjust the belt tension. Thanks for the excellent video!
Don is correct that timing belt tension should be checked/reset if needed. This model, like many vintage Singer machines with a timing belt, uses a cogged belt and pulley system to avoid belt slippage and missed stitches. Anyone wanting to see about adjusting timing belt tension can take a look at this video for replacing the belt on a model 413: th-cam.com/video/Yg4OrTCeHxI/w-d-xo.html Thanks for the comment, and for watching my channel.
Brilliant video. Like having your Dsd sitting with you, helping you out. Worked perfectly for my Singer 377. Just got to stop it clumping now and I've cracked it. Thank you so much. ❤
I've never seen a model 377 here, but real happy the video was helpful. I don't know what kind of tension unit is on the 377, but if stitches are clumping it's often a tension issue. Good luck. (I could not even get a copy of the manuals for model 377!)
Thank you. I just repaired my 30 years old machine which was already in my a graveyard. Took me a day to take it apart, clean, oil it and set a hook timing right. My shaft is a bit crooked so if I keep my needle to the right I don't hit a plate and don't break more needles. Just figured it out. Then I got inspired and gave a heavy maintenance to my other 3 machines ( one is 60 years old). And I still have one more to take apart. Yes, I collect machines, I repair and now I plan to repair for friends and maybe later for living, who knows. My husband is really proud of me.
Nicely done, and thank you for saving the machine. You should be proud for what you have done, and I wish more people would try it as they often find they can do it and it is a very rewarding experience. Thanks for watching my channel.
I'm glad you found the video, Jenny, and thanks for sharing about model 263. I've never seen that model but looked up the manual and see the mechanics are the same. I'll update the video to show model 263. Take care.
At last! A sensible yet detailed description. It's taken me all morning to discover on TH-cam/Google andi would have much preferred to pay a sewing machine specialist, but I don't have the finances to allow that. Besides which I am in a field many miles from such an option. Thank you so much Andy Tube for sharing this useful specific knowledge 👍🏼❤
I'm happy you were able to fix it. If the timing on your 457 goes out please check the top gear on the vertical shaft: th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html
Thank you so much. I inherited my moms sewing machine. My mom taught me some basics but I used to play on it making Barbie clothes and that’s how I learned. But mom always set it up for me and fix it if I ran into problems. She bought me a brand new brother sewing machine a couple of years before she died, but it didn’t work right out of the box. It might just be me but now that I have moms old singer 413 I’d much rather use it. It’s old but a better machine. But the other day the needle wasn’t picking up the bottom thread and I have no idea what to do until I started watching your videos. I can’t wait to watch them all. I miss my mom and using her sewing machine that she used to make me and my sister clothes on just makes me feel close to her. So thank you for your videos, they are awesome and very much appreciated. :)
Your comment really touched me. I love hearing that family machines are being restored and brought back into service. They are very worthy of it and they sew much better than many of the modern machines. I'm guessing the sentimental value to you and the pleasure it brings is worth more than any new machine could be. I hope you find my videos useful and if you encounter a problem they do not cover please contact me at my TH-cam channel email andytube53@gmail.com and I'll do my best to help. Thank you for the happy, positive comment. Take Care.
Many thanks, your video taught me enough to fix the timing on my Singer Encore 9027. It hasn't any timing marks that I could find but the rest was similar enough to repair it.
Thanks for sharing this. As a 1993 model the 9027 is about 20 years too know for me and I've never seen one. I have heard of other models like it, all made in Taiwan, that folks could not find similar timing marks on the needle bar, although some had the marks up high and used the upper bushing for setting height & timing. I'm glad you were able to time your machine, 🏆 and if my video helped then it's like a bonus for me 👍 Happy sewing.
Awwww Andy, that is so sweet. I’m in that group along with other vintage Singers groups and your name is very often mentioned, and always in a good way. I’m one for sure who mentions you often bragging about all your knowledge and generosity. This video put a lump in my throat watching it today. There’s no question how much you are loved and appreciated. My generic bobbin case came in today so I’ll be working on putting that together and finally getting to test my 301A. It was interesting watching your video where you compared the bobbin case of the 301A to the 404, I can sure see a difference. Hope you had a great Thanksgiving. I have a few more of your 301A videos to watch, so let me go get busy!
Its great lesson, I was able to correct my problem just watching this video without any prior knowledge about sewing machine repairs. Thank you so much
Thank a lot for this video!! In COVID19 times I can't call a technician. I searched so much a video for my model of sewing machine! My singer is a HD210 and have the same way to off the crab!!! A very particular piece in this kind of model. Thank you!!
Thank you so much!! The timing on my Singer CG-590 got a bit off this morning while I was making a repair on some webbing. I could NOT find the set screws for my hook, until this video. Instead of being on a separate bar (as in all the other videos I saw), the screws were on the pulley UNDERNEATH the timing belt! Your video showed enough that I was finally able to find them and fix the problem. Back to making collars, leashes, and harnesses to stave off boredom during lock-down! :)
Thank you so much !!! like most of the comments .... it is extremely helpful and saved me $$$ there are a few differences with the Singer CG590 - but I was able to improve my situation greatly !!! Well done !!
Glad it helped! Thanks for mentioning the model you fixed in case other viewers have the same one. Better to spend the $$ on fabric and notions, right? Take Care.
Thank you soo much Andy!! You saved me well over $100!! I changed the timing belt and fixed my timing with your video for my Singer Model 5050...granted I found a few differences needless to say I figured it out. Thank you, thank you!!!
Oh, good on you! Nicely done, Marisol. Actually, you're saved yourself over $100 because you did all the work 😀 I'm sure it was rewarding and satisfying to do it, too. Yes, your model 5050 has a few differences, but most models that use a timing belt work on the same method. You could have a little side business now and only charge $75, hehe. Thanks for letting us know and take care.
Nice how to. My 4530 would miss stitches once in a while mostly on thicker seams no matter the stitch length or tension. The process was a little different but similar enough for me to get it dead on. Thank you.
Welcome and glad if the video was helpfull. I think you deserve most of the credit though. Your machine is what I call an "erector set" style with all those dozens of small parts that make it work. It's great you got the correction done. I think it's too complicated for me. Too "modern" of a machine, haha. Thank you for commenting.
This is a great video, thank you for taking the time to make it. I've just replaced the small drive cog on my singer 457 - now I know how to time it! Thanks again.
I'm glad you found the video, Tom. Congrats on the cog replacement. I also show how to time the Model 457 at 1:15:00 in this gear changing video: th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html I have a short playlist of other problems I found on a 457 in case you run into them: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKK9GeuGLCo6ZyWv-HbheRVK.html Thanks for taking time to comment.
Thank you, thank you, thank you! I'm so glad I found your video. Now I am off to look for the video you mentioned for the version without the timing belt.
Welcome, and here are some timing videos of machines that do not use timing belts. th-cam.com/video/9zU1_VjMddQ/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/6pAWzJyV0IY/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/oHGwdEcYGZo/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/zK0Iz8KCvY8/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching Andy Tube
Wow, someone actually caught that, haha. I better be more careful. My screwdriver tips have size markings, but not the LNKs. I had a viewer upset with me on another video b/c I did not say the size, so I was kind of teasing her with the "it's this size". Oops! Nice catch, and thanks for watching my channel.
My goal is to make an inherited (and unfortunately neglected) Singer 401G run like new so I don't have to buy a modern machine. Videos like this really help to understand what I have to do. Slowly getting there...
I can speed up your learning curve somewhat. Think of your 401G as the German version of the Singer Model 401A Slant-O-Matic. A beautiful machine for sure. I have about 80 videos that are more relevant than this one for model 413. Two Playlists on my channel. One is for model 404, the straight stitch only version of model 401A that has mostly the same basic parts as your model, like motor, needle bar, presser bar, gearing, shafts, hook system, etc. Here is the link to the playlist of 56 videos: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKIB4kvIHCfHYuyLMUp5A4UI.html The Model 403A Playlist has 25 videos and some of them are of parts similar to the 401G that the 404 model does not have, like needle bar driving arm, etc. Here is that link; th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg.html These models have the gear-driven systems that I believe your 401G has, instead of a timing belt and belt-driven motor like the 413 in this video. One other thing that may help you is a free copy of the original 401A Sevice Manual that shows how to do everything in my videos. It's a xerox copy someone scanned into a PDF but I found it helpful while working on the machines. Here is the link to download it; sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf Congratulations on your inheritance. I know you have plenty of work ahead of you, but I believe you will find it a rewarding experience and the machine is worthy of your efforts. I'd like to thank you for saving the machine from a landfill somewhere. Best of luck, Hubbi, and thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Andy Tube Andy Tube Yes, you are correct, my machine is completely gear driven, no belt. I already found out that the 401G and 401A are very similar which did help. Your playlist for the 403A though is much more in-depth than everything I've found so far and was really interesting for the more detailed things and tuning. The 404 is also very similar to my machine from a layman's practical point of view. By now my machine works quite well and has been used to sew extensively. I will return to it for fine tuning thread tension and things like that. Very narrow zigzag is not working perfect which would be nice for button holes I think and the machine is still a bit loud. Your help is much appreciated, also the manual. I could not have done this restoration without your videos. It really is about details for a working machine. I think my grand aunt would be happy and I hope the machine will last another generation. Best regards from Germany and keep up the good work.
@@hubbibubbi1370 Happy to hear your machine is doing so well and love your attitude for keeping it sewing for the next generation. Thanks for watching my channel and if I can help, just ask. Best wishes.
Hi Andy! Your videos are so informative! I can't remember what type of Singer Stylist Mom had. It never worked that well for me at the time. Thank you! Kathy
Hey Andy, This is Kathy from Southeastern Arizona. I've been in hospital recently. I have the Singer 500A Rocketeer. I'm looking forward to when I can clean the tension parts and get sewing again. Thank you so much for your "All About Tension" series!
AH, OK! I remember now. Glad you're out of the hospital. Good luck with the Rocketeer tension and I'm glad you like the tension series I did. Take Care.
Thank you for posting this! I picked up an old Singer 1802 that was essentially frozen. After disassembly, clean, lube and reassembly (and replacing the motor) it would run, but wouldn't sew. I knew I had to adjust something, but wasn't sure what. Could not find a service manual but seeing this video put me on the right track. My machine did not have the two lower marks on the needle bar - instead it has 3 (!) near the top bushing. I guessed that the middle one was for bottom dead center (when aligned with bottom of the top bushing) and the one below that for the hook timing. I still haven't figured out what the top mark is for. Anyway, I followed your video as best I could - although I had to make the timing adjustment using the larger pulley on the right (the shaft on the left pulley has a flat for the set screw, so no adjustment there.) I guess at the time, Singer wanted you to buy their toolkit also, because I had a very hard time finding a screwdriver that could reach the two recessed set screws on that right-hand pulley and still be able to apply any reasonable torque on them. I think if the machine ever drifts out of sync again, I will replace those with allen screws. Anyway, thanks again - this old machine purrs right along now.
oh very nicely done you are an intuitive repair person to catch those differences personally I have never seen the three mark needle bar but other viewers have told me about it I'm glad that your machine is running so well and it was very kind of you to leave this comment and let others know about your solution thank you for that and stop by in the future when you get another machine
Hello Andy thank you so much for this video! Was very helpful. However I can’t get the timing allen screws to loosen on the timing pulley to allow me to adjust the needle up above for the timing. Any suggestions?? Also the needle bar isn’t adjusting so that the timing mark is just outside of the spot that you say it needs to be. The needle is able to go to far below the bobbin assembly? Bending the needle.
The first part of checking/setting the timing is to check/set the height of the needle bar. I show this in the video. If your needle bar height is off you will never achieve the correct timing. Here is another needle bar video that may help you: th-cam.com/video/-FezmqypK6w/w-d-xo.html If resetting the timing is required then you will need to loosen the screws on the pulley. One way or the other. If you can't do that you won't be able to time the hook to the needle. You can try penetrating oil on the screws and try heating the screws with a hairdryer. That can help loosen them. You can also put the wrench in the screw and give it a sharp rap with a hammer. That can "shock" the screw and allow it to "break free" enough that you can loosen it. Sometimes turning the wrench while tapping the wrench into the screw with a hammer at the same time works also. I use a 2oz jewelers hammer. You are not pounding in a nail, just rapping the screw to loosen it.
Welcome. When a viewer recently wrote me that the sewing center in her town wanted $125 to fix the timing on her vintage sewing machine I was shocked. Yikes, that's a lot of money for a 15 minute job. I think most people who wanted to could reset the timing themselves; hence this video. I'm glad you liked it and thanks for your comment Mark.
I told you in an earlier video I had just bought a 413. I had time tonight to take a look at it and it seems the gears must need replaced. When turning it over the bobbin hook assembly is not spinning but if I manually advance the shaft I can get it to catch, so it seems some teeth are gone gone gone.. Will you be doing a video on this at some point? Have you done one on another machine that is basically the same? Or do you know where I can get a complete break down of the 413? I have a pretty good background in this sort of thing but would rather not tear into it completely blind if possible.
This covers the top gear on the vertical shaft. I prefer the white gears if available. www.singersewinginfo.co.uk/457gear/ You can email my channel at the address on my "ABOUT" page. I have the service manual for model 416 - 418 which covers the 413 but it does not show replacing the gear. Good Luck.
Wonderful video thank you so much for this!! I am a new sewer and have a Singer Touch & Sew 626 and had to change out a broken gear the other day but ran into an issue I can’t seem to solve. I have set the timing correctly as you demonstrate, and it works GREAT on the first stitch/rotation, but when you keep rotating and the needle goes down a second time, my hook rotation is off such that the needle comes in contact with metal. Always on the SECOND needle rotation. Any thoughts on how I could fix this? The first hook timing rotation is fabulous and as you describe lining up the hook perfectly with the needle, the second however (I should say it’s technically the third rotation for the hook, but the second movement of the needle downwards) finds the hook to be pretty significantly off rotation. Thank you again for all your work on this video!! Hope you and your family are staying well during this pandemic❤️
Your mention of the gear change is the clue. This model 413 has a timing belt and pulleys. Your model 626 has a gear-driven hook drive shaft and hook shaft. If you are making the timing adjustment at the gear directly below the hook you are at the wrong end of the shaft. As weird as it seems you must loosen the gear at the right end of the shaft, the gear that meshes with the gear on the bottom of the vertical shaft. That is how you separate the connection to the needle bar. So take a look at these other timing videos which are on models that have gear drives like yours. I think you'll need to time you machine like that: th-cam.com/video/cHkqoYYlvRE/w-d-xo.html or this one: th-cam.com/video/oHGwdEcYGZo/w-d-xo.html. Does your 626 have plastic gears? Did you change the hook gear or the top gear on the vertical shaft? Just curious for future reference. Yes, we are all OK here and living like hermits. Only questions like yours are saving me from death by boredom, so thank you and good luck.
Andy Tube Ahhh thank you so much for your reply!! So glad you all are doing well. I just watched those two videos you mentioned and they were so great at explaining more about my kind of machine. I had to replace the gear at the bottom of the vertical shaft that broke-they are plastic gears (with metal bases). Even after setting the hook timing properly, I am still running into the same issue with the rotation of the hook being off on the second go around...the only thing I can think of is maybe I replaced the broken gear with the wrong size gear (one with a smaller number of teeth that is potentially making the hook rotation faster than the needle up/down rotation)? Thanks again!
You know what...I think I just noticed I bought the “vertical shaft TOP gear” and replaced that on the bottom instead of buying the “vertical shaft BOTTOM gear.” And I think that might be my main issue. I fit relatively okay, surprisingly! But it’s the wrong size and the rotation with always be off! Thank you thank you for your help with this-I never would have come to that conclusion without your videos and expertise so thank you again!
@@SalShots You are intuitive to realize that and nicely done. I'm laughing b/c I was just sitting here looking at the parts diagram and realized there are 5 gears on the machine and wondering if someone sold you the wrong one. Great minds think alike? Thanks for the mental exercise while being stuck at home. Take care.
Your videos are great Andy. I still have an issue with the timing on the hook. The plate where the hook is on, after I've set it properly seems to slip meaning the plate won't turn when I turn the wheel to move the needle up and down. What do I need to do?
I think you have a broken gear on top of the vertical shaft. If teeth are missing then you are not getting rotation of the timing belt or pulleys or hook. It's a well known problem on about a dozen models with that type of gear. Here is a video about replacing the $10 gear on a 457 that can help you know where the gear is and see if it's broken or damaged. Also, when you took of the oil pan on the bottom if there was small bits of plastic among the lint, well... Here is the gear video: th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html Let me now if you need more help and good luck.
Hi andy. I have problem with my singer 974 machine. The timing is already adjusted properly, but the upper thread get tangled with the bobbin case and didn't get to bring up the lower thread.. what should i do?
That model was not sold in the US and I've never seen it or worked on it. I found an instruction manual for it. I would start by being sure I had the correct bobbin for it. From what I can tell is should be a plastic Class 66 Singer bobbin with the curved sides. Singer has a Class 15 bobbin with straight side that is a little taller. If you used a Class 15 bobbin in a Class 55 machine the needle thread catches on the bobbin. If I found I DID have a Class 66 bobbin I would check that I had inserted the bobbin in the correct direction into the Bobbin Case and I had followed the correct path for threading the needle from the Spool Pin all the way to the Needle. That is all shown starting on page 25 of the Insruction Manual. Remeber, I;ve never seen a model 974 so I could be mistaken about the Class of Bobbin.
Nope. I follow the Singer Service Manual for checking/setting the timing. For this class of machine it states the Needle Positioning Lever is to be set to "C" for center and the Stitch Width Lever set to "0" for straight stitch. I have heard of people setting timing with the needle to the left but I have never seen that in a Service Manual and I have never set the timing that way. Some machines have a Pendulum Timing Adjustment where you usually put the machine in ZigZag or Ric-Rac mode with the width lever all the way to 5 or widest width to test and if timing needs to be reset you move the Needle Postion Lever to "R" for that proceedure. But for Hook Point to Needle Point Timing I have always used Straight Stitch, Center Needle Position.
Really useful. The Allen key size on these old machine for the timing setting is 3/32 - metric won’t fit... that’s if you have those rather than flats. Luckily I had one in an old set 👍
Thanks for all the helpful videos you make. I have a Singer 413 that the hook wont rotate by turning the hand wheel, the hand wheel only moves the needle bar up and down but the hook wont rotate, any help on how to fix this pls?
The top gear on the vertical shaft is broken. The plastic has given up. The replacement gear is about $10. This is such a common problem on a dozen models from that time that I made a video for replacing the gear. The video has almost 30K views now so don't feel alone. Here is the link to the video: th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html The video was made using model 457 but your 413 may be similar enough to it that you could follow my video and replace your gear. You can also buy a Service Manual specific to your model. I see some sellers still have the gears in stock. Best of luck.
My hook plate won't move after re-tighting the screws at the bottom. It won't move when I manually spin the needle up/down. It used to b4 i removed screws 😔 - btw, i did have a broken gear at the top which I replaced watching your other video.
"manually spin the needle up & down" does that mean when you turn the handwheel by hand that the needle bar does move up & down? I get that the hook is not rotating (there is no "plate", just the round hook on the end of a shaft). What IS moving when you turn the handwheel? Like, do either of the pulleys rotate? Does the timing belt rotate?
Hi Andy... thanks for the great care you take in making these wonderful Singer videos... I have effectively been able to recondition my Singer 413 (flea market find) following your detailed instructions... one things has me perplexed... I cannot get the feed dogs to advance the fabric at all... regardless of stitch length or any setting on the machine... I have followed some of your other videos and been successful in centering the dogs correctly under the needle plate and adjusting the height of the feed dogs but nothing has affected the front to back motion of the dogs... wondering if you have run across this before
Congratulations! You are the winner of this week's unusual problem prize. 🏆 Look @ 5:00 in this video: th-cam.com/video/Yg4OrTCeHxI/w-d-xo.html (paused) Those two horizontal shafts above and below the timing belt are what move the feed dog. The upper shaft is the FEED ROCK SHAFT and the lower one if the FEED LIFTING ROCK SHAFT. One rocks the dog front to back and the other does the lifting motion (in an elliptical) Those two shafts are powered by two vertical shafts that go up and connect onto the main horizontal shaft. One is called the FEED FORKED CONNECTION and the top of it looks like a big fork on an eccentric cam. The other is the FEED LIFTING ROCK SHAFT CONNECTING ROD (whew!) and it is to the left of the fork. So those four shafts moving make the dog lift up, move to the back, drop down, move to the front and repeat. (normal sewing) I have never seen a machine where the dog was not moving like that, so I would be looking to see if all four of those shafts were moving and they had no missing screws or hinge screws that hold them together. How much and how far they move is controller by the FEED REGULATOR that most people call the stitch length control. If the feed regulator is broken, disconnected or missing I guess the dog would not move. You can buy a service manual for models 416 & 418 which the 413 is a family member. It's the closest thing to a separate manual for your 413. It has all the feed system adjustments and many are similar to your models parts. That's the best I have for you based on what you are asking. Good Luck Michael.
@@andytubesewing1953 THANK YOU AGAIN ANDY... after having disassembled all the components you mentioned above with no improvement I had failed to check the feed regulator and it looks like it was actually disengaged completely... it seems like that is where the problem was and I am in process now trying to get things moving... you thoughtful response is very much appreciated and it put me on the path of hopefully getting this working... with my sincere thanks... Mike
Kamusta! There are so many things possible. It can be very frustrating. The most common reason is an old or worn needle. The needle is not pushed all the way into the needle clamp, the wrong type/size of the needle. The machine is not threaded properly. There is a problem with tension; too much tension or a dirty tension unit. The machine needs lubrication. The use of cheap thread. The needle bar is set too high, or too low by a tiny amount. The needlepoint to hook point timing is a tiny amount off. The stroke of the check spring on the tension unit is not set properly. There is not enough pressure on the presser foot. Whew! Is your machine a Singer Model 413 as in my video? Are you sewing straight stitch or zigzag, or does it skip in both types? Needle and threading and tension are the most common reasons for skipping. If sewing zigzag, the wider the stitch the less needle thread tension should be used.
I used to work for SCM mechincal ca;culators and my when there was two set screws on a pul;ey usally one had a flat end where it touches the pulley and the other had a pointed end, when ajusting tp close tolerance first scew in the flat end where you can adjust the pulley and when it is in the right position thighten the pointed set screw it will dig intothe shaft, somtimes we hd to pull the pulley out and grind the dimpel on the shaft to esae the adjusment. I hope this is clear. love your videos.
It is very clear and I love that you shared that. The actions you describe make good sense. I imagine the work you did involved much closer tolerances than this sewing machine. I'm happy you like my videos and please comment whenever you can, OK? Take Care.
I know exactly why and sorry to tell you the top gear (plastic) of the vertical shaft has broken. That gets the power from the horizontal shaft and sends it down to the timing pulleys/belt to make the hook rotate. The good news is that for $10 and a couple hours of labor you can replace the gear and be back in service. This problem is so common that I made a video about how to do it: th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html It's a step-by-step type tutorial that has been viewed 38K times now, just to show how many people have experienced the same problem. There is info in the description area below the video fo the gear part number and one place to buy it. I wonder who let all the 413's out of the closet? My 4th question in 2 days about it. You can do it, Coach, and thanks for watching my channel.
Hi Andy, I’m so Grateful to you and your tutorials!!!! I’ve just inherited from My grandma the German version of This Singer 413 and i was able to make it work with your explanations. But now i’ve set the time, i have problems when I switch to zigzag stich, because the needle hits somewhere in the crab. And Also i feel the machine looses the time with just a little work with it, and needs retiming. Do you know what could be happening? Thank you very much!
What you describe is the classics symptoms of a defective top gear on the vertical shaft. It is made of plastic and gets brittle and cracks/chips/breaks. So you set the time, but after sewing a little the gear is slipping around with missing teeth. Soon it will break and the hook won't move at all. There are about a dozen models from those years that have this problem. I made a video about how to replace that gear, which costs about $10. I see the video has 32K views now which shows how common this problem is. Here is the video: th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html Take a look and you'll see the location of the gear then you can peek inside your machine to see how your gear looks. There is a very high probability the gear is your problem. You can do it, Ana, and Grandma and her machine is worth the effort. A new gear can last 20 to 30 years. Get a white plastic gear, not black, if possible. Good Luck!
I've hunted all over the web- Can't find any replacement set screws for my singer merritt 2404. So I can't adjust my timing underneath. Where do you get yours and what is the size? Thanks. Love your videos.
Most Singer screw sizes are proprietary (not common) so I have to buy used parts on eBay from someone parting out a machine (selling off the parts) Model 2404 is about 20 years newer than any machine I've worked on and I do not have a parts manual for it and can not give you a part number for the screw. Do you need replacements b/c the existing screws are damaged? Did you get an existing screw out? On a Singer made in 1988 maybe the screw is standard size and you can take it to a hardware store to have them check the size and thread pattern. A trusted seller I know of has some parts for a model 2404 and has a "Singer Merritt 2404 Rotating Hook Drive Belt Pulley In good used condition with two screws for sale at $6.00 I don't know if that's the parts your talking about but here is Connie's page for the part: www.thriftyfarmgirl.com/singer-2404-merritt-sewing-machine-parts if that is not what you need, you can take picture(s) and email her to ask if she has that part still on the machine. I have done this in the past and if she has it she'll sell it to you. Sorry, that's all I can suggest. Good Luck.
It has a broken plastic gear on the top of the vertical shaft that turns the lower right pulley. The machine is 50+ years old and the plastic gets dried and brittle. You can buy a new gear for about $10 and spend some hours replacing it. This is a known problem on about a dozen models of that decade. I do have a video showing how to replace the gear on a sister machine, model 457K th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html This video has 100,000+ views whish shows how common of a problem this is. Sorry for the bad news, but that's what's going on.
Andy I have a Stylist 513, about 40 years old now. Do you know if parts are still available. The feeds dogs are no longer moving, there are two black plastic gears in the bottom that are missing pieces.
Shirley, yes all the parts you need are available online at different sellers. Terry at site.tandtrepair.com/StylistLine.html has parts, but even more importantly has guides for sale that walk you through changing the gears and resetting the timing. Many stores only sell you the parts. Andy Tube viewers can use this coupon at Terry's store to get 20% off entire orders no limit through 7/31/2019. The code is andy-h-yt when you check out.
Do you have any info on fixing a bobbin winder on a 1980's New Home sewing machine? The smaller metal piece in the middle of the fly wheel became loose and needle won't stop going up and down to wind the bobbin.
Hmmm ... I think you are talking about the clutch washer, or stop motion washer against the end of the handwheel. Maybe? I do not work on New Home, but there are a couple different style of handwheel setups. Here are videos about each style that may help you. th-cam.com/video/hHl96WL1kzA/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/ikPYHWEkA04/w-d-xo.html
My Allen wrenches are old enough that the tiny numbers are worn off. The service manuals rarely say the size of wrench to use. I have a standard set and a metric set and they are loose and all mixed together so I just find the one that fits. If you are using standard size, try metric and if using metric try standard. Is it that your wrench is a bad fit, or the screw is "stuck" or "stubborn"? Use some penetrating oil and I also have used a hardryer to heat up the area to soften and dried up varnished oil that may have "glued" the screw into the hole. I have also done a slightly risky manuver of putting a wrench in the screw and given it a sharp wrap with a small hammer or mallet. Like giving it a jolt to "break it loose they trying to turn it free.
I don't think these directions pertain to model 740/760. I have hundreds of parts/service manuals but none for the Singer model 740. I did find the Instruction Manual at www.singer.com/search/support?title=740 When I look at page 58 of that manual I see the Hook Drive System is a set of 4 gears and not 2 pulleys and a belt like the 413. I'm not sure if the timing is even your issue. Many of the type of machine you own those gears are plastic and your machine is 50+ years old now so chances are the plastic hook gear is worn; maybe the other gears are also. It may be a good idea to investigate further before making any changes with tools. Here is a website for a man with 30+ years of experience working for SInger and having his own repair shop. He knows more than anyone I know of about your type of machine. He sells Service Manuals and has even written his own guide for changing gears and other repairs on them. Here is his page of the 700s models of Singer machines: store.tandtrepair.com/tosew700se.html You see he sells a Timing Guide for $5.95 and has a gear replacement & timing guide for $8.95 as well as other Adjuster Manuals and servicing manuals. On his info page, he gives an email address if you have questions about which manual would be best for you. Terry has always treated my and my friends very well and he is a great guy. You mention the needle touches the "crochet" and I don't know if that means the Hook or what part. The Instruction manual I mentioned above from Singer (It's FREE by the way, you just download a PDF) has some pages for cleaning and how to remove covers, etc. so you should easily be able to look around the machine and remove lint, gunk, etc. and even inspect those gears for damage or missing teeth. That's a good place to start. Good Luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you very much! Above all for the time you took to reply to me 🇮🇹! I have just sent an email to Terry 🤞 Hope he can tell me what's happening to this machine.
With the positioning bracket lifted and mover to the right, place the fork on the tip of the bobbin case around the positioning pin near the top of the hook, hold the bobbin case level and rotate it to the left so the grove on the side of the case slides onto the "edge" or "race" pf the hook, then lift and move the positioning bracket back to the left. See @ 29:00 in this video; th-cam.com/video/JLYNpmFQ3wQ/w-d-xo.html and also @ 13:30 in this video th-cam.com/video/Vvo0ZNjdPRU/w-d-xo.html for examples of reinstalling a class 66 bobbin case back onto the race of the rotary hook. Thanks for watching my channel.
Hi, Steve. Yes, The Gear is Singer Part #155819. Here is the video about changing out the gear and resetting the timing which must be done afterward. th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching my channel.
I followed all of these steps and matched the hook to the needle, but my problem is that the hook does not move after everything is all tightened back up. The belts do not move when the hand wheel is turned. What am I missing? I appreciate your very detailed and easy to follow steps!
Uhoh, I was worried about this. You have not read my reply to your earlier comment yet, I guess. I'm afraid you have a broken plastic gear on the top of the vertical shaft that transfers movement from the main arm shaft/wheel down to the bottom belts and the hook. Good news, a new gear costs about $10 or less. The bad news it can take a couple of hours to replace. It is worth it though b/c that is the only weak part of the machine. There are about 6 to 8 models affected by this problem and it is internationally known. I made a video to explain it and show step-by-step how to replace it. th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html
@@andytubesewing1953 I had a feeling it was something like that. I last had this machine serviced several years ago, and not long after, it stopped working again. At that time, I decided to invest in a newer model and have had the old one just enjoying retirement in its cabinet. Then today I wanted to bring it out and see if I could figure out how to fix it (assuming it was just the tension) without having to fork out a huge payment for someone else to tighten a screw. So, it's a bummer that I never took it back in because I believe they replaced that part back then. Good to know it's a cheap fix, and I don't mind putting in the work to get it up and running again.
@@ChrystineHolcomb I'm sure you can replace the gear, Chrystine. I had dozens of people email me thanks for the video and that they changed the gear successfully. So far their ages have ranged from about 13 to 84. I will mention a couple of things. Several of us feel the white/clearish colored gear is of better quality than the black gear. I'll also remind you not to put oil on any plastic gear. Not needed. I had a fellow write me last summer that his wife paid $120 to have the gear changed and about a week later he decided to oil the machine and thought the manual showed to oil the gear so he did ( it shows to oil at the base of the meatal gear hub ) The next time his wife used the machine the hook quit turning. He opened the machine to find the teeth of the gear had literally melted down. Whew! Of course, after changing the gear you reset the timing, but you already know that. Best of luck. Take Care.
You were right! That gear was covered in oil and chewed to bits! Thank you so much for the help! You've saved me some money and taught me to do something new!
@@ChrystineHolcomb thank you for the verification it makes sense not to put oil on something that's made out of oil I hope the gear change goes smoothly for you and you will soon be enjoying that very nice sewing machine by the way the new gear could easily last 20 years
Hello Andy, I watched your video on replacing the vertical shift gear. I was able to successfully replace mine and time it with your help. My machine seemed to be working great until about 15 min into a project, and it began slowing down until all the motor would do is humm. Please help. It has always randomly hesitated on start for as long as I can remember, and when the gear completely stripped, I thought that was the reason for the hesitation. But apparently not. Seems to be the motor, but I don't know. Please tell me my machine can be saved. It has tremendous sentimental value to me. I would live to send you a pic of it
Oh, don't give up on that nice machine just yet. The long-time hesitation of motor start is a classic sign of a failing foot controller. The foot controller, or pedal, has a long stack of carbon discs that are compressed when you press on the pedal. They resist electricity, but when you push them together they allow more and more electricity to pass through to the motor. Over time the discs can get dirty with carbon deposits and even start cracking. The pedal is about 50 years old now, and probably has never even had service, cleaning, or adjusting. When it starts failing the discs can heat up very fast and just prevent the electricity from passing to the motor enough to make the motor turn or spin, thus the groaning and humming. Your machine should have a "clamshell" style foot pedal, and here is a playlist of videos about cleaning, repairing, and adjusting it to get it working properly. If you can change that gear you can certainly service the pedal, no worries. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKItPLWcK24FBoMdHK8vTXNi.html I truly believe that is your problem, but of course, I can't see or touch the machine. I suppose the new gear, or the work you did, could be binding the machine and preventing turning, but that usually shows up right away and you sewed for awhile. You can put the machine in bobbin winding mode and test it, or put it in sewing mode and turn it by hand to see if it turns OK. If you brought that machine to me I would open the pedal and take a look as the next step to repairing the problem. Good Luck, Angela, and thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 okay, I am so sorry to keep bothering you. When attempting to remove the screw on the underside of the clamp shell foot pedal, the screw is not actually unscrewing, just turning. Am I missing something? It does have a cone shaped washer in place to hold it against the springs. The screw just freely turns in both direction.
@@angelaharper5950 If you pause at 5:05 in this video th-cam.com/video/9uJ0prqbmwg/w-d-xo.html you can see the metal "nut" embedded into the plastic lid of the pedal. That is what holds the screw. If your screw is just spinning freely then maybe the nut has broken free of the plastic. That's all I can think of at the moment. If that is the case you should be able to gently pry up the top of the pedal to have the loose nut come out with the screw. IDK if that would work b/c I've never had this problem. If you can pry it open then you could hold the nut with a plier to unscrew it and glue it back into the lid. Here is a video for gluing into/onto plastic to give you an idea of using baking soda with superglue: th-cam.com/video/NXx6JyP9d5U/w-d-xo.html Let us know how you make out please, and good luck.
I acquired a singer 4220 top stitches are fine bottom ones looks like a line of thread with dots on it I’ve died the bobbin tension after 10 hours went and checked it tonight and straight stitch is fine and as soon as I changed the stitch to another one it got screwed up again as soon as I switched back to straight stitching what can I do now I’m beginning to think my timing is off
If the timing is off you will be skipping stitches completely, meaning some, most or all of the stitches will not form. The needle thread tension and bobbin thread tension must be balanced so the threads cross between the two layers of fabric. An example would be using a red needle thread and green bobbin thread. If tension is balanced you will NOT see red needle thread on the bottom of the fabric, or green bobbin thread on top of the fabric b/c the "lock-stitch" is between the fabric. When you say you have a line of thread with "dots" on it on the bottom that means there is more tension on the bobbin thread than the needle thread, and the bobbin thread is "pulling" the needle thread thru the fabric down to the bottom. The usual way to correct this is by adjusting the needle thread tension to have more tension. It is much, much more common to adjust needle thread tension than to have to change bobbin case tension. Your model 4220 is 40 years newer than the machines I restore, and I do not know the mechanics of it, but in general, an experienced sewist would try adding needle thread tension. Your modern machine has an "auto-tension" setting that you can adjust up or down. If adjusting upper tension did not correct the problem you would normally completely remove the needle thread then clean the tension unit area. On your model, you can unscrew some covers on the front and brush and oil the nose end of the machine. You can also use compressed air to blow out the lint from the tension unit. (even a hairdryer can help blow out dust) You could have so much lint in the tension discs that they can not squeeze the needle thread to put tension on it. When's the last time you cleaned lint from your machine? After cleaning you rethread the needle, closely following the instructions on pages 35 thru 39 of your Instruction Manual and try to stitch again. If you need a copy of your instruction manual you can download a copy FREE from Singer at this link; www.singer.com/search/support?title=4220 So, you have unbalanced tension, maybe b/c the tension unit is dirty, maybe b/c you did not thread the tension unit and needle correctly (getting the thread between the tension discs) maybe you have a bent needle; maybe you are using the wrong thread. Those are the most common causes. Again, if your timing was "off" you would have trouble making any kind of stitch. It is not clear to me what you did to your bobbin case/tension, but try cleaning your machine (pages 64 &65 of manual) and then running the thread into the tension and needle again then test sewing.
Unless there's a lot of wear such that the needle bar has some play from side to side in the bushing, both marks should remain parallel to the bottom of the bushing through the entire stroke of the needle bar.
thanks for watching my channel Carol please take a look at this video I can almost guarantee you a broken top gear is the problem. you can fix it though!! th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html
I have a model 248 very similar to the one on this video. I have done what you did in the video, however, the bottom (the bobbin) is not turning when I turn the hand wheel. I can manual turn the belts by hand under the machine but neither the foot pedal or hand wheel is engaging it. Help.
I've never worked on this model, but looking online at pictures online and a parts manual I think I have bad news and good news for you. The bad; I believe the top gear on the vertical shaft has failed. That gear meshes with a gear on the main arm shaft and the vertical gear/shaft is what powers the hook to rotate. When the gear fails the timing belt, and therefore the hook, will not rotate. The needle bar will go up and down like crazy, but the hook and probably the feed dog won't move. The Good; You can buy a new gear for under $10 and I have a video (25K views now) that may help you remove and replace the gear. It's on a model 457 which is also in a group of machines that are known to have this failing gear and has mechanics similar to your model. You can see by the number of views how common this problem is for machines of that time period. Here is the gear change video if you want to see what I am talking about. Peek inside the machine and see if you have a broken gear: th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html This is where I'd buy the gear; A trusted seller here in the USA that I have used for years: www.ebay.com/itm/SINGER-TOP-VERTICAL-GEAR-242-247-248-252-257-259-267-353-354-6100-7100/291974827596?hash=item43fb0e4e4c:g:HmEAAOSwDFBaDKnI You can buy the gear from other sellers, just be sure it is made for your model. Rarely, the old gear is riveted onto the shaft and is difficult to remove before lowering the shaft and pulling the gear from the front or side of the machine as shown in my movie. If my video does not cover the procedure on your exact model, you can buy a downloadable copy of the Singer Service Manual for it which usually contains instructions with diagrams of replacing that gear and almost every part on the machine. You can buy it here for $8.99: manualsoncd.com/product/singer-240-series-sewing-machine-service-manual/ So, for less than $20 you should be able to get the machine working again if that's all that is wrong with it. If f I am wrong and that gear is not the cause of your problem please let me know. Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 thank you for your quick response. I will look into the links and see if I can troubleshoot further. Thank you again for all your assistance.
Hello I have a question now just found my problem with my machine 😢 can you tell me what part it is ? It's part of the top looks like that my problem not the tension
can you be more clear about the part? I don't know which of the 100 parts you are asking about. Here are all my 413 videos: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKVlkxPT9FMTdvUUGj8Ydf8.html one of the videos is a tour of the machine: th-cam.com/video/ULaBoDecxAU/w-d-xo.html you can also download a free copy of the instruction manual form Singer Support: www.singer.com/search/support?title=413 If you can point out or define the part you are asking about left me know and I'll give you a part number.
So I found a video the part I need is the vertical top shadt gear it broke that's what the part is .I appreciate you videos I got this machine free and used it once until this happened and couldn't figure it out .
@@natashashadden567 Yes, the top gear of the vertical shaft. I've used this gear a dozen times: www.ebay.com/itm/202777631971?epid=665814990&hash=item2f367d1ce3:g:QGcAAOSwMe1deuVX Bob has a good video for replacement, maybe that's what you saw? th-cam.com/video/63LXYiIVuoM/w-d-xo.html IMO, avoid the black gear some sell.
Any chance you can help me identify (and resource) a part that I discovered is broken on my machine I just got while checking the timing? I realized the bobbin hook wasn’t spinning at all, popped the bottom cover off to investigate and a plastic gear fell out. I haven’t the slightest clue where to source a new one.
Since you comment on this video that is about a SInger Model 413, I'll assume that is the model you own. The only plastic gear I'm aware of is at the top of the vertical shaft. That shaft tuns the pulley on the right side of the bottom ofo the machine, which rotates the timing belt, and the pulley on the left that rotates the hook. So, if the hook is not rotating it would follow that is the gear, or gears parts, you found. Model 413 is in a group of SInger machines know to have a failure of that gear after 30 to 40 years of service. It is so common in fact, that several online sellers have the new gear for under $10. The part number of the gear is 155819 and you can search for it. As an example, here is but one of the many sellers I mean: www.ebay.com/itm/Replacement-Top-Vertical-Gear-Fits-Singer-413-416-418-457-466-476-477-478-518-/361467199502?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c1#viTabs_0 If you need some information about replacing the gear and retiming the hook I have a video about it. I demonstrate on a model 457, which is similar to your 413 and can help you understand what is required. Here is a link to my video: th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html
Andy, Yes, it’s a 413. I got the gear issue all fixed, but now I have another issue. Is there a good way to lubricate the crank shaft (i.e. the rod that the hand wheel turns)? I cleaned a lot of rust/gunk off both the presser foot bar and the needle bar, and I’m assuming that the crank may also have some because I feel like there is a tiny bit of binding when I turn the hand crank. When I plugged it in after replacing the gear and tried to run the presser foot, the motor was turning freely,, but wasn’t turning the crank (indicating the belt was a tad too loose). I moved into adjusting the tension on the belt, but if I tighten it even a tiny bit, it restricts the motor, and if I loosen enough that motor sounds good, it’s not turning the crank hardly at all.
@@chrismontgomery8820 Here is a video about cleaning the worm and cam stack gears then applying new grease on a different model to give you some ideas. th-cam.com/video/_SuIiVok64k/w-d-xo.html You can also buy the Service Manual for models 416/418 which is what most of us use for working on the 413 model. manualsoncd.com/product/singer-416-418-sewing-machine-service-manual/ I'll just recommend that the machine be fully lubricated as shown in the Instruction Manual: www.singer.com/search/support?title=413 (I also have an oiling video: th-cam.com/video/XrNh_iaqDMM/w-d-xo.html) When I have had binding after gear replacement I have found a few causes. The new gear mesh is too tight with the vertical gear on the horizontal shaft. I did not install the new gear with the screw on the flat spot and the gear turns out-of-round on the shaft. The gear is taller than the original gear making the mesh too tight. ( a few viewers have reported this. The common fix is grinding down the bottom of the metal base on the new gear). Tiny pieces of the old gear stuck in the teeth of the vertical gear. The Other common binding locations on the machine are the horizontal arm shaft, the take-up lever system, the vibrating bracket. The service manual has a section for adjusting the play between the worm gear and the cam stack gear.
First...thank you for this tutorial. I am trying to save this precious machine my mom gave to me. First thing I noticed watching this video was that the bobbin wasn't moving when I opened the plate and turned the wheel. When I removed the bottom cover, following your directions in this video to check if timing was off, I noticed a broken piece which appears to be from a gear. I think my bobbin gear is broken. I read though the thread of comments and believe this is my issue. I can not afford the service cost and would really like to DIY repair if the process is not to difficult. Are you able to direct me on how to find where this broken piece may have come from and how to replace it? Thank you in advance.
Thank you for saving your machine. Family machines are the best to own. Great personal value. You can repair this (hundreds have done it, maybe 20 in the last 6 weeks have asked how) You don't really have a bobbin "gear", just the pulley on the hook shaft. What is broken on your machine is the top gear on the vertical shaft that meshes with a gear on the main arm shaft up top. It is a plastic gear and of an age that it has dried out and crumbled/cracked/chipped off, etc. This is a known problem on about a dozen singer models from that decade. The new gear costs about $10 and I have a video you can use for step-by-step replacement. I made the video with model 457 which is similar and people have been using it to change gears on a few models. If your machine is very different we can still find a way to change the gear if you are determined. Here is the video: th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html It's a long video so play it at 2 times speed if you like. I tried to make it for everyone, not just mechanics. Good luck, and stay in touch. You can do it!
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you for the prompt reply. I'm about to view the video to determine if I can do this. Time to be the little engine...I think can, I think I can, I think I can. Will send an update. God bless and be safe :-)
I have a Singer 6233 model and I wanted to adjust the needle height. It appears those markings that you are referencing don't exist on this model. Any advice for this model?
I think your model has a Vibrating Bracket the needle bar sits in to swing it for ZigZag sewing. Sometimes the timing marks are up high on the needle bar and use a bushing of the VB to set height/timing. I've never worked on a 6233 (too new) but you can buy a copy of the Service and Parts Manual for $9.00 and download it in PDF format. It will have timing instructions (and all the other parts adjust/remove/replace too. manualsoncd.com/product/singer-6233-sewing-machine-service-parts-manual/ It's a small price for a lot of information about your machine. Thanks for watching my channel and good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks for the advice. I did purchase the manual as advised and will have to dust off my micrometer. There aren't any markings or anything to go by for this model in the manual - only measurements.
I have not worked or seen that model 263. I was able to find an instruction manual: www.singer.com/sites/default/files/product_manual/SINGER%20263_563_878_968%20and%203103%20Sewing%20Machines.pdf Also a parts guide: parts.singerco.com/CPpartCharts/3_39999/3100_SERIES.pdf No one I know has a Service Manual though. Looking at the instruction and parts manuals it looks like the mechanical system is similar to this model 413 and also model 347. th-cam.com/video/dW6haHu4-hU/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/users/edit?video_id=w9KSRe6zcyo&video_referrer=watch That is as close as I can get. Most Singer machines are the same regardless of parts. Timing is correct when the needle bar is set to the lower timing mark the point of the needle should be at the hook point. Either it is a belt and pulley like the 347 or 413 or it is geared and you move the hook shaft. That's all I have, Tess. Good Luck.
Hi Andy! Thank you so much for these amazing videos! I'm wondering if I could ask a question. I've been trying to oil and clean a Zig-Zag Model 413 and it seemed to be working well until it came to sew. Everything in the top looks like it's working well, except I couldn't get the bobbin thread through the centre hole. The needle would not pick up the bobbin thread at all. When I got it through the centre hole by taking off the bobbin plate (with the 5, 3-4-5-6 numbers) and tried to sew, the needle went through but nothing happened. I took off the bobbin plate again to oil things, as well as the reverse-L shaped metal bracket that fits with the bobbin case, and it looks like the race (the circular plastic piece underneath the black plastic bobbin case?) isn't rotating or moving at all. I oiled it, and I've managed to make it move slowly once or twice, but never at regular sewing speed or consistently. Any wisdom on how I can make it work? Thank you so much! Your videos have already been so helpful.
Hi, Jordana. I've got bad news and good news for you. The bad news is that the top gear of the vertical shaft (plastic) has failed. Probably the teeth are/have chipped off. The symptoms you describe are the classic tells of this.You are not alone. Thousands of Singer models from the time have this problem. Now the good news! For $10 and some labor you can fix it and make it like new again. I have a video that you can follow along and remove the old gear and replace it, then reset the timing back to normal and be sewing along just fine. Here is the video: th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html The Gear is SInger Part #155819 Example: www.sewingpartsonline.com/vertical-top-shaft-gear-singer-155819.aspx There are many sellers of this gear so feel free to shop around for price. Try to find a white gear if possible. IMO they are better quality and last longer. Remember, no oil or grease on your new gear. Bad for it. I'm glad you found my channel and asked about your problem, and I hope you will return in the future. I have few more videos of your model th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKVlkxPT9FMTdvUUGj8Ydf8.html Best of luck, Jordana, and take care.
@@jordanaweiss8423 You can do it, Jordana. Yes, if you have time then let me know when it is finished. It is nice for other viewers to see that people are able to do this repair and it gives them confidence that they can do it too! Good Luck.
Hello Andy, I recently picked up a Singer 648 off the side of the road. I've been teaching myself and my daughter how to sew on it, and it's been an amazing learner machine what with touchless bobbin winding and all. Things were going great until the vertical shaft upper timing gear stripped. My local repair shop had the gear in stock, and gave me a 30 second rundown on how to get it out and time the machine. I've replaced the gear, and with the help of your excellent video I've timed it so it works again like a charm. Only thing is, it seems a little noisier and the whole machine seems a bit tighter. Could this be the new gear seating against the old? Have I somehow messed up gear preloads and don't have enough lash? Any ideas? Regardless, thanks so much for this video. My daughter and I have fallen in love with the machine, but it certainly falls into the 'not worth fixing' category if one is paying shop rates. She lives on!
The machine rescue of 2019! Congratulations and thank you. The original part no. for the gear is 163987 and Singer later used part no. 163328 as a replacement. If the shop gave you a gear with one of those part no.s you have the correct gear. There really isn't a gear "preload" that I'm aware of, but usually, gears should be gently pushed together completely during the install and the metal base of the gear, especially on the lower end of that shaft, should not touch or ride on the bearing housing. Our tendency is to push up on the shaft and maybe force a little too hard of a mesh while we tighten the set screw. The new gear you installed is not meant to be greased, but I'm wondering if the broken gear did have oil/grease on it. I'm asking because the last two machines I help viewers with who had a similar noise/roughness it turned out to be small crumbled pieces of the old gear has stuck in the teeth of the metal gear on the arm shaft and when the new gear was installed they ended up stuck between the gears. That throws of the mesh quite a bit of course, right? So the first thing I would go is to check that the new gear and the metal gear it meshes with are clean and free of any plastic bits from the old, broken off gear teeth. Maybe a toothbrush, with alcohol if needed, can fit in there and scrub as the handwheel turns slowly by hand. I would take a very close look at that before I changed any more adjustments. OH, the meshing and gear base touching bearing housing goes for the vertical hook drive shaft on the bottom also. Usually, you can tell if they are rubbing as you get that metal-on-metal humming sound. I only have made one video of changing that top gear on the vertical shaft. On a different model that has a pulley on the bottom, but the whole idea is universal to most model numbers: th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html Thanks again for saving a vintage machine and happy new year 2020
Hi Andy, I sure appreciate you taking the time to reply! I did check that the metal portion of the gear and the bushing support were not touching on the lowers (which all had to come out to get the vertical shaft out), but I haven't checked the vertical. Will do. Also, the whole machine has been greased and oiled, so when I can get it on a decent work surface other than my kitchen table I'll go over it long and hard with the alcohol - it's a mess in there and the lower gears are getting soft too. Just wanted to make sure I could pull off the repair before getting crazy with a whole new gear set. The original upper vertical gear was secured with a roll pin through the gear base and the shaft. (which was a bear to remove!) The replacement gear features a set screw. Could this be an updated design, or do you think I have the wrong gear? I made sure the set screw aligned with the roll pin hole in the shaft to be on the safe side, and in all other ways the gear appeared identical, but of course now that's in my head as a 'hmm.' The machine is working well now but is a bit stiff off the start. I wish I could try a few other machines of similar vintage to see how far off normal mine is. I'll start with cleaning. Do you have a video on proper oiling procedure? Videos I've found lack nuance. Thanks so much again, and happy new year to you and yours as well!
@@markv3559 You impress the he...er, HECK out of me removing the roll pin and gear. Nicely done. I don't really care for the Touch & Sew models with their plastic gears and Auto-Reel or wind in place bobbins. Just my opinion. I did not do an oiling video for a T&S machine but have done a dozen others. Here is one on a model 503A showing full lubrication after washing the machine with Krud Kutter, just don't you put any grease or oil on any gear on your 648. th-cam.com/video/zo3c9CTgVGg/w-d-xo.html Pages 63 thru 68 of the original Instruction Manual show all the lube points of your machine. If you'd like a free copy it is available from Singer at this link (PDF Format, 80 pages, 96MB) www.singer.com/sites/default/files/outdated_product/a6172931362178d23f294bac5f8cd24f48798c80_0.pdf You can also go to Terry's TANDTREPAIR and download some free instructions he has for T&S Models, like working on the tension unit and adjusting the tricky little BW parts and other items. He also sells Vintage Singer parts, supplies, and guides, both factory and ones he wrote. He was a lead tech for Singer in the Decade the T&S machines came out and knows more than anyone I've met about those models. He gives Andy Tube viewers 20% off anything they buy before midnight tonite (he had the coupon for all of 2019) USE COUPON CODE andy-h-yt at checkout. site.tandtrepair.com/600TandSstuff.html I don't know how much work you want to do on the machine, but cleaning and oiling it usually fixes a good 80 to 90% of the problems besides damaged or missing parts. If you find it hard starting it can be lack of oil, especially in those bushing/bearings for the shafts, and it cal also be binding from oil lacking and dirt and dried up old oil (hence the cleaning) I have several cleaning videos, but here is a playlist of a restoration that you can skim through the titles to see if anything looks interesting to you. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJxbOOMKQPvmeTRqi0dhGa5.html Another thing you may (probably) need to look at is the foot controller. Your machine is 50 years old and chances are the foot controller has never been serviced. Countless times I have helped people who wrote to me about a slow, hesitating, buzzing motor and it has turned out to be the foot controller. Here is a series on restoring a clamshell-style controller; th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKItPLWcK24FBoMdHK8vTXNi.html If you do feel it's a motor issue after cleaning the body and mechanics then here is a series for restoring the PA style of motor that's in your model: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJSu0T9oeaheTZsrUe91kkZ.html So you can go as far as you like in working on your T&S it's basically up to you. Anyone that can change out that top gear on the vertical shaft can do any other mechanical adjustment on a sewing machine. I have about 500 videos on my playlist page sorted by the model number that I posted to help people work on, fix, clean, restore vintage Singer Machines: th-cam.com/channels/USPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4w.htmlplaylists?view_as=public I'll just thank you again for saving that T&S and giving it a chance to create, sew and craft again as it was made to do,
I followed this step by step on my Singer Merrit 2404. It also uses a timing belt. But on the next downward movement of the needle, it touches another part of the bobbin case holder. Everything was tightened as per the video. What may cause this?
The top gear has been changed previously, and it has been in use since then. Only the reverse button was just not bringing the desired result. But a few days ago, it just made some rough sounds and since then the needle keeps touching the bobbin case holder even after setting
I wish I could share the photos here. 🙂🙂. After reading through some of the comments on this video, and being thrown of the scent by 1.The fact that the machine was moving more or less smoothly; 2. The focus on the top gear. I decided to still check the gear area(even leaving my lunch halfway, wifey had a good laugh) and lo and behold, the bottom gear was cracked! This has to be removed and replaced. I will check your list of videos, hopefully I will see one that could help. Thanks so much.
I'm not familiar with model 2404 and had to look it up. I found the free instruction manual at Singer on this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=2404 After looking at page 77 of that manual and seeing the views of the top and bottom of the machine I don't know what you mean by "bottom gear". The pictures show a mechanical system very similar to the model 413 in this video that you commented on. The know problem with this type of machine is the plastic gear on top of the verticle shaft. If it has not broken yet it soon will. When the gear breaks, cracks, looses teeth, it is impossible to set or keep the timing on it. You can set the timing perfectly but as soon as the defective gear starts rotating again the timing goes out and you get needle strikes. When the gear breaks off then the hook does not even rotate. I do have a video of replacing that top gear on the verticle shaft. I see it now has 32K+ views which tells us what a common problem this is on about a 10 dozen models from that decade. There are different gear part numbers depending on the model of machine. Here is the video: th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html You see the 457 model has rather easy access to the gear, but some models have less access to it. people have told me of different ways they have had to get access to the gear, like removing the stitch control dials and the motor on some models. I've never worked on a 2404 so can't advise you about that. With everyone trying to sew masks on an old machine and finding the broken gears, so well know sellers are out of stock of that gear right now (5-8-2-20) www.sewingpartsonline.com/vertical-top-shaft-gear-singer-353273-002.aspx some USA eBay sellers have the gear, but without screws: www.ebay.com/itm/New-Upper-Vertical-Shaft-Gear-353273-002-fits-SINGER-1802-1803-1812-1852-1853-/321517327403 and some sellers on ebay are selling direct from China: www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Vertical+Top+Shaft+Gear+for+Singer+%23353273-002&_sacat=0 with up to 6 weeks shipping time! When you see all the model numbers that gear works on it gives you an idea of the thousands of machines that have the gear and potentially the broken gear problem. If you watch my gear video it will give you an idea of what to look for and where the gear is. I hope I have been helpful and not sending you in a wrong direction, but your description of the problem is one I have heard 200 times since March, and it usually turns out to be that gears causing it. Good Luck.
That part is called the hook. If it is not turning that usually means the timing belt and pulleys on the bottom of the machine are not turning either. That is a sign of a broken plastic gear on top of the vertical shaft has broken. It is a very common problem on models of that decade that are now 40+ years old. You can buy a new gear for about $10 and replace it yourself. I made a step-by-step video tutorial for that: th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html Some viewers have had some difficulty with a couple of the models, including the model 413. You can watch the video and see what you think about replacing it. If you run into a problem you may want to buy this guide that Terry Fielding wrote about how to do it. store.tandtrepair.com/400stvgg.html My video was made on a model 457 so you can compare it to your 413. If you do buy the guide, be sure to use my coupon at check out for 20% off. You download it and it is a PDF. Coupon is andy-h-yt Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
There are almost 50 models that start with the number 9. Here is a page showing how to find the model number:www.singer.com/find-your-model There are several different styles of bobbin case latch, cover, positioning springs, brackets, and holders. If you can give me a model number I can help you.
I've never worked on the 240 series of machines. It has the vertical shaft, gear, and pulley system from what I can see in the parts manual. I think the problem would be accessing the gear from the front of the machine. I do not know if there is any kind of access port or space to pull out/put back in the top gear. Some models similar in looks to it must have the horizontal arm shaft and connect parts removed so the gear/shaft can be removed OUT THE TOP of the machine instead of the front as in my video. Terry Fielding has a guide he made for the 250 models (similar to 240) about how to replace the top gear, so that means it can be done I'd guess. You can ask him if his guide works for the 240 models. The guide is $9.50 but he will give you 20% off using my coupon of andy-h-yt so the price for you would be $7.60 It is on his website here: site.tandtrepair.com/Fashion_Mate.html Good Luck.
Model 413? I'm reading your question as the hook does not rotate when the needle bar goes up and down. If I'm getting that correctly I'm afraid the top gear on the vertical shaft of your machine has broken. That vertical shaft is how mechanical power goes from the main arm shaft down to the timing belt to turn the hook. The 413 is one of a group of models that are internationally know to have this plastic gear problem. Maybe I'm wrong and you just have a bad timing belt or something, but 95% of the time I get this question it is a bad gear. If so, for $10 you can buy a new gear, and follow my video to replace it and in a couple of hours you can be back in business usually. th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html If I have totally missed he point of your question I apologize and please try me again. Good Luck.
Sorry, I o not know anything about Brother sewing machines. Timing is universal that as the needle is on the way back up the hook point is behind the needle to catch the thread and the hook point is about 1/16 inch above the eye of the needle. This is true of all sewing machines that have a single needle system regardless of make or model.
thank you very much Kay I do have a couple of headlamps that I use sometimes while working but I found they don't they don't work well with the video so I usually don't wear them while filming. by the way how did you like the video?
hmm thought this might be my issue but it appears thats not the case. When i rotate the wheel so the thread uptake arm is at its peak the center refuses to rotate, its not locked up, it just hits something in the machine and refused to complete the rotation.. :(
You have this model 413? So when you say "the center refused to rotate" are you talking about the hook that surround the bobbin case and bobbin? I'm asking b/c this model is one of a handful of models that is known to have a plastic gear on the top of the vertical shaft. That shaft goes from under the main upper arm shaft down to the bottom pulley on the right side. It powers the timing belt that goes to the pulley on the left that rotates the hook so the hook point can catch the needle thread, wrap it around the bobbin thread and make a stitch. That plastic gear is known to fail at its age. It gets brittle and the teeth can start chipping of and the gear can even crack in half. If the gear is defective the arm/handwheel sometimes turns so far and then gets stuck. I don't know if that is your problem, but it very well may be. I made a video about how to replace the gear with a new $10 gear. It's a long video but maybe you can skip around and view it at 2x speed and see the gear I'm talking about and then peek down into your machine with a flashlight and see what your gear looks like. If it's broken then that is most likely the problem, but even if it is not the exact cause you still need to replace it if you want the machine to work properly. Here is the video:th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html If you find the gear is OK then we can talk about other causes and I can try to get more info. Good Luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
Yep. My video for that now has 46K views and that tells us how common that broken gear is. Too sad b/c they are very nice models,strong & versatile. New gear and back to sewing for 30 years.
(The open base looks just like your does here, has the same pulley configuration but does not move anything when I pull on i5... Should it move when I pull it? If not does this old machine just need cleaning/oiling (?) (Not my machine hence all these questions, thank you so MUCH)
you asked why the bobbin "bed" does not move. I think you mean the hook. The chances are high that the top gear of the vertical shaft is damaged/broken/jammed. That gear is plastic and transfers power from the horizontal arm shaft (main) down to the pulley on the right to turn the timing belt to turn the pulley on the left to turn the hook. The bobbin case sits on the hook race and holds the bobbin. If I'm correct then the gear must be replaced. It costs about $10 and takes a couple of hours. Explicit step-by-step instructions are in my gear replacement video you can find here: th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html You can skip around through this video and see what gear I'm talking about (under the top arm cover) and shine a flashlight down on it and see if it's there in good condition, or busted up and needs replacement. Your machine is one of a handful of model numbers that are internationally known to have this gear problem so do not feel alone. I posted the video about 7 months ago and it has 11,000+ views. Good Luck, and if that is NOT the problem let me know.
@@andytubesewing1953 THANK YOU!! Yes, NOTHING moves at all underneath to make the bobbin twist, the hook as you say, but the needle goes up and down just fine. I will watch your link and follow the instructions. THANK YOU AGAIN!
Model 3342 is from 2016 and still for sale on the SInger website. That's about 45 years newer than the machines I work on. I can't get a parts list or service manual for it. I have no idea if the mechanical parts are similar enough to the model in this video that it would apply to setting the timing. Most modern machines like model 3342 have many plastic parts. I do not know if it has a timing belt with pulleys or timing marks on the needle bar. If you can open the covers and see the same/similar parts then it probably times in the same way.
thank you very much for the interesting videos, I watch you from Morocco I learned a lot. i have a 418 singer. it cuts the thread while sewing, could you help me please.
So many possible causes for that. Here are a few; wrong type needle, needle not inserted completely into the needle clamp by user, or dirt inside needle clamp, needle threaded backwards (wrong direction) needle thread path wrong or incomplete. Dirty tension unit or mis-adjusted tension unit th-cam.com/video/PSCY72bJ3x8/w-d-xo.html wrong class of bobbin used (uses class 66 bobbin) bobbin wound too tight, bobbin inserted into bobbin case the wrong way, bobbin tension incorrect th-cam.com/video/HT5XZ5eYYEQ/w-d-xo.html burr (scratch) on bobbin case is catching/cutting thread, burr on hook/hook point, incorrect thread clearance catching/pinching thread th-cam.com/video/N9aWiTZi4w4/w-d-xo.html Loss of/incorrect needle to hook timing as in the above video.
@@laymad9273 Well, if you checked everything I mentioned above as possible problems, and they all checked OK then I don't have any other ideas why your thread is getting cut. Sorry.
I have really enjoyed looking at your videos. I have a 413 that the hook pully is not turning. Would I need to undo the set screw and make sure the timing is correct. When I looked at the needle and the hook point, I could not see anything was in the right place.
Hi, Carmen. Are you sitting down? I believe you have a defective platic gear on the top of the vertical shaft. Whew! There, I said it. If the hook pulley is not turning that means the drive puller a few inches to the right is not turning. It is the vertical shaft coming down from the top that makes the drive pulley, belt and hook turn. WHen the gear crack, breaks or strips on top then you get no power below. So, you can buy a new gear for about $10, and I made a video about changing that gear. It has 32K+ views now and that shows how common this problem is. You can watch the video and see what I'm talking about. I take you step-by-step through the repair and then the re-timing of the hook and needle. You can do it, Carmen.😄👍✨ Here is the link to the video: th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html Good Luck.
I'm going to have to think long and hard about doing this myself. I had completely lubricated the machine and it sounded so smooth, then this. I was getting it ready to give away to a mother with 3 small children who wanted to learn to sew for her kids. I was also going to teach her to sew. I may take the top off and see if I can see damage. I do see rust on the bottom wheel under the hook pulley. Thought that was the problem. I'll try to let you know what happens.
Thank you for the video! It help me fix the timing that I set improperly after replacing the top gear on the excellent 413 I found in a thrift store a few years ago. Thanks to th-cam.com/video/XrNh_iaqDMM/w-d-xo.html I gave it a proper oiling as well. Now I'm just hoping that cleaning the commutator and, at worst, maybe new brushes (thanks again to your videos) will solve the final issue: motor making a lot of noise and the machine refusing to start sewing at low speed.
It's a nice machine, and congrats for changing the gear out. Can you turn the handwheel normally? I ask b/c my first gear change I meshed the new gear to tightly. Think of the motor in model 413 (SN(K) OPEN) and the foot pedal (Clamshell Style) I found slow starting and groaning more often caused by the pedal than the motor. Just something to think about. Here is my Playlist for restoring the pedal back to factory working condition: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKItPLWcK24FBoMdHK8vTXNi.html I appreciate you watching my channel, Max, and that you saved the machine. Good luck.
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Thank you so much for this tutorial!! I had a new sewing machine in my Walmart cart and thought I'd give it one more try on trying to fix my machine. I fixed it with your clear instructions, THANK YOU!!
Well sure, you're welcome, but the thanks go to you for not quitting on that Singer Machines and saving it from the landfill. 🙏 It most likely will sew better than the new plastic models. It's very nice of you to comment on my channel and I'll pin your comment to the top so other viewers might be encouraged to take another look at their machine too. Take care.
@@andytubesewing1953 You are a gem. Thanks Andy! 😊💎
@@hiyella04 👍
Good morning Andy from sunny Liverpool. i used your video again this week to refresh me on repairing 457. hope you are well and looking for your next video. take care Trevor..
Sunny? Oh, I hope so 🌞I'm glad you did work on the machines.
I've been repairing a Singer 427 with broken vertical gear. The gear I bought was too long so hubby shaved a couple of mill off it and it works great. After adjusting the timing it still wouldn't stitch properly. Your tip on the height of the needle bar was the last piece in the puzzle. I re-set it as you said, re-did the timing and woohooo it stitches. I had to play around with centring the needle aswell, so many issues with this one. I was gifted it and I think someone had already had a "GO" at it without success hence 5 things needed sorting. Thank you so much.
Thank you for saving that machine. I've had a couple like that and I agree somebody was playing around with it. Trying to fix it but didn't quite understand how it all worked. I'm glad that you didn't give up and happy to hear that my video was helpful to you. Thanks for the nice comment and happy sewing!
I love saving things thank you Andy @@andytubesewing1953
How can I ever thank you enough? I am a 71 yr old female who just managed to fix the skip stitch problem I was having with my Stylist 413!!! Now she works beautifully again! THANK YOU SO DO MUCH, for doing all these videos for people like me. You are a God Send! Hope you are well...as I am new to your channel, and subbed. Call me a new FAN!
Your nice comment is thanks enough for me. I appreciate you keeping your machine in service and sewing along. 🙏
Stop by anytime.
@@andytubesewing1953
Can I call on you for help with servicing a Singer Futura II 900-925 sewing machine? I can't even remove the top....and see no way to remove the bottom cover. I am sure they need cleaning badly. Even a local repair shop could not fix it.....or service it yet charged me full price anyway. I have been given 3 of these machines. 😲
@@Cherps91 Sorry but due to my health I have not been doing the work or making videos for some time now.
You can buy and download a copy of the Service Manual for your machine which may help you very much
www.scribd.com/document/351577023/Refurbishing-Upper-tension-Mechanism-Singer-vintage-machines
The owner will give you 20% off whatever you buy using my coupon code of andy-h-yt thru July 2024.
Thanks for the info. Repaired my wife’s machine first try with your help.
@@c5129 nicely done I'm glad you found the video and I appreciate your comment 🙂
A very good tutorial, last Saturday I fix the timing on my wife Singer sewing machine, It was my first time trying to fix a sewing machine, my wife was very happy, she didn't have to pay to do it, it would have cost about $4000 JD, it worked very well, thanks to you
Nicely done, and thanks for keeping the machine in service. I hope she rewarded you for your good repair work, and I'm happy if my video helped you do that. Thanks for the nice comment, and take care.
Great, great, great explanation and walk through step-by-step. Wouldn’t have been able to fix my sewing machine timing without you.
I'm glad you found the video and happy it helped you get back to sewing. Kind of you to take time and comment; Thanks!
Sir, You are my hero. That service manual is yet to be desired and this is the only info that broke this down on a level a simpleton like myself can understand......thank you so much.
You are very kind. You can't be a simpleton if you are smart enough to find my videos 😀I'm glad you did find it helpful and thanks for commenting.
@@andytubesewing1953 😁 I just now got it done and its stiching like a dream, my wife says.
@@dankjankings7339 That's great news. 👍I'm sure she will reward you appropriately 😊
Great step-by-step presentation. Good videography, and illustrating pictures. For me, best tutorial on the subject that I found. Mine is a belt-driven Singer 4832 C, and the instructions here are applicable.
Wow, thanks! I'm glad it helped with your model. Take care.
Please note that the timing belt tension needs to be adjusted correctly first. A loose belt will result in too much play in the hook position. Sometimes when stitches are skipping erratically it is because the belt has stretched out over time and usage. It is a simple procedure to adjust the belt tension.
Thanks for the excellent video!
Don is correct that timing belt tension should be checked/reset if needed. This model, like many vintage Singer machines with a timing belt, uses a cogged belt and pulley system to avoid belt slippage and missed stitches. Anyone wanting to see about adjusting timing belt tension can take a look at this video for replacing the belt on a model 413: th-cam.com/video/Yg4OrTCeHxI/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the comment, and for watching my channel.
Brilliant video. Like having your Dsd sitting with you, helping you out. Worked perfectly for my Singer 377. Just got to stop it clumping now and I've cracked it. Thank you so much. ❤
Dad, that is, not Dsd!
I've never seen a model 377 here, but real happy the video was helpful. I don't know what kind of tension unit is on the 377, but if stitches are clumping it's often a tension issue. Good luck. (I could not even get a copy of the manuals for model 377!)
No worries, we understood 😊
Thank you. I just repaired my 30 years old machine which was already in my a graveyard. Took me a day to take it apart, clean, oil it and set a hook timing right. My shaft is a bit crooked so if I keep my needle to the right I don't hit a plate and don't break more needles. Just figured it out. Then I got inspired and gave a heavy maintenance to my other 3 machines ( one is 60 years old). And I still have one more to take apart. Yes, I collect machines, I repair and now I plan to repair for friends and maybe later for living, who knows.
My husband is really proud of me.
Nicely done, and thank you for saving the machine. You should be proud for what you have done, and I wish more people would try it as they often find they can do it and it is a very rewarding experience. Thanks for watching my channel.
Thank you Mr. Andy. I fixed timed my singer 263 using your tutorial.
I'm glad you found the video, Jenny, and thanks for sharing about model 263. I've never seen that model but looked up the manual and see the mechanics are the same. I'll update the video to show model 263. Take care.
At last! A sensible yet detailed description. It's taken me all morning to discover on TH-cam/Google andi would have much preferred to pay a sewing machine specialist, but I don't have the finances to allow that. Besides which I am in a field many miles from such an option.
Thank you so much Andy Tube for sharing this useful specific knowledge 👍🏼❤
I appreciate your comment and I'm happy. The video was helpful to you in your situation. I feel lucky that you found it
Thank you very much! It wasnt easy but by carefully watching what you did the old singer 457 has come back from sick bay!
I'm happy you were able to fix it. If the timing on your 457 goes out please check the top gear on the vertical shaft: th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html
Thank you so much. I inherited my moms sewing machine. My mom taught me some basics but I used to play on it making Barbie clothes and that’s how I learned. But mom always set it up for me and fix it if I ran into problems. She bought me a brand new brother sewing machine a couple of years before she died, but it didn’t work right out of the box. It might just be me but now that I have moms old singer 413 I’d much rather use it. It’s old but a better machine. But the other day the needle wasn’t picking up the bottom thread and I have no idea what to do until I started watching your videos. I can’t wait to watch them all. I miss my mom and using her sewing machine that she used to make me and my sister clothes on just makes me feel close to her. So thank you for your videos, they are awesome and very much appreciated. :)
Your comment really touched me. I love hearing that family machines are being restored and brought back into service. They are very worthy of it and they sew much better than many of the modern machines. I'm guessing the sentimental value to you and the pleasure it brings is worth more than any new machine could be. I hope you find my videos useful and if you encounter a problem they do not cover please contact me at my TH-cam channel email andytube53@gmail.com and I'll do my best to help. Thank you for the happy, positive comment. Take Care.
Thanks so much for dis, it was such a rescue for me I'm so grateful from Nigeria 😊
You are welcome. I'm glad you found the video. Hope everything is good now. Thanks for the nice comment
Excellent guidance thanks from Srilanka
Glad it was helpful!
Explains procedures very well…!
Thank you, Curtis.
Many thanks, your video taught me enough to fix the timing on my Singer Encore 9027. It hasn't any timing marks that I could find but the rest was similar enough to repair it.
Thanks for sharing this. As a 1993 model the 9027 is about 20 years too know for me and I've never seen one. I have heard of other models like it, all made in Taiwan, that folks could not find similar timing marks on the needle bar, although some had the marks up high and used the upper bushing for setting height & timing. I'm glad you were able to time your machine, 🏆 and if my video helped then it's like a bonus for me 👍 Happy sewing.
Awwww Andy, that is so sweet. I’m in that group along with other vintage Singers groups and your name is very often mentioned, and always in a good way. I’m one for sure who mentions you often bragging about all your knowledge and generosity. This video put a lump in my throat watching it today. There’s no question how much you are loved and appreciated. My generic bobbin case came in today so I’ll be working on putting that together and finally getting to test my 301A. It was interesting watching your video where you compared the bobbin case of the 301A to the 404, I can sure see a difference. Hope you had a great Thanksgiving. I have a few more of your 301A videos to watch, so let me go get busy!
Its great lesson, I was able to correct my problem just watching this video without any prior knowledge about sewing machine repairs. Thank you so much
Glad it helped! It's good you found this video and kind of you to take the time to comment.
Thank a lot for this video!! In COVID19 times I can't call a technician. I searched so much a video for my model of sewing machine! My singer is a HD210 and have the same way to off the crab!!! A very particular piece in this kind of model. Thank you!!
You are welcome. I've never seen the HD210 here, but if the video helped you then I'm happy. Be safe.
Thank you so much!! The timing on my Singer CG-590 got a bit off this morning while I was making a repair on some webbing. I could NOT find the set screws for my hook, until this video. Instead of being on a separate bar (as in all the other videos I saw), the screws were on the pulley UNDERNEATH the timing belt! Your video showed enough that I was finally able to find them and fix the problem. Back to making collars, leashes, and harnesses to stave off boredom during lock-down! :)
Nicely done! I'm glad you found my channel. Don't be a stranger and come back again someday. 500+ videos to alleviate some boredom. Take Care.
Thank you so much !!! like most of the comments .... it is extremely helpful and saved me $$$ there are a few differences with the Singer CG590 - but I was able to improve my situation greatly !!! Well done !!
Glad it helped! Thanks for mentioning the model you fixed in case other viewers have the same one. Better to spend the $$ on fabric and notions, right? Take Care.
Thank you so much for the tutorial, it was very helpful and my timing is fixed!
Hey, good job! I'm glad you found the video and it's very nice of you to leave a comment
Thank you soo much Andy!! You saved me well over $100!! I changed the timing belt and fixed my timing with your video for my Singer Model 5050...granted I found a few differences needless to say I figured it out. Thank you, thank you!!!
Oh, good on you! Nicely done, Marisol. Actually, you're saved yourself over $100 because you did all the work 😀 I'm sure it was rewarding and satisfying to do it, too. Yes, your model 5050 has a few differences, but most models that use a timing belt work on the same method. You could have a little side business now and only charge $75, hehe. Thanks for letting us know and take care.
Thank you for the info and the beautiful video
Καλώς ήρθες ΔΑΜΙΑΝΟΣ. Thanks for watching my channel. Take care.
Nice how to. My 4530 would miss stitches once in a while mostly on thicker seams no matter the stitch length or tension. The process was a little different but similar enough for me to get it dead on. Thank you.
Welcome and glad if the video was helpfull. I think you deserve most of the credit though. Your machine is what I call an "erector set" style with all those dozens of small parts that make it work. It's great you got the correction done. I think it's too complicated for me. Too "modern" of a machine, haha. Thank you for commenting.
Great music too. Love the longer version. Thanks Andy another great video. Thanks
th-cam.com/video/8d4jrtcEJc0/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching Terry.
Thank you for sharing us how to check the timing of the sewing machine its help me to much.I'm a fililipino,
Kamusta, Marcos. You are welcome here on my channel and thank you for watching.
This is a great video, thank you for taking the time to make it. I've just replaced the small drive cog on my singer 457 - now I know how to time it! Thanks again.
I'm glad you found the video, Tom. Congrats on the cog replacement. I also show how to time the Model 457 at 1:15:00 in this gear changing video: th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html I have a short playlist of other problems I found on a 457 in case you run into them: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKK9GeuGLCo6ZyWv-HbheRVK.html Thanks for taking time to comment.
Whoa! I'm so used to slants, when you opened the face I was a little shocked! It looked weird! Great video!
To be honest it's a little weird working on it. It's a great little machine, but it's sure not a slant!
Thank you, thank you, thank you! I'm so glad I found your video. Now I am off to look for the video you mentioned for the version without the timing belt.
Welcome, and here are some timing videos of machines that do not use timing belts.
th-cam.com/video/9zU1_VjMddQ/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/6pAWzJyV0IY/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/oHGwdEcYGZo/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/zK0Iz8KCvY8/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching Andy Tube
Great explanation, thanks a lot...keep sharing 👍
Thank you, Lina. 🙏
its this size, the LNkey:). Thank you for the wonderful video
Wow, someone actually caught that, haha. I better be more careful. My screwdriver tips have size markings, but not the LNKs. I had a viewer upset with me on another video b/c I did not say the size, so I was kind of teasing her with the "it's this size". Oops! Nice catch, and thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Its alright, since I am also into fixing things LNKs are whole bunch to carry for any size any time.
My goal is to make an inherited (and unfortunately neglected) Singer 401G run like new so I don't have to buy a modern machine. Videos like this really help to understand what I have to do. Slowly getting there...
I can speed up your learning curve somewhat. Think of your 401G as the German version of the Singer Model 401A Slant-O-Matic. A beautiful machine for sure. I have about 80 videos that are more relevant than this one for model 413. Two Playlists on my channel. One is for model 404, the straight stitch only version of model 401A that has mostly the same basic parts as your model, like motor, needle bar, presser bar, gearing, shafts, hook system, etc. Here is the link to the playlist of 56 videos:
th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKIB4kvIHCfHYuyLMUp5A4UI.html
The Model 403A Playlist has 25 videos and some of them are of parts similar to the 401G that the 404 model does not have, like needle bar driving arm, etc. Here is that link; th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg.html
These models have the gear-driven systems that I believe your 401G has, instead of a timing belt and belt-driven motor like the 413 in this video. One other thing that may help you is a free copy of the original 401A Sevice Manual that shows how to do everything in my videos. It's a xerox copy someone scanned into a PDF but I found it helpful while working on the machines. Here is the link to download it; sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf
Congratulations on your inheritance. I know you have plenty of work ahead of you, but I believe you will find it a rewarding experience and the machine is worthy of your efforts. I'd like to thank you for saving the machine from a landfill somewhere. Best of luck, Hubbi, and thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Andy Tube Andy Tube Yes, you are correct, my machine is completely gear driven, no belt. I already found out that the 401G and 401A are very similar which did help. Your playlist for the 403A though is much more in-depth than everything I've found so far and was really interesting for the more detailed things and tuning. The 404 is also very similar to my machine from a layman's practical point of view. By now my machine works quite well and has been used to sew extensively. I will return to it for fine tuning thread tension and things like that. Very narrow zigzag is not working perfect which would be nice for button holes I think and the machine is still a bit loud. Your help is much appreciated, also the manual. I could not have done this restoration without your videos. It really is about details for a working machine. I think my grand aunt would be happy and I hope the machine will last another generation. Best regards from Germany and keep up the good work.
@@hubbibubbi1370 Happy to hear your machine is doing so well and love your attitude for keeping it sewing for the next generation. Thanks for watching my channel and if I can help, just ask. Best wishes.
Hi Andy! Your videos are so informative! I can't remember what type of Singer Stylist Mom had. It never worked that well for me at the time. Thank you! Kathy
Thanks for commenting. Do you have a vintage Singer now? Anyway, stop by again soon!
Hey Andy, This is Kathy from Southeastern Arizona. I've been in hospital recently. I have the Singer 500A Rocketeer. I'm looking forward to when I can clean the tension parts and get sewing again. Thank you so much for your "All About Tension" series!
AH, OK! I remember now. Glad you're out of the hospital. Good luck with the Rocketeer tension and I'm glad you like the tension series I did. Take Care.
Thank you for posting this! I picked up an old Singer 1802 that was essentially frozen. After disassembly, clean, lube and reassembly (and replacing the motor) it would run, but wouldn't sew. I knew I had to adjust something, but wasn't sure what. Could not find a service manual but seeing this video put me on the right track. My machine did not have the two lower marks on the needle bar - instead it has 3 (!) near the top bushing. I guessed that the middle one was for bottom dead center (when aligned with bottom of the top bushing) and the one below that for the hook timing. I still haven't figured out what the top mark is for. Anyway, I followed your video as best I could - although I had to make the timing adjustment using the larger pulley on the right (the shaft on the left pulley has a flat for the set screw, so no adjustment there.) I guess at the time, Singer wanted you to buy their toolkit also, because I had a very hard time finding a screwdriver that could reach the two recessed set screws on that right-hand pulley and still be able to apply any reasonable torque on them. I think if the machine ever drifts out of sync again, I will replace those with allen screws. Anyway, thanks again - this old machine purrs right along now.
oh very nicely done you are an intuitive repair person to catch those differences personally I have never seen the three mark needle bar but other viewers have told me about it I'm glad that your machine is running so well and it was very kind of you to leave this comment and let others know about your solution thank you for that and stop by in the future when you get another machine
Hello Andy thank you so much for this video! Was very helpful. However I can’t get the timing allen screws to loosen on the timing pulley to allow me to adjust the needle up above for the timing. Any suggestions?? Also the needle bar isn’t adjusting so that the timing mark is just outside of the spot that you say it needs to be. The needle is able to go to far below the bobbin assembly? Bending the needle.
The first part of checking/setting the timing is to check/set the height of the needle bar. I show this in the video. If your needle bar height is off you will never achieve the correct timing. Here is another needle bar video that may help you:
th-cam.com/video/-FezmqypK6w/w-d-xo.html
If resetting the timing is required then you will need to loosen the screws on the pulley. One way or the other. If you can't do that you won't be able to time the hook to the needle. You can try penetrating oil on the screws and try heating the screws with a hairdryer. That can help loosen them. You can also put the wrench in the screw and give it a sharp rap with a hammer. That can "shock" the screw and allow it to "break free" enough that you can loosen it. Sometimes turning the wrench while tapping the wrench into the screw with a hammer at the same time works also. I use a 2oz jewelers hammer. You are not pounding in a nail, just rapping the screw to loosen it.
Always perfect Andy,
good job ;)
WOW! It's very kind of you to say so, Eric. Thank you, and thanks for watching.
Thank you Andy, very helpful
Welcome. I'm glad you found my video.
Thanks for taking the time to post this video Andy.
Information is power ;O)
Welcome. When a viewer recently wrote me that the sewing center in her town wanted $125 to fix the timing on her vintage sewing machine I was shocked. Yikes, that's a lot of money for a 15 minute job. I think most people who wanted to could reset the timing themselves; hence this video. I'm glad you liked it and thanks for your comment Mark.
I told you in an earlier video I had just bought a 413.
I had time tonight to take a look at it and it seems the gears must need replaced.
When turning it over the bobbin hook assembly is not spinning but if I manually advance the shaft I can get it to catch, so it seems some teeth are gone gone gone..
Will you be doing a video on this at some point?
Have you done one on another machine that is basically the same?
Or do you know where I can get a complete break down of the 413?
I have a pretty good background in this sort of thing but would rather not tear into it completely blind if possible.
This covers the top gear on the vertical shaft. I prefer the white gears if available. www.singersewinginfo.co.uk/457gear/
You can email my channel at the address on my "ABOUT" page. I have the service manual for model 416 - 418 which covers the 413 but it does not show replacing the gear.
Good Luck.
Thank you very much, I’ll check the top gear and Tell you the result!!!
Welcome. I know it is sad news, but knowledge is power and if I', correct you can move forward to repair it. Good Luck.
Wonderful video thank you so much for this!! I am a new sewer and have a Singer Touch & Sew 626 and had to change out a broken gear the other day but ran into an issue I can’t seem to solve. I have set the timing correctly as you demonstrate, and it works GREAT on the first stitch/rotation, but when you keep rotating and the needle goes down a second time, my hook rotation is off such that the needle comes in contact with metal. Always on the SECOND needle rotation. Any thoughts on how I could fix this? The first hook timing rotation is fabulous and as you describe lining up the hook perfectly with the needle, the second however (I should say it’s technically the third rotation for the hook, but the second movement of the needle downwards) finds the hook to be pretty significantly off rotation. Thank you again for all your work on this video!! Hope you and your family are staying well during this pandemic❤️
Your mention of the gear change is the clue. This model 413 has a timing belt and pulleys. Your model 626 has a gear-driven hook drive shaft and hook shaft. If you are making the timing adjustment at the gear directly below the hook you are at the wrong end of the shaft. As weird as it seems you must loosen the gear at the right end of the shaft, the gear that meshes with the gear on the bottom of the vertical shaft. That is how you separate the connection to the needle bar. So take a look at these other timing videos which are on models that have gear drives like yours. I think you'll need to time you machine like that: th-cam.com/video/cHkqoYYlvRE/w-d-xo.html or this one:
th-cam.com/video/oHGwdEcYGZo/w-d-xo.html. Does your 626 have plastic gears? Did you change the hook gear or the top gear on the vertical shaft? Just curious for future reference. Yes, we are all OK here and living like hermits. Only questions like yours are saving me from death by boredom, so thank you and good luck.
Andy Tube Ahhh thank you so much for your reply!! So glad you all are doing well. I just watched those two videos you mentioned and they were so great at explaining more about my kind of machine. I had to replace the gear at the bottom of the vertical shaft that broke-they are plastic gears (with metal bases). Even after setting the hook timing properly, I am still running into the same issue with the rotation of the hook being off on the second go around...the only thing I can think of is maybe I replaced the broken gear with the wrong size gear (one with a smaller number of teeth that is potentially making the hook rotation faster than the needle up/down rotation)? Thanks again!
You know what...I think I just noticed I bought the “vertical shaft TOP gear” and replaced that on the bottom instead of buying the “vertical shaft BOTTOM gear.” And I think that might be my main issue. I fit relatively okay, surprisingly! But it’s the wrong size and the rotation with always be off! Thank you thank you for your help with this-I never would have come to that conclusion without your videos and expertise so thank you again!
@@SalShots You are intuitive to realize that and nicely done. I'm laughing b/c I was just sitting here looking at the parts diagram and realized there are 5 gears on the machine and wondering if someone sold you the wrong one. Great minds think alike? Thanks for the mental exercise while being stuck at home. Take care.
Your videos are great Andy. I still have an issue with the timing on the hook. The plate where the hook is on, after I've set it properly seems to slip meaning the plate won't turn when I turn the wheel to move the needle up and down. What do I need to do?
I think you have a broken gear on top of the vertical shaft. If teeth are missing then you are not getting rotation of the timing belt or pulleys or hook. It's a well known problem on about a dozen models with that type of gear. Here is a video about replacing the $10 gear on a 457 that can help you know where the gear is and see if it's broken or damaged. Also, when you took of the oil pan on the bottom if there was small bits of plastic among the lint, well...
Here is the gear video: th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html
Let me now if you need more help and good luck.
Thank you so much!!
Thanks for watching my channel and Happy sewing!
good teacher
kind of you to say so; thanks.
Hi andy. I have problem with my singer 974 machine. The timing is already adjusted properly, but the upper thread get tangled with the bobbin case and didn't get to bring up the lower thread.. what should i do?
That model was not sold in the US and I've never seen it or worked on it. I found an instruction manual for it. I would start by being sure I had the correct bobbin for it. From what I can tell is should be a plastic Class 66 Singer bobbin with the curved sides. Singer has a Class 15 bobbin with straight side that is a little taller. If you used a Class 15 bobbin in a Class 55 machine the needle thread catches on the bobbin. If I found I DID have a Class 66 bobbin I would check that I had inserted the bobbin in the correct direction into the Bobbin Case and I had followed the correct path for threading the needle from the Spool Pin all the way to the Needle. That is all shown starting on page 25 of the Insruction Manual. Remeber, I;ve never seen a model 974 so I could be mistaken about the Class of Bobbin.
Great video. Wouldn't you want to set up the timing with the needle in the far left position tough?
Nope. I follow the Singer Service Manual for checking/setting the timing. For this class of machine it states the Needle Positioning Lever is to be set to "C" for center and the Stitch Width Lever set to "0" for straight stitch. I have heard of people setting timing with the needle to the left but I have never seen that in a Service Manual and I have never set the timing that way. Some machines have a Pendulum Timing Adjustment where you usually put the machine in ZigZag or Ric-Rac mode with the width lever all the way to 5 or widest width to test and if timing needs to be reset you move the Needle Postion Lever to "R" for that proceedure. But for Hook Point to Needle Point Timing I have always used Straight Stitch, Center Needle Position.
@@andytubesewing1953 thank you for the explanation
No worries. Thanks for watching my channel.
Really useful. The Allen key size on these old machine for the timing setting is 3/32 - metric won’t fit... that’s if you have those rather than flats. Luckily I had one in an old set 👍
Nice of you to let me know, Carl, and thanks for keeping you vintage machine working.
Andy Tube it’s an old Singer 357 - light blue - needed new crown gear and I used your other video for that too - again so helpful - thanks Andy!
oh what a beautiful machine congratulations and I'm glad if my videos helped you out somewhat take care friend
The BEST!
It's kind of you to say so! Thank you.
Gracias por compartir sus habilidades, un cordial saludo.
Es muy amable de su parte comentar así, así que soy yo quien se las agradece. Costura feliz.
Thanks for all the helpful videos you make. I have a Singer 413 that the hook wont rotate by turning the hand wheel, the hand wheel only moves the needle bar up and down but the hook wont rotate, any help on how to fix this pls?
The top gear on the vertical shaft is broken. The plastic has given up. The replacement gear is about $10. This is such a common problem on a dozen models from that time that I made a video for replacing the gear. The video has almost 30K views now so don't feel alone. Here is the link to the video: th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html The video was made using model 457 but your 413 may be similar enough to it that you could follow my video and replace your gear. You can also buy a Service Manual specific to your model. I see some sellers still have the gears in stock. Best of luck.
My hook plate won't move after re-tighting the screws at the bottom. It won't move when I manually spin the needle up/down. It used to b4 i removed screws 😔 - btw, i did have a broken gear at the top which I replaced watching your other video.
"manually spin the needle up & down" does that mean when you turn the handwheel by hand that the needle bar does move up & down? I get that the hook is not rotating (there is no "plate", just the round hook on the end of a shaft). What IS moving when you turn the handwheel? Like, do either of the pulleys rotate? Does the timing belt rotate?
Hi Andy... thanks for the great care you take in making these wonderful Singer videos... I have effectively been able to recondition my Singer 413 (flea market find) following your detailed instructions... one things has me perplexed... I cannot get the feed dogs to advance the fabric at all... regardless of stitch length or any setting on the machine... I have followed some of your other videos and been successful in centering the dogs correctly under the needle plate and adjusting the height of the feed dogs but nothing has affected the front to back motion of the dogs... wondering if you have run across this before
Congratulations! You are the winner of this week's unusual problem prize. 🏆
Look @ 5:00 in this video: th-cam.com/video/Yg4OrTCeHxI/w-d-xo.html (paused)
Those two horizontal shafts above and below the timing belt are what move the feed dog. The upper shaft is the FEED ROCK SHAFT and the lower one if the FEED LIFTING ROCK SHAFT. One rocks the dog front to back and the other does the lifting motion (in an elliptical) Those two shafts are powered by two vertical shafts that go up and connect onto the main horizontal shaft. One is called the FEED FORKED CONNECTION and the top of it looks like a big fork on an eccentric cam. The other is the FEED LIFTING ROCK SHAFT CONNECTING ROD (whew!) and it is to the left of the fork. So those four shafts moving make the dog lift up, move to the back, drop down, move to the front and repeat. (normal sewing) I have never seen a machine where the dog was not moving like that, so I would be looking to see if all four of those shafts were moving and they had no missing screws or hinge screws that hold them together. How much and how far they move is controller by the FEED REGULATOR that most people call the stitch length control. If the feed regulator is broken, disconnected or missing I guess the dog would not move. You can buy a service manual for models 416 & 418 which the 413 is a family member. It's the closest thing to a separate manual for your 413. It has all the feed system adjustments and many are similar to your models parts. That's the best I have for you based on what you are asking. Good Luck Michael.
@@andytubesewing1953 THANK YOU AGAIN ANDY... after having disassembled all the components you mentioned above with no improvement I had failed to check the feed regulator and it looks like it was actually disengaged completely... it seems like that is where the problem was and I am in process now trying to get things moving... you thoughtful response is very much appreciated and it put me on the path of hopefully getting this working... with my sincere thanks... Mike
Really helpful. Thank you.
You are welcome. Nice of you to comment.
hi Andy im from phillipines and can u recommend a fix for my skipping thread sewing machine,this usually happens on hi speed,seldom at low speed.
Kamusta! There are so many things possible. It can be very frustrating. The most common reason is an old or worn needle. The needle is not pushed all the way into the needle clamp, the wrong type/size of the needle. The machine is not threaded properly. There is a problem with tension; too much tension or a dirty tension unit. The machine needs lubrication. The use of cheap thread. The needle bar is set too high, or too low by a tiny amount. The needlepoint to hook point timing is a tiny amount off. The stroke of the check spring on the tension unit is not set properly. There is not enough pressure on the presser foot. Whew! Is your machine a Singer Model 413 as in my video? Are you sewing straight stitch or zigzag, or does it skip in both types? Needle and threading and tension are the most common reasons for skipping. If sewing zigzag, the wider the stitch the less needle thread tension should be used.
I used to work for SCM mechincal ca;culators and my when there was two set screws on a pul;ey usally one had a flat end where it touches the pulley and the other had a pointed end, when ajusting tp close tolerance first scew in the flat end where you can adjust the pulley and when it is in the right position thighten the pointed set screw it will dig intothe shaft, somtimes we hd to pull the pulley out and grind the dimpel on the shaft to esae the adjusment. I hope this is clear. love your videos.
It is very clear and I love that you shared that. The actions you describe make good sense. I imagine the work you did involved much closer tolerances than this sewing machine. I'm happy you like my videos and please comment whenever you can, OK? Take Care.
Great video! I was wondering if you know why the hook isn’t moving when I move the hand wheel?
I know exactly why and sorry to tell you the top gear (plastic) of the vertical shaft has broken. That gets the power from the horizontal shaft and sends it down to the timing pulleys/belt to make the hook rotate. The good news is that for $10 and a couple hours of labor you can replace the gear and be back in service. This problem is so common that I made a video about how to do it: th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html
It's a step-by-step type tutorial that has been viewed 38K times now, just to show how many people have experienced the same problem. There is info in the description area below the video fo the gear part number and one place to buy it. I wonder who let all the 413's out of the closet? My 4th question in 2 days about it.
You can do it, Coach, and thanks for watching my channel.
Hi Andy, I’m so Grateful to you and your tutorials!!!! I’ve just inherited from My grandma the German version of This Singer 413 and i was able to make it work with your explanations. But now i’ve set the time, i have problems when I switch to zigzag stich, because the needle hits somewhere in the crab. And Also i feel the machine looses the time with just a little work with it, and needs retiming. Do you know what could be happening? Thank you very much!
What you describe is the classics symptoms of a defective top gear on the vertical shaft. It is made of plastic and gets brittle and cracks/chips/breaks. So you set the time, but after sewing a little the gear is slipping around with missing teeth. Soon it will break and the hook won't move at all. There are about a dozen models from those years that have this problem. I made a video about how to replace that gear, which costs about $10. I see the video has 32K views now which shows how common this problem is. Here is the video: th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html Take a look and you'll see the location of the gear then you can peek inside your machine to see how your gear looks. There is a very high probability the gear is your problem. You can do it, Ana, and Grandma and her machine is worth the effort. A new gear can last 20 to 30 years. Get a white plastic gear, not black, if possible. Good Luck!
I've hunted all over the web- Can't find any replacement set screws for my singer merritt 2404. So I can't adjust my timing underneath. Where do you get yours and what is the size? Thanks. Love your videos.
Most Singer screw sizes are proprietary (not common) so I have to buy used parts on eBay from someone parting out a machine (selling off the parts) Model 2404 is about 20 years newer than any machine I've worked on and I do not have a parts manual for it and can not give you a part number for the screw. Do you need replacements b/c the existing screws are damaged? Did you get an existing screw out? On a Singer made in 1988 maybe the screw is standard size and you can take it to a hardware store to have them check the size and thread pattern. A trusted seller I know of has some parts for a model 2404 and has a "Singer Merritt 2404 Rotating Hook Drive Belt Pulley
In good used condition with two screws for sale at $6.00 I don't know if that's the parts your talking about but here is Connie's page for the part: www.thriftyfarmgirl.com/singer-2404-merritt-sewing-machine-parts if that is not what you need, you can take picture(s) and email her to ask if she has that part still on the machine. I have done this in the past and if she has it she'll sell it to you. Sorry, that's all I can suggest. Good Luck.
My belt is not spinning. I tried everything. Do you have a vid on how to get the belt spinning?
It has a broken plastic gear on the top of the vertical shaft that turns the lower right pulley. The machine is 50+ years old and the plastic gets dried and brittle. You can buy a new gear for about $10 and spend some hours replacing it. This is a known problem on about a dozen models of that decade. I do have a video showing how to replace the gear on a sister machine, model 457K th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html This video has 100,000+ views whish shows how common of a problem this is. Sorry for the bad news, but that's what's going on.
Andy I have a Stylist 513, about 40 years old now. Do you know if parts are still available. The feeds dogs are no longer moving, there are two black plastic gears in the bottom that are missing pieces.
Shirley, yes all the parts you need are available online at different sellers. Terry at site.tandtrepair.com/StylistLine.html
has parts, but even more importantly has guides for sale that walk you through changing the gears and resetting the timing. Many stores only sell you the parts. Andy Tube viewers can use this coupon at Terry's store to get 20% off entire orders no limit through 7/31/2019. The code is andy-h-yt when you check out.
Do you have any info on fixing a bobbin winder on a 1980's New Home sewing machine? The smaller metal piece in the middle of the fly wheel became loose and needle won't stop going up and down to wind the bobbin.
Hmmm ... I think you are talking about the clutch washer, or stop motion washer against the end of the handwheel. Maybe? I do not work on New Home, but there are a couple different style of handwheel setups. Here are videos about each style that may help you. th-cam.com/video/hHl96WL1kzA/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/ikPYHWEkA04/w-d-xo.html
What size Ellen key did you use, please? I'm trying to adjust stylist 457 and I'm struggling to free up the bobbin pulley.
My Allen wrenches are old enough that the tiny numbers are worn off. The service manuals rarely say the size of wrench to use. I have a standard set and a metric set and they are loose and all mixed together so I just find the one that fits. If you are using standard size, try metric and if using metric try standard. Is it that your wrench is a bad fit, or the screw is "stuck" or "stubborn"? Use some penetrating oil and I also have used a hardryer to heat up the area to soften and dried up varnished oil that may have "glued" the screw into the hole. I have also done a slightly risky manuver of putting a wrench in the screw and given it a sharp wrap with a small hammer or mallet. Like giving it a jolt to "break it loose they trying to turn it free.
Cheers, the Allan key/wrench for the set screws underneath is 3/32 on my Singer 449, quite possibly the same for several other models 😉
Thank you for sharing on my channel. I pinned your comment to the top. Very kind of you. Take Care.
Hello. Can I use these instructions also for my Singer 740? I'm having problems because the needle touches the crochet, bends and breaks.
I don't think these directions pertain to model 740/760. I have hundreds of parts/service manuals but none for the Singer model 740. I did find the Instruction Manual at www.singer.com/search/support?title=740
When I look at page 58 of that manual I see the Hook Drive System is a set of 4 gears and not 2 pulleys and a belt like the 413.
I'm not sure if the timing is even your issue. Many of the type of machine you own those gears are plastic and your machine is 50+ years old now so chances are the plastic hook gear is worn; maybe the other gears are also. It may be a good idea to investigate further before making any changes with tools.
Here is a website for a man with 30+ years of experience working for SInger and having his own repair shop. He knows more than anyone I know of about your type of machine. He sells Service Manuals and has even written his own guide for changing gears and other repairs on them. Here is his page of the 700s models of Singer machines: store.tandtrepair.com/tosew700se.html You see he sells a Timing Guide for $5.95 and has a gear replacement & timing guide for $8.95 as well as other Adjuster Manuals and servicing manuals. On his info page, he gives an email address if you have questions about which manual would be best for you. Terry has always treated my and my friends very well and he is a great guy.
You mention the needle touches the "crochet" and I don't know if that means the Hook or what part. The Instruction manual I mentioned above from Singer (It's FREE by the way, you just download a PDF) has some pages for cleaning and how to remove covers, etc. so you should easily be able to look around the machine and remove lint, gunk, etc. and even inspect those gears for damage or missing teeth. That's a good place to start.
Good Luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you very much! Above all for the time you took to reply to me 🇮🇹! I have just sent an email to Terry 🤞 Hope he can tell me what's happening to this machine.
@@claudiaterra5441 He still has full time work, but he has been good to us so many times. Best of luck.
Hello Andy how do I put the bobbin case and everything back in with the bobbin case correctly after I took it apart from adjusting the timing?
With the positioning bracket lifted and mover to the right, place the fork on the tip of the bobbin case around the positioning pin near the top of the hook, hold the bobbin case level and rotate it to the left so the grove on the side of the case slides onto the "edge" or "race" pf the hook, then lift and move the positioning bracket back to the left. See @ 29:00 in this video;
th-cam.com/video/JLYNpmFQ3wQ/w-d-xo.html and also @ 13:30 in this video th-cam.com/video/Vvo0ZNjdPRU/w-d-xo.html for examples of reinstalling a class 66 bobbin case back onto the race of the rotary hook. Thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 okay thank you so much for all your help really appreciate it!! Will try to get it
@@januaryjackson9752 No worries; I know you will do it. Take care.
Hi Andy, are any of the internal plastic gear heads available. My bottom end is not working.
Hi, Steve. Yes, The Gear is Singer Part #155819. Here is the video about changing out the gear and resetting the timing which must be done afterward. th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching my channel.
I followed all of these steps and matched the hook to the needle, but my problem is that the hook does not move after everything is all tightened back up. The belts do not move when the hand wheel is turned. What am I missing? I appreciate your very detailed and easy to follow steps!
Uhoh, I was worried about this. You have not read my reply to your earlier comment yet, I guess. I'm afraid you have a broken plastic gear on the top of the vertical shaft that transfers movement from the main arm shaft/wheel down to the bottom belts and the hook. Good news, a new gear costs about $10 or less. The bad news it can take a couple of hours to replace. It is worth it though b/c that is the only weak part of the machine. There are about 6 to 8 models affected by this problem and it is internationally known. I made a video to explain it and show step-by-step how to replace it. th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html
@@andytubesewing1953 I had a feeling it was something like that. I last had this machine serviced several years ago, and not long after, it stopped working again. At that time, I decided to invest in a newer model and have had the old one just enjoying retirement in its cabinet. Then today I wanted to bring it out and see if I could figure out how to fix it (assuming it was just the tension) without having to fork out a huge payment for someone else to tighten a screw. So, it's a bummer that I never took it back in because I believe they replaced that part back then. Good to know it's a cheap fix, and I don't mind putting in the work to get it up and running again.
@@ChrystineHolcomb I'm sure you can replace the gear, Chrystine. I had dozens of people email me thanks for the video and that they changed the gear successfully. So far their ages have ranged from about 13 to 84. I will mention a couple of things. Several of us feel the white/clearish colored gear is of better quality than the black gear. I'll also remind you not to put oil on any plastic gear. Not needed. I had a fellow write me last summer that his wife paid $120 to have the gear changed and about a week later he decided to oil the machine and thought the manual showed to oil the gear so he did ( it shows to oil at the base of the meatal gear hub ) The next time his wife used the machine the hook quit turning. He opened the machine to find the teeth of the gear had literally melted down. Whew! Of course, after changing the gear you reset the timing, but you already know that. Best of luck. Take Care.
You were right! That gear was covered in oil and chewed to bits! Thank you so much for the help! You've saved me some money and taught me to do something new!
@@ChrystineHolcomb thank you for the verification it makes sense not to put oil on something that's made out of oil I hope the gear change goes smoothly for you and you will soon be enjoying that very nice sewing machine by the way the new gear could easily last 20 years
Hello Andy,
I watched your video on replacing the vertical shift gear. I was able to successfully replace mine and time it with your help. My machine seemed to be working great until about 15 min into a project, and it began slowing down until all the motor would do is humm. Please help. It has always randomly hesitated on start for as long as I can remember, and when the gear completely stripped, I thought that was the reason for the hesitation. But apparently not. Seems to be the motor, but I don't know. Please tell me my machine can be saved. It has tremendous sentimental value to me. I would live to send you a pic of it
Oh, don't give up on that nice machine just yet. The long-time hesitation of motor start is a classic sign of a failing foot controller. The foot controller, or pedal, has a long stack of carbon discs that are compressed when you press on the pedal. They resist electricity, but when you push them together they allow more and more electricity to pass through to the motor. Over time the discs can get dirty with carbon deposits and even start cracking. The pedal is about 50 years old now, and probably has never even had service, cleaning, or adjusting. When it starts failing the discs can heat up very fast and just prevent the electricity from passing to the motor enough to make the motor turn or spin, thus the groaning and humming. Your machine should have a "clamshell" style foot pedal, and here is a playlist of videos about cleaning, repairing, and adjusting it to get it working properly. If you can change that gear you can certainly service the pedal, no worries. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKItPLWcK24FBoMdHK8vTXNi.html
I truly believe that is your problem, but of course, I can't see or touch the machine. I suppose the new gear, or the work you did, could be binding the machine and preventing turning, but that usually shows up right away and you sewed for awhile. You can put the machine in bobbin winding mode and test it, or put it in sewing mode and turn it by hand to see if it turns OK. If you brought that machine to me I would open the pedal and take a look as the next step to repairing the problem. Good Luck, Angela, and thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Don't worry. I don't give up. Thank you so much. I will get on it as soon as I get home. I will let you.
@@angelaharper5950 Best of luck then.
@@andytubesewing1953 okay, I am so sorry to keep bothering you. When attempting to remove the screw on the underside of the clamp shell foot pedal, the screw is not actually unscrewing, just turning. Am I missing something? It does have a cone shaped washer in place to hold it against the springs. The screw just freely turns in both direction.
@@angelaharper5950 If you pause at 5:05 in this video th-cam.com/video/9uJ0prqbmwg/w-d-xo.html you can see the metal "nut" embedded into the plastic lid of the pedal. That is what holds the screw. If your screw is just spinning freely then maybe the nut has broken free of the plastic. That's all I can think of at the moment. If that is the case you should be able to gently pry up the top of the pedal to have the loose nut come out with the screw. IDK if that would work b/c I've never had this problem. If you can pry it open then you could hold the nut with a plier to unscrew it and glue it back into the lid. Here is a video for gluing into/onto plastic to give you an idea of using baking soda with superglue: th-cam.com/video/NXx6JyP9d5U/w-d-xo.html Let us know how you make out please, and good luck.
I acquired a singer 4220 top stitches are fine bottom ones looks like a line of thread with dots on it I’ve died the bobbin tension after 10 hours went and checked it tonight and straight stitch is fine and as soon as I changed the stitch to another one it got screwed up again as soon as I switched back to straight stitching what can I do now I’m beginning to think my timing is off
If the timing is off you will be skipping stitches completely, meaning some, most or all of the stitches will not form. The needle thread tension and bobbin thread tension must be balanced so the threads cross between the two layers of fabric. An example would be using a red needle thread and green bobbin thread. If tension is balanced you will NOT see red needle thread on the bottom of the fabric, or green bobbin thread on top of the fabric b/c the "lock-stitch" is between the fabric. When you say you have a line of thread with "dots" on it on the bottom that means there is more tension on the bobbin thread than the needle thread, and the bobbin thread is "pulling" the needle thread thru the fabric down to the bottom. The usual way to correct this is by adjusting the needle thread tension to have more tension. It is much, much more common to adjust needle thread tension than to have to change bobbin case tension.
Your model 4220 is 40 years newer than the machines I restore, and I do not know the mechanics of it, but in general, an experienced sewist would try adding needle thread tension. Your modern machine has an "auto-tension" setting that you can adjust up or down.
If adjusting upper tension did not correct the problem you would normally completely remove the needle thread then clean the tension unit area. On your model, you can unscrew some covers on the front and brush and oil the nose end of the machine. You can also use compressed air to blow out the lint from the tension unit. (even a hairdryer can help blow out dust) You could have so much lint in the tension discs that they can not squeeze the needle thread to put tension on it. When's the last time you cleaned lint from your machine? After cleaning you rethread the needle, closely following the instructions on pages 35 thru 39 of your Instruction Manual and try to stitch again. If you need a copy of your instruction manual you can download a copy FREE from Singer at this link; www.singer.com/search/support?title=4220
So, you have unbalanced tension, maybe b/c the tension unit is dirty, maybe b/c you did not thread the tension unit and needle correctly (getting the thread between the tension discs) maybe you have a bent needle; maybe you are using the wrong thread. Those are the most common causes. Again, if your timing was "off" you would have trouble making any kind of stitch. It is not clear to me what you did to your bobbin case/tension, but try cleaning your machine (pages 64 &65 of manual) and then running the thread into the tension and needle again then test sewing.
Unless there's a lot of wear such that the needle bar has some play from side to side in the bushing, both marks should remain parallel to the bottom of the bushing through the entire stroke of the needle bar.
Thanks for sharing, Kevin.
very informative. question - why would my hook not be rotating? as needle goes up and down, hook does not rotate. any suggestions?
thanks for watching my channel Carol please take a look at this video I can almost guarantee you a broken top gear is the problem. you can fix it though!! th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html
actually, appears to be a broken gear at the top of the vertical shaft... thanks again for your videos
@@carolward2536 certainly and good luck with the gear
I have a model 248 very similar to the one on this video. I have done what you did in the video, however, the bottom (the bobbin) is not turning when I turn the hand wheel. I can manual turn the belts by hand under the machine but neither the foot pedal or hand wheel is engaging it. Help.
I've never worked on this model, but looking online at pictures online and a parts manual I think I have bad news and good news for you. The bad; I believe the top gear on the vertical shaft has failed. That gear meshes with a gear on the main arm shaft and the vertical gear/shaft is what powers the hook to rotate. When the gear fails the timing belt, and therefore the hook, will not rotate. The needle bar will go up and down like crazy, but the hook and probably the feed dog won't move. The Good; You can buy a new gear for under $10 and I have a video (25K views now) that may help you remove and replace the gear. It's on a model 457 which is also in a group of machines that are known to have this failing gear and has mechanics similar to your model. You can see by the number of views how common this problem is for machines of that time period. Here is the gear change video if you want to see what I am talking about. Peek inside the machine and see if you have a broken gear:
th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html This is where I'd buy the gear; A trusted seller here in the USA that I have used for years: www.ebay.com/itm/SINGER-TOP-VERTICAL-GEAR-242-247-248-252-257-259-267-353-354-6100-7100/291974827596?hash=item43fb0e4e4c:g:HmEAAOSwDFBaDKnI You can buy the gear from other sellers, just be sure it is made for your model. Rarely, the old gear is riveted onto the shaft and is difficult to remove before lowering the shaft and pulling the gear from the front or side of the machine as shown in my movie. If my video does not cover the procedure on your exact model, you can buy a downloadable copy of the Singer Service Manual for it which usually contains instructions with diagrams of replacing that gear and almost every part on the machine. You can buy it here for $8.99: manualsoncd.com/product/singer-240-series-sewing-machine-service-manual/ So, for less than $20 you should be able to get the machine working again if that's all that is wrong with it. If f I am wrong and that gear is not the cause of your problem please let me know. Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 thank you for your quick response. I will look into the links and see if I can troubleshoot further. Thank you again for all your assistance.
@@ripsidermovsesian13 Yes, of course, and good luck.
Hello I have a question now just found my problem with my machine 😢 can you tell me what part it is ? It's part of the top looks like that my problem not the tension
can you be more clear about the part? I don't know which of the 100 parts you are asking about. Here are all my 413 videos: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKVlkxPT9FMTdvUUGj8Ydf8.html one of the videos is a tour of the machine: th-cam.com/video/ULaBoDecxAU/w-d-xo.html you can also download a free copy of the instruction manual form Singer Support: www.singer.com/search/support?title=413 If you can point out or define the part you are asking about left me know and I'll give you a part number.
So I found a video the part I need is the vertical top shadt gear it broke that's what the part is .I appreciate you videos I got this machine free and used it once until this happened and couldn't figure it out .
@@natashashadden567 Yes, the top gear of the vertical shaft. I've used this gear a dozen times: www.ebay.com/itm/202777631971?epid=665814990&hash=item2f367d1ce3:g:QGcAAOSwMe1deuVX
Bob has a good video for replacement, maybe that's what you saw? th-cam.com/video/63LXYiIVuoM/w-d-xo.html
IMO, avoid the black gear some sell.
Any chance you can help me identify (and resource) a part that I discovered is broken on my machine I just got while checking the timing? I realized the bobbin hook wasn’t spinning at all, popped the bottom cover off to investigate and a plastic gear fell out. I haven’t the slightest clue where to source a new one.
Since you comment on this video that is about a SInger Model 413, I'll assume that is the model you own.
The only plastic gear I'm aware of is at the top of the vertical shaft. That shaft tuns the pulley on the right side of the bottom ofo the machine, which rotates the timing belt, and the pulley on the left that rotates the hook. So, if the hook is not rotating it would follow that is the gear, or gears parts, you found. Model 413 is in a group of SInger machines know to have a failure of that gear after 30 to 40 years of service. It is so common in fact, that several online sellers have the new gear for under $10. The part number of the gear is 155819 and you can search for it. As an example, here is but one of the many sellers I mean: www.ebay.com/itm/Replacement-Top-Vertical-Gear-Fits-Singer-413-416-418-457-466-476-477-478-518-/361467199502?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c1#viTabs_0
If you need some information about replacing the gear and retiming the hook I have a video about it. I demonstrate on a model 457, which is similar to your 413 and can help you understand what is required. Here is a link to my video: th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html
Haha, I figured it out and you already have a video covering how to replace it. Thanks for all the helpful videos!
@@chrismontgomery8820 Good luck and happy sewing.
Andy,
Yes, it’s a 413. I got the gear issue all fixed, but now I have another issue. Is there a good way to lubricate the crank shaft (i.e. the rod that the hand wheel turns)? I cleaned a lot of rust/gunk off both the presser foot bar and the needle bar, and I’m assuming that the crank may also have some because I feel like there is a tiny bit of binding when I turn the hand crank. When I plugged it in after replacing the gear and tried to run the presser foot, the motor was turning freely,, but wasn’t turning the crank (indicating the belt was a tad too loose). I moved into adjusting the tension on the belt, but if I tighten it even a tiny bit, it restricts the motor, and if I loosen enough that motor sounds good, it’s not turning the crank hardly at all.
@@chrismontgomery8820 Here is a video about cleaning the worm and cam stack gears then applying new grease on a different model to give you some ideas. th-cam.com/video/_SuIiVok64k/w-d-xo.html You can also buy the Service Manual for models 416/418 which is what most of us use for working on the 413 model. manualsoncd.com/product/singer-416-418-sewing-machine-service-manual/ I'll just recommend that the machine be fully lubricated as shown in the Instruction Manual: www.singer.com/search/support?title=413 (I also have an oiling video: th-cam.com/video/XrNh_iaqDMM/w-d-xo.html) When I have had binding after gear replacement I have found a few causes. The new gear mesh is too tight with the vertical gear on the horizontal shaft. I did not install the new gear with the screw on the flat spot and the gear turns out-of-round on the shaft. The gear is taller than the original gear making the mesh too tight. ( a few viewers have reported this. The common fix is grinding down the bottom of the metal base on the new gear). Tiny pieces of the old gear stuck in the teeth of the vertical gear. The Other common binding locations on the machine are the horizontal arm shaft, the take-up lever system, the vibrating bracket. The service manual has a section for adjusting the play between the worm gear and the cam stack gear.
First...thank you for this tutorial. I am trying to save this precious machine my mom gave to me. First thing I noticed watching this video was that the bobbin wasn't moving when I opened the plate and turned the wheel. When I removed the bottom cover, following your directions in this video to check if timing was off, I noticed a broken piece which appears to be from a gear. I think my bobbin gear is broken. I read though the thread of comments and believe this is my issue. I can not afford the service cost and would really like to DIY repair if the process is not to difficult. Are you able to direct me on how to find where this broken piece may have come from and how to replace it? Thank you in advance.
The Singer 413 is the exact machine I have and why I was so excited to finally see a machine like mine.
Thank you for saving your machine. Family machines are the best to own. Great personal value. You can repair this (hundreds have done it, maybe 20 in the last 6 weeks have asked how) You don't really have a bobbin "gear", just the pulley on the hook shaft. What is broken on your machine is the top gear on the vertical shaft that meshes with a gear on the main arm shaft up top. It is a plastic gear and of an age that it has dried out and crumbled/cracked/chipped off, etc. This is a known problem on about a dozen singer models from that decade. The new gear costs about $10 and I have a video you can use for step-by-step replacement. I made the video with model 457 which is similar and people have been using it to change gears on a few models. If your machine is very different we can still find a way to change the gear if you are determined. Here is the video: th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html
It's a long video so play it at 2 times speed if you like. I tried to make it for everyone, not just mechanics. Good luck, and stay in touch. You can do it!
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you for the prompt reply. I'm about to view the video to determine if I can do this. Time to be the little engine...I think can, I think I can, I think I can. Will send an update. God bless and be safe :-)
@@janicebillingtonbarnes6388 I know you can, I know you can, Thanks the blessings and you too!
I have a Singer 6233 model and I wanted to adjust the needle height. It appears those markings that you are referencing don't exist on this model. Any advice for this model?
I think your model has a Vibrating Bracket the needle bar sits in to swing it for ZigZag sewing. Sometimes the timing marks are up high on the needle bar and use a bushing of the VB to set height/timing. I've never worked on a 6233 (too new) but you can buy a copy of the Service and Parts Manual for $9.00 and download it in PDF format. It will have timing instructions (and all the other parts adjust/remove/replace too. manualsoncd.com/product/singer-6233-sewing-machine-service-parts-manual/
It's a small price for a lot of information about your machine. Thanks for watching my channel and good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks for the advice. I did purchase the manual as advised and will have to dust off my micrometer. There aren't any markings or anything to go by for this model in the manual - only measurements.
thanks for sharing that!
I want to change screws to Allen, what is the thread pitch?
Beats me! Maybe this will help. Parts diagrams are available on line for many of the Singer machines. www.singersewinginfo.co.uk/screw_threads
Help pls...need to adjust timing of Singer model 263. Thanks
I have not worked or seen that model 263. I was able to find an instruction manual: www.singer.com/sites/default/files/product_manual/SINGER%20263_563_878_968%20and%203103%20Sewing%20Machines.pdf
Also a parts guide: parts.singerco.com/CPpartCharts/3_39999/3100_SERIES.pdf
No one I know has a Service Manual though. Looking at the instruction and parts manuals it looks like the mechanical system is similar to this model 413 and also model 347. th-cam.com/video/dW6haHu4-hU/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/users/edit?video_id=w9KSRe6zcyo&video_referrer=watch
That is as close as I can get. Most Singer machines are the same regardless of parts. Timing is correct when the needle bar is set to the lower timing mark the point of the needle should be at the hook point. Either it is a belt and pulley like the 347 or 413 or it is geared and you move the hook shaft. That's all I have, Tess. Good Luck.
Hi Andy! Thank you so much for these amazing videos! I'm wondering if I could ask a question. I've been trying to oil and clean a Zig-Zag Model 413 and it seemed to be working well until it came to sew. Everything in the top looks like it's working well, except I couldn't get the bobbin thread through the centre hole. The needle would not pick up the bobbin thread at all. When I got it through the centre hole by taking off the bobbin plate (with the 5, 3-4-5-6 numbers) and tried to sew, the needle went through but nothing happened. I took off the bobbin plate again to oil things, as well as the reverse-L shaped metal bracket that fits with the bobbin case, and it looks like the race (the circular plastic piece underneath the black plastic bobbin case?) isn't rotating or moving at all. I oiled it, and I've managed to make it move slowly once or twice, but never at regular sewing speed or consistently. Any wisdom on how I can make it work? Thank you so much! Your videos have already been so helpful.
Hi, Jordana. I've got bad news and good news for you. The bad news is that the top gear of the vertical shaft (plastic) has failed. Probably the teeth are/have chipped off. The symptoms you describe are the classic tells of this.You are not alone. Thousands of Singer models from the time have this problem. Now the good news! For $10 and some labor you can fix it and make it like new again. I have a video that you can follow along and remove the old gear and replace it, then reset the timing back to normal and be sewing along just fine. Here is the video: th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html The Gear is SInger Part #155819
Example: www.sewingpartsonline.com/vertical-top-shaft-gear-singer-155819.aspx There are many sellers of this gear so feel free to shop around for price. Try to find a white gear if possible. IMO they are better quality and last longer.
Remember, no oil or grease on your new gear. Bad for it. I'm glad you found my channel and asked about your problem, and I hope you will return in the future.
I have few more videos of your model th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKVlkxPT9FMTdvUUGj8Ydf8.html
Best of luck, Jordana, and take care.
@@andytubesewing1953 thank you SO much!! I really appreciate your response, and I'll update you when I fix it!
@@jordanaweiss8423 You can do it, Jordana. Yes, if you have time then let me know when it is finished. It is nice for other viewers to see that people are able to do this repair and it gives them confidence that they can do it too! Good Luck.
Hello Andy,
I recently picked up a Singer 648 off the side of the road. I've been teaching myself and my daughter how to sew on it, and it's been an amazing learner machine what with touchless bobbin winding and all. Things were going great until the vertical shaft upper timing gear stripped. My local repair shop had the gear in stock, and gave me a 30 second rundown on how to get it out and time the machine. I've replaced the gear, and with the help of your excellent video I've timed it so it works again like a charm. Only thing is, it seems a little noisier and the whole machine seems a bit tighter. Could this be the new gear seating against the old? Have I somehow messed up gear preloads and don't have enough lash? Any ideas?
Regardless, thanks so much for this video. My daughter and I have fallen in love with the machine, but it certainly falls into the 'not worth fixing' category if one is paying shop rates. She lives on!
The machine rescue of 2019! Congratulations and thank you. The original part no. for the gear is 163987 and Singer later used part no. 163328 as a replacement. If the shop gave you a gear with one of those part no.s you have the correct gear. There really isn't a gear "preload" that I'm aware of, but usually, gears should be gently pushed together completely during the install and the metal base of the gear, especially on the lower end of that shaft, should not touch or ride on the bearing housing. Our tendency is to push up on the shaft and maybe force a little too hard of a mesh while we tighten the set screw. The new gear you installed is not meant to be greased, but I'm wondering if the broken gear did have oil/grease on it. I'm asking because the last two machines I help viewers with who had a similar noise/roughness it turned out to be small crumbled pieces of the old gear has stuck in the teeth of the metal gear on the arm shaft and when the new gear was installed they ended up stuck between the gears. That throws of the mesh quite a bit of course, right? So the first thing I would go is to check that the new gear and the metal gear it meshes with are clean and free of any plastic bits from the old, broken off gear teeth. Maybe a toothbrush, with alcohol if needed, can fit in there and scrub as the handwheel turns slowly by hand.
I would take a very close look at that before I changed any more adjustments. OH, the meshing and gear base touching bearing housing goes for the vertical hook drive shaft on the bottom also. Usually, you can tell if they are rubbing as you get that metal-on-metal humming sound. I only have made one video of changing that top gear on the vertical shaft. On a different model that has a pulley on the bottom, but the whole idea is universal to most model numbers: th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html
Thanks again for saving a vintage machine and happy new year 2020
Hi Andy, I sure appreciate you taking the time to reply! I did check that the metal portion of the gear and the bushing support were not touching on the lowers (which all had to come out to get the vertical shaft out), but I haven't checked the vertical. Will do. Also, the whole machine has been greased and oiled, so when I can get it on a decent work surface other than my kitchen table I'll go over it long and hard with the alcohol - it's a mess in there and the lower gears are getting soft too. Just wanted to make sure I could pull off the repair before getting crazy with a whole new gear set.
The original upper vertical gear was secured with a roll pin through the gear base and the shaft. (which was a bear to remove!) The replacement gear features a set screw. Could this be an updated design, or do you think I have the wrong gear? I made sure the set screw aligned with the roll pin hole in the shaft to be on the safe side, and in all other ways the gear appeared identical, but of course now that's in my head as a 'hmm.'
The machine is working well now but is a bit stiff off the start. I wish I could try a few other machines of similar vintage to see how far off normal mine is.
I'll start with cleaning. Do you have a video on proper oiling procedure? Videos I've found lack nuance.
Thanks so much again, and happy new year to you and yours as well!
@@markv3559 You impress the he...er, HECK out of me removing the roll pin and gear. Nicely done. I don't really care for the Touch & Sew models with their plastic gears and Auto-Reel or wind in place bobbins. Just my opinion. I did not do an oiling video for a T&S machine but have done a dozen others. Here is one on a model 503A showing full lubrication after washing the machine with Krud Kutter, just don't you put any grease or oil on any gear on your 648. th-cam.com/video/zo3c9CTgVGg/w-d-xo.html Pages 63 thru 68 of the original Instruction Manual show all the lube points of your machine. If you'd like a free copy it is available from Singer at this link (PDF Format, 80 pages, 96MB) www.singer.com/sites/default/files/outdated_product/a6172931362178d23f294bac5f8cd24f48798c80_0.pdf
You can also go to Terry's TANDTREPAIR and download some free instructions he has for T&S Models, like working on the tension unit and adjusting the tricky little BW parts and other items. He also sells Vintage Singer parts, supplies, and guides, both factory and ones he wrote. He was a lead tech for Singer in the Decade the T&S machines came out and knows more than anyone I've met about those models. He gives Andy Tube viewers 20% off anything they buy before midnight tonite (he had the coupon for all of 2019) USE COUPON CODE andy-h-yt at checkout. site.tandtrepair.com/600TandSstuff.html
I don't know how much work you want to do on the machine, but cleaning and oiling it usually fixes a good 80 to 90% of the problems besides damaged or missing parts. If you find it hard starting it can be lack of oil, especially in those bushing/bearings for the shafts, and it cal also be binding from oil lacking and dirt and dried up old oil (hence the cleaning) I have several cleaning videos, but here is a playlist of a restoration that you can skim through the titles to see if anything looks interesting to you. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJxbOOMKQPvmeTRqi0dhGa5.html
Another thing you may (probably) need to look at is the foot controller. Your machine is 50 years old and chances are the foot controller has never been serviced. Countless times I have helped people who wrote to me about a slow, hesitating, buzzing motor and it has turned out to be the foot controller. Here is a series on restoring a clamshell-style controller; th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKItPLWcK24FBoMdHK8vTXNi.html
If you do feel it's a motor issue after cleaning the body and mechanics then here is a series for restoring the PA style of motor that's in your model: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJSu0T9oeaheTZsrUe91kkZ.html
So you can go as far as you like in working on your T&S it's basically up to you. Anyone that can change out that top gear on the vertical shaft can do any other mechanical adjustment on a sewing machine. I have about 500 videos on my playlist page sorted by the model number that I posted to help people work on, fix, clean, restore vintage Singer Machines: th-cam.com/channels/USPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4w.htmlplaylists?view_as=public
I'll just thank you again for saving that T&S and giving it a chance to create, sew and craft again as it was made to do,
I followed this step by step on my Singer Merrit 2404. It also uses a timing belt. But on the next downward movement of the needle, it touches another part of the bobbin case holder. Everything was tightened as per the video.
What may cause this?
The top gear has been changed previously, and it has been in use since then. Only the reverse button was just not bringing the desired result.
But a few days ago, it just made some rough sounds and since then the needle keeps touching the bobbin case holder even after setting
I wish I could share the photos here. 🙂🙂. After reading through some of the comments on this video, and being thrown of the scent by
1.The fact that the machine was moving more or less smoothly;
2. The focus on the top gear.
I decided to still check the gear area(even leaving my lunch halfway, wifey had a good laugh) and lo and behold, the bottom gear was cracked! This has to be removed and replaced. I will check your list of videos, hopefully I will see one that could help.
Thanks so much.
I'm not familiar with model 2404 and had to look it up. I found the free instruction manual at Singer on this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=2404
After looking at page 77 of that manual and seeing the views of the top and bottom of the machine I don't know what you mean by "bottom gear". The pictures show a mechanical system very similar to the model 413 in this video that you commented on. The know problem with this type of machine is the plastic gear on top of the verticle shaft. If it has not broken yet it soon will. When the gear breaks, cracks, looses teeth, it is impossible to set or keep the timing on it. You can set the timing perfectly but as soon as the defective gear starts rotating again the timing goes out and you get needle strikes. When the gear breaks off then the hook does not even rotate. I do have a video of replacing that top gear on the verticle shaft. I see it now has 32K+ views which tells us what a common problem this is on about a 10 dozen models from that decade. There are different gear part numbers depending on the model of machine. Here is the video: th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html You see the 457 model has rather easy access to the gear, but some models have less access to it. people have told me of different ways they have had to get access to the gear, like removing the stitch control dials and the motor on some models. I've never worked on a 2404 so can't advise you about that. With everyone trying to sew masks on an old machine and finding the broken gears, so well know sellers are out of stock of that gear right now (5-8-2-20) www.sewingpartsonline.com/vertical-top-shaft-gear-singer-353273-002.aspx some USA eBay sellers have the gear, but without screws: www.ebay.com/itm/New-Upper-Vertical-Shaft-Gear-353273-002-fits-SINGER-1802-1803-1812-1852-1853-/321517327403 and some sellers on ebay are selling direct from China: www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Vertical+Top+Shaft+Gear+for+Singer+%23353273-002&_sacat=0 with up to 6 weeks shipping time! When you see all the model numbers that gear works on it gives you an idea of the thousands of machines that have the gear and potentially the broken gear problem. If you watch my gear video it will give you an idea of what to look for and where the gear is. I hope I have been helpful and not sending you in a wrong direction, but your description of the problem is one I have heard 200 times since March, and it usually turns out to be that gears causing it. Good Luck.
see reply to your 3rd comment please.
see reply to your 3rd comment please
What do I do when the timing wheel, the thing under the bobbin won't turn
That part is called the hook. If it is not turning that usually means the timing belt and pulleys on the bottom of the machine are not turning either. That is a sign of a broken plastic gear on top of the vertical shaft has broken. It is a very common problem on models of that decade that are now 40+ years old. You can buy a new gear for about $10 and replace it yourself. I made a step-by-step video tutorial for that: th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html Some viewers have had some difficulty with a couple of the models, including the model 413. You can watch the video and see what you think about replacing it. If you run into a problem you may want to buy this guide that Terry Fielding wrote about how to do it. store.tandtrepair.com/400stvgg.html My video was made on a model 457 so you can compare it to your 413. If you do buy the guide, be sure to use my coupon at check out for 20% off. You download it and it is a PDF. Coupon is andy-h-yt
Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
Bravo 👍👍👍
Merci Radia.
Very nice sir I got singer and tht one whn I sew the whole bobbin case comesout please please explain wht cn I do thnks alots
What is the Model Number of your machine?
@@andytubesewing1953 Singer 911 but not sure its something 9
There are almost 50 models that start with the number 9. Here is a page showing how to find the model number:www.singer.com/find-your-model
There are several different styles of bobbin case latch, cover, positioning springs, brackets, and holders. If you can give me a model number I can help you.
Hi Mr Andy tube, can I use this method with singer 241 C, thank you.
I've never worked on the 240 series of machines. It has the vertical shaft, gear, and pulley system from what I can see in the parts manual. I think the problem would be accessing the gear from the front of the machine. I do not know if there is any kind of access port or space to pull out/put back in the top gear. Some models similar in looks to it must have the horizontal arm shaft and connect parts removed so the gear/shaft can be removed OUT THE TOP of the machine instead of the front as in my video. Terry Fielding has a guide he made for the 250 models (similar to 240) about how to replace the top gear, so that means it can be done I'd guess. You can ask him if his guide works for the 240 models. The guide is $9.50 but he will give you 20% off using my coupon of andy-h-yt so the price for you would be $7.60 It is on his website here: site.tandtrepair.com/Fashion_Mate.html
Good Luck.
Andy Tube thank you for your reply.
@@mohamedsharaf8593 sure, no worries and good luck.
It will i just did mine the difference wasnit used a regular screwdriver and has another plate for thread clearance,
My hook and finger doesn't move when I see or turn the needle. How do I fix that?
Model 413? I'm reading your question as the hook does not rotate when the needle bar goes up and down. If I'm getting that correctly I'm afraid the top gear on the vertical shaft of your machine has broken. That vertical shaft is how mechanical power goes from the main arm shaft down to the timing belt to turn the hook. The 413 is one of a group of models that are internationally know to have this plastic gear problem. Maybe I'm wrong and you just have a bad timing belt or something, but 95% of the time I get this question it is a bad gear. If so, for $10 you can buy a new gear, and follow my video to replace it and in a couple of hours you can be back in business usually. th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html
If I have totally missed he point of your question I apologize and please try me again.
Good Luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you
Sir can you do it on a brother brand sewing machine too please???
Sorry, I o not know anything about Brother sewing machines. Timing is universal that as the needle is on the way back up the hook point is behind the needle to catch the thread and the hook point is about 1/16 inch above the eye of the needle. This is true of all sewing machines that have a single needle system regardless of make or model.
Maybe by wearing a battery LED "headband lamp" will help when filming. I now use one when quilting instead of 5 lamps overhead. Thanks HarborFreight.
thank you very much Kay I do have a couple of headlamps that I use sometimes while working but I found they don't they don't work well with the video so I usually don't wear them while filming. by the way how did you like the video?
hmm thought this might be my issue but it appears thats not the case. When i rotate the wheel so the thread uptake arm is at its peak the center refuses to rotate, its not locked up, it just hits something in the machine and refused to complete the rotation.. :(
You have this model 413? So when you say "the center refused to rotate" are you talking about the hook that surround the bobbin case and bobbin? I'm asking b/c this model is one of a handful of models that is known to have a plastic gear on the top of the vertical shaft. That shaft goes from under the main upper arm shaft down to the bottom pulley on the right side. It powers the timing belt that goes to the pulley on the left that rotates the hook so the hook point can catch the needle thread, wrap it around the bobbin thread and make a stitch. That plastic gear is known to fail at its age. It gets brittle and the teeth can start chipping of and the gear can even crack in half. If the gear is defective the arm/handwheel sometimes turns so far and then gets stuck. I don't know if that is your problem, but it very well may be. I made a video about how to replace the gear with a new $10 gear. It's a long video but maybe you can skip around and view it at 2x speed and see the gear I'm talking about and then peek down into your machine with a flashlight and see what your gear looks like. If it's broken then that is most likely the problem, but even if it is not the exact cause you still need to replace it if you want the machine to work properly. Here is the video:th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html If you find the gear is OK then we can talk about other causes and I can try to get more info. Good Luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 its an issue in the body ... sounds like bronke gear ! Uggghhh
Yep. My video for that now has 46K views and that tells us how common that broken gear is. Too sad b/c they are very nice models,strong & versatile. New gear and back to sewing for 30 years.
The bobbin "bed" on my Singer 466 does not move at all! Why would this be, please? Is there a pulley or something that is missing (?)
(The open base looks just like your does here, has the same pulley configuration but does not move anything when I pull on i5... Should it move when I pull it? If not does this old machine just need cleaning/oiling (?)
(Not my machine hence all these questions, thank you so MUCH)
When I power it up NOTHING moves except the pressure foot gearing, the pulley stays stock still...
The pulley and all the internal base assemblage STUFF looks perfectly clean and dry...Just immovable like a ROCK
you asked why the bobbin "bed" does not move. I think you mean the hook. The chances are high that the top gear of the vertical shaft is damaged/broken/jammed. That gear is plastic and transfers power from the horizontal arm shaft (main) down to the pulley on the right to turn the timing belt to turn the pulley on the left to turn the hook. The bobbin case sits on the hook race and holds the bobbin. If I'm correct then the gear must be replaced. It costs about $10 and takes a couple of hours. Explicit step-by-step instructions are in my gear replacement video you can find here: th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html
You can skip around through this video and see what gear I'm talking about (under the top arm cover) and shine a flashlight down on it and see if it's there in good condition, or busted up and needs replacement. Your machine is one of a handful of model numbers that are internationally known to have this gear problem so do not feel alone. I posted the video about 7 months ago and it has 11,000+ views. Good Luck, and if that is NOT the problem let me know.
@@andytubesewing1953 THANK YOU!! Yes, NOTHING moves at all underneath to make the bobbin twist, the hook as you say, but the needle goes up and down just fine. I will watch your link and follow the instructions. THANK YOU AGAIN!
Can I do the same in my 3342 model,Andy Tube?
Model 3342 is from 2016 and still for sale on the SInger website. That's about 45 years newer than the machines I work on. I can't get a parts list or service manual for it. I have no idea if the mechanical parts are similar enough to the model in this video that it would apply to setting the timing. Most modern machines like model 3342 have many plastic parts. I do not know if it has a timing belt with pulleys or timing marks on the needle bar. If you can open the covers and see the same/similar parts then it probably times in the same way.
@@andytubesewing1953 thanks a lot! I like your video a lot. I'm working on it now .
@@liezlsokol2265 Best of luck then.
Do you happend to have anything on adler189
Sorry, Marco, only Singer machines on this channel.
thank you very much for the interesting videos, I watch you from Morocco I learned a lot. i have a 418 singer. it cuts the thread while sewing, could you help me please.
So many possible causes for that. Here are a few; wrong type needle, needle not inserted completely into the needle clamp by user, or dirt inside needle clamp, needle threaded backwards (wrong direction) needle thread path wrong or incomplete. Dirty tension unit or mis-adjusted tension unit th-cam.com/video/PSCY72bJ3x8/w-d-xo.html
wrong class of bobbin used (uses class 66 bobbin) bobbin wound too tight, bobbin inserted into bobbin case the wrong way, bobbin tension incorrect th-cam.com/video/HT5XZ5eYYEQ/w-d-xo.html
burr (scratch) on bobbin case is catching/cutting thread, burr on hook/hook point, incorrect thread clearance catching/pinching thread th-cam.com/video/N9aWiTZi4w4/w-d-xo.html
Loss of/incorrect needle to hook timing as in the above video.
@@andytubesewing1953
I'm glad you answered me so quickly, all checks were done, but the problem is still there thank you very much for your help.
@@laymad9273 Well, if you checked everything I mentioned above as possible problems, and they all checked OK then I don't have any other ideas why your thread is getting cut. Sorry.
@@andytubesewing1953
thank's a lot for your help, you're so professionnel. i'll try cheking again another day.
I forgot to ask. When you say it cuts the thread, iis it a clean cut like with a scissor, or is the thread frayed or shredded?
I have really enjoyed looking at your videos. I have a 413 that the hook pully is not turning. Would I need to undo the set screw and make sure the timing is correct. When I looked at the needle and the hook point, I could not see anything was in the right place.
Hi, Carmen. Are you sitting down? I believe you have a defective platic gear on the top of the vertical shaft. Whew! There, I said it. If the hook pulley is not turning that means the drive puller a few inches to the right is not turning. It is the vertical shaft coming down from the top that makes the drive pulley, belt and hook turn. WHen the gear crack, breaks or strips on top then you get no power below. So, you can buy a new gear for about $10, and I made a video about changing that gear. It has 32K+ views now and that shows how common this problem is. You can watch the video and see what I'm talking about. I take you step-by-step through the repair and then the re-timing of the hook and needle. You can do it, Carmen.😄👍✨ Here is the link to the video: th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html
Good Luck.
I'm going to have to think long and hard about doing this myself. I had completely lubricated the machine and it sounded so smooth, then this. I was getting it ready to give away to a mother with 3 small children who wanted to learn to sew for her kids. I was also going to teach her to sew. I may take the top off and see if I can see damage. I do see rust on the bottom wheel under the hook pulley. Thought that was the problem. I'll try to let you know what happens.
Sure. It's a process. Once it s done the new gears can last for decades.Best of luck.
👍👍👍
😀
Thank you for the video! It help me fix the timing that I set improperly after replacing the top gear on the excellent 413 I found in a thrift store a few years ago. Thanks to th-cam.com/video/XrNh_iaqDMM/w-d-xo.html I gave it a proper oiling as well. Now I'm just hoping that cleaning the commutator and, at worst, maybe new brushes (thanks again to your videos) will solve the final issue: motor making a lot of noise and the machine refusing to start sewing at low speed.
It's a nice machine, and congrats for changing the gear out. Can you turn the handwheel normally? I ask b/c my first gear change I meshed the new gear to tightly. Think of the motor in model 413 (SN(K) OPEN) and the foot pedal (Clamshell Style) I found slow starting and groaning more often caused by the pedal than the motor. Just something to think about. Here is my Playlist for restoring the pedal back to factory working condition: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKItPLWcK24FBoMdHK8vTXNi.html I appreciate you watching my channel, Max, and that you saved the machine. Good luck.