Thanks for your video's Andy. Every time I tried laying my machine over on it's back the timing would move due to the weight of the cams. I finally used a piece of clear shipping/packing tape to hold the hand wheel in place by taping to the frame. Hope this helps someone else.
Your videos gave me the courage to buy a frozen 500A on ebay. Over time i have unfrozen, fixed the bobbin winder, and put the bobbin case/pieces back together again. Then realized the timing was a mess, fixed that! Learned how to put the loose bobbin cover on. Cleaned the whole thing with alcohol followed by a teflon oiling. Got the levers working to lift off dog feed cover. And i could go on and on. I did all this just by watching your videos. I owe you boucous of thank you's and $$. I feel like i know you and consider you a friend. I'm 73 and intend to spend a lot of time sewing. I saved this singer from being torn apart for parts because of you. No one, seriously, NO ONE explains the secrets of a vintage singer like you. Take care, my friend. I wish us both good health❤
Thank you for saving that machine 🙏💖 You have some fabulous sewing ahead of you and now you know much more about your machine. I admire your work b.c I know the effort it takes. You are the best, Diane. Happy sewing.
Here I am, again, Andy. I hope you are well. Thank you sooooo much for teaching us, it keeps these ol girls stitchin. I value these videos so much, I can always come back and refresh on the lessons you taught me. Bless you and yours.
Hey, thanks! Your comment really lifted my spirits this afternoon. Nice of you to leave it. This was one of my favorite videos to make and I'm shocked to see it now has 145K views! I'm honored that so many people have stopped by to see it. Bless you, too, and all you love.
These components look a lot like the ones on my 46-year-old Singer Fashion Mate 252. I am encouraged by these step-by-step instructions and took notes. If others can do it successfully, I'm willing to try.
Some components are similar, that's true. While the 503A in this video has a gear-driven hook, your model 252 has a belt-driven hook (timing belt) and the timing function is a little different. Here is a timing video for model 347 that has a similar timing belt set-up as your machine. I think it is a better video for you to go by while working on your 252. th-cam.com/video/dW6haHu4-hU/w-d-xo.html Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
I was guided to this from your other 600-something Singer Stylist model, which had a different timing belt system that did not depend on gears. Thank you so much for your thorough helpfulness. You have helped me give my Singer Stylist 518 new life.
Thank you for letting me know. I am happy you can keep sewing. I have some videos of the 513, a sister machine if you have other issues in the future. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLELksv_-MWE7tiAuzOgQj0.html Be safe and take care.
55 dislikes. Who in the world would listen and watch a guy tell them exactly how to fix their obsolete old machine and not like what they've watched. I guess I'll never understand that. Thanks Andy!
You are welcome Ralph, and thanks for the comment. Based on the emails I get I think many of the dislikes are due to my pace and delivery being slower than some folks like. I guess they don't know how to increase the playback speed. I don't worry about dislikes, I'm just happy if most people find my videos helpful. Thanks again, and take care.
I inherited a Singer 1802 recently and have been using it to finally learn to sew. I was having some issues with the bobbin thread catching. After a bit of googling I found your video. I went from knowing nothing about how the machine worked to fixing the timing within an hour. A few components were a little different, but your explanation of the mechanics made it possible for me to adapt the process to my machine.
Thank you for the comment, Michael. It was kind of you to take the time. I pinned it in the hope others might see it and be encouraged to watch even if they are searching for a solution to a different model.
Or at least I think that this was the intention of that instruction. Truth be told you could rotate it either direction while making the adjustment, it just might take a little more trial and error? Mechanical reasoning would dictate that you load up the system very slightly AGAINST the drive direction to get it just right. You can see that when you have the hook in the correct position and it is possible with your fingernail to rotate it past the needle just by taking up the clearances (lash) in the bevel drive system. I just bet you a person could take out all the lash in the system but it doesn't seem that it matters much.
Andy, Just wanted to let you know, you've given me a new machine. I downloaded the manual and have made adjustments, it sews perfectly. I've suffered a long time with the thread nests and am beyond grateful. Thank you again!
So very happy to hear this! Congratulations. Better to be sewing than fixing, right? You're a good DIY mechanic. Thanks for keeping that machine in use. Take care.
Thank you, Andy... I've got 2 machines that people have forced on me that don't sew well, and there's no one here but me to correct the situation... Fantastic!
I just followed your instructions and was finally able to fix my Athena 2000. I put new gears on it today. Thank you many times over for your tutorial on singer repairs. I subscribed to your channel because I have 4 Singers.
Thank you Andy! I always learn so much from your videos and then when I follow your very thorough instructions (I take notes!), I always am successful. I am going to try to check and repair the timing on a different machine and hope that this will be the fix I need to get my Kenmore 158.1803 running correctly.
Andy, Your videos and explanations are Sew very helpful and this one on how to set the timing is a very good example. I have stopped and viewed it many times as I went about correcting the timing on my Singer 401a. Keep up the good work, Andy, for it is truly appreciated by many of your viewers.
It's so nice of you to leave a comment about it. I'm always shocked by how many views this video gets. I guess my plan is working, haha. Help people with there vintage Singer machines and they will keep them working and out of landfills. Thanks for watching my channel. Take Care.
It surprised me also. I found It counterintuitive to go to the opposite end from the hook itself. There are a few slant needle models like this. Thanks for watching my channel.
Greeting Mr. Tupaz. Thanks for commenting. I'm very happy if I have helped you repair a machine. I appreciate that you took the time to comment. Can you share the model of your Singer Machine? I am curious about what you worked on. Salamat. Take care, friend.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I’ve got so many machines, I need to start fixing my own machines Your always explain things so well. It’s great for the beginners, like me.
Sure, you are welcome. I'm glad you found my channel, Mary. I sure get a lot of requests for timing videos, so I try and do one for each model I work on now. Hope you have time to stop by again. Take Care.
Estoy feliz de que hayas encontrado mi canal. El 404 es mi máquina favorita de puntadas rectas. Aquí hay listas de reproducción para ayudar con el modelo 404: MÁQUINA: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKIB4kvIHCfHYuyLMUp5A4UI.html MOTOR RÁPIDO: th-cam.com/video/pzq4tv8qn94/w-d-xo.html TODO EL MOTOR: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJSu0T9oeaheTZsrUe91kkZ.html EL PEDAL DEL PIE: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKL6ePPxLpmnWSzTyxPKTb71.html Gracias por tu amable comentario y mantente a salvo.
The gears on your machine are SO CLEAN and I am extremely jealous. Please tell us more on how to clean never-been-touched-up grimy gears. Also, thank you for helping me, an unworthy millennial, work on my 500A. Even if my stitch skipping issue is greater than just a timing hook, I am still forever grateful.
Hello, Emilie, and welcome to Andy Tube. Thank you for commenting. You are as worthy as anyone else who visits here and I'm happy you did. About half of my machines are sold to people in your age group. I'll give you some links here to my video playlists that apply to your model 500A. You may already be aware of them but I want to be sure. In this one, I'm working on Vicky, the model 503A and there are videos in it showing my cleaning methods of washing the machine in a shower (yes, shower), drying it, and lubrication afterward. The Krud Kutter is very good at getting that decades-old grime out of the machine. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX.html Another more recent playlist of Trouble, a model 401A shows how to work on and adjust all those parts inside your 500A as they both have the same mechanics. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html Deep cleaning a machine like this can eliminate many problems, but your Rocketeer has a reputation for skipping stitches, especially on knit fabrics. If it still does after you clean to your satisfaction I suggest you take a look at this free copy of the original Service Manual for your machine. sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf Pages 12, 14 & 16 seem to be the final adjustments to cure skipping if everything else looks normal (timing, replace a bent needle, etc) I also want to mention a free INstruction Manual is available from Singer if you need one. Everything about using your machine. www.singer.com/search/support?title=500 If I haven't scared you off yet, on my main playlist pages you can find instructions for rehabbing the motor and also the foot controller th-cam.com/channels/USPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4w.htmlplaylists?view_as=public One of the most rewarding procedures for the motor is to seat the brushes with a $10 diamond stone: th-cam.com/video/pzq4tv8qn94/w-d-xo.html Even if you don't get the machine sparkling clean, proper oiling, fixing the skips, and seating the brushes can make a work of difference. Best of luck, Emilie, and don't be a stranger to my channel. Take Care.
Thanks Andy for the information on the Singer SM. I have a 648 and it pretty much is the same machine as you have. I replaced the top plastic gear that has been plaguing these machines forever. I wish they stuck with the metallic gears , the 648 would have not broken down. Once again, CHEERS !
Welcome. Of all the parts to save money on by making them plastic, the gears were the worst choice. I have had a couple guys tell me they bought the metal gears for the horizontal and vertical shafts from an earlier T & S, like the 626, and replaced the plastic gears in their machine. It's a bit of work changing that horizontal arm gear, but they felt they would only need to do it once. Thanks for watching my channel.
Thank you Andy!! You do such a great job going through every step and explaining it, as well as, showing it. Fixed my problem, and so many others too!! You Rock-Thanks again & Take care Andy!!
Thank you Andy for helping me out with my 401a I like your videos they're very informative and accurate I'm not a mechanic but I like bringing back things from the dead
You're welcome, Tracy. "back from the dead", haha. Some of the machines seem that way th-cam.com/video/04AN-FW7DzA/w-d-xo.html I guess you saw my playlist for Trouble, my Singer Model 401A? th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html Thanks for saving the machines, and for watching my channel.🙏 Happy Salvation
@@redmonkeyTracyk I encourage you as I have many others, to post a video of it on your YT channel. You could give a tour with some info on how you did the work, etc. People would enjoy that and be encouraged to work on their own cabinet (or pay you to do theirs!! 😀) I started with a poorly recorded video showing a friend overseas about the mechanical parts to a Singer he was thinking of buying. That lousy video led to 600 more, 24K subscribers, and 4,000,000 views on my channel. You may enjoy it. Good luck and take care.
@@andytubesewing1953 I don't have a channel but I do have like one video up I don't know if I can figure out how to do the TH-cam thing I'll keep you posted thanks Andy
@@redmonkeyTracyk Where you posted that video in 2018 is your "channel". When you make an account that is your channel and you can post videos. You can click on your name above and it will take you to your channel right away. Just as you have to sign in to post comments you must be signed in to post videos too. You can even google about posting on youtube and the TH-cam folks have tutorials about it. No worries if you do or don't. Take care.
I have been watching all the videos on these machines.I have a Singer 500. I picked this machine up at Goodwill, and I am sure every little kid that walked by twist and turn every knob possible, I probably would have too given the chance and not within mothers eyesight. Brought it home cleaned, lubed and oil it. It was fairly clean, but not thoroughly clean and had not been used in many years. I first had issues with the tension, have learn the various threading patterns until I finally found one that worked and I got it running smoothly with a great looking stitch. Then while in my second hour of sewing, I stopped to change bobbins. After doing so the thread continued to brake. First at the needle, then the tension felt like it was getting took tight. I put in another bobbin, changed the needle, changed thread, cleaned the bobbin assembly, all of this many times over. I had to walk away from it over the holiday season and have just gotten back to trying to get it up and running again. This morning I noticed I have lent under the hook race, I have tried many things to get it out. Plus listening to the machines you show, this one while running slow sounds like the bobbin case is rattling a bit, but just at slow speed. Do you have a suggestion as how to remove the lent or a comment as to why the case sounds like it rattles? Thank you so much for your time, the many videos and comments have a wealth of knowledge involved. Again thank you.
Hi Rhonda. Congrats on your 500. A nice machine. There are a few recommendations I have for you about cleaning, thread breakage, bobbin case rattles and overall power. Too many to list here I think. On my "About" page I list my channel email address for questions like this that are more complex. It is andytube53@gmail.com. If you want to email me there I can reply with some things to try to solve your problems. I can also send documents about your machine. If you do email you may want to attach a picture of the lint in the "race" and any little video of what is happening. If you are not comfortable with that, then here is a list of some videos that may help. I don't know if you have seen them or not. Good Luck either way. th-cam.com/users/edit?o=U&video_id=Sn2XD4EILFM th-cam.com/users/edit?o=U&video_id=OqZZ-uhnAMY th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX.html th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKL6ePPxLpmnWSzTyxPKTb71.html
Thanks! This helped me fix timing issues on my Singer 560. It is a little different but the I was able to adapt the information to the design og the 560.
Thank you for this comprehensive lesson! A lot of great info here and now I understand what's going on. fyi, Instead of a piece of 2x4, I use a piece of a pool noodle and so far it has worked well without slipping.
Hi Andy, thanks for showing the step-by steps instructions to get the timing needles in line with the threading spool. I also have a Singer Heavy Duty Model 288 which I have been using for over 30 years and this is the first time I have the timing problem. I will let you know if this works with my machine 288. Looking forward to talk to you soon.
Your model 288 has a different hook drive system than the machine in my video. Instead of gears, it uses a timing belt and pulley system. It is actually easier to time your 288 than my 503. Here is a video showing how to time a belt/pulley hook system; th-cam.com/video/pANycD90wQg/w-d-xo.html Good luck, and thank you for watching my channel.
Hi Andy...couldn't you loosen the set screws on the gear at the bottom of the hook shaft and then just rotate the hook ring assemble until the hook tip is aligned with the needle? This way the horizonal shaft doesn't have to move ,which will keep the needle in position.
It seems counterintuitive to set the timing as in my video. I get that, and some machines with timing belts you can do as you describe. Give it a try and see, but also take a look at page 15 of the Original Service Manual for Models 5001/503A which you can download FREE from the Sewing Dude at this link: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf Thanks for watching my channel and take care.
This is handy! It would not have occurred to me that loosening the gear will change how it meshes! Thank you for the tips on what to look for to do it correctly!
Welcome :) It is rare that the timing gets off on a machine like this with metal gears. I could tell the set screws on the gear had been worked on. I'm guessing someone thought they had a timing issue and ended up really having one after trying to adjust it. Fortunately, it is easy to re-set the timing.
Thanx Andy. This video helps with the understanding of components and its function. I have a front loading bobbin Empisal Pacesetter 10 and could use this logic to set my hook placement even though the gearing systems are different.
Thank you so much for this video! I have a 500A Rocketeer. Not only did it solve my problem but it also fixed my zigzag which hasn't worked since I got the machine. Also, I didn't have any WD40 but plain white vinegar loosened my screw!
Wow thank you I will try all of that tomorrow and watch those videos that you told me about and I will do my best and I will get back to you thank you so much!
Thank you very very much Andy. Your tutorials are very useful, especially, with my Singer 248. You’ve saved it from being thrown away and it’s working well now. 😁👍 Keep up your good work!
I'm very happy to hear that. Thank you for sharing. It is a very versatile machine from 1977. If you like, here are some documents to help you keep it running smoothly. Instruction manual: www.singerco.com/uploads/download/a79240489cb7c4349c6a33b61f0e5b92e3e0384c.pdf Parts diagram and list: parts.singerco.com/CPpartCharts/2_2999/242_247_248.pdf
Thank you for explaining a detail that has eluded me for years. I have a 503a which had timing problems when I got it. But not knowing anything about the needle height setting I reasoned about how it should be able to work and after some adjustments on the wrong end of the hook gear train I managed to get it to work pretty good, not great. I also found many loose set screws in the gears and shafts. So I'll have to do a check up on the whole unit.
My pleasure, Paul. Your experience is very familiar to me and what I did the first Model 404 timing issue I had. Nice to know the recommended method now. When set screws are loose it can cause the gear to move on the shaft too, which can give you too much play in the gear/shaft. If you wish to, you can follow this link and download a free copy of the original Singer Service Manual for your machine >> sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf It is in PDF format and 46 pages of adjustments and remove/replace methods for the 500A and 503A Class of machines. Thanks for the comment, Paul.
Hello, FYI I follow your 503A videos as a guide to fix series 600 Touch and Sew machines (600E and 628) and the methods of adjustment and repair apply to these machines also! Thanks for the detailed information.
I'm glad you found the videos, Debora. I pinned your comment to the top in case other Touch & Sew model owners stop by here. Thanks for sharing this info on my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Your pin confirmed I was at the right video. I got my 50 year old 626 running. Thank you. FYI I was having heck of a time putting in the bobbin case and finally realized that the gear under the bobbin winder driver was out of alignment. Once I fix that I was able to set the timing, etc. Thank you
It's easy now to figure out how to time any of them you just move a gear on a shaft or you move a lever on a gear or whatever you're moving something on something to get it to be right thanks for all your videos I can do it without looking now
Andy, I restored my 401a, but I really didn’t like the way it was stitching. So I decided to go back and check some of your fine tuning videos for the stitch quality. I noticed that I had not checked the Check stop on the tension knob. However, the tension on the knob is perfect. Also, I didn’t check the timing. Duh! Well I’m on the yellow brick road again to fix my 401A.
Hi, Dee. Sure, you can always check the timing to see if it is off. If the timing is off it usually means you will have skipped stitches, so if that is your problem you are on the correct path. If it is more a quality problem or malformed stitches it can be a few different things. Even a slightly crooked presser foot can create problems. See page 164 of the service manual for testing that. A couple of times I have found the lifters and followers around the cam stack were so dirty or out of adjustment that the follower was riding on two discs at the same time, Man was that some weird stitching. I cover a lot of the cleaning and adjusting in my "trouble" playlist so maybe just take a look at the video titles and see if you think something rings a bell or hints at your problem. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html I know you are a patient and methodical troubleshooter and hope you find a fix soon. Take care.
Thanks Andy, for another helpful video. I’m glad to hear that I can check the timing on my 401A using this procedure. I’ll have to watch this video a few more times to build up my confidence for working with the. stop screws that you said were easily stripped. Thanks again.
Sure Dorothy, welcome. Luckily machines with metal gears don't go out of timing as often as ones with belts and pulleys. I always use penetrating oil on the screws before trying to remove them. Sometimes I have to apply heat too, like a hair dryer. Using a hollow ground screw driver that fits the screw very well makes it much less likely of strippig the screw. HopeFully your timing is ok. If not just take your time and you can do it. Thank you for commenting.
Thank you for this video, I bought a 503A in March and the thread gets stuck in the bobbin, and got worse. I followed your video to the tee and so far so good. I love this machine but it is my first vintage.. So I am learning how to use it a little at a time, and maintain through your video s, thankx
Thank you SO MUCH for this video, it’s amazing! I’ve watched so many videos on how to fix timing, and they are always missing steps. For example, explaining the timing marks is helpful since as a beginner I never knew there was such a thing! The way you zoomed in so that we could see all of the fine details was so helpful! The bad news is, I was almost done and tightening my gears back up when by old gear broke. :-(. So I saved your video because I’ll have to start all over again when my new set of gears comes in. :-)
Ouch. Sorry about your gear, but at least you have a handle on replacing it. Maybe it is better it happened now rather than during a big project? Best of luck to you, and thanks for your comment.
Andy Tube fail #2 :-(. I’ve got a whole new set of gears, but my hook ends up in a different position every time I rotate the wheel. All I can conclude is that I’ve either got the positioning of the gears “off” or I’ve mixed up one of the gears. I couldn’t find anywhere to identify which gear went where, so I did my best to match them with the old ones. I may have mixed something up. I’m going to ask the hubby to look at it, and if he can’t figure it out then I’ll have to decide whether to invest more money into it or cut my losses. :-(
@@tammysperling1160 Are you working on a model 503A? It is true that the gears must be correct and matched. You must also be sure that the needle bar is set at the correct height before testing or setting the timing.
@@tammysperling1160 OK, so plastic gears. Here is a link to a FREE copy of the original Singer Model 636 Parts Diagram: parts.singerco.com/CPpartCharts/6_6999/636E3_636E6_636E7.pdf It shows the part numbers for the gears. You see that all four of the gears on the bottom of the machine have a different part number, so if they were swapped it may have an effect. I don't know if your new gears have part numbers on them or not. My other thought is that if you moved the horizontal hook driving shaft that may have created a problem. I'm thinking that shaft is timed and if you changed timing it may be affecting things also. So, maybe both problems; wrong gear in the wrong place and shaft not timed now. I'd like to refer you to Terry's TANDT REPAIR site, where he has parts, guides, and manuals for the T&S models, among others. I see he has a gear replacement and timing guide you can download for $9.95. I have used some of his guides over the last 4 years with good success so it may be worth it for you. Terry's has a discount coupon for Andy Tube viewers that will give you 20% off everything you buy. The code is andy-h-yt and is good for the rest of 2019 and can be used multiple times. Here is the link to the page I want to show you: site.tandtrepair.com/600TandSstuff.html I know you have been working hard on your machine there, and maybe this will help you complete the project. Thank you for saving that nice vintage Singer sewing machine. Good Luck.
Your video was clear and very informative. I have a Singer 603E, my thread catches but the needle touches to bottom carriage when all the way down. I'll check the needle bar position and timing. Thank you for your detailed video
Thank you, Frank. You are on the right track if you are having needle strikes to the bottom of the case/hook. Bar height mostly but also timing can affect that. Thanks for watching and good luck.
Best example thus far of all the videos I reviewed. My machine is a singer 360, purchased in 1981. Has been a charm up to recently, when I pulled it out to sew masks. The problem I am having is not only is the timing belt off but my bobbin holder do not turn at all unless I manipulate it by hand. Then, it doesn't turn by hand a full turn, it jams at half turn by hand. Do you know how I can get my case to turn mechanically?
Those are classic signs of a defective gear. Probably the top gear on the verticle shaft, but maybe both top gears. You can see my video for replacing the gear on a model 457. Your machine may be of a similar design and you could follow the video. (I'm not familiar with the 360) th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html If it looks the same to you you can buy the gear online for < $10. If it looks like my method will not work then I'd take a look at Terry's website and see if he has a manual or guide for your model. store.tandtrepair.com/famase.html You pay and download. Use my coupon if you buy something andy-h-yt you can also email him to ask what he suggests for your model. Your machine has plastic gears and they are going on 50 years old and I am getting this question every day now that people are home sewing. Good luck, Sharon, and be safe.
Good vedio and good lesson you're a good teacher too. I also have a 503 A , I am from India city trivandrum. Thanks for sharing this vedio for timing a 503A . Sony Ramachandran
Thanks Andy for the reply. I got the machine from a sewing machine restoring shop owned by friend Babu 2 year's back . Both of us together restored the machine and my wife is so happy with it. My friend got it from someone who was working in US 10 years back NC213686
Nice! I'm sure your wife loves it. There can't be too many 503A in India I think. FYI Singer started using the "NC" serial numbers in 1961, the last year the 503A was made. It was manufactured at Singer's factory in Anderson, South Carolina, USA. You could say that your machine is from te "most modern" batch. Thank you for sharing with us.
Welcome, Michelle. I'm glad you found it. I have 19 more Singer 503A videos in this playlist: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX.html Thanks for watching my channel.
I was able to adjust the timing on my 503A with your easy to follow instructions. When I am lining up the needle with the point at back, and I let go of the hand wheel, the hand wheel moves enough so that the needle and point does not stay lined up. I thought I had the timing set. I did some sewing and it came out of timing. I'm wondering if this is because of the movement the hand wheel makes on its own. Is there a way I can stop the hand wheel from moving, while setting the timing?
Yes, when the handwheel turns the needle will move. Even that tiny amount of "slipping" can move the needle enough that you lost the timing. When I am working on a machine that moves that easily, I wrap a big rubber band around the needle bar and presser bar to keep the needle bar from moving. I start the rubber band on the needle clamp thumbscrew then wrap around both bars 3 or 4 times and end the band back on the thumbscrew. That should hold the NB in place while you tighten the set screws on the gears. You must recheck the timing mark on the NB after wrapping with the band and force the NB back in place if needed by holding the presser bar and moving the needle. Usually, the rubber band is enough to stop movement. Be careful you are not moving the hook drive shaft while tightening the set screws b/c that can move the hook out of place. A third hand is very helpful with all this if you have one 😊 I have also used a plastic cable tie (or two) when I have no rubber band around, then cut the tie with wirecutters when finished. If using the tie, wrap the bars up fairly high and do not use enough strength on the tie to bend the NB.
Hey Andy, I’m not sure if I just haven’t gotten around to a particular video where you talk about dismantling/disassembling a machine for parts but I have a question on what if anything would remain/stay on a 500 that almost finished with taking apart. And then what does one do with the gutted machine? This machine was bought at a garage sale for $5 but it was best for parts, for me anyway, since I already have a working 500. Thanks for any input.
I've never been in that position with a machine. Others told me they just took it to Goodwill. Removed the shafts/gears (made of steel) and sold the cast aluminum body to a recycler. A couple made boat anchors of the body and one used it for target practiv=ce at the range. One said she listed it on Craigslist under FREE STUFF as a curb pickup with a picture and location.
Thanks for your video, I hope to use your information soon. Just wanted to point out WD 40 displaces moisture and can be drying, so parts it is used on should be oiled or lubricated after work is completed. Thanks again!
thank you for watching the video Sandy and I agree with you about WD-40 you should only use it to break free a screw or a part that's stuck it should be cleaned out and the machine re-oiled I've also found the WD-40 dries as hard as a rock because of the additives in it and I have found hundreds of puddles of it in the bottom of the horizontal arm that takes quite a bit of work to get out thanks for sharing that advice and I hope people will see your comment and save themselves the hassle
Hi Andy - Where is the needle bar adjustment (front to back) on a 500A. I have cleaned and set all these parts watching your great videos, now if I could get my needle from being so close to the front of the plate, and center it, I would be golden. Thank you
Congratulations on your 500A restoration. Here is what you are looking for. Go here and download a FREE pdf copy of the Singer Service Manual for Model 500A/503A: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf Start on page 12 (of the manual, not the pdf) It has the instructions for front-to-back and left-to-right needle position. It is easier with the straight stitch needle plate if you have it, but I’ve done it using the ZZ plate too. The manual has almost every adjustment possible on your machine in case there is something else in the future. Good Luck and thanks for watching my channel.
Very patient videos!; my 503A needle bar adjustment appears stuck - cannot move to left, center or right; arm appears bent downward; she always complained of it. Do you have a video etc that details its movement, adjustment etc; thanks!
Not a specific video. You can look thru these two playlists (if you have not already) for videos about the disc driving worm wheel, needle bar driving arm, and vibrating bracket. I show how to remove and replace these and maybe that can help you see how the parts should be. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX.html th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg.html You can also download a FREE copy of the original Service Manual for the 500/503 at this link: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf "arm appears bent downward" see if it is in the videos; maybe that's normal or it slipped out of position. When I get a machine for restoration, cleaning and oiling it properly remove 90% of the problems. th-cam.com/video/Sn2XD4EILFM/w-d-xo.html Good Luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks for getting back; found it; p.11 on the service manual to center needle in straight hole, but the left/center/right arm doesn't seem to do anything; with the top off I'm not seeing any range of motion; maybe something is frozen, so I prayed some wd and will try later. I think if could see what the movement range of motion is I can figure it out.
@@splashlos Yes, cleaning and oiling. When you move the LCR lever the needle bar driving arm should move the Vibrating Bracket and relocate the needle. Can you move the stitch width lever normally? That should move the needle bar also. If the needle won't swing left and right in ZZ mode you can push back on the NB to see if it moves. Have you ever oiled the VIbrating Bracket as in the Instruction manual? www.singer.com/search/support?title=503 After you are finished be sure to clean off the WD as much as possible. It dries hard and also prevents grease from sticking to the gears. No oil on gears, only grease. Good Luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 Excellent thanks for the feedback; this was my mom's machine, I'm just getting up to speed on; will look at the video thanks; you;'re a treasure to find on this internet, thank you.
@@splashlos Oh, very nice. A family-owned machine is the best. A nice continuation. You can download a free copy of the Service Manual that shows all the adjustments if you like: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf Good Luck.
yeah i know the feeling i was charged 200 ( australian dollars ) for the fix a few years ago ... now ihave your video to help me i can do it my self ( i changed the feed gear after it was stripped and the timing went out so i had to take it in for the 200 dollar sting ... ha but i have the last laugh now !!!
Hi Maggie! Sometimes the last laugh is the best laugh. Now you know how, will you be opening a shop and only charging 100 AUD? Hehe. I think you will be too busy sewing maybe. Thanks for watching Andy Tube.
Hello Andy, I have made the adjustments to the timing, and believe that that is solved. Now there is another issue, the bobbin case seizes after a few stitches. I have watched the video regarding the clearance between the bobbin case and the holder. If I use the .013 clearance, the machine will stitch for a bit, then I hear grinding sounds. If I use a really wide clearance, it will work for a time, then slide under the holder. What could this be?
So this started after you adjusted the timing? Can you describe better what you mean by "Bobbin Case Seizes"? How few stitches? Grinding sounds? It almost sounds like the bobbin case is not installed onto the hook race.
@@andytubesewing1953 Yes, it started after the timing adjustment. I can run it unthreaded and everything is fine, the minute it is threaded, the bobbin case shifts. I believe the grinding noise is that the bobbin case has been knocked out of alignment. I've checked the tension and that seems ok. I may take the tension disc off next.
OK so only when threaded. You have already set the gap narrow and wide, so I would think of tension too. Some things I have found are: the timing was set with needle timing mark set on downstroke instead of the upstroke, bobbin case threaded wrong, needle threaded wrong, the stroke of the check spring is off, too much upper tension, take-up lever installed wrong. You can adjust the tension unit lower and lower (less tension, by turning the dial knob) to see if that is the cause, but it's always good to have a clean, well-adjusted tension unit. BTW, here is the service manual if you want/need it (free): sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you for your input, I'll have a look at the timing again. I had some issues lining everything up because when I would let go of the wheel, it would rock back a bit. I am learning lots though. Thanks again, Ill let you know how it goes.
@@elmosmiles7239 I've had that same issue before and it's a hassle a couple of times I have velco strapped or wire wrapped the needle bar to the presser bar to keep it from moving that worked fairly well anyway good luck to you
something i think i'll try for working on all my old relics to make life easier because of their weight is make a swivel out of pizza pans & marbles, might make turning machines while working on them an easier process
@@andytubesewing1953 i'll get back to you on that, got an item that i was gonna chuck premade, think if i switch out castors for swivel ones i have here, it'll do without spending money lol
I have a 500j and a 503j. The 503 is noticeably noisier. I believe the sound is coming form the bobbin area. Occasionally, it will miss a stitch sewing light leather, and once in a while on other materials. I've checked/adjusted the thread clearance, checked/cleaned/adjusted the thread tension-er. It has a tendency to fray some types of thread, more so the heavier ones. I've used denim needles, and leather needles, with little change. The bobbin area remains noisier on the 503 than the 500. The noise can be heard as the thread passes over the bobbin holder area, and the bobbin holder moves slightly, within the clearance tolerances. Can this delint pin lead to a noise in this area, and possible the tendency for thread to be frayed/damaged? The pin appears to be intact and in position on this machine. Thanks for any advice you may have.
not fqmiliar with a 500j or 503j. Is that a typo? Have you swapped the bobbin cases to see if that is the cause? I had a 404 once with a similar problem and found out the part number on the bobbin case had a " -8 " and was for a different model. When I put in the original part from another 401 the problem was solved. An Andy Tube viewer named Matthew researched the type of problems you are having and removed the delint pin to solve them. He made a nice video and you may find it interesting: th-cam.com/video/19UA-7Rj8S0/w-d-xo.html Good luck and thanks for watching my channel.
you don't have a video specific to timing on a Stylist 513 but i've watched all of your timing videos and cannot get mine working...i cannot find a video or manual that tells how and i'd like to know as well how to replace a timing belt and reset that timing on model 513...do you know where i can find resources or help
Here is a link to Terry's webpage where he sells manuals for repair; some factory some that he wrote himself. store.tandtrepair.com/st4134164185.html I believe model 513 has 4 plastic gears on the bottom. The gear directly below the hook is the one you loosen to rotate the hook and align it with the needle point when the needle bar is at the correct height. There is no timing belt on the bottom between pulleys, but I think there is a vertical drive belt from the main arm shaft up top. If that is what you are calling the timing belt be sure to email Terry before you buy a manual and ask him if the manual covers the instructions for replacing that belt. His contact info is on the site. I have no idea how to go about replacing the vertical belt but I believe Terry still sells the belt, so he may be able to advise you of the procedure. P.S. I've never encountered a defective vertical "timing" or drive belt.
I could not say. I've never worked on the model or a NB with 3 marks. Looks like Terry has a service manual for some of the 6200 class models, and timing should be the same for them. Use coupon andy-h-yt for 20% off site.tandtrepair.com/6233.html
If Andy can’t get to this question, I’d appreciate anyone else reading the comments, who may know, what he uses to shine that machine so beautifully. Thanks
Andy thanks for the videos, they are great. But my timing is off ,Ive loosen (taken out) the two set screws and the bar still in moving. Any suggestions? Thanks
Are you sure the timing is off? Just asking. You're better off using my video for model 301A th-cam.com/video/6pAWzJyV0IY/w-d-xo.html Those steel gears get incredibly hot. The grease can seep into the space between the gear and the hook shaft and get "cooked" over and over. Now it's hard like varnish and makes the parts stick together. I use a penetrating oil like WD40 in the screw holes. I also have used heat, like a hairdryer or heat gun to heat the parts and oil to get the cooked grease to soften up. I've had a few I put cotton makeup remover pads soaked in WD40 and left on overnight, then heated and heated in the morning to finally get the parts free. I use old leather yard gloves when the parts are hot. Once things turn you can reset the needle bar height and rotate the hook shaft by hand to get your timing back in line. BTW, here are 38 videos in 2 playlists for working on model 301A th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKI_6fbu3itbd1v4z3uQvvkO.html th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLZyGebzS_oISgesXNyREyI.html
I have a singer 503 I am working on. Yesterday I was able to sew a tight and loose zig zag patching a pair of jeans. Today I am using zig zag on a shirt. It will straight stich no problem. But now on the zig zag it will not catch the right side of the thread. It is in center and new needle, as I used jean needle before. Any idea, the timing seems good and also needle bar height good?
How frustrating. Good idea to check the timing but if that is good here are a couple of basic steps to test. Be sure you have the regular zigzag fashion disc installed and not one of the other 8 discs that came with the machine. Be sure the disc is properly seated on top of the pattern selector. Exercise the selection levers back and forth to the limits. Example: push in the L-C-R lever and raise it top to bottom to top a few times then back to center. Do the same with the stitch width selection lever, moving it left to right, completely from one end to the other a few times, then back to the width you want to sew. Clean and oil the machine as shown on pages 86 to 92 of the Instruction Manual. A free copy is available from the Singer Support page at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=503 Try these things, one at a time, to see if that fixes it. If it does not, you can email me at my TH-cam Channel at andytube53@gmail.com and explain what's happening and any other pertinent info you think might help. We can keep trying more steps to find a solution. Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
We are having trouble with our singer Touch N Sew. Can we film the opened machine and show you how tight it is? I don't know exactly how to explain it. But if there is a way to show via filming it, let us know if we can. Thank you we love you videos. You explain things very well and not to fast or slow. Jimmy and Leanna Veale, Oak Ridge NJ.
Welcome to Andy Tube. I don't work on the Touch N Sew Models. Just never cared for them. If you watch this video, th-cam.com/video/wC8UVKYO94M/w-d-xo.html I show a website of a man who worked for Singer and serviced all the T & S models of the time. He has great information on his touch and sew pages and has written guides on how to service and maintain them. He has free documents and he sells the correct parts for DIY repairs. The video also has a 20% coupon for anything from his site. I can't help you, but reach out to Terry and he can enlighten you and put you on the path to fixing your machine. Best wishes.
I meant the timing video of yours I just watched. I have loose stitches loop like I haven’t made any adjustments by everything I watched I checked them all and everything looked fine. I watched another video on how to thread this machine, and how to set the bobbin to have Nedel pick it up. It appears the thread binds up on the ring around the Bobben that spins. And if I go front words and backwards the needle appears to click in the thread breaks. This machine has not been used in quite some time, my mother was the last time to use it and she passed away 17 years ago and I believe it was fine then. So I don’t know if I’m just doing something wrong. If you would like me to give you any more detailed information please let me know. If you can see my personal email email me to it. And I could give you my phone number so we could talk at a later date and time. Thanks Fred
So a machine sitting for 17 years can have a lot of dried up oil in the moving parts. It's always a good idea to oil it according to the manual and run it 3 to 5 minutes at slow to medium WITHOUT any needle thread or bobbin. You can download a free manual for Singer at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=503 Follow directions on pages 86 to 91. The ring around the bobbin that moves is called the hook and it has a point that catches the needle thread and carries it around to about 6 O'Clock and releases it so the take-up lever and needle can pull it up. If the needle thread is catching on the hook and not releasing, the thread clearance gap may be too narrow. th-cam.com/video/O7drU1gNKqo/w-d-xo.html The needle "click" if it is hitting the hook or bobbin case the timing is off. The needle could be out of center. The needle could be bent (frequently found, change needle) Loose thread on stitch is an unbalanced tension. The tension video shows how to adjust the tension assemble. You watched how to thread so I'll assume you got the thread between the tension discs. The bobbin case can be installed wrong. The bobbin case can be threaded wrong. Unbalanced tension can bee too little on top (needle thread tension) and the bobbin thread tension is pulling the top thread to the bottom. When you test sew use two different colors of thread on the needle and the bottom so you can see which thread is or is not pulling correctly. You can have a burr on the hook or hook point that the thread catches on and then won't release then the next thread coming around the hook gets caught on the first and so on. Test sewing should be with the needle in center position (L-C-R lever) and zero-width/straight stitch at # 10 to 12 length of the stitch. other videos th-cam.com/video/JLYNpmFQ3wQ/w-d-xo.html It is not spoken of often, b/c it seldom needs adjusting, but the tension spring on the bobbin case can be adjusted if there is too much or too little tension. There can be lint/dirt behind the tension spring on the bottom. Usually, all tension is adjusted on the upper tension for the needle thread b/c you just turn the knob for more or less tension and balance it with the bobbin thread tension. Rethread the needle completely, Be sure you have tension after the tension assembly by lowering the presser bar and pulling on the thread up by the take-up lever. When tension is 1 or 2 you can pull the thread easily as you turn to higher and higher number the thread gets harder and harder to pull. The normal setting of tension is about 3 to 5. be sure the bobbin case is installed in the hook on the hook race properly. Page 88. Be sure you thread the bobbin case correctly. Page 13 Be sure the needle is installed in the correct direction and ALL the way up into the needle clamp. Page 7. and thread the needle front to back. These are just the basic things that can be causing your problems. There are many more, but you have to start eliminating causes one at a time. I have chased a problem like this for days and a dozen adjustments only to try replacing the bobbin case and solving the problem. Don't be that guy, it isn't fun.
We don't have the 411G here and I've never seen one in person. I have many requests like yours. Your machine was made in Germany and is most like the model 401A made in the USA. I have 16 videos for Model 401A that may help you adjust your machine. Here is the Playlist: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html Also, please go here to download a free copy of the Singer Service Manual for Model 401A: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf Other people with a 411G have told me the 401A manual was very helpful to them. That is all I can say, Morena. Espero que los videos y el manual puedan ayudarlo. ¡Buena suerte!
I have a 13608m Singer sewing machine. I watch the video and check the timing and it seems to be perfect but I’m getting a looped stitch on the bottom of my sewing? So I assumed maybe it was out of time what else could it be?? thanks. Fred
Easy does it, Fred. I'll delete your other 2 comments as they are related, OK? Thanks. Timing won't cause thread looping. Looping is USUALLY caused by an unbalanced between needle thread tension and bobbin thread tension. Looping UNDER the fabric is USUALLY caused by lack of needle thread tension. This can be because the machine/needle has been threaded incorrectly, the tension unit is dusty/dirty/linty, the tension unit has some oil on the tension discs. You asked if bobbin tension can be changed. Yes, it can, but is usually the last thing you try to correct a tension problem. It is maybe 10 times more likely the problem is the needle thread tension. There is no Singer model 13608m model of machine. That may be a number on a motor or sticker on the machine, like model 327K or similar. You can go to Singer and see their instructions for finding the model number here: www.singer.com/find-your-model After you find the correct model number you can go here and enter that model number and download a FREE copy of the Singer Instruction Manual for it: www.singer.com/support Once you have the manual, pull out the thread on your machine and re-run it back according to the instruction manual. Be sure you lift the presser foot before you start threading, and the thread gets between the tension discs. You can also brush, blow or vacuum clean the tension unit if you still have trouble. Because of the odds that it is a needle thread tension problem you want to do everything to correct that before you do anything else. Please do not change the bobbin tension. If you can't figure out the model number you can look at my playlist page to see if I have done a restoration series on a machine like yours. th-cam.com/channels/USPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4w.htmlplaylists?view_as=public You can also go to this nice site and look at a photo gallery of vintage Singer models to see if you can find your: www.singersewinginfo.co.uk/gallery_machines/ If you want to post a couple of decent pictures of your machine on your TH-cam page then give me a link to them and i will see if I can identify it. Good Luck.
Unfortunately I do not have a TH-cam page but your reply was fantastic I would love to get you a picture of my machine but I do not know how I am going to try blowing it out with compressed air and putting a very very light coating of WD-40 on some of the moving parts. If you can see my email please reply to it and I can send a picture back to you. Again thanks so much for your reply and all your answers. Freddy
@@fredA1234 To leave a comment you have a TH-cam account, and that is your page. Click on the camera in the top right and drag & drop your pictures. Don't worry, maybe someday. I would not use wd-40, Freddy. The tension unit needs no oil. Oil is bad on a tension unit. Did you find the correct model number? OK then, use the compressed air and try to clean the unit. I hope you are threading it correctly, and good luck.
I’m getting loose stitches on the bottom of my material and then it seems to bind up and check the tension I’ve done everything by watching your video but I cannot figure it out! Can you help me! Fred
Let's get some more info, Fred. Loose stitches on the bottom; like a little bit loose? or loops of thread? bind up and check the tension; the thread binds? the machine stops or stutters? Check the tension how? Done everything by watching my video, this tension video? Could you tell me what kind of changes or adjustments you have done to this point? There are a lot of possible causes but knowing more can help narrow down what to look for and fix. Thanks.
The principles of timing are that same on all sewing machines. The needle eye behind the hook point and above the point about 1/32 to 1/16 inch. The needle bar height markings and the disconnection point for moving the hook into place can be different depending on the make and model of machine. Here are some more examples of timing; th-cam.com/video/cHkqoYYlvRE/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/pANycD90wQg/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/oHGwdEcYGZo/w-d-xo.html
My hook is not spinning on my Touch and Sew 648. I tried to reset my timing and I think I might have loosened a wrong screw in the process. Any ideas of what I might have done?
Hey, my crystal ball is at the cleaners this week. Are the gears on your model steel like the 503A, or are they plastic? You should have only loosened two screws on the right-hand side gear, so I'm not sure what screw was wrong. Did your hook spin before you started to work on the timing? Is this a newly acquired machine you are trying to get going? You get the picture here, right? Hard for me to say what went wrong without having hands on the machine and knowing some background. I asked about plastic gears because they can strip and crack, especially the horizontal gear on the bottom of the hook. That always seems to be the one that goes first. Of course, if you did not tighten things back up then it won't turn properly. You can go to Terry's store and buy the entire Singer Service Manual for the 648 and download it. It's $10, but if you use coupon andy-h-yt before 8/1/2019 Terry will give you 20% off your entire order. You want the SM640 Manual >> site.tandtrepair.com/600TandSstuff.html That will have all the adjustments on your machine, including the timing. You can get a FREE copy of the parts diagram here >> parts.singerco.com/CPpartCharts/6_6999/648E3_648E6_648E7.pdf Gear 163994 near the bottom of page 4 is the hook gear I mentioned. If plastic it can crack, chip or strip teeth, etc. For general troubleshooting, see the gears at 10:33 in this video? They turn when the handwheel turns the horizontal arm shaft on the top of the machine. When you operate the handwheel by hand, do those gears turn? If not, your trouble is up top. If they turn, does the shaft going to the left towards the hook turn also? (Hook drive shaft) if it doesn't then lose screws, if it does then the gear on the other end should turn and that turns the hook gear on the bottom of the hook. If all that turns then the hook should turn. I know your 648 is a Touch & Sew Model with a "wind-in-place" bobbin system. I do not work on the T&S machine so I do not know if pushing the "bobbin button" to wind the bobbin just elevates the bobbin for winding or does it stop-motion on the hook. Is the bobbin winding system working normally as per the Singer Instruction Manual for Model 648 which is FREE here >> www.singer.com/sites/default/files/product_manual/a6172931362178d23f294bac5f8cd24f48798c80_0.pdf Terry at store.tandtrepair.com/ is the most knowledgeable T&S machine expert I know b/c of his experience. He could guide you better than me if you need more help. My final advice is to dump the 648 T&S at Goodwill and find a nice 403A. But that's just my opinion, haha. Best of luck.
Hello sir nice or informational video . I have singer 8280 modle machine . It's hook or needle suddenly mismatch . Hook bobbin not catch the upper thread ,plz help me . And make a video on single 8280 modle.
Sorry, you have this experience. It does sound like a timing issue. I have no machine like yours; it is many years too modern for me. I can find no repair manuals or service guides for it. I won't be able to offer help, sorry and good luck.
I love your videos, however I cant find my problem...are you available to help me figure out why my needle is hitting the bottom of my bobbin plate on my Singer Patchwork 7285Q? Im trying to make masks for family for the Corona Virus and I am at a complete standstill...Thank you!
On a vintage mechanical machine, as I work on, a needle strike to the bobbin case is caused by wrong size needle for the machine, needle not completely inserted up into the needle clamp, loss of timing between the needlepoint and hook point, the height of the needle bar if off, or the hook race/feed dog area is full of lint. Your machine is much newer of course, and electronic so I don't have a clue as to how the items I just mentioned are controlled. The lint, needle size, needle insertion are universal, the other items may be much different and maybe a bad component or control for the pattern. I could not find a service manual for your model. SInger still has a free copy of the instruction manual available: www.singer.com/search/support?title=7285 The only thing in the troubleshooting guide that pertains is the needle not being inserted correctly. It takes the same needle as my machines, catalog 2020, now called 15x1 in sizes 11, 14, 16 & 18. Can't help you more than that. Sorry, and good luck.
Hey, I'm stuck with a set screw on the gear that won't loosen. I've hit it with a hammer, WD-40, duct tape, a rubber band, I even warmed it up with a lighter. I'm so scared of stripping it. What can I do?
Duct tape? I missed that one. I think you have 3 choices. Hit it with a dose of MPD*, or repeat what you've been doing. It's at the point of Patience & Persistence I call it. Your trying to turn the screw at the same time you hammer it. right? I never thought of using a lighter. I just use a hairdryer for longer and longer times. Those gears get VERY HOT 🔥and I believe the screw gets "baked" into the hole especially if oil is in the threads. That oil gets dried, like the gunk on the oven door. Heat is supposed to soften it. I have often laid the machine on its back and put a couple of cotton balls soaked in WD40 and wrapped them with a strip of t-shirt and let it sit for 12+ hours or more. I remove that and if it is still struck I use the heat for 10 to 15 minutes at a time. I've had a couple screws that took days to get out. I don't mind b/c I usually restore the foot pedal or motor while waiting. The 3rd choice is to quit I guess. You are sure the timing is off? That is why you want to loosen the gear screw? I did have one guy write me that he finally put his 401A in a chest freeze overnight and that worked. He believes it shrunk the screw away form the sides of the hole a tiny bit, *MPD = Magic Pixie Dust ❇
@@andytubesewing1953 thanks! I got it after a few rounds of wd40 and some help from someone stronger than me. It looks like it was all too much because the threads on the screw were way too far gone. The first screw came out and went back in like a dream. It's disappointing but I'm not sure there's any fixing that screw or the machine.
@@EC-fm3vb congratulations I'm glad you got it out I've had to tap out a few screw holes a little bit larger but then I could use a standard size set screw it's a lot of work but whatever you do good luck
Like you I had a less than advantageous experience with my repair place bout cost and decided to look at these vids and knew that by stopping and starting along the way I could do what was suggested. Thank you for the intense hook adjusting because it is not on the video of my machine Singer 750 even though it is a two part series. No fault of Singer but it is missing what problem I have and I have not been able to find anything similar in another vid. I followed the dismantling that was done on that vid and then after replacing the broken gears reversed but the hook stays free and goes out of proper position at the needle. What have I not done? Thank you.
Tom, please take a quick look at this video to get a website and coupon code. On Terry's site you can buy guides that show how to replace the lower gears and set the timing. The coupon is for 20% off anything you buy. Good Luck.
I guess I am the only person in the world to have ever experienced the situation of having dismantled the 750 gears according to the two-part series, installed them, reversed the dismantle process and still have a free standing hook that whirly gigs a it pleases instead of moving according to the gears, etc.?
I doubt that Tom. More like one person of hundreds. I don't work on the T&S Models. That's why I referred you to Terry at TANDTREPAIR.COM. You mention a two-parts series, but I don't know what you mean. The best I can suggest is to contact Terry for help. I have done that several times and always with good results. He knows more about the T&S models than anyone I know.
I'm also trying to find the type of foot controller your machine uses. it's too new of a model for me to have worked on, but on vintage models it is usually a problem with the foot controller sooner that the motor, especially if the controller is a carbon resistor type. If you can add any more info, please do,
Andy help, after doing thus exercise, the belt under no longer moves as i turn the handwheel forward. Plus the hook point doesnt turn or move either. When i turn the hookpoint with my hand, the belt under moves.
I have a good idea of what your problem may be, and a solution to fix it. Please look on my "ABOUT" page for my email address and write to me. If possible, include a picture of your machine from the front and a picture of the bottom mechanical parts so I can verify the system. This will be easier than jumping around the comments section. Thank you.
Hi Andy, Great videos! I have watched a few about timing that you have and trying to figure out if it will fix my issue. I have a Singer Touch & Sew 750. It has not been used in years. We got it oiled up and running nicely. However, as soon as I tried sewing it worked for several stitches and then my needle broke! Looking at where the needle goes down in it appears that it is off because it is hitting the bobbin plate. Not sure the name but it is the part under where the bobbin goes. So searching online this is how I found your videos. Now I think that my timing is off and wanted to try to fix myself. I checked the needle bar and the lines as you mentioned and that seems ok. Do you have a video on how to do the timing for a Singer 750? I thought maybe this video would be closest to it but not certain. Thanks in advance and love the videos!
I'll start by saying I do not work on the T & S Models and I've never touched a 750, but I know what the problem is. The timing was lost b/c one or more plastic gears on the bottom of the machine broke is usually what you will find when this happens. There are a couple videos on TH-cam about replacing the gears and Terry Fielding at site.tandtrepair.com/700TS.html wrote a guide about it and also has the service manuals. Some people tell me the videos worked for them and some the guide worked and some needed both to understand what to do. The gear guide is $7.15 after using my coupon code andy-h-yt and getting 20$ off. Here are the videos I'm talking about: th-cam.com/video/cYLzGwpoWeE/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/x2acFJeDxwg/w-d-xo.html You can search online for the gears at eBay and other sites. It is advised to replace all at the same time, but some folks buy the gears but only replace the hook shaft gear. I think that is the one that breaks the most often. This broken gear thing is very common. I've had 50 emails about it in the last 6 months as people started sewing masks. The machine is about 50 years old now and there are about 20 models with plastic gears that I know of. Some people have asked me about it after their local shops wanted $150 to $300 to replace $20 worth of gears. Thanks for watching my channel, and good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you so much! We did manage to figure out how to fix the timing issue using your video instructions. I will look at the other info provided to see about a broken plastic gear. I haven't tried sewing yet but can see it is running properly now and the needle no longer hits. Thanks again!
@@therealpropertyview That's very good news. Perhaps the gear just got some oil on it and slip. (No oil or grease on plastic gears.) Happy for you, Denise 😊
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you! Looks like I spoke too soon....oops. Seems to be out of time again. I think there is oil on the plastic gears too. We will get that cleaned up pronto.
Hello Andy, I LOVE your videos and I learned so much from you!! You are a great asset to many of us with vintage sewing machines who enjoy DIY projects. I have an issue and I am at my last resort. Wondering if you have an answer to my problem. To give you a background I own a Singer 403 Special, I triple checked the timing of the needle and hook and I also adjusted and triple checked the tension. Everything looks good there. My issue is in bobbin area. The thread hooks fine but soon after it hooks my thread grinds and gets caught with something near the feed dog area. I noticed that the thread slides along the left side of the feed dog. I s that normal. I also see the needle being tugged to the left for a second until the thread magically releases itself. It eventually continues to do what it suppose to do until it does it again randomly in which the thread and it eventually breaks. It gets caught maybe every 5 sec. PLEASE CAN YOU HELP ME??? I would love to send you a video of my problem. How can i do that?
The problem of the week, congratulations and sorry you have this experience. No, it's not normal. I'm trying to picture it but, yes, a video may help. Why not just upload to your youtube channel? It is not hard, and you can make it unlisted (only those with the link can watch) or public (all can watch) Here is a link to videos explaining how to upload: th-cam.com/users/results?search_query=how+to+upload+a+video+to+youtube Take a look and see what you think. Sending videos via email does not always work well, but we'll see firs if you can upload on your channel.
Hi Andy, I posted a few videos on my TH-cam channel. Forgive me for saying feed dogs "dog feeds". Ha! Hopefully you can do your magic and solve this mystery. I appreciate you solo much!
Thank you for this video again. I have to change both hook gears on a Singer 507. Have you made a video that explains the correct replacement, or an istructional pdf? Another question: if I was able to substitute them, I'd have to grease them or the plastic of the gears could spoil in the grease? Apologies for my awful English. Best regards from Italy
Non c'è bisogno di scusarsi, Laura. Il tuo inglese è eccellente rispetto al mio italiano. I do not have, and can not find ANY documents for a Singer Model 507. No one I contacted had records of this model. There is a popular video on TH-cam showing how to change the gear on a Singer Machine. It is made by a parts seller. You can find it here: th-cam.com/video/qHx6VPdenj0/w-d-xo.html If you like, you can contact me on my TH-cam Channel email; andytube53@gmail.com. If you send me pictures of the front of the machine and of the bottom mechanical area I will try to assist you. Most Singer models were very similar, whether they were made in the USA or elsewhere. If I see your machine I may be able to find a similar US model and have records and information about it. As to the grease on plastic gears; I do not put grease or oil on plastic gears or parts. Period. I believe oil contact is why the original plastic gears failed. I have been told that there are modern greases that are made for plastic and are OK to use. I have also been told that Tri-Flow clear synthetic grease will not harm plastic gears, but I do not know that from personal experience. Grazie per aver guardato il mio canale, Laura, e buona fortuna a te.
@@andytubesewing1953 Il tuo italiano è ottimo! Thank you for your answers and availability. When I've found that vertical shaft hook gear's teeth were crumbled, I've thought to change only this but making a search on Google it is clear that substitute both is better than only the broken one. I need your support also to choose the gears to purchase. I'll take advantage of your kindness begging your pardon in advance. Saluti dalla Sicilia
@@andytubesewing1953 I want to thank you so much for your support. You've helped me to fix my issue. My 507 has breathed again, she has barely escape to be thrown in the trash! Do you have e advice for a too high needle tension ( just position the tension on 2 the thread is particularly taut)?The problem was previous to gear replacement. Needless to say that I've watched your videos about threading...I hope my 507 will stop to be the source of so many issues... God bless you
Oh, Laura, thanks for saving that 507 from the trash! Nicely done. These machines respond very well to good maintenance. Once cleaned and adjusted they can last for decades longers. Here is a tension series I filmed that shows more than you ever wanted to know about tension. I explain about the parts b/c I believe if you know what they are and how they are supposed to work then you can spot problems and fix them. Maybe the tension series can help you out. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJaeFB_GW97NsW5GYM7KD9U.html
so would this work on the singer heavy duty 4411/4423? Bc my sewing machine isn't hooking the bobbin thread and I can't find anything to adjust my hook timing with the exact model of mine.
In general, many singer machines use this method. I can't say 100% because I do not have, and nobody I know has, a service adjustment manual for the models you mention. Before I attempted changing the timing I would verify the needle is at the correct height. That can make you skip stitches too. The theory is that as the needle is starting back up from the bottom of the stroke the hook rotates past the needle and grabs the loop of the needle thread. If the hook passes too early or late it missed the loop. So with the needle on the way up can you see where the hook point is? Remove needle plate, bobbin case, etc and look between the toes of the feed dog to see the needle come down and start back up. During that moment the hook should be passing the needle. Many machines are adjusted like in my video, but a handful are different. If you try to change the timing, mark how the gear meshes now with a sharpie or permanent ink. If you fail you can go back to your original setting. When you fix it, then sell your machine and get a nice slant-needle or 337/347 vintage machine, hehe.
Welcome to Andy Tube Omotayo. Sorry to hear you are having an issue. Maybe you could look at my latest video about timing. It happens to be about Singer Model 413, wgich is the same as the 513 just a different platic panel in front. th-cam.com/video/pANycD90wQg/w-d-xo.html&index=5&list=PLsCOZgzzaiKKVlkxPT9FMTdvUUGj8Ydf8 To me it sounds like a timing issue. If you like, you can go to my "ABOUT" page and find my email address and email me asking for documents for your 513. I can send ylou a free copy of the Original Singer Service Manual for your machine which shows how to do many adjustments and parts removal and replacement. th-cam.com/channels/USPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4w.htmlabout?disable_polymer=1 Good Luck and take care.
First, thank you for your videos - they are incredibly informative. Question: could it be a timing issue if the hook isn't casting off correctly? I just got a Singer 503a Rocketeer, and I'm struggling to get it to work. Checked for burrs as you instructed in another video and didn't feel any, but grabbing some sandpaper later in any case. The thread does seem to catch a bit as it goes along the top of the bobbin, so that could be part of the problem.
I don't think it is timing b/c timing is the hook point to needlepoint and your machine is catching the needle thread onto the hook point. Be sure you are using a class 66 bobbin. Your model was designed to use and came from the factory with, PLASTIC class 66 bobbins. Many people like to use metal bobbins. Most of the metal bobbins have a height of 7/16" while the plastic class 66 bobbin should have a height of 5/16". Since you said the thread seems to catch going over the bobbin is why I mention this; wondering if you have metal bobbins. Class 66 bobbins have curved. saucer-shaped sides while class 15 bobbins have flat sides. Don't use class 15 in your model either. There are other possibilities as well. The needle thread tension unit has a setting for STROKE & TENSION, and if they're off it can cause a problem also. Stoke & Tension are easy to set. Here is a video of doing that adjustment on a model 403A; th-cam.com/video/t3UqzYRo-cc/w-d-xo.html Here is the tension unit video of the 503A as it is a little different than the 403A, so you can see the difference; th-cam.com/video/OqZZ-uhnAMY/w-d-xo.html If your stroke is off the takeup spring can be putting tension on the thread too early, making it taught as it drags over the bobbin. One last thing is the timing of the take-up lever. It is rare for this to be off and usually b/c someone played with the parts. Here is a takeup lever video for your model and at 19:25 I explain and show about installing the link stud so the set screw that holds it goes on the flat spot of the stud. th-cam.com/video/7-3Cr9neZTc/w-d-xo.html That is what times the takeup so after the hook casts off the thread the takeup lever starts pulling the thread slack up out of the fabric. If the timing is off the takeup can start pulling the thread too early making it drag and catch on the hook and bobbin. Check/try your bobbin first, then stroke, and let's see what you find. Good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 I was about at my wit's end and knew you would have some great ideas to help me. My machine came with a single metal bobbin, but I tried a plastic one I had in a Singer 57825 that was slightly domed, and that did help stop the issue I had before of the thread catching when hand cranking, but my top thread snaps after a couple stitches with the pedal, so I'll need to dig into your tension videos and the others you mentioned. I also ordered some plastic class 66 bobbins since I don't know for sure what ones came with my other machine. I'm not giving up...I really want to get this beauty running. I'll keep you updated! Again, thank you. I never imagined I would be taking apart a sewing machine almost twice my age to hopefully get it fully functional again, but I'm trying now, and I definitely wouldn't be doing it without your help!
@@briannaburdett1295 You're learning some good troubleshooting methods, and that is part of working on vintage machines. Yes, it may be too much thread tension, but it may be the way you threaded the upper path, or the way you wound the bobbin, (uneven or too loose or tight), or the condition of the bobbin case (dirty, linty), the thread too big for the needle, bent needle, wrong class of needle, too much tension on the bobbin case tension spring ( th-cam.com/video/HT5XZ5eYYEQ/w-d-xo.html ) and so forth. I think all these variable situations are why I came to cleaning and oiling the machine completely before troubleshooting. That seems to eliminate about 90% of these weird little problems. It seems like a lot of work to remove some parts, pretreat, wash, dry, and lube the machine, but in the long run, it has saved me time and a lot of aggravation and it's always rewarding to have a clean, nice-smelling machine. th-cam.com/video/kXZHksK7rGQ/w-d-xo.html Here is an article I bookmarked last year about thread breakage. blog.treasurie.com/sewing-machine-thread-keeps-breaking/
@@andytubesewing1953 I cannot thank you enough. Switching to a plastic bobbin, cleaning, and oiling made a big difference, but it still felt off. The stroke + tension video was exactly what I needed, and I got that reset, so now my stitches are beautiful! Thank you, thank you, thank you! I'm going to keep this beauty in tip top shape following your care and maintenance videos.
@@briannaburdett1295 I'm so glad you persisted with the problem. Too many people give up just before they find a solution. You've sure learned a lot by working on your Rocketeer and I bet you feel very rewarded by seeing those beautiful stitches. It's such a nice model. Sure, just do normal maintenance and it will last for decades longer. It is about 60 years old now, so if the motor starts to seem sluggish here is an easy way to speed it back up for about $10. th-cam.com/video/pzq4tv8qn94/w-d-xo.html I wish getting some pep back in myself was that easy 😉 Thanks for sharing the news and your experience can encourage other viewers to work on their machines, too. Happy sewing.
Howdy, Michael. The set in this video can be found here: chapmanmfg.com/products/9600-starter-slotted-bit-set This is my video about them in 2017 when I first got it: th-cam.com/video/KnrvDZeaYj4/w-d-xo.html This is the other set that I bought in 2019: www.btibrands.com/product/professional-gunsmithing-screwdriver-set-43-pc/ This is my video about it: th-cam.com/video/7_DHIC6eskc/w-d-xo.html The Wheeler set is a better bang for the buck, but I use both of them and the bits on the Chapman set seem stronger and come with a lifetime guarantee and made in the USA. The little mini-rachet is worth its weight, believe me. The Wheeler handle is more comfortable and the bits/handle are magnetic which is nice. As mentioned in the second video, many of the parts are interchangeable between the sets. Thanks for watching my channel, friend, and take care.
My Fashion Mate 360 needle is not going up and I took it to a repair shop and she told me it was the clutch but she didn’t want to repair it. Now I am not afraid to try to fix it my self. I have the hand wheel off but not sure what to do next. I don’t want to junk it. It a good old machine built in Italy. Can you help me please.
I do not have a service manual for Model 360, but all singer machines have a "clutch". It is a washer system. The washer is between the stop motion knob (also called stop motion screw, handwheel knob or clutch knob) and the handwheel. When you turn the stop motion knob toward you, while holding the handwheel, it takes the pressure off the washer. Without pressure on the washer the motor, or belt, can only turn the handwheel itself. You do this to wind a bobbin, as the bobbin winder will turn, but the needle bar, hook and feed dog will not. When you hold the handwheel and tun the knob away from you it applies pressure back on the washer, so it acts like a clutch making contact with the horizontal arm shaft and supplying motion to the needle bar, hook and feed dog, If the repair lady said something is wrong with the clutch then perhaps the washer was installed wrong; either backwards, or upside down. Here are 2 videos that show removing and installing the handwheel, along with the washer and knob. It is not your model 360, but the principle is the same. th-cam.com/users/edit?o=U&video_id=eZiMaaka5HE th-cam.com/users/edit?o=U&video_id=hHl96WL1kzA Here is a video showing a knob similar to yours. Watch @1:20 and @ 10:40. th-cam.com/video/wxSpdaZBLk4/w-d-xo.html You can download a free Model 360 Instruction Manual here: www.singerco.com/uploads/download/679_360.pdf If you need more help, email my channel email at andytube53@gmail.com. That would be a better way to communicate about this problem. Good Luck
You both have top of the line taste in Singer machines! Interesting the changes in models from her generation to yours. Singer was a pioneer in the electronic sewing machine and I guess almost all modern-day models are electronic. I have never seen an Athena or TouchTronic machine in person let alone worked on one, but if I did then Terry would be my go-to source about them: site.tandtrepair.com/Athena2000.html Thank you, Adina, for watching my channel.
Thanks for your video's Andy. Every time I tried laying my machine over on it's back the timing would move due to the weight of the cams. I finally used a piece of clear shipping/packing tape to hold the hand wheel in place by taping to the frame. Hope this helps someone else.
What a clever idea that saves time and aggravation. 🏆 Very nice of you to share it and I will give it a try next time.
Your videos gave me the courage to buy a frozen 500A on ebay. Over time i have unfrozen, fixed the bobbin winder, and put the bobbin case/pieces back together again. Then realized the timing was a mess, fixed that! Learned how to put the loose bobbin cover on. Cleaned the whole thing with alcohol followed by a teflon oiling. Got the levers working to lift off dog feed cover. And i could go on and on. I did all this just by watching your videos. I owe you boucous of thank you's and $$.
I feel like i know you and consider you a friend.
I'm 73 and intend to spend a lot of time sewing. I saved this singer from being torn apart for parts because of you. No one, seriously, NO ONE explains the secrets of a vintage singer like you.
Take care, my friend. I wish us both good health❤
Thank you for saving that machine 🙏💖 You have some fabulous sewing ahead of you and now you know much more about your machine. I admire your work b.c I know the effort it takes. You are the best, Diane. Happy sewing.
Here I am, again, Andy. I hope you are well. Thank you sooooo much for teaching us, it keeps these ol girls stitchin. I value these videos so much, I can always come back and refresh on the lessons you taught me. Bless you and yours.
Hey, thanks! Your comment really lifted my spirits this afternoon. Nice of you to leave it. This was one of my favorite videos to make and I'm shocked to see it now has 145K views! I'm honored that so many people have stopped by to see it. Bless you, too, and all you love.
These components look a lot like the ones on my 46-year-old Singer Fashion Mate 252. I am encouraged by these step-by-step instructions and took notes. If others can do it successfully, I'm willing to try.
Some components are similar, that's true. While the 503A in this video has a gear-driven hook, your model 252 has a belt-driven hook (timing belt) and the timing function is a little different. Here is a timing video for model 347 that has a similar timing belt set-up as your machine. I think it is a better video for you to go by while working on your 252. th-cam.com/video/dW6haHu4-hU/w-d-xo.html
Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
I was guided to this from your other 600-something Singer Stylist model, which had a different timing belt system that did not depend on gears. Thank you so much for your thorough helpfulness. You have helped me give my Singer Stylist 518 new life.
Thank you for letting me know. I am happy you can keep sewing. I have some videos of the 513, a sister machine if you have other issues in the future. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLELksv_-MWE7tiAuzOgQj0.html
Be safe and take care.
55 dislikes. Who in the world would listen and watch a guy tell them exactly how to fix their obsolete old machine and not like what they've watched. I guess I'll never understand that. Thanks Andy!
You are welcome Ralph, and thanks for the comment. Based on the emails I get I think many of the dislikes are due to my pace and delivery being slower than some folks like. I guess they don't know how to increase the playback speed. I don't worry about dislikes, I'm just happy if most people find my videos helpful. Thanks again, and take care.
Just used this to adjust timing on a Singer 603E. Thank you again, Andy!
Excellent! I appreciate you keeping that machine and service and thank you for the nice comment. Happy sewing!
I inherited a Singer 1802 recently and have been using it to finally learn to sew. I was having some issues with the bobbin thread catching. After a bit of googling I found your video. I went from knowing nothing about how the machine worked to fixing the timing within an hour. A few components were a little different, but your explanation of the mechanics made it possible for me to adapt the process to my machine.
Thank you for the comment, Michael. It was kind of you to take the time. I pinned it in the hope others might see it and be encouraged to watch even if they are searching for a solution to a different model.
Or at least I think that this was the intention of that instruction. Truth be told you could rotate it either direction while making the adjustment, it just might take a little more trial and error? Mechanical reasoning would dictate that you load up the system very slightly AGAINST the drive direction to get it just right.
You can see that when you have the hook in the correct position and it is possible with your fingernail to rotate it past the needle just by taking up the clearances (lash) in the bevel drive system.
I just bet you a person could take out all the lash in the system but it doesn't seem that it matters much.
Andy,
Just wanted to let you know, you've given me a new machine. I downloaded the manual and have made adjustments, it sews perfectly. I've suffered a long time with the thread nests and am beyond grateful. Thank you again!
So very happy to hear this! Congratulations. Better to be sewing than fixing, right? You're a good DIY mechanic. Thanks for keeping that machine in use. Take care.
Thank you, Andy... I've got 2 machines that people have forced on me that don't sew well, and there's no one here but me to correct the situation... Fantastic!
Hi April. I'm glad you found my channel. If I csn help as you go along working on them just ley me know.
I just followed your instructions and was finally able to fix my Athena 2000. I put new gears on it today. Thank you many times over for your tutorial on singer repairs. I subscribed to your channel because I have 4 Singers.
I love this comment. Nicely done. Jacqueline. I'm glad you found my video and thank you for saving that machine! You're the best! Happy sewing. ✨
Mr. Andy you JUST AWESOME and we LOVE YOU
A very nice comment to start my Sunday. Thank you for your support. 🙏
Thank you Andy! I always learn so much from your videos and then when I follow your very thorough instructions (I take notes!), I always am successful. I am going to try to check and repair the timing on a different machine and hope that this will be the fix I need to get my Kenmore 158.1803 running correctly.
Thank you and I hope you are successful with that Kenmore!
Andy, Your videos and explanations are Sew very helpful and this one on how to set the timing is a very good example. I have stopped and viewed it many times as I went about correcting the timing on my Singer 401a. Keep up the good work, Andy, for it is truly appreciated by many of your viewers.
It's so nice of you to leave a comment about it. I'm always shocked by how many views this video gets. I guess my plan is working, haha. Help people with there vintage Singer machines and they will keep them working and out of landfills. Thanks for watching my channel. Take Care.
Wow, I never would have guessed that is how to set the timing on this machine. Very interesting!
It surprised me also. I found It counterintuitive to go to the opposite end from the hook itself. There are a few slant needle models like this. Thanks for watching my channel.
Andy,good day I am a Filipino.thanks for you to share your knowledge to fix a singer sewing machine.I lean much about it.
Greeting Mr. Tupaz. Thanks for commenting. I'm very happy if I have helped you repair a machine. I appreciate that you took the time to comment. Can you share the model of your Singer Machine? I am curious about what you worked on. Salamat. Take care, friend.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I’ve got so many machines, I need to start fixing my own machines Your always explain things so well. It’s great for the beginners, like me.
It's kind of you to say so. Yes, my videos are made with beginners in mind. You can do it, Gracie, no worries. Thanks for saving those machines.
Thank you! Your demo is an excellent reminder for me, because I haven't set the timing in a long time or very much.
Sure, you are welcome. I'm glad you found my channel, Mary. I sure get a lot of requests for timing videos, so I try and do one for each model I work on now. Hope you have time to stop by again. Take Care.
Usted es el mejor. Creo que e visto todos sus video.. y e podido arreglar la singer 404 de mi tio.
Estoy feliz de que hayas encontrado mi canal. El 404 es mi máquina favorita de puntadas rectas. Aquí hay listas de reproducción para ayudar con el modelo 404:
MÁQUINA: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKIB4kvIHCfHYuyLMUp5A4UI.html
MOTOR RÁPIDO: th-cam.com/video/pzq4tv8qn94/w-d-xo.html
TODO EL MOTOR: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJSu0T9oeaheTZsrUe91kkZ.html
EL PEDAL DEL PIE: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKL6ePPxLpmnWSzTyxPKTb71.html
Gracias por tu amable comentario y mantente a salvo.
The gears on your machine are SO CLEAN and I am extremely jealous. Please tell us more on how to clean never-been-touched-up grimy gears.
Also, thank you for helping me, an unworthy millennial, work on my 500A. Even if my stitch skipping issue is greater than just a timing hook, I am still forever grateful.
Hello, Emilie, and welcome to Andy Tube. Thank you for commenting. You are as worthy as anyone else who visits here and I'm happy you did. About half of my machines are sold to people in your age group. I'll give you some links here to my video playlists that apply to your model 500A. You may already be aware of them but I want to be sure. In this one, I'm working on Vicky, the model 503A and there are videos in it showing my cleaning methods of washing the machine in a shower (yes, shower), drying it, and lubrication afterward. The Krud Kutter is very good at getting that decades-old grime out of the machine. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX.html Another more recent playlist of Trouble, a model 401A shows how to work on and adjust all those parts inside your 500A as they both have the same mechanics. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html Deep cleaning a machine like this can eliminate many problems, but your Rocketeer has a reputation for skipping stitches, especially on knit fabrics. If it still does after you clean to your satisfaction I suggest you take a look at this free copy of the original Service Manual for your machine.
sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf Pages 12, 14 & 16 seem to be the final adjustments to cure skipping if everything else looks normal (timing, replace a bent needle, etc) I also want to mention a free INstruction Manual is available from Singer if you need one. Everything about using your machine. www.singer.com/search/support?title=500 If I haven't scared you off yet, on my main playlist pages you can find instructions for rehabbing the motor and also the foot controller th-cam.com/channels/USPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4w.htmlplaylists?view_as=public One of the most rewarding procedures for the motor is to seat the brushes with a $10 diamond stone:
th-cam.com/video/pzq4tv8qn94/w-d-xo.html Even if you don't get the machine sparkling clean, proper oiling, fixing the skips, and seating the brushes can make a work of difference. Best of luck, Emilie, and don't be a stranger to my channel. Take Care.
Thanks Andy for the information on the Singer SM. I have a 648 and it pretty much is the same machine as you have. I replaced the top plastic gear that has been plaguing these machines forever. I wish they stuck with the metallic gears , the 648 would have not broken down. Once again, CHEERS !
Welcome. Of all the parts to save money on by making them plastic, the gears were the worst choice. I have had a couple guys tell me they bought the metal gears for the horizontal and vertical shafts from an earlier T & S, like the 626, and replaced the plastic gears in their machine. It's a bit of work changing that horizontal arm gear, but they felt they would only need to do it once. Thanks for watching my channel.
great video, very helpful. so engrossed in learning my hand went down in my cup of tea lol. thankyou
oops! Not to hot I hope. Thanks very much for watching my channel. 🙏
@@andytubesewing1953 😂😂not too bad
Thank you Andy!! You do such a great job going through every step and explaining it, as well as, showing it. Fixed my problem, and so many others too!! You Rock-Thanks again & Take care Andy!!
Nicely done, Rose! Kind of you to take time and let me know. I'm glad you found my channel, and don't be a stranger.
Andy, your videos are marvelous!
Thanks. This is one of my most popular videos and I'm glad you also like it.
Thank you Andy for helping me out with my 401a I like your videos they're very informative and accurate I'm not a mechanic but I like bringing back things from the dead
You're welcome, Tracy. "back from the dead", haha. Some of the machines seem that way th-cam.com/video/04AN-FW7DzA/w-d-xo.html
I guess you saw my playlist for Trouble, my Singer Model 401A? th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html Thanks for saving the machines, and for watching my channel.🙏 Happy Salvation
I can send you some pictures if you like I restored a nice desk cabinet with it I'm pretty proud of it
@@redmonkeyTracyk I encourage you as I have many others, to post a video of it on your YT channel. You could give a tour with some info on how you did the work, etc. People would enjoy that and be encouraged to work on their own cabinet (or pay you to do theirs!! 😀) I started with a poorly recorded video showing a friend overseas about the mechanical parts to a Singer he was thinking of buying. That lousy video led to 600 more, 24K subscribers, and 4,000,000 views on my channel. You may enjoy it. Good luck and take care.
@@andytubesewing1953 I don't have a channel but I do have like one video up I don't know if I can figure out how to do the TH-cam thing I'll keep you posted thanks Andy
@@redmonkeyTracyk Where you posted that video in 2018 is your "channel". When you make an account that is your channel and you can post videos. You can click on your name above and it will take you to your channel right away. Just as you have to sign in to post comments you must be signed in to post videos too. You can even google about posting on youtube and the TH-cam folks have tutorials about it. No worries if you do or don't. Take care.
I have been watching all the videos on these machines.I have a Singer 500. I picked this machine up at Goodwill, and I am sure every little kid that walked by twist and turn every knob possible, I probably would have too given the chance and not within mothers eyesight. Brought it home cleaned, lubed and oil it. It was fairly clean, but not thoroughly clean and had not been used in many years. I first had issues with the tension, have learn the various threading patterns until I finally found one that worked and I got it running smoothly with a great looking stitch. Then while in my second hour of sewing, I stopped to change bobbins. After doing so the thread continued to brake. First at the needle, then the tension felt like it was getting took tight. I put in another bobbin, changed the needle, changed thread, cleaned the bobbin assembly, all of this many times over. I had to walk away from it over the holiday season and have just gotten back to trying to get it up and running again. This morning I noticed I have lent under the hook race, I have tried many things to get it out. Plus listening to the machines you show, this one while running slow sounds like the bobbin case is rattling a bit, but just at slow speed. Do you have a suggestion as how to remove the lent or a comment as to why the case sounds like it rattles? Thank you so much for your time, the many videos and comments have a wealth of knowledge involved. Again thank you.
Hi Rhonda. Congrats on your 500. A nice machine. There are a few recommendations I have for you about cleaning, thread breakage, bobbin case rattles and overall power. Too many to list here I think. On my "About" page I list my channel email address for questions like this that are more complex. It is andytube53@gmail.com. If you want to email me there I can reply with some things to try to solve your problems. I can also send documents about your machine. If you do email you may want to attach a picture of the lint in the "race" and any little video of what is happening. If you are not comfortable with that, then here is a list of some videos that may help. I don't know if you have seen them or not. Good Luck either way.
th-cam.com/users/edit?o=U&video_id=Sn2XD4EILFM
th-cam.com/users/edit?o=U&video_id=OqZZ-uhnAMY
th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX.html
th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKL6ePPxLpmnWSzTyxPKTb71.html
Thank you Andy for the information and illustrations. It will help my rehab of the 503a soon.
Very welcome, Paul.
Hi Andy, this is a great timing video. As always. Thanks, Dee Shilow
thanks
Thanks! This helped me fix timing issues on my Singer 560. It is a little different but the I was able to adapt the information to the design og the 560.
I'm glad you found the video, and thanks for keeping your machine in service.
Feed dogs at bottom,needle hook shank just rising and hook point 1/32" away. Got it.I went to Singer School in Tennesee. Back in 87.
Congrats! Why are you not making videos?
Thank you for this comprehensive lesson! A lot of great info here and now I understand what's going on. fyi, Instead of a piece of 2x4, I use a piece of a pool noodle and so far it has worked well without slipping.
Welcome to Andy Tube Elly. Thanks for leaving a comment. Pool Noodle? Who knew! Now I do and love the idea. Kind of you to share.
Hi Andy, thanks for showing the step-by steps instructions to get the timing needles in line with the threading spool. I also have a Singer Heavy Duty Model 288 which I have been using for over 30 years and this is the first time I have the timing problem. I will let you know if this works with my machine 288. Looking forward to talk to you soon.
Your model 288 has a different hook drive system than the machine in my video. Instead of gears, it uses a timing belt and pulley system. It is actually easier to time your 288 than my 503. Here is a video showing how to time a belt/pulley hook system;
th-cam.com/video/pANycD90wQg/w-d-xo.html Good luck, and thank you for watching my channel.
Hi Andy...couldn't you loosen the set screws on the gear at the bottom of the hook shaft and then just rotate the hook ring assemble until the hook tip is aligned with the needle? This way the horizonal shaft doesn't have to move ,which will keep the needle in position.
It seems counterintuitive to set the timing as in my video. I get that, and some machines with timing belts you can do as you describe. Give it a try and see, but also take a look at page 15 of the Original Service Manual for Models 5001/503A which you can download FREE from the Sewing Dude at this link: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf
Thanks for watching my channel and take care.
This is handy! It would not have occurred to me that loosening the gear will change how it meshes! Thank you for the tips on what to look for to do it correctly!
Welcome :) It is rare that the timing gets off on a machine like this with metal gears. I could tell the set screws on the gear had been worked on. I'm guessing someone thought they had a timing issue and ended up really having one after trying to adjust it. Fortunately, it is easy to re-set the timing.
Thanx Andy. This video helps with the understanding of components and its function. I have a front loading bobbin Empisal Pacesetter 10 and could use this logic to set my hook placement even though the gearing systems are different.
It is kind of you to share this info on my channel. Thank you for that. ✨
Thank you so much for this video! I have a 500A Rocketeer. Not only did it solve my problem but it also fixed my zigzag which hasn't worked since I got the machine. Also, I didn't have any WD40 but plain white vinegar loosened my screw!
You are welcome, Rachelle. I'm glad you have your machine working better now, and thanks for the tip about the vinegar!
Wow thank you I will try all of that tomorrow and watch those videos that you told me about and I will do my best and I will get back to you thank you so much!
👍
good luck
Thank you very very much Andy. Your tutorials are very useful, especially, with my Singer 248. You’ve saved it from being thrown away and it’s working well now. 😁👍
Keep up your good work!
I'm very happy to hear that. Thank you for sharing. It is a very versatile machine from 1977.
If you like, here are some documents to help you keep it running smoothly.
Instruction manual: www.singerco.com/uploads/download/a79240489cb7c4349c6a33b61f0e5b92e3e0384c.pdf
Parts diagram and list:
parts.singerco.com/CPpartCharts/2_2999/242_247_248.pdf
Thank you for explaining a detail that has eluded me for years. I have a 503a which had timing problems when I got it. But not knowing anything about the needle height setting I reasoned about how it should be able to work and after some adjustments on the wrong end of the hook gear train I managed to get it to work pretty good, not great. I also found many loose set screws in the gears and shafts. So I'll have to do a check up on the whole unit.
My pleasure, Paul. Your experience is very familiar to me and what I did the first Model 404 timing issue I had. Nice to know the recommended method now. When set screws are loose it can cause the gear to move on the shaft too, which can give you too much play in the gear/shaft. If you wish to, you can follow this link and download a free copy of the original Singer Service Manual for your machine >> sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf
It is in PDF format and 46 pages of adjustments and remove/replace methods for the 500A and 503A Class of machines. Thanks for the comment, Paul.
Hello, FYI I follow your 503A videos as a guide to fix series 600 Touch and Sew machines (600E and 628) and the methods of adjustment and repair apply to these machines also! Thanks for the detailed information.
I'm glad you found the videos, Debora. I pinned your comment to the top in case other Touch & Sew model owners stop by here. Thanks for sharing this info on my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Your pin confirmed I was at the right video. I got my 50 year old 626 running. Thank you. FYI I was having heck of a time putting in the bobbin case and finally realized that the gear under the bobbin winder driver was out of alignment. Once I fix that I was able to set the timing, etc. Thank you
@@flipper9770 Nicely done! Thanks for keeping the machine in service.
I've learned that if it has a bobbin hook like that or one of the other setting the timing is usually almost the same except for the way you do it
It's easy now to figure out how to time any of them you just move a gear on a shaft or you move a lever on a gear or whatever you're moving something on something to get it to be right thanks for all your videos I can do it without looking now
Andy, I restored my 401a, but I really didn’t like the way it was stitching. So I decided to go back and check some of your fine tuning videos for the stitch quality. I noticed that I had not checked the Check stop on the tension knob. However, the tension on the knob is perfect. Also, I didn’t check the timing. Duh! Well I’m on the yellow brick road again to fix my 401A.
Hi, Dee. Sure, you can always check the timing to see if it is off. If the timing is off it usually means you will have skipped stitches, so if that is your problem you are on the correct path. If it is more a quality problem or malformed stitches it can be a few different things. Even a slightly crooked presser foot can create problems. See page 164 of the service manual for testing that. A couple of times I have found the lifters and followers around the cam stack were so dirty or out of adjustment that the follower was riding on two discs at the same time, Man was that some weird stitching. I cover a lot of the cleaning and adjusting in my "trouble" playlist so maybe just take a look at the video titles and see if you think something rings a bell or hints at your problem.
th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html I know you are a patient and methodical troubleshooter and hope you find a fix soon. Take care.
Thanks Andy, for another helpful video. I’m glad to hear that I can check the timing on my 401A using this procedure. I’ll have to watch this video a few more times to build up my confidence for working with the. stop screws that you said were easily stripped. Thanks again.
Sure Dorothy, welcome. Luckily machines with metal gears don't go out of timing as often as ones with belts and pulleys. I always use penetrating oil on the screws before trying to remove them. Sometimes I have to apply heat too, like a hair dryer. Using a hollow ground screw driver that fits the screw very well makes it much less likely of strippig the screw. HopeFully your timing is ok. If not just take your time and you can do it. Thank you for commenting.
Thank you Andy so beautiful work you did ...Cheers..
Very nice of you to say so. Thanks very much.
Thank You Thank You for the motivation and all the best instructions.
Wow, thank you for commenting and your interest in sewing machines.
Thank you for this video, I bought a 503A in March and the thread gets stuck in the bobbin, and got worse. I followed your video to the tee and so far so good. I love this machine but it is my first vintage.. So I am learning how to use it a little at a time, and maintain through your video s, thankx
You are welcome and I'm glad you found my videos. I hope you enjoy your Rocketeer and thanks for saving that machine.
I LOVE YOUR VIDEOS. VERY USEFUL.
Thank you very much! I'm glad it helped. Hope to see you again.
Thank you SO MUCH for this video, it’s amazing! I’ve watched so many videos on how to fix timing, and they are always missing steps. For example, explaining the timing marks is helpful since as a beginner I never knew there was such a thing! The way you zoomed in so that we could see all of the fine details was so helpful! The bad news is, I was almost done and tightening my gears back up when by old gear broke. :-(. So I saved your video because I’ll have to start all over again when my new set of gears comes in. :-)
Ouch. Sorry about your gear, but at least you have a handle on replacing it. Maybe it is better it happened now rather than during a big project? Best of luck to you, and thanks for your comment.
Andy Tube fail #2 :-(. I’ve got a whole new set of gears, but my hook ends up in a different position every time I rotate the wheel. All I can conclude is that I’ve either got the positioning of the gears “off” or I’ve mixed up one of the gears. I couldn’t find anywhere to identify which gear went where, so I did my best to match them with the old ones. I may have mixed something up. I’m going to ask the hubby to look at it, and if he can’t figure it out then I’ll have to decide whether to invest more money into it or cut my losses. :-(
@@tammysperling1160 Are you working on a model 503A? It is true that the gears must be correct and matched. You must also be sure that the needle bar is set at the correct height before testing or setting the timing.
Andy Tube it’s a model 636. I checked the needle bar height according to your video and I believe its at the correct height.
@@tammysperling1160 OK, so plastic gears. Here is a link to a FREE copy of the original Singer Model 636 Parts Diagram: parts.singerco.com/CPpartCharts/6_6999/636E3_636E6_636E7.pdf
It shows the part numbers for the gears. You see that all four of the gears on the bottom of the machine have a different part number, so if they were swapped it may have an effect. I don't know if your new gears have part numbers on them or not. My other thought is that if you moved the horizontal hook driving shaft that may have created a problem. I'm thinking that shaft is timed and if you changed timing it may be affecting things also. So, maybe both problems; wrong gear in the wrong place and shaft not timed now. I'd like to refer you to Terry's TANDT REPAIR site, where he has parts, guides, and manuals for the T&S models, among others. I see he has a gear replacement and timing guide you can download for $9.95. I have used some of his guides over the last 4 years with good success so it may be worth it for you. Terry's has a discount coupon for Andy Tube viewers that will give you 20% off everything you buy. The code is andy-h-yt and is good for the rest of 2019 and can be used multiple times. Here is the link to the page I want to show you:
site.tandtrepair.com/600TandSstuff.html I know you have been working hard on your machine there, and maybe this will help you complete the project. Thank you for saving that nice vintage Singer sewing machine. Good Luck.
Your video was clear and very informative. I have a Singer 603E, my thread catches but the needle touches to bottom carriage when all the way down. I'll check the needle bar position and timing. Thank you for your detailed video
Thank you, Frank. You are on the right track if you are having needle strikes to the bottom of the case/hook. Bar height mostly but also timing can affect that. Thanks for watching and good luck.
Best example thus far of all the videos I reviewed. My machine is a singer 360, purchased in 1981. Has been a charm up to recently, when I pulled it out to sew masks. The problem I am having is not only is the timing belt off but my bobbin holder do not turn at all unless I manipulate it by hand. Then, it doesn't turn by hand a full turn, it jams at half turn by hand. Do you know how I can get my case to turn mechanically?
Those are classic signs of a defective gear. Probably the top gear on the verticle shaft, but maybe both top gears. You can see my video for replacing the gear on a model 457. Your machine may be of a similar design and you could follow the video. (I'm not familiar with the 360) th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html If it looks the same to you you can buy the gear online for < $10. If it looks like my method will not work then I'd take a look at Terry's website and see if he has a manual or guide for your model. store.tandtrepair.com/famase.html You pay and download. Use my coupon if you buy something andy-h-yt you can also email him to ask what he suggests for your model. Your machine has plastic gears and they are going on 50 years old and I am getting this question every day now that people are home sewing. Good luck, Sharon, and be safe.
Excellent video!!!!
Thank you very much!
This is a great video and it can be applied to other machines. I have an Arrow machine and it worked for me.
That's great news, Mike. Thanks for letting us know. I guess different brands use the same mechanical principals. I'm glad you found this video.
Brother machines are completely different but easier----Try this for Brother----th-cam.com/video/_OO0hJHLMFo/w-d-xo.html
Good vedio and good lesson you're a good teacher too. I also have a 503 A , I am from India city trivandrum. Thanks for sharing this vedio for timing a 503A .
Sony Ramachandran
Thank you. I wish I knew the history of your machine and how it got to India. I appreciate your comment.
Thanks Andy for the reply. I got the machine from a sewing machine restoring shop owned by friend Babu 2 year's back . Both of us together restored the machine and my wife is so happy with it. My friend got it from someone who was working in US 10 years back NC213686
Nice! I'm sure your wife loves it. There can't be too many 503A in India I think. FYI Singer started using the "NC" serial numbers in 1961, the last year the 503A was made. It was manufactured at Singer's factory in Anderson, South Carolina, USA. You could say that your machine is from te "most modern" batch. Thank you for sharing with us.
Awesome Instructions! thank you so much!!!!!
Welcome, Michelle. I'm glad you found it. I have 19 more Singer 503A videos in this playlist:
th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX.html
Thanks for watching my channel.
I was able to adjust the timing on my 503A with your easy to follow instructions. When I am lining up the needle with the point at back, and I let go of the hand wheel, the hand wheel moves enough so that the needle and point does not stay lined up. I thought I had the timing set. I did some sewing and it came out of timing. I'm wondering if this is because of the movement the hand wheel makes on its own. Is there a way I can stop the hand wheel from moving, while setting the timing?
Yes, when the handwheel turns the needle will move. Even that tiny amount of "slipping" can move the needle enough that you lost the timing. When I am working on a machine that moves that easily, I wrap a big rubber band around the needle bar and presser bar to keep the needle bar from moving. I start the rubber band on the needle clamp thumbscrew then wrap around both bars 3 or 4 times and end the band back on the thumbscrew. That should hold the NB in place while you tighten the set screws on the gears. You must recheck the timing mark on the NB after wrapping with the band and force the NB back in place if needed by holding the presser bar and moving the needle. Usually, the rubber band is enough to stop movement. Be careful you are not moving the hook drive shaft while tightening the set screws b/c that can move the hook out of place. A third hand is very helpful with all this if you have one 😊 I have also used a plastic cable tie (or two) when I have no rubber band around, then cut the tie with wirecutters when finished. If using the tie, wrap the bars up fairly high and do not use enough strength on the tie to bend the NB.
Hey Andy, I’m not sure if I just haven’t gotten around to a particular video where you talk about dismantling/disassembling a machine for parts but I have a question on what if anything would remain/stay on a 500 that almost finished with taking apart. And then what does one do with the gutted machine? This machine was bought at a garage sale for $5 but it was best for parts, for me anyway, since I already have a working 500. Thanks for any input.
I've never been in that position with a machine. Others told me they just took it to Goodwill. Removed the shafts/gears (made of steel) and sold the cast aluminum body to a recycler. A couple made boat anchors of the body and one used it for target practiv=ce at the range. One said she listed it on Craigslist under FREE STUFF as a curb pickup with a picture and location.
Thanks for your video, I hope to use your information soon. Just wanted to point out WD 40 displaces moisture and can be drying, so parts it is used on should be oiled or lubricated after work is completed. Thanks again!
thank you for watching the video Sandy and I agree with you about WD-40 you should only use it to break free a screw or a part that's stuck it should be cleaned out and the machine re-oiled I've also found the WD-40 dries as hard as a rock because of the additives in it and I have found hundreds of puddles of it in the bottom of the horizontal arm that takes quite a bit of work to get out thanks for sharing that advice and I hope people will see your comment and save themselves the hassle
Wow! I just used this on my 252 Fashion Mate Singer, so I'll wipe it off and get some 3-in-1 oil.
Hi Andy - Where is the needle bar adjustment (front to back) on a 500A. I have cleaned and set all these parts watching your great videos, now if I could get my needle from being so close to the front of the plate, and center it, I would be golden. Thank you
Congratulations on your 500A restoration. Here is what you are looking for.
Go here and download a FREE pdf copy of the Singer Service Manual for Model 500A/503A: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf
Start on page 12 (of the manual, not the pdf) It has the instructions for front-to-back and left-to-right needle position. It is easier with the straight stitch needle plate if you have it, but I’ve done it using the ZZ plate too.
The manual has almost every adjustment possible on your machine in case there is something else in the future.
Good Luck and thanks for watching my channel.
Very patient videos!; my 503A needle bar adjustment appears stuck - cannot move to left, center or right; arm appears bent downward; she always complained of it. Do you have a video etc that details its movement, adjustment etc; thanks!
Not a specific video. You can look thru these two playlists (if you have not already) for videos about the disc driving worm wheel, needle bar driving arm, and vibrating bracket. I show how to remove and replace these and maybe that can help you see how the parts should be. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX.html
th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg.html
You can also download a FREE copy of the original Service Manual for the 500/503 at this link:
sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf
"arm appears bent downward" see if it is in the videos; maybe that's normal or it slipped out of position.
When I get a machine for restoration, cleaning and oiling it properly remove 90% of the problems.
th-cam.com/video/Sn2XD4EILFM/w-d-xo.html
Good Luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks for getting back; found it; p.11 on the service manual to center needle in straight hole, but the left/center/right arm doesn't seem to do anything; with the top off I'm not seeing any range of motion; maybe something is frozen, so I prayed some wd and will try later. I think if could see what the movement range of motion is I can figure it out.
@@splashlos Yes, cleaning and oiling. When you move the LCR lever the needle bar driving arm should move the Vibrating Bracket and relocate the needle. Can you move the stitch width lever normally? That should move the needle bar also. If the needle won't swing left and right in ZZ mode you can push back on the NB to see if it moves. Have you ever oiled the VIbrating Bracket as in the Instruction manual? www.singer.com/search/support?title=503
After you are finished be sure to clean off the WD as much as possible. It dries hard and also prevents grease from sticking to the gears. No oil on gears, only grease. Good Luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 Excellent thanks for the feedback; this was my mom's machine, I'm just getting up to speed on; will look at the video thanks; you;'re a treasure to find on this internet, thank you.
@@splashlos Oh, very nice. A family-owned machine is the best. A nice continuation. You can download a free copy of the Service Manual that shows all the adjustments if you like: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf Good Luck.
yeah i know the feeling i was charged 200 ( australian dollars ) for the fix a few years ago ... now ihave your video to help me i can do it my self ( i changed the feed gear after it was stripped and the timing went out so i had to take it in for the 200 dollar sting ... ha but i have the last laugh now !!!
Hi Maggie! Sometimes the last laugh is the best laugh. Now you know how, will you be opening a shop and only charging 100 AUD? Hehe. I think you will be too busy sewing maybe. Thanks for watching Andy Tube.
Hello Andy, I have made the adjustments to the timing, and believe that that is solved. Now there is another issue, the bobbin case seizes after a few stitches. I have watched the video regarding the clearance between the bobbin case and the holder. If I use the .013 clearance, the machine will stitch for a bit, then I hear grinding sounds. If I use a really wide clearance, it will work for a time, then slide under the holder. What could this be?
So this started after you adjusted the timing? Can you describe better what you mean by "Bobbin Case Seizes"? How few stitches? Grinding sounds? It almost sounds like the bobbin case is not installed onto the hook race.
@@andytubesewing1953 Yes, it started after the timing adjustment. I can run it unthreaded and everything is fine, the minute it is threaded, the bobbin case shifts. I believe the grinding noise is that the bobbin case has been knocked out of alignment. I've checked the tension and that seems ok. I may take the tension disc off next.
OK so only when threaded. You have already set the gap narrow and wide, so I would think of tension too. Some things I have found are: the timing was set with needle timing mark set on downstroke instead of the upstroke, bobbin case threaded wrong, needle threaded wrong, the stroke of the check spring is off, too much upper tension, take-up lever installed wrong. You can adjust the tension unit lower and lower (less tension, by turning the dial knob) to see if that is the cause, but it's always good to have a clean, well-adjusted tension unit. BTW, here is the service manual if you want/need it (free): sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you for your input, I'll have a look at the timing again. I had some issues lining everything up because when I would let go of the wheel, it would rock back a bit. I am learning lots though. Thanks again, Ill let you know how it goes.
@@elmosmiles7239 I've had that same issue before and it's a hassle a couple of times I have velco strapped or wire wrapped the needle bar to the presser bar to keep it from moving that worked fairly well anyway good luck to you
something i think i'll try for working on all my old relics to make life easier because of their weight is make a swivel out of pizza pans & marbles, might make turning machines while working on them an easier process
Interesting idea. Let us know how that goes, please.
@@andytubesewing1953 i'll get back to you on that, got an item that i was gonna chuck premade, think if i switch out castors for swivel ones i have here, it'll do without spending money lol
I have a 500j and a 503j. The 503 is noticeably noisier. I believe the sound is coming form the bobbin area. Occasionally, it will miss a stitch sewing light leather, and once in a while on other materials. I've checked/adjusted the thread clearance, checked/cleaned/adjusted the thread tension-er. It has a tendency to fray some types of thread, more so the heavier ones. I've used denim needles, and leather needles, with little change. The bobbin area remains noisier on the 503 than the 500. The noise can be heard as the thread passes over the bobbin holder area, and the bobbin holder moves slightly, within the clearance tolerances. Can this delint pin lead to a noise in this area, and possible the tendency for thread to be frayed/damaged? The pin appears to be intact and in position on this machine.
Thanks for any advice you may have.
not fqmiliar with a 500j or 503j. Is that a typo? Have you swapped the bobbin cases to see if that is the cause? I had a 404 once with a similar problem and found out the part number on the bobbin case had a " -8 " and was for a different model. When I put in the original part from another 401 the problem was solved. An Andy Tube viewer named Matthew researched the type of problems you are having and removed the delint pin to solve them. He made a nice video and you may find it interesting:
th-cam.com/video/19UA-7Rj8S0/w-d-xo.html
Good luck and thanks for watching my channel.
you don't have a video specific to timing on a Stylist 513 but i've watched all of your timing videos and cannot get mine working...i cannot find a video or manual that tells how and i'd like to know as well how to replace a timing belt and reset that timing on model 513...do you know where i can find resources or help
Here is a link to Terry's webpage where he sells manuals for repair; some factory some that he wrote himself.
store.tandtrepair.com/st4134164185.html
I believe model 513 has 4 plastic gears on the bottom. The gear directly below the hook is the one you loosen to rotate the hook and align it with the needle point when the needle bar is at the correct height. There is no timing belt on the bottom between pulleys, but I think there is a vertical drive belt from the main arm shaft up top. If that is what you are calling the timing belt be sure to email Terry before you buy a manual and ask him if the manual covers the instructions for replacing that belt. His contact info is on the site. I have no idea how to go about replacing the vertical belt but I believe Terry still sells the belt, so he may be able to advise you of the procedure. P.S. I've never encountered a defective vertical "timing" or drive belt.
Another informative video! Thank you Andy:)
Thanks! Glad you like it.
Singer 6217 has 3 marks on the TOP needle bar unlike the others ... Please advise how to proceed with timing adjustment.
I could not say. I've never worked on the model or a NB with 3 marks. Looks like Terry has a service manual for some of the 6200 class models, and timing should be the same for them. Use coupon andy-h-yt for 20% off
site.tandtrepair.com/6233.html
If Andy can’t get to this question, I’d appreciate anyone else reading the comments, who may know, what he uses to shine that machine so beautifully. Thanks
Wax on - Wax off. Here is how I do it th-cam.com/video/oP7ANykRd4s/w-d-xo.html Finished waxing th-cam.com/video/bGwiVZ7GiA8/w-d-xo.html
Andy thanks for the videos, they are great. But my timing is off ,Ive loosen (taken out) the two set screws and the bar still in moving. Any suggestions? Thanks
It's on a 301A btw
Are you sure the timing is off? Just asking. You're better off using my video for model 301A th-cam.com/video/6pAWzJyV0IY/w-d-xo.html Those steel gears get incredibly hot. The grease can seep into the space between the gear and the hook shaft and get "cooked" over and over. Now it's hard like varnish and makes the parts stick together. I use a penetrating oil like WD40 in the screw holes. I also have used heat, like a hairdryer or heat gun to heat the parts and oil to get the cooked grease to soften up. I've had a few I put cotton makeup remover pads soaked in WD40 and left on overnight, then heated and heated in the morning to finally get the parts free. I use old leather yard gloves when the parts are hot. Once things turn you can reset the needle bar height and rotate the hook shaft by hand to get your timing back in line. BTW, here are 38 videos in 2 playlists for working on model 301A th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKI_6fbu3itbd1v4z3uQvvkO.html th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLZyGebzS_oISgesXNyREyI.html
I have a singer 503 I am working on. Yesterday I was able to sew a tight and loose zig zag patching a pair of jeans. Today I am using zig zag on a shirt. It will straight stich no problem. But now on the zig zag it will not catch the right side of the thread. It is in center and new needle, as I used jean needle before. Any idea, the timing seems good and also needle bar height good?
How frustrating. Good idea to check the timing but if that is good here are a couple of basic steps to test. Be sure you have the regular zigzag fashion disc installed and not one of the other 8 discs that came with the machine. Be sure the disc is properly seated on top of the pattern selector. Exercise the selection levers back and forth to the limits. Example: push in the L-C-R lever and raise it top to bottom to top a few times then back to center. Do the same with the stitch width selection lever, moving it left to right, completely from one end to the other a few times, then back to the width you want to sew. Clean and oil the machine as shown on pages 86 to 92 of the Instruction Manual. A free copy is available from the Singer Support page at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=503 Try these things, one at a time, to see if that fixes it. If it does not, you can email me at my TH-cam Channel at andytube53@gmail.com and explain what's happening and any other pertinent info you think might help. We can keep trying more steps to find a solution. Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
Very helpful...Thanks Friend...God bless...doug
Welcome Doug and glad it helped. Thanks for commenting.
We are having trouble with our singer Touch N Sew. Can we film the opened machine and show you how tight it is? I don't know exactly how to explain it.
But if there is a way to show via filming it, let us know if we can. Thank you we love you videos. You explain things very well and not to fast or slow. Jimmy and Leanna Veale, Oak Ridge NJ.
Welcome to Andy Tube. I don't work on the Touch N Sew Models. Just never cared for them. If you watch this video, th-cam.com/video/wC8UVKYO94M/w-d-xo.html
I show a website of a man who worked for Singer and serviced all the T & S models of the time. He has great information on his touch and sew pages and has written guides on how to service and maintain them. He has free documents and he sells the correct parts for DIY repairs. The video also has a 20% coupon for anything from his site. I can't help you, but reach out to Terry and he can enlighten you and put you on the path to fixing your machine. Best wishes.
Andy Tube thank you Andy.
Don't mention it and good luck :)
Trying to get a Stylist 534 reverse timing corrected. I had loosened the cam end to replace gears, now the reverse button not actuating.
site.tandtrepair.com/StylistLine.html Feed System Repair Guide Download $6.95 use coupon andy-h-yt for 20% off
Hi Andy
Please help me fix my bobbing case that is shaking and will not stop. I have an industrial machine. Thanks in advance.
I know nothing about industrial machines, Mary. Sorry
I meant the timing video of yours I just watched. I have loose stitches loop like I haven’t made any adjustments by everything I watched I checked them all and everything looked fine. I watched another video on how to thread this machine, and how to set the bobbin to have Nedel pick it up. It appears the thread binds up on the ring around the Bobben that spins. And if I go front words and backwards the needle appears to click in the thread breaks. This machine has not been used in quite some time, my mother was the last time to use it and she passed away 17 years ago and I believe it was fine then. So I don’t know if I’m just doing something wrong. If you would like me to give you any more detailed information please let me know. If you can see my personal email email me to it. And I could give you my phone number so we could talk at a later date and time. Thanks Fred
So a machine sitting for 17 years can have a lot of dried up oil in the moving parts. It's always a good idea to oil it according to the manual and run it 3 to 5 minutes at slow to medium WITHOUT any needle thread or bobbin. You can download a free manual for Singer at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=503 Follow directions on pages 86 to 91. The ring around the bobbin that moves is called the hook and it has a point that catches the needle thread and carries it around to about 6 O'Clock and releases it so the take-up lever and needle can pull it up. If the needle thread is catching on the hook and not releasing, the thread clearance gap may be too narrow. th-cam.com/video/O7drU1gNKqo/w-d-xo.html
The needle "click" if it is hitting the hook or bobbin case the timing is off. The needle could be out of center. The needle could be bent (frequently found, change needle) Loose thread on stitch is an unbalanced tension. The tension video shows how to adjust the tension assemble. You watched how to thread so I'll assume you got the thread between the tension discs. The bobbin case can be installed wrong. The bobbin case can be threaded wrong. Unbalanced tension can bee too little on top (needle thread tension) and the bobbin thread tension is pulling the top thread to the bottom. When you test sew use two different colors of thread on the needle and the bottom so you can see which thread is or is not pulling correctly.
You can have a burr on the hook or hook point that the thread catches on and then won't release then the next thread coming around the hook gets caught on the first and so on. Test sewing should be with the needle in center position (L-C-R lever) and zero-width/straight stitch at # 10 to 12 length of the stitch. other videos th-cam.com/video/JLYNpmFQ3wQ/w-d-xo.html
It is not spoken of often, b/c it seldom needs adjusting, but the tension spring on the bobbin case can be adjusted if there is too much or too little tension. There can be lint/dirt behind the tension spring on the bottom. Usually, all tension is adjusted on the upper tension for the needle thread b/c you just turn the knob for more or less tension and balance it with the bobbin thread tension. Rethread the needle completely, Be sure you have tension after the tension assembly by lowering the presser bar and pulling on the thread up by the take-up lever. When tension is 1 or 2 you can pull the thread easily as you turn to higher and higher number the thread gets harder and harder to pull. The normal setting of tension is about 3 to 5. be sure the bobbin case is installed in the hook on the hook race properly. Page 88. Be sure you thread the bobbin case correctly. Page 13
Be sure the needle is installed in the correct direction and ALL the way up into the needle clamp. Page 7. and thread the needle front to back. These are just the basic things that can be causing your problems. There are many more, but you have to start eliminating causes one at a time. I have chased a problem like this for days and a dozen adjustments only to try replacing the bobbin case and solving the problem. Don't be that guy, it isn't fun.
Great job you made it look easy AAA+++
Thank you very much
Help me plis.
Why the hook collides whith the needle.
I dont know to do.
Im from EL SALVADOR
AND my sewing maching is model 411g
We don't have the 411G here and I've never seen one in person. I have many requests like yours. Your machine was made in Germany and is most like the model 401A made in the USA. I have 16 videos for Model 401A that may help you adjust your machine.
Here is the Playlist: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html
Also, please go here to download a free copy of the Singer Service Manual for Model 401A: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf Other people with a 411G have told me the 401A manual was very helpful to them. That is all I can say, Morena. Espero que los videos y el manual puedan ayudarlo. ¡Buena suerte!
I have a 13608m Singer sewing machine. I watch the video and check the timing and it seems to be perfect but I’m getting a looped stitch on the bottom of my sewing? So I assumed maybe it was out of time what else could it be?? thanks. Fred
Easy does it, Fred. I'll delete your other 2 comments as they are related, OK? Thanks.
Timing won't cause thread looping. Looping is USUALLY caused by an unbalanced between needle thread tension and bobbin thread tension. Looping UNDER the fabric is USUALLY caused by lack of needle thread tension. This can be because the machine/needle has been threaded incorrectly, the tension unit is dusty/dirty/linty, the tension unit has some oil on the tension discs. You asked if bobbin tension can be changed. Yes, it can, but is usually the last thing you try to correct a tension problem. It is maybe 10 times more likely the problem is the needle thread tension. There is no Singer model 13608m model of machine. That may be a number on a motor or sticker on the machine, like model 327K or similar. You can go to Singer and see their instructions for finding the model number here: www.singer.com/find-your-model
After you find the correct model number you can go here and enter that model number and download a FREE copy of the Singer Instruction Manual for it:
www.singer.com/support Once you have the manual, pull out the thread on your machine and re-run it back according to the instruction manual. Be sure you lift the presser foot before you start threading, and the thread gets between the tension discs. You can also brush, blow or vacuum clean the tension unit if you still have trouble. Because of the odds that it is a needle thread tension problem you want to do everything to correct that before you do anything else. Please do not change the bobbin tension. If you can't figure out the model number you can look at my playlist page to see if I have done a restoration series on a machine like yours. th-cam.com/channels/USPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4w.htmlplaylists?view_as=public
You can also go to this nice site and look at a photo gallery of vintage Singer models to see if you can find your: www.singersewinginfo.co.uk/gallery_machines/
If you want to post a couple of decent pictures of your machine on your TH-cam page then give me a link to them and i will see if I can identify it.
Good Luck.
Unfortunately I do not have a TH-cam page but your reply was fantastic I would love to get you a picture of my machine but I do not know how I am going to try blowing it out with compressed air and putting a very very light coating of WD-40 on some of the moving parts. If you can see my email please reply to it and I can send a picture back to you. Again thanks so much for your reply and all your answers.
Freddy
@@fredA1234 To leave a comment you have a TH-cam account, and that is your page. Click on the camera in the top right and drag & drop your pictures. Don't worry, maybe someday. I would not use wd-40, Freddy. The tension unit needs no oil. Oil is bad on a tension unit. Did you find the correct model number? OK then, use the compressed air and try to clean the unit. I hope you are threading it correctly, and good luck.
I’m getting loose stitches on the bottom of my material and then it seems to bind up and check the tension I’ve done everything by watching your video but I cannot figure it out!
Can you help me!
Fred
Let's get some more info, Fred. Loose stitches on the bottom; like a little bit loose? or loops of thread? bind up and check the tension; the thread binds? the machine stops or stutters? Check the tension how? Done everything by watching my video, this tension video? Could you tell me what kind of changes or adjustments you have done to this point? There are a lot of possible causes but knowing more can help narrow down what to look for and fix. Thanks.
Hello Andy, hru? Is the timing set equal for all Singer or any other sewing machine? Thanks so much for your videos, good luck sir, god bless you.
The principles of timing are that same on all sewing machines. The needle eye behind the hook point and above the point about 1/32 to 1/16 inch. The needle bar height markings and the disconnection point for moving the hook into place can be different depending on the make and model of machine. Here are some more examples of timing; th-cam.com/video/cHkqoYYlvRE/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/pANycD90wQg/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/oHGwdEcYGZo/w-d-xo.html
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks. Yes, mine are a 66, 99 and a 201, they all have 2 horizontal line marks in the neddle bar.
My hook is not spinning on my Touch and Sew 648. I tried to reset my timing and I think I might have loosened a wrong screw in the process. Any ideas of what I might have done?
Hey, my crystal ball is at the cleaners this week. Are the gears on your model steel like the 503A, or are they plastic? You should have only loosened two screws on the right-hand side gear, so I'm not sure what screw was wrong. Did your hook spin before you started to work on the timing? Is this a newly acquired machine you are trying to get going? You get the picture here, right? Hard for me to say what went wrong without having hands on the machine and knowing some background. I asked about plastic gears because they can strip and crack, especially the horizontal gear on the bottom of the hook. That always seems to be the one that goes first. Of course, if you did not tighten things back up then it won't turn properly. You can go to Terry's store and buy the entire Singer Service Manual for the 648 and download it. It's $10, but if you use coupon andy-h-yt before 8/1/2019 Terry will give you 20% off your entire order. You want the SM640 Manual >> site.tandtrepair.com/600TandSstuff.html
That will have all the adjustments on your machine, including the timing.
You can get a FREE copy of the parts diagram here >> parts.singerco.com/CPpartCharts/6_6999/648E3_648E6_648E7.pdf
Gear 163994 near the bottom of page 4 is the hook gear I mentioned. If plastic it can crack, chip or strip teeth, etc.
For general troubleshooting, see the gears at 10:33 in this video? They turn when the handwheel turns the horizontal arm shaft on the top of the machine. When you operate the handwheel by hand, do those gears turn? If not, your trouble is up top. If they turn, does the shaft going to the left towards the hook turn also? (Hook drive shaft) if it doesn't then lose screws, if it does then the gear on the other end should turn and that turns the hook gear on the bottom of the hook. If all that turns then the hook should turn. I know your 648 is a Touch & Sew Model with a "wind-in-place" bobbin system. I do not work on the T&S machine so I do not know if pushing the "bobbin button" to wind the bobbin just elevates the bobbin for winding or does it stop-motion on the hook. Is the bobbin winding system working normally as per the Singer Instruction Manual for Model 648 which is FREE here >>
www.singer.com/sites/default/files/product_manual/a6172931362178d23f294bac5f8cd24f48798c80_0.pdf
Terry at store.tandtrepair.com/ is the most knowledgeable T&S machine expert I know b/c of his experience. He could guide you better than me if you need more help.
My final advice is to dump the 648 T&S at Goodwill and find a nice 403A. But that's just my opinion, haha. Best of luck.
Hello sir nice or informational video . I have singer 8280 modle machine . It's hook or needle suddenly mismatch . Hook bobbin not catch the upper thread ,plz help me . And make a video on single 8280 modle.
Sorry, you have this experience. It does sound like a timing issue. I have no machine like yours; it is many years too modern for me. I can find no repair manuals or service guides for it. I won't be able to offer help, sorry and good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 ok sir fine
I love your videos, however I cant find my problem...are you available to help me figure out why my needle is hitting the bottom of my bobbin plate on my Singer Patchwork 7285Q? Im trying to make masks for family for the Corona Virus and I am at a complete standstill...Thank you!
On a vintage mechanical machine, as I work on, a needle strike to the bobbin case is caused by wrong size needle for the machine, needle not completely inserted up into the needle clamp, loss of timing between the needlepoint and hook point, the height of the needle bar if off, or the hook race/feed dog area is full of lint. Your machine is much newer of course, and electronic so I don't have a clue as to how the items I just mentioned are controlled. The lint, needle size, needle insertion are universal, the other items may be much different and maybe a bad component or control for the pattern. I could not find a service manual for your model. SInger still has a free copy of the instruction manual available: www.singer.com/search/support?title=7285 The only thing in the troubleshooting guide that pertains is the needle not being inserted correctly. It takes the same needle as my machines, catalog 2020, now called 15x1 in sizes 11, 14, 16 & 18. Can't help you more than that. Sorry, and good luck.
Hey, I'm stuck with a set screw on the gear that won't loosen. I've hit it with a hammer, WD-40, duct tape, a rubber band, I even warmed it up with a lighter. I'm so scared of stripping it. What can I do?
Duct tape? I missed that one. I think you have 3 choices. Hit it with a dose of MPD*, or repeat what you've been doing. It's at the point of Patience & Persistence I call it. Your trying to turn the screw at the same time you hammer it. right? I never thought of using a lighter. I just use a hairdryer for longer and longer times. Those gears get VERY HOT 🔥and I believe the screw gets "baked" into the hole especially if oil is in the threads. That oil gets dried, like the gunk on the oven door. Heat is supposed to soften it. I have often laid the machine on its back and put a couple of cotton balls soaked in WD40 and wrapped them with a strip of t-shirt and let it sit for 12+ hours or more. I remove that and if it is still struck I use the heat for 10 to 15 minutes at a time. I've had a couple screws that took days to get out. I don't mind b/c I usually restore the foot pedal or motor while waiting. The 3rd choice is to quit I guess. You are sure the timing is off? That is why you want to loosen the gear screw?
I did have one guy write me that he finally put his 401A in a chest freeze overnight and that worked. He believes it shrunk the screw away form the sides of the hole a tiny bit, *MPD = Magic Pixie Dust ❇
@@andytubesewing1953 thanks! I got it after a few rounds of wd40 and some help from someone stronger than me. It looks like it was all too much because the threads on the screw were way too far gone. The first screw came out and went back in like a dream. It's disappointing but I'm not sure there's any fixing that screw or the machine.
@@EC-fm3vb congratulations I'm glad you got it out I've had to tap out a few screw holes a little bit larger but then I could use a standard size set screw it's a lot of work but whatever you do good luck
Like you I had a less than advantageous experience with my repair place bout cost and decided to look at these vids and knew that by stopping and starting along the way I could do what was suggested. Thank you for the intense hook adjusting because it is not on the video of my machine Singer 750 even though it is a two part series. No fault of Singer but it is missing what problem I have and I have not been able to find anything similar in another vid. I followed the dismantling that was done on that vid and then after replacing the broken gears reversed but the hook stays free and goes out of proper position at the needle. What have I not done? Thank you.
Tom, please take a quick look at this video to get a website and coupon code. On Terry's site you can buy guides that show how to replace the lower gears and set the timing. The coupon is for 20% off anything you buy. Good Luck.
I guess I am the only person in the world to have ever experienced the situation of having dismantled the 750 gears according to the two-part series, installed them, reversed the dismantle process and still have a free standing hook that whirly gigs a it pleases instead of moving according to the gears, etc.?
I doubt that Tom. More like one person of hundreds. I don't work on the T&S Models. That's why I referred you to Terry at TANDTREPAIR.COM. You mention a two-parts series, but I don't know what you mean. The best I can suggest is to contact Terry for help. I have done that several times and always with good results. He knows more about the T&S models than anyone I know.
Question Andy, why would my singer be hesitating to sew? I've changed the belt and the timing belt. Could my motor be going out? Singer model 5050
Can you describe the hesitation more? Hesitate when starting to sew? Or what? Post a video if possible.
I'm also trying to find the type of foot controller your machine uses. it's too new of a model for me to have worked on, but on vintage models it is usually a problem with the foot controller sooner that the motor, especially if the controller is a carbon resistor type. If you can add any more info, please do,
Thank you
Thanks for your interest😊
Andy help, after doing thus exercise, the belt under no longer moves as i turn the handwheel forward. Plus the hook point doesnt turn or move either. When i turn the hookpoint with my hand, the belt under moves.
I have a good idea of what your problem may be, and a solution to fix it. Please look on my "ABOUT" page for my email address and write to me. If possible, include a picture of your machine from the front and a picture of the bottom mechanical parts so I can verify the system. This will be easier than jumping around the comments section. Thank you.
Thank you for the video
Welcome and thanks for the comment.
Thank you, Sir
Welcome. It was kind of you to comment. Take Care.
Hi Andy, Great videos! I have watched a few about timing that you have and trying to figure out if it will fix my issue. I have a Singer Touch & Sew 750. It has not been used in years. We got it oiled up and running nicely. However, as soon as I tried sewing it worked for several stitches and then my needle broke! Looking at where the needle goes down in it appears that it is off because it is hitting the bobbin plate. Not sure the name but it is the part under where the bobbin goes. So searching online this is how I found your videos. Now I think that my timing is off and wanted to try to fix myself. I checked the needle bar and the lines as you mentioned and that seems ok. Do you have a video on how to do the timing for a Singer 750? I thought maybe this video would be closest to it but not certain. Thanks in advance and love the videos!
I'll start by saying I do not work on the T & S Models and I've never touched a 750, but I know what the problem is. The timing was lost b/c one or more plastic gears on the bottom of the machine broke is usually what you will find when this happens. There are a couple videos on TH-cam about replacing the gears and Terry Fielding at site.tandtrepair.com/700TS.html wrote a guide about it and also has the service manuals. Some people tell me the videos worked for them and some the guide worked and some needed both to understand what to do. The gear guide is $7.15 after using my coupon code andy-h-yt and getting 20$ off. Here are the videos I'm talking about:
th-cam.com/video/cYLzGwpoWeE/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/x2acFJeDxwg/w-d-xo.html
You can search online for the gears at eBay and other sites. It is advised to replace all at the same time, but some folks buy the gears but only replace the hook shaft gear. I think that is the one that breaks the most often. This broken gear thing is very common. I've had 50 emails about it in the last 6 months as people started sewing masks. The machine is about 50 years old now and there are about 20 models with plastic gears that I know of. Some people have asked me about it after their local shops wanted $150 to $300 to replace $20 worth of gears. Thanks for watching my channel, and good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you so much! We did manage to figure out how to fix the timing issue using your video instructions. I will look at the other info provided to see about a broken plastic gear. I haven't tried sewing yet but can see it is running properly now and the needle no longer hits. Thanks again!
@@therealpropertyview That's very good news. Perhaps the gear just got some oil on it and slip. (No oil or grease on plastic gears.) Happy for you, Denise 😊
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you! Looks like I spoke too soon....oops. Seems to be out of time again. I think there is oil on the plastic gears too. We will get that cleaned up pronto.
@@therealpropertyview Better to clean off oil than to have to replace gears. Good Luck.
Hello Andy,
I LOVE your videos and I learned so much from you!! You are a great asset to many of us with vintage sewing machines who enjoy DIY projects. I have an issue and I am at my last resort. Wondering if you have an answer to my problem. To give you a background I own a Singer 403 Special, I triple checked the timing of the needle and hook and I also adjusted and triple checked the tension. Everything looks good there. My issue is in bobbin area. The thread hooks fine but soon after it hooks my thread grinds and gets caught with something near the feed dog area. I noticed that the thread slides along the left side of the feed dog. I s that normal. I also see the needle being tugged to the left for a second until the thread magically releases itself. It eventually continues to do what it suppose to do until it does it again randomly in which the thread and it eventually breaks. It gets caught maybe every 5 sec. PLEASE CAN YOU HELP ME??? I would love to send you a video of my problem. How can i do that?
The problem of the week, congratulations and sorry you have this experience. No, it's not normal. I'm trying to picture it but, yes, a video may help. Why not just upload to your youtube channel? It is not hard, and you can make it unlisted (only those with the link can watch) or public (all can watch) Here is a link to videos explaining how to upload: th-cam.com/users/results?search_query=how+to+upload+a+video+to+youtube
Take a look and see what you think. Sending videos via email does not always work well, but we'll see firs if you can upload on your channel.
Hi Andy, I posted a few videos on my TH-cam channel. Forgive me for saying feed dogs "dog feeds". Ha! Hopefully you can do your magic and solve this mystery. I appreciate you solo much!
@@bridgetmanabat6044 Good job, Bridget. I'll take a look at your videos this weekend and comment on them at your channel if that works for you.
@@andytubesewing1953 That will be fantastic Andy! Thank you my friend.
Thank you for this video again. I have to change both hook gears on a Singer 507. Have you made a video that explains the correct replacement, or an istructional pdf? Another question: if I was able to substitute them, I'd have to grease them or the plastic of the gears could spoil in the grease? Apologies for my awful English. Best regards from Italy
Non c'è bisogno di scusarsi, Laura. Il tuo inglese è eccellente rispetto al mio italiano. I do not have, and can not find ANY documents for a Singer Model 507.
No one I contacted had records of this model. There is a popular video on TH-cam showing how to change the gear on a Singer Machine. It is made by a parts seller. You can find it here: th-cam.com/video/qHx6VPdenj0/w-d-xo.html
If you like, you can contact me on my TH-cam Channel email; andytube53@gmail.com. If you send me pictures of the front of the machine and of the bottom mechanical area I will try to assist you. Most Singer models were very similar, whether they were made in the USA or elsewhere. If I see your machine I may be able to find a similar US model and have records and information about it. As to the grease on plastic gears; I do not put grease or oil on plastic gears or parts. Period. I believe oil contact is why the original plastic gears failed. I have been told that there are modern greases that are made for plastic and are OK to use. I have also been told that Tri-Flow clear synthetic grease will not harm plastic gears, but I do not know that from personal experience. Grazie per aver guardato il mio canale, Laura, e buona fortuna a te.
@@andytubesewing1953 Il tuo italiano è ottimo! Thank you for your answers and availability. When I've found that vertical shaft hook gear's teeth were crumbled, I've thought to change only this but making a search on Google it is clear that substitute both is better than only the broken one. I need your support also to choose the gears to purchase. I'll take advantage of your kindness begging your pardon in advance. Saluti dalla Sicilia
I'll be watching for your email. Good Luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 I want to thank you so much for your support. You've helped me to fix my issue. My 507 has breathed again, she has barely escape to be thrown in the trash!
Do you have e advice for a too high needle tension ( just position the tension on 2 the thread is particularly taut)?The problem was previous to gear replacement. Needless to say that I've watched your videos about threading...I hope my 507 will stop to be the source of so many issues...
God bless you
Oh, Laura, thanks for saving that 507 from the trash! Nicely done. These machines respond very well to good maintenance. Once cleaned and adjusted they can last for decades longers. Here is a tension series I filmed that shows more than you ever wanted to know about tension. I explain about the parts b/c I believe if you know what they are and how they are supposed to work then you can spot problems and fix them. Maybe the tension series can help you out. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJaeFB_GW97NsW5GYM7KD9U.html
Gracias. Dios te bendiga.
De nada y que Dios los bendiga y proteja a todos durante estos tiempos
Fantastic video. I would like to ask if its possible that you do a video on the Singer 457 G135
Hi Simon. That is an Industrial (commercial) model. I only work on the Singer Domestic models. Sorry.
Thanks.
You're to turn the final bevel gear clockwise to adjust so that you cancel out gear lash in the drive system.
OK. Thank you.
so would this work on the singer heavy duty 4411/4423? Bc my sewing machine isn't hooking the bobbin thread and I can't find anything to adjust my hook timing with the exact model of mine.
In general, many singer machines use this method. I can't say 100% because I do not have, and nobody I know has, a service adjustment manual for the models you mention. Before I attempted changing the timing I would verify the needle is at the correct height. That can make you skip stitches too. The theory is that as the needle is starting back up from the bottom of the stroke the hook rotates past the needle and grabs the loop of the needle thread. If the hook passes too early or late it missed the loop. So with the needle on the way up can you see where the hook point is? Remove needle plate, bobbin case, etc and look between the toes of the feed dog to see the needle come down and start back up. During that moment the hook should be passing the needle. Many machines are adjusted like in my video, but a handful are different. If you try to change the timing, mark how the gear meshes now with a sharpie or permanent ink. If you fail you can go back to your original setting. When you fix it, then sell your machine and get a nice slant-needle or 337/347 vintage machine, hehe.
Here a short little video that shows the idea. I think this applies to your machine?
th-cam.com/video/-uFaiFuS3Mw/w-d-xo.html
Andy i have singer machine 513 needle not catching tread from d bubbling tread
Welcome to Andy Tube Omotayo. Sorry to hear you are having an issue. Maybe you could look at my latest video about timing. It happens to be about Singer Model 413, wgich is the same as the 513 just a different platic panel in front. th-cam.com/video/pANycD90wQg/w-d-xo.html&index=5&list=PLsCOZgzzaiKKVlkxPT9FMTdvUUGj8Ydf8
To me it sounds like a timing issue. If you like, you can go to my "ABOUT" page and find my email address and email me asking for documents for your 513. I can send ylou a free copy of the Original Singer Service Manual for your machine which shows how to do many adjustments and parts removal and replacement. th-cam.com/channels/USPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4w.htmlabout?disable_polymer=1
Good Luck and take care.
First, thank you for your videos - they are incredibly informative.
Question: could it be a timing issue if the hook isn't casting off correctly? I just got a Singer 503a Rocketeer, and I'm struggling to get it to work. Checked for burrs as you instructed in another video and didn't feel any, but grabbing some sandpaper later in any case. The thread does seem to catch a bit as it goes along the top of the bobbin, so that could be part of the problem.
I don't think it is timing b/c timing is the hook point to needlepoint and your machine is catching the needle thread onto the hook point. Be sure you are using a class 66 bobbin. Your model was designed to use and came from the factory with, PLASTIC class 66 bobbins. Many people like to use metal bobbins. Most of the metal bobbins have a height of 7/16" while the plastic class 66 bobbin should have a height of 5/16". Since you said the thread seems to catch going over the bobbin is why I mention this; wondering if you have metal bobbins. Class 66 bobbins have curved. saucer-shaped sides while class 15 bobbins have flat sides. Don't use class 15 in your model either. There are other possibilities as well. The needle thread tension unit has a setting for STROKE & TENSION, and if they're off it can cause a problem also. Stoke & Tension are easy to set. Here is a video of doing that adjustment on a model 403A; th-cam.com/video/t3UqzYRo-cc/w-d-xo.html Here is the tension unit video of the 503A as it is a little different than the 403A, so you can see the difference; th-cam.com/video/OqZZ-uhnAMY/w-d-xo.html If your stroke is off the takeup spring can be putting tension on the thread too early, making it taught as it drags over the bobbin. One last thing is the timing of the take-up lever. It is rare for this to be off and usually b/c someone played with the parts. Here is a takeup lever video for your model and at 19:25 I explain and show about installing the link stud so the set screw that holds it goes on the flat spot of the stud. th-cam.com/video/7-3Cr9neZTc/w-d-xo.html That is what times the takeup so after the hook casts off the thread the takeup lever starts pulling the thread slack up out of the fabric. If the timing is off the takeup can start pulling the thread too early making it drag and catch on the hook and bobbin. Check/try your bobbin first, then stroke, and let's see what you find. Good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 I was about at my wit's end and knew you would have some great ideas to help me. My machine came with a single metal bobbin, but I tried a plastic one I had in a Singer 57825 that was slightly domed, and that did help stop the issue I had before of the thread catching when hand cranking, but my top thread snaps after a couple stitches with the pedal, so I'll need to dig into your tension videos and the others you mentioned. I also ordered some plastic class 66 bobbins since I don't know for sure what ones came with my other machine. I'm not giving up...I really want to get this beauty running. I'll keep you updated! Again, thank you. I never imagined I would be taking apart a sewing machine almost twice my age to hopefully get it fully functional again, but I'm trying now, and I definitely wouldn't be doing it without your help!
@@briannaburdett1295 You're learning some good troubleshooting methods, and that is part of working on vintage machines. Yes, it may be too much thread tension, but it may be the way you threaded the upper path, or the way you wound the bobbin, (uneven or too loose or tight), or the condition of the bobbin case (dirty, linty), the thread too big for the needle, bent needle, wrong class of needle, too much tension on the bobbin case tension spring ( th-cam.com/video/HT5XZ5eYYEQ/w-d-xo.html ) and so forth. I think all these variable situations are why I came to cleaning and oiling the machine completely before troubleshooting. That seems to eliminate about 90% of these weird little problems. It seems like a lot of work to remove some parts, pretreat, wash, dry, and lube the machine, but in the long run, it has saved me time and a lot of aggravation and it's always rewarding to have a clean, nice-smelling machine. th-cam.com/video/kXZHksK7rGQ/w-d-xo.html Here is an article I bookmarked last year about thread breakage. blog.treasurie.com/sewing-machine-thread-keeps-breaking/
@@andytubesewing1953 I cannot thank you enough. Switching to a plastic bobbin, cleaning, and oiling made a big difference, but it still felt off. The stroke + tension video was exactly what I needed, and I got that reset, so now my stitches are beautiful! Thank you, thank you, thank you! I'm going to keep this beauty in tip top shape following your care and maintenance videos.
@@briannaburdett1295 I'm so glad you persisted with the problem. Too many people give up just before they find a solution. You've sure learned a lot by working on your Rocketeer and I bet you feel very rewarded by seeing those beautiful stitches. It's such a nice model. Sure, just do normal maintenance and it will last for decades longer. It is about 60 years old now, so if the motor starts to seem sluggish here is an easy way to speed it back up for about $10. th-cam.com/video/pzq4tv8qn94/w-d-xo.html I wish getting some pep back in myself was that easy 😉 Thanks for sharing the news and your experience can encourage other viewers to work on their machines, too. Happy sewing.
What screwdriver set are you using, my harbor freight set is working but I could use a better set
Thanks
M L Rogers Pasadena, TX
Howdy, Michael. The set in this video can be found here: chapmanmfg.com/products/9600-starter-slotted-bit-set
This is my video about them in 2017 when I first got it: th-cam.com/video/KnrvDZeaYj4/w-d-xo.html
This is the other set that I bought in 2019: www.btibrands.com/product/professional-gunsmithing-screwdriver-set-43-pc/
This is my video about it: th-cam.com/video/7_DHIC6eskc/w-d-xo.html
The Wheeler set is a better bang for the buck, but I use both of them and the bits on the Chapman set seem stronger and come with a lifetime guarantee and made in the USA. The little mini-rachet is worth its weight, believe me. The Wheeler handle is more comfortable and the bits/handle are magnetic which is nice. As mentioned in the second video, many of the parts are interchangeable between the sets. Thanks for watching my channel, friend, and take care.
My Fashion Mate 360 needle is not going up and I took it to a repair shop and she told me it was the clutch but she didn’t want to repair it. Now I am not afraid to try to fix it my self. I have the hand wheel off but not sure what to do next. I don’t want to junk it. It a good old machine built in Italy. Can you help me please.
I do not have a service manual for Model 360, but all singer machines have a "clutch". It is a washer system. The washer is between the stop motion knob (also called stop motion screw, handwheel knob or clutch knob) and the handwheel. When you turn the stop motion knob toward you, while holding the handwheel, it takes the pressure off the washer. Without pressure on the washer the motor, or belt, can only turn the handwheel itself. You do this to wind a bobbin, as the bobbin winder will turn, but the needle bar, hook and feed dog will not. When you hold the handwheel and tun the knob away from you it applies pressure back on the washer, so it acts like a clutch making contact with the horizontal arm shaft and supplying motion to the needle bar, hook and feed dog, If the repair lady said something is wrong with the clutch then perhaps the washer was installed wrong; either backwards, or upside down. Here are 2 videos that show removing and installing the handwheel, along with the washer and knob. It is not your model 360, but the principle is the same.
th-cam.com/users/edit?o=U&video_id=eZiMaaka5HE
th-cam.com/users/edit?o=U&video_id=hHl96WL1kzA
Here is a video showing a knob similar to yours. Watch @1:20 and @ 10:40.
th-cam.com/video/wxSpdaZBLk4/w-d-xo.html
You can download a free Model 360 Instruction Manual here:
www.singerco.com/uploads/download/679_360.pdf
If you need more help, email my channel email at andytube53@gmail.com.
That would be a better way to communicate about this problem. Good Luck
That's my late mother's machine. Mine is an Athena 2000, with a similar mechanism.
You both have top of the line taste in Singer machines! Interesting the changes in models from her generation to yours. Singer was a pioneer in the electronic sewing machine and I guess almost all modern-day models are electronic. I have never seen an Athena or TouchTronic machine in person let alone worked on one, but if I did then Terry would be my go-to source about them:
site.tandtrepair.com/Athena2000.html Thank you, Adina, for watching my channel.