Thanks for posting this detailed video that I just found while my '16 Explorer sits in my garage waiting for me to figure out this. You just greatly aided in that.
Bryan - thanks for this well done video. I spent two days looking around the firewall for options and decided that your suggestion was the best. I do not like the ideal of going through the floor and outside of the vehicle as suggested by other videos. I have a 2016 XLT that does not have the inverter module. In my case, all I had to do was drop the black cover (with the three 7mm bolts) to expose the grommet. I did not have to remove the glove compartment, airbag, kick panels, or any of the miscellanous connections. I am only running a single 10 AWG, so poking a small hole to pass it was not that hard. I pushed a 14AWG solid wire through the grommet, taped it to the 10AWG in the engine bay and pulled it back through. A couple suggestions for others. The rubber drain bladder is indeed used for draining water from the cowl area. Flex the bladder while sticking your finger in the bottom hole. Make sure it's not clogged up with leaves and debris (mine was). If this gets backed up, you run the risk of water getting into the interior. There is a matching bladder on the drivers side that is not easy to get at without using some long tools. Both bladders are just loosely hanging in their holes. If you move them around too much, you run the risk of pulling them out and having to disassemble the cowl. Behind the driver's side bladder is an unused grommet (on my '16 XLT). I spent a ton of time trying to make this work as it would be shorter power run into the interior. You will not be able to get your hands in there (my tiny wife couldn't get her hand in there) since the ABS unit and main wiring harness block entry. I was persistent and ended up finding out that there was no way to get past the sound deader and heavy plastic behind the grommet hole. You can't see the grommet from under the dash. I didn't want to disassemble the whole fuse panel hoping I would see it and gave up. The hood release grommet was an option, but looked too small on the engine bay side to pass a wire through. To me, the rear washer fluid grommet works the best for a firewall pass through. I thought about drilling, but there still isn't any real obvious spots. If I'm going to drill I want easy access on both sides.
I have a 2019 explorer sport and i found a grommet behind the fuse box where the hood release cable goes through the firewall. Might be easy that way than taking out the glove box and airbag. Now it might be the same with previous models.
Thank you for posting this. I have a 2013 explorer with the same setup and was trying to find a way through the firewall. Thanks to u I now have a route. So happy. 👍
This was perfect step by step instructions!!! I followed to a T on my 2018 Ford Explorer limited. Only issue is since I disconnected the air bag- the airbag light is now on. I’m sure a reset with a scan tool should work.
I had that problem also with the knee airbag. Turned out I hadn't seated the connector well. Might drop it and disconnect that connector then reseat it very well. On our vehicles if the airbag light stays on it is seeing an immediate issue. Once the issue is resolved, the airbag light will clear. Glad this was helpful for you! Cheers
Great video. I used it to run a 4 AWG wire and it worked perfect. I got in and out quickly and now want to run a 0 AWG wire. What are your thoughts on me using the 4 AWG wire to pull thru a 0 AWG wire. Any chance? Thanks.
I have the same issue. I have a 2014 Explorer and wanted to add the same lighting as the projector lamps are the worst you can get (dangerous)t . You have to add proper lighting if you wish to drive safely at might. Not seeing your video, I attempted to drill through the firewall. It went through the first layer of metal but I think there is a bunch of plastic stuff like windshield vents. I hope I didn't drill through any of that stuff as I think I stopped in time, we will see. I will do it your way now.
A whole lot of work just to get a wire thru the firewall. Oh for the days gone by when it was easy to get a wire thru the firewall. I wonder if getting a wire thru beside the steering column would work....
@@bjackson1975 I ended up drilling a hole in the floorboard on the driver side next to a cable that passes through the floorboard putting a grommet in and passing my wire through the grommet
Thanks for posting this detailed video that I just found while my '16 Explorer sits in my garage waiting for me to figure out this. You just greatly aided in that.
So glad it was helpful to you! Shout if you have questions along the way.
Bryan - thanks for this well done video. I spent two days looking around the firewall for options and decided that your suggestion was the best. I do not like the ideal of going through the floor and outside of the vehicle as suggested by other videos. I have a 2016 XLT that does not have the inverter module. In my case, all I had to do was drop the black cover (with the three 7mm bolts) to expose the grommet. I did not have to remove the glove compartment, airbag, kick panels, or any of the miscellanous connections. I am only running a single 10 AWG, so poking a small hole to pass it was not that hard. I pushed a 14AWG solid wire through the grommet, taped it to the 10AWG in the engine bay and pulled it back through.
A couple suggestions for others. The rubber drain bladder is indeed used for draining water from the cowl area. Flex the bladder while sticking your finger in the bottom hole. Make sure it's not clogged up with leaves and debris (mine was). If this gets backed up, you run the risk of water getting into the interior. There is a matching bladder on the drivers side that is not easy to get at without using some long tools. Both bladders are just loosely hanging in their holes. If you move them around too much, you run the risk of pulling them out and having to disassemble the cowl.
Behind the driver's side bladder is an unused grommet (on my '16 XLT). I spent a ton of time trying to make this work as it would be shorter power run into the interior. You will not be able to get your hands in there (my tiny wife couldn't get her hand in there) since the ABS unit and main wiring harness block entry. I was persistent and ended up finding out that there was no way to get past the sound deader and heavy plastic behind the grommet hole. You can't see the grommet from under the dash. I didn't want to disassemble the whole fuse panel hoping I would see it and gave up.
The hood release grommet was an option, but looked too small on the engine bay side to pass a wire through. To me, the rear washer fluid grommet works the best for a firewall pass through. I thought about drilling, but there still isn't any real obvious spots. If I'm going to drill I want easy access on both sides.
Thank you for the kind words! Glad it was of some help.
I have a 2019 explorer sport and i found a grommet behind the fuse box where the hood release cable goes through the firewall. Might be easy that way than taking out the glove box and airbag. Now it might be the same with previous models.
Thank you for posting this. I have a 2013 explorer with the same setup and was trying to find a way through the firewall. Thanks to u I now have a route. So happy. 👍
So glad it helped. I know it was long (hated that) but wanted to be very detailed.
This was perfect step by step instructions!!! I followed to a T on my 2018 Ford Explorer limited. Only issue is since I disconnected the air bag- the airbag light is now on. I’m sure a reset with a scan tool should work.
I had that problem also with the knee airbag. Turned out I hadn't seated the connector well. Might drop it and disconnect that connector then reseat it very well. On our vehicles if the airbag light stays on it is seeing an immediate issue. Once the issue is resolved, the airbag light will clear. Glad this was helpful for you! Cheers
Thanks for this video my Explorer is sitting in the garage now waiting for me to do it damn it now I've got no excuses
Happy to help!
Great video. I used it to run a 4 AWG wire and it worked perfect. I got in and out quickly and now want to run a 0 AWG wire. What are your thoughts on me using the 4 AWG wire to pull thru a 0 AWG wire. Any chance? Thanks.
This is awesome
Glad it was helpful!
I have the same issue. I have a 2014 Explorer and wanted to add the same lighting as the projector lamps are the worst you can get (dangerous)t . You have to add proper lighting if you wish to drive safely at might. Not seeing your video, I attempted to drill through the firewall. It went through the first layer of metal but I think there is a bunch of plastic stuff like windshield vents. I hope I didn't drill through any of that stuff as I think I stopped in time, we will see. I will do it your way now.
Glad the video was of some use to you.
Thanks for this video! A lot of work but atleast its a option
So glad you found value!
A whole lot of work just to get a wire thru the firewall. Oh for the days gone by when it was easy to get a wire thru the firewall. I wonder if getting a wire thru beside the steering column would work....
May be another way on other models. This was what I had to do on this year/model. Best of luck.
@@bjackson1975 I ended up drilling a hole in the floorboard on the driver side next to a cable that passes through the floorboard putting a grommet in and passing my wire through the grommet
Think I will just drill another hole in a spot easier to get to, then put a rubber plug in it.
Always an option. Just be careful some spots are double firewall and I’m not sure if there are any lines or cabling in between.
Too complicated. Better use one under the carpet on the driver's side.
Thanks for the helpful reply.
It would be nice if I could hear what you are saying. Speak up!
The audio is perfectly clear. Maybe something on your side. 30,000 views and no one has had an issue. Best wishes to you. Thanks for stopping by!