The fuse diagram on the cover at the 1:30 minute mark also indicates which fuses are hot in which circuits--"Power Socket," "Mirror," and "Cigar Lighter" all have an "ACC" header, "Heater Mirror" is under the "IGN" header, and the "hot at all times" fuses have a "BAT" header. This is extremely useful information, and it would save you the step of having to determine which one is "hot with ignition relay energized," for example. One quick look, and you can likely take a remote turn-on signal from the "Mirror" fuse so that your amplifier or other unit will turn on when the key is in the ACC position. I wish my car had that diagram!! Just recently, I needed to find a true ignition-linked circuit in order to provide a 12v signal to a battery isolator relay. In other words, I had to find a 12v source that would only be energized when the key was in the "On" (and "Start") position but not energized in the ACC circuit. The purpose of this was to have a secondary battery automatically be connected to the starter battery whenever the ignition circuit was energized (so while starting the car, and when the car was running) but not have it connected to the starter battery when the car was not turned on, including when it was in accessory mode. This allows the secondary battery to handle all of the power supply to my audio equipment and aftermarket LEDs when the car is not running, so the starter battery doesn't have to provide power to any big load with the car off, but when the car is on both batteries are running in parallel and are taking charge from the alternator. I ended up adding a fuse tap to the "heated seat" circuit, which I was able to determine was only hot when the ignition coil was hot, by scouring through my car's workshop manual (2017 Ford Escape) but it took a long time to find it. So a simple diagram like the one Nissan includes on their fuse box cover can be invaluable if you're doing something like this. Pretty niche, but I can't be the only one. Just adding this information here in case someone else who is learning this stuff, like me, will find it useful. Good luck!
Another way to make sure you have it connected correctly. Install the fuse that was removed from the fuse block and plug it into the fuse tap where it belongs. Connect the tap into the fuse block. Connect the red lead to your meter and ground the black lead from the meter. Turn on the key if connected to an accessory circuit. If you have power without the secondary fuse installed just reverse the tap. It should have no power until the secondary fuse is connected.
Is there a way to connect a 2 prong onn/off switch to oneof those fuse taps and then connect the switch to another thing? My idea was to make so that i connect 12v switch to the fuse box and it controlls on/off function on a led strip
Dean, you never know who you're going to help or when. In all my years, I never knew that there were contacts on the top of the fuse where you could check with a meter! I always pulled them to check. Thank you for that one.
"Load" and "Draw" work for you. Correct electrical terms are "Line" and "Load". Line would be your 12volt, non fused side. Load would be the accessory, fused side. As an electrician, we calculate "load" to determine the fuse size. No criticism intended. Thanks for making this video. It is very helpful and useful! Now, where can I find the ATMLP fuse taps?
From an old Electronics Tech we normally call it supply side and load side. In Electronics the Power "Supply" is where the supply typically comes from, that or a battery. No criticism meant there as well.
To help make sure you use those, "add a circuit" fuses it helps to find which way it needs to go by leaving the lower fuse out(only have the upper fuse installed) & checking for voltage though the added wire! This way you know you have it installed correctly where each circuit is isolated on its own fuse & only after you do see the voltage you install the lower fuse!
I do a lot of DIY electrical work on my vehicles, and i always tap into the main orange accessory wire in the ignition which is dangerous. Thanks to this video, I can now do it safely using the fuse box tap method. You learn from your mistakes, so far no fires
A lot of what you said I did not understand, but at the same time you gave the instructions in a way that anybody can follow them. Thanks! You've helped me a lot.
This was very helpful. I didn’t know about the "load side" nor did I know that one fuse on a tap should be less than the other. Thanks so much! Glad I watched this, first.
Note that the little contacts on top of the fuse will both show power (unless the fuse is blown), because they have continuity through the fuse element. To find the hot side you have to remove the fuse and test the plugs directly. Also, I can't think of a reason the bottom fuse in the tap would need to have a higher relative rating, unless you're inserting it backwards and making current flow through both fuses to reach the lead. Inserted the right way, each fuse is dedicated for its own circuit and should be rated independently.
This video has probably got to be the best and most informative video that i have seen in comparison to time, information and quality (meaning you just showed what was needed, nothing more and nothing less) Thank you for the information !
@@wolvoman1 It's safer to have it in series, or zig zag like they put it, through the two fuses. That circuit is only meant to handle 10A. Putting it in parallel like they recommend means there can be more than 10A drawn on that circuit, which could burn out a wire or worst case cause a fire.
I have 2013 Suburban and there is Fuse that control TRACTION CONTROL and stability system Need to pull out before towing or Off-roading can I use that bypass instead of pulling fuse out by installing switch on/off to control that? can you explain what the best way to do it clean like you guys as pro thank you.
Oh man, you are a star, I've been looking everywhere regarding what is the load side of one of those fuse holders!!!! Thank you sooooooooooooooooooo much!
EXCELLENT video! You answered all of my questions regarding tapping into fuses AND MORE... These are the kind of informational videos that make youtube great... Thanks brother!
Good video, when i was young and inexperienced installing I did not know fuses had load and draw sides so I caught my 94 nissan on fire. While trying to install a small amplifier. thankfully I was able to rip the wire away before it was too bad. I'm now showing my son how to do things right and your video explained it right on the money. Thanks, B
“Line” is the unfused supply to the power in leg of a fuse - It’s the power line into the fuse. “Load” is the electrical load placed on the fuse It supplies the electrical load connected to the fusible link / aka fuse Draw (current draw) refers to the current drawn from a circuit by a given load. Vary the load and you change the draw. The function of the fuse/ fusible link is to limit current drawn to a level that guage (cross sectional thickness) of wire can carry without getting so hot that it causes the insulation to melt or catch fire. A thicker copper wire can carry a larger current draw and supply a larger electrical power load. Nice video though. 🙏
Great video Linear, explains why, to the point, we can see the work, and no side bar rambling. Video is very useful to me. However, this video is for radios and I am installing fog lights with a relay. I am going to use what I learned from watching this to try to make it where the fog lights do not work unless the key is in the ignition. Now I need to find out how to use an empty relay spot and how to connect the relay.
Very well done video......most informative......I am in the process of checking some Auto Electricians work that I paid for and found some errors that have forced me to check all his work. This video confirms my suspicions. Many thanks .....
Thank you for your video. I'm new to this and it's very helpful, but I have a question. At 2:46 you check for power. Should it read 12 volts, the output of the car battery? Should all of them read 12 volts?
Wow, you should get a grammy for your camera work, lighting, information etc. It is so disappointing to see great content on the web and the crappiest ways to deliver such content, I appreciate the quality of your video in every respect, thank you.
Very informative video! Wish I would’ve seen it yesterday before I installed my halo headlights on the Wrangler 😎 I was searching today to see if the tap needed 2 fuses and you answered my question! Thank you.
if your tapping into an open spot (unused spot) would you need to put the primary fuse in or just the secondary fuse for the new circuit. I'm guessing only the secondary? If im wrong how would you determine what amp fuse is needed for the primary.
@@chrisphillips4761 you choose the fuse based upon the accessory you are adding. Although, consideration of the capabilities of the circuit feeding your chosen location would be a great idea.
One additional item that I would like to know. Do the adapters fit so you can replace the Fuse box covers properly, with the additional height of the adapters, may or may not clear the cover? Many different fuse boxes with different vehicles. So maybe you end up creating a slot/hole in the cover? Pigtail also needs to be fished out of the box somehow? Nice video and thanks.
Great video. This will prevent me from making a major mistake when I add a circuit for fog lights. At 3:05 on the video you mention open spots in the fuse box. If I find an open spot that is switched and want to use it how do I connect a wire to the bottom draw side of the box?
Wow I thought I knew how to do this, I guess I've been lucky in the past I didn't burn anything up, the load and draw info is invaluable. Thank you for a short consise video, the music could go though, your good enough without it.
Hey thank you for this I never knew these existed I always just ran a wire around the fuse and I always thought that looked sloppy. Now it’s nice and cleanly done thank you. I added two charger ports on the back of my armrest for my rear passengers so I don’t have to figure it out from the front plugs
if someone needs to know how to make proper tutorials and explainations, they should learn from you sir! you sir are the best! love to watch all of your videos!
It doesn't matter if you are just replacing a blown fuse. If you watch the video he shows with the volt meter how to ck. Basically put the black lead on a ground and touch the fuse block connections. The one with voltage s the load
Wow. I was about to snap. I jus bought a used challenger rt and decided to throw a better stereo in it. I’ve installed more aftermarket stereos than I can remember but never have a run into this. I start wiring my harness and the dodge harness has no 12v switched wire. At first I thought it was a mistake made by the factory. Nope apparently stock stereos in newer cars just run on hopes n dreams. Anyway I was about to give up hope and then I found this. Thank you so much. I hope you still actively make videos. I’m gonna follow for sure. Thanks again
Well done just like the first two guys I didn't know either I learn something very valuable I'm going to put in a backup camera I'm glad I watch you guys first thank you very very much
Thanks man, solved my problem at 4:06 I was installing power seat on my mk2 santa fe, seat worked when connected straight from battery, but when I plugged into fuse box it didnt work all problem was that I needed to flip fuse tap and it works 👌
Great job and taking the time to do the video. The only thing I would suggest is to correct the terminology so people aren't confused. The "LOAD" is the device that you are protecting with the fuse that "DRAWS" power. The "SOURCE" is the power "SUPPLY" that provides the energy to the circuit. For ease if conversation the following terms can be interchangeable. SOURCE=SUPPLY=POWER=Battery LOAD=DRAW=DEVICE=CIRCUIT=Amplifier or dash camera
Thank you!! I had an auto vox dash cam installed and it recorded a crash involving my vehicle. I had to troubleshoot because i had bought a new model of the same vehicle. Whole new fuse type and everything. You video helped out alot with the load and which side go where. Much appreciated.
Where can I find the brass fuse tabs that you showed as an alternative to the add a circuit? I tried looking on Amazon but I'm not quite sure the exact verbiage to search for.
Hello five star stereo I want to thank You guys for the great videos . My old car had no stereo or wires I could use . Thanks to your videos I was able to locate a ground a constant and did the fuse box adapter for ignition power and now I am jamming thanks. Hey Fernando Puro Pinche Parri!!
why are you calling the side that leads to the battery "load" ? One of the few things I remember from my degree as an electrical engineer is that "load" means the path heading towards the device that is using the electricity, not the source of the electricity electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/95874/when-people-talk-about-a-device-drawing-current-what-do-they-mean-why-do-dev
David Aliprandi I was wondering the same thing. no engineering degree... just a guy trying to keep things straight in the face of non standard terminology. I believe it's line for power from the battery and load out, correct?
well he probably doesn't have electrical engineering degree(otherwise he is the most over qualified car electrician ever) and simply meant the 'Hot' side.
So, for clarification for this non-electrician, should I place the fuse tap for my aftermarket stereo ignition wire on the side that registers voltage on the meter or the side that does not register voltage?
@@texasknowhow3143 think of load as it's loading power to the fuse. Draw means it's drawing power fr the fuse. If you connect your accessory to the load (hot) side then you're essentially bypassing the fuse. Connect the device to the draw side. So if the fuse blows the power between the load and draw is broken. When connected to the draw side it will kill power to the device. If you improperly connect the device to the load (hot) side and the fuse blows it will still give power to the device because it's connected before the part of the fuse that breaks which is what actually what kills the power . In other words. Connect the device or remote wire to the side of the fuse that doesn't get 12v power
Just a quick question please mate. Regarding the fuse tap at 7:16 into the video, how would I. Know which is the draw side and what is the lid side on that. I have been able to find the lid and draw side in the fuse box, but not sure which way I should put it in.
You will need some type of circuit tester. He used a voltmeter. I have a $9 AutoZone tool with a very sharp pointy tip. The tool has a see-thru clear plastic handle with a lamp inside. While the ignition is ON, sticking the pointy end into one of the receptacles in the fuse box, (or the tiny holes at the fuse end like he did at 3:21 ) the lamp comes on. THAT side of the receptacle or tiny hole is what HE calls the LOAD side. (You can think of what HE calls the LOAD as directly connected to the positive side of the battery. What HE calls the LOAD side is where you should add the new gadget.
chadwick thurmond I was wondering the same thing. no engineering degree... just a guy trying to keep things straight in the face of non standard terminology. I believe it's line for power from the battery and load out, correct?
The sum of both fuses should ideally be at most the fuse value that was originally in that location as to not draw more current than the vehicle wiring was designed for.
I know you explained very well but I want to make sure I'm going to install a backup camera on a Honda pilot I believe the backup light fuse is #9 in driver side is this where I would use the fuse tap and run the wire to the head units reverse wire ?
Brilliant video :) As stated the top fuse (new circuit) has to be lower than the bottom fuse. Is it OK to have the same on both top and bottom for example 25 top and 25 bottom?
Hey, sorry to highjack this old conversation... If the fuse im tapping into is seat heating (which my car doesn't even have) there most likely won't be a problem if i have top and bottom fuse 15 & 15 amps? the tapped fuse would be for a dashcam which draws less than ~5 amps...
Pointing to the load / draw side on a FUSE instead of where the FUSE PLUGS IN, confused me, I'm often pretty dim. You could say power source or to battery side etc., for dummies like me. After I figured that out it is an excellent vid. Thank you,
not gonna lie, when I was in high school I used to do the wrap thing around the fuse then cram it back in..... I'm an adult now lol, but thanks for the tap info
Any advice on older European cars with the torpedo type fuses? I’m guessing you would just connect the positive directly to the prong that cradles the fuse.
OMG I was dealing with all these issue today. Found out the hard way my car take ATM LP. Then I was told it didn't matter what fuse went in each hole. Also my car manual doesn't have layout of my fuse box and it's a 2018 Nisssn. I even went to a Auto store and told them that the top lights up in the bottom doesn't they act like I was crazy I was totally confused . Totally frustrating day. But after finding this video tomorrow will be a better day. Thank you.
Why do people add MUSIC to their videos making the SPEAKER HARD TO HEAR???? Oh My God it is EXCRUICATING trying to listen to the speaker with the MUSIC....
lol just be patient and look at what your doing there's a whole lot of ways to do something and once you hit a dead spot start over and see what can be done easier for fitment " PATIENT " lol good luck safety first
i found these little guys lol www.amazon.com/FUSE-250-MALE-DISCONNECT-TERMINAL/dp/B00GWS4YLA/ref=sr_1_18?crid=DVF8P9Y1LDIX&keywords=atc+fuse+tap&qid=1576288866&sprefix=atc+fuse+%2Caps%2C206&sr=8-18
pissed off it like having a wall outlet that weirdly has only one outlet. You add an extension cord (fuse tap) to create more outlets. In this case, you add a fuse tap, you now have 2 instead of one opening. I suck at explaining lol
Good stuff, I also wasn't aware of the fact that it mattered which way you place your fuse tap load or draw side, thanks for the useful info. thanks again.
Thanks for posting... right at the 7:10 mark through to you are using the terms "load side" (when pointing to the supply side) and "draw side" (when pointing to the load side). Please, correct me if I am wrong here, but the load side is the one the pigtail is on, and the 12v+/supply side is opposite that, correct? I'm from Central & Western U.S., and "supply" always refers to the 12v+ side, and "load" always refers to the load... using the term "draw" instead of load seems needlessly confusing. Or am I missing something?
Thank you this is very helpful to know before I try to hard wire a dash cam to my car. Like the comment below I had no idea there was a load/draw side, I'm really glad you explained that part! Also the bit showing how to test with a volt meter, other videos say to do that but they don't show how to actually do it. Not everyone is good with electronics, thanks for showing this part!
Blue Rabbit I am going to be doing a hardwire dash cam to my car too. Hanging wires looks like hell! How did you make out? What fuse amp sizes did you use? (I am using a tap in a 15A cig lighter) . Please let me know!
@@canadude6401 Hi, sorry I ended up just tucking the wires under the top and side panels in the end. There are no visible wires apart from the cigarette lighter connector so it doesn't look bad at all. I do intend to do it properly one weekend when I have time but for now I've done it the lazy way due to lack of time! Good luck with your hardwiring :)
I am glad to know of these adapters now, thank you. But fyi its line side and load side. Line side is always your hot side and load is what ever side something is pulling a load on it, im sure your like me and would like to know.
Best walkthrough for this I've found very detailed and clear explanation. Thanks very much just did some footwell lighting my first "mod" love it cheers man
From what I am reading it only matters that the add a wire is attached properly....the fuse itself will blow if overloaded no matter which way the fuse numbers are turned
Thank you for the video Might be a silly question but what do i do with the negative cable ? I just wanna add a uhf radio , ofcourse has a positive and negative cable coming from it . Positive to the power but where would be the best place to earth it ? No sure if I'm clear enough, thanks
The fuse diagram on the cover at the 1:30 minute mark also indicates which fuses are hot in which circuits--"Power Socket," "Mirror," and "Cigar Lighter" all have an "ACC" header, "Heater Mirror" is under the "IGN" header, and the "hot at all times" fuses have a "BAT" header. This is extremely useful information, and it would save you the step of having to determine which one is "hot with ignition relay energized," for example. One quick look, and you can likely take a remote turn-on signal from the "Mirror" fuse so that your amplifier or other unit will turn on when the key is in the ACC position. I wish my car had that diagram!!
Just recently, I needed to find a true ignition-linked circuit in order to provide a 12v signal to a battery isolator relay. In other words, I had to find a 12v source that would only be energized when the key was in the "On" (and "Start") position but not energized in the ACC circuit. The purpose of this was to have a secondary battery automatically be connected to the starter battery whenever the ignition circuit was energized (so while starting the car, and when the car was running) but not have it connected to the starter battery when the car was not turned on, including when it was in accessory mode. This allows the secondary battery to handle all of the power supply to my audio equipment and aftermarket LEDs when the car is not running, so the starter battery doesn't have to provide power to any big load with the car off, but when the car is on both batteries are running in parallel and are taking charge from the alternator. I ended up adding a fuse tap to the "heated seat" circuit, which I was able to determine was only hot when the ignition coil was hot, by scouring through my car's workshop manual (2017 Ford Escape) but it took a long time to find it. So a simple diagram like the one Nissan includes on their fuse box cover can be invaluable if you're doing something like this. Pretty niche, but I can't be the only one.
Just adding this information here in case someone else who is learning this stuff, like me, will find it useful. Good luck!
😊
Another way to make sure you have it connected correctly. Install the fuse that was removed from the fuse block and plug it into the fuse tap where it belongs. Connect the tap into the fuse block. Connect the red lead to your meter and ground the black lead from the meter. Turn on the key if connected to an accessory circuit. If you have power without the secondary fuse installed just reverse the tap. It should have no power until the secondary fuse is connected.
Thanks man ! You just answered my question
💪😎🙏
Thanks!
That's exactly my problem !
Amazingly helpful comment. Between the video itself and this comment i hope everybodys troubles are solved as mine were! Easily!
Is there a way to connect a 2 prong onn/off switch to oneof those fuse taps and then connect the switch to another thing?
My idea was to make so that i connect 12v switch to the fuse box and it controlls on/off function on a led strip
Dean, you never know who you're going to help or when. In all my years, I never knew that there were contacts on the top of the fuse where you could check with a meter! I always pulled them to check. Thank you for that one.
My year
"Load" and "Draw" work for you.
Correct electrical terms are "Line" and "Load".
Line would be your 12volt, non fused side.
Load would be the accessory, fused side.
As an electrician, we calculate "load" to determine the fuse size.
No criticism intended.
Thanks for making this video. It is very helpful and useful!
Now, where can I find the ATMLP fuse taps?
+Chris Denton Amazon is were we get them
Thanks!
Hope your boarded up for the storm.
Stay safe guys!
THANK YOU. THIS WAS BUGGING ME THE WHOLE TIME
I think that's what he covers in the first part of the video. You need to test it with a light tester or a voltimeter to be sure.
From an old Electronics Tech we normally call it supply side and load side. In Electronics the Power "Supply" is where the supply typically comes from, that or a battery. No criticism meant there as well.
To help make sure you use those, "add a circuit" fuses it helps to find which way it needs to go by leaving the lower fuse out(only have the upper fuse installed) & checking for voltage though the added wire! This way you know you have it installed correctly where each circuit is isolated on its own fuse & only after you do see the voltage you install the lower fuse!
Awesome video! Breaks it down and explains it PERFECTLY, especially for someone who was previously clueless like myself. Thanks so much!
I do a lot of DIY electrical work on my vehicles, and i always tap into the main orange accessory wire in the ignition which is dangerous. Thanks to this video, I can now do it safely using the fuse box tap method. You learn from your mistakes, so far no fires
A lot of what you said I did not understand, but at the same time you gave the instructions in a way that anybody can follow them. Thanks! You've helped me a lot.
This was very helpful. I didn’t know about the "load side" nor did I know that one fuse on a tap should be less than the other. Thanks so much! Glad I watched this, first.
It doesn't matter which way around you insert the fuse
@@wolvoman1 the fuse yeah, but what about the fuse tap?
@@wolvoman1 6:30 watch again, he is not referring to the fuse smh
6:55 fuse doesn't always have to be lower, it can be the same.
Fuse size is dependant on wire size, ie. 14g wire is good up to a 15 amp fuse. 16g wire is good up to a 10 amp fuse.
Watched sooo many videos on this and yours was the first that explained it well enough for someone who knew nothing.
Note that the little contacts on top of the fuse will both show power (unless the fuse is blown), because they have continuity through the fuse element. To find the hot side you have to remove the fuse and test the plugs directly. Also, I can't think of a reason the bottom fuse in the tap would need to have a higher relative rating, unless you're inserting it backwards and making current flow through both fuses to reach the lead. Inserted the right way, each fuse is dedicated for its own circuit and should be rated independently.
3 years later you have saved me from much frustration
This video has probably got to be the best and most informative video that i have seen in comparison to time, information and quality (meaning you just showed what was needed, nothing more and nothing less)
Thank you for the information !
Good stuff, I also wasn't aware of the fact that it mattered which way you place your fuse tap load or draw side, thanks for the useful info.
I'm sure that it doesn't matter which way around you insert the fuse
@@wolvoman1 It's safer to have it in series, or zig zag like they put it, through the two fuses. That circuit is only meant to handle 10A. Putting it in parallel like they recommend means there can be more than 10A drawn on that circuit, which could burn out a wire or worst case cause a fire.
I have 2013 Suburban and there is Fuse that control TRACTION CONTROL and stability system Need to pull out before towing or Off-roading can I use that bypass instead of pulling fuse out by installing switch on/off to control that? can you explain what the best way to do it clean like you guys as pro thank you.
Line side is from your power source, load side goes to your accessory (off road lights, amplifier, etc)
That’s what I was thinking.
Exactly!
Oh man, you are a star, I've been looking everywhere regarding what is the load side of one of those fuse holders!!!! Thank you sooooooooooooooooooo much!
Man, I thought i was good with car electricals until i watched your video. Your video is very educative and well presented too. Keep it up!!!
EXCELLENT video! You answered all of my questions regarding tapping into fuses AND MORE... These are the kind of informational videos that make youtube great... Thanks brother!
You're an excellent instructor! Thank you for this exceptionally well-made video.
Good video, when i was young and inexperienced installing I did not know fuses had load and draw sides so I caught my 94 nissan on fire. While trying to install a small amplifier. thankfully I was able to rip the wire away before it was too bad.
I'm now showing my son how to do things right and your video explained it right on the money.
Thanks,
B
Very useful video. I never knew about the load and draw side of fuses. I assumed you could put them in either way. Thanks!
Patrick Barbour Thank You for this information. I was worried that my fuses where oriented wrong on my fuse box. Thanks.
@Patrick Barbour Thanks! For a second I thought I potentially replaced my fuse incorrectly.
Patrick Barbour Thanks for the clarification.
@Patrick Barbour yeah bro, good information. Thanks. Hopefully you're not a troll lol
@@xjcrossx yeah same, lmao ....somebody else please verify ???
6:58 I don't understand this part. Aren't the fuses parallel to each other thereby making the fuses independent of each other?
“Line” is the unfused supply to the power in leg of a fuse - It’s the power line into the fuse.
“Load” is the electrical load placed on the fuse
It supplies the electrical load connected to the fusible link / aka fuse
Draw (current draw) refers to the current drawn from a circuit by a given load. Vary the load and you change the draw.
The function of the fuse/ fusible link is to limit current drawn to a level that guage (cross sectional thickness) of wire can carry without getting so hot that it causes the insulation to melt or catch fire.
A thicker copper wire can carry a larger current draw and supply a larger electrical power load.
Nice video though. 🙏
Great video
Linear, explains why, to the point, we can see the work, and no side bar rambling.
Video is very useful to me. However, this video is for radios and I am installing fog lights with a relay.
I am going to use what I learned from watching this to try to make it where the fog lights do not work unless the key is in the ignition.
Now I need to find out how to use an empty relay spot and how to connect the relay.
Is this adult Morty?
In all seriousness, you are a lifesaver.
Installer Morty lol
Very well done video......most informative......I am in the process of checking some Auto Electricians work that I paid for and found some errors that have forced me to check all his work. This video confirms my suspicions. Many thanks .....
Awesome video. Wish more people presented tutorials as perfectly as you did here. Great job, guys!
You think using a leech fuse is professional ?
Do the job properly, it shows he has no certification to even understand DC electricity
@@davidrobertson5700 Google "leech fuse", what do you see? Are you talking about the fuse tap?
Thank you for your video. I'm new to this and it's very helpful, but I have a question. At 2:46 you check for power. Should it read 12 volts, the output of the car battery? Should all of them read 12 volts?
Bro you’ve saved the day on so many levels for me. I appreciate this so much thank you!!
Same here!!
Yup agreed, quarantine left me with time to mess with my car and this just saved me time and screwups
Day
Wow, you should get a grammy for your camera work, lighting, information etc. It is so disappointing to see great content on the web and the crappiest ways to deliver such content, I appreciate the quality of your video in every respect, thank you.
Totally agree. Very well done
Very informative video! Wish I would’ve seen it yesterday before I installed my halo headlights on the Wrangler 😎 I was searching today to see if the tap needed 2 fuses and you answered my question! Thank you.
Love their vids! Great installers and teachers! I hope they make millions and one day I would like shake their hands.
if your tapping into an open spot (unused spot) would you need to put the primary fuse in or just the secondary fuse for the new circuit. I'm guessing only the secondary? If im wrong how would you determine what amp fuse is needed for the primary.
Mohsin Ali you are right, just the secondary fuse.
@@FiveStarCarStereoInc How do you determine what size to use for the secondary if you're tapping an unused slot? Does it matter?
@@chrisphillips4761 you choose the fuse based upon the accessory you are adding. Although, consideration of the capabilities of the circuit feeding your chosen location would be a great idea.
Have a Van Top Dash Cam Mirror H612T. Want to hard wire into a 2011 F150 XLT. Whats the best fuse box to connect too. Very informative program.
One additional item that I would like to know. Do the adapters fit so you can replace the Fuse box covers properly, with the additional height of the adapters, may or may not clear the cover? Many different fuse boxes with different vehicles. So maybe you end up creating a slot/hole in the cover? Pigtail also needs to be fished out of the box somehow? Nice video and thanks.
On my car, it needed a hole. Or at least the cops added holes. (Trying to figure this out myself for a lightbar I'm installing.)
Great video. This will prevent me from making a major mistake when I add a circuit for fog lights. At 3:05 on the video you mention open spots in the fuse box. If I find an open spot that is switched and want to use it how do I connect a wire to the bottom draw side of the box?
Put a fuse, stick a wire underneath it
Wow I thought I knew how to do this, I guess I've been lucky in the past I didn't burn anything up, the load and draw info is invaluable. Thank you for a short consise video, the music could go though, your good enough without it.
The load side of the fuse is the side of the fuse that becomes “dead” if the fuse blows
@@secretdad544 that comment may have just helped, terminology confusion.
Good on ya mate. Keep it up 👍
@@janodjano5828 Good on you mate. Take care 👍
Hey thank you for this I never knew these existed I always just ran a wire around the fuse and I always thought that looked sloppy. Now it’s nice and cleanly done thank you. I added two charger ports on the back of my armrest for my rear passengers so I don’t have to figure it out from the front plugs
Very helpful. Clear, concise and to the point. Fantastic video!
if someone needs to know how to make proper tutorials and explainations, they should learn from you sir! you sir are the best! love to watch all of your videos!
Are taps and fuses labeled load and draw?
How am I supposed to know which side is which?
It doesn't matter if you are just replacing a blown fuse. If you watch the video he shows with the volt meter how to ck. Basically put the black lead on a ground and touch the fuse block connections. The one with voltage s the load
No... @cheif60 is asking, "how do you know which side of the fuse itself"... not the block as in the video?
question, can i tap into one fuse with multiple devices, for example multiple aftermarket gauges?
If that is the case you may want to add a small second fuse panel
Installing my first boss radio, this is the info i been surching for weeks lol
What’s the name of those sleeves that go on the fuses? Can’t find them anywhere
Wow love how you guys do everything with all details
Wow. I was about to snap. I jus bought a used challenger rt and decided to throw a better stereo in it. I’ve installed more aftermarket stereos than I can remember but never have a run into this. I start wiring my harness and the dodge harness has no 12v switched wire. At first I thought it was a mistake made by the factory. Nope apparently stock stereos in newer cars just run on hopes n dreams. Anyway I was about to give up hope and then I found this. Thank you so much. I hope you still actively make videos. I’m gonna follow for sure. Thanks again
6:55 fuse doesn't always have to be lower size, it can be the same size
Lower
Well done just like the first two guys I didn't know either I learn something very valuable I'm going to put in a backup camera I'm glad I watch you guys first thank you very very much
4:56 What are "little guys" actual name?
Did you find out?
Thanks man, solved my problem at 4:06 I was installing power seat on my mk2 santa fe, seat worked when connected straight from battery, but when I plugged into fuse box it didnt work all problem was that I needed to flip fuse tap and it works 👌
0:02 under car damage this is why i avoid garages like this
lmao
Great job and taking the time to do the video. The only thing I would suggest is to correct the terminology so people aren't confused. The "LOAD" is the device that you are protecting with the fuse that "DRAWS" power. The "SOURCE" is the power "SUPPLY" that provides the energy to the circuit. For ease if conversation the following terms can be interchangeable.
SOURCE=SUPPLY=POWER=Battery
LOAD=DRAW=DEVICE=CIRCUIT=Amplifier or dash camera
This sure beats splicing into cigarette lighter wiring. I added a Volt meter using a tap and it works great.
aaaah, another good idea!
Thank you!! I had an auto vox dash cam installed and it recorded a crash involving my vehicle. I had to troubleshoot because i had bought a new model of the same vehicle. Whole new fuse type and everything. You video helped out alot with the load and which side go where. Much appreciated.
Vic O. Thank you glad we could help
Learned something new today!! Thanks
Instead of using that wrapping method like you showed at 4:46, could you use the piggyback and just run the wire to that for subs?
+Collin Smith as long as the fuse will blow if there is a short the rest is up to you.
Awesome you made it really clear to understand 👏🏻 thanks for making this video. Youre the best👌🏻
As I said before I'm putting in a backup camera I noticed on my car slot number 33 is empty what size fuse should I be putting in there
Where can I find the brass fuse tabs that you showed as an alternative to the add a circuit? I tried looking on Amazon but I'm not quite sure the exact verbiage to search for.
Patrick Zweygardt They're on Amazon just type in "Brass fuse tap" .
WirthCo 30800 Battery Doctor Fuse Tap Kit for Mini Fuses www.amazon.com/dp/B000CQDRTI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0ca2CbDS6E674
Hello five star stereo I want to thank You guys for the great videos . My old car had no stereo or wires I could use . Thanks to your videos I was able to locate a ground a constant and did the fuse box adapter for ignition power and now I am jamming thanks. Hey Fernando Puro Pinche Parri!!
why are you calling the side that leads to the battery "load" ? One of the few things I remember from my degree as an electrical engineer is that "load" means the path heading towards the device that is using the electricity, not the source of the electricity
electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/95874/when-people-talk-about-a-device-drawing-current-what-do-they-mean-why-do-dev
David Aliprandi I was wondering the same thing. no engineering degree... just a guy trying to keep things straight in the face of non standard terminology. I believe it's line for power from the battery and load out, correct?
well he probably doesn't have electrical engineering degree(otherwise he is the most over qualified car electrician ever) and simply meant the 'Hot' side.
So, for clarification for this non-electrician, should I place the fuse tap for my aftermarket stereo ignition wire on the side that registers voltage on the meter or the side that does not register voltage?
@@texasknowhow3143 think of load as it's loading power to the fuse. Draw means it's drawing power fr the fuse. If you connect your accessory to the load (hot) side then you're essentially bypassing the fuse. Connect the device to the draw side. So if the fuse blows the power between the load and draw is broken. When connected to the draw side it will kill power to the device.
If you improperly connect the device to the load (hot) side and the fuse blows it will still give power to the device because it's connected before the part of the fuse that breaks which is what actually what kills the power .
In other words. Connect the device or remote wire to the side of the fuse that doesn't get 12v power
Just a quick question please mate. Regarding the fuse tap at 7:16 into the video, how would I. Know which is the draw side and what is the lid side on that. I have been able to find the lid and draw side in the fuse box, but not sure which way I should put it in.
I love that you literally cant drive that car in your garage without scraping the bottom.
How the hell did they drive the Dodge viper in there that one episode!
Lmao....pure gold.
0:03
0:09
Drive garage
@@lowhertzhighspl viper
Excellent video…can I add a toggle switch onto the red wire of the fuse tap piece?
Still don’t get which way round the fuse has to go in the fuse box
You will need some type of circuit tester. He used a voltmeter. I have a $9 AutoZone tool with a very sharp pointy tip. The tool has a see-thru clear plastic handle with a lamp inside. While the ignition is ON, sticking the pointy end into one of the receptacles in the fuse box, (or the tiny holes at the fuse end like he did at 3:21 ) the lamp comes on. THAT side of the receptacle or tiny hole is what HE calls the LOAD side. (You can think of what HE calls the LOAD as directly connected to the positive side of the battery. What HE calls the LOAD side is where you should add the new gadget.
Very helpful on that ty but the only part i have a question is the gro7nd part were would you tie the ground into?
@6:50 you put a 10 amp fuse in low side. then you said the load side had to be lower and you put a 25 amp in. im confused. Sorry just asking!
chadwick thurmond it looks like a 25 amp fuse but it is a 7.5 amp fuse. 25 amp fuses are clear in color.
chadwick thurmond I was wondering the same thing. no engineering degree... just a guy trying to keep things straight in the face of non standard terminology. I believe it's line for power from the battery and load out, correct?
The sum of both fuses should ideally be at most the fuse value that was originally in that location as to not draw more current than the vehicle wiring was designed for.
MountainVisions hi would I be able to put two fuses of the same amp in. Also can I piggyback of a a constant fuse for a constant live wire thanks
Get a new pair of reading specs :-) The fuse you think is a 25 amp is actually a 7.5 amp fuse. I made the same error until I looked closer
Hi there very informative. What do you call that gold adaptor? Sleeves? TIA
load and draw are same thing. you have a feed "hot all time" and a load or draw side.
I know you explained very well but I want to make sure I'm going to install a backup camera on a Honda pilot I believe the backup light fuse is #9 in driver side is this where I would use the fuse tap and run the wire to the head units reverse wire ?
and I have learned something new. Useful, thank you
Awesome thank you. I have one question though can the two fuses be the same? Like 20 amp and a 20 amp
That’s my question, too. I think it could, but not toooo sure
very well explained.
First video that accurately and clearly explains this stuff. Nice video!
This is GOLD! THANK YOU!!!
Absolutely easy and straightforward thanks guys.
Brilliant video :)
As stated the top fuse (new circuit) has to be lower than the bottom fuse. Is it OK to have the same on both top and bottom for example 25 top and 25 bottom?
Mohsin Ali thank you.
if the are both active circuits no. By active- something that is on majority of the time.
Hey, sorry to highjack this old conversation... If the fuse im tapping into is seat heating (which my car doesn't even have) there most likely won't be a problem if i have top and bottom fuse 15 & 15 amps? the tapped fuse would be for a dashcam which draws less than ~5 amps...
Not exactly related to the topic but... I'd be a bit worried about a shop that grounds a un-modded Infinity just driving it in....
Lmao he scrapped the dirt off the bottom. It’s an addition 120$ fee
Pointing to the load / draw side on a FUSE instead of where the FUSE PLUGS IN, confused me, I'm often pretty dim. You could say power source or to battery side etc., for dummies like me. After I figured that out it is an excellent vid. Thank you,
not gonna lie, when I was in high school I used to do the wrap thing around the fuse then cram it back in..... I'm an adult now lol, but thanks for the tap info
jmaslin we see it all the time
Any advice on older European cars with the torpedo type fuses? I’m guessing you would just connect the positive directly to the prong that cradles the fuse.
8:50 Thanks Fernando for this useful tutorial! :-)
OMG I was dealing with all these issue today. Found out the hard way my car take ATM LP. Then I was told it didn't matter what fuse went in each hole. Also my car manual doesn't have layout of my fuse box and it's a 2018 Nisssn. I even went to a Auto store and told them that the top lights up in the bottom doesn't they act like I was crazy I was totally confused . Totally frustrating day. But after finding this video tomorrow will be a better day. Thank you.
Why do people add MUSIC to their videos making the SPEAKER HARD TO HEAR???? Oh My God it is EXCRUICATING trying to listen to the speaker with the MUSIC....
What are you talking about the music wasn't even loud!
Nice video. If I want to connect to the ACC and B+ c926 c929 on a 99 civic with spade connectors do you know what size connector to use?
I'd be absolutely delighted if someone would show me how to put the lid back on the fuse box after fitting a fuse tap. Go on . . . do it, I dare you.
If you were 5 Star C.A. you'd make a new one from abs/pvc/hdpe/etc
lol just be patient and look at what your doing there's a whole lot of ways to do something and once you hit a dead spot start over and see what can be done easier for fitment " PATIENT " lol good luck safety first
What is the item called at 4:58? He calls them "these little guys".
i found these little guys lol www.amazon.com/FUSE-250-MALE-DISCONNECT-TERMINAL/dp/B00GWS4YLA/ref=sr_1_18?crid=DVF8P9Y1LDIX&keywords=atc+fuse+tap&qid=1576288866&sprefix=atc+fuse+%2Caps%2C206&sr=8-18
@@MADDOGG thank you so much!
had no clue how they worked . so just stayed away from them . thanks
pissed off it like having a wall outlet that weirdly has only one outlet. You add an extension cord (fuse tap) to create more outlets. In this case, you add a fuse tap, you now have 2 instead of one opening. I suck at explaining lol
Good stuff, I also wasn't aware of the fact that it mattered which way you place your fuse tap load or draw side, thanks for the useful info. thanks again.
nice vid very helpful
wsatnutter thank you
Thanks for posting... right at the 7:10 mark through to you are using the terms "load side" (when pointing to the supply side) and "draw side" (when pointing to the load side). Please, correct me if I am wrong here, but the load side is the one the pigtail is on, and the 12v+/supply side is opposite that, correct? I'm from Central & Western U.S., and "supply" always refers to the 12v+ side, and "load" always refers to the load... using the term "draw" instead of load seems needlessly confusing. Or am I missing something?
Way to bottom out the car pulling it into the shop LOL.
pprotory Good thing it was Fernando's ride.
Thank you this is very helpful to know before I try to hard wire a dash cam to my car. Like the comment below I had no idea there was a load/draw side, I'm really glad you explained that part! Also the bit showing how to test with a volt meter, other videos say to do that but they don't show how to actually do it. Not everyone is good with electronics, thanks for showing this part!
Blue Rabbit I am going to be doing a hardwire dash cam to my car too. Hanging wires looks like hell! How did you make out? What fuse amp sizes did you use? (I am using a tap in a 15A cig lighter) . Please let me know!
@@canadude6401 Hi, sorry I ended up just tucking the wires under the top and side panels in the end. There are no visible wires apart from the cigarette lighter connector so it doesn't look bad at all. I do intend to do it properly one weekend when I have time but for now I've done it the lazy way due to lack of time! Good luck with your hardwiring :)
Informative video, but the background music too loud for my sensitive ears
Do I need a separate ground when using a fuse tap?
Forgot to mention your video really did help me, and you did a great job. Thanks
I am glad to know of these adapters now, thank you. But fyi its line side and load side. Line side is always your hot side and load is what ever side something is pulling a load on it, im sure your like me and would like to know.
Best walkthrough for this I've found very detailed and clear explanation. Thanks very much just did some footwell lighting my first "mod" love it cheers man
Hi Dean and Fernando, excuse my ignorance, can you tell me where is the best place to connect the negative wire?
6:43 Quick question, the 10amp you inserted on the bottom fuse is upside down? Is that correct?
From what I am reading it only matters that the add a wire is attached properly....the fuse itself will blow if overloaded no matter which way the fuse numbers are turned
Thank you for the video
Might be a silly question but what do i do with the negative cable ?
I just wanna add a uhf radio , ofcourse has a positive and negative cable coming from it .
Positive to the power but where would be the best place to earth it ?
No sure if I'm clear enough, thanks
Any metal would work as a good ground