Great detailed strip down and rebuild. I know how to do this and still watched in full. Like you I don't know why Fox persist with the pellet and needle system as the valve on Rockshox is so much easier to work on. Only differences I do, is snip rather than twist the pillow pack to avoid losing any, and I use up the last of the seal grease on the piston seals and air can wiper seals, to make sure they stick and don't dislodge on assembly. I also take out the air can valve when putting the can on so you aren't fighting against the air build up when threading it on. Great job, your content is excellent quality.
Thanks for the support, myman. I really appreciate it "is snip rather than twist the pillow pack to avoid losing any" Many times I've noticed, when editing these videos, little details that I would rarely, if ever, do when I'm not recording. I press the record button, and the mind starts racing. I totally agree with snipping the pillow pack. I'd say 99% of the time I do it for the same reason Your other two points are excellent as well. I really should have mentioned removing the air can valve core to make it easier. I will do so in the next shock video. The goal is to make it as easy as possible for people to service their parts. Comments like these only help me remember stuff, that I either didn't know, or totally had a Brain fart, for the next time, so thanks again for taking the time to mention them 👍
It might look it, but I'm positive you can handle servicing this shock. rockshox did a great job making it service-friendly. And it runs so much smoother after a fresh service, especially the 50-hour service, which I would bet on you being able to do. 👍
Hi my man! Thanks for your several tutorials. I have a sidluxe rear shock, after service the shock has some travel when locked. Rockshox says "rock solid". So, is there air in the body or what did I possibly wrong ? Thanks and all the best, Stefan
To do this do I need the vise with the like round metal jaw that wraps around the body or can I just place padding between the shock body and vise and just lightly tighten so the ifp doesn’t move?
You definitely have the best service videos I've seen on TH-cam. Thanks for making these. I planned on only doing the 50 hour service but the bottom out bumper O ring was broken on my shock. Can I run it without the bottom out bumper or will I need to take everything apart and install a new one? Thanks
Thank you for the kind words myman! I honestly wouldn't run the shock without the bumper. The washer will get damaged and every time you bottom out it'll be unnerving hearing it. IT might seem like a bit of a PITA, but once you get used to serving this shock it will go by really quick. Hopefully this helps
Thanks for the video! Question - who makes the soft jaws you used in the tear down (not the ones in your intro/tools section)? Would be great to have a 10mm clamp with a flat surface soft jaw. ✌️
It a rockshox vise block, but for some reason I only see online for over $100, which is NUTS! If memory serves me correct I paid Around $35, but that was a few years ago. If you have a solid vice then the following might work just as good, if not better as it has magnets. I had to install the magnets on mine www.ebay.com/itm/276210036547?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1xvcnbCPHT46OAi8p7tqRPA44&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=276210036547&targetid=1583904486362&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9016979&poi=&campaignid=19894961968&mkgroupid=148855406073&rlsatarget=pla-1583904486362&abcId=9307911&merchantid=6296724&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwkuqvBhAQEiwA65XxQGV5EayDiALzUfc_aR3PNoQ4G5_Q7BXZQ5asyZqX_DHnwn6uf1VVKhoCcvsQAvD_BwE
Glad you found the video informative. as to your question, unfortunately not. The piston assembly has to be removed in order to install or remove the travel limiter. At least this shock is easy to work on and doesn't need to many special tools. let me know if you have any other questions. thanks
@@zoubtubeThanks for your reply. I ask but i get a new Rockshox Deluxe Select + for under 50$ on sale (don't ask me how this is possible) as spare for my girfriends bike. But it was the 65mm and not the 60mm Version. But it should be ok anyway. My gf is not into jumping. Fully bottomed out without air there are only 2 mm space to the frame. But I will be happy if she uses 2/3 of the travel with low pressure and no volume spacers 😅. Is there may be a Video planned for the RockShox ZEB Charger R, or something similar? By the way, you have the best Service Tutorials on YT by far. I watch them sometimes only for fun and without having the components. You are a big benefit for the DIY Community ❤
Once again, thanks for another awesome video. I see you are starting with the pivot bushing and pin assemblies removed. I've had two Rockshox rear shock units and the pin did not rotate in the bushing at all in either one. In fact I had to press the pins out to remove them. This doesn't seem right to me especially since those pins are clamped tightly in their respective suspension assemblies (either in the frameset at the forward position or in the swingarm at the rear). Shouldn't those pivot pins spin freely within the bushings?
Thanks for the comment. Good question, and to answer it, yes, the inner pin should rotate within the bushing. It won't exactly freely spin, but when holding both ends with your fingers, you should be able to move the shock without the pin rotating with it. Without knowing exactly which shock hardware setup you have, you might want to consider changing the eyelet bushings. This is low-cost and relatively easy to do. Hopefully, this helps some.
Great Video! Keep up the good work. Do you service Shocks for the general public? If so how do I contact you? You seem very thorough. Some places that do the service kind of skimp on some of the things you did. I like the complete rebuild with thorough cleaning.That way the shock stays super smooth for a long time. I think I coud do the 50 hour service. However the 200 hour looks to be way more complicated, and needs more tools. Plus I don't have the fancy digital torque wrench, only a basic one that is a pain to use, do to the tiny confusing setting markings.
Thank you for the great compliment. I've been helping people for years, but around 3 years ago it started getting difficult to find time with all the changes at work, hence why a buddy convinced me to start making videos (the majority of the videos are of people's bikes and parts). As for this shock, it's honestly an easy shock to fully service. The 50-hour is easy enough, and the 200-hour can be done with cost-effective tools (there is no need to buy the same torque wrenches like I have. I bought them a long time ago for a totally different purpose; they are overkill for this scenario). In all reality, If you look around, you can buy the tools, and parts needed for the job for around the same price as sending the shock to SRAM for one service. Don't be intimidated by it. Rockshox purposely made this shox for anyone to service. Watch the video, step by step, and take your time. As I'm mentioned in some of the videos, for me, it's like therapy; I take my time and methodically go through each job. Don't feel rushed, and most importantly, don't overthink it. I know you can do it Out of curiosity, where do you live?
Not 10mm. For metric shocks, travel limiters (not to be confused with tokens) are typically sold in 2.5mm increments. Ex: 2.5mm, 5mm, 7.5mm. Once you go past 7.5mm you will need to go with a longer shock. Also, you will need the proper-sized damper body for the travel limiter in order to ensure that the IFP is set correctly. Let me know if this doesn't make sense to you, and I will try to better explain next time. It's very late at night here, and I'm on very little sleep and starting to feel loopy
@@zoubtube Does this mean if I've currently got a 185x50 trunnion deluxe and want to go to 185x55 I would need to replace the entire damper body and essentially reinstall as per damper service? Is it possible to remove to top of the shock from the stanchion to slide off the stroke spacer and run the current damper body? From what I've read the IFP will be set in the same window?
Yes! But you have to make sure your frame is compatible with the increased travel. You want to avoid the tire hitting your seat tube, especially if you have a carbon frame
Not with the stock aircan. The stock air can will support countermeasure. The Megneg can, which can be installed on certain model/year deluxe shocks, supports the bands
Not as easy as it might seem. there are LOTS of measurements to take into consideration. example, the back plate xyz dimensions are easy enough, but the holes going through it are very precise in order to get the right angle of leverage for different sized shocks. then there are the multiple mounts that are multi sided and have about 8 different mounting rods that insert into them. that would take me quite a while to measure everything.
I have a rs deluxe rt3,but it came with a piszon a havent seen anywhere on rockshox website,i dont know how to maintain it, and it has 3 little scratches on the piszon wall,what should i do? This is some kind of a fraknenstein shock or?
Sure. I'm not a fan of dynamic seal grease. I typically only use it when the grease is sitting in oil, like in a reverb dropper. the dynamic seal grease dissolves better in oil. but if you using it for air springs, ifp chambers, or any scenario that lube to lower friction but doesn't interact with a significant amount of oil, then sram butter works great
In your video when you put the shock in the dino you made the comment, no squishy noise, could you elaborate on what causes the squishy noise? Is it air in the chamber?
If there is air in the damper body, it will make a squishy/slurpy noise when moving through the compression stack. It's a fairly distinct noise. I'm sure there is a better word to describe it, but ultimately, you want the damper to be silent when cycling it. The only noise that should be heard from the damper is the glide ring when cycling.
That 20 PSI delta will make a difference. Rockshox sells a 600 psi pump. If possible try and find it on special or use a discount. Tree fort bicycles currently has it for $36. It might seem like a lot but you shouldn't run into this issue again with it
@@zoubtube The frame is a HONG FU FM-158 which uses 190x40, my monarch is 190x51, but I put a travel spacer inside to limit it. I found a deluxe per a very good price, and he is 190x40, instead x51, like the monarch. My question is, do the deluxe is much better than the monarch? Worth the upgrade?
I'm completely unfamiliar with that frame, so I really can't say if you will actually feel a difference between the two, since frame plays a major role in overall suspension performance. But, lb for lb, you can make the Deluxe feel more supportive overall, than a monarch, which I would consider better.
Nope! Way to thick. Stick with sram butter (or equivalent) or dynamic grease. personally, if the shock is under warranty, I would just use sram products for grease and oil. SRAM is really good with their warranties. you don't want to give them a reason not to honor it in case something goes wrong.
Yes. To replace just the damper body, follow the steps up to the damper body removal, then skip to the bleed and follow the rest of the steps to put the shock back together. You will realize how simple it is after your first time doing it. 👍
Yup! you can use either. I prefer sram butter, slickoleum etc. I could be wrong, but it seems to me dynamic grease dehydrates and becomes either thick and/or grainy pretty quick. But it's your choice
Great detailed strip down and rebuild. I know how to do this and still watched in full.
Like you I don't know why Fox persist with the pellet and needle system as the valve on Rockshox is so much easier to work on.
Only differences I do, is snip rather than twist the pillow pack to avoid losing any, and I use up the last of the seal grease on the piston seals and air can wiper seals, to make sure they stick and don't dislodge on assembly. I also take out the air can valve when putting the can on so you aren't fighting against the air build up when threading it on. Great job, your content is excellent quality.
Thanks for the support, myman. I really appreciate it
"is snip rather than twist the pillow pack to avoid losing any"
Many times I've noticed, when editing these videos, little details that I would rarely, if ever, do when I'm not recording. I press the record button, and the mind starts racing. I totally agree with snipping the pillow pack. I'd say 99% of the time I do it for the same reason
Your other two points are excellent as well. I really should have mentioned removing the air can valve core to make it easier. I will do so in the next shock video. The goal is to make it as easy as possible for people to service their parts. Comments like these only help me remember stuff, that I either didn't know, or totally had a Brain fart, for the next time, so thanks again for taking the time to mention them 👍
Looks and sounds very technical. Nice vid.
It might look it, but I'm positive you can handle servicing this shock. rockshox did a great job making it service-friendly. And it runs so much smoother after a fresh service, especially the 50-hour service, which I would bet on you being able to do. 👍
@@zoubtube appreciate your perspective
Hi my man! Thanks for your several tutorials. I have a sidluxe rear shock, after service the shock has some travel when locked. Rockshox says "rock solid". So, is there air in the body or what did I possibly wrong ?
Thanks and all the best, Stefan
To do this do I need the vise with the like round metal jaw that wraps around the body or can I just place padding between the shock body and vise and just lightly tighten so the ifp doesn’t move?
You definitely have the best service videos I've seen on TH-cam. Thanks for making these. I planned on only doing the 50 hour service but the bottom out bumper O ring was broken on my shock. Can I run it without the bottom out bumper or will I need to take everything apart and install a new one? Thanks
Thank you for the kind words myman! I honestly wouldn't run the shock without the bumper. The washer will get damaged and every time you bottom out it'll be unnerving hearing it. IT might seem like a bit of a PITA, but once you get used to serving this shock it will go by really quick. Hopefully this helps
Thanks for the video! Question - who makes the soft jaws you used in the tear down (not the ones in your intro/tools section)? Would be great to have a 10mm clamp with a flat surface soft jaw. ✌️
It a rockshox vise block, but for some reason I only see online for over $100, which is NUTS! If memory serves me correct I paid Around $35, but that was a few years ago. If you have a solid vice then the following might work just as good, if not better as it has magnets. I had to install the magnets on mine
www.ebay.com/itm/276210036547?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1xvcnbCPHT46OAi8p7tqRPA44&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=276210036547&targetid=1583904486362&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9016979&poi=&campaignid=19894961968&mkgroupid=148855406073&rlsatarget=pla-1583904486362&abcId=9307911&merchantid=6296724&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwkuqvBhAQEiwA65XxQGV5EayDiALzUfc_aR3PNoQ4G5_Q7BXZQ5asyZqX_DHnwn6uf1VVKhoCcvsQAvD_BwE
25:25 Thanks for the awesome video! Is it possible to change this blue travel limiter without doing a full service?
Glad you found the video informative. as to your question, unfortunately not. The piston assembly has to be removed in order to install or remove the travel limiter. At least this shock is easy to work on and doesn't need to many special tools. let me know if you have any other questions. thanks
@@zoubtubeThanks for your reply. I ask but i get a new Rockshox Deluxe Select + for under 50$ on sale (don't ask me how this is possible) as spare for my girfriends bike. But it was the 65mm and not the 60mm Version. But it should be ok anyway. My gf is not into jumping. Fully bottomed out without air there are only 2 mm space to the frame. But I will be happy if she uses 2/3 of the travel with low pressure and no volume spacers 😅.
Is there may be a Video planned for the RockShox ZEB Charger R, or something similar?
By the way, you have the best Service Tutorials on YT by far. I watch them sometimes only for fun and without having the components. You are a big benefit for the DIY Community ❤
Is the valve adapter for the ifp the same needed for fox float x2 2021 ifp chamber ?
Yup! Be careful with the lower cost ones. makes sure they have MANY positives reviews before buying
Once again, thanks for another awesome video. I see you are starting with the pivot bushing and pin assemblies removed. I've had two Rockshox rear shock units and the pin did not rotate in the bushing at all in either one. In fact I had to press the pins out to remove them. This doesn't seem right to me especially since those pins are clamped tightly in their respective suspension assemblies (either in the frameset at the forward position or in the swingarm at the rear). Shouldn't those pivot pins spin freely within the bushings?
Thanks for the comment. Good question, and to answer it, yes, the inner pin should rotate within the bushing. It won't exactly freely spin, but when holding both ends with your fingers, you should be able to move the shock without the pin rotating with it. Without knowing exactly which shock hardware setup you have, you might want to consider changing the eyelet bushings. This is low-cost and relatively easy to do. Hopefully, this helps some.
Great Video! Keep up the good work. Do you service Shocks for the general public? If so how do I contact you? You seem very thorough. Some places that do the service kind of skimp on some of the things you did. I like the complete rebuild with thorough cleaning.That way the shock stays super smooth for a long time. I think I coud do the 50 hour service. However the 200 hour looks to be way more complicated, and needs more tools. Plus I don't have the fancy digital torque wrench, only a basic one that is a pain to use, do to the tiny confusing setting markings.
Thank you for the great compliment. I've been helping people for years, but around 3 years ago it started getting difficult to find time with all the changes at work, hence why a buddy convinced me to start making videos (the majority of the videos are of people's bikes and parts). As for this shock, it's honestly an easy shock to fully service. The 50-hour is easy enough, and the 200-hour can be done with cost-effective tools (there is no need to buy the same torque wrenches like I have. I bought them a long time ago for a totally different purpose; they are overkill for this scenario). In all reality, If you look around, you can buy the tools, and parts needed for the job for around the same price as sending the shock to SRAM for one service.
Don't be intimidated by it. Rockshox purposely made this shox for anyone to service. Watch the video, step by step, and take your time. As I'm mentioned in some of the videos, for me, it's like therapy; I take my time and methodically go through each job. Don't feel rushed, and most importantly, don't overthink it. I know you can do it
Out of curiosity, where do you live?
@@zoubtube Central California
@@miguelfamily8991 when you get a chance send me the serial number so I can look it up. thanks
is there a possibility to reduce travel and length by 10mm - adding spacer into damper part under a cap that holds the damper assembly?
Not 10mm. For metric shocks, travel limiters (not to be confused with tokens) are typically sold in 2.5mm increments. Ex: 2.5mm, 5mm, 7.5mm. Once you go past 7.5mm you will need to go with a longer shock. Also, you will need the proper-sized damper body for the travel limiter in order to ensure that the IFP is set correctly. Let me know if this doesn't make sense to you, and I will try to better explain next time. It's very late at night here, and I'm on very little sleep and starting to feel loopy
@@zoubtube Does this mean if I've currently got a 185x50 trunnion deluxe and want to go to 185x55 I would need to replace the entire damper body and essentially reinstall as per damper service? Is it possible to remove to top of the shock from the stanchion to slide off the stroke spacer and run the current damper body? From what I've read the IFP will be set in the same window?
If you wanted to increase travel is it possible to leave out the blue travel reducer?
Yes! But you have to make sure your frame is compatible with the increased travel. You want to avoid the tire hitting your seat tube, especially if you have a carbon frame
Thanks for the video, great work! and for the response@@zoubtube
Question, is this compatible with bottomless bands? (Not tokens) Or is it just monarch/vivid and above?
Not with the stock aircan. The stock air can will support countermeasure. The Megneg can, which can be installed on certain model/year deluxe shocks, supports the bands
Hi. Are you able to provide the measurements of the OSO Hand Dyno? I will like to make one like it.
Not as easy as it might seem. there are LOTS of measurements to take into consideration. example, the back plate xyz dimensions are easy enough, but the holes going through it are very precise in order to get the right angle of leverage for different sized shocks. then there are the multiple mounts that are multi sided and have about 8 different mounting rods that insert into them. that would take me quite a while to measure everything.
I have a rs deluxe rt3,but it came with a piszon a havent seen anywhere on rockshox website,i dont know how to maintain it, and it has 3 little scratches on the piszon wall,what should i do?
This is some kind of a fraknenstein shock or?
When you get a moment can you get me the serial number? thanks
Can i use sram butter instead of dynamic grease?
Sure. I'm not a fan of dynamic seal grease. I typically only use it when the grease is sitting in oil, like in a reverb dropper. the dynamic seal grease dissolves better in oil. but if you using it for air springs, ifp chambers, or any scenario that lube to lower friction but doesn't interact with a significant amount of oil, then sram butter works great
thank you.
In your video when you put the shock in the dino you made the comment, no squishy noise, could you elaborate on what causes the squishy noise? Is it air in the chamber?
If there is air in the damper body, it will make a squishy/slurpy noise when moving through the compression stack. It's a fairly distinct noise. I'm sure there is a better word to describe it, but ultimately, you want the damper to be silent when cycling it. The only noise that should be heard from the damper is the glide ring when cycling.
What if I pump 400psi to my shock because my pomp cant let me put 420psi
That 20 PSI delta will make a difference. Rockshox sells a 600 psi pump. If possible try and find it on special or use a discount. Tree fort bicycles currently has it for $36. It might seem like a lot but you shouldn't run into this issue again with it
is this shock is much better than a rockshox monarch?
There are really many factors to consider. which monarch? what bike? Are you sure your frame will allow for both of these shocks to fit?
@@zoubtube The frame is a HONG FU FM-158 which uses 190x40, my monarch is 190x51, but I put a travel spacer inside to limit it. I found a deluxe per a very good price, and he is 190x40, instead x51, like the monarch. My question is, do the deluxe is much better than the monarch? Worth the upgrade?
I'm completely unfamiliar with that frame, so I really can't say if you will actually feel a difference between the two, since frame plays a major role in overall suspension performance. But, lb for lb, you can make the Deluxe feel more supportive overall, than a monarch, which I would consider better.
Can use pm600 military grease ?
Nope! Way to thick. Stick with sram butter (or equivalent) or dynamic grease. personally, if the shock is under warranty, I would just use sram products for grease and oil. SRAM is really good with their warranties. you don't want to give them a reason not to honor it in case something goes wrong.
@@zoubtube thanks!!
hi, can i replace only the damper body without doing the other steps ? and just put oil in the new one
Yes. To replace just the damper body, follow the steps up to the damper body removal, then skip to the bleed and follow the rest of the steps to put the shock back together. You will realize how simple it is after your first time doing it. 👍
I just buy a new one for 155€ 200h Service will cost 140€ 😂
Then this video is for those who buy the used ones 😉
Aí aqui no Brasil uma fortuna
Instead of the sram butter is it possible to use dynamic seal grease ?
Yes, but in his opinion he preferes sram butter because idk its better
Bdw its not very expensive
Yup! you can use either. I prefer sram butter, slickoleum etc. I could be wrong, but it seems to me dynamic grease dehydrates and becomes either thick and/or grainy pretty quick. But it's your choice
@@ailllx9010 thanks for answering his question. It's really appreciated👍!