You guys don't stress it enough: placing IFP properly deep is absolutely critical!!! IFP has a cavity at the center and it is easy to overlook that the distance fox gives goes from the edge to the edge. For the first time I installed mine too shallow (measured from the edge to the bottom) and the consequences were absolutely dire - damaged seal inside the main shaft, possibly due to the piston violently colliding with IFP. Had to do a complete rebuild to repair it, which requires a few unique tools. Second thing: the rubber pellet. I tested some random oring rope as replacement and it initially worked ok, but eventually pressure cut clean hole in that rubber. You really need this rubber to be 90 Shore, as producer says. Anyway, the original pellet can survive more than one pumping, mine went through like 3 so far and it still holds pressure. Cheers to all home-grown servicemen :)
Thanks for the comment! Yes its important for the IFP to be a proper height, I feel the method I used is definitely within spec but if somebody is paranoid and wants it to be exact they can go ahead and buy the fox tool or make a special tool themselves :) Also I can assure 70A O-ring is definitely hard enough for the job and last a long time like the original 90A, I have done this job at least 5 times on different shocks and none of them have had issues and many others have used 70A without issue, using a random shore o-ring is definitely a no no, cheers!
Hey Jack, very well done, one of the better videos on TH-cam, a few tips for you: remove bush pin, ensure fluid goes all the way down piston rod/damper shaft you can use a syringe to squirt or drop the oil down inside, submerge piston in oil before screwing sealhead onto damper body as this help to remove air bubbles, once a few threads are engaged remove from vice and orientate bleed hole upwards and screw on fully, this helps to purge remaining bubbles, with a syringe inserted into bleed hole force more fluid in to purge last remaining air bubbles. But very good video. Richie
Thanks for the kind words and the great tips Richard! I actually was thinking about using a syringe at the end to further help fill all the holes with fluid, for sure I will be doing that next time :) When I installed it incorrectly and some air bubbles were trapped inside the shock actually still felt normal in open and firm mode but when I was in lockout mode that is when it was very noticeable that I had air bubbles inside because the lockout was not as locked out as I remembered, after doing the job correctly now my lockout is fantastic and only has about 1mm of movement which is how it always worked. Next time I change the damper fluid I will use a syringe to see if it gets even more air out and makes the lockout even better :)
@@MTBfixHQ Hi congratulations for your video. One question: when you had air left inside and you set medium or total block, if you lifted the bike and dropped it on the ground, did it make a very loud clicking sound? like something playing on the chassis ? This problem happened to me
@@SaettaJ Sorry I do not remember hearing anything like that, I only had a little bit of air trapped inside and I only noticed it when I put the shock in full lockout, there was a little bit of travel before it locked out, other then that I did not have any weird sounds like that, sorry wish I had more insight for you. Sometimes pivot bearings can make loud clicking sounds that travel through the frame when they get old and worn out
Great video! Not much good information on the web on this topic, so I was really excited to come across your video. Now, I feel confident to tackle this project. Thanks for posting this.
This is why I made the video :) I couldn't find any video showing how to do it! So after I figured it out and realized its actually easier then it seems I decided to make this video to help people out and i'm glad its doing that, Cheers
Hi great video thanks for the effort! Would it be possible to just put new oil in without removing the IFP? Would the depth be unchanged? so just remove pressure then pour out old oil and no cleaning or fiddling and pouring in new oil. reinstal and pressurize.
Good question, I wouldn't suggest it because over time air usually finds its way through the IFP into the oil which in turn will change the IFP depth, also if any oil leaked out it will also change IFP depth. I would suggest if you go through with changing the oil that you simply measure the IFP with a Vernier after removing air and oil to see if its at the correct depth as the fox chart, if its not then you can easily adjust it like the way I do in the video, good luck!
Nice video. Quick question, can you reuse the puck a few times? And does the puck/pellet stop air coming out after you inflate it and just before you tighten with the allen key?
Yeah I think the puck should be reusable a few times, also yes the puck stops air from coming out as you pump it up because you tighten the allen key a bit before pumping, but you don't tighten it fully when putting air because it will make it too hard to pull the needle out. if you notice air coming out as you are pumping it up you just need to snug up the allen key a little more. Its actually really hard for the air to escape through the hole the needle creates even when the bolt is pretty loose, the air finds it way around the puck first, when you pull the needle out you will hear a blast of air but don't worry that's just coming out of the pump and not the shock, cheers
I replaced the plug with one of these, MOTORCRAFT CM-3461. It screws right in the shock where the plug goes and then you can air it up like a tire. I used my old crane creek air shock pump similar to what your using because most tire air compressors only get you up to maybe 120psi which would be better then nothing if that’s all you have. Now I can just push the valve in and let the air out and fill back up easily if needed. Last time I checked it about a year after I did this it was still had pressure in it. Any opinion on using these good or bad?
HI, Yeah if you check out the video description you will see I linked one of those products, I have never used one but they should work just fine! but since it sticks out you need to make sure it will fit the frame without contact, also since you rarely need to fill it up with air I just prefer to use the needle since its cheaper
Hello Jack, when i finally found your video it was the best explanation out there and understood imediately what i have to do and i just disassembled my old Fox triad shock ( which no service guy wants to service it :( ..) i have put it back toghether, despite i couldn`t sort it how to remove the shock inner thin tube through which the setting rod from blue lever comes in...but i cleaned everything and mounted back. I don`t find a 5 mm o ring...i was thinking to use a seal from a syringe...is quite like the silicone o ring...what do you think? cheers
what do you mean 5mm oring? are you talking about the rubber puck used to fill the air with needle? If you still have the original rubber puck I would re-use it, the rubber should be pretty hard , from my memory the rubber piece in a syringe is too soft, it should not squish when you pinch it with your fingers
I have a rp23 shock and planning on doing this service, just waiting on the needle and oil to arrive. Is 500 psi a specific amount that it tells you to use? I thought they originally were filled with nitrogen? Great video BTW 👍
Thanks! I have no experience with the rp23 shock but its an older model and I would imagine there are some differences between it and the DPS models, like IFP height and pressure. 500 psi it what fox says to put into the DPS model. Fox does recommend putting nitrogen inside but it doesn't make any real world difference, rockshox shocks use regular air in the IFP, also regular air already consists of 78% nitrogen :) You might need to do a google search to find some instructions for your model
the Rp 23 has 450-500 psi, if you have nitrogen you will certainly have less effort than with its pump, it is a very high pressure. It's a very complex mono to disassemble and assemble, in the service kit there aren't all the seals if you disassemble it all piece by piece, I got some o rings from the hardware store.
Thanks for the thorough video and follow up. One question about the set screw...did yours already have a hole drilled in it? Mine does not, so I guess I need to do that part. Any issues with losing pressure now that its been a while? I'm not convinced the set screw and puck will hold all that PS if they have holes in them. Cheers!
Yours does not have a hole in the set screw? very weird because I don't know they would get the air inside... double check maybe there is dirt in the hole or something. Believe it or not the puck does a great job holding the air in, you really need to loosen the set screw a lot before you hear any air come out
Hello!How old that oil was before replace? It seems to be fine? I have done around 400 hrs now without full service and it is still working perfectly well
The oil is brand new, I made this video a few days after changing the oil the first time because I made a small mistake, when I originally changed the oil it was dark and had lots of bubbles in it. To be honest I wouldn't worry too much about doing this procedure if your shock is working perfectly fine, the procedure will just give you some extra damping performance which I think most riders probably wouldn't even know unless you are in tune with your bike :)
@@MTBfixHQ Ok i hear u. Fox recommends 4 full servicr once per year or 200 hrs. My rear shock came with the bike and it is 10 months old but way over 200 hrs 🤷 I have done air can service twice and i clean dust seal after every ride. I think that it help a lot. Obviously damper oil will go bad at some point but when 🤷
@@enjoylife756 You seem to be taking good care of it, I know too many people who literally never service the rear shock, they go years without doing anything lol. Basic maintenance of the shock is much more important then changing the damper fluid.
Jack et al, when I slide the chopped down soccer ball inflator needle down the channel that I cut into the 4mm Allen wrench, where does the needle go exactly? Is it just the air pressure created that drives thru the hole in the set screw and past the rubber pellet? Or do you advance the needle into the hole in the set screw? If so, how narrow does the needle need to be? Like a 22g needle for medical stuff? Would a tiny O ring work to create the necessary pressure?
Hi Brian, that is correct the needle in the kit I linked is 22g. The needle gets pushed through the rubber puck, so you need to install the rubber puck, then tighten the set screw down and then remove the allen key, then push the needle through the puck and starting filling with air, if you hear air leaking before you get to 500 psi you can use the allen key to tighten the set screw a little more, once you get to 500 psi you can tighten the set screw a little more before removing the needle but if you tighten it too much the needle will be hard to pull out and you might need to loosen the set screw a little to be able to pull it out, once you pull the needle out you should hear air come out from the pump and needle side, but you shouldn't hear air come out of the shock body, hope this makes sense
Hi, great video. Just one question - if I understand correctly you could set IFP depth by just screwing shock together (not a can) and by fully compressing it, so IFP will be pushed down to the correct depth? Doing this your way with calipers - you measure it from the top of the piston to the top of the seal? I have checked Fox tool to do this and it costs $160 😮 That puck you put in shock in 8:05 is this Fox Pellet 010-00-011-A? Cause at the end you put black cord 7mm oring instead of white delrin ball? Many thanks
Thanks, you definitely cannot set IFP depth that way, you need to set its depth the way I show you in the video and yes the original fox tool is ridiculously expensive! Yes I use a piece of o-ring cord as the fox pellet which goes behind the set screw to hold in the air, on the other side of the set screw fox uses the white delrin ball for safety, they do not want people working on the IFP chamber because of high PSI and it can be dangerous so they jam the white ball in, to make things easier for me in the future I decided to just use a piece of o-ring cord to cover the set screw instead of white delrin ball, I just use it to keep the set screw clean but in reality you do not need to put anything after the set screw but the set screw will probably fill with dirt, not a big deal
@@MTBfixHQ ok, thank you for clarification. So regarding the retiner screw - first you put piece of o-ring cord (which needle go through to put pressure in and it seals it up), then tighten it with screw, and then piece of o-ring again just to keep dirt away from scre hole? Many thank
Hi friend, I want to ask you to build the drilled key how to do it, I can not drill it slips, my fox rpl 165x38mm the piston ifp to how many mm do I have to lower it? thanks immensely👍
Sorry I tried looking for the IFP depth for your shock but I could not find it, for that you most likely need to contact fox support, they always did a good job answering my questions. As for the hex key you cannot use a drill the key is too strong, you need to use a rotary tool with cut off disc like I show in the picture in the video, you use it to cut the groove into the hex key
I should have mention in my video that my fill tool I purchased had this same problem, it was leaking around 50-100psi, it turns out it was leaking from the threads of the tool, I took the tool apart and added teflon tape to the threads and no more leaks, you can check exactly where its leaking from by spraying some soapy water on the tool as you are filling, if its not leaking from the tool then you most likely just need to tighten the set screw a little more before you start adding the air.
@@MTBfixHQ Thanks so much for the video and replying! I suspected exactly the same thing but my threads had some type of pipe thread sealant already on them. I cleaned it off and added Teflon tape but still didn't help. I found that I had to add an o-ring and Teflon tape to the metal nipple that the needle mounts to before you screw on the cap that presses it down. I'm sure my kit was made in China, got it from Amazon but it looks exactly like yours in the video. Thankfully I have a DPX2 that only requires 150 psi charge, I cant imagine (nor do I have the shock pump) trying to get to the 500 psi required by the DPS shocks!
@@srheuser Yeah these tools are quite cheap, glad you got it figured out :) im surprised it was leaking from that spot.... maybe the plastic part of the needle wasn't smooth, and yeah 500 psi is pretty tough, requires lots of force on the shock pump!
hello, disassembling my 2008 fox rpl I made a mess, I disassembled the cap because I ruined it, unscrewing the piston all the reeds came out, and I don't know how to position them correctly, could you help me? if you have the email I will send you everything. Thank you so much
I want to help but sorry I have no experience with that shock... also I am too busy right now with work I have no time to research it, but your best bet is to email fox service I imagine they will help you, they always helped me
@@MTBfixHQ Hi, yes, I solved it, I called a specialized center in Italy and they helped me by sending me the reconstruction triad of that year. Thanks a lot anyway🙏🏻🙏🏻👍👍
Thanks for the video. If I could ask a question *tries not to sound stupid* I'm assuming it's the bearing that you use the needle to get past and that it's the bearing that holds the pressure and the plastic pellet is purely to prevent dirt ingress? Thanks
I am not entirely sure what you mean, but the bearing is the piece that you loosen with the adjustable wrench, it threads onto the top of the shock body. The bottom of the shock body is where you use the needle to fill with air. Behind the set screw is the black rubber pellet which is what holds the air in once you tighten the set screw down. The original white delrin ball that you remove from the set screw with the pick is only there to prevent dirt ingress ( but I also assume fox puts it there to make it hard for the average user to service the damper fluid since it can be dangerous and they make more money lol). I cut a piece of my o-ring to put inside the set screw to prevent dirt ingress and its a lot easier to remove compared to the white delrin ball for future servicing. Hopefully this answers your question
lol I love to help but I am too busy this summer, if you are in the states you can check with fox to see how much they charge for the service, maybe the price isn't too bad but in Canada its around $150-200 I think
You guys don't stress it enough: placing IFP properly deep is absolutely critical!!! IFP has a cavity at the center and it is easy to overlook that the distance fox gives goes from the edge to the edge. For the first time I installed mine too shallow (measured from the edge to the bottom) and the consequences were absolutely dire - damaged seal inside the main shaft, possibly due to the piston violently colliding with IFP. Had to do a complete rebuild to repair it, which requires a few unique tools. Second thing: the rubber pellet. I tested some random oring rope as replacement and it initially worked ok, but eventually pressure cut clean hole in that rubber. You really need this rubber to be 90 Shore, as producer says. Anyway, the original pellet can survive more than one pumping, mine went through like 3 so far and it still holds pressure. Cheers to all home-grown servicemen :)
Thanks for the comment! Yes its important for the IFP to be a proper height, I feel the method I used is definitely within spec but if somebody is paranoid and wants it to be exact they can go ahead and buy the fox tool or make a special tool themselves :) Also I can assure 70A O-ring is definitely hard enough for the job and last a long time like the original 90A, I have done this job at least 5 times on different shocks and none of them have had issues and many others have used 70A without issue, using a random shore o-ring is definitely a no no, cheers!
I really appreciate that you went to the effort of creating this video to share your knowledge.
Thank you 👍
Hey Jack, very well done, one of the better videos on TH-cam, a few tips for you: remove bush pin, ensure fluid goes all the way down piston rod/damper shaft you can use a syringe to squirt or drop the oil down inside, submerge piston in oil before screwing sealhead onto damper body as this help to remove air bubbles, once a few threads are engaged remove from vice and orientate bleed hole upwards and screw on fully, this helps to purge remaining bubbles, with a syringe inserted into bleed hole force more fluid in to purge last remaining air bubbles. But very good video. Richie
Thanks for the kind words and the great tips Richard! I actually was thinking about using a syringe at the end to further help fill all the holes with fluid, for sure I will be doing that next time :) When I installed it incorrectly and some air bubbles were trapped inside the shock actually still felt normal in open and firm mode but when I was in lockout mode that is when it was very noticeable that I had air bubbles inside because the lockout was not as locked out as I remembered, after doing the job correctly now my lockout is fantastic and only has about 1mm of movement which is how it always worked. Next time I change the damper fluid I will use a syringe to see if it gets even more air out and makes the lockout even better :)
@@MTBfixHQ Hi congratulations for your video. One question: when you had air left inside and you set medium or total block, if you lifted the bike and dropped it on the ground, did it make a very loud clicking sound? like something playing on the chassis ? This problem happened to me
@@SaettaJ Sorry I do not remember hearing anything like that, I only had a little bit of air trapped inside and I only noticed it when I put the shock in full lockout, there was a little bit of travel before it locked out, other then that I did not have any weird sounds like that, sorry wish I had more insight for you. Sometimes pivot bearings can make loud clicking sounds that travel through the frame when they get old and worn out
Great video! Not much good information on the web on this topic, so I was really excited to come across your video. Now, I feel confident to tackle this project. Thanks for posting this.
This is why I made the video :) I couldn't find any video showing how to do it! So after I figured it out and realized its actually easier then it seems I decided to make this video to help people out and i'm glad its doing that, Cheers
@@MTBfixHQ THANK YOU KUDOS
Thanks so much for doing this video
Glad to help!
Thank you very much for this video!
Hi great video thanks for the effort! Would it be possible to just put new oil in without removing the IFP? Would the depth be unchanged? so just remove pressure then pour out old oil and no cleaning or fiddling and pouring in new oil. reinstal and pressurize.
Good question, I wouldn't suggest it because over time air usually finds its way through the IFP into the oil which in turn will change the IFP depth, also if any oil leaked out it will also change IFP depth. I would suggest if you go through with changing the oil that you simply measure the IFP with a Vernier after removing air and oil to see if its at the correct depth as the fox chart, if its not then you can easily adjust it like the way I do in the video, good luck!
Yes mine is 55mil stroke 150 travel
thx!
You're welcome!
Coool. Thanks man.
Glad to help!
But what about the nitrogen?!!! Jk. Great video. Thx for sharing!
Nice video. Quick question, can you reuse the puck a few times? And does the puck/pellet stop air coming out after you inflate it and just before you tighten with the allen key?
Yeah I think the puck should be reusable a few times, also yes the puck stops air from coming out as you pump it up because you tighten the allen key a bit before pumping, but you don't tighten it fully when putting air because it will make it too hard to pull the needle out. if you notice air coming out as you are pumping it up you just need to snug up the allen key a little more. Its actually really hard for the air to escape through the hole the needle creates even when the bolt is pretty loose, the air finds it way around the puck first, when you pull the needle out you will hear a blast of air but don't worry that's just coming out of the pump and not the shock, cheers
My dpx2 calls for 5wt but can you use 15wt oil in it?
I replaced the plug with one of these, MOTORCRAFT CM-3461. It screws right in the shock where the plug goes and then you can air it up like a tire. I used my old crane creek air shock pump similar to what your using because most tire air compressors only get you up to maybe 120psi which would be better then nothing if that’s all you have. Now I can just push the valve in and let the air out and fill back up easily if needed. Last time I checked it about a year after I did this it was still had pressure in it.
Any opinion on using these good or bad?
HI, Yeah if you check out the video description you will see I linked one of those products, I have never used one but they should work just fine! but since it sticks out you need to make sure it will fit the frame without contact, also since you rarely need to fill it up with air I just prefer to use the needle since its cheaper
Hello Jack, when i finally found your video it was the best explanation out there and understood imediately what i have to do and i just disassembled my old Fox triad shock ( which no service guy wants to service it :( ..) i have put it back toghether, despite i couldn`t sort it how to remove the shock inner thin tube through which the setting rod from blue lever comes in...but i cleaned everything and mounted back. I don`t find a 5 mm o ring...i was thinking to use a seal from a syringe...is quite like the silicone o ring...what do you think? cheers
what do you mean 5mm oring? are you talking about the rubber puck used to fill the air with needle? If you still have the original rubber puck I would re-use it, the rubber should be pretty hard , from my memory the rubber piece in a syringe is too soft, it should not squish when you pinch it with your fingers
Changing Seals is overengineered?
Hi! Is this a 100 hour service? And in what case is the shock absorber head disassembled with special fox tools? Thanks
I have a rp23 shock and planning on doing this service, just waiting on the needle and oil to arrive. Is 500 psi a specific amount that it tells you to use? I thought they originally were filled with nitrogen?
Great video BTW 👍
Thanks! I have no experience with the rp23 shock but its an older model and I would imagine there are some differences between it and the DPS models, like IFP height and pressure. 500 psi it what fox says to put into the DPS model. Fox does recommend putting nitrogen inside but it doesn't make any real world difference, rockshox shocks use regular air in the IFP, also regular air already consists of 78% nitrogen :) You might need to do a google search to find some instructions for your model
the Rp 23 has 450-500 psi, if you have nitrogen you will certainly have less effort than with its pump, it is a very high pressure. It's a very complex mono to disassemble and assemble, in the service kit there aren't all the seals if you disassemble it all piece by piece, I got some o rings from the hardware store.
Is your RP23 Boost Valve? It should have a triple digit number. Set the IFP pressure to that. If it doesn't have Boost Valve, then set to 500 psi.
Thanks for the thorough video and follow up. One question about the set screw...did yours already have a hole drilled in it? Mine does not, so I guess I need to do that part. Any issues with losing pressure now that its been a while? I'm not convinced the set screw and puck will hold all that PS if they have holes in them. Cheers!
Yours does not have a hole in the set screw? very weird because I don't know they would get the air inside... double check maybe there is dirt in the hole or something. Believe it or not the puck does a great job holding the air in, you really need to loosen the set screw a lot before you hear any air come out
I stand corrected! Good point - now lets hope the needle I ordered fits just fine through that hole.
Is that the same as the nude trunnion
Yup, this shock came on my 2017 scott spark rc pro. I switched the bearing assembly to convert it from 40mm to 45mm stoke for 120mm travel
Hello!How old that oil was before replace? It seems to be fine? I have done around 400 hrs now without full service and it is still working perfectly well
The oil is brand new, I made this video a few days after changing the oil the first time because I made a small mistake, when I originally changed the oil it was dark and had lots of bubbles in it. To be honest I wouldn't worry too much about doing this procedure if your shock is working perfectly fine, the procedure will just give you some extra damping performance which I think most riders probably wouldn't even know unless you are in tune with your bike :)
@@MTBfixHQ Ok i hear u. Fox recommends
4 full servicr once per year or 200 hrs. My rear shock came with the bike and it is 10 months old but way over 200 hrs 🤷 I have done air can service twice and i clean dust seal after every ride. I think that it help a lot. Obviously damper oil will go bad at some point but when 🤷
@@enjoylife756 You seem to be taking good care of it, I know too many people who literally never service the rear shock, they go years without doing anything lol. Basic maintenance of the shock is much more important then changing the damper fluid.
@@MTBfixHQ Thanks for this info :)
@@MTBfixHQ Yes i have but then again shaft oil viscosity wont last forever due the usage despite how clean and lubricated air can is
Jack et al, when I slide the chopped down soccer ball inflator needle down the channel that I cut into the 4mm Allen wrench, where does the needle go exactly? Is it just the air pressure created that drives thru the hole in the set screw and past the rubber pellet? Or do you advance the needle into the hole in the set screw? If so, how narrow does the needle need to be? Like a 22g needle for medical stuff? Would a tiny O ring work to create the necessary pressure?
Hi Brian, that is correct the needle in the kit I linked is 22g. The needle gets pushed through the rubber puck, so you need to install the rubber puck, then tighten the set screw down and then remove the allen key, then push the needle through the puck and starting filling with air, if you hear air leaking before you get to 500 psi you can use the allen key to tighten the set screw a little more, once you get to 500 psi you can tighten the set screw a little more before removing the needle but if you tighten it too much the needle will be hard to pull out and you might need to loosen the set screw a little to be able to pull it out, once you pull the needle out you should hear air come out from the pump and needle side, but you shouldn't hear air come out of the shock body, hope this makes sense
Hi, great video. Just one question - if I understand correctly you could set IFP depth by just screwing shock together (not a can) and by fully compressing it, so IFP will be pushed down to the correct depth? Doing this your way with calipers - you measure it from the top of the piston to the top of the seal? I have checked Fox tool to do this and it costs $160 😮
That puck you put in shock in 8:05 is this Fox Pellet 010-00-011-A? Cause at the end you put black cord 7mm oring instead of white delrin ball?
Many thanks
Thanks, you definitely cannot set IFP depth that way, you need to set its depth the way I show you in the video and yes the original fox tool is ridiculously expensive! Yes I use a piece of o-ring cord as the fox pellet which goes behind the set screw to hold in the air, on the other side of the set screw fox uses the white delrin ball for safety, they do not want people working on the IFP chamber because of high PSI and it can be dangerous so they jam the white ball in, to make things easier for me in the future I decided to just use a piece of o-ring cord to cover the set screw instead of white delrin ball, I just use it to keep the set screw clean but in reality you do not need to put anything after the set screw but the set screw will probably fill with dirt, not a big deal
@@MTBfixHQ ok, thank you for clarification. So regarding the retiner screw - first you put piece of o-ring cord (which needle go through to put pressure in and it seals it up), then tighten it with screw, and then piece of o-ring again just to keep dirt away from scre hole? Many thank
@@funLad80 That is correct, just make sure to follow the instructions in the video exactly as you see, good luck!
@@MTBfixHQ many thanks!
Hi friend, I want to ask you to build the drilled key how to do it, I can not drill it slips, my fox rpl 165x38mm the piston ifp to how many mm do I have to lower it? thanks immensely👍
Sorry I tried looking for the IFP depth for your shock but I could not find it, for that you most likely need to contact fox support, they always did a good job answering my questions. As for the hex key you cannot use a drill the key is too strong, you need to use a rotary tool with cut off disc like I show in the picture in the video, you use it to cut the groove into the hex key
How do you get the needle to seal in the fill tool? Mine seems to start leaking after only about 50 to 100 psi.
I should have mention in my video that my fill tool I purchased had this same problem, it was leaking around 50-100psi, it turns out it was leaking from the threads of the tool, I took the tool apart and added teflon tape to the threads and no more leaks, you can check exactly where its leaking from by spraying some soapy water on the tool as you are filling, if its not leaking from the tool then you most likely just need to tighten the set screw a little more before you start adding the air.
@@MTBfixHQ Thanks so much for the video and replying! I suspected exactly the same thing but my threads had some type of pipe thread sealant already on them. I cleaned it off and added Teflon tape but still didn't help. I found that I had to add an o-ring and Teflon tape to the metal nipple that the needle mounts to before you screw on the cap that presses it down. I'm sure my kit was made in China, got it from Amazon but it looks exactly like yours in the video. Thankfully I have a DPX2 that only requires 150 psi charge, I cant imagine (nor do I have the shock pump) trying to get to the 500 psi required by the DPS shocks!
@@srheuser Yeah these tools are quite cheap, glad you got it figured out :) im surprised it was leaking from that spot.... maybe the plastic part of the needle wasn't smooth, and yeah 500 psi is pretty tough, requires lots of force on the shock pump!
hello, disassembling my 2008 fox rpl I made a mess, I disassembled the cap because I ruined it, unscrewing the piston all the reeds came out, and I don't know how to position them correctly, could you help me? if you have the email I will send you everything. Thank you so much
I want to help but sorry I have no experience with that shock... also I am too busy right now with work I have no time to research it, but your best bet is to email fox service I imagine they will help you, they always helped me
@@MTBfixHQ Hi, yes, I solved it, I called a specialized center in Italy and they helped me by sending me the reconstruction triad of that year. Thanks a lot anyway🙏🏻🙏🏻👍👍
@@tindaroleone1970 Glad you are making progress! :)
Thanks for the video. If I could ask a question *tries not to sound stupid* I'm assuming it's the bearing that you use the needle to get past and that it's the bearing that holds the pressure and the plastic pellet is purely to prevent dirt ingress?
Thanks
I am not entirely sure what you mean, but the bearing is the piece that you loosen with the adjustable wrench, it threads onto the top of the shock body. The bottom of the shock body is where you use the needle to fill with air. Behind the set screw is the black rubber pellet which is what holds the air in once you tighten the set screw down. The original white delrin ball that you remove from the set screw with the pick is only there to prevent dirt ingress ( but I also assume fox puts it there to make it hard for the average user to service the damper fluid since it can be dangerous and they make more money lol). I cut a piece of my o-ring to put inside the set screw to prevent dirt ingress and its a lot easier to remove compared to the white delrin ball for future servicing. Hopefully this answers your question
@@MTBfixHQ thanks
@@MTBfixHQ yeah I DO TO ALL HELEN BOLTS AND SCREWS WHEN YOU DO LOTS OF MUD TRAILS,AND MX BIKES
I would pay you to do this for me. Seriously...
lol I love to help but I am too busy this summer, if you are in the states you can check with fox to see how much they charge for the service, maybe the price isn't too bad but in Canada its around $150-200 I think