I’m trying to get into rally for real in a few years when I’m old enough. I hope to get an edge with the simulator and I think I’m pretty good getting around 200th in the world in the clubs events but they’re all on stock setup. That’s where my next step will be and this video helps a tone and if it’s able to translate into reality which I’d say it will you’ll have a big part to play in my future in the sport. Great video
Thank you very much! I also hope that sometime in the future I will be able to get my own car and compete in real rally. I hope you will be able to fulfill your dreams and get better and better at the club events! P.S. This was a very heartwarming comment! 🧡
When i built my own rally car for career mode which was a Mid engined WRC junior car. I severely underestimated the liftoff oversteer issues especially on the Sweden track. It was on edge a lot. I will try your advice and see if it helps. Thanks
@@noxnovaYT update: after adjusting the front and rear toe, increasing the preload on the differential. The car is so much easier to control and I can finally use the weight distribution advantage of the mid engine layout in the twisty stages. Also the rear camber was higher than the front camber by default for some reason so that may have been another factor as well
I am a complete noob to setups. This is an amazing video, more intuitive than anything I've watched in my 6 years circuit racing. I still got a bunch of questions though and would be incredibly happy if you took the time to answer those that you can. In any case this was really good, i can't sing the praise loud enough I am a little confused by the part where you say you get oversteer from a high rear LSD Driving Lock. I thought the point of a high Lock was to get better traction at the cost of understeer? Do the Differential principles apply differently to front and rear? is there any value in not having Differentials symmetrical? Did I get it right that essentially a high BRAKING Lock makes the car more stable/less prone to lockups under braking, but forces you into a straighter line while open brake lock makes lockups more dangerous because one wheel will keep spinning and that also gives you more agency to change your line slowing down allowing easier transition in the turn in phase? The Preload seemed a bit esoteric and just a tool to manipulate car balance, but i dont understand what you mean by "Depressing and releasing throttle on corner entry", because on corner entry i don't touch the throttle. This is just me being confused by what exactly you mean It seems like your approach to Brake Bias is exclusively to find the maximum stopping power. I always intuitively shifted it a bit rearwards because I like turning the car on the brakes from my experience with circuit sim racing. Is that an element I should ever consider or is it just maximum stopping power? Similar question for the ARB: is it strictly a tool to control stability when absorbing roughness? In circuit racing the ARB is mainly used to gain grip and control whether you want over or understeer. Is this a thing here or is it just about absorbing the road? Would you generally agree if I said the damper/spring/ARB all function by the principle: Soft -> better predictability and stability on rough terrain; Stiff -> More cornering grip to go actually fast?
Just perfect Video thank you so much for Explaining everything very clearly with animations and EXAMPLES TOO 😊just perfect Video I suggest to watch till the end it's full of informations for beginners and almost pro level too again thank you for this amazing content have a nice day guys❤.
Those are just mere introductions on how to set the cars for different kinds of terrains. Later on, I started making elaborate videos for each location, and I'm still working on them. For now, on my channel, you can find setup guides for Kenya, Croatia, Portugal, Italy, Mexico, Estonia, Finland and Greece will come out this week.
Great video! Just one question, isn't Fast Bump the one that absorbs the bumps? As in the damper compresses and releases quickly because of a small bump in the road, while the Slow Bump absorbs the jumps as it takes time between the damper to extention and retraction (due to the car being in the air for a bit)?
Great point! But not really. Let's call a bumpy road a road with small jumps that don't necessarily make the car lift off the ground. So when the car hits a small jump, the shock that has to be absorbed will be also small (slow). But a big jump that makes the car take off, upon landing the induced shock will be much higher (fast). So it's about the shock severity basically. Like I said at 08:10. 😁
As far as I know the only way to make credits in career mode is through the calendar events plus the bonuses form the benefactor if you manage to successfully complete them.
@@user23x7bnmqr4 So first let's start with the obvious ones: Body, Exterior, and Interior are just aesthetic stuff. The parts on the Mechanical tab on the other hand will have an impact on the car's performance in terms of durability and the ability to tune that part in the setup window before the race. But what I think is the most influential thing is the engine's position in the Drivetrain tab. Because the engine and the gearbox have such a big weight, they play a big role in setting the car's center of mass, which has the biggest influence on how the car drives and feels. In short for beginners, "Mid Engine" has the greatest balance, "Front Engine" is the easiest to drive, and "Rear Engine" is the hardest to drive. The best practice is to try them all and see which one you love the most. And don't forget, you can ask as many questions as you like and I will be very pleased to answer them all for you. 😊
helped me to improve a lot but i have a question: can i set this setup for wrc cars too or is this just for wrc2 cars? and... can we set this setup for other vehicle classes too?
Sure you can! The video explains the principle behind how every component works, which applies to every car class and even in real life. I chose a WRC2 car just to give some examples of how to approach the setups for each situation. But the principle is the same for any car.
@@noxnovaYT thanks for answer but this setup values in video cant put in wrc setup because wrc cars have other option values thats why i asked... for example: the damping values are different like in wrc2 car
@@daryuskeccaa Oh yeah, I see what you mean now. No, unfortunately...the values you see at the end of each example are for the Skoda Fabia RS Rally 2 only. But stay tuned because this week I'm starting a new "Setup Guide" series for the WRC 1 cars. 😁
@@noxnovaYT OOOO im very happy to hear that because i improved my times overall and in all surfaces i can tell you you are amazingly talented and i cant enough to thank you for your help thank you and your work
I guess that if you take a RWD car, set the driving and braking lock to 100, zero preload, and lower the tire and wheel friction in FF settings, it should be achievable at some degree. 😅
I know that some cars cannot reach 100%, but I also know some cars that can reach full lock. Take for example the Lancia Delta Integrale in Croatia and do this: front LSD 0% on all 3 settings, viscous diff 0, bias all the way to the rear (put the slider all the way to the left) and rear LSD on full lock with zero perload.
@@noxnovaYT where those setting ? I am using xsx with ts-xw. if you talking about FF for wheel? that doesn't make sense for me. its just setting for force feedback on the wheel not for the tire of the cars.
@@kennygo5053 Yes tire and wheel friction are forcefeedback settings, but I recomanded to lower those just to be easier to steer faster from left to right.
Your videos are great. I hope you keep creating them for WRC. They’ve been the best I’ve found so far
Thank you so much! I won't let you down that's for sure! 💪
I’m trying to get into rally for real in a few years when I’m old enough. I hope to get an edge with the simulator and I think I’m pretty good getting around 200th in the world in the clubs events but they’re all on stock setup. That’s where my next step will be and this video helps a tone and if it’s able to translate into reality which I’d say it will you’ll have a big part to play in my future in the sport. Great video
Thank you very much! I also hope that sometime in the future I will be able to get my own car and compete in real rally. I hope you will be able to fulfill your dreams and get better and better at the club events! P.S. This was a very heartwarming comment! 🧡
thats what i am looking for, found at last, only in this channel. thank you mate, subscripted!
Awesome, love to hear this! Thank you!
I have to ask since im an editor IRL, were you saying subscripted for fun or did you mean to say subscribed? 🙂
When i built my own rally car for career mode which was a Mid engined WRC junior car. I severely underestimated the liftoff oversteer issues especially on the Sweden track. It was on edge a lot. I will try your advice and see if it helps. Thanks
Great! I expect some feedback. 😁
@@noxnovaYT update: after adjusting the front and rear toe, increasing the preload on the differential. The car is so much easier to control and I can finally use the weight distribution advantage of the mid engine layout in the twisty stages. Also the rear camber was higher than the front camber by default for some reason so that may have been another factor as well
VERY UNDERRATED channel dude !
Your the setup guru !!
Using your guide I’ve gotten a few top 50 spots cannot thank you enough
Subbed 🤜🏽🤛🏽
Thank you so much! I'm really happy to hear this! 💪
Your guide helped me shave off 2 minutes to my time on Portugal and Italy. Thanks bro
Now this is a huuge improvement! Well done!
Great video, thank you
Glad you enjoyed it!
Im deeply in love with your accent
Thanks 👌
Super helpful was always to confused to tune cars this made complete sense
Glad to hear this! 😁
Sir, you have gained a like and a subscriber with this amazing video. I’ll be challenging your times soon in EA WRC when VR comes on April 30th !
Thank you so much! I will be waiting! 😎
I am a complete noob to setups. This is an amazing video, more intuitive than anything I've watched in my 6 years circuit racing. I still got a bunch of questions though and would be incredibly happy if you took the time to answer those that you can. In any case this was really good, i can't sing the praise loud enough
I am a little confused by the part where you say you get oversteer from a high rear LSD Driving Lock. I thought the point of a high Lock was to get better traction at the cost of understeer? Do the Differential principles apply differently to front and rear? is there any value in not having Differentials symmetrical?
Did I get it right that essentially a high BRAKING Lock makes the car more stable/less prone to lockups under braking, but forces you into a straighter line while open brake lock makes lockups more dangerous because one wheel will keep spinning and that also gives you more agency to change your line slowing down allowing easier transition in the turn in phase?
The Preload seemed a bit esoteric and just a tool to manipulate car balance, but i dont understand what you mean by "Depressing and releasing throttle on corner entry", because on corner entry i don't touch the throttle. This is just me being confused by what exactly you mean
It seems like your approach to Brake Bias is exclusively to find the maximum stopping power. I always intuitively shifted it a bit rearwards because I like turning the car on the brakes from my experience with circuit sim racing. Is that an element I should ever consider or is it just maximum stopping power?
Similar question for the ARB: is it strictly a tool to control stability when absorbing roughness? In circuit racing the ARB is mainly used to gain grip and control whether you want over or understeer. Is this a thing here or is it just about absorbing the road?
Would you generally agree if I said the damper/spring/ARB all function by the principle: Soft -> better predictability and stability on rough terrain; Stiff -> More cornering grip to go actually fast?
Thanks!😊
You are so welcome! Thank you very much for the huge support! 😊
Just perfect Video thank you so much for Explaining everything very clearly with animations and EXAMPLES TOO 😊just perfect Video I suggest to watch till the end it's full of informations for beginners and almost pro level too again thank you for this amazing content have a nice day guys❤.
Better listen to this man because he is talking straight facts right here! 💯
Thank you so much! Have a great day! 😊
Only thanks to this man I am 13 on the Leaderboard in Provodovice Central Europe Rally I did it only with grind and solid Setup thank you for it ❤
Good job! 💪 That's exactly what I want to hear!
Great explanation, very informative.
Glad it was helpful!
Nice and working setups, thx, i was little faster than you in Sweden with your setups👍
Haha, great to hear this! I only did around 15 laps on that map and focused on the setup rather than learning the track.
thank you thank you so much you helped me a lot :) please keep your work
I'm so glad to hear this! Be sure I will.
THX! Very helpfull. The Game si complete different now. :D
Thank you! I'm so happy to hear this! 😌
很詳細的解說並且舉例! 對我非常有幫助! 感謝!!
太感謝了
this is soooo helpful! thank you! 🎉🎉
And I'm sooo glad to hear this! 😁
@@noxnovaYT yes because i was really struggling understanding dampers from the videos ive watched but this one is so much easier to understand. ❤️
i fucking love this video
Love to hear this! 😁
Great guide thx !
Thank you! Glad you like it!
👍
👌
Why do you speed through the setup parts? I blink my eyes and you are already on the next screen
Those are just mere introductions on how to set the cars for different kinds of terrains. Later on, I started making elaborate videos for each location, and I'm still working on them. For now, on my channel, you can find setup guides for Kenya, Croatia, Portugal, Italy, Mexico, Estonia, Finland and Greece will come out this week.
Great video!
At 2:09 by lower you meant more closer to 0?
Thnaks! Yes, closer to zero. 👌
@@noxnovaYT got it!
Really good guide, clear explanation, so easy to understand. Thanks for the video.
@@solidcopy2822 Thank you so much! I'm glad it was helpful!
Molto interessante, grazie della consivisione
Grazie! Contento che ti piaccia.
Great video! Just one question, isn't Fast Bump the one that absorbs the bumps? As in the damper compresses and releases quickly because of a small bump in the road, while the Slow Bump absorbs the jumps as it takes time between the damper to extention and retraction (due to the car being in the air for a bit)?
Great point! But not really. Let's call a bumpy road a road with small jumps that don't necessarily make the car lift off the ground. So when the car hits a small jump, the shock that has to be absorbed will be also small (slow). But a big jump that makes the car take off, upon landing the induced shock will be much higher (fast). So it's about the shock severity basically. Like I said at 08:10. 😁
@@noxnovaYT oh boy, this is going to be hard to flip in my head :D. Thanks dude. Again great video!
@@the-skn Thank you! Anytime!
Salut. Foarte bun video! Ești din România?
Mersi mult! Da 🇷🇴
Hi. Can you give advice on how to make credits? Cus i have zero credits but i want to build my first car but its so high lol
As far as I know the only way to make credits in career mode is through the calendar events plus the bonuses form the benefactor if you manage to successfully complete them.
@@noxnovaYT okay! Thank you!
@@user23x7bnmqr4 Glad to help! 😁
@@noxnovaYT one more question, does the build of the car matter? sorry, I don't know much about rally racing 😅
@@user23x7bnmqr4 So first let's start with the obvious ones: Body, Exterior, and Interior are just aesthetic stuff. The parts on the Mechanical tab on the other hand will have an impact on the car's performance in terms of durability and the ability to tune that part in the setup window before the race. But what I think is the most influential thing is the engine's position in the Drivetrain tab. Because the engine and the gearbox have such a big weight, they play a big role in setting the car's center of mass, which has the biggest influence on how the car drives and feels. In short for beginners, "Mid Engine" has the greatest balance, "Front Engine" is the easiest to drive, and "Rear Engine" is the hardest to drive.
The best practice is to try them all and see which one you love the most.
And don't forget, you can ask as many questions as you like and I will be very pleased to answer them all for you. 😊
Do these settings work on any car or group?
Yes sir. These principles apply to every car and surface.
helped me to improve a lot but i have a question: can i set this setup for wrc cars too or is this just for wrc2 cars? and... can we set this setup for other vehicle classes too?
Sure you can! The video explains the principle behind how every component works, which applies to every car class and even in real life. I chose a WRC2 car just to give some examples of how to approach the setups for each situation. But the principle is the same for any car.
@@noxnovaYT thanks for answer but this setup values in video cant put in wrc setup because wrc cars have other option values thats why i asked... for example: the damping values are different like in wrc2 car
@@daryuskeccaa Oh yeah, I see what you mean now. No, unfortunately...the values you see at the end of each example are for the Skoda Fabia RS Rally 2 only. But stay tuned because this week I'm starting a new "Setup Guide" series for the WRC 1 cars. 😁
@@noxnovaYT OOOO im very happy to hear that because i improved my times overall and in all surfaces i can tell you you are amazingly talented and i cant enough to thank you for your help thank you and your work
is there any setup to make cars drift on Tarmac?
I guess that if you take a RWD car, set the driving and braking lock to 100, zero preload, and lower the tire and wheel friction in FF settings, it should be achievable at some degree. 😅
@@noxnovaYT but there is no 100% lock. Max value is around 50%.
I know that some cars cannot reach 100%, but I also know some cars that can reach full lock. Take for example the Lancia Delta Integrale in Croatia and do this: front LSD 0% on all 3 settings, viscous diff 0, bias all the way to the rear (put the slider all the way to the left) and rear LSD on full lock with zero perload.
@@noxnovaYT where those setting ? I am using xsx with ts-xw. if you talking about FF for wheel? that doesn't make sense for me. its just setting for force feedback on the wheel not for the tire of the cars.
@@kennygo5053 Yes tire and wheel friction are forcefeedback settings, but I recomanded to lower those just to be easier to steer faster from left to right.
You can further show your support by clicking the "Thanks" button. 🔝
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C&C Generals war ja auch ein reines Propagandaspiel, wenngleich auch auf satirische Art und Weise!
I'm still a bit confused about the dampers and springs. Does going left on the settings make them stiffer or softer?
Glad you asked! Go left (-) to go soft and go right (+) to go stiff.
Great video thank you.
Thanks! Glad it helped.
Love your Video THX!
Thanks! You are welcome!
Great video man!
Thanks! Glad you liked it!