Great job on the video. So many people put hot rods together and nothing ever works the way it's supposed to. Like having to pump the brakes every time you hit them. Or hard pedal, hard steering, etc. The list goes on! I'm going to check out your other videos.
I am just starting a hot rod build. It's pretty confusing as a first time project. This video was sooooo good. You explained things so well and made it really clear. It was concise and pretty complete. Thanks so much. Gonna check out your other videos too.
This video was really informative. We've been considering a dual reservoir master for Edna, our 1950 ford F1. It's drum/drum so I was stressing over what master to run.
Good video, very informative, especially with the pix. So what the heck does a 'residual valve even DO? Is it REALLY necessary? Is it just placed in line to F&R, 2lbs for front (disc) and 10lbs for rear (drum)? Thanks!
Great question, I have heard both yes an no. Some people will say the only time you need residual valves is then the master cylinder is lower than any of your brake line/fittings. Some people have told me that it does not matter where the master cylinder is the purpose of them is to keep the 2 or 10lbs of pressure on the pads at all times. I personally run them no matter what since these is very minimal risk in using them even if you don't need them.
Yes that is correct. However the minimal line pressure helps the wheel cylinder cups stay sealed. That 10lb of pressure will help the seal, and keep air from seeping past the cup in idle position. It takes over 50lbs of line pressure to move brake springs. So, I have a under cowl master drum drum system and still run the valve. Cheap insurance.
I installed a non-boosted brake system in my hot rod. It is a dual system with two reservoirs. The brakes work excellent but when one flex line broke, I had not brakes at all. This happened at the top of a large hill of course. In taking the cover off of the reservoirs, I see clean fluid in the front reservoir and dirty fluid in the rear. It seems that the rod passing through the bore isn't reaching the front port. There is no adjustment left on the rod. Any ideas? Thanks.
Although tough to diagnose problems via online here are some possible solutions and things to look into. 1. Its a bit odd that your brakes worked fine (before the hose issue) but at the same time it seems like now you are not getting enough rod travel since that is unlikely to change. I would research the rod length and make sure its not intended to be used on a booster set up. In other words the brake rods for booster set up vs non booster are often different lengths. 2. Another thing to check (depending on your proportion valve set up) is make sure you are using the appropriate port on the proportioning valve for the appropriate front or rear brakes. As an example, if your are using the rear port for the front brake system and you rely only on your front brakes then the rear port will not provide enough pressure to stop the car by the time your pedal reaches the floor. Hope the above helps! thanks for taking the time.
Great Job explaining. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
I can't tell you how much these videos are helping me!
Thanks Jim, I just saw your email too... sorry was on vacation :)
Great work man. I enjoy the content.
Thank you very much!
I've never even heard the term residual valve before. Good stuff. Thanks
These comments make it worth it … thank you 🤘🏽
Very nicely done. It’s great to see a young man interested in in cars vs being out in the streets doing the wrong things. Great job !
I appreciate the kind words! Many others like me out there, wanting to learn from the veterans and keep the tradition alive 👏🏽
Great job on the video. So many people put hot rods together and nothing ever works the way it's supposed to. Like having to pump the brakes every time you hit them. Or hard pedal, hard steering, etc. The list goes on! I'm going to check out your other videos.
Thanks Jerry, always great to get confirmation the information I’m sharing is solid. Enjoy the rest of the channel!
Very good video .
Thank you very much, glad you found it informative and appreciate you taking the time to comment.
I am just starting a hot rod build. It's pretty confusing as a first time project. This video was sooooo good. You explained things so well and made it really clear. It was concise and pretty complete. Thanks so much. Gonna check out your other videos too.
These comment make it worth it! I had the same struggle building mine and glad I helped solve a problem 🤘🏽 thanks
Excellent concise clear information if your building a hotrod .
Thank you! Glad your enjoying the content!
Thank you from Aussie
Amazing , thank you for watching and taking the time to comment 🤝🏽
Thanks, good content.I`m glad you made background music quieter. Subscribed !
Thanks Miro! well noted on the background music.. I did notice it get loud at times too
Great episode , you explain so easy to understand , got me thinking about building another rod
This means a lot B!
Thank you so much. Very much appreciated and helpful.
glad it helped! thanks for taking the time to comment
Great episode!
Thanks Man! felt like I had a lot to cover on this but hope it was as simple and easy to understand! Thanks for taking the time Zac!
This video was really informative. We've been considering a dual reservoir master for Edna, our 1950 ford F1. It's drum/drum so I was stressing over what master to run.
glad I could help! thank you for taking the time to comment!
@calirod no problem. We're trying to grow our channel too so we know how important it is to like and comment.
Good video, very informative, especially with the pix. So what the heck does a 'residual valve even DO? Is it REALLY necessary? Is it just placed in line to F&R, 2lbs for front (disc) and 10lbs for rear (drum)? Thanks!
The residual valve holds either 2 or 10 pounds of pressure in the line 🤘🏽 and yup
If brake master are mounted on fire wall do i still need residual valve, or are they for under body brake system mount, cheers.
Great question, I have heard both yes an no. Some people will say the only time you need residual valves is then the master cylinder is lower than any of your brake line/fittings. Some people have told me that it does not matter where the master cylinder is the purpose of them is to keep the 2 or 10lbs of pressure on the pads at all times. I personally run them no matter what since these is very minimal risk in using them even if you don't need them.
Yes that is correct. However the minimal line pressure helps the wheel cylinder cups stay sealed. That 10lb of pressure will help the seal, and keep air from seeping past the cup in idle position. It takes over 50lbs of line pressure to move brake springs. So, I have a under cowl master drum drum system and still run the valve. Cheap insurance.
I installed a non-boosted brake system in my hot rod. It is a dual system with two reservoirs. The brakes work excellent but when one flex line broke, I had not brakes at all. This happened at the top of a large hill of course. In taking the cover off of the reservoirs, I see clean fluid in the front reservoir and dirty fluid in the rear. It seems that the rod passing through the bore isn't reaching the front port. There is no adjustment left on the rod. Any ideas? Thanks.
Although tough to diagnose problems via online here are some possible solutions and things to look into.
1. Its a bit odd that your brakes worked fine (before the hose issue) but at the same time it seems like now you are not getting enough rod travel since that is unlikely to change. I would research the rod length and make sure its not intended to be used on a booster set up. In other words the brake rods for booster set up vs non booster are often different lengths.
2. Another thing to check (depending on your proportion valve set up) is make sure you are using the appropriate port on the proportioning valve for the appropriate front or rear brakes. As an example, if your are using the rear port for the front brake system and you rely only on your front brakes then the rear port will not provide enough pressure to stop the car by the time your pedal reaches the floor.
Hope the above helps! thanks for taking the time.