I run a 2s but still watch to gain knowledge. If I may offer a helpful hint, instead of using a rag when removing the filter, put a cheap disposable baby diaper under the filter. I learned this trick for changing the filter on my '00 Miata SE, also a sideways mounted filter. Used to have oil run all over the suspension and splash shield, not anymore since using this trick. As always, thanks for posting these videos. Jim
One thing I do different is I suck the old oil out threw the dipstick tube using a vacuum oil extractor. Doing this on about 300 outboards a year it leaves me with far little mess to clean up on the legs and lowers. Honda’s usually take a little bit longer due to the small dipstick tube compared to Yamahas and mercs
I find most marine mechanics around here to do that, and I do too sometimes. Most of the guys around here are doing the service on their slipway so it stops oil going into the water too. I don't think it gets as much of the heavy debris out of the bottom of the sump as draining it does but it's not likely to cause any huge problem.
I have a 2001 BF 50A 50 HP Honda. The Seloc repair manual says to use 10W-30 oil. A sticker on the engine cowling says to use 5W-30. I'm in the USA, in New Hampshire. The motor is on a 20 ft. pontoon boat, in a warm-water lake, from mid-spring to mid-fall. I'm pretty sure I'm OK with either one, and I usually use the 10-30. I'd appreciate your opinion. I've had the rig 5 years, and have maintained it well. Overall, it's in good shape.
Good evening sir. I have a 30hp Honda outboard and I have a problem. I put grease on the leg but it doesn't come out on the top of the engine, and the engine without the steering wheel I try to turn it left and right and it turns heavily how can I clean it inside and put new grease. thank you very much.
Hope you can read my comment and gave me some idea 💡, I got engine outboard 1987 mercury force i was testing the other day and I found water leaking by my spark plug 😆 yes from my spark plug, I don't what to do really isn't much marine mechanics around me,when I connect tho water on land and I start the engine water start coming out my spark plug ☹
HI Stu, I have this same Honda BF40 (2006) on my boat and from all the information I can gather (comparing part No.'s etc.) the only difference between it and the 50hp seem to be the size of the jets in the Carburettor. I'm not really thinking of trying it myself as I'm a fan of not fixing what aint broke but was just wondering if you have heard of conversions being done on this motor before? Edit* Disregard my last upon closer inspection the Carb assy's do have a different part No. Still I am curious if you have heard of these motors being up-converted?
Really enjoy the show. If you have the facilities to do so, it would be great to see a video that explains the sensors you find in a modern computer controlled outboard - what they do, how to check, what symptoms you see if they are faulty. Thanks!
I change my (Yamaha 9.9) oil using a syphon pump into the dipstick hole because the boat's always in the water. I tend to do it cold, my theory is that the cold oil will actually suck up better than thin oil, especially the last little bit. Thoughts?
It is very common with boat to suck through the dipstick hole. I personally don't think it will make a huge difference whether it is hot or cold. By the time you add a couple of litres of new oil and run the motor with a new filter it will be mostly clean.
cheers for that. If you ever get a boring winter we run a small Boatyard in the Isles of Scilly (off south west coast of England) and live on an island of 80... feel free to come and do a Uk summer and teach us a thing or two!!
Thank you for your videos, very helpful. I have a 1999 evinrude 50 hp e50pl4ee. I changed the oil and noticed it was milky. I flushed it and put new oil in, ran it for about 30 min and the oil didn't milk up any suggestions?
I would just keep an eye on it. It could be a slightly blown head gasket that is allowing cooling water to get into the sump oil or it could be the gasket under the powerhead.
@@DangarMarine thank you, I ran it for over an hour today and oil was clear, the oil drain plug was stripped, any issues with putting a longer oil drain plug In? I can't find a original replacement I did find one at the auto parts store that is a bit longer
Hi dangar i have a yamaha 50hp 2 stroke outboard motor and a wire on the back of the propeller smoked up snapped is that wire important and what is the wire
Stu, I have a johnson 150 like the one you did the sunk video on. The lower mount is destroyed with corrosion due to the plate on the stbd side having a hole in it. I have a few questions on removing it that I'm not sure of.
Hi Stu...I have a 2000 Suzuki df 50 four stroke and at start up I get one short beep and 1 quick oil light flash. No other beeping or flashing takes place during operation. Would this be a reminder for an oil change? Oil level is fine. I have not found anything in the manual yet that covers this alert......Thanks
Probably wont help but my 2014 50HP Tohatsu had a short flash of the oil light every 9 seconds, no beep , it was a reminder to change the oil after 100hrs of use . Had to do some weird procedure with the kill switch to reset it, was in the owners manual.
Great video, do you recommend changing the oil at the end of the season before putting into storage, or at the start before using the boat for the year, in Wisconsin USA so the off season is pretty long, about 6 months or so,
Thorough as usual! My instructor at Skagit Valley College Marine Tech in Anacortes WA USA uses Dangar Marine videos as examples all the time. Great stuff!
What are you saying Stu? That's my favorite part of your videos when you say something like, "Of course you should never use a socket in place of the recommended factory tool." (Picks up socket, gives it a few whacks with a mini-sledge, takes a swig 'o beer, continues with tutorial)
Good school up north. Down here north of Edmonds. I have been a Dangar fan for along time. Outboard motors are way different from working on vehicals especially ones that have been in salt water. He knows his stuff.
I've been in the Auto/Marine business for over 40 years, and I rarely watch one of your videos without learning something new. Love the videos - Keep them coming! 👍 The engine oil flush can be quite controversial, but I think every other oil change is a good idea. (provided the engine has had regular annual maintenance) Also, good tip on adding too much oil. Most people don't realize that.
I've enjoyed watching your maintenance video's but have heard mixed reviews about using engine flush. What are your views about potential damage from flush? Ty
Hello Dangar Stu. Have you ever known condensation to cause white "pudding" like material to form in Honda around dipstick tube and crankcase oil fill cap? Average temp. outside 40-45 deg. F.at this time.I have owned this 2005 Honda B F 9.9 D for 7 months and first evidence of this.I hope its condensation. I changed the thermostat and have yet to sea trial it.
You do see it, I think it might be more caused by steam from combustion. If the bulk of the oil isn't milky with emulsified oil I wouldn't be too worried.
If you ever get yellow foamy oil it can be overfill. Was struggling to figure out what it was until he talked about over fill. This is what I just had. When checking the dip stock oil was gushing out from the dipstick on my 30hp Tohatsu 4 stroke. Oil looked good but after running it went yellow and foamy and got oil light. Previous owner must have over filled it, maybe as a storage precaution I don’t know.
I do too. But in defense of this practice, and in support of those who don't, it can be tough to get the partially filled filters on the sideways mounts without losing some and making a mess. The secret I've found to avoid spilling out of a pre-filled filter is to keep it spinning no matter what. If you can keep a spin on it, centrifugal force keeps the oil against the wall of the filter. It's a bit of a trick to master, sort of like spinning a basketball to keep it on your finger tip. I don't mean you have to spin it so fast that it's a blur, just keep it rotating so that the liquid level in the filter won't make it up to the center hole and puke outward. The oil being cold and thick helps with this.
Be careful prefilling as any debris in the can will enter the engine without having gone through the filter and can cause serious damage. You won't ever see a professional shop prefill an oil filter. As further evidence that is isn't necessary the oil filter for the truck in the background points straight down so it just isn't possible at all!
@@DangarMarine I assume you mean the oil can? I use one litre bottles that come sealed. If there is anything in there that is not supposed to be it will end up in the sump anyway, Please, I am not complaining about your method, just stating my own. I am a licensed auto mechanic and have always used this method to avoid running the engine "dry" for as little time as possible. Back when we used conventional oil only we were doing oil changes VERY often and if the engine ran dry each time it "could" take many miles/kms off the life of the engine. On an outboard that perhaps only has its oil changed annually the difference would be negligible. Similarly when I rebuild an engine (4 stroke) I disconnect the ignition and crank it until the oil pressure comes up, then reconnect the ignition and run it. As for your truck, yes of course it would be quite impossible to prefill as it is in many of the newer vehicles using replaceable cartridges instead of spin on filters. However many of these newer vehicles also recommend synthetic oil which has better retention properties than conventional oils and will stick to the internal components better thus keeping them lubed longer. As with many things there is no set rule for ALL situations. This is indeed one of them. Again, I am not suggesting your method is wrong, just that I use a different method.
I have a Honda 25hp I have always run Valvoline 10-30 the motor is a 2000 model and never had any issue with automotive oil The engine has thousands of hours and does not burn any oil I believe Valvoline is the best oil to use
Hi thanks for the video , do you know if the z436 is compatable with the yamaha f60 four stroke ? It would be great to save some $ on these filters Regards Matty
The claimed differences are corrosion protection (I've never seen an outboard rust on the inside unless it has a blown head gasket) and being slightly tailored to the fact that outboards run at high RPM for long periods of time. My old Toyota ran at over 4K all the way up the freeway home so I don't see how high quality auto oil isn't up to the job.
@@PorkBarrel. Idling will glaze the bore. Also the synthetic oil will attract moisture. A lube expert told me this. Simply use a good mineral based group 2 or 3 base oil mix (semi synthetic )
Hiya Studio from Bangor Northern Ireland. Love all the vids they have been great for an enthusiastic novice boatmen like myself. Could I please ask do you ever use any sprays like PTFE on your outboards to guard against rust and shorts in the system? Regards and good luck with future projects. Johno
Hi there stu, I was wandering if you had any idea why my mariner 90hp 2 stroke (2005) keeps coughing and when I pull up idle lever on controls it splutters then poof it coughs up a huge gulp of smoke? It seems to be running very lumpy as well. Any advice would be much appreciated. Thank you and love your you tube films and of course Aussie humour!!
Did an oil and filter change today on my 2014 Tohatsu 50hp , previously had a HF199 oil filter ( changed in 2018 ) but bought a Z436 after seeing this video , these 2 filters look practically the same , the Ryco Z436 cheaper and easier to source and about 1/3rd the cost of a genuine Tohatsu filter....... Have used automotive engine oil before , seems to work fine but this time I put in Gulfwestern FC-W outboard oil 10w 40 , I could be wrong but think they have some extra anti wear additives eg zinc that are beneficial for 4 strokes with no catalytic converters .
Should of mentioned to smear clean oil on the o-ring on new filter and to check the old o-ring isnt stuck to block and give the sealing surface a wipe then after the job is done fire her up and check for leaks .
@@DangarMarine My apologies mate.Don't know how i missed that.Mrs must have nagged at that moment.Loving the content mate and congrats on the subscriber numbers you have.Keep up the great work.
Very good video for guys like me who services there own engine, I've a honda outboard and my local supplier will sell you expensive plugs, filters, oils etc.. glad I watched this video to see that reasonable filters and motor oil will do fine.. all your videos are very informative thank you for uploading 🙂🇨🇮🇨🇮
Got a 2008 bf50 second hand idels perfect compression is 135psi all 3 cylinders carbs are cleared up. can't push the boat pass 8 mph any idea sorry can't bring it to u for service I'm from Canada .boat is 17' aluminum
Thanks Stu, Very informative. I've just purchased a Honda BF50 outboard which has been sitting on a Macgregor 26. It's not been run for over 2 years and has been sitting in the heat (I live in Abu Dhabi in the UAE) so 45C during 6 month of the year. What would you recommend to do to flush out the old oil? It is common here for cars to have a steam flush to remove the residue and wondering if this might be an option for a 4 stroke OBM before I replace the oil.. Thanks
Lol I switched to TH-cam to check the captions. I thought you said at the end “for the sake of complainers” haha You’re my favourite go to channel for learning about my boat!
Honda BF 30 (2005 model) has its oil filter much lower and it is very difficult to prevent oil from leaking to the lower cover of the engine with just using some rag under the filter. Last year I tilted and turned the engine some times after I had originally emptied the motor oil from the main plug. I think there was less oil in the filter after these steps but it was not empty from oil exactly even then. However, I did, when the warranty was valid, take the engine to the professional service. And there was never any mess of used oil in the lower cover. So there must be some tricks on how to do the job cleanly even when the oil filter's position makes it difficult to apply a rag compact enough...
I like the advice about just using automotive oil . I found a valvoline semi synthetic that is recomended for my yammy 60 4/ and also my bf falcon . Same for the gearbox oil . Also . It's Great to reduce the number of different oils in he shed . Love the oil filter advice . Hey you could sell car oil filters re branded as danger marine oil filters at a great profit . 😀 Add marine to any product and double the cost .
One for the Australians- look up what the numbers with oil actually mean. Australians rarely would be running an engine in sub zero conditions so 10- or 20- oils are fine for our conditions. My car engine manual states to use 0-30 but I run it on 10-40 in winter, 20-50 in summer. I may lose a little in fuel economy but in our heat that extra viscosity is valuable off road and working hard ( turbo diesel) to stop metal touching metal. I also seemed to have less issues with EGR valves compared to the guys I travelled with . As for my outboard- I now run Tohatsu 50 TLDI and so the oil is a total loss ystem .
Hello. I have a 1989 Mercury 15 hp motor that is running rough. Can I assume there is no head gasket in this motor and that the deteriorated exhaust gasket is the problem?
hello genius! congratulations on your channel, it's very interesting! I have to change the leg seals to a honda 40 four stroke outboard, do you have any video or recommendation? From already thank you very much! greetings from Argentina!
Hey nice video . Hey can you help me with some thing I am working in a 15hp envinrude I have change reeds service carb change crank seals you name it compression around 90 the engine starts and run good when in gear the engine lacks power as I take the cover of the engine picks up the cover is clean no air blockage any ideas?
Greetings from Scotland, thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge of outboards, I'm sure you save a lot of people time and money myself included.
Hey danger Stu. Thanks for all the videos, really enjoy them. busy rebuilding the mid-section of a 90Hp Mercury Elpto. A little off topic but I am interested in you opinion here. Can you see any reason not to pressure wash a powerhead? As I've cleaned, rebuilt and resprayed the mid section and lower unit I'd like the powerhead to be clean to match and the quickest and easiest way I can determine is to spray it down with degreaser and pressure wash it (carefully). Can you see any reason not to do this? Thanks for the videos, look forward to the day you do them daily!
You are an awesome teacher. I used automotive oil filters and oil in my twin Yammie 115s and never had any problems, but I would not do that if motors had still been under factory warranty. The oil flush is a great idea! Thanks Mate 🇺🇸
Nice vid as usual Stu. Going to watch that timing belt session as one of those is in my future for my Yamaha. Got another video idea for you....last week during winterizing I managed to snap the head of the steering pivot grease fitting clean off. Ouch! Going to have to try to fish the remains out of the hole without destroying the threads. Ever do that??
Yes, that does happen. You should be able to get an EZ out into the centre of it and wind it out. A bit of heat onto the surrounding metal will help too.
Wish I had realized that running an outboard (yamaha 50) that had been stored improperly would cause hydrolock due to oil in cylinders and apparently major damage. Oil was forced out PAST plugs. Cleaned carb very thoroughly and replaced sparkplugs after doing shock treatment with yamaha carbon burn off chemicals and engine is still running very rough at low rpm, smoking, and only pushing boat at 1/3 speed. I am guessing that my next steps will be doing a compression test, making sure exhaust pipe is clear, and checking valves, and most likely I will end up referring to your videos for a total rebuild and replacement of con rods. In case you read this, is there anything else I should know at this point? At least the advantage of having a motor that was questionable before my incredibly stupid act is that I can assume basically everything is broken and use it as a free (sort of) college course in mechanics.
Unfortunately there is a chance a con rod was bent if it hydrolocked. Not much you can do about that other than rebuild. I wouldn't expect residual oil to take more than a few minutes to burn off completely.
My Yamaha F150 has always ran Yamalube Conventional and currently has almost 1300 hours, would there be any concern switching to a fully synthetic oil? Ive heard it may cause oil leaks or oil burning by removing carbon deposits that have closed clearance gaps. Id very much appreciate your opinion on this!
You can definitely have problems with anything that will clean an older motor, that's true. Also, don't go full synthetic as it tends to absorb water when used in a marine environment.
Hey Danger want to make a much needed video? Make one getting the impeller key out of a Yamaha that is corroded in slot I know you've been there done that. Not one video on the Tube
So? use smaller sails! :7) reality - always a wise decision to respect the ocean and weather. They don't play fair , never tempt them as they don't mind taking souls at any time. Fair weather bud.
I need to service my little honda 15hp which runs in fresh water only , so normal automotive oil will do aslong as its the right type for the engine ofcoarse ? :) , need to do full service before i cause any damage haha
Hi Stu. Can you make a video sometime on your view about blocking off or replacing an Evinrude VRO pump in favour of using 50:1 premixed fuel. Mine 1988 70hp seems to use an excessive amount of oil and cant regulate the VRO. My wash tank water is very oily. Cheers
Can definitely say that this has been a good way to go for me when I replaced an old 50hp merc with a 90's Johnson 90HP - It has a constant oil alarm. Chickened out of doing it myself, but pointed mechanic at goneoutdoors.com/switch-evinrude-90-hp-vro-fuel-pump-s-regular-fuel-pump-12175176.html
be weary of the spring the way its hooked on it can sometimes get caught and pop off. mines been missing it for years still works. one day was in a hurry and didnt check to be sure it was still there it went out the door with the unit i worked on
Our boat is kept on the water in a slip. Taking the boat out of the water just to change the oil would be impractical and inefficient (in other words, I'm too lazy). I could drain the oil into a pan over the water, but I'm afraid that the ecology zealots and fanatics will object when I spill the oil and cause a huge, shiny oil slick that covers the entire harbor. It would be helpful if sometime you could discuss sucking the old oil out of the engine through the filler opening or out of the dipstick tube. If I could get maybe 90% of the old oil out, I'd be satisfied. Also, please cover the use of a large sledge hammer when changing the oil - I find that a sledge hammer is always useful, even mandatory, no matter what the job is.
Sucking sump oil out through the dipstick tube is very common for mechanics that work on slipways like you are referring to. A sledge hammer is an excellent tool for ensuring the dripstick is all the way back in once the job is done. ;)
Hi i have a 4hp 1999 johnson outboard motor and when i give it full throttle it doesn't open up properly but at slow speed it works perfectly fine. I cleaned the carb and the jets already and changed the fuel filter but still no difference. Can you please help me?
Hi thanks for your reply. The throttle plate seem to work fine i think the problem is more about fuel but i changed and cleaned everything in the fuel system and still no difference.
Thank you so much for your help. I want you to tell me what is main problems, and the parts I should change when I have water flood Evenrude outboard motor?
Disconnect and clean water out from all the electrical connectors, clean the carburettor and you might need to replace the starter motor eventually if it was salt water.
@@DangarMarine thank you so much. For any more details I'll make sure to write to you. I wonder if you have a page, or account on Facebook, or if you use any social media, so I can easily sending you photos such as the motor and the parts in case. And how I can fix.
Great video,,,my 4 stroke is a mercury efi 60hp outboard, I have gas coming out of the overflow tube on the vapor canister could it be the float or needle? Can this happen if I prime the bulb to tight?
@@DangarMarine Thank you,,I'm not sure what a pressure sensor is, I will try and look it up online, again thank you for pointing me in a needed direction
Is the round regulator (aluminum) part inside vapor canister the pressure sensor? A little round screen on top of it, it ran great last time out before this gas over flow issue, the motor had been sitting 3years before I got it, thought I was ready to fish- hope you were treated well here in the U.S.
dangar is the one pot chef of the boating and outboard jobs
I run a 2s but still watch to gain knowledge. If I may offer a helpful hint, instead of using a rag when removing the filter, put a cheap disposable baby diaper under the filter. I learned this trick for changing the filter on my '00 Miata SE, also a sideways mounted filter. Used to have oil run all over the suspension and splash shield, not anymore since using this trick. As always, thanks for posting these videos. Jim
Thanks Jim, I might see if I can find some.
I’ve learned a lot from all of your videos, thank you sir
Great video, learned a lot from watching this! Thanks so much!
15 dislikes must be from the guys working at marine shops after you told everyone they don't need to buy overpriced "marine" products.
Agreed, anyone who dislikes this guy is either jealous or has some hidden motivation. Dangar Marine is the best marine mechanic on youtube bar none
Exactly was quoted 280 euro for 4 honda plugs and oil filter!!
Great vid Stu, as per usual
Love all your videos, so clear and informative. I have to ask though- do you use brake cleaner around the house too? Clean windows, dishes etc? 😂
One thing I do different is I suck the old oil out threw the dipstick tube using a vacuum oil extractor. Doing this on about 300 outboards a year it leaves me with far little mess to clean up on the legs and lowers. Honda’s usually take a little bit longer due to the small dipstick tube compared to Yamahas and mercs
I find most marine mechanics around here to do that, and I do too sometimes. Most of the guys around here are doing the service on their slipway so it stops oil going into the water too. I don't think it gets as much of the heavy debris out of the bottom of the sump as draining it does but it's not likely to cause any huge problem.
I have a 2001 BF 50A 50 HP Honda. The Seloc repair manual says to use 10W-30 oil. A sticker on the engine cowling says to use 5W-30. I'm in the USA, in New Hampshire. The motor is on a 20 ft. pontoon boat, in a warm-water lake, from mid-spring to mid-fall. I'm pretty sure I'm OK with either one, and I usually use the 10-30. I'd appreciate your opinion. I've had the rig 5 years, and have maintained it well. Overall, it's in good shape.
My Honda says 10W30. The 30 is more important anyway so I wouldn't stress too much about using either.
always something learned!! ba da bump bump ba.
Third......I was supprised on my BF45 to see the oil on the dip stick looking clean but when drained was very dirty
I often get the same on my cars and trucks. Of course, on a diesel, it doesn't take long at all for the oil to darken and look filthy.
Good evening sir. I have a 30hp Honda outboard and I have a problem. I put grease on the leg but it doesn't come out on the top of the engine, and the engine without the steering wheel I try to turn it left and right and it turns heavily how can I clean it inside and put new grease. thank you very much.
Hope you can read my comment and gave me some idea 💡, I got engine outboard 1987 mercury force i was testing the other day and I found water leaking by my spark plug 😆 yes from my spark plug, I don't what to do really isn't much marine mechanics around me,when I connect tho water on land and I start the engine water start coming out my spark plug ☹
Hello. Which manufacturer is the engine oil used and with what viscosity?
HI Stu, I have this same Honda BF40 (2006) on my boat and from all the information I can gather (comparing part No.'s etc.) the only difference between it and the 50hp seem to be the size of the jets in the Carburettor. I'm not really thinking of trying it myself as I'm a fan of not fixing what aint broke but was just wondering if you have heard of conversions being done on this motor before? Edit* Disregard my last upon closer inspection the Carb assy's do have a different part No. Still I am curious if you have heard of these motors being up-converted?
I would be keen to experiment with the upgrade one day.
Really enjoy the show. If you have the facilities to do so, it would be great to see a video that explains the sensors you find in a modern computer controlled outboard - what they do, how to check, what symptoms you see if they are faulty. Thanks!
I have a 4 stroke Tohatsu mfs 8a3 for the life of me I can’t find the oil filter. Is it possible for the 4 stroke to not have a oil filter???
I change my (Yamaha 9.9) oil using a syphon pump into the dipstick hole because the boat's always in the water. I tend to do it cold, my theory is that the cold oil will actually suck up better than thin oil, especially the last little bit. Thoughts?
It is very common with boat to suck through the dipstick hole. I personally don't think it will make a huge difference whether it is hot or cold. By the time you add a couple of litres of new oil and run the motor with a new filter it will be mostly clean.
Hi Stu, great videos! Just wondering if you ever get anydirect injection engines in for a video or 2? Cheers Dan
I’d like to get an old Etec on day to do a series of vids on but at the moment I don’t.
cheers for that. If you ever get a boring winter we run a small Boatyard in the Isles of Scilly (off south west coast of England) and live on an island of 80... feel free to come and do a Uk summer and teach us a thing or two!!
Thank you for your videos, very helpful. I have a 1999 evinrude 50 hp e50pl4ee. I changed the oil and noticed it was milky. I flushed it and put new oil in, ran it for about 30 min and the oil didn't milk up any suggestions?
I would just keep an eye on it. It could be a slightly blown head gasket that is allowing cooling water to get into the sump oil or it could be the gasket under the powerhead.
@@DangarMarine thank you, I ran it for over an hour today and oil was clear, the oil drain plug was stripped, any issues with putting a longer oil drain plug In? I can't find a original replacement I did find one at the auto parts store that is a bit longer
Hi dangar i have a yamaha 50hp 2 stroke outboard motor and a wire on the back of the propeller smoked up snapped is that wire important and what is the wire
Stu,
I have a johnson 150 like the one you did the sunk video on. The lower mount is destroyed with corrosion due to the plate on the stbd side having a hole in it. I have a few questions on removing it that I'm not sure of.
I'll hit ya on face book
Hi Stu...I have a 2000 Suzuki df 50 four stroke and at start up I get one short beep and 1 quick oil light flash. No other beeping or flashing takes place during operation. Would this be a reminder for an oil change? Oil level is fine. I have not found anything in the manual yet that covers this alert......Thanks
Probably wont help but my 2014 50HP Tohatsu had a short flash of the oil light every 9 seconds, no beep , it was a reminder to change the oil after 100hrs of use . Had to do some weird procedure with the kill switch to reset it, was in the owners manual.
@@roughas100 I changed the oil and did a reset with the kill switch and it seemed to work. Thanks for the reply...
Have you got yourself a landy stu?!? 😀
Yeah, bought that one a bit over a year ago now. Really loving it. :)
Awesome they’re so much fun love mine!
Great video, do you recommend changing the oil at the end of the season before putting into storage, or at the start before using the boat for the year, in Wisconsin USA so the off season is pretty long, about 6 months or so,
I would change it before the end of the season so it sits with clean oil in it for the winter.
Do a engine conversion to electric please!!!
One day. :)
Thorough as usual!
My instructor at Skagit Valley College Marine Tech in Anacortes WA USA uses Dangar Marine videos as examples all the time. Great stuff!
Thanks David. Funny to hear your teacher uses the videos. Hopefully not as examples of what not to do!
@@DangarMarine ask for royalties . 😁
What are you saying Stu? That's my favorite part of your videos when you say something like, "Of course you should never use a socket in place of the recommended factory tool." (Picks up socket, gives it a few whacks with a mini-sledge, takes a swig 'o beer, continues with tutorial)
@@DangarMarine Ha! On the contrary, you are highly esteemed and respected, an example of professionalism.
Good school up north. Down here north of Edmonds. I have been a Dangar fan for along time. Outboard motors are way different from working on vehicals especially ones that have been in salt water. He knows his stuff.
I've been in the Auto/Marine business for over 40 years, and I rarely watch one of your videos without learning something new.
Love the videos - Keep them coming! 👍
The engine oil flush can be quite controversial, but I think every other oil change is a good idea. (provided the engine has had regular annual maintenance)
Also, good tip on adding too much oil. Most people don't realize that.
Thanks mate, glad you've been enjoying the vids. :)
Adding the amount recommended by Yamaha ALWAYS overfills the oil. . .
Finally someone who shows the steps instead of just talking about it. Great video.
I've enjoyed watching your maintenance video's but have heard mixed reviews about using engine flush. What are your views about potential damage from flush? Ty
Hello Dangar Stu. Have you ever known condensation to cause white "pudding" like material to form in Honda around dipstick tube and crankcase oil fill cap? Average temp. outside 40-45 deg. F.at this time.I have owned this 2005 Honda B F 9.9 D for 7 months and first evidence of this.I hope its condensation. I changed the thermostat and have yet to sea trial it.
You do see it, I think it might be more caused by steam from combustion. If the bulk of the oil isn't milky with emulsified oil I wouldn't be too worried.
@@DangarMarine Thank-You Stu! Merry Christmas !
“ just give it a wipe with a small rag” ( has beach towel in hand)
If you ever get yellow foamy oil it can be overfill. Was struggling to figure out what it was until he talked about over fill. This is what I just had.
When checking the dip stock oil was gushing out from the dipstick on my 30hp Tohatsu 4 stroke.
Oil looked good but after running it went yellow and foamy and got oil light. Previous owner must have over filled it, maybe as a storage precaution I don’t know.
How come you never show all the good looking women that flock to boat mechanics? Your shop must be chock a block with them.
If ever one does turn up I'll be sure to get some video evidence. ;)
HaHa!
I always at least partially fill my oil filters.
I do too. But in defense of this practice, and in support of those who don't, it can be tough to get the partially filled filters on the sideways mounts without losing some and making a mess. The secret I've found to avoid spilling out of a pre-filled filter is to keep it spinning no matter what. If you can keep a spin on it, centrifugal force keeps the oil against the wall of the filter. It's a bit of a trick to master, sort of like spinning a basketball to keep it on your finger tip. I don't mean you have to spin it so fast that it's a blur, just keep it rotating so that the liquid level in the filter won't make it up to the center hole and puke outward. The oil being cold and thick helps with this.
Be careful prefilling as any debris in the can will enter the engine without having gone through the filter and can cause serious damage. You won't ever see a professional shop prefill an oil filter. As further evidence that is isn't necessary the oil filter for the truck in the background points straight down so it just isn't possible at all!
@@DangarMarine I assume you mean the oil can? I use one litre bottles that come sealed. If there is anything in there that is not supposed to be it will end up in the
sump anyway, Please, I am not complaining about your method, just stating my own. I am a licensed auto mechanic and have always used this method to avoid
running the engine "dry" for as little time as possible. Back when we used conventional oil only we were doing oil changes VERY often and if the engine ran dry each time it "could" take many miles/kms off the life of the engine. On an outboard that perhaps only has its oil changed annually the difference would be negligible. Similarly
when I rebuild an engine (4 stroke) I disconnect the ignition and crank it until the oil pressure comes up, then reconnect the ignition and run it. As for your truck, yes of course it would be quite impossible to prefill as it is in many of the newer vehicles using replaceable cartridges instead of spin on filters. However many of these
newer vehicles also recommend synthetic oil which has better retention properties than conventional oils and will stick to the internal components better thus keeping
them lubed longer. As with many things there is no set rule for ALL situations. This is indeed one of them. Again, I am not suggesting your method is wrong, just that I use a different method.
I have a Honda 25hp I have always run Valvoline 10-30 the motor is a 2000 model and never had any issue with automotive oil The engine has thousands of hours and does not burn any oil I believe Valvoline is the best oil to use
Really helpful video. Thanks!
You're welcome!
I don’t own a four stroke but I love learning new things because you never know when the info will be useful .. great tutorial once again 👍👍👍
This process is the same for any four stroke motor (cars etc) so you never know when you will need to do it! :)
Hi thanks for the video , do you know if the z436 is compatable with the yamaha f60 four stroke ?
It would be great to save some $ on these filters
Regards
Matty
F60 Yamaha uses the same filter as a Toyota Corolla 2001.
Excellent video as always. I just managed to unblock my tell tale after watching one of your other videos on unblocking a tell tale, thanks!
my oil valve has a fixed yellow cap that appears to be sealed on and two little nodes instead of a plectrum..is it meant to be fixed...!
Whats the correct lenght on Honda bf20 dipstick
Can you do a video showing how to replace the rusty engine mount on the bf40?
Sure, I happen to have one in the shop at the moment that I was given as it has a blown head gasket so I'm planning to use it for future videos.
@@DangarMarine that would be awesome. Thanks
I can't find that Quicksilver oil filter anywhere?
Good vid. Always wondered about the automotive verse marine oil. Likely little difference ?
The claimed differences are corrosion protection (I've never seen an outboard rust on the inside unless it has a blown head gasket) and being slightly tailored to the fact that outboards run at high RPM for long periods of time. My old Toyota ran at over 4K all the way up the freeway home so I don't see how high quality auto oil isn't up to the job.
@@DangarMarine No need for marine oil. the main thing is that don't go for a fully synthetic.
@@davidlove7825 Why not?
@@PorkBarrel. Idling will glaze the bore. Also the synthetic oil will attract moisture. A lube expert told me this. Simply use a good mineral based group 2 or 3 base oil mix (semi synthetic )
@@davidlove7825 Are you saying the motor doesn't get hot enough to burn off moisture caused from condensation?
Hiya Studio from Bangor Northern Ireland. Love all the vids they have been great for an enthusiastic novice boatmen like myself. Could I please ask do you ever use any sprays like PTFE on your outboards to guard against rust and shorts in the system? Regards and good luck with future projects. Johno
Thanks mate. Yep, you can definitely spray metal parts to protect them from corrosion. Lanolin is another good option.
Hello any help engine oil leaking out of propeller bf25 Honda
No oil to change on my Yamaha two stroke. Well, I’m all set when I upgrade the two stroke to a four. Oil changes will be a breeze now!
You never know what the future holds. :)
Hi there stu, I was wandering if you had any idea why my mariner 90hp 2 stroke (2005) keeps coughing and when I pull up idle lever on controls it splutters then poof it coughs up a huge gulp of smoke? It seems to be running very lumpy as well. Any advice would be much appreciated.
Thank you and love your you tube films and of course Aussie humour!!
Did an oil and filter change today on my 2014 Tohatsu 50hp , previously had a HF199 oil filter ( changed in 2018 ) but bought a Z436 after seeing this video , these 2 filters look practically the same , the Ryco Z436 cheaper and easier to source and about 1/3rd the cost of a genuine Tohatsu filter....... Have used automotive engine oil before , seems to work fine but this time I put in Gulfwestern FC-W outboard oil 10w 40 , I could be wrong but think they have some extra anti wear additives eg zinc that are beneficial for 4 strokes with no catalytic converters .
Cheers mate well explained 👍
Should of mentioned to smear clean oil on the o-ring on new filter and to check the old o-ring isnt stuck to block and give the sealing surface a wipe then after the job is done fire her up and check for leaks .
6:25
@@DangarMarine My apologies mate.Don't know how i missed that.Mrs must have nagged at that moment.Loving the content mate and congrats on the subscriber numbers you have.Keep up the great work.
Hi Stu love your videos mate. I have a Yamaha F50 four stroke that needs a service can you do it for me?
Thanks mate. I don't do services for people but the Yamaha dealer down in Brooklyn is very good.
Very good video for guys like me who services there own engine, I've a honda outboard and my local supplier will sell you expensive plugs, filters, oils etc.. glad I watched this video to see that reasonable filters and motor oil will do fine.. all your videos are very informative thank you for uploading 🙂🇨🇮🇨🇮
Got a 2008 bf50 second hand idels perfect compression is 135psi all 3 cylinders carbs are cleared up.
can't push the boat pass 8 mph any idea sorry can't bring it to u for service I'm from Canada .boat is 17' aluminum
Hi Dan: what it could be wrong of a 9.9 Yamaha 4 stroke, leaking engine oil from exhaust? Blow oil pan gasket?
Thanks Stu, Very informative. I've just purchased a Honda BF50 outboard which has been sitting on a Macgregor 26. It's not been run for over 2 years and has been sitting in the heat (I live in Abu Dhabi in the UAE) so 45C during 6 month of the year. What would you recommend to do to flush out the old oil? It is common here for cars to have a steam flush to remove the residue and wondering if this might be an option for a 4 stroke OBM before I replace the oil.. Thanks
Help me please. My Honda bf75 1996 working just 2 cylinders. I check coil is ok . Spark is . Spark plugs change.
Lol I switched to TH-cam to check the captions. I thought you said at the end “for the sake of complainers” haha
You’re my favourite go to channel for learning about my boat!
Honda BF 30 (2005 model) has its oil filter much lower and it is very difficult to prevent oil from leaking to the lower cover of the engine with just using some rag under the filter. Last year I tilted and turned the engine some times after I had originally emptied the motor oil from the main plug. I think there was less oil in the filter after these steps but it was not empty from oil exactly even then. However, I did, when the warranty was valid, take the engine to the professional service. And there was never any mess of used oil in the lower cover. So there must be some tricks on how to do the job cleanly even when the oil filter's position makes it difficult to apply a rag compact enough...
Great video! Thanks
I like the advice about just using automotive oil . I found a valvoline semi synthetic that is recomended for my yammy 60 4/ and also my bf falcon . Same for the gearbox oil . Also .
It's Great to reduce the number of different oils in he shed .
Love the oil filter advice .
Hey you could sell car oil filters re branded as danger marine oil filters at a great profit . 😀
Add marine to any product and double the cost .
I would say that if the oil meets the SAE requirements for the engine, (SF, etc), then it will be good.
Once you get a marker and draw a boat on the filter you can charge what you want. ;)
Also if you add the name of the outboard manufacturer, same scenario except worse.
One for the Australians- look up what the numbers with oil actually mean. Australians rarely would be running an engine in sub zero conditions so 10- or 20- oils are fine for our conditions. My car engine manual states to use 0-30 but I run it on 10-40 in winter, 20-50 in summer. I may lose a little in fuel economy but in our heat that extra viscosity is valuable off road and working hard ( turbo diesel) to stop metal touching metal. I also seemed to have less issues with EGR valves compared to the guys I travelled with . As for my outboard- I now run Tohatsu 50 TLDI and so the oil is a total loss ystem .
Hello. I have a 1989 Mercury 15 hp motor that is running rough. Can I assume there is no head gasket in this motor and that the deteriorated exhaust gasket is the problem?
hello genius! congratulations on your channel, it's very interesting! I have to change the leg seals to a honda 40 four stroke outboard, do you have any video or recommendation? From already thank you very much! greetings from Argentina!
Hey nice video . Hey can you help me with some thing I am working in a 15hp envinrude I have change reeds service carb change crank seals you name it compression around 90 the engine starts and run good when in gear the engine lacks power as I take the cover of the engine picks up the cover is clean no air blockage any ideas?
Greetings from Scotland, thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge of outboards, I'm sure you save a lot of people time and money myself included.
Great Video !!! Always good to hear it from experience ...
Hey man! Really think your videos are great. Is there any way to know what year your honda bf40 was build if the ID/Serial number is missing?
Great video....you are a super instructor!
Thanks mate.
Hey danger Stu. Thanks for all the videos, really enjoy them. busy rebuilding the mid-section of a 90Hp Mercury Elpto. A little off topic but I am interested in you opinion here. Can you see any reason not to pressure wash a powerhead? As I've cleaned, rebuilt and resprayed the mid section and lower unit I'd like the powerhead to be clean to match and the quickest and easiest way I can determine is to spray it down with degreaser and pressure wash it (carefully). Can you see any reason not to do this? Thanks for the videos, look forward to the day you do them daily!
I often pressure wash power heads. Just be careful with the electrical connectors and the air intake.
as always, good stuff,,,,,,
Stu-pendous vid mate. Cheers!!
Is it really good for an outboarder to run it on the dry without cooling???
No, needs cooling water to stop the impeller melting.
@@DangarMarine Yes I know. But are you running the engine without cooling then here? Hence my question. ;)
Any tips for removing bolts from a yammy without harming the nice paint on the bolt?
What was the difference between the oil you put in the motor and the amount that they prescribed?
You are an awesome teacher. I used automotive oil filters and oil in my twin Yammie 115s and never had any problems, but I would not do that if motors had still been under factory warranty. The oil flush is a great idea! Thanks Mate 🇺🇸
Hi dangar Stu what engine flush would you recommend
Nice vid as usual Stu. Going to watch that timing belt session as one of those is in my future for my Yamaha.
Got another video idea for you....last week during winterizing I managed to snap the head of the steering pivot grease fitting clean off. Ouch! Going to have to try to fish the remains out of the hole without destroying the threads. Ever do that??
Yes, that does happen. You should be able to get an EZ out into the centre of it and wind it out. A bit of heat onto the surrounding metal will help too.
Wish I had realized that running an outboard (yamaha 50) that had been stored improperly would cause hydrolock due to oil in cylinders and apparently major damage. Oil was forced out PAST plugs. Cleaned carb very thoroughly and replaced sparkplugs after doing shock treatment with yamaha carbon burn off chemicals and engine is still running very rough at low rpm, smoking, and only pushing boat at 1/3 speed. I am guessing that my next steps will be doing a compression test, making sure exhaust pipe is clear, and checking valves, and most likely I will end up referring to your videos for a total rebuild and replacement of con rods. In case you read this, is there anything else I should know at this point? At least the advantage of having a motor that was questionable before my incredibly stupid act is that I can assume basically everything is broken and use it as a free (sort of) college course in mechanics.
Unfortunately there is a chance a con rod was bent if it hydrolocked. Not much you can do about that other than rebuild. I wouldn't expect residual oil to take more than a few minutes to burn off completely.
My Yamaha F150 has always ran Yamalube Conventional and currently has almost 1300 hours, would there be any concern switching to a fully synthetic oil? Ive heard it may cause oil leaks or oil burning by removing carbon deposits that have closed clearance gaps. Id very much appreciate your opinion on this!
You can definitely have problems with anything that will clean an older motor, that's true. Also, don't go full synthetic as it tends to absorb water when used in a marine environment.
Great info. Thank's Stu.
Thanks mate, you're most welcome. :)
مرحبا
ممكن توضحلي الطريقه الي تمنع دخول الماء الى السفينه من مكان مروحه الدفع مع الشكر الجزيل
Les petites plaque sur lobbys
Wow, you found something to fit and cheaper.. Mate you are owed some beers. Awesome vids. Thanks
For me the big bonus with these filters is that you can get them really easily in any auto parts store without waiting.
Ive had a Tohatsu 25 4stroke sit for a few years (it was winterized correctly). Should I flush it? What type do you use?
I wouldn't be too worried. We use a Wurth engine flush.
Hey Stu, what are your thoughts on 2 stroke oil for a 20 year old carburetored oil injected outboard. Is anything with "tcw3" good?
Hey George. Yes, I would be happy to use an TCW3 oil.
Hey Danger want to make a much needed video? Make one getting the impeller key out of a Yamaha
that is corroded in slot I know you've been there done that. Not one video on the Tube
Good suggestion. I usually apply a bit of heat and then chisel onto the top of them. Sometimes vise grips work too.
Thanks Stu for another great video. Perfect for a Saturday afternoon when it is too windy to get out on a boat.
Tell me about it. Was out all afternoon trying to film a video on towing a boat with a boat. I think the audio may end up being too noisy to use.
Not for me it ain't. Im heading out tonight.
"too windy to go out on a boat' - what a load of rubbish, you just need a different sort of boat. A Farr40 loves 20-30 knotts! :-)
@@ronpowell2373 Yeah, trouble is where I go boating it was a gale warning.
So? use smaller sails! :7) reality - always a wise decision to respect the ocean and weather. They don't play fair , never tempt them as they don't mind taking souls at any time. Fair weather bud.
Changing oil in a 60 Horse Yamaha marine engine
that land rover is a beauty
Thanks mate, I'm really happy with it. Love driving it. :)
Keep forgetting to ask Stu, whats with the RAAF sticker on the green machine? You ex-RAAF?
No, I just bought it because the boat is made by DeHavilland that used to make aircraft.
I need to service my little honda 15hp which runs in fresh water only , so normal automotive oil will do aslong as its the right type for the engine ofcoarse ? :) , need to do full service before i cause any damage haha
Yes, auto is fine but as someone mentioned below don't use full synthetic.
@@DangarMarine oh okay thanks mate
Hi Stu. Can you make a video sometime on your view about blocking off or replacing an Evinrude VRO pump in favour of using 50:1 premixed fuel. Mine 1988 70hp seems to use an excessive amount of oil and cant regulate the VRO. My wash tank water is very oily. Cheers
Hey Peter, yes, I would like to do that vid one day.
Can definitely say that this has been a good way to go for me when I replaced an old 50hp merc with a 90's Johnson 90HP - It has a constant oil alarm. Chickened out of doing it myself, but pointed mechanic at goneoutdoors.com/switch-evinrude-90-hp-vro-fuel-pump-s-regular-fuel-pump-12175176.html
Love that oil filter tool! Cheers stu
It's definitely the best one I've ever used. Works really well over a wide range of sizes.
be weary of the spring the way its hooked on it can sometimes get caught and pop off. mines been missing it for years still works. one day was in a hurry and didnt check to be sure it was still there it went out the door with the unit i worked on
very informative on the basics thanks my man im here to learn
Our boat is kept on the water in a slip. Taking the boat out of the water just to change the oil would be impractical and inefficient (in other words, I'm too lazy). I could drain the oil into a pan over the water, but I'm afraid that the ecology zealots and fanatics will object when I spill the oil and cause a huge, shiny oil slick that covers the entire harbor. It would be helpful if sometime you could discuss sucking the old oil out of the engine through the filler opening or out of the dipstick tube. If I could get maybe 90% of the old oil out, I'd be satisfied. Also, please cover the use of a large sledge hammer when changing the oil - I find that a sledge hammer is always useful, even mandatory, no matter what the job is.
Sucking sump oil out through the dipstick tube is very common for mechanics that work on slipways like you are referring to. A sledge hammer is an excellent tool for ensuring the dripstick is all the way back in once the job is done. ;)
@@DangarMarine Sledge hammer also handy for broken outboards than merely add weight to the stern of the boat.
Hi i have a 4hp 1999 johnson outboard motor and when i give it full throttle it doesn't open up properly but at slow speed it works perfectly fine. I cleaned the carb and the jets already and changed the fuel filter but still no difference. Can you please help me?
Could be a problem with the timing advance or the throttle plate not opening properly.
Hi thanks for your reply. The throttle plate seem to work fine i think the problem is more about fuel but i changed and cleaned everything in the fuel system and still no difference.
always good to see a new video pop up do you guys have non ethanol petrol available down under?
Thanks Richard. Yes, you can buy non ethanol fuel everywhere here.
Thank you so much for your help. I want you to tell me what is main problems, and the parts I should change when I have water flood Evenrude outboard motor?
Disconnect and clean water out from all the electrical connectors, clean the carburettor and you might need to replace the starter motor eventually if it was salt water.
@@DangarMarine thank you so much. For any more details I'll make sure to write to you. I wonder if you have a page, or account on Facebook, or if you use any social media, so I can easily sending you photos such as the motor and the parts in case. And how I can fix.
Great video,,,my 4 stroke is a mercury efi 60hp outboard, I have gas coming out of the overflow tube on the vapor canister could it be the float or needle? Can this happen if I prime the bulb to tight?
Sounds like a pressure sensor or needle and seat to me.
@@DangarMarine Thank you,,I'm not sure what a pressure sensor is, I will try and look it up online, again thank you for pointing me in a needed direction
Is the round regulator (aluminum) part inside vapor canister the pressure sensor? A little round screen on top of it, it ran great last time out before this gas over flow issue, the motor had been sitting 3years before I got it, thought I was ready to fish- hope you were treated well here in the U.S.
Anyone have a link to that oil filter removal tool used?
It is a SnapOn tool, but not sure of the part number.