This guy has no idea how much he helps people and how much these videos are appreciated. If you can’t do work your self boating is hardly affordable for the middle class. Your a saint honestly thank you for your expertise you have no idea how much it is appreciated. Keeping men’s wife’s from putting for sale signs on their boats. Hero!!
I am a new boater, my first time trying to gear up my new inflatable boat . I went and bought me a used Yamaha 9.9HP 4 stroke off of some folks that swore up and down that it is a great motor and they ran it just last summer and don't need it any more . I have never seen an outboard close enough to even know how to start it so of course i never tested it when i picked it up. So long story short i took a challenge up on my self an decided to take a look inside and learn my lesson. The engine looks spotless as it is brand new even though it is 1989 motor. I came to understand that the gear box was seized up , when i took the lower unit down chunks of salt and sand mixed in with shells fell off it , at that point i wish i saw your videos before i got my hands in it , I had real hard time getting the old parts out , i watched hundreds of videos and nothing . So like you said i did put some scratches on a main shaft as i was frustrated with lack of knowledge and tools. And just yesterday i watched couple of your videos and it was like thank you God for sending me this guy. Thank you , you are a great teacher and doing this from the heart. I appreciate, and looking forward on getting my baby in good shape with your help. So long brother , keep doing what you doing.
I normally replace my sea water pump oil seal every year due to leaks (corroded spring ring in seal). Since i followed your advise to replace the spring ring with rubber O-ring, I've never had any leak these 4 years !! THANK YOU Dangar Marine.
This is a Man's Man and can do anything using nothing if he needs to. I really like your style, and you are very modest and down to earth. You sir are the guy I would want on my team when in a rough spot. Keep doing the videos.
Right!! I have no idea of mechanics, but watching your videos I almost encourage myself to do anything simple.. Thank you very much for making our lives a little easier! Greetings from Valencia, Spain! 👍
I love your videos. I get on forums and guys act like it is no big deal to drop $500US on a new VST. They defend the manufacturer like they are family. You have 100's of people having the same crack form and they try to blame it on the people. You seem very real. Buy stuff when necessary but aren't afraid to make stuff work.
Thanks to Dangar my old boat and engine are self serviced for potting and fishing now for 25 years in Donegal Ireland. Good practical stuff - good luck and keep going!
Thanks for the tip and offending the "purests"!!! A lot of those guys don't understand that not all of us can afford $200 tools for a one time job and we know how to be careful. I will keep watching. Please keep the videos coming!
Sometimes when the carrier is stuck...it'll take HOURS to get it out...."IF" it can be removed! I've used this method on other applications....IT WORKS! Thanks for sharing
I can not thank you enough for this among several of the other videos you have made!!! The knowledge you share has been the difference between my lil girl having memories of a summer filled with days and days of fun on the lake vrs boredom at home! THANK YOU!!!!!
Can't tell you how many times you've helped me save tons of money.....6 months ago my most extreme mechanical feat was replacing spark plugs, and doing oil changes.....Thanks to your help, a specific service manual, and maybe a little bit of other videos (bit here, bit there) my F90 is in top shape. I have removed, disasembled, repaired, and replaced my entire lower unit assembly, which includes a full set of replacement upper and shaft oil seals, water pump replacement as well as completely servicing my fuel system (from tank, to low pressure pump, VST, intake, and injector servicing and cleaning. You've easily saved me over $1500 on labor costs. THANK YOU
Fantastic video for the real world DIY guy! I’ve learned more in 1 week watching your videos than in 2 months of reading manuals. Keep them coming, outstanding information!!!
Dangar,what makes a good mechanic is knowing what tool to use where.What makes a great mechanic is knowing how to rectify a problem by any means he can. Again a great video mate. Fabian.
Thank you so much for this, I used your technique to replace leaking driveshaft seals in a 2011 250hp Evinrude ETEC, once I had the holes drilled I pulled the seals with the barbs on big straightened fishing hooks. When I inserted the new seals I placed an old seal on top of the new one to protect it, then cut a length of three quarter inch pvc pipe to fit over the driveshaft and hammered the top of the pipe to get the seals down. The gearcase bearing housing on my ETEC is PRESSED, so practically impossible to remove and replace for work without the specific equipment such as a 10 tonne floor press... I really dig your style dude!
As a complete novice at fixing ANYTHING, I used this hack and was able to remove the oil ring. It took a couple of days and a bit of courage, but it came out successfully. Thank you for the tip!
Really like your videos. I've worked on everything mechanical all my life, car, boat retired aircraft mechanic. Your knowledge is evident in the way you explain your tasks. I agree 100% with your discription, the book only shows one way, the art of a real mechanic is how to work on items when the "book way" will not or does not work. Thank you for your ability to explain how to accomplish tasks. Have a blessed day my friend.
Brilliant, honest......practical. These are the types of people that save lives in war, win races at baja and keep future generations of mechanics interested in helping strangers get their machines back into service. Brilliant
I really appreciate you are taking the time to make visible the areas you are referencing. It is very helpful to be able to identify the exact point you are describing, while others DIY videos can assume that people will know exactly what they should be seeing. I came in to 2 Evinrude 15hp motors (one running and one for parts) at the end of last summer and I'm just now getting a chance to look in to them. I look forward to doing my best to make this a 1 or 2 pull effort when I'm on the water wanting to instead of struggling to get it started. Keep these videos coming!!! Thank You
I just bought a dinghy with a 25hp Yamaha 2004. I knew I needed to change the seals as there was some water in the lower unit. What I love about TH-cam, it allows folks like you to present options to having factory techs. I'm very impressed with the way the you Teach that this isn't the ideal way to do it but an option and not to do it if you fear nicking the prop shaft. Great Job as a presenter and Teacher. Thanks and i'll be looking for more of your videos.Capt Steve Russell
Good work, so refreshing to see a real bloke doing real repairs, for the real world where it is not always perfect. I am so happy to be able to go to your videos, they are a great help for anyone looking to do a repair/mtce. The marine environment is so hard on all parts that when things break it is not on flat water sunny day near the shore line.
Thanks Paul, glad the vids are helping you. You aren't wrong about the marine environment making things much harder than the textbook would make you believe!
Thank you mate.. your a true aussie that is helping Aussie battlers stay on the water...with reliable and not leaking gear oil in our waterways...much appreciated mate..thanks Burnsy
I am changing the impeller in my 1984 35hp Evinrude. When I removed the old water pump housing I touched the underneath seal and the spring broke. I'm in a time crunch and did not want to replace the seals now. So I was looking for a suitable replacement for the spring. What a great idea to use a nitrile O-ring in place of the metal spring. Thanks for the video.
Very Very Impressive, and immensely helpful. Based on your tutelage I have rebuilt an '85 Yamaha 6HP a 1964 Evinrude 9.5HP, and now working on a waterlogged 14' 1985 Vontage using most of the Dangar vids: from trailer bearing replacement, to carburetor rebuilding, and oil seal replacement the hack way, and everything in between. A newbie to anything to do with motors or boats, I am on my way to resurrecting a mini version of the blessed GreenMachine! Your meticulous camera angles, tripod placements and all the special treats like how you cutaway the gear case for "How an outboard gearbox works". Thanks so much for your gracious guidance...carry on warrior Stu ! ~ doug, vancouver canada
Thanks Doug, so glad to hear the videos have been helpful. It is hearing that that makes it all feel worthwhile. Good luck with your own personal Green Machine project! :)
Thank You Sir !!! Your video just saved me close to $600, because thats what local Yamaha dealer wanted to change oil seals on my Yamaha 225 OX66. Keep them coming, fantastic work you are doing.
I am SO GLAD I found this! I've looked all over trying to find a way to do this myself and everyone has these specialized tools! I'm SO GLAD I found this before I nicked the prop shaft!!!! THANK YOU SO MUCH from North Carolina USA
Awesome - I'll have to check them out! Maybe I'll be one of your favorite TH-cam channels someday haha Thanks again! Have it all reassembled and your method worked GREAT! Now I think I'm going to have to change out the shifter cable which SUCKS! but at least I'm making headway! haha
I've been pulling seaks for years this way. Between not having pullers, seized in place. Get er done. All the way from Australia to see other guys working with same attitude, thanks.
Finally got around to replacing prop shaft seals the hack way. Worked great no damage went back in perfect. Thanks for all the work U so on Ur videos. Much Respect!!!!!
Thanks for this video. I'm in that similar situation with my yamaha 50 oil seals. No trailer board or number plate to take it to a mechanic, mechanics cant come to me as they say "only in house"...this is the way im doing it...got the outer seal out this afternoon. With the assistance of your videos ive been able to do a lot more than i would have been able to before, and help when a mechanic hasnt done the job right or conned me....to get engine back working fully again....been let down twice in the last year by 2 mechanics and will i hell tow 100 miles each way to take it to someone. Very much appreciated videos and information...the best videos for marine services on TH-cam
Good basic informative vid,and easy to follow. No Premier movie boring flashy introduction,and advertising. The advise is excellent. Helped me enormously!!
Again thank you for this tip. I have run across many of the bearing carriers that were seized up and couldn't be removed, and many times I just bought a used lower unit on Ebay that cost several hundred dollars where I could have used this technique and saved all that money...
I’m always impressed with your videos. You always explain things in layman terms and they are practical uses for everyone, and very detailed. Keep up the good work my friend.
What I did in the past ... Go to your local hardware store and find a long self tapping screw (sheet metal) find a small tube that screw will fit inside but also large enough to fit between shaft and housing.. Place tube, insert a long screw into the tube and rest should be self explanatory.. Good luck my fellow weekend warriors...
This is an awesome piece of advice. Thank You! My boat is a 1990 Chapparel with twin Volvo Penta 350's (chevy small blocks) and DP-a out-drives. I'm sure the original owners never even picked up a screwdriver themselves. Still stout, this vessel requires a decent amount of TLC to keep her sea worthy. When I saw oil dripping from the prop shaft after we pulled her from the water in November I thought that would be the last season for the old girl. Your video gave me confidence that a $2,000 job could be done for the price of the parts $30. You are worth your salt mate. Thanks for this video please don't stop producing them. If you ever get to the state of Connecticut in the US look me up dinner and drinks on me!
Thank You for the video. The insertion of the new seals were pretty quick, you might have mentioned that the inner seal lip faces the bearing and the outer seal lip faces out towards the prop. The inner keeps gear oil in while the outer keeps water out. Ken
Thanks so much for this video (and the others!) I have no mechanical experience but I am handy and I can definitely do this. I was worried about spending more big bucks on an older motor and I now have the confidence to do this and some of the other maintenance from your other videos. You're an excellent teacher. Keep them coming.
I thank you very much for the videos you make, you show us that there is more than one way to do things, and the potential risks involved, makes the toll on our wallets a lot less. Would like to shout you a box someday.
we've come across the seal housing area very corroded but otherwise in good shape and used a freeze in (interference fit) sleeve after a ream of the area and abit of sealer, good as new. your video is spot on for those corroded in carriers also.
Love your vids mate ! Awesome showing people ways to do things in the backyard without fancy tools or equipment in a way that shows corroded real life scenarios you always explain things very well and get good close ups of what's going on ! Legend mate ! I'm sure your vids have helped more people than you know !
Great videos! I like your style. This is also a great technique for a guy who is handy, only spent a few hundred dollars on an old motor 12 years ago, and does not want to spend $1,000 dollars replacing the seals now. Thanks you!
I just did the seals, and I couldn’t be certain the shaft was smooth, so I rolled up some sand paper and with the shaft spinning the the nut and a socket on my drill I sanded the shaft from 80 grit up to 600 grit sandpaper, it was a mirror finish when I was done! Thanks for the info!
Although it was not probably ideal, but you were correct in showing a different way to get to the same place. I for one really appreciate your efforts!
You sir, are brilliant. The way you explain that while not being the optimal way to do it, life isn't always optimal and you need these kind of skills and I enjoyed the video. Keep the great work up, and maybe we'll see each on the water some day.
Thanks for your videos. I'm about to step into the world of outboards (two mercury 150 1998 two strokes...) and these have been a great help. extremely well explained and down to earth. Again thanks for taking to the time to share your knowledge. good on ya !
Used this technic today on a 86 40 hp Johnson worked great I wrapped electrical tape around shaft incase of a slip all is good thanks the punch making the hole is critical.
Some of your videos have saved me a lot of time and money. Others are really interesting and I always learn some new trick or two. Thanks for this great channel!
There is never enough time to do it right but always enough time to do it again! Much luck to the fools that take advice from someone with zero credentials…
love your videos. Your teaching style is perfect. Wish I could spend a couple months in your shop watching you work and learning. Thank you for your videos
Just to let you know we live in Cape York and are 250k to the nearest mechanic and yea I can Brail my way threw it but tittle videos like this to make sure your on the right track are great thanks heaps and keep up the great work
Thanks Dangar, I take my hat off to ya mate! I have an old 1972 Evinrude 100hp Starflite 2 Stroke outboard and have wanted to do the prop shaft seals as I notice the gear oil was ever so slightly milky when I drained it. I changed all the top end seals no sweat, but the prop shaft bearing housing has completely bonded to the gearbox casing! I've tried penetrating sprays, heat, Slide hammering and reverse pressing it out, but she's not going anywhere! Therefore your method may be my only saving grace!!! I have just been paranoid about starting, just in case:- I experience a similar issue with the seal not coming out, - I push the old inner seal in too far (wasn't sure if there was a lip in the housing to prevent this)- I damaged the prop shaft or bearing housing!What I may do is pressure test the gear case first and see if it holds pressure after doing to top seals, if not I may have to take the plunge and give it a go...Your time and effort is really appreciated mate, keep up the awesome work!😉
Just did the same job... Mariner 82 model. got some scratches in the inner metal ring. Gonna put inn new unoriginal oilseals there now since they don`t make it anymore. The local Yamaha dealer don`t even sell any parts to new motors here. No money to be made...
I did your technique, on a 100hp Yamaha “2000”, a couple tips, a cheap set of dental picks let me pull the o rings and a bunch of the rubber out, it also let me find the holes that were already in the metal core, I actually just used a tiny screw driver to break the metal core on either side of the hole, and the ring came right out. Then while spinning the shaft with a socket on a drill I polished the shaft with sandpaper and I used the plastic pipe I had to set the new seals in, wrapped with sandpaper and smoothed out the inside of the casing!
Awesome video. I love to see alternative ideas that provide a practical solution. I am a professional engineer with 34 years experience and I know there are always several solutions to any problem and what a great job you've done explaining the risks and the realities of what could "go wrong" Keep up the good work!
Thanks Jerry, there are certainly many ways to go with most job, the important thing is to know all the pros and cons, but sometimes (particularly with corroded outboards) you don't get a choice!
I totally agree. Mechanical stuffs not always works as we expect so you have to be able to think further and use some rough technics. Thanks for sharing
Interesting to hear about using engineering quality oil seals .. I have done exactly the same and got the same advice from my supplier. There are some issues in obtaining exactly the right size, but I've found there are many available, that are more than suitable.
Hey Geoff, we are lucky that our local engineering shop stocks quite a range of seals so we've always been able to get an exact match and they are always heaps cheaper which is nice. :)
I have been putting off replacing seals, thank you for giving me the confidence to replace with new. i will make sure to get a good look at the size of new seal to have a better less expensive one for the next time. we would like to share a little sunshine, visit Florida
Hey Stephen, good luck with the seal replacement. Just watch out of the prop shaft and you'll be fine. I'd love to visit Florida again. Had a great time there many years ago. :)
Thank you for making this video, I understand why you may have had a little.... reservations about making it but man, it was very helpful as my wife and I are in some very isolated islands and I am so far from a workshop! Cheers man
Great vid my favorite so far, I've destroyed 3 carriers trying to remove them. This would have been a great solution.Marine oil seals are a rip off, I just ordered a lower unit seal and base plate kit and it was $85.
+alnbaba That's what gets me about all the insistence (particularly on social media) that things be done the "right way" Sometimes you just don't have that options and you need other techniques to fall back to. You are also right about the cost of marine parts. That's why I was so pleased to get the o-ring top from the engineering shop down the road.
I agree very much with your videos .. there is the "text book way" however in this case having to pull the gear case bearing carrier is actually more of a pain and to some degree if it's not broken why fix it I'm actually in the process of changing the o rings on the shaft near the water pump at this point my biggest nightmare has been the impeller key it's been stuck and taken me 3 days using heat gun and a lot of hammer I really enjoy your videos I think for those that will do it yourself this is perfect !
Dangar Marine yes they definitely have, very easy to follow and explained in a way that gave me confidence to tackle a few jobs I otherwise would not have, this from lreland
HI there from NZ. This a seriously valuable video. Thank you taking the time to make it. I have a engine rebuild coming up and this video is bound to come in handy!
Great video as always. Nitrile o ring in place of garter spring is a great idea. Just be careful of the it dislodging from the lips if not fitted properly. One thing you did not mentioned is the oil seal material. I will put a viton rubber on the inner side n a nitrile on the outer. Double lips are great n I use them all the time. Keep up the good work.
+Richard Yap Hey Richard. I'm wishing I had done a closeup of putting the o-ring in to show fitting it securely. That's a good point about the differing oil seal materials. Next time!
Thanks for the tip on the seal Springs. Will be ordering some first them Monday morning. plus double lip seals are always the best way to go. you should get any bad comments on that. You have to do the same thing on high performance cars when idiots decide to give the car too much horsepower cam seals get too hot and that was on an Audi R8. that's what being a mechanic is all about experience. have a beer on me for that idea 💡.
+Bowes Project Thanks mate, glad you liked it. The guy I got the seals from also specifically mentioned the heat resistance of the o-rings so it is interesting you should mention that - not that underwater gearboxes get that hot I guess! P.S. I'll have that beer tonight. ;)
Great video, this can be done on outdrives as well. Thanks for taking the time to make this. Good to know that there are other "hacks" out there besides myself..... Beer looks good....
Hey Roy, yes, there are many motors this can be done with. In fact it is the only realistic way to get the front and rear crank seals out of many motors when they need replacing.
Great videos - these have been so useful to me. However - worth noting - this oil seal hack can't be done on a tohatsu/mercury/mariner 4/5/6hp model - the bearing carrier is cast in such a way that you can't access the propshaft seal without removing the carrier first. In fact the carrier, seal and bearing are available as one, pre-assembled line item and i'd recommend buying that, rather than wasting hours trying to get the carrier off in one piece. Even if you do get it off without damaging it, you'll find that the bearing is impossible to extract to gain access to the seal. Cheers
Keep up with the 'practical'/'real world' demos. Things are too often shown on immaculate parts and as you say, the ideal method doesn’t always work in the real world, once some corrosion has taken place.
I watched several videos on this subject and combined a bit of all of them but I do like the way this guy goes into detail and always really great camera work, as he said in an ideal world we would have all the toys for every single job but I will probably only do this once so another good reason to learn "valuable" alternative methods, in the end I used two 50mm x 4mm self tapping screws, the brand name is Goldscrew from Screwfix but might not have Screwfix in Aus? Any 50mm x 4mm should do the job, there is no drilling required so no issue of swarf entering the prop shaft bearings and use a long driver bit so as to clear the prop shaft and get at least parallel to it when screwing in the screws, clearly patients, care and attention is required during this process just take your time...I found this method to be completely stress free, quick and easy, no nicks to anything, the only thing I will say is once the screw starts to bite into the metal of the oil seal then stop, no need to go in too far just couple of turns to grip will do it, a screw each side and then use two Wonder Bars nail bars to apply even pressure to either side of the seal and out she pops, rinse and repeat for the second seal, my first seal on my Yamaha 70b 2002 was not driven all of the way in it was positioned flush with the casing, this is better because it leaves a gap between the seals and its easier to feel when the screw punctures it, my last comment on the Automotive double seals is maybe its possible to turn the outside seal inwards so the spring is on the gearbox side and then it will unlikely see any salt water, I see no reason that wouldn't work just so long as the propeller shaft wasn't rusty or nicked where it makes contact, could even additionally coat the spring with marine grease as extra protection...
Great camera work. So many DIY vids are poorly lit, out of focus, too far to show critical detail, shaky, etc. Don't think I've seen a bad one yet on your channel. 👍
Thanks mate! You've saved me hours of frustration replacing the oil seals in my 25 year-old Yama 15 outboard. I'm a cruising sailor with no workshop and no fancy tools. I do have time and patience, so this approach is perfect. Capt. Blackheart Charlie s/v Aurora Key West, Conch Republic
This guy has no idea how much he helps people and how much these videos are appreciated. If you can’t do work your self boating is hardly affordable for the middle class. Your a saint honestly thank you for your expertise you have no idea how much it is appreciated. Keeping men’s wife’s from putting for sale signs on their boats. Hero!!
You’re welcome mate, glad the bids are helping.
MercFan 4Life I was thinking the exact same thing.
Agreed 💯 he is a hero and greatly appreciated.
@@DangarMarine should be danger marine lol! I love the video where you give your patient the tonsillectomy through the anus! It’s a gas!
I am a new boater, my first time trying to gear up my new inflatable boat . I went and bought me a used Yamaha 9.9HP 4 stroke off of some folks that swore up and down that it is a great motor and they ran it just last summer and don't need it any more . I have never seen an outboard close enough to even know how to start it so of course i never tested it when i picked it up. So long story short i took a challenge up on my self an decided to take a look inside and learn my lesson. The engine looks spotless as it is brand new even though it is 1989 motor. I came to understand that the gear box was seized up , when i took the lower unit down chunks of salt and sand mixed in with shells fell off it , at that point i wish i saw your videos before i got my hands in it , I had real hard time getting the old parts out , i watched hundreds of videos and nothing . So like you said i did put some scratches on a main shaft as i was frustrated with lack of knowledge and tools. And just yesterday i watched couple of your videos and it was like thank you God for sending me this guy. Thank you , you are a great teacher and doing this from the heart. I appreciate, and looking forward on getting my baby in good shape with your help. So long brother , keep doing what you doing.
I normally replace my sea water pump oil seal every year due to leaks (corroded spring ring in seal). Since i followed your advise to replace the spring ring with rubber O-ring, I've never had any leak these 4 years !! THANK YOU Dangar Marine.
This is a Man's Man and can do anything using nothing if he needs to. I really like your style, and you are very modest and down to earth. You sir are the guy I would want on my team when in a rough spot. Keep doing the videos.
Right!! I have no idea of mechanics, but watching your videos I almost encourage myself to do anything simple..
Thank you very much for making our lives a little easier! Greetings from Valencia, Spain! 👍
I love your videos. I get on forums and guys act like it is no big deal to drop $500US on a new VST. They defend the manufacturer like they are family. You have 100's of people having the same crack form and they try to blame it on the people. You seem very real. Buy stuff when necessary but aren't afraid to make stuff work.
Thanks to Dangar my old boat and engine are self serviced for potting and fishing now for 25 years in Donegal Ireland. Good practical stuff - good luck and keep going!
Thanks for the tip and offending the "purests"!!! A lot of those guys don't understand that not all of us can afford $200 tools for a one time job and we know how to be careful. I will keep watching. Please keep the videos coming!
Thanks Thomas, glad you like the vids. :)
Sometimes when the carrier is stuck...it'll take HOURS to get it out...."IF" it can be removed!
I've used this method on other applications....IT WORKS!
Thanks for sharing
I can not thank you enough for this among several of the other videos you have made!!! The knowledge you share has been the difference between my lil girl having memories of a summer filled with days and days of fun on the lake vrs boredom at home! THANK YOU!!!!!
You are very welcome! :)
Can't tell you how many times you've helped me save tons of money.....6 months ago my most extreme mechanical feat was replacing spark plugs, and doing oil changes.....Thanks to your help, a specific service manual, and maybe a little bit of other videos (bit here, bit there) my F90 is in top shape. I have removed, disasembled, repaired, and replaced my entire lower unit assembly, which includes a full set of replacement upper and shaft oil seals, water pump replacement as well as completely servicing my fuel system (from tank, to low pressure pump, VST, intake, and injector servicing and cleaning. You've easily saved me over $1500 on labor costs. THANK YOU
Fantastic video for the real world DIY guy! I’ve learned more in 1 week watching your videos than in 2 months of reading manuals. Keep them coming, outstanding information!!!
Dangar,what makes a good mechanic is knowing what tool to use where.What makes a great mechanic is knowing how to rectify a problem by any means he can.
Again a great video mate.
Fabian.
+Fabian Sosa Thanks Fabian, glad you enjoyed the vid and I appreciate your attitude towards mechanical work! :)
Thank you so much for this, I used your technique to replace leaking driveshaft seals in a 2011 250hp Evinrude ETEC, once I had the holes drilled I pulled the seals with the barbs on big straightened fishing hooks. When I inserted the new seals I placed an old seal on top of the new one to protect it, then cut a length of three quarter inch pvc pipe to fit over the driveshaft and hammered the top of the pipe to get the seals down. The gearcase bearing housing on my ETEC is PRESSED, so practically impossible to remove and replace for work without the specific equipment such as a 10 tonne floor press... I really dig your style dude!
As a complete novice at fixing ANYTHING, I used this hack and was able to remove the oil ring. It took a couple of days and a bit of courage, but it came out successfully. Thank you for the tip!
Really like your videos. I've worked on everything mechanical all my life, car, boat retired aircraft mechanic.
Your knowledge is evident in the way you explain your tasks.
I agree 100% with your discription, the book only shows one way, the art of a real mechanic is how to work on items when the "book way" will not or does not work.
Thank you for your ability to explain how to accomplish tasks. Have a blessed day my friend.
Brilliant, honest......practical. These are the types of people that save lives in war, win races at baja and keep future generations of mechanics interested in helping strangers get their machines back into service. Brilliant
I really appreciate you are taking the time to make visible the areas you are referencing. It is very helpful to be able to identify the exact point you are describing, while others DIY videos can assume that people will know exactly what they should be seeing. I came in to 2 Evinrude 15hp motors (one running and one for parts) at the end of last summer and I'm just now getting a chance to look in to them. I look forward to doing my best to make this a 1 or 2 pull effort when I'm on the water wanting to instead of struggling to get it started. Keep these videos coming!!! Thank You
I just bought a dinghy with a 25hp Yamaha 2004. I knew I needed to change the seals as there was some water in the lower unit. What I love about TH-cam, it allows folks like you to present options to having factory techs. I'm very impressed with the way the you Teach that this isn't the ideal way to do it but an option and not to do it if you fear nicking the prop shaft. Great Job as a presenter and Teacher. Thanks and i'll be looking for more of your videos.Capt Steve Russell
Thanks Steve, glad you've been enjoying the videos and they've been helping you with your repairs. :)
I am a new outboard boat owner and I thank you for all your help. I was able to fix my lower unit myself. You are a great teacher...
You fixed your lower unit? I’d love to see your work? And how you were able to fix it with advice from bob the boatbuilder’s videos?
@@grego805here’s how your comment reads, “I have nothing useful to say, but I’m an asshole and wanted you to know”.
Good work, so refreshing to see a real bloke doing real repairs, for the real world where it is not always perfect. I am so happy to be able to go to your videos, they are a great help for anyone looking to do a repair/mtce. The marine environment is so hard on all parts that when things break it is not on flat water sunny day near the shore line.
Thanks Paul, glad the vids are helping you. You aren't wrong about the marine environment making things much harder than the textbook would make you believe!
Thank you mate.. your a true aussie that is helping Aussie battlers stay on the water...with reliable and not leaking gear oil in our waterways...much appreciated mate..thanks Burnsy
I am changing the impeller in my 1984 35hp Evinrude. When I removed the old water pump housing I touched the underneath seal and the spring broke. I'm in a time crunch and did not want to replace the seals now. So I was looking for a suitable replacement for the spring. What a great idea to use a nitrile O-ring in place of the metal spring. Thanks for the video.
You're welcome, I'm glad the tip helped you. :)
Very Very Impressive, and immensely helpful. Based on your tutelage I have rebuilt an '85 Yamaha 6HP a 1964 Evinrude 9.5HP, and now working on a waterlogged 14' 1985 Vontage using most of the Dangar vids: from trailer bearing replacement, to carburetor rebuilding, and oil seal replacement the hack way, and everything in between. A newbie to anything to do with motors or boats, I am on my way to resurrecting a mini version of the blessed GreenMachine! Your meticulous camera angles, tripod placements and all the special treats like how you cutaway the gear case for "How an outboard gearbox works". Thanks so much for your gracious guidance...carry on warrior Stu ! ~ doug, vancouver canada
Thanks Doug, so glad to hear the videos have been helpful. It is hearing that that makes it all feel worthwhile. Good luck with your own personal Green Machine project! :)
Thank You Sir !!! Your video just saved me close to $600, because thats what local Yamaha dealer wanted to change oil seals on my Yamaha 225 OX66. Keep them coming, fantastic work you are doing.
You're welcome mate, glad the vid helped you save some money. :)
I am SO GLAD I found this! I've looked all over trying to find a way to do this myself and everyone has these specialized tools! I'm SO GLAD I found this before I nicked the prop shaft!!!! THANK YOU SO MUCH from North Carolina USA
Hey mate, glad the video helped you, good luck with the job! North Carolina is home to one of my favourite TH-cam channels, Carsandcameras. :)
Awesome - I'll have to check them out! Maybe I'll be one of your favorite TH-cam channels someday haha Thanks again! Have it all reassembled and your method worked GREAT! Now I think I'm going to have to change out the shifter cable which SUCKS! but at least I'm making headway! haha
Glad to hear you are getting there, even with your shifter cable change. I'll check out your channel today! :)
I've been pulling seaks for years this way. Between not having pullers, seized in place. Get er done. All the way from Australia to see other guys working with same attitude, thanks.
Finally got around to replacing prop shaft seals the hack way. Worked great no damage went back in perfect. Thanks for all the work U so on Ur videos. Much Respect!!!!!
Hey Larry, glad it went well for you. If you are careful and take your time it is a great way to go.
Just wondering why you did not remove the housing first so the shaft was out of the way.
Thanks for this video. I'm in that similar situation with my yamaha 50 oil seals. No trailer board or number plate to take it to a mechanic, mechanics cant come to me as they say "only in house"...this is the way im doing it...got the outer seal out this afternoon. With the assistance of your videos ive been able to do a lot more than i would have been able to before, and help when a mechanic hasnt done the job right or conned me....to get engine back working fully again....been let down twice in the last year by 2 mechanics and will i hell tow 100 miles each way to take it to someone.
Very much appreciated videos and information...the best videos for marine services on TH-cam
Sadly it's a common story Calum, glad to hear you've decided to tackle it yourself.
Good basic informative vid,and easy to follow. No Premier movie boring flashy introduction,and advertising. The advise is excellent. Helped me enormously!!
Glad it helped. :)
Again thank you for this tip. I have run across many of the bearing carriers that were seized up and couldn't be removed, and many times I just bought a used lower unit on Ebay that cost several hundred dollars where I could have used this technique and saved all that money...
There are so many bearing carrier that just won't come out. This one has saved me many times!
I don't even own a boat, and I'm loving these videos. You're a great educator. Love your style and technique. Great stuff.
Thanks Frank, glad you are enjoying the vids. :)
A lot of great tips and very solid experience based information
I’m always impressed with your videos. You always explain things in layman terms and they are practical uses for everyone, and very detailed. Keep up the good work my friend.
What I did in the past ... Go to your local hardware store and find a long self tapping screw (sheet metal) find a small tube that screw will fit inside but also large enough to fit between shaft and housing.. Place tube, insert a long screw into the tube and rest should be self explanatory.. Good luck my fellow weekend warriors...
This is an awesome piece of advice. Thank You! My boat is a 1990 Chapparel with twin Volvo Penta 350's (chevy small blocks) and DP-a out-drives. I'm sure the original owners never even picked up a screwdriver themselves. Still stout, this vessel requires a decent amount of TLC to keep her sea worthy. When I saw oil dripping from the prop shaft after we pulled her from the water in November I thought that would be the last season for the old girl. Your video gave me confidence that a $2,000 job could be done for the price of the parts $30. You are worth your salt mate. Thanks for this video please don't stop producing them. If you ever get to the state of Connecticut in the US look me up dinner and drinks on me!
Thanks mate, glad the video helped you out. Always great to hear of a boat back on the water after a bit of DIY. Thanks for the offer of dinner! :)
Thank You for the video. The insertion of the new seals were pretty quick, you might have mentioned that the inner seal lip faces the bearing and the outer seal lip faces out towards the prop. The inner keeps gear oil in while the outer keeps water out. Ken
Thanks so much for this video (and the others!) I have no mechanical experience but I am handy and I can definitely do this. I was worried about spending more big bucks on an older motor and I now have the confidence to do this and some of the other maintenance from your other videos. You're an excellent teacher. Keep them coming.
You are welcome! Glad it was helpful.
best u2ber teacher ever!!! Thank your so much, for all your expertise and help.
Man oh man, how helpfull was this, couldnt get the castle nut removed on a 150hp 2 stroke yamaha and your way worked a charm. Salute
Great to hear!
I thank you very much for the videos you make, you show us that there is more than one way to do things, and the potential risks involved, makes the toll on our wallets a lot less. Would like to shout you a box someday.
we've come across the seal housing area very corroded but otherwise in good shape and used a freeze in (interference fit) sleeve after a ream of the area and abit of sealer, good as new. your video is spot on for those corroded in carriers also.
Resleeving corroded areas are a great way to repair these problems. Good as new as you say. :)
Thank you for your videos. You are definitely a working man’s friend. If I’m ever in Australia, would like to look you up and shake your hand.
Love your vids mate ! Awesome showing people ways to do things in the backyard without fancy tools or equipment in a way that shows corroded real life scenarios you always explain things very well and get good close ups of what's going on ! Legend mate ! I'm sure your vids have helped more people than you know !
Thanks mate, the back shed is certainly different to the distributor workshop.
Great explanation.
I used it on my 99’ Honda 50. It saved me from having to buy a new motor. Thanks very much
Glad it helped
Great videos! I like your style. This is also a great technique for a guy who is handy, only spent a few hundred dollars on an old motor 12 years ago, and does not want to spend $1,000 dollars replacing the seals now. Thanks you!
I just did the seals, and I couldn’t be certain the shaft was smooth, so I rolled up some sand paper and with the shaft spinning the the nut and a socket on my drill I sanded the shaft from 80 grit up to 600 grit sandpaper, it was a mirror finish when I was done! Thanks for the info!
Stu ... keeping it real. Great explanation, video, audio. If they had an award show on youtube, you'd win many awards.
The right way to do this job is the way that works.
Brilliant use of an "O" ring to replace the spring. Thanks for the vid!
Thanks mate, couldn't agree more. It's interesting to note that this is the only way to get many oil seals out (such as rear main seals on car motors)
Although it was not probably ideal, but you were correct in showing a different way to get to the same place. I for one really appreciate your efforts!
You sir, are brilliant.
The way you explain that while not being the optimal way to do it, life isn't always optimal and you need these kind of skills and I enjoyed the video.
Keep the great work up, and maybe we'll see each on the water some day.
Hell with going to boating school to learn to work on motors this guy is a great instructor
Thanks for your videos. I'm about to step into the world of outboards (two mercury 150 1998 two strokes...) and these have been a great help. extremely well explained and down to earth. Again thanks for taking to the time to share your knowledge. good on ya !
Thanks mate, glad to hear the videos have been helping you. Good luck with the new outboards!
I HAVE OWNED 2 MERCURY OB AND THEY WERE BOTH SHIT. WENT AND BOUGHT AN EVINRUDE AND NEVER HAD ANY PROBLEMS
Used this technic today on a 86 40 hp Johnson worked great I wrapped electrical tape around shaft incase of a slip all is good thanks the punch making the hole is critical.
Dangar I for one am most appreciative to know a few tricks where necessary, in a pinch. Thank you
Some of your videos have saved me a lot of time and money. Others are really interesting and I always learn some new trick or two. Thanks for this great channel!
You're welcome Kevin, glad you've been enjoying the vids! :)
14:46 I actually quite literally felt like I was hangin with you outside the shop sharing a beer talking motors. Way cool! Thanks for the vid
That's cool. I clicked on the time link to see that bit of the video and was reminded how clean the wall used to be! ;)
Great video for the prop shaft seals. Really helps when you have no access for the tools needed to remove the bearing carrier.
There is never enough time to do it right but always enough time to do it again! Much luck to the fools that take advice from someone with zero credentials…
love your videos. Your teaching style is perfect. Wish I could spend a couple months in your shop watching you work and learning. Thank you for your videos
Just to let you know we live in Cape York and are 250k to the nearest mechanic and yea I can Brail my way threw it but tittle videos like this to make sure your on the right track are great thanks heaps and keep up the great work
Thanks Dangar, I take my hat off to ya mate! I have an old 1972 Evinrude 100hp Starflite 2 Stroke outboard and have wanted to do the prop shaft seals as I notice the gear oil was ever so slightly milky when I drained it. I changed all the top end seals no sweat, but the prop shaft bearing housing has completely bonded to the gearbox casing! I've tried penetrating sprays, heat, Slide hammering and reverse pressing it out, but she's not going anywhere! Therefore your method may be my only saving grace!!! I have just been paranoid about starting, just in case:- I experience a similar issue with the seal not coming out, - I push the old inner seal in too far (wasn't sure if there was a lip in the housing to prevent this)- I damaged the prop shaft or bearing housing!What I may do is pressure test the gear case first and see if it holds pressure after doing to top seals, if not I may have to take the plunge and give it a go...Your time and effort is really appreciated mate, keep up the awesome work!😉
Although this is a little dated, it has been an INVALUABLE bit of information!
I usually drill two small holes into the metal part and them put in metal screws to pry the seal out a bit at a time and found it works fine.
Just did the same job... Mariner 82 model. got some scratches in the inner metal ring. Gonna put inn new unoriginal oilseals there now since they don`t make it anymore. The local Yamaha dealer don`t even sell any parts to new motors here. No money to be made...
I did your technique, on a 100hp Yamaha “2000”, a couple tips, a cheap set of dental picks let me pull the o rings and a bunch of the rubber out, it also let me find the holes that were already in the metal core, I actually just used a tiny screw driver to break the metal core on either side of the hole, and the ring came right out. Then while spinning the shaft with a socket on a drill I polished the shaft with sandpaper and I used the plastic pipe I had to set the new seals in, wrapped with sandpaper and smoothed out the inside of the casing!
This really isnt a hack its a mechanics trick. Theres millions of these cheats otherwise mechanics wouldnt make their labor times. Great video
Yes, you never remove a crankshaft to change a rear main seal, but the outboard world always insists you remove a prop shaft to change the seal.
Awesome video. I love to see alternative ideas that provide a practical solution. I am a professional engineer with 34 years experience and I know there are always several solutions to any problem and what a great job you've done explaining the risks and the realities of what could "go wrong" Keep up the good work!
Thanks Jerry, there are certainly many ways to go with most job, the important thing is to know all the pros and cons, but sometimes (particularly with corroded outboards) you don't get a choice!
I totally agree. Mechanical stuffs not always works as we expect so you have to be able to think further and use some rough technics. Thanks for sharing
Thanks mate. :)
As a fine marine mechanic you are intelligent and aware . I would totally true you with my 25 hp 2 stroke 2008
Great video! Love how this guy is low key drinking on that beer 🍺 after a job well done! 😂👌🏻
Interesting to hear about using engineering quality oil seals .. I have done exactly the same and got the same advice from my supplier.
There are some issues in obtaining exactly the right size, but I've found there are many available, that are more than suitable.
Hey Geoff, we are lucky that our local engineering shop stocks quite a range of seals so we've always been able to get an exact match and they are always heaps cheaper which is nice. :)
I have been putting off replacing seals, thank you for giving me the confidence to replace with new.
i will make sure to get a good look at the size of new seal to have a better less expensive one for the next time. we would like to share a little sunshine, visit Florida
Hey Stephen, good luck with the seal replacement. Just watch out of the prop shaft and you'll be fine. I'd love to visit Florida again. Had a great time there many years ago. :)
Thank you. I just finished
Thank you for giving me some confidence, to change the prop seals on my 1976 20 hp mercury outboard. THANKS FRIEND
You're welcome, good luck with the job!
Thank you for making this video, I understand why you may have had a little.... reservations about making it but man, it was very helpful as my wife and I are in some very isolated islands and I am so far from a workshop! Cheers man
Thanks dangar your are a real world mechanic!
Always love to watch your experience play such a important role in repairs.....
Great vid my favorite so far, I've destroyed 3 carriers trying to remove them. This would have been a great solution.Marine oil seals are a rip off, I just ordered a lower unit seal and base plate kit and it was $85.
+alnbaba That's what gets me about all the insistence (particularly on social media) that things be done the "right way" Sometimes you just don't have that options and you need other techniques to fall back to. You are also right about the cost of marine parts. That's why I was so pleased to get the o-ring top from the engineering shop down the road.
I agree very much with your videos .. there is the "text book way" however in this case having to pull the gear case bearing carrier is actually more of a pain and to some degree if it's not broken why fix it
I'm actually in the process of changing the o rings on the shaft near the water pump at this point my biggest nightmare has been the impeller key it's been stuck and taken me 3 days using heat gun and a lot of hammer
I really enjoy your videos I think for those that will do it yourself this is perfect !
Thanks mate. Some parts certainly too get very stuck and trying to remove them just risks breakage. Good luck with your impeller key!
You are an invaluable source of solid information, many thanks for taking so much time to share it with us
Thanks mate, the vids have been helping you. :)
Dangar Marine yes they definitely have, very easy to follow and explained in a way that gave me confidence to tackle a few jobs I otherwise would not have, this from lreland
I love the realistic approach mate. Keep them coming.
Thanks John, will do!
HI there from NZ. This a seriously valuable video. Thank you taking the time to make it. I have a engine rebuild coming up and this video is bound to come in handy!
Glad it helped! :)
Great video as always. Nitrile o ring in place of garter spring is a great idea. Just be careful of the it dislodging from the lips if not fitted properly. One thing you did not mentioned is the oil seal material. I will put a viton rubber on the inner side n a nitrile on the outer. Double lips are great n I use them all the time. Keep up the good work.
+Richard Yap Hey Richard. I'm wishing I had done a closeup of putting the o-ring in to show fitting it securely. That's a good point about the differing oil seal materials. Next time!
Excellent video. I learned a lot with the close ups and explanations in detail. Awesome channel 👍
Glad it was helpful!
watched a few of your vids now,now doing all my own work on my outboard,thanks heaps
Thanks mate, glad to hear the videos are helping you with your outboard. :)
I sometimes use a drywall screw into the old seal to pull it out as well, and use a piece of PVC pipe to drive the new seal in.
+classicoutboards Yeah, the PVC pipe is the perfect size. :)
Will this work for a mercury lower unit?!
@@danfogarty5114 what size pvc??
@@johnchrist3092 i think it was 1.5 inch, I did this a year ago or more
Your channel is like the Haynes manual I have for my car. But better. And I love my Haynes.
Good to hear
Thanks for the tip on the seal Springs. Will be ordering some first them Monday morning. plus double lip seals are always the best way to go. you should get any bad comments on that. You have to do the same thing on high performance cars when idiots decide to give the car too much horsepower cam seals get too hot and that was on an Audi R8. that's what being a mechanic is all about experience. have a beer on me for that idea 💡.
+Bowes Project Thanks mate, glad you liked it. The guy I got the seals from also specifically mentioned the heat resistance of the o-rings so it is interesting you should mention that - not that underwater gearboxes get that hot I guess! P.S. I'll have that beer tonight. ;)
Thanks for the nice run through on this task.
Please note that many auto parts stores loan out tools at no or little cost.
You're welcome Matthew. Renting tools is a good way to go for jobs that you won't be doing very often.
Great video, this can be done on outdrives as well. Thanks for taking the time to make this. Good to know that there are other "hacks" out there besides myself..... Beer looks good....
Hey Roy, yes, there are many motors this can be done with. In fact it is the only realistic way to get the front and rear crank seals out of many motors when they need replacing.
urthebest! the tomsilva of marine
Once again, you made an awesome video that made me an instant 'mechanic'! Thank you.
You're welcome mate.
Great videos - these have been so useful to me. However - worth noting - this oil seal hack can't be done on a tohatsu/mercury/mariner 4/5/6hp model - the bearing carrier is cast in such a way that you can't access the propshaft seal without removing the carrier first. In fact the carrier, seal and bearing are available as one, pre-assembled line item and i'd recommend buying that, rather than wasting hours trying to get the carrier off in one piece. Even if you do get it off without damaging it, you'll find that the bearing is impossible to extract to gain access to the seal. Cheers
Keep up with the 'practical'/'real world' demos. Things are too often shown on immaculate parts and as you say, the ideal method doesn’t always work in the real world, once some corrosion has taken place.
+Robert Hickman Thanks Robert, glad you like this style of vid.
Still helpful!!!!! I justs done one this way,AFTER watching you do it; Thanks very much,DANGAR MARINE; you have the power,lol
I watched several videos on this subject and combined a bit of all of them but I do like the way this guy goes into detail and always really great camera work, as he said in an ideal world we would have all the toys for every single job but I will probably only do this once so another good reason to learn "valuable" alternative methods, in the end I used two 50mm x 4mm self tapping screws, the brand name is Goldscrew from Screwfix but might not have Screwfix in Aus? Any 50mm x 4mm should do the job, there is no drilling required so no issue of swarf entering the prop shaft bearings and use a long driver bit so as to clear the prop shaft and get at least parallel to it when screwing in the screws, clearly patients, care and attention is required during this process just take your time...I found this method to be completely stress free, quick and easy, no nicks to anything, the only thing I will say is once the screw starts to bite into the metal of the oil seal then stop, no need to go in too far just couple of turns to grip will do it, a screw each side and then use two Wonder Bars nail bars to apply even pressure to either side of the seal and out she pops, rinse and repeat for the second seal, my first seal on my Yamaha 70b 2002 was not driven all of the way in it was positioned flush with the casing, this is better because it leaves a gap between the seals and its easier to feel when the screw punctures it, my last comment on the Automotive double seals is maybe its possible to turn the outside seal inwards so the spring is on the gearbox side and then it will unlikely see any salt water, I see no reason that wouldn't work just so long as the propeller shaft wasn't rusty or nicked where it makes contact, could even additionally coat the spring with marine grease as extra protection...
I really appreciate all of your videos. You make it look easy. Thanks
You're welcome, Ken. I'm glad you like them. :)
Great camera work. So many DIY vids are poorly lit, out of focus, too far to show critical detail, shaky, etc. Don't think I've seen a bad one yet on your channel. 👍
Thanks mate. If you go to the older vids you'll find plenty of bad ones but I'm slowly learning!
Thanks mate! You've saved me hours of frustration replacing the oil seals in my 25 year-old Yama 15 outboard. I'm a cruising sailor with no workshop and no fancy tools. I do have time and patience, so this approach is perfect.
Capt. Blackheart Charlie
s/v Aurora
Key West, Conch Republic
Nice video my man just what I was looking for. Keep up the real life tips not every job is txt book like you say. Thanks for the help
Oring and seal trick was worth the watching. Great video
Thanks John, I was really happy when the bearing supply guy showed me that one too.
This convinced me to stay with outboards with removable (slide out) gear assembly.