Stu, Good to see the content coming…. I haven’t owned a boat since my early teens but at 57 I’m still interested to learn something that I don’t need or Will ever put into practice…..great stuff mate.
@@DangarMarine hello Sir really need to speak with you if possible about my Johnson ocean pro. Sorry not sure this is the best way to contact you I will keep trying
Love these outboard videos. I had the same problem with my 2003 Yamaha 115 4 stroke. Three trips to a good marina couldn't solve it. I finally swapped out the IAC valve. It cost $40, took five minutes to swap, and fixed the issue of stalling at low idle.
Have a 90 model Johnson 8 HP behaving exactly the same way, went through the same steps and now it idles correctly and its as good as a 22 year old motor can be, thanks once again for a first -class informative video. You keep us all running smoothly.
Great video, love your style. I have worked on carbs for years, just tinkering. My 2 rules of thumb... 1. If the idle mixture screw is located on the engine side of the throttle plate, it's fuel adjustment. If it's located on the air intake side, it's air mixture. 2. When adjusting the fuel mixture screw, don't aim for the highes idle. That's too lean and not good, especially for a 2 stroke. Set it at a start of 1,5 to 2 turns out (warm motor) and find a decent idle speed. Now, turn ut in 'til revs climb, (lean) and make a note of screw position. Now turn it out slowly 'til the motor just begins to run slightly unevenly. Split the difference of those 2 points and that's the stoechiometric ratio for that motor at idle. Cheers.
once I've found the mixture screw adjustment......... I just do the screw turn counting between too lean and too rich....do your arithmetic and wind the screw in between these points; and who cares if you reach a stoechiometric balance ?? Just get the freakin' mixture to work well; with intelligent use of the idle screw.... if you get into stoechiometric theories and practice, you are going to need a lab on board to take real readings.... and at least a chemist as a staff member
In the end, I had many other problems with my motor which was not the external tank. After seven visits to my local Boat shop, I decided to get a second opinion from a Commercial boat shop that also worked on small engines. After a few minutes and after conducting a compression test on the motor they immediately concluded that the motors compression was way too low. Yup, a brand-new motor. After trying to figure this out for over a year and various visits to my local boat shop my conclusion is get a second opinion by another professional. It never hurts. Thanks for your video and help.
As a new boat owner, with a very old 1985 Johnson 100 hp two cycle outboard, I have found your videos very informative and easy to understand, even if the fix requires more skill that I currently have. Thank you very much and keep them coming as I love learning!!!!
Great detail and explanations along the way without turning it into a boring lecture session! I've struggled with the carburetors on two strokes, this helps.
Hi Stu, been watching your channel for several years now. You’ve given me the ambition to fix a 2000 merc 25 2-stroke that has been non running since 2014. Ive replaced everything in the ignition system sans the coils but all she does is back fire, its been a head scratcher. I’ll be looking through more of your videos for additional guidance. Hoping she doesn’t end up as a hung cowl in my garage.
Hi Stu, just watched and must say good to see you going over the basics on small 2 stroke motors. Allot of folks don't know much about these. Things like having the pump ball point with the arrow up. There is a check valve in it and once full insures there is no air in the line. Different fuel/oil mix requirements like 50:1, 24:1 and for the vintage 40's motors 16:1. Having the owners manual and a service manual if your doing more than the basics is a must. Good to see you doing these videos. Tim
Great video. I enjoyed how you addressed a problem by exploring how the motor and carburetor are supposed to work and then looked at simple solutions first. Digging into a carburetor ups the chance of a maintenance induced failure and a real time burner, all the while the motor works fine.
Stu you are such a good teacher. Love how you show and explain everything in a humble and simple show-and-tell way. You come across humble yet it's also clear you are a fantastic mechanic and a real specialist.
I’m was wondering why I find your videos so comforting and I think it’s because you describe things as they really are. There’s no BS like one always gets when dealing with service managers in car dealerships. It’s like having boy’s fun working on an engine with a straight talking mate.
Hey Stu, what a perfect day for messing around with boats. That water was nearly like glass. Not bad for a near mid winter day close to Sydney. Ya wouldn't be dead for quids mate. Good content, well explained and common sense narration. Well done mate and thanks for the effort. Greatly appreciated.
Small tip there Stu (Hi, from Norway). The Choke on many of these motors has a step. You can feel it when you push the choke knob in. After the first pull (cold engine) with the choke all out adt throttle @ zero, I push the choke half way in ( you should feel a small bump and the stick would hold, and then give it some throttle, 20-30%. And let it run like that for about 10-30 second.. I always found this to be a win. Best regards
hello, your videos are very good, I've learned a lot from them even without understanding their language because I'm Brazilian and I have an old evinrude 135
I've got Yamaha 2 stroke 200hp outboard. I live in Florida and I've noticed I need to adjust the carbs depending on the outdoor temp. When it's cold outside it seems to idle higher than when it's summer and 92 degrees out. I've also learned when tuning the carbs, run it in a barrel under pressure, not on the ear muffs.
Great video. I had a similar problem last weekend. It turned out to be that I was loosing air in my external gas tank. I never thought it was the tank because its brand new. Changed the main hose and it now works great while idling or when crawling at very low speeds down the river. I really liked your detailed process of elimination. I wish I would have seen this video last week because it could have saved me a lot of time. Brilliant video.
I haven't followed your channel daily since the very early days, but still have taken a peek now and again. Although I've enjoyed your adventures in the larger scale, the kind of vids like this one are the vids that I always enjoy the most. You know the kind. The kind of video where everyone can tell you a better way to do what you do, an easier way to do the exact same thing or tell you that you know nothing. Afterall, the internet is the internet. You're a gentleman, my friend. I always enjoy watching.
Thanks for the video. I have run into several cases where the "O" rings in the fuel connectors have cracks, allowing air in. Once had to squeeze the bulb repeatedly to get home. Another "possible" to add to the list. Turns out that it US it is just as cheap to replace the whole connector plastic piece as it is to get the O ring. I think the Baja CA heat is especially hard on these. Lastly, have seen some add a little silicone lube to help O rings last.
Small combustion engines are pretty much the same. I had a pressure washer motor that would start, run for about 30 to 45 secs....then die. A neighbor told me about Techron. He said go pick some up at an auto store, pour a little (key...little) in the gas and give it a try. Did the trick. Now it runs like brand new and that is all I did. Worth trying before a simple or complicated tear down.
@@DangarMarine I lost my handheld from college but have an HP app on my computer. I still get confused when I use a normal calculator. Great content, man. Keep it up!
Thank you for this video. Having a similar issue with a '71 Johnson 60hp. I think the carbs (all three) need a good cleaning. BTW, every time I or my wife wears out Dangar Marine t-shirts, we always get compliments...and you potentially get new viewers!
I didn't get a super close look at it, but if the needle is damaged or "knurled" in any way and the accompanying jet has any deformation, it'll never idle perfectly. The taper in the needle should be linear or at least the same angle as the taper in the jet. Or the low level fuel flow will be all squirrelly. Yet another great basic video from the Maestro!
@@DangarMarine Congratulations you have been selected among our shortlisted winners from our previous giveaway, contact the number above^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^🎁
Glad to see ya back in the saddle. I'm looking forward to more with you and Adrian working on that "new" boat. Being a long-term user of of HP products, I was happy to see you RPN'ing with that calculator.
Thanks for taking the time to do these videos! I am just finishing up Yamaha SG20. Upper bolt the holds the intermediate to pivot arm worked loose. Because of your videos I was able to pull lower unit and then the powerhead to clean and tighten (with loctite) that hidden bolt. While apart it only made sense to do head gaskets, exhaust cooling gaskets, thermostat and and and lol Once again thanks so much! Truly informative videos
Thanks Stu, all back together and running good. Only issue is water is coming out of weep holes where lower unit bolts to mid section. I have pulled it twice to make sure tube was seated and it had been. Replaced waterpump housing, base plate, housing stainless insert, new impeller and its still pissing out. Havent been able to find anything online to trouble shoot. Any thoughts? Pee hole is working and thermostat housing warms to the touch. Water also sputtering out of back of midsection just below bottom cowl. Its a small 2 inch x 4 inch cover with 2 screws. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Shawn
I definitely will. I was talking to Adrian yesterday about how easy it is forget that many people are new to engines and miss out of explaining some of the prerequisite stuff. Will definitely be getting back to basics more.
Looking forward to this video series. I have a 5 horsepower outboard my grandfather bought in the 70s that I've been meaning to rebuild for a sailboat project. I'm sure this info will prove useful, so thanks! 👍️ And props for the reverse-polish HP calculator!
Thanks Rob. I've always been a big believer confirming a part is bad before replacing it. Service manuals are great for that as they will almost always give you acceptable ranges for testing parts.
Perfect timing with this video! I've got a motor that is stalling when going into gear, I'll definitely be using this video as a guide for solving that issue. Thanks for the great content!
Great video for someone who is just starting off, thanks, I have a brand new Orca engine and yes I know everybody hates them but that’s what I bought (9.9) I can’t believe I put into Amazon spark plug spacer key ring and a few came up for £2.99 so I bought that. I love learning and for someone who had a stroke and WAS not now paralysed all down one side and blind all I have now is learning difficulties and you are putting this in a way even I can understand so thank you very much. Thanks for sharing Ray K UK 🇬🇧 YNWA.
im working on a 1981 9.9 evinrude for a friend, i cleaned the carb but it was way out of adjustment, its evident that someone worked on it and couldnt figure it out then just left it, parts missing and all, well i got it running but am facing the exact issues demonstrated here, thank for the video it will be a tremendous help when i get back to it in a few days. other thing im trying to figure out is the tiller is a shaft driven system and when you rotate the handle the shaft going into the outboard seems to have slop in the teeth or something and doesnt want to engage the carb like it should....anyways, Cheers from Tulsa, i met you at the SV Seeker meetup and it was a pleasure to have met you, good to see it looks like you are doing well as well
Hello Stu, St. Catharines Canada here. Just found your YTube site. Watched the first bit, , , ehh , , maybe later. I don't own a boat anymore. Old age pension is to tiny. BUT ! Then I heard " Thinking Juice " ! ! You got a new subscriber brother.
Stu, I can’t tell you how much your videos have helped me understand how an outboard works and how to diagnose them. I love how you also give the dirty “you’re not supposed to do it this way” fix as well. Thanks for making such great content!
This is the type of video that originally brought me to your channel.m This type of content is some of my favourite because I can relate to it more. Going to to the garage (shed) now to work on my 1964 Honda C200 with new knowledge! Be well.
When you get right into it, how the choke works is it creates a depression behind the choke flap that lowers the boiling point of fuel - allowing it to boil off into a gas. Pulling it full on like you do is a good idea. In fact many cars with auto chokes on their carbs used to work on this exact principal and had a vacuum dashpot that partially opened the flap once the engine fired so air would flow in. Firstly I'm not a small engine mechanic but a general stream mechanic so this may not be the case in small engine carbs but at least in automotive use and this is somewhat of a mute point but relevant nonetheless, in the idle mixture circuit the mixture is fixed. What the mixture screw does is adjust the volume of pre atomized fuel and air in the idle mixture circuit. The screw is simply a flow rate adjuster. The thing is dirt in the idle mixture circuit does have a direct effect on the idle circuit mixture ratio so compensating by opening the idle mixture screw more and more isn't going to yield satisfactory results on idle quality. Also I always thought that about 50rpm rich of peak idle speed is preferred over fastest idle but this maybe different on premix 2 strokes and small engines. I usually adjust the throttle stop screw to completely closed then 1/8th in so the blade[s] don't jam in the bore and the rest with the mixture screw. It is a fact of life that the more you open the throttle blade at idle the less the signal in the idle mixture circuit - so the idle mixture screw has less and less authority the more you open the throttle stop screw since there's less vacuum available to the idle mixture circuit. If you can't get the speed and/or quality then another 1/8th turn in on the throttle stop screw then repeat. Rich of fastest idle (so a 50 or so rpm drop) is generally preferred on the mixture screw at least on four strokes LOL.
You forgot to mention, when discussing old fuel, that gasoline with ethanol added, is Hrdroscopic: that is it attracts water. So, sitting, it will end up with water in the float bowl, and that can cause all kinds of issues. Lawn mowing season just started here, and I have to go thru all my engines (carboraturs) that weren't properly put away. I try and run "seasonal" equipment dry... I've been adding fuel shut off's to machines that don't have them vs having to run the entire tank of fuel out :) And run ethanaol free fuel if possible!!!
you are doing the correct things. And finding a no ethanol gasoline for your garden tools or boat engines is way up there. The 'run 'til its dry' method is the best too.... any left over fuel that you can't got rid of, put it into your car........ it will be OK. But to leave it in your boat motor or chainsaw...... it's gunna get blocked for sure.
Our 2006 Honda Bf90A kept quitting without warning. Then it would run great for a while. Took me 6 months to find an intermittent problem in the ignition switch. I would have figured it out sooner if I had known that when you turn off the ignition, it kills the engine by grounding the ignition, not by cutting voltage to the ignition as in cars and most motorcycles. (On the Honda it's the Black/Red wire!). Live and learn.
Eddie...... Ruf Ruf.....YOU, Dangar Marine.... are outboard magicians.... can smell the air of fuel droplets and decide on the right direction to modify.... Cool stuff Mate.
Great content as usual, I use so many of your videos to help with both my motors, 7.5 merc and 85 hp force(older merc), a video on electric chokes would be greatly appreciated, my 85 tends to not accuate unless manually forcing the choke on. Thanks
Mate, love these videos. You of all people have helped me the most sorting out my own little 2stroke yammy. So many little details in the video that are super super helpful. Love it, and thank you!
Great video Stu! I use a Colourtune spark plug mixture tool. It is a spark plug with a glass window so you can see the flame front as it occurs. I suggest when it is hard to decipher if it is spark or mixture it is a great asset. Really useful for two stroke engines, particularly with multiple carburettors. I use it on ultralight aircraft engines, both 2&4 stroke. It gives you a perfect view what the engine is actually doing, rich lean or if there is a problem with blockages it shows you instantly the issue. It comes with mirrors and extensions to make it easier to set up in any awkward position. In regards of the tachometer, there are miniature lcd ones available which have a clip to put on the lead or a length of wire which you wrap a few turns around it. Cost about $30 and most have an hour meter incorporated.
White Ants. Plenty of those mongrels on Dangar. About 45 years ago my old man (a builder) rebuilt a house on Dangar after it was devastated by termites. Keep up the vigil Daffy!
Outboard content! I, for one am quite happy to see this! edit: I've had my boat with a Suzuki d175 on the back for almost four years. I'm hoping to hit ten hours on the clock this year lol
Great video Stu, greatly appreciate your efforts in making these, inspires me to have a go and work on my own old boats. Even my Border Collie is now a keen watcher of your videos. He was glued to the TV watching the chickens and parrot at the end of this video and didn’t move and continued to watch as an older video of yours started up.
good stuff and great video, as I have a late 90s grumpy 50hp evinrude, its taken me ages to get it to idle, especially in water, I find mine does stall a bit more in winter than summer though, despite its had a carby clean, new plugs and both carbs tuned. I find I have to change fuel air mixture sometimes between hot and cold weather. what youve specfied here is great, and I will go have another look at mine again.
Those insides look just like my 2 stroke 8hp Yamaha. Lol. I always appreciate your videos! Nice to see you and hope all is well in your little part of the world.
Stu, some of these carbs the idle mixture screw is actually regulating the air instead of the fuel. So turning the screw in is decreasing the air -> richer mixture and vice versa. Just food for thought.
Extra oil in the mix means less fuel through the jet which causes a lean burn and engine damage as a result. Even though fuel is big $$ ATM still go with 98 if you can as much as it hurts to fill. Haul out and engine out repair are big bucks… Coming to you from a local MerCruiser Inboard Re-Conditioner flat out rebuilding engines. Ron
Most 2 stroke manufacturers recommend adjusting the mixture until highest idle rpm once reached back the mixture screw 1\4 turn (more fuel) reason being a 2 stroke depends on its fuel for lubrication so running at slightly lean or even sm mixture can cause the motor to have a greatly reduced lifespan. Just something to consider.
Love these vids where you are working off the boat. Love your work boat. I recently acquired a property On the river here and now have my own dock. I'm looking for A work boat now. Keep it up buddy. Watching from central Missouri on the Osage River!
I experienced this for years on a late 90s 50 Evinrude. Each time i took it to the local marine mechanic somewhere along the way between Berowra and Brooklyn, they came up with a different reason every time i took it back, and never resolved it. It certainly made coming into a wharf interesting and honestly deterred me from wanting to use the boat in the end.
Stu good content man. I don't know if the internet will agree but this is the kind of stuff I'd love to see on your channel. Consider a clip on mic for better audio quality. Recording the screen with the PIP while looking at the manual was what I was hoping you'd do. Well done.
Not sure if you can get it where you are but Seafoam does a good job with cleaning carbs on a poorly running motor. I have to admit, it's hit or miss but definitely worth a try for those not mechanically inclined.
Stu is my go to guy if issues with outboards keep it up Stu brilliantly explained Thanks you
Videos like this are why I started watching you. Thanks Stu.
Glad you like them!
It's very therapeutic sitting at work, watching Stu working and explaining. Almost feels like I'm there doing it with him.
Thanks Nick. I always feel like I'm hanging out with you guys while making the vids too. :)
Always impressed with your high-wire performances, working on outboards while they're hanging over the water...
Stu, Good to see the content coming…. I haven’t owned a boat since my early teens but at 57 I’m still interested to learn something that I don’t need or Will ever put into practice…..great stuff mate.
Thanks mate, glad you enjoyed it. :)
Get yourself a boat mate. It’s not too late
@@kiwiwifi here to say the same.
He needs to get himself one.
Im 39 with 4 kids and made it happen.
Nothing wrong with mine, just love dangar
Get that boat brother!
@@DangarMarine hello Sir really need to speak with you if possible about my Johnson ocean pro. Sorry not sure this is the best way to contact you I will keep trying
Great info Stu. Premix at the pump, that's awesome. Wish we had that in the states.
It is very handy for the commuter boats. Travelling back and forth each day we tend to fill boats up once a week so mixing fuel becoming tiresome.
unless you are using the boat every day, premix can work against you. it will settle and separate after a few weeks, needs to be mixed again.
Most synthetic 2 stroke oil can hold fuel in suspension easily for 2 years minimum per the manufacturers data
Love these outboard videos. I had the same problem with my 2003 Yamaha 115 4 stroke. Three trips to a good marina couldn't solve it. I finally swapped out the IAC valve. It cost $40, took five minutes to swap, and fixed the issue of stalling at low idle.
Nice work!
Have a 90 model Johnson 8 HP behaving exactly the same way, went through the same steps and now it idles correctly and its as good as a 22 year old motor can be, thanks once again for a first -class informative video. You keep us all running smoothly.
This vid came as if ordered. I am having this exact issue on a 40 Suzuki , have a much better understanding now to sort it out.
Hey Stu, I miss this type of content please make more. Love all that you do.
Thanks mate, will do!
Great video, love your style.
I have worked on carbs for years, just tinkering. My 2 rules of thumb...
1. If the idle mixture screw is located on the engine side of the throttle plate, it's fuel adjustment. If it's located on the air intake side, it's
air mixture.
2. When adjusting the fuel mixture screw, don't aim for the highes idle. That's too lean and not good, especially for a 2 stroke. Set it at a start
of 1,5 to 2 turns out (warm motor) and find a decent idle speed. Now, turn ut in 'til revs climb, (lean) and make a note of screw position.
Now turn it out slowly 'til the motor just begins to run slightly unevenly. Split the difference of those 2 points and that's the
stoechiometric ratio for that motor at idle.
Cheers.
once I've found the mixture screw adjustment......... I just do the screw turn counting between too lean and too rich....do your arithmetic and wind the screw in between these points; and who cares if you reach a stoechiometric balance ?? Just get the freakin' mixture to work well; with intelligent use of the idle screw....
if you get into
stoechiometric theories and practice, you are going to need a lab on board to take real readings.... and at least a chemist as a staff member
In the end, I had many other problems with my motor which was not the external tank. After seven visits to my local Boat shop, I decided to get a second opinion from a Commercial boat shop that also worked on small engines. After a few minutes and after conducting a compression test on the motor they immediately concluded that the motors compression was way too low. Yup, a brand-new motor. After trying to figure this out for over a year and various visits to my local boat shop my conclusion is get a second opinion by another professional. It never hurts. Thanks for your video and help.
As a new boat owner, with a very old 1985 Johnson 100 hp two cycle outboard, I have found your videos very informative and easy to understand, even if the fix requires more skill that I currently have. Thank you very much and keep them coming as I love learning!!!!
Glad to help. Enjoy your new boat! :)
Great detail and explanations along the way without turning it into a boring lecture session! I've struggled with the carburetors on two strokes, this helps.
Thanks Jeff, glad you found the video helpful.
Glad to see you back on outboards....
Thanks mate, I actually enjoyed making this more than any other video in a while.
The fact that your dock had pre-mix at the pump, blew my mind! Land locked here in Colorado (US) and have to mix all my fuel.
Hi Stu, been watching your channel for several years now. You’ve given me the ambition to fix a 2000 merc 25 2-stroke that has been non running since 2014. Ive replaced everything in the ignition system sans the coils but all she does is back fire, its been a head scratcher. I’ll be looking through more of your videos for additional guidance. Hoping she doesn’t end up as a hung cowl in my garage.
If it backfires it either most likely either bad timing or the coil leads going to the wrong spark plugs.
@@DangarMarine That was it had crossed leads. She fired right up… thank you very much!
This completely solved my stalling issue on my 9.9 Mercury 2 stroke. Thanks a million!!
Hi Stu, just watched and must say good to see you going over the basics on small 2 stroke motors. Allot of folks don't know much about these. Things like having the pump ball point with the arrow up. There is a check valve in it and once full insures there is no air in the line. Different fuel/oil mix requirements like 50:1, 24:1 and for the vintage 40's motors 16:1. Having the owners manual and a service manual if your doing more than the basics is a must. Good to see you doing these videos. Tim
Thanks Tim!
Great video. I enjoyed how you addressed a problem by exploring how the motor and carburetor are supposed to work and then looked at simple solutions first. Digging into a carburetor ups the chance of a maintenance induced failure and a real time burner, all the while the motor works fine.
Stu you are such a good teacher. Love how you show and explain everything in a humble and simple show-and-tell way. You come across humble yet it's also clear you are a fantastic mechanic and a real specialist.
Wow, thanks!
I’m was wondering why I find your videos so comforting and I think it’s because you describe things as they really are.
There’s no BS like one always gets when dealing with service managers in car dealerships.
It’s like having boy’s fun working on an engine with a straight talking mate.
Hey Stu, what a perfect day for messing around with boats. That water was nearly like glass. Not bad for a near mid winter day close to Sydney. Ya wouldn't be dead for quids mate. Good content, well explained and common sense narration. Well done mate and thanks for the effort. Greatly appreciated.
Thanks Bruce. It was a very calm day on the water for sure.
Small tip there Stu (Hi, from Norway). The Choke on many of these motors has a step. You can feel it when you push the choke knob in. After the first pull (cold engine) with the choke all out adt throttle @ zero, I push the choke half way in ( you should feel a small bump and the stick would hold, and then give it some throttle, 20-30%. And let it run like that for about 10-30 second.. I always found this to be a win. Best regards
hello, your videos are very good, I've learned a lot from them even without understanding their language because I'm Brazilian and I have an old evinrude 135
hello good morning
Glad you like them!
Your videos saved me a ton. Replaced starter On Evinrude 175 out board successfully !! Thanks
I've got Yamaha 2 stroke 200hp outboard. I live in Florida and I've noticed I need to adjust the carbs depending on the outdoor temp. When it's cold outside it seems to idle higher than when it's summer and 92 degrees out. I've also learned when tuning the carbs, run it in a barrel under pressure, not on the ear muffs.
It is amazing how much the subtle things like temp and water pressure can affect how it runs and idles.
Excellent advice on thinking about "what's changed?" if anything.
Great video. I had a similar problem last weekend. It turned out to be that I was loosing air in my external gas tank. I never thought it was the tank because its brand new. Changed the main hose and it now works great while idling or when crawling at very low speeds down the river. I really liked your detailed process of elimination. I wish I would have seen this video last week because it could have saved me a lot of time. Brilliant video.
Thanks Daniel. Yes, plenty of problem are caused by an air leak in the fuel hose. Glad you found it.
I haven't followed your channel daily since the very early days, but still have taken a peek now and again. Although I've enjoyed your adventures in the larger scale, the kind of vids like this one are the vids that I always enjoy the most.
You know the kind. The kind of video where everyone can tell you a better way to do what you do, an easier way to do the exact same thing or tell you that you know nothing. Afterall, the internet is the internet.
You're a gentleman, my friend. I always enjoy watching.
Thanks Rob, appreciate you stopping by. :)
I've never owned a boat in my life but I love wtaching your channel!
Thanks Ian, glad you enjoyed!
Thanks for the video. I have run into several cases where the "O" rings in the fuel connectors have cracks, allowing air in. Once had to squeeze the bulb repeatedly to get home. Another "possible" to add to the list. Turns out that it US it is just as cheap to replace the whole connector plastic piece as it is to get the O ring. I think the Baja CA heat is especially hard on these. Lastly, have seen some add a little silicone lube to help O rings last.
Obviously a man of good taste, enjoying a Cooper’s Pale Ale while he works..
Small combustion engines are pretty much the same. I had a pressure washer motor that would start, run for about 30 to 45 secs....then die. A neighbor told me about Techron. He said go pick some up at an auto store, pour a little (key...little) in the gas and give it a try. Did the trick. Now it runs like brand new and that is all I did. Worth trying before a simple or complicated tear down.
Happy to see your doing some outboard instructions again!
Wow premix at the pump! I’m this day old to find that out. Clearly been under a rock
Love to see you using an old HP calculator! Reverse Polish notation ftw!
I do love the HP calculators. :)
@@DangarMarine I lost my handheld from college but have an HP app on my computer. I still get confused when I use a normal calculator. Great content, man. Keep it up!
Thank you for this video. Having a similar issue with a '71 Johnson 60hp. I think the carbs (all three) need a good cleaning. BTW, every time I or my wife wears out Dangar Marine t-shirts, we always get compliments...and you potentially get new viewers!
Thanks mate, glad you enjoyed the video and thanks for supporting the channel! :)
I didn't get a super close look at it, but if the needle is damaged or "knurled" in any way and the accompanying jet has any deformation, it'll never idle perfectly. The taper in the needle should be linear or at least the same angle as the taper in the jet. Or the low level fuel flow will be all squirrelly. Yet another great basic video from the Maestro!
I definitely agree that once these needles get deformed they never quite idle the same. Not an expensive part to replace either.
@@DangarMarine Congratulations you have been selected among our shortlisted winners from our previous giveaway, contact the number above^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^🎁
@@DangarMarine are you the one sending these messages
wow.. wonderful.. glad we got a new video on outboard servicing!
Glad to see ya back in the saddle. I'm looking forward to more with you and Adrian working on that "new" boat. Being a long-term user of of HP products, I was happy to see you RPN'ing with that calculator.
I do love the HP calculators! :)
Wow, have not seen an HP calculator in a long time.
RPN for the win.
Indeed!
Yep. I saw the calculator and trawled through the comments to see if it was just me who was old school.
Ciao.
Mark in Dublin, Ireland.
Thanks for taking the time to do these videos!
I am just finishing up Yamaha SG20. Upper bolt the holds the intermediate to pivot arm worked loose. Because of your videos I was able to pull lower unit and then the powerhead to clean and tighten (with loctite) that hidden bolt.
While apart it only made sense to do head gaskets, exhaust cooling gaskets, thermostat and and and lol
Once again thanks so much! Truly informative videos
Always easier to do those extra jobs while you are there! Glad the videos have been helping.
Thanks Stu, all back together and running good. Only issue is water is coming out of weep holes where lower unit bolts to mid section. I have pulled it twice to make sure tube was seated and it had been. Replaced waterpump housing, base plate, housing stainless insert, new impeller and its still pissing out. Havent been able to find anything online to trouble shoot. Any thoughts? Pee hole is working and thermostat housing warms to the touch. Water also sputtering out of back of midsection just below bottom cowl. Its a small 2 inch x 4 inch cover with 2 screws.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Shawn
Please do more content on some of those basics. Love it!
I definitely will. I was talking to Adrian yesterday about how easy it is forget that many people are new to engines and miss out of explaining some of the prerequisite stuff. Will definitely be getting back to basics more.
Looking forward to this video series. I have a 5 horsepower outboard my grandfather bought in the 70s that I've been meaning to rebuild for a sailboat project. I'm sure this info will prove useful, so thanks! 👍️ And props for the reverse-polish HP calculator!
Thanks Ted, good luck with the sailboat project.
Thank you for all of the videos, you have saved me a lot of headaches and money as well.
I find your videos continuously useful and rich. Keep up the good work, it's much appreciated!
Glad you like them!
Thanks, nice to see someone following a bit of logic and not just firing the parts cannon at the problem :-)
Thanks Rob. I've always been a big believer confirming a part is bad before replacing it. Service manuals are great for that as they will almost always give you acceptable ranges for testing parts.
Perfect timing with this video! I've got a motor that is stalling when going into gear, I'll definitely be using this video as a guide for solving that issue. Thanks for the great content!
Good luck with the fix. Another common cause will be a dirty carburettor.
Great video for someone who is just starting off, thanks, I have a brand new Orca engine and yes I know everybody hates them but that’s what I bought (9.9) I can’t believe I put into Amazon spark plug spacer key ring and a few came up for £2.99 so I bought that. I love learning and for someone who had a stroke and WAS not now paralysed all down one side and blind all I have now is learning difficulties and you are putting this in a way even I can understand so thank you very much. Thanks for sharing Ray K UK 🇬🇧 YNWA.
Great video, covered many of the basics of fuel air delivery and mixture. Very informative!
Glad it was helpful!
Good confirmation from you on my thinking that my Mercury runs better with the choke somewhat halfway pushed in.
Your outboard repairs have improved since the one you fixed up in Qld🙂
The HP calc brought back some memories
im working on a 1981 9.9 evinrude for a friend, i cleaned the carb but it was way out of adjustment, its evident that someone worked on it and couldnt figure it out then just left it, parts missing and all, well i got it running but am facing the exact issues demonstrated here, thank for the video it will be a tremendous help when i get back to it in a few days.
other thing im trying to figure out is the tiller is a shaft driven system and when you rotate the handle the shaft going into the outboard seems to have slop in the teeth or something and doesnt want to engage the carb like it should....anyways, Cheers from Tulsa, i met you at the SV Seeker meetup and it was a pleasure to have met you, good to see it looks like you are doing well as well
really enjoy this type of content, it's why I started watching the channel before Renko came along, which was bonus material!!
Glad you enjoy it!
Nice one Stu, had both a 2 stroke and 4 stroke for my now sold sailboat, always something to adjust or clean, Jeff in LA USA
It's a never ending battle that's for sure!
Love these 2 stroke small outboard videos ,this is what i stumbled upon awhile back and subscribed to you channel
Thanks mate, glad you enjoy them. :)
Hello Stu, St. Catharines Canada here. Just found your YTube site. Watched the first bit, , , ehh , , maybe later. I don't own a boat anymore. Old age pension is to tiny. BUT ! Then I heard " Thinking Juice " ! ! You got a new subscriber brother.
Welcome aboard!
Stu, I can’t tell you how much your videos have helped me understand how an outboard works and how to diagnose them. I love how you also give the dirty “you’re not supposed to do it this way” fix as well.
Thanks for making such great content!
Thanks Nathan, happy to help. :)
I always set idle speed by ear. Works every time and is quite accurate.
I enjoy watching all the advertisements before each video as I know this will bring more quality videos in the future :)
Thanks mate!
Good info. Happy cruising.
Thanks mate, you too!
This is the type of video that originally brought me to your channel.m This type of content is some of my favourite because I can relate to it more. Going to to the garage (shed) now to work on my 1964 Honda C200 with new knowledge! Be well.
Glad you enjoyed!
When you get right into it, how the choke works is it creates a depression behind the choke flap that lowers the boiling point of fuel - allowing it to boil off into a gas.
Pulling it full on like you do is a good idea. In fact many cars with auto chokes on their carbs used to work on this exact principal and had a vacuum dashpot that partially opened the flap once the engine fired so air would flow in.
Firstly I'm not a small engine mechanic but a general stream mechanic so this may not be the case in small engine carbs but at least in automotive use and this is somewhat of a mute point but relevant nonetheless, in the idle mixture circuit the mixture is fixed. What the mixture screw does is adjust the volume of pre atomized fuel and air in the idle mixture circuit. The screw is simply a flow rate adjuster. The thing is dirt in the idle mixture circuit does have a direct effect on the idle circuit mixture ratio so compensating by opening the idle mixture screw more and more isn't going to yield satisfactory results on idle quality.
Also I always thought that about 50rpm rich of peak idle speed is preferred over fastest idle but this maybe different on premix 2 strokes and small engines. I usually adjust the throttle stop screw to completely closed then 1/8th in so the blade[s] don't jam in the bore and the rest with the mixture screw.
It is a fact of life that the more you open the throttle blade at idle the less the signal in the idle mixture circuit - so the idle mixture screw has less and less authority the more you open the throttle stop screw since there's less vacuum available to the idle mixture circuit.
If you can't get the speed and/or quality then another 1/8th turn in on the throttle stop screw then repeat. Rich of fastest idle (so a 50 or so rpm drop) is generally preferred on the mixture screw at least on four strokes LOL.
You forgot to mention, when discussing old fuel, that gasoline with ethanol added, is Hrdroscopic: that is it attracts water. So, sitting, it will end up with water in the float bowl, and that can cause all kinds of issues. Lawn mowing season just started here, and I have to go thru all my engines (carboraturs) that weren't properly put away. I try and run "seasonal" equipment dry... I've been adding fuel shut off's to machines that don't have them vs having to run the entire tank of fuel out :) And run ethanaol free fuel if possible!!!
you are doing the correct things. And finding a no ethanol gasoline for your garden tools or boat engines is way up there. The 'run 'til its dry' method is the best too.... any left over fuel that you can't got rid of, put it into your car........ it will be OK. But to leave it in your boat motor or chainsaw...... it's gunna get blocked for sure.
Our 2006 Honda Bf90A kept quitting without warning. Then it would run great for a while. Took me 6 months to find an intermittent problem in the ignition switch. I would have figured it out sooner if I had known that when you turn off the ignition, it kills the engine by grounding the ignition, not by cutting voltage to the ignition as in cars and most motorcycles. (On the Honda it's the Black/Red wire!). Live and learn.
Those intermittent electrical problems can definitely be tricky to track down.
Eddie...... Ruf Ruf.....YOU, Dangar Marine.... are outboard magicians.... can smell the air of fuel droplets and decide on the right direction to modify.... Cool stuff Mate.
Thank you for being so detailed but yet understandable.
Great content as usual, I use so many of your videos to help with both my motors, 7.5 merc and 85 hp force(older merc), a video on electric chokes would be greatly appreciated, my 85 tends to not accuate unless manually forcing the choke on. Thanks
Mate, love these videos. You of all people have helped me the most sorting out my own little 2stroke yammy. So many little details in the video that are super super helpful. Love it, and thank you!
Great to hear!
Im not sure how i found your channel stu but so happy i did your a propper man !
Nice video Stu, good to refresh what you think you know but often forget....plus went online and got myself one of those handy gap gauges.
Glad you like it. Those gap tools are such a great, cheap thing to have in the bag.
Good one. I always have trouble with carbs.
An HP 35 scientific calculator, you’ve had that a while, I believe no longer available. One of the best calculators in my opinion ever made.
I do love the HP calculators! :)
It's an old school Stu video! Working on outboards while hanging over the Hawkesbury.
Great video Stu! I use a Colourtune spark plug mixture tool. It is a spark plug with a glass window so you can see the flame front as it occurs. I suggest when it is hard to decipher if it is spark or mixture it is a great asset. Really useful for two stroke engines, particularly with multiple carburettors. I use it on ultralight aircraft engines, both 2&4 stroke. It gives you a perfect view what the engine is actually doing, rich lean or if there is a problem with blockages it shows you instantly the issue. It comes with mirrors and extensions to make it easier to set up in any awkward position. In regards of the tachometer, there are miniature lcd ones available which have a clip to put on the lead or a length of wire which you wrap a few turns around it. Cost about $30 and most have an hour meter incorporated.
Thanks Kim. Interesting tip about the Colourtune, I had never head of those, I'll have to grab one and give it a try.
Great stuff Stu. Never really understood the why of tuning. Thanks!!
White Ants. Plenty of those mongrels on Dangar. About 45 years ago my old man (a builder) rebuilt a house on Dangar after it was devastated by termites. Keep up the vigil Daffy!
Outboard content! I, for one am quite happy to see this! edit: I've had my boat with a Suzuki d175 on the back for almost four years. I'm hoping to hit ten hours on the clock this year lol
I'm looking forward to doing more outboard stuff again. Time to get those hours up! :)
Mr danger is my go to for how to videos.
Great video Stu, greatly appreciate your efforts in making these, inspires me to have a go and work on my own old boats. Even my Border Collie is now a keen watcher of your videos. He was glued to the TV watching the chickens and parrot at the end of this video and didn’t move and continued to watch as an older video of yours started up.
good stuff and great video, as I have a late 90s grumpy 50hp evinrude, its taken me ages to get it to idle, especially in water, I find mine does stall a bit more in winter than summer though, despite its had a carby clean, new plugs and both carbs tuned. I find I have to change fuel air mixture sometimes between hot and cold weather.
what youve specfied here is great, and I will go have another look at mine again.
i use a Treysit sirometer to check RPM. I love how it works and it never needs a battery.
really good point from 12:00 on, take note people, thanks Dangar
Those insides look just like my 2 stroke 8hp Yamaha. Lol. I always appreciate your videos! Nice to see you and hope all is well in your little part of the world.
Thanks, you too!
Great diagnosis Stu, great Video.
Thanks Wayne!
Stu, some of these carbs the idle mixture screw is actually regulating the air instead of the fuel. So turning the screw in is decreasing the air -> richer mixture and vice versa. Just food for thought.
Extra oil in the mix means less fuel through the jet which causes a lean burn and engine damage as a result.
Even though fuel is big $$ ATM still go with 98 if you can as much as it hurts to fill. Haul out and engine out repair are big bucks…
Coming to you from a local MerCruiser Inboard Re-Conditioner flat out rebuilding engines. Ron
Good quality fuel does always pay dividends in the end.
Most 2 stroke manufacturers recommend adjusting the mixture until highest idle rpm once reached back the mixture screw 1\4 turn (more fuel) reason being a 2 stroke depends on its fuel for lubrication so running at slightly lean or even sm mixture can cause the motor to have a greatly reduced lifespan. Just something to consider.
Saw a peak of Red Dwarf 2! Hope she’s going well!!
She is, thank you Matt! :)
Awesome basic troubleshooting instruction video. Thanks Stu!
Love these vids where you are working off the boat. Love your work boat. I recently acquired a property
On the river here and now have my own dock. I'm looking for
A work boat now. Keep it up buddy. Watching from central Missouri on the Osage River!
I love the trouble shooting process. I never knew the mixing screws had different shapes. Thank you
Awesome Stu, just saw this. Going to bed soon so will watch it tomorrow. Tim
Great video. Complex problems reduced to logical simple procedure to solution.
Thanks mate. The only way to go is to break things down into simple steps.
I experienced this for years on a late 90s 50 Evinrude. Each time i took it to the local marine mechanic somewhere along the way between Berowra and Brooklyn, they came up with a different reason every time i took it back, and never resolved it. It certainly made coming into a wharf interesting and honestly deterred me from wanting to use the boat in the end.
It definitely makes docking a nightmare that's for sure.
Stu good content man. I don't know if the internet will agree but this is the kind of stuff I'd love to see on your channel. Consider a clip on mic for better audio quality. Recording the screen with the PIP while looking at the manual was what I was hoping you'd do. Well done.
Thanks Robert, yes, must get another wireless mic one day.
I like the measuring cup/bottle...
It is pretty cool, saves making any silly mistakes with the quantities.
Stu, you are supported to roll the bottle of thinking juice ,before you open the bottle. To mix it!
Not sure if you can get it where you are but Seafoam does a good job with cleaning carbs on a poorly running motor. I have to admit, it's hit or miss but definitely worth a try for those not mechanically inclined.
Some additives really can work miracles.