Superb video helped me swapping my aluminium freehub for steel one, cheers bud! Struggled with the seal a little bit but I've seen you using hammer and so did I!
Glad it helped, Once you get the hang of it you will get better each time. There is a freehub seal tool available from Hope which I use lot more now. The green seal can be a bit brittle if hit too hard.
This is a very good video. Nice to see a real workshop, and real worn parts unlike manufacturer vids. But sorry, some differences came to mind: Keep wheel on floor, vertically, for forceful loosening of lock ring or cogs. Saves discs, rim damage, etc. Use two chain whips in opposite directions to free the cogs from the grooved hub body….more controllable force than punches or prying (Hope hub bodies tend to pop off when prying cogs, with small parts flying all over the shop). Use old skewer to hold cassette tool in place for initial attempts to loosen lock ring. Unlikely that steel hub bodies will get grooved, so it’s worth the weight for MTB and frequent service. Too much grease or thick oil on pawls cause sticky or failed pawls action, especially in colder temps. Severe problem for winter riding on MTB or Fat Bikes. Loose cogs and overtight lock ring is symptom of inadequate spacing of cassette width and hub body. Like a headset, the cassette must have some flange beyond (or above in the case of a headset) the hub body flange (or head tube in the case of a headset) in order for lock ring to fully hold cogs in place. Loose cogs cause more hub body grooming and failure risk. Use a bit of pvc pipe the same diameter as the hub flange (shielded to protect spoke heads) to balance wheel horizontally with blocks on either side of rim. This saves the disc and stabilizes the wheel for up close work.
Thanks Paul, I believe it's always good to have a little knowledge on bike repairs just incase something goes wrong when you are out on a ride and it needs fixing.
MrDazP1 just a quick update. Got myself a cassette lock ring removal tool and a pair of chain whip pliers (they looked easier to use than a chain whip), and removed the cassette today. I didn’t actually remove the free hub body but I’m going to do that in a day or two. The end caps on mine have two flat sides which, I thought, were to use an open ended spanner to unscrew them, but watching your video, it seems they just pull straight off? Also, what type of grease would you recommend for use in the hub etc? Thanks again for sharing this video. It’s a great sense of achievement doing things yourself 👍
@@MrAnon-2024 Hi Paul , some freehubs are fixed on with a large 14 or 15 mm Allen key fitting within the axle. What make is it ? I tend to use a teflon grease which you can get from most bike outlets. Some have lithium in the mix too..
MrDazP1 MrDazP1 the wheels/hubs are Whyte R7 (2019 Whyte Stirling hybrid) with a Shimano 105 CS-R7000, 11-32, 11 Speed cassette. It doesn’t look like they are held in by Allen keys . I have some Teflon grease (TF2) so should be good 👍
If it is a Hope free hub it should just pull out. The green seal can sometimes make it a bit stubborn. But you need to pull it evenly and straight. If you damage any parts on the assembly they are all individually replaceable from most bike shops. Have you tried some WD40 or maintenance / releasing spray to get in to the spaces. I take it you have the cassette off too. Let me know how you get on.
Alright mate. Good video and very clear. Which hope freehub body was that? Need one for my shimano 11 speed cassette and struggling to find one. Any idea of the cereal number for a 11 one ?
Hello Josh. This is the steel body Hope freehub for a Pro 4 hub. It's also 10 speed compatible with the spacer. www.merlincycles.com/hope-pro-4-replacement-freehub-body-90468.html
Great video! Thank you for all the effort of filming and editing. I was wondering how the steel freehub body is doing 1 year later because some people say the steel is only a bit harder and not as strong as other steel hubs from other brands. I had trouble removing my cassette after the first ride ever. My alluminium freehub body has a bit of wear I was thinking of buying either a cassette with 2 alluminium carriers or a steel freehub body
Thanks for watching and asking the question. The steel freehub body is a slightly heavier but that's a small price to pay. So far mine has done a remarkable job. There are hardly any signs of wear on the notched - profile sections and the bearings are doing well too after a lot winter riding. The lighter alluminium FH bodies suffer from the cassette biting into the material which can make it difficult to remove the sprockets. If you are looking for a more durable and robust drive system I would go for the steel one personally.
@@MrDazP1adv3ntures ahhhh dnt worry few more weeks n al be back on the bike lol been riding my pals bike ok lol nuffin to extreme but just riding abt lol
Tapped it gently with a puch, i call BS. I know those green seals are a bugger to fit and by tapping it hard with a punch it would have gone in but you would have likely damaged it.
Hello Adam, yer they are a bit of a nuisance at times but I did not damage it. In fact they don't seal that great to be honest. I now use the correct tool by Hope for the job which does make life a bit easier. www.amazon.co.uk/HOPE-Cassette-Freehub-Body-HTT1003-06S/dp/B01EVJ4UGK
Superb video helped me swapping my aluminium freehub for steel one, cheers bud! Struggled with the seal a little bit but I've seen you using hammer and so did I!
Glad it helped, Once you get the hang of it you will get better each time. There is a freehub seal tool available from Hope which I use lot more now. The green seal can be a bit brittle if hit too hard.
This is a very good video. Nice to see a real workshop, and real worn parts unlike manufacturer vids. But sorry, some differences came to mind: Keep wheel on floor, vertically, for forceful loosening of lock ring or cogs. Saves discs, rim damage, etc. Use two chain whips in opposite directions to free the cogs from the grooved hub body….more controllable force than punches or prying (Hope hub bodies tend to pop off when prying cogs, with small parts flying all over the shop). Use old skewer to hold cassette tool in place for initial attempts to loosen lock ring. Unlikely that steel hub bodies will get grooved, so it’s worth the weight for MTB and frequent service. Too much grease or thick oil on pawls cause sticky or failed pawls action, especially in colder temps. Severe problem for winter riding on MTB or Fat Bikes. Loose cogs and overtight lock ring is symptom of inadequate spacing of cassette width and hub body. Like a headset, the cassette must have some flange beyond (or above in the case of a headset) the hub body flange (or head tube in the case of a headset) in order for lock ring to fully hold cogs in place. Loose cogs cause more hub body grooming and failure risk. Use a bit of pvc pipe the same diameter as the hub flange (shielded to protect spoke heads) to balance wheel horizontally with blocks on either side of rim. This saves the disc and stabilizes the wheel for up close work.
Thanks Jason.
You made that look easy mate it's not hard when u no what your doin great vid cheers
I've seen you vids in your garage mate. I bet that man cave can keep you happy for hours n" hours .
@@MrDazP1adv3ntures yeah daz it really does keep me outa trouble and into mischief aye I bet your the same mate gotta have a place to tinker
Great video. I love the bike talk videos. Very helpful to people like me with limited knowledge and experience. 👍
Thanks Paul, I believe it's always good to have a little knowledge on bike repairs just incase something goes wrong when you are out on a ride and it needs fixing.
MrDazP1 exactly. I’m learning 😉👍
MrDazP1 just a quick update. Got myself a cassette lock ring removal tool and a pair of chain whip pliers (they looked easier to use than a chain whip), and removed the cassette today. I didn’t actually remove the free hub body but I’m going to do that in a day or two. The end caps on mine have two flat sides which, I thought, were to use an open ended spanner to unscrew them, but watching your video, it seems they just pull straight off? Also, what type of grease would you recommend for use in the hub etc? Thanks again for sharing this video. It’s a great sense of achievement doing things yourself 👍
@@MrAnon-2024 Hi Paul , some freehubs are fixed on with a large 14 or 15 mm Allen key fitting within the axle. What make is it ? I tend to use a teflon grease which you can get from most bike outlets. Some have lithium in the mix too..
MrDazP1 MrDazP1 the wheels/hubs are Whyte R7 (2019 Whyte Stirling hybrid) with a Shimano 105 CS-R7000, 11-32, 11 Speed cassette. It doesn’t look like they are held in by Allen keys . I have some Teflon grease (TF2) so should be good 👍
Great video, thank you.
Thanks Curtis
I can't get the free hub body out. I'm using vice grips and still no luck. It's brand new, never used. Any suggestions??
If it is a Hope free hub it should just pull out. The green seal can sometimes make it a bit stubborn. But you need to pull it evenly and straight. If you damage any parts on the assembly they are all individually replaceable from most bike shops. Have you tried some WD40 or maintenance / releasing spray to get in to the spaces. I take it you have the cassette off too. Let me know how you get on.
loosen the cassette lockring a bit then use the cassette as leverage to get the freehub body out 👍 - then you can take the cassette off after
Alright mate. Good video and very clear. Which hope freehub body was that? Need one for my shimano 11 speed cassette and struggling to find one. Any idea of the cereal number for a 11 one ?
Hello Josh. This is the steel body Hope freehub for a Pro 4 hub. It's also 10 speed compatible with the spacer. www.merlincycles.com/hope-pro-4-replacement-freehub-body-90468.html
Great video! Thank you for all the effort of filming and editing. I was wondering how the steel freehub body is doing 1 year later because some people say the steel is only a bit harder and not as strong as other steel hubs from other brands.
I had trouble removing my cassette after the first ride ever. My alluminium freehub body has a bit of wear
I was thinking of buying either a cassette with 2 alluminium carriers or a steel freehub body
Thanks for watching and asking the question. The steel freehub body is a slightly heavier but that's a small price to pay. So far mine has done a remarkable job. There are hardly any signs of wear on the notched - profile sections and the bearings are doing well too after a lot winter riding. The lighter alluminium FH bodies suffer from the cassette biting into the material which can make it difficult to remove the sprockets. If you are looking for a more durable and robust drive system I would go for the steel one personally.
Can i use a hope freehub with any type of wheel hub, or does it have to be a hope hub?
You will have to use a hope freehub with a hope hub. I'm not sure if different hope hubs are interchangeable with freehubs though.
A gave my cassette a tap from the rear of it with a 8mm allen key tbar lol it done the job
Nice one, they can get well and truly stuck on the Freehub if you are unlucky
@@MrDazP1adv3ntures not been moved in a whole year due to a bad ankle injury
@@MrDazP1adv3ntures plus chamging my bike from 8speed to single speed
Hope you make a full recovery from it buddy and keep the bike well lubed 😁
@@MrDazP1adv3ntures ahhhh dnt worry few more weeks n al be back on the bike lol been riding my pals bike ok lol nuffin to extreme but just riding abt lol
Bravo
Cheers Marco
Please can you help me I can not find a lockring that fits into my hope free hub even a hope lockring doesn't fit and I'm baffled
Is the thread ok. If it's stripped it will keep turning and never tighten. You can buy a replacement Freehub body for about £65
@@MrDazP1adv3ntures I have a brand new freehub I just can't find a lockring that fits what locking are you using its the exact same freehub you have
I am using Shimano components.
Sram are also compatible. What are you running , is it one of these.
Tapped it gently with a puch, i call BS. I know those green seals are a bugger to fit and by tapping it hard with a punch it would have gone in but you would have likely damaged it.
Hello Adam, yer they are a bit of a nuisance at times but I did not damage it. In fact they don't seal that great to be honest. I now use the correct tool by Hope for the job which does make life a bit easier. www.amazon.co.uk/HOPE-Cassette-Freehub-Body-HTT1003-06S/dp/B01EVJ4UGK