Very nicely done and informative video - Thank you. Ovious you have done this a few hundred times. Here are the steps written out for those who might want them. CHECK AND FLATTEN STOCK - LIGHT SANDPAPER CHECK AND FLATTEN PAD - ROUGH THEN LIGHT SANDPAPER CHECK HOLES IN PAD WITH HOLES IN STOCK WITH SCREWS IN PAD CHECK OLD HOLE LOCATION WITH NEW PAD LOCATION MARK HOLE LOCATION AS NEEDED OR USE OLD HOLES DRILL HOLES ATTACH PAD SECURELY CHECK ALIGNMENT SCRIBE CIRCUMFERENCE OF STOCK ON PAD REMOVE PAD FROM STOCK MARK ANGLE OF TOE AND HEEL OF PAD ATTACH JIG TO TOP OF PAD 60 GRIT - GRIND PAD RIGHT UP TO BUT NOT BEYOND SCRIBE LINE CHECK PAD FOR SEPARATION FROM SPACER - RE-GLUE IF NEEDED CHECK/PRE-FIT PAD TO STOCK 120 GRIT WET GRIND - USE WD40 220 GRIT WET GRIND - USE WD 40 WASH WITH SOAP AND WATER QC AND POLISH SPACER WITH 3M PAD AS NEEDED ATTACH PAD TO GUN WAX SEEM OF PAD AND GUN AND POLISH DONE
Impressive to watch a craftsman do this job. A general handyman like myself that doesn't have the tools like Dana uses and would need to improvise. I was going to buy the recoil pad but don't have the skill set to grind away and shape the pad.
Great work! Thanks. Does it help to put the limbsaver into the freezer before? Could you write one more time the grit of the belts, that You have used?
This was a joy to watch. Thank you sir for letting me watch you at work. What is your experience on longevity of these pads? I have two installed for over 15 years now and both are kind of melting.
You have to consider that WD-40 is actually a SOLVENT. Unfortunately, due to the actual chemical composition of this type of recoil pad, compounds of this variety do not have undying longevity. It is touted a 'black rubber' in many advertisements, but it is actually a polymer known as NAVCOM™. Attempts to obtain specific chemical analysis have been futile. Now, I have a 70 year old vintage 'rubber' recoil pad that has a 3/16" thick mounting plate, and 1/4" pad, which is now basically 'totally cured' with almost NO compression ability left in the pad, whatsoever! Thankfully, it's a very low caliber with a recoil factor of around 8.9. Nowhere near my 7mm Rem Mag with a recoil factor of 24.3! The 'melting' you've mentioned COULD be due to WD-40 (if utilized during the grind process) that permeated the recoil pad, and worked at it over time, slowly destroying it. But, THAT's purely speculation.
@@falconeddymastering5347 I'd say that was a pretty educated guess. I would have never thought of using WD-40 on a recoil pad and the long-term repercussions of doing so, could be exactly what you describe.
I bought this recoil pad for my Remmington 700 BDL as it was advertised to be a precision fit but it is nowhere close. I bought this gun 25 years ago. Do you have a recommendation? Limbsaver Airtech Black Precision Fit Recoil Pad #10805
Dee Winn I never had any luck with the Precision Fit recoil pads all the ones I ever got Never Fit to always wound up going to gunsmith having one installed unless you have all the grinding equipment
Hi Dee, Sorry to hear about that! Wood stocks, especially from certain manufacturers, can vary wildly over the years. Check out our recoil pad template guide at www.limbsaver.com or give us a call at 360-427-6031and we would be happy to check on the fit for you. Thanks, LimbSaver Social
hey guys, word to the wise this takes time. The video cuts a bit and it is subtle. Once you buckle up to do this make sure you give yourself time, and prepare to clean up a mess. The little black bits get everywhere!
That's nice work! I've gotta do something myself. I've got some Winchesters in 45-70 that have the cresent buttstock, and I'll tell you what, after just shooting 1 box of ammo, it looks like someone took a sledge hammer to my shoulder. Is there a way to install a pad system like this to my cresent stocks? Without sanding them flat? Thanks
Hi there Ole Ironhead, you can try out one of our slip-on recoil pads if grinding the stock isn't an option. They work great, and they slide on and off. Let us know what you end up doing. -LS
Ok, I'm trying to do this and the rubber just gets torn up. I have tried freezing it as well and it still didn't work. I used an 80grit belt for initial cutdown, then a 120grit belt to fine tune. I'm then stuck after that as I can't buy any belts lower than 120 grit. I tried some hand sanding with 220grit and 350grit, but still just wasn't doing well and doesn't look great
+Armistice023 Hi there, sorry you are having some difficulty with grinding your recoil pad. Depending upon the type of sander you have, you might not be able to get the necessary belts to grind properly. Sanding 220/350 grit belts may take too long, and may gum up the belt and can produce some undesirable effects, probably not unlike what you are experiencing. Without knowing which belt sander that you are using, it would be difficult for us to recommend a belt supplier. Also, when using the lubricant like WD40, more is always better... It is also messier, so wear your safety glasses. Let me know if I can help you with anything else.
The whole pad (hard plastic base AND foam pad can be ground. There is a line in the plastic running around the circumference on the plastic base that can be ground to. You'd think this stuff would be in a video by the company.
Hi there, we offer recoil pads for many makes and models, not just universal grind-to-fit recoil pads. Head on over to our website and check out our recoil pad template guide. Chances are that we might have exactly what you are looking for. Let us know if we can help you with anything else.
This video would have been more helpful if time would have been spent showing the proper way to measure the butt end of the stock so as to order the correct size pad.
I see you have WD 40.. look it up under google what it means.. states a solvent.. you may want to switch to a regular oil.. just a thought... a solvent break down a rubber.. like a recoil pad?
@@6h471 Of course there is Pete. The main chemical listed in the WD-40 MSDS IS the solvent, Aliphatic Hydrocarbon, which comprises around 70% +/- of the total compound. The rest is basically light weight petroleum oil, and about 2% CO2 for a propellant. I'm retired, but definitely earned the double Masters I received at MIT many years ago. This information is accurate.
so you don't cut the stock down to take care of for the added length of the recoil pad you just put a recoil pad on an existing stock and make it really the customer didn't ask for a longer stock that is to ask for a recoil Patso if you ask me you're not doing the customer favorite you're doing them a disservice you're making the stock the stockthat's not what they ask for they ask for a recall pet they didn't ask for a longer stock
You don't know what was discussed with the customer. It had a pad to start with, hence the screw holes already in the stock, so any difference in thickness is likely negligible. Quit being an ass.
What a quality job done. No matter how technologically advance we become, we can never replace the hands of a crafts man.
Very nicely done and informative video - Thank you.
Ovious you have done this a few hundred times.
Here are the steps written out for those who might want them.
CHECK AND FLATTEN STOCK - LIGHT SANDPAPER
CHECK AND FLATTEN PAD - ROUGH THEN LIGHT SANDPAPER
CHECK HOLES IN PAD WITH HOLES IN STOCK WITH SCREWS IN PAD
CHECK OLD HOLE LOCATION WITH NEW PAD LOCATION
MARK HOLE LOCATION AS NEEDED OR USE OLD HOLES
DRILL HOLES
ATTACH PAD SECURELY
CHECK ALIGNMENT
SCRIBE CIRCUMFERENCE OF STOCK ON PAD
REMOVE PAD FROM STOCK
MARK ANGLE OF TOE AND HEEL OF PAD
ATTACH JIG TO TOP OF PAD
60 GRIT - GRIND PAD RIGHT UP TO BUT NOT BEYOND SCRIBE LINE
CHECK PAD FOR SEPARATION FROM SPACER - RE-GLUE IF NEEDED
CHECK/PRE-FIT PAD TO STOCK
120 GRIT WET GRIND - USE WD40
220 GRIT WET GRIND - USE WD 40
WASH WITH SOAP AND WATER
QC AND POLISH SPACER WITH 3M PAD AS NEEDED
ATTACH PAD TO GUN
WAX SEEM OF PAD AND GUN AND POLISH
DONE
Awesome comment!!! Thank you 🙏
Impressive to watch a craftsman do this job. A general handyman like myself that doesn't have the tools like Dana uses and would need to improvise. I was going to buy the recoil pad but don't have the skill set to grind away and shape the pad.
Limbsaver continues to impress. Quality work!!
Very, very nice! Thanks for taking the time to make this!
Thank you. I followed your advice and my first try came out pretty well.
Wonderful explanation and demonstration! Thank you!
Great video! Looking to get one of these for my shotgun. Thanks for showing the detailed process!
Great video. Even better work.
Can you send your rifle to LimbSaver and have Dana install the recoil pad?
Great work! Thanks. Does it help to put the limbsaver into the freezer before? Could you write one more time the grit of the belts, that You have used?
quality work
this guy is an artist, #pro
Dana is the best in the west! (And probably the east, too!)
-LS
This was a joy to watch. Thank you sir for letting me watch you at work. What is your experience on longevity of these pads? I have two installed for over 15 years now and both are kind of melting.
You have to consider that WD-40 is actually a SOLVENT. Unfortunately, due to the actual chemical composition of this type of recoil pad, compounds of this variety do not have undying longevity. It is touted a 'black rubber' in many advertisements, but it is actually a polymer known as NAVCOM™. Attempts to obtain specific chemical analysis have been futile. Now, I have a 70 year old vintage 'rubber' recoil pad that has a 3/16" thick mounting plate, and 1/4" pad, which is now basically 'totally cured' with almost NO compression ability left in the pad, whatsoever! Thankfully, it's a very low caliber with a recoil factor of around 8.9. Nowhere near my 7mm Rem Mag with a recoil factor of 24.3! The 'melting' you've mentioned COULD be due to WD-40 (if utilized during the grind process) that permeated the recoil pad, and worked at it over time, slowly destroying it. But, THAT's purely speculation.
@@falconeddymastering5347 I'd say that was a pretty educated guess. I would have never thought of using WD-40 on a recoil pad and the long-term repercussions of doing so, could be exactly what you describe.
Well... I was interested in this but it got complicated real quick and I don't have the tools for that. I think I'll just buy the slip on pad.
Do you make a precision fit limbsaver recoil pad for the Bergara B14 timber (wooded stock) chambered in 300 win mag? Thanks
is there anyway to do this without a belt sander?
What is the distance between the two screw holes?
I bought this recoil pad for my Remmington 700 BDL as it was advertised to be a precision fit but it is nowhere close. I bought this gun 25 years ago. Do you have a recommendation?
Limbsaver Airtech Black Precision Fit Recoil Pad #10805
Dee Winn I never had any luck with the Precision Fit recoil pads all the ones I ever got Never Fit to always wound up going to gunsmith having one installed unless you have all the grinding equipment
Hi Dee,
Sorry to hear about that! Wood stocks, especially from certain manufacturers, can vary wildly over the years. Check out our recoil pad template guide at www.limbsaver.com or give us a call at 360-427-6031and we would be happy to check on the fit for you.
Thanks,
LimbSaver Social
hey guys, word to the wise this takes time. The video cuts a bit and it is subtle. Once you buckle up to do this make sure you give yourself time, and prepare to clean up a mess. The little black bits get everywhere!
That's nice work! I've gotta do something myself. I've got some Winchesters in 45-70 that have the cresent buttstock, and I'll tell you what, after just shooting 1 box of ammo, it looks like someone took a sledge hammer to my shoulder. Is there a way to install a pad system like this to my cresent stocks? Without sanding them flat? Thanks
Hi there Ole Ironhead,
you can try out one of our slip-on recoil pads if grinding the stock isn't an option. They work great, and they slide on and off. Let us know what you end up doing.
-LS
Ok, I'm trying to do this and the rubber just gets torn up. I have tried freezing it as well and it still didn't work. I used an 80grit belt for initial cutdown, then a 120grit belt to fine tune. I'm then stuck after that as I can't buy any belts lower than 120 grit. I tried some hand sanding with 220grit and 350grit, but still just wasn't doing well and doesn't look great
+Armistice023 Hi there, sorry you are having some difficulty with grinding your recoil pad. Depending upon the type of sander you have, you might not be able to get the necessary belts to grind properly. Sanding 220/350 grit belts may take too long, and may gum up the belt and can produce some undesirable effects, probably not unlike what you are experiencing. Without knowing which belt sander that you are using, it would be difficult for us to recommend a belt supplier.
Also, when using the lubricant like WD40, more is always better... It is also messier, so wear your safety glasses.
Let me know if I can help you with anything else.
+LimbSaver Ryobi with a 3" wide belt that is 8" long one way
why wouldn't you tape around the stock b4 you scribe to prevent marring the stock.??
This guy totally sounds like Chris Farley in Tommy Boy.
I got cat-like speed and reflexes!
The whole pad (hard plastic base AND foam pad can be ground. There is a line in the plastic running around the circumference on the plastic base that can be ground to. You'd think this stuff would be in a video by the company.
All I need now is 1000.00 worth of tools...or a smith lol
You could literally just make the holes in the limb saver longer with a knife or other tool so it is adjustable, use the stock holes and screws, done.
I wished you guys made pads that specifically fit a particular stock instead of this universal crap where you need specialty tools to get it to fit.
Hi there, we offer recoil pads for many makes and models, not just universal grind-to-fit recoil pads. Head on over to our website and check out our recoil pad template guide. Chances are that we might have exactly what you are looking for. Let us know if we can help you with anything else.
They do. Literally dozens of models.
This video would have been more helpful if time would have been spent showing the proper way to measure the butt end of the stock so as to order the correct size pad.
I have done very similar with Woodglut designs.
I see you have WD 40.. look it up under google what it means.. states a solvent.. you may want to switch to a regular oil.. just a thought...
a solvent break down a rubber.. like a recoil pad?
There's nothing in the WD40 MSD sheet about solvent. Where do you people get this nonsense?
@@6h471 Of course there is Pete. The main chemical listed in the WD-40 MSDS IS the solvent, Aliphatic Hydrocarbon, which comprises around 70% +/- of the total compound. The rest is basically light weight petroleum oil, and about 2% CO2 for a propellant. I'm retired, but definitely earned the double Masters I received at MIT many years ago. This information is accurate.
so you don't cut the stock down to take care of for the added length of the recoil pad you just put a recoil pad on an existing stock and make it really the customer didn't ask for a longer stock that is to ask for a recoil Patso if you ask me you're not doing the customer favorite you're doing them a disservice you're making the stock the stockthat's not what they ask for they ask for a recall pet they didn't ask for a longer stock
You don't know what was discussed with the customer. It had a pad to start with, hence the screw holes already in the stock, so any difference in thickness is likely negligible. Quit being an ass.