I'm a gunsmith student, nice video...professionally done. I liked the attention to detail in ensuring the wood in the drilled recess was protected with Tru Oil.Thanks.
Great "how-to" video! You've answered a lot of questions I had on how to do it myself. One question though......What size of tap do you use to thread the hole?
I'm not surprised, It's one of those items that you don't sell a lot of. I haven't checked lately but I don't know that they are building much of anything.
I have a new 1897 Cimarron Arms Reproduction 12 gauge shotgun (20" barrel") and I have just bought a new 1-1/4" leather sling. I can understand, from your video, how to install the butt swivel, but the forward one has to be attached to either the barrel or the magazine tube with a split band type device (or replace the existing end cap on the tube) to hold the sling swivel. Not sure how to proceed with this. Also you placed some sealer in the drilled hole in the butt. What is this sealer? Dan
Hi Dan: You will need to use a barrel band as you have already stated. Depending on your preferences, if you are going to sling it barrel up or down, and your height you can attach it to either the magazine tube or the barrel, The sealer is tru-oil but any sealer can be used, just used to protect the stock from moisture in the tapped area.
I have a Ruger with rubber/ composite stock and it has u shaped hangers that are attached to the sides? so do the same thing after removing the hangers? Thanks for any advice
@@hillsgun is it will effecting magazine cycle the cartridges to receiver if we drill up the magazine tube cap and install the stud on it? Is the magazine cycle normally after doing like your video. Anyway, great video and hope you answer my question soon...
@@hillsgun my shotgun is Winchester SX4. But, the magazine cap doesn't have the stud for install slings. After viewing your video, I think to drill the magazine cap similar as you do. Than, no need to buy the new magazine cap with the stud that already originally install in it. Besides that, I'm not confident to do so. Because, fear that it will be effected the magazine to cycle reload through receiver. What's your opinion about this?
process is the same for any stock. the differences you may encounter with a synthetic stock is the nut used on the stud for the forend may have to be epoxied in place to hold it in position and provide support on the inside of he stock if it is hollow and on rare ocassions I have had to add material (usually a wooden block) on the inside at the butt for the same reason. Hope this helps.
Hi there. Good video and perfect advice for my project of adding a sling mount to my Mossberg 500 with wood stock. When drilling the butt stock do you drill 90 degrees to the butt plate or to the bottom edge of the stock? Thank you.
90 degrees to the bottom edge of the stock. The flat on the base of the stud (between the threads and the attach point for the swivel) should always be flat to the stock.
I normally prefer to contour a hardwood insert to fit in the botton of the stock where the stud installs and epoxy it in place so I can use a standard wood screw style stud. Be sure to either encapusalate the insert in epoxy or use some sort of sealer or finish to prevent the possibility of it absorbing moisture.
I bought a Ruger 10/22 Deluxe Sporter awhile back. Decided I didn't like the factory fixed sling swivels and that I wanted to replace them with QD swivels. Bought a set of Uncle Mike's QD swivels, removed the factory swivels and ran into a small problem. I can't get the rear one "clocked" correctly, if that makes sense. What I'm trying to say is that when the swivel stud is tight, the hole in the stud runs parallel with the stock and I feel like turning it another 1/4 turn will strip or crack the stock. Tried both with and without the washer with same result. How would you remedy this?
you can slightly counterbore the stock to get the stud indexed correctly, just be sure not to tighten it to tight on the wood or you will crush it and it looks like crap. I think I show it in the video but I have a counterbore that slightly flattens the curve of the stock for the shoulder of the stud to set on and allows me to index the stud. Also do not counterbore it to deep or the swivel where it connects to the stud will contact the wood and mark it. Good luck, Dan.
I use tru oil . you just want to seal the wood so that moisture hopefully doesn't penetrate the stock. any sealer will work but tru oil is one of the normal finishes that is always at my bench.
Personal choice. I do them with white,black,or no spacer. This particular stock is plain and has no white line on the pad so it looks best with no spacer.
I have a Remington 870 express super mag with a synthetic stock. Can I drill the back mount with my synthetic stock? I heard that there might be issues if the stock is hollow (I'm not sure whether that's the case). Also, would you recommend using glue to secure the back mount? If so, what type of glue would you recommend? Thanks!
When I made this video I had the apparently mistaken expectation that if you have the ability to safely drill into a stock of a gun potentially worth hundreds or even thousands of dollars you would have the basic cognitive skills to at least ascertain the size of a drill bit.
Or you could address the correct size bits vs mistakes others have made in the past- and the importance of correct bit sizes. I think the question is valid. Especially for newer DIYers. I’m sure you were green at a place in time in the past. Better to make friends than not.
Eyeballing center is indeed “Properly”. If you were to take the time to look at a variety of stocks you will find that none are symmetrical so there is no true reference to measure from. The proper way is to eyeball them so the stud is centered at the peak
think ima just screw it in, why watse money on all these fancy tools if I'm doing this once? and i'll be damned if im going to pay a gun smith to do something so simple. I respect your craft, but for a normal person. drill hole, put stud in.
I'm a gunsmith student, nice video...professionally done. I liked the attention to detail in ensuring the wood in the drilled recess was protected with Tru Oil.Thanks.
Glad to help. Thanks
Watched over a dozen videos on this subject and yours is by far the very best. Thank you for the
excellent how to video.
Roger Wells - California
Thank you Roger, I appreciate that. Dan
Perfect. Thanks. Only video i found for that silly magazine cap. Awesome. 👍
Thanks, Glad I could help, Dan.
Always awesome to see an expert craftsman at work. Awesome video thanks so much for sharing your knowledge!
You are certainly welcome. Thank you
I checked out your jig and I made one myself worked great
Glad it was helpful
You are certainly welcome, Glad I could help.
Great "how-to" video! You've answered a lot of questions I had on how to do it myself. One question though......What size of tap do you use to thread the hole?
the tap matches the stud, I custom build them for the sling swivel studs
just wanted to say thanks for showing how it do it correctly.
Thank you, My pleasure
Great video. Just FYI, B-Square no longer makes their stud drilling jig, so some slow day you may wanna make a couple dozen and sell ‘em.
I'm not surprised, It's one of those items that you don't sell a lot of. I haven't checked lately but I don't know that they are building much of anything.
You sir are definitely the cat's meow. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you,my pleasure.
Thank you for showing just how that is done. Now I can move ahead armed (ha) with the knowledge I need to put a sling on my shotgun.
Scott Taylor you are welcome
I have a new 1897 Cimarron Arms Reproduction 12 gauge shotgun (20" barrel") and I have just bought a new 1-1/4" leather sling. I can understand, from your video, how to install the butt swivel, but the forward one has to be attached to either the barrel or the magazine tube with a split band type device (or replace the existing end cap on the tube) to hold the sling swivel. Not sure how to proceed with this. Also you placed some sealer in the drilled hole in the butt. What is this sealer?
Dan
Hi Dan: You will need to use a barrel band as you have already stated. Depending on your preferences, if you are going to sling it barrel up or down, and your height you can attach it to either the magazine tube or the barrel, The sealer is tru-oil but any sealer can be used, just used to protect the stock from moisture in the tapped area.
Awesome video Thank you for sharing this information helped a lot.
You are welcome, Thanks
Thanks, very well done; nice to watch a professional at work!
thank you, I appreciate it.
I have a Ruger with rubber/ composite stock and it has u shaped hangers that are attached to the sides? so do the same thing after removing the hangers? Thanks for any advice
Yes the same process applies, but it is sometimes necessary to install a reinforcement block or nut inside the stock.
Exactly the information I needed. Thank you!
glad I could help, Thanks.
@@hillsgun is it will effecting magazine cycle the cartridges to receiver if we drill up the magazine tube cap and install the stud on it? Is the magazine cycle normally after doing like your video. Anyway, great video and hope you answer my question soon...
@@materazipelates if you are installing directly into the magazine cap it will work fine.
@@hillsgun my shotgun is Winchester SX4. But, the magazine cap doesn't have the stud for install slings. After viewing your video, I think to drill the magazine cap similar as you do. Than, no need to buy the new magazine cap with the stud that already originally install in it. Besides that, I'm not confident to do so. Because, fear that it will be effected the magazine to cycle reload through receiver. What's your opinion about this?
@@materazipelates The gun will still cycle fine, the cap itself only holds everything together and has no affect on the guns function.
Greetings Hillsgun,
I have a Remington 783 (.308) and am wondering if the process is similar on a non wooden stock?
Thanks,
- M
process is the same for any stock. the differences you may encounter with a synthetic stock is the nut used on the stud for the forend may have to be epoxied in place to hold it in position and provide support on the inside of he stock if it is hollow and on rare ocassions I have had to add material (usually a wooden block) on the inside at the butt for the same reason. Hope this helps.
Thanks. I was able to do my 870 after watching your video
Great video, thanks for sharing.
my pleasure
Hi there. Good video and perfect advice for my project of adding a sling mount to my Mossberg 500 with wood stock. When drilling the butt stock do you drill 90 degrees to the butt plate or to the bottom edge of the stock? Thank you.
90 degrees to the bottom edge of the stock. The flat on the base of the stud (between the threads and the attach point for the swivel) should always be flat to the stock.
Thanks for making this video, very helpful
My pleasure, thanks
What about on a synthetic shot gun stock? Machine screw thread stud?? My turkey gun needs a stud. Thanks.
I normally prefer to contour a hardwood insert to fit in the botton of the stock where the stud installs and epoxy it in place so I can use a standard wood screw style stud. Be sure to either encapusalate the insert in epoxy or use some sort of sealer or finish to prevent the possibility of it absorbing moisture.
Made it look easy.
thats because I have done it a few hundred times over the years, Thanks. Dan
I bought a Ruger 10/22 Deluxe Sporter awhile back. Decided I didn't like the factory fixed sling swivels and that I wanted to replace them with QD swivels. Bought a set of Uncle Mike's QD swivels, removed the factory swivels and ran into a small problem. I can't get the rear one "clocked" correctly, if that makes sense. What I'm trying to say is that when the swivel stud is tight, the hole in the stud runs parallel with the stock and I feel like turning it another 1/4 turn will strip or crack the stock. Tried both with and without the washer with same result. How would you remedy this?
you can slightly counterbore the stock to get the stud indexed correctly, just be sure not to tighten it to tight on the wood or you will crush it and it looks like crap. I think I show it in the video but I have a counterbore that slightly flattens the curve of the stock for the shoulder of the stud to set on and allows me to index the stud. Also do not counterbore it to deep or the swivel where it connects to the stud will contact the wood and mark it. Good luck, Dan.
Great job
thanks, I appreciate it,
What is that sealant you use to seal the threads?
I use tru oil . you just want to seal the wood so that moisture hopefully doesn't penetrate the stock. any sealer will work but tru oil is one of the normal finishes that is always at my bench.
Looks so easy when u doing it 👍
Done it once or twice, thanks.
What is the drill bit size for butt stock stud ?
You will have to make that decision based on who the manufacturer of the stud is, I know of at least three different sizes.
A very good info... to from Malaysia
Thank you
Appreciate the video!
thank you, you are certainly welcome.
Why they no color spacer to somewhat match stock ?
Personal choice. I do them with white,black,or no spacer. This particular stock is plain and has no white line on the pad so it looks best with no spacer.
I have a Remington 870 express super mag with a synthetic stock. Can I drill the back mount with my synthetic stock? I heard that there might be issues if the stock is hollow (I'm not sure whether that's the case). Also, would you recommend using glue to secure the back mount? If so, what type of glue would you recommend? Thanks!
On the hollow stocks I usually install a hardwood insert into the stock where the stud will go and encapsulate it in epoxy
@@hillsgun Thanks for the help sir! Great video too!
@@joepass87 you are welcome, Thanks.
Good video
K Coman thank you 😊
@@hillsgun thank you but you're welcome
Thank you !!
You are welcome. Thanks, Dan.
Muy professional
thank you.
Thanks 👍👍👍
my pleasure
Good, thanks.
my pleasure
nice
Didn’t even say what size bits to use 🙄
When I made this video I had the apparently mistaken expectation that if you have the ability to safely drill into a stock of a gun potentially worth hundreds or even thousands of dollars you would have the basic cognitive skills to at least ascertain the size of a drill bit.
Or you could address the correct size bits vs mistakes others have made in the past- and the importance of correct bit sizes. I think the question is valid. Especially for newer DIYers. I’m sure you were green at a place in time in the past.
Better to make friends than not.
Eyeballing center is not "Properly".
Eyeballing center is indeed “Properly”. If you were to take the time to look at a variety of stocks you will find that none are symmetrical so there is no true reference to measure from. The proper way is to eyeball them so the stud is centered at the peak
@@hillsgun always an "arm chair expert " to help ......
think ima just screw it in, why watse money on all these fancy tools if I'm doing this once? and i'll be damned if im going to pay a gun smith to do something so simple.
I respect your craft, but for a normal person. drill hole, put stud in.
absolutly right, why would you want to do it properly. for a "normal" person why reach for anything above mediocrity.
@@hillsgun I’m just not interested in spending a bunch of money on specialty tools when I’m not a gun smith