OM642 (oil cooler leak fix 10) Reinstall intake manifolds, fuel filter, EGR mixer and turbo + start
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.ย. 2024
- Re-installation of intake manifolds, fuel filter, EGR mixer and turbo on a 2009 Mercedes E320 Bluetec with OM642 V6 diesel engine in order to fix leaking oil cooler seals. At the end of this video, we successfully start the engine. This is the 10th video of a series of oil cooler leak fix job: see the playlist to watch them in order (videos are also numbered in the title)
Just done my Jeep Grand Cherokee. Turbo is absolutely hell. No space to work. Big thank you for your video. Very useful. Watch few times. Great job👍
Glad it was useful to you. Thank you for the feedback!
I know what you mean,,, Almost easier to remove engine/ transmission together,,,
Great job with these videos. They will be extremely helpful for a lot of people.
Thank you for your feedback!
Thank you,for all the torque settings I’ve used from your video,good job🙏🏻👍
Glad it was helpful! Appreciate the feedback
So pleased you showed the EGR cooler O ring and gasket being replaced (0.08), most don`t show it but it`s vital to replace that O ring. I had to do the job you`ve just done not to replace the oil cooler seals (of course i did those anyway) but to replace that O ring where the EGR connects it`s water gallery to the inlet manifold. It`s failure produced a massive water leak which went from a few drips to not being able to keep coolant in the engine at all in a week. This was om642 in Jeep Grand Cherokee which was a complete bastard to just get the turbo off. (no room for tools between the firewall and engine) Got it done in the end but took 3 days. 1 whole day just to remove the turbo,,, Lots of blood on Knuckles,,,
Appreciate the feedback! The turbo removal on this car was a pain too. Very little room to work. It was the hardest part to do
Many thanks for all your video's. I just completed the same job, completely based on your videos!!! Many thanks, your efforts for uploading are much appriciated!! Kind regards from the netherlands!
Graag gedaan! I am glad the videos were helpful
Thank you for this video! Right in the spot!
I am glad it was useful to you!
Hi ,
Excellent video very clear and precise, I'm doing my 2009 cls 350 at the moment and looking at various videos to help me,others have quoted different torque values for example inlet manifold bolts being 16nm and 2e45 turbo to pedastol being 20nm then stage2 being 60 degree angle, your video is the most recent I have watched so may have updated values I would be grateful if you can confirm this,once again thanks for uploading excellent video's
Thanks Drew
Thank you, I appreciate the feedback! The torque settings I used came from an official repair manual (I think WIS manual). I am including a link here that has individual PDF files for different parts of the job. There are around 20 files. They are for the OM642 engine (but not an E320). I did not see a stage 2 on the pedestal but its possible I overlooked something. I did see s stage 2 on some of the exhaust/turbo bolts. So to confirm torques, I suggest please take a look (look inside the listed PDF files) in the link and please leave a comment if I did something wrong: mbworld.org/forums/m-class-w164/742069-instructions-replacing-oil-cooler-seals.html
EDIT: I looked and there is indeed a stage 2 on the top T45 bolts that mount the turbo to the pedestal. Thank you for pointing this out!. Luckily they are right on top and I can easily still do the stage 2
Hi, thanks for replying,I find the description of parts a bit confusing me not being a qualified mechanic,am I reading it correctly when thinking the 4 pedastol bolts to oil feed supply are 20nm +60degree turn and 2 turbo to oil feed bolts supply are 20nm+90degree turn . thanks for your help, Drew
The connection of the pedestal to crankcase is in document 13 (13. Remove-install oil supply connection fitting of turbocharger) . You'll see there is no stage 2. Bolt, oil supply connection fitting to crankcase is 20 Nm (no extra angle). Mounting the turbo to the pedestal is in document 11 (remove turbocharger). The top T45 go to 20 NM + 60 degree stage 2, this is the stage 2 i overlooked but can be still done from top (Fit bolt, turbocharger to oil supply connection fitting). The other one with a stage 2 on the turbo itself is: turbocharger to exhaust collector pipe bolt on bottom. I didn't remove the exhaust collector in my video but this is the pipe that splits in two, each piece going into one of the exhaust pipes. Several pipes that route exhaust have a stage 2.
Thanks for the clarification . Drew
I download manual and it's a say intake manifold 16 Nm , Turbo to pedestal 30 Nm . I torque 30 Nm turbo charger to pedestal and I have a oil leak and then I make around 40 Nm . I was feeling like bolts was stretching but there was no oil leak . This two bolts is 8mm class 10.9 . Recommended torque 30÷ 40 Nm and intake manifold bolts are 6mm clas 8.8 .Rrecommend torque is 12÷16 Nm . For 6mm is not recommended 18 Nm . So now I'm a little bit confused and I have to do torque them tomorrow .
Thank you for your videos did this job 2 years ago. Torqued everything to spec cleaned up the holes where the screws go in. Now 2 years after it started leaking again. I put the car for sale... OM642 and M57 from BMW are my fav diesel engines. But this oil cooler problem is such bad engineering. It will leak again and again it's just to much temperature at the place where mercedes placed it. I will miss my car
Well, I’ll do this again if I have to. I think I can do it faster next time. Thanks for watching
@@DIY-VIDEOS how much hours does it take you to get the job done?
I took me over 30 hours. I did a few hours at the time over many days. But I took my time with it and it was not just the oil cooler, the swirl flaps were bad too and lots of cleaning was needed
Одличан видео и посао,хвала вам много
Thank you!
Well done!
Thank you!
What size pipes are used for the fuel? I need to replace one, I think it’s the same size as the right fuel filter pipe
Sorry I am not sure. I was able to reuse them
Nice video, what kind of seal or scrubs kit would you recommend to chang, when removing manifold?
Thank you! I used a kit from idparts that came with almost all seals and gaskets needed. There are other places too that sell kits for the OM642. The one I used includes things for the oil cooler leak (not just manifolds). Here is the link for what I used: www.idparts.com/oil-cooler-seal-kit-om642-6421880480-p-5146.html
Why not use antseize at each screw? The little bent pipe bow to the EGR valve: instead of gaskets maybe blind covers would have been better. Your motor will appreciate it.
I thought about using the anti seize on all the bolts that get hot and maybe that’s a good idea but unsure about the torque (they say you need to apply extra when using anti seize ) so I only ended up using it on the ones that were reallyhard to get out. Appreciate the comment
I believe you can let the lift pump prime the fuel system. i do this after fuel filter changes.
I believe that is correct. Other than turning the ignition to on a few times, I didn’t do anything special to prime even though the filter and rails were empty. When I turned the ignition switch to the on position the first time I could hear the filter filling up
Good afternoon, please tell me at the beginning of work, did you drain the oil and antifreeze?
No, I did not. No oil was lost at all so I don't think you need to drain the oil although it is recommended you drain both. Antifreeze did come out when I disconnected the water line at the top near the thermostat. So in retrospect I would probably drain the coolant when doing this again but I don't see any urgent reason to drain the oil for this job.
@@DIY-VIDEOS Thanks a lot
What workshop manual you use for this?
I found the (WIS I believe it is called) on a forum here:
mbworld.org/forums/m-class-w164/742069-instructions-replacing-oil-cooler-seals.html
Hello, I’ve done everything but my car dosent does not accelerate, starts but only accelerates to 1,500rpm
It sounds like it’s in limp mode. Is the check engine light on? If so I would suggest getting an OBD2 scanner and reading any fault codes
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