@@danieleriksson1657 You will clean the intake manifolds outside of the vehicle. In order to clean the intake valve ports rotate the crankshaft pulley and make sure to clean the ports with closed valves only. If you don't you will wash all the mess inside the engine which can cause catastrophic engine failure.
Wow, you really know what you are doing. Especially taking the time to clean everything and work on a proper way. That makes a good mechanic and craftsman!
I did this job myself after being inspired by your video. Thanks To anyone planning on doing this job, also change the swirl flap motor and runner rods. I had to do it again as the motor failed 2 weeks after.
Mercedes main dealer in Oxford quoted me £1700 to do this job a couple of years ago, which I couldn’t really afford being a pensioner so I had a so called mercedes specialist do it for half that price, but low and behold it’s needs doing again obviously wasn’t much of a specialist 🤷♂️now that I’ve watched your video on how it’s done I can see why it cost so much, nice job and a great video cheers 👍👍👍
Definitely the best video I've ever seen. This morning I started the job on my E320 W211 to change the oil cooler seals. In the afternoon I 've found your video on youtube. I feel very lucky to found this, I'm sure that I will not have any problem with the job seeng your video. Thank you for your perfect video.
@@rayyanbhayat2234 Thank you buddy, this means a lot coming from a MB technician. Glad to hear you like the video and rate it high. Have a lovely day buddy🤝🏻
@@TheKeenMechanic only thing i do different to you is take the panels at the top wipers wiper motor etc so easier to access turbo bolts etc. Liferally takes 15 mins extra to take all that off!!
@@rayyanbhayat2234 I would take your advice as I did find it very hard to access the back of the turbo. I have heard other people doing the same as you. Thanks for the tip and for tuning in🤝🏻
I did this job on my 2008 W211 E320 V6 Diesel (Bluetec) 169 thousand km, the top manifolds were so gunked up that i just ordered a new set, i also replaced the swirl flap motor with a new Trubo actuator. The hardest part about this job is connecting the swirl flap actuator motor to both manifolds, that was a nightmare clipping in those plastic flap inserts 😂 Now i am dealing with small gasket leaks here and there on the car nothing major, but i am happy i did this job on the car. I also replaced the waterpump and the Oil filter housing gasket. It's a very beautiful solid engije, but just like with anything else in life, it will need maintenance. Great video!
@@markamd1 Thank you for watching. Glad to hear you got the job done and that you found my tutorial useful. E class is a bit easier to work on, MLs are back breakers🤝🏻
A great video on the changing of the oil cooler seals. It seems insane how much work is involved in changing two seals. I have this job to do on a friends ML in a few months. I have sent him a link to the video just to let him see how much work is involved
Awesome! I just finished this job on my 07 r320. I used awesome cleaner and brushes from harbor freight to clean the intakes and any black death. Melts it instantly.
Nice one, thanks for sharing. Some people also use pure caustic and steep them but I found my method is also as good and a bit cost effective. Thanks for watching
Hello Mr. Keen, and thank you for a very good step-by-step video! I am about to do this job on my 06/07 280 ML, and have a couple of questions. I have 2 fault codes, and the car goes into limp mode. I use an iCarsoft OBD reader. The codes are: 2511-1 Check component Y27/9 (Left EGR Positioner). And 2355-2 Check system "Exhaust gas recirculation control". The air mass is to large. At first I took it for granted that the EGR valve vas stuck, and took it out for cleaning. But it looked quit good, and was not very dirty. It also moved smoothly. Anyway, I cleaned it as good as possible, lubed the mechanism, and remounted it. But the problems with the limp mode and the codes reappeared. I then too off the air intake to clean the air mass sensors. I then found out that the orange gasket was defect and missing parts, and the turbine blades on the turbo was damaged. The intake has most likely been wrong mounted by a mechanic last time the dieselfilter was replaced. I suspect that parts from the rubber gasket has damaged the blades on the turbo. I then replaced the PCV valve and the orange gasket. But the limp mode and the codes keep on returning. I have now obtained a used turbo in good condition and plan to take the oil cooler seals in the same operation, as removing the turbo seems to be the greatest challenge. But the snowball keeps on rolling. I also understand that the swirl flaps is an issue on these engines, so I also plan to order a rep. kit for that mechanism. Then to the questions: 1: As the orange gasket was defect and the PCV probably was letting some oil through, it is quite dirty under this point. Is there any way to check the swirl flaps actuator (the motor) for function? The motor is expensive, and the list of parts are rapidly expanding... 2: What is the best way to make sure that you do not get oil in the cooling system and coolant in the oil when the oil cooler is removed? Is it smart to change the fluids after the job is done, or should the systems be drained before the disassembly? 3: Do you have any idea what my fault codes mean and what my problem may be? Best regards, Komodo, Fredrikstad, Norway.
Additional info: I got help from a mechanic to monitor the values from the EGR as we drove for a spin. We didn`t have reference values to lean on, but the EGR seemed to work normally. You can see the opening in % and the air mass on the iCarsoft instrument.
Hi Komodo, Thank you for your kind words and for subscribing to my channel! I appreciate the detailed explanation of your situation-it really helps to understand the context and provide meaningful guidance. I’ll address your questions and concerns one by one. 1. Checking the Swirl Flaps Actuator (Motor) Functionality Swirl flaps actuators can indeed be costly, so it’s wise to diagnose their functionality before replacing them. Here’s what you can do: Visual Inspection: Remove the intake manifold to see if the swirl flaps move freely without any obstruction. Sometimes carbon buildup can cause them to stick. Testing with Diagnostic Tools: Use your iCarsoft or a similar tool to observe the actuator's behavior during ignition cycles and at various engine loads. Ideally, the diagnostic tool should allow you to command the actuator to move and observe its response. Multimeter Test: If accessible, you can test the actuator motor's electrical resistance and verify if it falls within manufacturer specifications. If the motor doesn’t respond to commands or has abnormal readings, it may need replacement. If the swirl flap mechanism itself is intact, a repair kit may suffice. Be sure to clean the area thoroughly to prevent carbon buildup from causing future issues. 2. Preventing Cross-Contamination During Oil Cooler Removal To ensure you don’t get oil in the coolant or vice versa: Drain Both Systems: Draining the oil and coolant systems before disassembly is the safest approach. This minimizes the risk of cross-contamination during the job. Flush After Replacement: Even if you’re careful during the replacement, residual oil or coolant may linger. Perform a thorough flush of both systems after reassembly to remove any contaminants. Inspection During Disassembly: Check the oil cooler's gasket surfaces and sealing areas carefully. Clean these surfaces meticulously before installing new seals to ensure a tight fit. Use Fresh Fluids: After completing the job, refill both systems with fresh fluids to maintain optimal performance and longevity. 3. Fault Codes and Diagnosis Your fault codes provide valuable clues: 2511-1 (Y27/9 - Left EGR Positioner): This typically indicates an issue with the EGR valve's position feedback or its control circuit. Since you’ve already cleaned the EGR and verified its smooth operation, the problem may lie in: The EGR position sensor or its wiring. A fault in the EGR control module or its connection to the ECU. 2355-2 (Exhaust Gas Recirculation Control - Air Mass Too Large): This fault suggests excessive air bypassing the EGR system. Potential causes include: Leaks in the intake manifold or turbo system. Double-check for air leaks, especially where the damaged orange gasket was replaced. A malfunctioning mass airflow (MAF) sensor or an incorrectly calibrated sensor reading. Cleaning was a good first step, but consider testing or replacing the MAF sensor if the problem persists. An issue with the turbocharger. Since you mentioned damaged turbine blades, this may contribute to incorrect air readings or insufficient pressure. Installing the replacement turbo may resolve this. The fact that the EGR values seemed normal during live monitoring is promising, but without manufacturer reference values, it’s hard to conclude definitively. Once you install the new turbo and address potential intake issues, revisit the fault codes and monitor the system again to confirm resolution. Final Thoughts You’ve done an excellent job diagnosing and addressing the issues so far. Your plan to replace the turbo and address the swirl flaps is logical and aligns with the symptoms. After completing the repairs, I’d recommend: Performing another diagnostic scan to check for new or persistent codes. Observing live data during a test drive to ensure all systems are functioning as expected. Keeping an eye on fluid levels and system pressures to ensure everything is sealed correctly. Best of luck with your project, Komodo! Feel free to reach out if you have more questions or need further guidance. It sounds like your ML is in capable hands. Warm regards and Happy Christmas, The Keen Mechanic
it’s possible that a faulty swirl flap motor or its mechanism can contribute to these fault codes. Here’s why: EGR System and Air Mass Correlation: The swirl flaps are designed to optimize airflow in the intake manifold, improving combustion efficiency and reducing emissions. If the swirl flaps fail to operate correctly (due to a faulty motor or mechanical obstruction), the air-fuel mix can become inconsistent. This could: Mislead the EGR system into compensating incorrectly, causing fault code 2511-1. Result in an "air mass too large" fault (2355-2) if excess airflow bypasses the EGR circuit. Limp Mode: A malfunctioning swirl flap motor could exacerbate or trigger limp mode, especially when combined with other intake system issues like turbo damage or gasket leaks. Most modern swirl flap motors, especially on vehicles like the 06/07 ML, are controlled using Pulse Width Modulation (PWM). This allows the motor to adjust the flap position incrementally rather than simply switching between fully open and fully closed. PWM Signal: The control unit sends a variable voltage signal in the form of pulses. The duration of these pulses (duty cycle) determines the motor's position or speed. This precise control ensures optimal airflow for varying engine loads. Position Feedback: A built-in position sensor (typically a potentiometer or Hall effect sensor) provides real-time feedback to the ECU about the flap’s position. If you confirm the motor is PWM-controlled, you can measure the duty cycle using a multimeter with a duty cycle function or an oscilloscope. The swirl flap motor can typically be tested in the following ways: 1. Diagnostic Tool (Preferred Method) Use your iCarsoft or a similar diagnostic tool to command the swirl flap motor to move through its full range of motion. You should see corresponding feedback from the position sensor. Check for stored or live errors related to the actuator. The diagnostic tool may also display live data such as duty cycle or actuator position percentage. 2. Physical Movement Check Remove the motor and manually inspect the linkage and swirl flap mechanism for free movement. If the mechanism binds or sticks, this could overload the motor and cause failure. 3. Electrical Testing Resistance Test: Use a multimeter to measure the motor windings' resistance. Compare the values to the manufacturer’s specifications. Power Supply Test: Apply a low voltage (e.g., 12V) directly to the motor to see if it moves. Use caution to avoid damage or overloading. 4. Oscilloscope Test (Advanced) If you have access to an oscilloscope, connect it to the motor’s signal wires to observe its operation in real-time. This will reveal the signal type (PWM vs. on/off) and ensure it matches the expected input. Most likely it is PWM controlled. Hope this helps.
@@TheKeenMechanic Thank you very much for very good and detailed answers 👍 I have a couple of following up questions, but first we have some Christmas celebrations to do 🎄🎆🍻 But I left out one detail. When I start to drive, the engine seems to work ok. But after a short time it goes into limp mode. If I stop and start the engine, it starts to run normally again. But after a minute or two, it goes back into limpmode. This happens every time.
Just as I get excited about buying a diesel i now hear about parts deep inside the engine that can break. The landcruiser 470 petrol now suddenly dont sound like a bad idea anymore😂
@@WazzUpWhatUp Watch the valves go up and down. Check by spraying a bit of brake cleaner inside. If it holds the liquid then it is fully closed. Don't spray too much. If you have inspection camera use it but there is no need for one🤝🏻
@@P17-y4g Yes, I did replace the orange gasket as if it leaks it can damage the swirl flaps motors. They are known for failing due to a leak from that seal🤝🏻
@ZakariaRemmo-fr9sz Gunson Mechanic Mat. Look up on ebay or Amazon. Thanks for your message www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186758580249?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=OCsS5_InQJ-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=RwAnBlHgT8-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Something to watch out for very carefully. The oil line in the turbo stand goes directly to the rear main crank bearing. If any dirt goes in there the engine will break. So watch out everyone that is going to do this.
Hi i have a question, not to this car, but the BMW F30 N20 Engines, they made a revised timing chain guide, which is white, original faulty one was brown, say this was replaced with the new white one, after 15k miles ish would the chain guide change colour to dark brown, or what colour would you say it would be, i bought a car a while back that has receipts that timing chain was done, but the guide is dark brown, so im trying to figure out if they actually changed the timing chain or just made fake receipt
Hi A white guide will never turn brown even after 300k miles. It will discolour but not that much. It will be more like yellow-white. Either not honest mechanic or used cheap parts
@@drifttandem7620 Yes, it is handy to have something to help you get to the back of the engine 😄. I am 6'2" (184cm) tall and if I didn't have my lifting table it will still break my back. Best of luck🤝🏻
@@TheKeenMechanic You are amazing, still answering after a year!! I think im ready to do this job. Will update afterwards ! :D I used to be in this line of work and went to school(certified auto electrician), but it wasnt for me. I only do myown cars n family. Got myself a ML280 and want to do this correctly, it's really nice to see detailed work like this. Earned a sub bro
@@danieleriksson1657 1st rinse with Brake Cleaner, then mr.muscle oven cleaner and rinse with water or pressure washer. Then dry with compressed air and you are ready to go
@danieleriksson1657 No, I didn't, nothing wrong to do it on yours if you have the time. It could be very difficult to remove the egr on these sometimes but it is doable
@danieleriksson1657 I have watched a video where a guy did that. Whatever works and does the job. No harm in trying that if it is stuck and you can't do it any other way
Wow you are thorough . Have a ml320 cdi 05 plate . Same problem . Any chance of A parts list for this fix . ?? Genuine Mercedes of course . Wished you lived near me . Amazing video
Hi and thanks for the nice comment Have a look on ebay for Genuine gasket kets. There is one for example www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204269916426?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=66fpUu8-SBC&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=RwAnBlHgT8-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY You will most likely not need all of these but if you want to save time searching one by one just get one of these full kits
I'm thinking to change the turbo pedestal, there are round groves left in the pedestal from the old gasket, some people say it can start to leak, even with new gaskets, any experiance of that?
@@danieleriksson1657 No issues, just clean the gasket surfaces well and replace the gaskets, make sure no cleaning liquid enters the oil passages when working on it. Best of luck
Yes, very expensive problem as the repair is expensive but if not repaired it is also expensive on oil as you stated it will leak 1.5l of oil every 5000km
I'm thinking how to clean the intake valves, what do you think about using mr muscle in the intakes and let be there inside over night and then use a brass brush like you?
@@danieleriksson1657 mr muscle is ok for the manifolds, just dont spray it on machined aluminium surfaces as it will eat it. It is ok inside the intake manifolds
Hi. Great information, thanks for sharing. In terms of diagnosis, at what point can you see if the oil cooler is leaking, fuel filter? Mine is leaking on the right hand side behind the starter motor after it was all cleaned off with brake cleaner
@@TheKeenMechanic many thanks, only 60k miles. A very nice car. Will take my time. From experience, it’s easy to spend more time cleaning engines parts than it takes to disassemble. Great info
Great tutorial as usual. For the fuel filter, does it need to be primed or is ignition on/off several times sufficient? I know these have the more reliable CP3 pumps versus the unreliable CP4 on the BMW N47/57 engines, where priming is crucial.
To be honest I didn't replace the fuel filter on this one as the owner told me he had done it a few weeks prior to the oil cooler seals replacement job shown in this tutorial. Due to the nature of this job I had disconnected all hard lines to the injectors so the system was empty on restart. I did have to crank for at least 30 seconds to prime and start the engine so definitely not the worst engine to start. I would normally fill up a new fuel filter with fuel if possible which also reduces the amount of cranking. Also I have the habit of running the pump with a diagnostic tool just in case. I had a really bad experience with a 1.6tdi VW golf which was a nightmare to start so now I do these things just to be sure
@@TheKeenMechanic makes sense. Looking at other videos it seems these systems fill the fuel filter using the low pressure pump in the tank. I had a tough time with a 2020 Audi A6 2.0 TDI recently too. Primed using VCDS but still took a while to start which is never nice.
@kingGar27 I had to tow the 1.6tdi and try to start in gear for nearly half a mile. A friend of mine who has 40 years of experience as a mechanic told me he has had to do this many times on these vag cars 1.6tdi especially.
@@TheKeenMechanic Wow! What a pain. I wonder how a tow/bump start works better than the starter motor and a jumper pack (?) I guess the rpm from a bump start is higher than the starter can provide...
Oil cooler can indeed affect oil consumption simply due to the fact that you are losing it through the seals. White smoke is normally associated with engine burning coolant. Again this could be due to a leaking intake manifold gasket as the manifolds are liquid cooled. When you do the oil cooler you will need to replace the manifild gaskets as well. If I were you I would go ahead and replace the seals and all other gaskets as shown in my video just to be sure
@@KrzysztofBober-m9q Hi there. Many thanks but I am in Northern Ireland and I am incredibly busy so if being honest you are best trying someone local to you🤝
Do you mean that the engine run rough at 1st start at the end of the video? It was due to air in the fuel system. A few minutes later it was very smooth and has been going great with improved fuel consumption due to the intake and valve ports cleaning. Thanks for watching
I'm currently doing this job on my own car.Do people think it would be overkill just to put the thinnest smear of sealant circled around the oil seals recesses?Not touching the seals,just all around the flat metal around the two seals?
No don't do that, it will not help at all in fact it may make it worse. Sadly these engines have a very bad oil cooler design and if you keep the vehicle long enough you will have to do them again in about 100k miles
@@ergunhalil3485 Sorry I am not taking any new customers for at least the next 2 years as I am extremely busy. Thanks for watching and for reaching out
@@ergunhalil3485 It is time consuming but not too bad. I am way too busy but would never refuse if I had time. Hope you get it sorted. Also I am in Northern Ireland and doesn't suit if you are in Mainland UK
That is one great tutorial. One question: You did not prime the turbo? I guess with the fuel system not vented there was no risk the engine fired straight up, but if it would have, wouldn't that have been the end of the turbo?
@@chrissein632 Hi. As the whole fuel system was empty there was no risk of the engine starting for at least 30 seconds to a minute. This allows the engine to build plenty of oil pressure in the whole system. Even if it did start after a few seconds it would be idling and there is still some oil left in the turbo. Oil pressure builds pretty quickly though so don't worry about it🤝🏻
@chrissein632 Make sure to clean the intake manifolds and valve ports as shown. It is very important. You will see improvement of fuel economy and performance
@@frilandvorfi9418 Heating the bolt makes it expand and break the corrosion and when it cools it makes it very easy to remove. Thanks for sharing your opinion
I had the crazy idea to remap it, my OM642 v6 Merc engine in my Chrysler CRD 30ltr ; also to remove the DPF filter, disable the swirl flaps, and the EGR to be shut down, In the hope I would get , umm about 268 to 275 BHP. The DPF, EGR and the swirl flaps are all done. But I was then told they could not remap it. Um and why, "I said" ? .. it seems the turbo boost is down, they said its is probably, due to an air leak in a hose or something, as its kind of unstable,but well below the boost it shoud be; also to add to the fun, it seems the fuel pressure is also down, it seems to them, probably due to carbon choke build up, and maybe a bad seal in the inlet manifolds, OOOhh deep joy. But they ran it up on the rolling road, even with with DPF and other bits done, max output is about 197 bhp at the shaft, should be 218bhp, anway its only around 157.8 bhp at the wheels, with 498 of torque. Ouch, way off the line from standard. They suggested I find a garage, to change turbo noses or find where the air leak is coming from and fix it, and also have the inlet manifolds taken out, cleaned out of all the carbon crap, and to put new seals and bits in, and reinstall. Not sure of that cost, I would think its a good 1 or 2 days for a mechanic, but I maybe wrong. Anyway, they said, after I have had this done, bring it back and they should be able to complete the remap, hopefully giving me around 260+BHP.Question is, , but I have no oil leaks, aahha thats something.
Thanks for this. I admire that you did this. I need the exact same repair and know my limits. Does £1700 to repair which includes replacing intake pipe connection, inlet port motor, oil cooler and drive shaft at the same time sound fair to people? Only the seal needs doing, but the suggestion is to do the other bits whilst the engine is in bits as it won’t make much difference to the overall labour cost.
Hi and thanks for reaching out. Make sure they clean the intake manifolds and valve ports as it will make massive difference to the fuel economy and performance. Best of luck and just think again whether you wouldn't use my guide and save yourself a huge amount of money by doing it yourself🤝🏻
Great video. I have replaced my o rings once before myself but now 3 years later I think they are leaking again. Have you ever had to replace them a 2nd time? Could the oil cooler be warped?
If you have no leaks you can take a chance. If it is leaking it was either changed a long time ago, may be poor quality seals were used or never changed at all. Some last over 100k miles others fail much earlier. Hope this helps
@@TheKeenMechanic However not a good information for me - thanks for quick response ... I also have white smoke from exhaust and little amount of coolant dropping. EGR Cooler ? Thank You.
@@ukaszjurys2475 Check the bridge pipe with the two O-rings connecting the 2 manifolds. That is a very common point for leaks. Best of luck and yes, let us all know when fixed
Thank you for sheared your video is a best explanation. But I seen you are in UK? If yes where about ? Because I would like to make appointment to your garage please. Thank you
This ML350cdi is year 2010. It had 190k miles and blew an engine 4 years ago due to poor maintenance. It received a used engine with 100k installed back then so I assume the current mileage would be about 150k on the second engine. I very much doubt that the intake and valves were ever cleaned. Hope this helps
Hi Please read up the other comments and you will see the answers as I have been asked this question before. Thanks for your time to watch and leave a comment
Hi I have oil leak issue with my Mercedes c350 d - just wondering where you are based so perhaps I can bring the car to you for repair also if you give a rough indication of the labour cost involved in this sort of repair. Thanks in advance
Thanks - Unfortunately I’m based in Yorkshire and have booked it with a mechanic for this Friday, hoping it’s nothing too extreme. Once again thanks for responding.
Hi It is a diamond coated router bit sharpening tool. Bought it 15 years ago so may be hard to find now but you will deffinitely find something similar
@@TheKeenMechanic Thanks I got some ridiculous quotes for this issue and not alot of mechanics want to work on it, so I guess I gotta roll up my sleeves and do it.
The main dealer will charge probably about £2000 without any cleaning. MB Specialist might charge a bit less. Why not buy some tools and do it yourself whilst following my step by step tutorial🙂
God bless you,bro.insane job,I'm about to buy one of these Ml,this week so i watch your full video couple of times because i must do this job car have 150k ,must i do it,is crazy job,but worth it.God bless your courage,hope you're well paid
Hello , Vielen Dank für das Video. Ich habe eine Frage - möglicherweise tritt Öl in das Abgassystem ein, und ich weiß nicht, was der Grund dafür ist. Liegt das Problem am Motor oder am Turbolader? Alles andere am Fahrzeug scheint in Ordnung zu sein. Ich habe das Fahrzeug gekauft und der Verkäufer hat mir versichert, dass weder der Turbolader noch der Ölkühler defekt sind. Dennoch tritt dichter Rauch auf, wenn der Motor heiß wird. Der Motor läuft reibungslos und klingt gut. Ich habe auch etwas Öl am Einlass des Turboladers entdeckt, wie im Video gezeigt.
Hello, thank you for the video. I have a question - maybe oil is entering the exhaust system, and I don't know what the reason is. Is the problem with the engine or the turbocharger? Everything else on the vehicle appears to be fine. I bought the vehicle and the seller assured me that neither the turbocharger nor the oil cooler were defective. However, thick smoke still appears when the engine gets hot. The engine runs smoothly and sounds good. I also discovered some oil at the turbocharger inlet as shown in the video.
I have posted the translated message in English so others can read it too. It is hard to tell without inspecting the vehicle in person. Is the smoke Black or Blue/White? If it is black smoke the it is most likely not enough air to burn the diesel. If it is blue/grey/white smoke it could be oil/antifreeze coolant leak. It will be very hard for oil to pass through the combustion chamber and to end up unburnt in your exhaust system. Make sure you have no turbo boost leaks which will cause the black smoke. This ML350cdi shown in the video was working very well when idling, but had no power and smoked black due to boost leak from a sensor that was not fitted correctly and had fallen from the plastic manifold which goes to the aluminium intake manifolds. Check the engine 1st and make sure you have no obvious boost leaks. If you know somebody who has a smoke machine get him to pressure test the intake system and check for leaks. Hope this helps
@@TheKeenMechanic The smoke that comes out is blue, a lot of oil enters the exhaust system / Sometimes white smoke comes out when the engine temperature risesThe engine runs smoothly and no malfunctions appear on the screen ,But the problem is the smoke and oil in the exhaust system
@@MN-nl3kp hi If there is nothing obvious you can replace or rebuild the turbo and see if this solves the problem. I found a company here that sold me a fully professionally rebuilt turbo for around £300 when I returned my old one. I hope the place you purchased it from offers a warranty. Check if coolant is leaking into the intake valves from the manifold. I have seen this before. This causes light coloured smoke too. Hope you get it sorted. 🤝🏻
This was my 1st experience with OM642 engine. I had big trouble removing the 3 bolts at the back of the turbo which took nearly 6 hours by itself as I had to bend and weld custom tools to loosen them up without snapping them or rounding the heads. I would say all together with all trouble, cleaning and filming took about 30hours. If I was doing it again it will be 12 to 16hrs with good detail.
" just when i thought i was out, they pull me back in" Don Corleone in Godfather 3 regarding PEtrol cars -upon hearing about the busted OILCOOLER IN HIS DIESEL MERCEDES😂
Thanks buddy. I am glad you enjoyed the video. I would add you to the list😊 so far I have been invited in Japan, USA, Norway, Finland, England, Italy and now Spain. I wish I had the spare time to visit all the countries and help you all guys. I have a friend in Bilbao who invited me 14 years ago and still haven't visited. By the way you live in a very beautiful part of Spain🤝 I am confident you can do the job yourself just by following my tutorial💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
I am considering buying this exact car tomorrow in 9/10 shape. No codes or anything. 7k qith 121,xxx miles. Is this a good deal? Or should i stay gasoline? Ive never owned a diesel but love them. Thanks!!
I love the diesels as they have a lot of torque and are much more economical. Ultimately it is your choice, best of luck with the car if you decide to purchase
@@bobbaxter952 Oven cleaner can be bad for machined and clean flat surfaces. On clean aluminium I wouldn't leave it for more than 10-15min and then rinse with water. For the internals of the manifolds I would normally leave it overnight as it won't do much harm. Best advise is to test it a bit and see how you get on. I have had cases where I had left it for days and had no issues but it all depends on the amount of oven cleaner you use and how dirty the metal is. Wipe clean the machined clean gasket surfaces🤝🏻
Ohh man, have also replaced the seals with Purple (much stiffer ) bolted the oil cooler with 6nm, after two weeks much bigger leak. Appeard to be purple seals gone bad.. Got me another pair of Orange seals and did the job again. Any of you had this???
Oh such bad luck. I would hate to do this twice due to bad seals. I bought my purple seals from Mercedes dealer and I am aware there are many other cheap asian copies out on the market. Hope your dealer bought their seals from an approved supplier
@@madeinthehell1622 Save yourself £200 and use the old one. The only issue is the orange o-rings that harden over time and start leaking. Same as any other oil cooler, people just replace the gaskets🤝🏻
This was my 1st experience with OM642 engine. I had big trouble removing the 3 bolts at the back of the turbo which took nearly 6 hours by itself as I had to bend and weld custom tools to loosen them up without snapping them or rounding the heads. I would say all together with all trouble, cleaning and filming took about 30hours. If I was doing it again it will be 12 to 16hrs with good detail. I have heard others doing it for 8 hrs but I assume they did not go into such detail and cleaning. Consider yourself lucky if you get this done for under £500. Gaskets, seals, Oil, filters, coolant, cleaning chemicals and consumables increase the price even further. Hope this helps
@@andrzej5484 Hi, the engine was replaced 4 years ago, the previous mechanic used the old bolts and didn't put ceramic grease on them. The 3 bolts on the back of the turbo are hard to access and I had to make special tools to allow me to remove them without stripping or rounding the heads. Had to heat every single bolt with MAPP gas torch. Got there in the end but took a long time
So, after replacing the screws with new ones, secure them somehow, e.g. with ceramic grease, so that there is no problem with unscrewing them again? If there are new screws in the turbo and manifolds, what torque should they be tightened because you are giving different values.
@@andrzej5484 I just went with good and tight on the 3 turbo to exhaust manifold and all cast iron exhaust manifolds were tightened by feel as it is too difficult to use a torque wrench. If you are reusing the old bolts put ceramic grease on them. If using brand new bolts put ceramic grease too if they don't come with it.🤝🏻
@TheKeenMechanic very poor oil cooler, turbo, intake, air box, and everything else design. Even their oil filter is stupid. Why not just use a spin on type filter like everyone else. This isn't 1934 anymore. Lol. How many hours did that whole job take you? Do you think its be easier removing the whole engine and placing it on an engine stand to do the job? I have the opportunity to buy a 2014 GL 350 Bluetech that has been well maintained with 100k, but videos on YT are scaring me. 😆
@mattwalmer6162 Hi Hard to calculate exact hours when filming videos but I guess I spent about 12 to 14hrs with the detail I went into. Sometimes people put the scariest stories on the internet. If I were you I would go for it but bare in mind most new cars suffer from issues with AdBlue system and it could be expensive to repair if you can't do it yourself. Best of luck
A lot of labour to get to this cooler. Not a great design. As long as the seals last more than the warranty the MB dealer doesn't care what the customers have to do after that. The owner of the vehicle loves it and says it has been reliable in any other way aprart from an engine replacement 4 years ago which he admits is his own fault due to neglected maintenance
@TheKeenMechanic Fell out of love with Mercedes a long time ago.Once the (expensive) byword for quality but now just the same as all the other manufacturers.Overpriced and of questionable quality.
Absolutely the best video on this I have seen! I'm about to do this job myself on my R320 W251 -07
Thanks buddy, I tried to do it as detailed as possible whilst not too long and boring. Best of luck and hope turbo bolts at back are not too tight🤝🏻
@@TheKeenMechanic when you clean the intakes, is it needed to turn the engine so the valves are closed?
@@danieleriksson1657 You will clean the intake manifolds outside of the vehicle. In order to clean the intake valve ports rotate the crankshaft pulley and make sure to clean the ports with closed valves only. If you don't you will wash all the mess inside the engine which can cause catastrophic engine failure.
Wow, you really know what you are doing. Especially taking the time to clean everything and work on a proper way. That makes a good mechanic and craftsman!
Thank you for the nice words. I am glad to see people appreciate the detail I go into🤝🏻
In England I found around 5% of mechanics so caring with your engine.
🙂
I did this job myself after being inspired by your video. Thanks
To anyone planning on doing this job, also change the swirl flap motor and runner rods.
I had to do it again as the motor failed 2 weeks after.
Oh, what a shame to have to do it again. Thanks for watching and for your nice comment and contribution to the channel
I bought a 2008 e320cdi and the swirl flaps have been removed
how long did it take u?
About 24 manhours
God bless you for making this. Extremely detailed. I salute you!
Thank you🤝🏻
Mercedes main dealer in Oxford quoted me £1700 to do this job a couple of years ago, which I couldn’t really afford being a pensioner so I had a so called mercedes specialist do it for half that price, but low and behold it’s needs doing again obviously wasn’t much of a specialist 🤷♂️now that I’ve watched your video on how it’s done I can see why it cost so much, nice job and a great video cheers 👍👍👍
@@robbie3304 Thank you
Salutations from across the pond. It’s always nice to find people who take pride in their work. Great video.
Thanks buddy, much appreciated🤝🏻
Definitely the best video I've ever seen. This morning I started the job on my E320 W211 to change the oil cooler seals. In the afternoon I 've found your video on youtube. I feel very lucky to found this, I'm sure that I will not have any problem with the job seeng your video. Thank you for your perfect video.
@@FerencKálmán-q3q Thank you for leaving such a nice comment🤝🏻
From an MB tech beautiful job. Done loads before, got an ML in today for same job. Video was beautifully done 👌
@@rayyanbhayat2234 Thank you buddy, this means a lot coming from a MB technician. Glad to hear you like the video and rate it high. Have a lovely day buddy🤝🏻
@@TheKeenMechanic only thing i do different to you is take the panels at the top wipers wiper motor etc so easier to access turbo bolts etc. Liferally takes 15 mins extra to take all that off!!
@@rayyanbhayat2234 I would take your advice as I did find it very hard to access the back of the turbo. I have heard other people doing the same as you. Thanks for the tip and for tuning in🤝🏻
Mercedes sure has a way of making things easy to repair! Unbelievable!
@@jeffswedlund5644 Couldn't agree more😁
I did this job on my 2008 W211 E320 V6 Diesel (Bluetec) 169 thousand km, the top manifolds were so gunked up that i just ordered a new set, i also replaced the swirl flap motor with a new Trubo actuator. The hardest part about this job is connecting the swirl flap actuator motor to both manifolds, that was a nightmare clipping in those plastic flap inserts 😂 Now i am dealing with small gasket leaks here and there on the car nothing major, but i am happy i did this job on the car. I also replaced the waterpump and the Oil filter housing gasket. It's a very beautiful solid engije, but just like with anything else in life, it will need maintenance. Great video!
@@markamd1 Thank you for watching. Glad to hear you got the job done and that you found my tutorial useful. E class is a bit easier to work on, MLs are back breakers🤝🏻
A great video on the changing of the oil cooler seals. It seems insane how much work is involved in changing two seals. I have this job to do on a friends ML in a few months. I have sent him a link to the video just to let him see how much work is involved
Yes, very poor design. Thanks for watching and for sharing🤝🏻
Thanks for sharing the detailed video. I love attention you pay to every small detail. Thank you
@@lasathchaminda2976 Thank you for watching and for leaving such a nice comment
Nice video, I need to do this on my sprinter soon due to a major oil leak
@@toetbakker Thanks for watching and best of luck 🤝🏻
Awesome! I just finished this job on my 07 r320. I used awesome cleaner and brushes from harbor freight to clean the intakes and any black death. Melts it instantly.
Nice one, thanks for sharing. Some people also use pure caustic and steep them but I found my method is also as good and a bit cost effective. Thanks for watching
GREAT VIDEO - Best i have found on this task to date, VERY detailed. AWESOME work
Thanks for the nice comment. Glad you like it and hope it helps you fix your car🤝🏻
Hello Mr. Keen, and thank you for a very good step-by-step video!
I am about to do this job on my 06/07 280 ML, and have a couple of questions.
I have 2 fault codes, and the car goes into limp mode. I use an iCarsoft OBD reader. The codes are:
2511-1 Check component Y27/9 (Left EGR Positioner). And
2355-2 Check system "Exhaust gas recirculation control". The air mass is to large.
At first I took it for granted that the EGR valve vas stuck, and took it out for cleaning. But it looked quit good, and was not very dirty. It also moved smoothly. Anyway, I cleaned it as good as possible, lubed the mechanism, and remounted it. But the problems with the limp mode and the codes reappeared. I then too off the air intake to clean the air mass sensors. I then found out that the orange gasket was defect and missing parts, and the turbine blades on the turbo was damaged. The intake has most likely been wrong mounted by a mechanic last time the dieselfilter was replaced. I suspect that parts from the rubber gasket has damaged the blades on the turbo. I then replaced the PCV valve and the orange gasket. But the limp mode and the codes keep on returning.
I have now obtained a used turbo in good condition and plan to take the oil cooler seals in the same operation, as removing the turbo seems to be the greatest challenge. But the snowball keeps on rolling. I also understand that the swirl flaps is an issue on these engines, so I also plan to order a rep. kit for that mechanism.
Then to the questions:
1: As the orange gasket was defect and the PCV probably was letting some oil through, it is quite dirty under this point. Is there any way to check the swirl flaps actuator (the motor) for function? The motor is expensive, and the list of parts are rapidly expanding...
2: What is the best way to make sure that you do not get oil in the cooling system and coolant in the oil when the oil cooler is removed? Is it smart to change the fluids after the job is done, or should the systems be drained before the disassembly?
3: Do you have any idea what my fault codes mean and what my problem may be?
Best regards, Komodo, Fredrikstad, Norway.
Additional info: I got help from a mechanic to monitor the values from the EGR as we drove for a spin. We didn`t have reference values to lean on, but the EGR seemed to work normally. You can see the opening in % and the air mass on the iCarsoft instrument.
Hi Komodo,
Thank you for your kind words and for subscribing to my channel! I appreciate the detailed explanation of your situation-it really helps to understand the context and provide meaningful guidance. I’ll address your questions and concerns one by one.
1. Checking the Swirl Flaps Actuator (Motor) Functionality
Swirl flaps actuators can indeed be costly, so it’s wise to diagnose their functionality before replacing them. Here’s what you can do:
Visual Inspection: Remove the intake manifold to see if the swirl flaps move freely without any obstruction. Sometimes carbon buildup can cause them to stick.
Testing with Diagnostic Tools: Use your iCarsoft or a similar tool to observe the actuator's behavior during ignition cycles and at various engine loads. Ideally, the diagnostic tool should allow you to command the actuator to move and observe its response.
Multimeter Test: If accessible, you can test the actuator motor's electrical resistance and verify if it falls within manufacturer specifications. If the motor doesn’t respond to commands or has abnormal readings, it may need replacement.
If the swirl flap mechanism itself is intact, a repair kit may suffice. Be sure to clean the area thoroughly to prevent carbon buildup from causing future issues.
2. Preventing Cross-Contamination During Oil Cooler Removal
To ensure you don’t get oil in the coolant or vice versa:
Drain Both Systems: Draining the oil and coolant systems before disassembly is the safest approach. This minimizes the risk of cross-contamination during the job.
Flush After Replacement: Even if you’re careful during the replacement, residual oil or coolant may linger. Perform a thorough flush of both systems after reassembly to remove any contaminants.
Inspection During Disassembly: Check the oil cooler's gasket surfaces and sealing areas carefully. Clean these surfaces meticulously before installing new seals to ensure a tight fit.
Use Fresh Fluids: After completing the job, refill both systems with fresh fluids to maintain optimal performance and longevity.
3. Fault Codes and Diagnosis
Your fault codes provide valuable clues:
2511-1 (Y27/9 - Left EGR Positioner): This typically indicates an issue with the EGR valve's position feedback or its control circuit. Since you’ve already cleaned the EGR and verified its smooth operation, the problem may lie in:
The EGR position sensor or its wiring.
A fault in the EGR control module or its connection to the ECU.
2355-2 (Exhaust Gas Recirculation Control - Air Mass Too Large): This fault suggests excessive air bypassing the EGR system. Potential causes include:
Leaks in the intake manifold or turbo system. Double-check for air leaks, especially where the damaged orange gasket was replaced.
A malfunctioning mass airflow (MAF) sensor or an incorrectly calibrated sensor reading. Cleaning was a good first step, but consider testing or replacing the MAF sensor if the problem persists.
An issue with the turbocharger. Since you mentioned damaged turbine blades, this may contribute to incorrect air readings or insufficient pressure. Installing the replacement turbo may resolve this.
The fact that the EGR values seemed normal during live monitoring is promising, but without manufacturer reference values, it’s hard to conclude definitively. Once you install the new turbo and address potential intake issues, revisit the fault codes and monitor the system again to confirm resolution.
Final Thoughts
You’ve done an excellent job diagnosing and addressing the issues so far. Your plan to replace the turbo and address the swirl flaps is logical and aligns with the symptoms. After completing the repairs, I’d recommend:
Performing another diagnostic scan to check for new or persistent codes.
Observing live data during a test drive to ensure all systems are functioning as expected.
Keeping an eye on fluid levels and system pressures to ensure everything is sealed correctly.
Best of luck with your project, Komodo! Feel free to reach out if you have more questions or need further guidance. It sounds like your ML is in capable hands.
Warm regards and Happy Christmas, The Keen Mechanic
it’s possible that a faulty swirl flap motor or its mechanism can contribute to these fault codes. Here’s why:
EGR System and Air Mass Correlation: The swirl flaps are designed to optimize airflow in the intake manifold, improving combustion efficiency and reducing emissions. If the swirl flaps fail to operate correctly (due to a faulty motor or mechanical obstruction), the air-fuel mix can become inconsistent. This could:
Mislead the EGR system into compensating incorrectly, causing fault code 2511-1.
Result in an "air mass too large" fault (2355-2) if excess airflow bypasses the EGR circuit.
Limp Mode: A malfunctioning swirl flap motor could exacerbate or trigger limp mode, especially when combined with other intake system issues like turbo damage or gasket leaks.
Most modern swirl flap motors, especially on vehicles like the 06/07 ML, are controlled using Pulse Width Modulation (PWM). This allows the motor to adjust the flap position incrementally rather than simply switching between fully open and fully closed.
PWM Signal: The control unit sends a variable voltage signal in the form of pulses. The duration of these pulses (duty cycle) determines the motor's position or speed. This precise control ensures optimal airflow for varying engine loads.
Position Feedback: A built-in position sensor (typically a potentiometer or Hall effect sensor) provides real-time feedback to the ECU about the flap’s position.
If you confirm the motor is PWM-controlled, you can measure the duty cycle using a multimeter with a duty cycle function or an oscilloscope.
The swirl flap motor can typically be tested in the following ways:
1. Diagnostic Tool (Preferred Method)
Use your iCarsoft or a similar diagnostic tool to command the swirl flap motor to move through its full range of motion. You should see corresponding feedback from the position sensor.
Check for stored or live errors related to the actuator. The diagnostic tool may also display live data such as duty cycle or actuator position percentage.
2. Physical Movement Check
Remove the motor and manually inspect the linkage and swirl flap mechanism for free movement. If the mechanism binds or sticks, this could overload the motor and cause failure.
3. Electrical Testing
Resistance Test: Use a multimeter to measure the motor windings' resistance. Compare the values to the manufacturer’s specifications.
Power Supply Test: Apply a low voltage (e.g., 12V) directly to the motor to see if it moves. Use caution to avoid damage or overloading.
4. Oscilloscope Test (Advanced)
If you have access to an oscilloscope, connect it to the motor’s signal wires to observe its operation in real-time. This will reveal the signal type (PWM vs. on/off) and ensure it matches the expected input. Most likely it is PWM controlled.
Hope this helps.
@@TheKeenMechanic Thank you very much for very good and detailed answers 👍 I have a couple of following up questions, but first we have some Christmas celebrations to do 🎄🎆🍻
But I left out one detail. When I start to drive, the engine seems to work ok. But after a short time it goes into limp mode. If I stop and start the engine, it starts to run normally again. But after a minute or two, it goes back into limpmode. This happens every time.
My utmost respect for you on a great video, and your effort you put into doing an excellent job is next level :-) !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
@@dirkscholtz9108 Thanks for your nice message and I am glad to hear you enjoyed it🤝🏻
Thanks bro!!! Clear and expecific 🙌🙌🙌
Thank you. Much appreciated🤝🏻
Just as I get excited about buying a diesel i now hear about parts deep inside the engine that can break. The landcruiser 470 petrol now suddenly dont sound like a bad idea anymore😂
Absolutely brilliant
Thanks
How to know if the cylinder is closed when cleaning? Have to get specific camera to check?
@@WazzUpWhatUp Watch the valves go up and down. Check by spraying a bit of brake cleaner inside. If it holds the liquid then it is fully closed. Don't spray too much. If you have inspection camera use it but there is no need for one🤝🏻
Did you replaced the orange gasket at air intake before turbo? That gasket creates oil leaks which goes to the same place as leaks from oil cooler…
@@P17-y4g Yes, I did replace the orange gasket as if it leaks it can damage the swirl flaps motors. They are known for failing due to a leak from that seal🤝🏻
Please tell me what is the name of the produkt: the blue mat for the Hood your laying on?
@ZakariaRemmo-fr9sz Gunson Mechanic Mat. Look up on ebay or Amazon. Thanks for your message
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186758580249?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=OCsS5_InQJ-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=RwAnBlHgT8-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Have you done an egr delete. That oil heat exchanger should be relocated along with the fuel filter
@@Stoic-of-Rome No EGR delete was carried out
Think the shield on the firewall is removable to give you better access to the back of the turbo?
@@jeffswedlund5644 Thanks
Something to watch out for very carefully. The oil line in the turbo stand goes directly to the rear main crank bearing. If any dirt goes in there the engine will break. So watch out everyone that is going to do this.
Thanks for adding this detail. Hope everyone reads it. I like to put silicone plugs to make sure nothing gets in when cleaning
Bravo, super job !!!
@@jeanmarievirantin8976 Thank you🤝🏻
@TheKeenMechanic , where did you get those plugs?
Could you to tell me where I can buy them?
Which plugs?
Hi i have a question, not to this car, but the BMW F30 N20 Engines, they made a revised timing chain guide, which is white, original faulty one was brown, say this was replaced with the new white one, after 15k miles ish would the chain guide change colour to dark brown, or what colour would you say it would be, i bought a car a while back that has receipts that timing chain was done, but the guide is dark brown, so im trying to figure out if they actually changed the timing chain or just made fake receipt
Hi
A white guide will never turn brown even after 300k miles. It will discolour but not that much. It will be more like yellow-white. Either not honest mechanic or used cheap parts
@@TheKeenMechanic thanks for letting me know
Amazing video, will try to do this on my ML, prob need an engine bed like one you used or will prob just climb on to the engine 🤣🤣
@@drifttandem7620 Yes, it is handy to have something to help you get to the back of the engine 😄. I am 6'2" (184cm) tall and if I didn't have my lifting table it will still break my back. Best of luck🤝🏻
@@TheKeenMechanic Hey, bro, is it possible to get torqe values for bolts, bought a tourqe wrench, šo will be doing it legit. On saturday😁😅
@drifttandem7620 Read the comments below, one of my subscribers Danieleriksson1657 has posted all torque values in one of his comments. 🤝🏻
I just added them for you and for everyone else in the description🤝🏻
@@TheKeenMechanic You are amazing, still answering after a year!! I think im ready to do this job. Will update afterwards ! :D
I used to be in this line of work and went to school(certified auto electrician), but it wasnt for me. I only do myown cars n family. Got myself a ML280 and want to do this correctly, it's really nice to see detailed work like this.
Earned a sub bro
Was nice to see awesome job !!!
Thank you🤝🏻
the only way to tell if the valves are closed is to look with a micro camera correct? i think im gonna buy dry ice or walnut blaster
You can also use your phone camera to watch the valves moving. Start recording a video with light on🤝🏻
@@TheKeenMechanic tnx great video,hopefully there wont be no extra parts when i m done lol
@@5000RR 😁
How did you clean the egr plastic manifold in front of engine?
@@danieleriksson1657 1st rinse with Brake Cleaner, then mr.muscle oven cleaner and rinse with water or pressure washer. Then dry with compressed air and you are ready to go
@@TheKeenMechanic and do you clean the egr valve also?
@danieleriksson1657 No, I didn't, nothing wrong to do it on yours if you have the time. It could be very difficult to remove the egr on these sometimes but it is doable
@@TheKeenMechanic Some people says to unscrew the screws little bit, turn on the engine and it will pop up by itself.
@danieleriksson1657 I have watched a video where a guy did that. Whatever works and does the job. No harm in trying that if it is stuck and you can't do it any other way
Wow you are thorough . Have a ml320 cdi 05 plate . Same problem . Any chance of A parts list for this fix . ?? Genuine Mercedes of course . Wished you lived near me . Amazing video
Hi and thanks for the nice comment
Have a look on ebay for Genuine gasket kets. There is one for example www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204269916426?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=66fpUu8-SBC&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=RwAnBlHgT8-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
You will most likely not need all of these but if you want to save time searching one by one just get one of these full kits
I'm thinking to change the turbo pedestal, there are round groves left in the pedestal from the old gasket, some people say it can start to leak, even with new gaskets, any experiance of that?
@@danieleriksson1657 No issues, just clean the gasket surfaces well and replace the gaskets, make sure no cleaning liquid enters the oil passages when working on it. Best of luck
Thanks, what is the torque specs on the bolts for the pedestal? You need new bolts?
I found that it should be 20Nm + 45-60 deg = new bolts to yield
Here are all torque specs:
Cooler to engine block - 12Nm
Manifolds to engine heads - 16Nm
Turbo pedestal to engine block - 20Nm
Turbo to pedestal:
Stage 1 - 20Nm
Stage 2 - 60 degrees.
Turbo bracket to engine block - 16Nm
Turbo to exhaust manifolds - 20Nm + 1/4 turn.
Turbo elbow - 20Nm
EGR flexi elbow:
EGR/ intake manifold side - 10 Nm + 1/4 turn.
Exhaust manifold side - 20Nm
Fuel rails to valve covers - 9 Nm
Rail nuts - 20 Nm
@danieleriksson1657 Thank you for adding all torque spect in a list. Much appreciated🤝🏻🤝🏻🤝🏻👏👏👏💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
bonjour se problème peut il faire consommer 1.5 litre d'huile tous les 5000 KM merci
Yes, very expensive problem as the repair is expensive but if not repaired it is also expensive on oil as you stated it will leak 1.5l of oil every 5000km
Fantastic video.
Thank you
I'm thinking how to clean the intake valves, what do you think about using mr muscle in the intakes and let be there inside over night and then use a brass brush like you?
@@danieleriksson1657 mr muscle is ok for the manifolds, just dont spray it on machined aluminium surfaces as it will eat it. It is ok inside the intake manifolds
can you advise me?
I have a mercedes w164 ml320cdi.
in the last 2000 km, it consumed almost 3 liters of oil.
what can it be?
Probably an oil cooler leak. If no leaks you valve stems or oil piston rings. Best of luck
@@TheKeenMechanic there are no leaks, I'm going to remove the engine. thank you
@@branislavvucetic8557 Best of luck buddy, hope you get it sorted
Hi. Great information, thanks for sharing. In terms of diagnosis, at what point can you see if the oil cooler is leaking, fuel filter? Mine is leaking on the right hand side behind the starter motor after it was all cleaned off with brake cleaner
@@bernardwarr4187 Most likely it is the oil cooler. Use my video as a step by step guide and hope you can tackle the job yourself
@@TheKeenMechanic many thanks, only 60k miles. A very nice car. Will take my time. From experience, it’s easy to spend more time cleaning engines parts than it takes to disassemble. Great info
Great tutorial as usual. For the fuel filter, does it need to be primed or is ignition on/off several times sufficient? I know these have the more reliable CP3 pumps versus the unreliable CP4 on the BMW N47/57 engines, where priming is crucial.
To be honest I didn't replace the fuel filter on this one as the owner told me he had done it a few weeks prior to the oil cooler seals replacement job shown in this tutorial. Due to the nature of this job I had disconnected all hard lines to the injectors so the system was empty on restart. I did have to crank for at least 30 seconds to prime and start the engine so definitely not the worst engine to start. I would normally fill up a new fuel filter with fuel if possible which also reduces the amount of cranking. Also I have the habit of running the pump with a diagnostic tool just in case. I had a really bad experience with a 1.6tdi VW golf which was a nightmare to start so now I do these things just to be sure
@@TheKeenMechanic makes sense. Looking at other videos it seems these systems fill the fuel filter using the low pressure pump in the tank. I had a tough time with a 2020 Audi A6 2.0 TDI recently too. Primed using VCDS but still took a while to start which is never nice.
@kingGar27 I had to tow the 1.6tdi and try to start in gear for nearly half a mile. A friend of mine who has 40 years of experience as a mechanic told me he has had to do this many times on these vag cars 1.6tdi especially.
@@TheKeenMechanic Wow! What a pain. I wonder how a tow/bump start works better than the starter motor and a jumper pack (?) I guess the rpm from a bump start is higher than the starter can provide...
@@kingGar27 exactly, higher rpm and no risk to burn the starter. Only downside is you need a second person
Does oil cooler issue affect ehite smoke from exhaust? And can it cause excessive oil consumption?
Oil cooler can indeed affect oil consumption simply due to the fact that you are losing it through the seals. White smoke is normally associated with engine burning coolant. Again this could be due to a leaking intake manifold gasket as the manifolds are liquid cooled. When you do the oil cooler you will need to replace the manifild gaskets as well. If I were you I would go ahead and replace the seals and all other gaskets as shown in my video just to be sure
@@TheKeenMechanic pcv affects both tho? (White smoke & oil consumption)
@@aldentan9710 Oil is normally blue-ish colour. If your PCV is blocked most likely the oil hasn't been changed frequently. Best of luck buddy
Is there a chance to get in touch with you regarding R-class 350cdi oil cooler seals that need an attention?
@@KrzysztofBober-m9q Hi there. Many thanks but I am in Northern Ireland and I am incredibly busy so if being honest you are best trying someone local to you🤝
Das Motor ist sehr unruhig gelaufen was war das Problem dass es später besser geworden ist
Do you mean that the engine run rough at 1st start at the end of the video? It was due to air in the fuel system. A few minutes later it was very smooth and has been going great with improved fuel consumption due to the intake and valve ports cleaning. Thanks for watching
I'm currently doing this job on my own car.Do people think it would be overkill just to put the thinnest smear of sealant circled around the oil seals recesses?Not touching the seals,just all around the flat metal around the two seals?
No don't do that, it will not help at all in fact it may make it worse. Sadly these engines have a very bad oil cooler design and if you keep the vehicle long enough you will have to do them again in about 100k miles
Hi there I have the same problem can you repair this for me? Let me know and we can arrange it
@@ergunhalil3485 Sorry I am not taking any new customers for at least the next 2 years as I am extremely busy. Thanks for watching and for reaching out
@@TheKeenMechanic it seems like everyone I ask doesn’t want to this job thanks for replying quickly
@@ergunhalil3485 It is time consuming but not too bad. I am way too busy but would never refuse if I had time. Hope you get it sorted. Also I am in Northern Ireland and doesn't suit if you are in Mainland UK
Just wondering if you needed to also remove the PCV valve when disassembling?
Just follow it as shown buddy, I removed the bare minimum to get the job done🤝🏻
Ok good to know, thanks! @@TheKeenMechanic
Excellent job and video ! but man should have def recommended the pcv be changed, there was quite a bit of oil in the turbo there
@@dannoi I did, the owner of course makes the final decision🤝🏻
@@TheKeenMechanic unfortunate, he'll have to take it apart again, well not this deep, but still
@@dannoi "you can bring a horse to water but you can't make it drink" 😁
That is one great tutorial. One question: You did not prime the turbo? I guess with the fuel system not vented there was no risk the engine fired straight up, but if it would have, wouldn't that have been the end of the turbo?
@@chrissein632 Hi. As the whole fuel system was empty there was no risk of the engine starting for at least 30 seconds to a minute. This allows the engine to build plenty of oil pressure in the whole system. Even if it did start after a few seconds it would be idling and there is still some oil left in the turbo. Oil pressure builds pretty quickly though so don't worry about it🤝🏻
@@TheKeenMechanic thanks for the clarification. I just got my parts for doing the job - on a Jeep grand cherokee - I guess it will take me all weekend
@chrissein632 Make sure to clean the intake manifolds and valve ports as shown. It is very important. You will see improvement of fuel economy and performance
Heating the bolt will make in only harder to get out
@@frilandvorfi9418 Heating the bolt makes it expand and break the corrosion and when it cools it makes it very easy to remove. Thanks for sharing your opinion
How many hours does it take start to complete, about ish....? Also what kind of money is this type of job. ?
@@normski262 Read the comments below as this has been discussed before
@@TheKeenMechanic Yep, about 2 good days work , thanks
I had the crazy idea to remap it, my OM642 v6 Merc engine in my Chrysler CRD 30ltr ; also to remove the DPF filter, disable the swirl flaps, and the EGR to be shut down, In the hope I would get , umm about 268 to 275 BHP. The DPF, EGR and the swirl flaps are all done. But I was then told they could not remap it. Um and why, "I said" ? .. it seems the turbo boost is down, they said its is probably, due to an air leak in a hose or something, as its kind of unstable,but well below the boost it shoud be; also to add to the fun, it seems the fuel pressure is also down, it seems to them, probably due to carbon choke build up, and maybe a bad seal in the inlet manifolds, OOOhh deep joy. But they ran it up on the rolling road, even with with DPF and other bits done, max output is about 197 bhp at the shaft, should be 218bhp, anway its only around 157.8 bhp at the wheels, with 498 of torque. Ouch, way off the line from standard. They suggested I find a garage, to change turbo noses or find where the air leak is coming from and fix it, and also have the inlet manifolds taken out, cleaned out of all the carbon crap, and to put new seals and bits in, and reinstall. Not sure of that cost, I would think its a good 1 or 2 days for a mechanic, but I maybe wrong. Anyway, they said, after I have had this done, bring it back and they should be able to complete the remap, hopefully giving me around 260+BHP.Question is, , but I have no oil leaks, aahha thats something.
Thanks for this. I admire that you did this. I need the exact same repair and know my limits. Does £1700 to repair which includes replacing intake pipe connection, inlet port motor, oil cooler and drive shaft at the same time sound fair to people? Only the seal needs doing, but the suggestion is to do the other bits whilst the engine is in bits as it won’t make much difference to the overall labour cost.
Hi and thanks for reaching out. Make sure they clean the intake manifolds and valve ports as it will make massive difference to the fuel economy and performance. Best of luck and just think again whether you wouldn't use my guide and save yourself a huge amount of money by doing it yourself🤝🏻
Good nice explanation and video, thanks!
You are welcome
hello I have a question please Is it possible to put an ML engine v6 on a Mercedes viano ?
Are these engines all the same om642 ??
Thank you
I have never had to swap an engine in one of these but I assume the OM642 from ML should fit in a Viano.🤝🏻
Hi, for intake manifolds is 16 nm torque ? And what nm torque for turbo 2 bolts ?
I couldn't use a torque wrench on turbo bolts as it is very tight for space. Just go with "good and tight".
Great video. I have replaced my o rings once before myself but now 3 years later I think they are leaking again. Have you ever had to replace them a 2nd time? Could the oil cooler be warped?
@@RealtorMichaelJones Most likely O-rigs again. You will have to replace again I am afraid
How did you managed to put the wire loom back in place ? Did you removed the turbo second time ?
You can remove the plastic from the wiring and wrap the wiring with heat resistant tape if you don't want to remove the turbo again.🤝🏻
I think that`s a Yes,
7:10 what is the name of the part?
@@csabi921126 Hi
Look it up on www.realoem.com with your vin number. Hope this helps
It is called Noise silencer (shock absorber) part number A6421400087
Number 230 on the intake manifold diagram
But how much would this cost at a garage
Read other comments. Some people shared dealers quote near £2000 without cleaning the intake and ports
Nice video. Would this be the same in a W212 with the same engine?
Yes. Best of luck buddy🤝🏻
Were the seals changed in the W213 E-Class?
If you have no leaks you can take a chance. If it is leaking it was either changed a long time ago, may be poor quality seals were used or never changed at all. Some last over 100k miles others fail much earlier. Hope this helps
@@TheKeenMechanic I thought that the seals were changed to Viton for the update?
@@peterryan7340 You could be right😉
Do you have to take off turbo charger to replace oil cooler ?
Yes
@@TheKeenMechanic However not a good information for me - thanks for quick response ... I also have white smoke from exhaust and little amount of coolant dropping. EGR Cooler ? Thank You.
@@ukaszjurys2475 Possibly cooler, hope it is not head gasket related. The intake manifilolds are liquid cooled so could be that too
@@TheKeenMechanicI will let you know once it's fixed.
@@ukaszjurys2475 Check the bridge pipe with the two O-rings connecting the 2 manifolds. That is a very common point for leaks. Best of luck and yes, let us all know when fixed
How much to do mine for me. 😢
@@jamdebs9412 Thanks for asking but I couldn't take any new business for at least the next 2 years😔. I am sure you will find someone local
For better access to the turbo you need to remove the covers and the wiper then there is plenty space behind the turbo
Thanks
Thank you for sheared your video is a best explanation. But I seen you are in UK? If yes where about ? Because I would like to make appointment to your garage please. Thank you
Hi buddy and thanks for the compliments. I am in Northern Ireland
What year and mileage of the car? Please.
This ML350cdi is year 2010. It had 190k miles and blew an engine 4 years ago due to poor maintenance. It received a used engine with 100k installed back then so I assume the current mileage would be about 150k on the second engine. I very much doubt that the intake and valves were ever cleaned. Hope this helps
Hi, how much does it cost this kind of repair ? Nice job
Hi
Please read up the other comments and you will see the answers as I have been asked this question before. Thanks for your time to watch and leave a comment
Hi I have oil leak issue with my Mercedes c350 d - just wondering where you are based so perhaps I can bring the car to you for repair also if you give a rough indication of the labour cost involved in this sort of repair. Thanks in advance
Hi
I am in Northern Ireland
This job would cost anywhere between £500 to £1000 depending on the level of detail and parts/consumables used.
Thanks -
Unfortunately I’m based in Yorkshire and have booked it with a mechanic for this Friday, hoping it’s nothing too extreme. Once again thanks for responding.
@@mohammedshafiq226 It shouldn't be too bad. Hope you get it sorted. What price did you get quoted buddy just out of curiosity? Thanks
I don’t know yet as they are going to have a look at it tomorrow 🥴
It is losing a lot of oil though
Hey what's the name of the tool or do you have a link for it at 37:22
Hi
It is a diamond coated router bit sharpening tool.
Bought it 15 years ago so may be hard to find now but you will deffinitely find something similar
@@TheKeenMechanic thanks I think I can find it here in Canada, what Grit is okay for the job.
@@Slim3rC10 above 1000 grit. Thanks for watching
@@TheKeenMechanic
Thanks I got some ridiculous quotes for this issue and not alot of mechanics want to work on it, so I guess I gotta roll up my sleeves and do it.
@@Slim3rC10 That's exactly why I put this video together to show people how to do it themselves🤝🏻
Amazing! I'm amazed! GG
@@newton-maitre-TV thank you
Top job. Can you say how much I'm expected to pay to have it done.
Thank you
The main dealer will charge probably about £2000 without any cleaning. MB Specialist might charge a bit less. Why not buy some tools and do it yourself whilst following my step by step tutorial🙂
@@TheKeenMechanic due to my phisical limitation I can just about change a wheel 😬.
God bless you,bro.insane job,I'm about to buy one of these Ml,this week so i watch your full video couple of times because i must do this job car have 150k ,must i do it,is crazy job,but worth it.God bless your courage,hope you're well paid
@@dorincoman3847 Thank you. Glad you enjoy my video🤝🏻
Hello , Vielen Dank für das Video. Ich habe eine Frage - möglicherweise tritt Öl in das Abgassystem ein, und ich weiß nicht, was der Grund dafür ist. Liegt das Problem am Motor oder am Turbolader? Alles andere am Fahrzeug scheint in Ordnung zu sein. Ich habe das Fahrzeug gekauft und der Verkäufer hat mir versichert, dass weder der Turbolader noch der Ölkühler defekt sind. Dennoch tritt dichter Rauch auf, wenn der Motor heiß wird. Der Motor läuft reibungslos und klingt gut. Ich habe auch etwas Öl am Einlass des Turboladers entdeckt, wie im Video gezeigt.
Hello, thank you for the video. I have a question - maybe oil is entering the exhaust system, and I don't know what the reason is. Is the problem with the engine or the turbocharger? Everything else on the vehicle appears to be fine. I bought the vehicle and the seller assured me that neither the turbocharger nor the oil cooler were defective. However, thick smoke still appears when the engine gets hot. The engine runs smoothly and sounds good. I also discovered some oil at the turbocharger inlet as shown in the video.
I have posted the translated message in English so others can read it too. It is hard to tell without inspecting the vehicle in person. Is the smoke Black or Blue/White? If it is black smoke the it is most likely not enough air to burn the diesel. If it is blue/grey/white smoke it could be oil/antifreeze coolant leak. It will be very hard for oil to pass through the combustion chamber and to end up unburnt in your exhaust system. Make sure you have no turbo boost leaks which will cause the black smoke. This ML350cdi shown in the video was working very well when idling, but had no power and smoked black due to boost leak from a sensor that was not fitted correctly and had fallen from the plastic manifold which goes to the aluminium intake manifolds. Check the engine 1st and make sure you have no obvious boost leaks. If you know somebody who has a smoke machine get him to pressure test the intake system and check for leaks. Hope this helps
@@TheKeenMechanic The smoke that comes out is blue, a lot of oil enters the exhaust system / Sometimes white smoke comes out when the engine temperature risesThe engine runs smoothly and no malfunctions appear on the screen ,But the problem is the smoke and oil in the exhaust system
@@MN-nl3kp hi
If there is nothing obvious you can replace or rebuild the turbo and see if this solves the problem. I found a company here that sold me a fully professionally rebuilt turbo for around £300 when I returned my old one. I hope the place you purchased it from offers a warranty. Check if coolant is leaking into the intake valves from the manifold. I have seen this before. This causes light coloured smoke too. Hope you get it sorted. 🤝🏻
@@TheKeenMechanic Thank you very much❤️
Omg good job how long does it take to get it done 🤔
This was my 1st experience with OM642 engine. I had big trouble removing the 3 bolts at the back of the turbo which took nearly 6 hours by itself as I had to bend and weld custom tools to loosen them up without snapping them or rounding the heads. I would say all together with all trouble, cleaning and filming took about 30hours. If I was doing it again it will be 12 to 16hrs with good detail.
@@TheKeenMechanic nothing is easy a specially on older vehicles 🤷♂️
Totally agree😮💨
Thx super video
@@TimKingu you are welcome
" just when i thought i was out, they pull me back in" Don Corleone in Godfather 3 regarding PEtrol cars -upon hearing about the busted OILCOOLER IN HIS DIESEL MERCEDES😂
Thank you very much for the video! The best one to repair my W164! Do you have any plan to come to La Rioja in Spain? I would invite you to help me.
Thanks buddy. I am glad you enjoyed the video. I would add you to the list😊 so far I have been invited in Japan, USA, Norway, Finland, England, Italy and now Spain. I wish I had the spare time to visit all the countries and help you all guys. I have a friend in Bilbao who invited me 14 years ago and still haven't visited. By the way you live in a very beautiful part of Spain🤝 I am confident you can do the job yourself just by following my tutorial💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
How much do you charge for this job??
@@VandesteegTomsich Check the comments as this is the most asked question
Can someone tell me the cost of this repair? Thx
@@Sangamalli Check the comments as this has been discussed many times on this video.
Wonder 😂 how much cost to fix this ?
Read the other comments as I have answered this question
I am considering buying this exact car tomorrow in 9/10 shape. No codes or anything. 7k qith 121,xxx miles. Is this a good deal? Or should i stay gasoline? Ive never owned a diesel but love them. Thanks!!
I love the diesels as they have a lot of torque and are much more economical. Ultimately it is your choice, best of luck with the car if you decide to purchase
How long did you soak the manifolds for with the oven cleaner?I heard oven cleaner can be bad for aluminium if you leave it on too long.
@@bobbaxter952 Oven cleaner can be bad for machined and clean flat surfaces. On clean aluminium I wouldn't leave it for more than 10-15min and then rinse with water. For the internals of the manifolds I would normally leave it overnight as it won't do much harm. Best advise is to test it a bit and see how you get on. I have had cases where I had left it for days and had no issues but it all depends on the amount of oven cleaner you use and how dirty the metal is. Wipe clean the machined clean gasket surfaces🤝🏻
What digital repair manual did you use?
Thank you.
Hi
I have access to the mercedes dealer repair manuals.
Thanks
How can I get a copy from you?
I want to make sure I’m reinstalling everything correctly.
Great video and thank you.
Sorry, you can't get it from me.
Check this website and get yourself one. Money well spent shrsl.com/43mz2
Thank you very much.
thanks
You are welcome
Hi. Thanks for your video. where about you are? I need my s class to do same things please. ta
@@madiradi9625 Please read recent comments as I have been asked this many times. Many thanks for your message
@@TheKeenMechanic ok thanks'
What spec oil does my mercedes use and how many litres? I have a 2008 E320 cdi. Thank you
Ohh man, have also replaced the seals with Purple (much stiffer ) bolted the oil cooler with 6nm, after two weeks much bigger leak. Appeard to be purple seals gone bad.. Got me another pair of Orange seals and did the job again. Any of you had this???
Oh such bad luck. I would hate to do this twice due to bad seals. I bought my purple seals from Mercedes dealer and I am aware there are many other cheap asian copies out on the market. Hope your dealer bought their seals from an approved supplier
No oil cooler new?
@@madeinthehell1622 Save yourself £200 and use the old one. The only issue is the orange o-rings that harden over time and start leaking. Same as any other oil cooler, people just replace the gaskets🤝🏻
@@madeinthehell1622 Yes the oil cooler was bought new as well, (however dont think thats the problem, even the old one was still good.)
And the 3rd bolt of the charger? 🙄🙄🙄🙄
Hi buddy, what is your question please?
I done this on my wife ml it was painfull most of the time spent was cleaning and the back does get it
I know your pain buddy, not an easy job
sa ma bien servie ! la video !
Thanks. Best of luck🤝🏻
How much is this repair ??
This was my 1st experience with OM642 engine. I had big trouble removing the 3 bolts at the back of the turbo which took nearly 6 hours by itself as I had to bend and weld custom tools to loosen them up without snapping them or rounding the heads. I would say all together with all trouble, cleaning and filming took about 30hours. If I was doing it again it will be 12 to 16hrs with good detail. I have heard others doing it for 8 hrs but I assume they did not go into such detail and cleaning. Consider yourself lucky if you get this done for under £500. Gaskets, seals, Oil, filters, coolant, cleaning chemicals and consumables increase the price even further. Hope this helps
@@TheKeenMechanic what's wrong with these compressor screws, why did it take you so many hours? what wrenches did you use? thanks
@@andrzej5484 Hi, the engine was replaced 4 years ago, the previous mechanic used the old bolts and didn't put ceramic grease on them. The 3 bolts on the back of the turbo are hard to access and I had to make special tools to allow me to remove them without stripping or rounding the heads. Had to heat every single bolt with MAPP gas torch. Got there in the end but took a long time
So, after replacing the screws with new ones, secure them somehow, e.g. with ceramic grease, so that there is no problem with unscrewing them again? If there are new screws in the turbo and manifolds, what torque should they be tightened because you are giving different values.
@@andrzej5484 I just went with good and tight on the 3 turbo to exhaust manifold and all cast iron exhaust manifolds were tightened by feel as it is too difficult to use a torque wrench. If you are reusing the old bolts put ceramic grease on them. If using brand new bolts put ceramic grease too if they don't come with it.🤝🏻
Good job done except that irritating devil's rock music....
Thanks🤭
Very impressive - a fantastic job done. Great video.
@@Orwic1 thanks🤝🏻
@@TheKeenMechanic hello, what city are you in?
@@fordeavalera9361 Hi
I am in Northern Ireland🤝🏻
What a disaster,give me an aircoold folks wagen instead,
🤭
Hey Mercedes, Dieses design ist absolut scheisse! (That design is absolute shit.)
Why couldnt you be simple snd make the engine an inline 6.
@@mattwalmer6162 I have to agree with you. Very poor oil cooler design on this engine
@TheKeenMechanic very poor oil cooler, turbo, intake, air box, and everything else design. Even their oil filter is stupid. Why not just use a spin on type filter like everyone else. This isn't 1934 anymore. Lol.
How many hours did that whole job take you? Do you think its be easier removing the whole engine and placing it on an engine stand to do the job?
I have the opportunity to buy a 2014 GL 350 Bluetech that has been well maintained with 100k, but videos on YT are scaring me. 😆
@mattwalmer6162 Hi
Hard to calculate exact hours when filming videos but I guess I spent about 12 to 14hrs with the detail I went into. Sometimes people put the scariest stories on the internet. If I were you I would go for it but bare in mind most new cars suffer from issues with AdBlue system and it could be expensive to repair if you can't do it yourself. Best of luck
@@TheKeenMechanicI'd be removing the Ad Blue DEF system right away. I'm a trucker, and all they do is cause more problems and expense. Thanks.
Truly awful vehicles.
A lot of labour to get to this cooler. Not a great design. As long as the seals last more than the warranty the MB dealer doesn't care what the customers have to do after that. The owner of the vehicle loves it and says it has been reliable in any other way aprart from an engine replacement 4 years ago which he admits is his own fault due to neglected maintenance
@TheKeenMechanic Fell out of love with Mercedes a long time ago.Once the (expensive) byword for quality but now just the same as all the other manufacturers.Overpriced and of questionable quality.
They are now installing Renault engines in the smaller class cars😮💨
@@TheKeenMechanic Daylight robbery