Every one of your videos is informative and educational the sanding tip is a thing never to be forgotten so many uses for it i sometimes watch videos more than once and still find little ideas I missed first time round 10 minute workshop I'm behind you 100% which is never just 100% and never 100% enough and never 100% wasted
Thanks for this video to explain how to use Dominoes on mitred corners. As I am a novice woodworker and new to Dominoes, knowing the correct settings will get me started on my way with minimal aggravation. I'm going to try a test tonight with these settings before trying to set up my walnut plywood carcass for several cabinets I am building. Thanks again - I find your videos to be very helpful and inspiring to be a better woodworker. :)
Also, stole your filler idea for the backside of the tray to do something similar with drawers that are in the shaker style. I'll use filler panels to make it level with the rail and stiles. That will make attaching the drawer carcass much easier.
I'm amazed at what you can accomplish in such a small shop. Thank you for sharing. You are my new Norm Abrams. He did some amazing work and a very tiny place!
Thanks! It’s an honour to be compared to ‘couple of brads’ Norm Abrams - but first, let’s talk about shop safety... I think Norm’s shop was about 10 times the size of mine though! 😂👍👍
I was watching pt10 of your cnc videos earlier, now this one. I have a small 600x400 Chinese gantry CNC which I originally bought for producing prototype PCB's as I'm an electronics engineer but I had plans for it. One of the things I do is produce my router templates and router bases on it not to mention the amount of stuff I've done for work on it and having worked in a machine shop for six years and being a fussy git, comes with my job. I find it really hard to work to less that three decimal places but I couldn't believe how accurate my little cnc is. Keep planning to do some videos but don't really have the camera set-up for it. Re what you said about a bigger unit. Unfortunately i just don't have the room for anything bigger but what I could do with an 8'x4' one.
Samurai carpenter makes the same template out of a piece of scrap and a chop saw. Just hacks it out of the ctr! Much quicker and works fine. Not saying I don’t like peters way as I do.
I've yet to buy a corner chisel but wouldn't that have been a perfect solution to squaring off the routed slots? Love that simple router template, it's a great idea.
Thanks! I have a couple of cheap corner chisels somewhere, never found them to be particularly good tbh, very easy to twist out of alignment, which is fine if you’re squaring off a lock mortise, not great when everything’s on show. If I get more requests for these I’ll try a more expensive one - or maybe I’ll have my CNC up & running by then... 🤔😯🤷♂️👍
I don’t know if I’ve ever thanked you before for putting me on to Moisture MDF I bloody love the stuff now. Just finished my huge house build and lots of stuff to build to finish off. Covers for underfloor heating manifolds, hiding pipes etc So, if I haven’t before, thank you 🙏 I would sponsor you on Patreon (I used to), but having been made redundant recently I’m having to watch the pennies. 😁 Great video. Love the bench sanding tip 😍
Great video as always. Thanks. I always chuckle when the script says “use a sharp chisel”, What, you think I have dull one I’d choose! I love it. Keep up love the videos.
Enjoyed the video as always Peter. I like your technique for getting the corner square, although I did notice the second stage of the drill out seemed to done with a jigsaw :-). Not sure I like the look of square corners, but if that is what the client wants, why not. Thank you.
10:00 I prefer to glue it on. Say, 180 on one face, 18 on the other. Labelled on the ends. I first did this for sanding walls. For here, you might want a set with sandpaper only on the ends. You could use two sizes of sandpaper, if the length of your block allows it. I prefer sizes to take the width or length of an A4 or thereabouts sheet, but you could used rolled sandpaper too.
Aye but these projects seem to drag on. Still have two lathe and a mill incomplete 3 years later. Cnc Router table is on the list too. It's a long list
Nice tray, two thoughts. You could run an 1/8" (3.17mm) bit into the corners and reduce the radius. Here, (USA) we have Spiracut bits that are used for cutting drywall/plasterboard, but they would do a good job of sharpening those corners. And, I have a number of files and rasps that have smooth surface on one or more sides, Very handy for squaring a corner.
On the base, what is the benefit of using two pieces of 6mm board over using a single 12mm piece with a rebate all around leaving a 6mm edge to go in the slot? I admit you’d need to be accurate, but surely it would be a better construction? Cheers
Still don’t get it.... you wouldn’t really need much glue if it was one piece..... the way you’ve done it, is there not potential for the glue to fail and the two pieces separate at some point? The bottom piece looked just like a filler to bring the base flush with the edges, so with a single rebated piece, it would be flush anyway? Anyway, I enjoy watching the techniques 👍
Great video as always Peter, That was my first thought too, if the bottom panel was 12mm, rebated to fit into the side panel slots it would do away with the need for an extra bottom piece and would save material and cost...
I’ll have to test this to be sure, but the glue line is definitely greater in the grooves base vs a rebated base, so I believe it to be a stronger joint. With a rebated base all that’s holding it in is the glue, by with a grooves base there also has to be a material and adhesive failure for the joint to separate. 12mm vs 2# 6mm is a wash in terms of cost, though as an aside I always have 6mm stock around, but I don’t always have 12mm as I don’t use it much. As I say, I’ll test the relative strengths of one va the other in the near future. 👍👍
Peter, The way that I imagine it, take both 6mm pieces that you have and glue them together before fitting. Then you would effectively have a 12mm piece with the rebate that I talked of. If you were to use a single piece like this, I can not see how it would or could be any weaker at all than installing a 6mm pieces then glueing another to it..... you would finish up with the same thing though in the end
Really happy to find your channel peter, I watched allot of your older videos. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and all demonstrations of tools, especially showing difference between different tools. Where do you generally find is the cheapest place to purchase FESTOOL tools? your 10 minute workshops are interesting and a great help in learning, thanks again.
Nicely executed, but since it is painted, I’m wondering if it wouldn’t be easier & faster to have glued / assembled the cutouts out of MDF in the same way that you made the template.
Another great video Peter. It would be interesting to know how much the thickness of the paint affects the squareness of the corners? If they end up even very slightly rounded where the paint has gathered through capillary action, you may have been able to get away with a very narrow router bit for the whole thing with little change to the end effect. Just a thought?
Thanks Peter. I think if I was CNC-ing them (when my CNC is up & running, of course...) I’d get away with a 3mm bit - maybe 2mm? But the spec is for square 🤷♂️👍
I love the precision and care that you take even for the smallest job, but what a faff. I wonder if the customer was aware of the extra time it takes for a squared hand hole. I hope you charged accordingly.
Did the MDF have a veneer of some sort? It didnt look like it however the outer surface were obviously more wood coloured than normal MDF sandwiched in between. I have never seen that before.
No, this is MR or Moisture Resistant MDF. It has a much harder core that regular MDF and is typically tinted green to identify it. Fire resistant MDF is usually tinted red/pink. HTH P 👍
Thanks! Square ends because that’s what the design called for. I agree, I like rounded cut-outs too - but it’s not my tray, and it’s bit yours... 🤷♂️👍
Thanks Steve. Yes, spec is for a flush base. 6mm in a groove then another glued on is way stronger than eg a 12mm base in a rebate - just think about the length of the glue-line. 👍
Christ. Can think of anything worse than square corners. Designers be designin’ I suppose. That tip about the sandpaper on the bench is sweet. Thanks for sharing it!
Beats me why one would want square handle holes: fingers aren’t square so don’t benefit from it and dirt and grime will accumulate in the corner... Personally I also prefer the rounded corner look but that’s a matter of taste
I can only surmise that anyone who would insist on squared corners and edges has never carried one of those trays loaded with anything, even briefly, much less a tray full of comestibles for an evening. The comfort and well-being of their staff is probably the last thing on their mind.
Some people are just brought up to be awkward and go against common sense, maybe to seem more intelligent? As long as you get paid let them have their square corners lol
Do you use the Hoffman dovetail system. I was wondering about pros and cons of the Hoffman system vs dominos? I use the Hoffman for certain picture framing jobs but was thinking about investing in a domino system.
Hmmm! Just watched this video, after watching the first 2 of your CNC vids. It feels like time machine stuff! How would you do those cutouts now? You could do some very interesting cutouts that would be completely machined to finish(and just a dust up with some fine emery paper!! BTW....another great video. Thankyou ;-)
Seems to me you could use your glued up template with a piece of 6mm MDF to make a one piece template. BTW I hope you are charging your "designer" a premium for that ridiculous hand work engendered by his specification for square corners. Nice work as always.
Thanks Peter. I generally use bits from wealden tool - this one’s a 1/4” bit, so it give a bit of wiggle room with a 6mm panel. Wealden Heavy duty groover - bit.ly/HD_Groover Arcbor for above - bit.ly/Arbor_8 👍
Well, not really, Keith; I mean, I appreciate the comments here and welcome them, but the only opinion that really counts in work like this is the clients. 🤷♂️👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Of course, just an ache [from who know where] to break out the forstner bit and roundover bit, lol. But hey, I was trained in fine art - aesthetics are in the eye of the customer!
Great video with excellent tips as usual. Thanks Peter. Curious what you charge for one of those boxes? Obviously a lot of time and attention to detail went into it.
Thanks Ian. No, my go-to is Polyvine PolyTen PVA - amzn.to/2HBxK66 (US: amzn.to/2rmHYL3) I’ve used all kinds and can’t tell the difference between them tbh. I was given the one in this vid - it’s just like every other 10-minute pva. 🤷♂️👍
Hiya! I almost always use Polyten PVA (10-minute PVA - seriously!) but in all honesty I’ve never found much to choose between any of the fast-grab PVA adhesives. Polyten - amzn.to/2HBxK66 (oldish link - might be worth a search once you’ve landed on Amazon to see if it’s cheaper from another seller👍)
Thank you Peter, really good video, I can't understand why your designer wants them square and the hole should have a round over to make the handles more comfortable in my opinion. Is this design over function? Love the jigs, now I would probably use real wood and cut a spline to go into the corner out of a contrasting wood and I would then be sacked by your client for not following the spec 😂
Thanks! No, I almost never get to see the finished item. I put a picture up on my instagram a while ago of the kind of finish that the guys can get on this - I'll see if I can dig it out... Here you go - this is a table, but same sprayers shop... instagram.com/p/Bl_SifWAhZ8/?
Thanks! Buy the best you can afford, but go for more cheap clamps than fewer better ones. When you have the basics covered, start investing in better. 👍👍
Why don't you make the sides of the tray with the handle in out of four pieces of MDF? i.e. Long piece on the bottom. Two short pieces with a gap between them to create the handle. Long piece on top. Similar to how you made the template - Dominoes optional. There would be no need to make a template, no router operation and no faffing about with chisels, knives or sticks with sandpaper stuck to them.
I've gotta agree with other comments , why would anyone want squared off corners rounded is less likely to collect dirt and grime and looks better in my opinion. But then I'm not a designer lol. What happened to your CNC Peter ? Perfect for making templates.
Well, don’t give up the day job to be a designer, Chris, lol! 😂 Actually hadn’t thought of using the CNC to make a template - if it can cut a template, it can probably cut the hand-holds with a minimal rounding in the corners 🤷♂️ I’ll get back to it shortly, it just takes up the whole workshop when I’m working on it, so I had to put it to one side to get some of the bigger jobs done over the last few months 🤷♂️👍
Nice one Pete. Don't you get frustrated at not seeing the thing finished? Do you ever get comments about the channel from customers, do they know about it?
Cheers Graham! If it’s something bigger that I’ve done then sometimes, but I have to be honest, my involvement with these jobs ends when they leave the workshop - just how it is. And I think I’ve had just one customer who was aware of the TH-cam side of things, so. I, never get a peep out of them them! 🤷♂️👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Quite a few years ago on some site job I used this portable morticer Rioby on oak doors - 10min with a setup lock housing is ready.Quite clean finish.Newer tested it on manmade materials unfortunately
Hey Peter, once again ahah what combination squares are you using? I’ve been watching your videos non stop because I’m in the hospital and I found your channel really cool and a lots of relevant info. But back to the squares: are they hardened steel? Do you think are a good purchase? I have one from China and it’s a piece of crap 😬
Thank you! Pretty much all mine - certainly the orange ones I use are by Bahco, a Swedish brand. Great value, and certainly square enough for my needs. 👍👍Bahco 6” combi square - amzn.to/2oumhX4 (US: amzn.to/2ouSg9k)
@@10MinuteWorkshop oh cool! They seem pretty good and it’s quite cheap as well!! When you say square enough, what you mean? Ahah can you detect any lack of squareness?
A morticer, maybe? 👍You'd need to be extremely precise in your placement, as any discrepancy would need the router template to be moved, at which point you may as well use a straight edge. And I'm not sure how clean an edge you'd get - the inside of mortices generally aren't seen. Oh, and, I don't have a morticer 😕 But I like your thinking, and if I had one I'd certainly try it, thanks! 👍👍
Knees are fine, thanks Peter. I've never been able to get a good enough finish with a file, and a multitool always chews into the corners a little too far for my liking. Many ways to do this of course, but this is my preferred way. 👍🤷♂️
@@10MinuteWorkshop actually, just a thought ... a ''safe-edge" flat file would be good here as you're only doing one side of the corner at a time... 🤔 But you have your process sorted so its all good.. 🤗 😎👍☘🍺
I’be had a couple of the cheaper ones and found them too easy to pull just out of true when you make the cut. If there are more to do, I‘ll give the Trend a try. 👍👍
I often see round cornered routing that to my eye look ugly and lazy - on panel work and reveals, but I would have said a round cornered handhold was not just acceptable but preferable.
I agree. I much prefer the handholds with rounded corners. If I was making it for myself I might be tempted to radius over the outside edges of the handhold as well so as to make the edges softer. Although as intimated ‘he who pays the piper’ gets to decide what he wants.
@@alexrains1893 I was only talking about the cut outs for the finger holes, and I was only really joking as Peter does have a CNC machine, but doesn't use it for things like this.
Idle curiosity: how much does the finished tray weigh? With the swollen finger joints I have, those handle holes would be excruciatingly uncomfortable possibly actually impossible to use, never mind the heft of the whole thing. You can't say it, obviously, but I can--your clients (and by implication their clients too) are idiots. Contrast it with Shaker design/manufacture: thoughtful comfortable and functional, but still elegant and profitable.
Am I the only one that read the thumbnail as 'Too much too little'? 😂 That tray must be purely for show, there is no way someone could carry that without the sharp corners digging into your hands!
Jeez Peter, dig out that cnc for repetitive jobs like that - I _never_ cut out odd shaped holes anymore :-) You could of course jump out and buy a Shaper Origin - cheap as chips (not :-)
If I could easily work out patrion sign up, would deffo drop some ££ on mr Millard and dare I say it ..... mr handy man as both channels are awesome Better content than sky and Netflix combined 👍👍
![Ultimate Loose Tenon Jig [video 453]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IzKHZe0YCGY/mqdefault.jpg)
![Ultimate Loose Tenon Jig [video 453]](/img/tr.png)
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It’s the little tips that you provide along with superb videography that raise your channel above most others. Thanks Peter
Every one of your videos is informative and educational the sanding tip is a thing never to be forgotten so many uses for it i sometimes watch videos more than once and still find little ideas I missed first time round 10 minute workshop I'm behind you 100% which is never just 100% and never 100% enough and never 100% wasted
Thank you! 👍👍
Every day's a school day. Nice handy we tips Pete as usual
Nice job Peter. Those trays are handy for craft projects. A nice cabinet of trays is something I think many craft people dream of.
Thanks Mark! They do look lively when they’re all sprayed up, I have to admit 👍👍
really good tip on the inside sanding!
Thanks for this video to explain how to use Dominoes on mitred corners. As I am a novice woodworker and new to Dominoes, knowing the correct settings will get me started on my way with minimal aggravation. I'm going to try a test tonight with these settings before trying to set up my walnut plywood carcass for several cabinets I am building. Thanks again - I find your videos to be very helpful and inspiring to be a better woodworker. :)
Also, stole your filler idea for the backside of the tray to do something similar with drawers that are in the shaker style. I'll use filler panels to make it level with the rail and stiles. That will make attaching the drawer carcass much easier.
Thank you! Really pleased to hear that the videos have helped! Walnut plywood project sounds amazing - send me some photos when it’s done! 👍👍
I'm amazed at what you can accomplish in such a small shop. Thank you for sharing.
You are my new Norm Abrams. He did some amazing work and a very tiny place!
Thanks! It’s an honour to be compared to ‘couple of brads’ Norm Abrams - but first, let’s talk about shop safety... I think Norm’s shop was about 10 times the size of mine though! 😂👍👍
I was watching pt10 of your cnc videos earlier, now this one. I have a small 600x400 Chinese gantry CNC which I originally bought for producing prototype PCB's as I'm an electronics engineer but I had plans for it. One of the things I do is produce my router templates and router bases on it not to mention the amount of stuff I've done for work on it and having worked in a machine shop for six years and being a fussy git, comes with my job. I find it really hard to work to less that three decimal places but I couldn't believe how accurate my little cnc is. Keep planning to do some videos but don't really have the camera set-up for it. Re what you said about a bigger unit. Unfortunately i just don't have the room for anything bigger but what I could do with an 8'x4' one.
I actually bought a 1/8” pattern bit to make the corners as small as possible. Great information as usual!
Thanks! 👍
Love that sanding tip!
is all attention to details with you Peter loved the video.
Great video Peter
I'm slowly trying to get through them all and learning lots thanks mate 😎😎
Cheers Carl! 👍
Nice, simple job on the jig! Sanding tip may come in handy sometime, too. Thanks for the great content.
Pleasure! Thanks for the kind comments! 👍👍
Making the template out of 4 pieces is brilliant. I never would have thought to make it like that.
Thanks! 👍👍
Samurai carpenter makes the same template out of a piece of scrap and a chop saw. Just hacks it out of the ctr! Much quicker and works fine. Not saying I don’t like peters way as I do.
Great attention to the details Peter and filmed with clarity, as ever! 👍
Thanks Dave! 👍
I've yet to buy a corner chisel but wouldn't that have been a perfect solution to squaring off the routed slots? Love that simple router template, it's a great idea.
Thanks! I have a couple of cheap corner chisels somewhere, never found them to be particularly good tbh, very easy to twist out of alignment, which is fine if you’re squaring off a lock mortise, not great when everything’s on show. If I get more requests for these I’ll try a more expensive one - or maybe I’ll have my CNC up & running by then... 🤔😯🤷♂️👍
I don’t know if I’ve ever thanked you before for putting me on to Moisture MDF
I bloody love the stuff now. Just finished my huge house build and lots of stuff to build to finish off. Covers for underfloor heating manifolds, hiding pipes etc
So, if I haven’t before, thank you 🙏
I would sponsor you on Patreon (I used to), but having been made redundant recently I’m having to watch the pennies. 😁
Great video. Love the bench sanding tip 😍
Thanks Graham! Really appreciate your support, and delighted to hear that my videos have helped! Cheers, Peter 👍👍
Tea please Peter! ☕
"If you are getting your whole house interior designed then might as well have a tray made as well.... why not" - How very Chiswick. :-)
😂 Chelsea this one, but yes... 😬
There are lots of tips and tricks in this video - thank you...
Too many to put in the title... 🤔🤷♂️😆😂👍
Great video as always. Thanks. I always chuckle when the script says “use a sharp chisel”, What, you think I have dull one I’d choose! I love it. Keep up love the videos.
😂😂👍👍
Enjoyed the video as always Peter. I like your technique for getting the corner square, although I did notice the second stage of the drill out seemed to done with a jigsaw :-). Not sure I like the look of square corners, but if that is what the client wants, why not. Thank you.
Thanks Bob! Ah yes, the jig-drill; special order, that one 😂👍
Really fine work peter! Its all in the details even for a small piece.
Thanks! 🤷♂️👍
Nice! Thank you for sharing!!🙌
Thanks! 👍
Nice job Peter ,last serving tray i made came with a whole tea trolly
Cheers Syd! 👍
Always a pleasure watching you Peter, tips/tricks and a wealth of knowledge from the Master :)
Thanks Martin! 👍👍
Great top tips with the sanding Peter.
Thanks David!
10:00 I prefer to glue it on. Say, 180 on one face, 18 on the other. Labelled on the ends. I first did this for sanding walls. For here, you might want a set with sandpaper only on the ends.
You could use two sizes of sandpaper, if the length of your block allows it. I prefer sizes to take the width or length of an A4 or thereabouts sheet, but you could used rolled sandpaper too.
Another extremely helpful video.
Another very very very interesting and learnful video. Thank you so much!
Thanks Frits, 👍
Could do with a little scroll saw for those square cut outs. Much quicker if needed in quantity
Or just get my CNC up & running 🤷♂️😂👍
Aye but these projects seem to drag on. Still have two lathe and a mill incomplete 3 years later.
Cnc Router table is on the list too. It's a long list
This one just popped in!
Nice tray, two thoughts. You could run an 1/8" (3.17mm) bit into the corners and reduce the radius. Here, (USA) we have Spiracut bits that are used for cutting drywall/plasterboard, but they would do a good job of sharpening those corners. And, I have a number of files and rasps that have smooth surface on one or more sides, Very handy for squaring a corner.
Thanks! Never been able to get a good enough finish with a file, myself, and the design spec calls for square corners🤷♂️👍
Thanks for all your fantastic vids, as a way of support I've just joined your patreon. Keep up the great work,it's very much appreciated.
Thanks Neil, and welcome! 👍👍
On the base, what is the benefit of using two pieces of 6mm board over using a single 12mm piece with a rebate all around leaving a 6mm edge to go in the slot?
I admit you’d need to be accurate, but surely it would be a better construction?
Cheers
No, it’s a stronger joint with 2 pieces - think about the length of the glue line of a rebate vs a grooved 6mm plus another 6mm beneath. 👍
Still don’t get it.... you wouldn’t really need much glue if it was one piece.....
the way you’ve done it, is there not potential for the glue to fail and the two pieces separate at some point? The bottom piece looked just like a filler to bring the base flush with the edges, so with a single rebated piece, it would be flush anyway?
Anyway, I enjoy watching the techniques 👍
Great video as always Peter, That was my first thought too, if the bottom panel was 12mm, rebated to fit into the side panel slots it would do away with the need for an extra bottom piece and would save material and cost...
I’ll have to test this to be sure, but the glue line is definitely greater in the grooves base vs a rebated base, so I believe it to be a stronger joint. With a rebated base all that’s holding it in is the glue, by with a grooves base there also has to be a material and adhesive failure for the joint to separate. 12mm vs 2# 6mm is a wash in terms of cost, though as an aside I always have 6mm stock around, but I don’t always have 12mm as I don’t use it much. As I say, I’ll test the relative strengths of one va the other in the near future. 👍👍
Peter, The way that I imagine it, take both 6mm pieces that you have and glue them together before fitting. Then you would effectively have a 12mm piece with the rebate that I talked of.
If you were to use a single piece like this, I can not see how it would or could be any weaker at all than installing a 6mm pieces then glueing another to it.....
you would finish up with the same thing though in the end
I like your style. Nice editing. Subscribed.
Thanks, and welcome! 👍👍
Who’s the serving tray for Peter, the BFG?!?! Great tips for the domino, can’t wait to try it😀😀
Thanks Leo! I think they must have a fairly beefy butler 🤔🤷♂️👍
😂😂😂
Really happy to find your channel peter, I watched allot of your older videos. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and all demonstrations of tools, especially showing difference between different tools. Where do you generally find is the cheapest place to purchase FESTOOL tools? your 10 minute workshops are interesting and a great help in learning, thanks again.
Nicely executed, but since it is painted, I’m wondering if it wouldn’t be easier & faster to have glued / assembled the cutouts out of MDF in the same way that you made the template.
Already have a tea thanks!
I can see those inside corners is where I would rush things with a jigsaw and end up rebuilding with 2 pack!
😂 👍
Another great video Peter.
It would be interesting to know how much the thickness of the paint affects the squareness of the corners? If they end up even very slightly rounded where the paint has gathered through capillary action, you may have been able to get away with a very narrow router bit for the whole thing with little change to the end effect.
Just a thought?
Thanks Peter. I think if I was CNC-ing them (when my CNC is up & running, of course...) I’d get away with a 3mm bit - maybe 2mm? But the spec is for square 🤷♂️👍
There must be a good reason not to use a corner chisel?
I love the precision and care that you take even for the smallest job, but what a faff. I wonder if the customer was aware of the extra time it takes for a squared hand hole. I hope you charged accordingly.
Thanks! Yes, they were definitely aware of it when they got the bill, lol! 😂👍
Very interesting! Thanks for the good tips.
Did the MDF have a veneer of some sort? It didnt look like it however the outer surface were obviously more wood coloured than normal MDF sandwiched in between. I have never seen that before.
No, this is MR or Moisture Resistant MDF. It has a much harder core that regular MDF and is typically tinted green to identify it. Fire resistant MDF is usually tinted red/pink. HTH P 👍
Black with one, thanks mate. 😉
Some handy little tips in there, mate. 👍🏽
Cheers.
Cheers Bill! ☕️👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop
Ha, the tea is perfect mate. 😆👍🏽
Nice work, some great detail tips.
Thanks!
Nice video. Why not leave rounded ends? I’m looking at a try here with rounded finger holes which looks good.
Thanks! Square ends because that’s what the design called for. I agree, I like rounded cut-outs too - but it’s not my tray, and it’s bit yours... 🤷♂️👍
Hi Peter, some excellent tips as usual. Presumably, the base needed to be flush? But why a sub-base? Why not a rebate and a single piece of MDF?
Thanks Steve. Yes, spec is for a flush base. 6mm in a groove then another glued on is way stronger than eg a 12mm base in a rebate - just think about the length of the glue-line. 👍
I'm cutting mine on a cnc. Fortunately no requirement for 90 degree inside corners.
Nice! 👍
Christ. Can think of anything worse than square corners. Designers be designin’ I suppose.
That tip about the sandpaper on the bench is sweet. Thanks for sharing it!
Cheers Frank! 👍👍
Nice work Peter.
Thanks Benedict! 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop no worries!
Frank Howarth’s finger holes are awesome.
You know, if you have a CNC 😝
Don’t start... 😆🤷♂️👍
Beats me why one would want square handle holes: fingers aren’t square so don’t benefit from it and dirt and grime will accumulate in the corner... Personally I also prefer the rounded corner look but that’s a matter of taste
I'd assume that if you can afford a custom tray, you've probably got a cleaner ;-)
Probably another hours work to do square openings, hey ho more money in your pocket.
I can only surmise that anyone who would insist on squared corners and edges has never carried one of those trays loaded with anything, even briefly, much less a tray full of comestibles for an evening. The comfort and well-being of their staff is probably the last thing on their mind.
Well, the designer’s a ‘she’ if that makes any difference...🤷♂️
Some people are just brought up to be awkward and go against common sense, maybe to seem more intelligent? As long as you get paid let them have their square corners lol
Thanks perfectly timed
Cheers Graham! 👍
Do you use the Hoffman dovetail system. I was wondering about pros and cons of the Hoffman system vs dominos? I use the Hoffman for certain picture framing jobs but was thinking about investing in a domino system.
Never heard of it I’m sorry - will have to take a look, thanks! 👍👍
Hmmm! Just watched this video, after watching the first 2 of your CNC vids. It feels like time machine stuff! How would you do those cutouts now? You could do some very interesting cutouts that would be completely machined to finish(and just a dust up with some fine emery paper!! BTW....another great video. Thankyou ;-)
It’s one of the few things I might find the CNC useful for - except this video was the first and last time I needed to make those cuts! 🤷♂️👍
Seems to me you could use your glued up template with a piece of 6mm MDF to make a one piece template. BTW I hope you are charging your "designer" a premium for that ridiculous hand work engendered by his specification for square corners. Nice work as always.
Hi Peter, great video as always. What grooving bit are you using? Your 6mm mdf fits really nicely into a groov. What brand?
Thanks
Thanks Peter. I generally use bits from wealden tool - this one’s a 1/4” bit, so it give a bit of wiggle room with a 6mm panel. Wealden Heavy duty groover - bit.ly/HD_Groover
Arcbor for above - bit.ly/Arbor_8
👍
Peter Millard thanks for this 👍
From the comments it looks like the customer is the only person who likes square holes. Tough break Peter.
Well, not really, Keith; I mean, I appreciate the comments here and welcome them, but the only opinion that really counts in work like this is the clients. 🤷♂️👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Of course, just an ache [from who know where] to break out the forstner bit and roundover bit, lol. But hey, I was trained in fine art - aesthetics are in the eye of the customer!
Like how you made your jig mate,very simple but very effective.Pity you ain't got a morticer mate
Thanks! Not sure what I’d do with a Mortimer for the other 99% of the time tbh! 😂👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Make some more trays mate. LOL
Great tip on the domino! does my nut in trying to get that right without bursting through, the amount of 'practice' pieces i get through, thanks
Pleasure! 👍👍
Great video with excellent tips as usual. Thanks Peter. Curious what you charge for one of those boxes? Obviously a lot of time and attention to detail went into it.
Thanks Jeff! These are kind of done as a favour at around £150, but it keeps everyone happy! 👍
Great info again my question is about the adhesive you used is that your go to one? If so what is it as there are so many out there
Many thanks Ian
Thanks Ian. No, my go-to is Polyvine PolyTen PVA - amzn.to/2HBxK66 (US: amzn.to/2rmHYL3) I’ve used all kinds and can’t tell the difference between them tbh. I was given the one in this vid - it’s just like every other 10-minute pva. 🤷♂️👍
Hi peter what glue are you using on your doors. Want to be able to sand and assemble and finish things the same day lol
Hiya! I almost always use Polyten PVA (10-minute PVA - seriously!) but in all honesty I’ve never found much to choose between any of the fast-grab PVA adhesives. Polyten - amzn.to/2HBxK66 (oldish link - might be worth a search once you’ve landed on Amazon to see if it’s cheaper from another seller👍)
Thank you Peter, really good video, I can't understand why your designer wants them square and the hole should have a round over to make the handles more comfortable in my opinion. Is this design over function? Love the jigs, now I would probably use real wood and cut a spline to go into the corner out of a contrasting wood and I would then be sacked by your client for not following the spec 😂
Cheers Ray! Yes, it’s all about making to the spec on these jobs. Just how it is. 🤷♂️👍
Like that sanding tip on the bench Peter , any images of the finished article?
Thanks! No, I almost never get to see the finished item. I put a picture up on my instagram a while ago of the kind of finish that the guys can get on this - I'll see if I can dig it out... Here you go - this is a table, but same sprayers shop... instagram.com/p/Bl_SifWAhZ8/?
Great video, any suggestions on buying clamps?
Thanks! Buy the best you can afford, but go for more cheap clamps than fewer better ones. When you have the basics covered, start investing in better. 👍👍
Great video although I would have preferred the hand holds to be rounded and not squared off.
Thanks! Ywes, woukld have been my preference too, but then I wasnt the client - and neither were you, lol! 😂👍
Why don't you make the sides of the tray with the handle in out of four pieces of MDF?
i.e.
Long piece on the bottom.
Two short pieces with a gap between them to create the handle.
Long piece on top.
Similar to how you made the template - Dominoes optional.
There would be no need to make a template, no router operation and no faffing about with chisels, knives or sticks with sandpaper stuck to them.
Good idea, except It’s going to be sprayed in a hi-gloss, so I don’t want any joins in there. 🤷♂️ Well worth a test though. 👍👍
Yes ,first!!
Nice work curious how much it cost with the time it takes to make small projects like that
Thanks! And hey, if you have to ask... 🤷♂️😆👍
I've gotta agree with other comments , why would anyone want squared off corners rounded is less likely to collect dirt and grime and looks better in my opinion. But then I'm not a designer lol. What happened to your CNC Peter ? Perfect for making templates.
Well, don’t give up the day job to be a designer, Chris, lol! 😂 Actually hadn’t thought of using the CNC to make a template - if it can cut a template, it can probably cut the hand-holds with a minimal rounding in the corners 🤷♂️ I’ll get back to it shortly, it just takes up the whole workshop when I’m working on it, so I had to put it to one side to get some of the bigger jobs done over the last few months 🤷♂️👍
Nice one Pete. Don't you get frustrated at not seeing the thing finished? Do you ever get comments about the channel from customers, do they know about it?
Great questions
Cheers Graham! If it’s something bigger that I’ve done then sometimes, but I have to be honest, my involvement with these jobs ends when they leave the workshop - just how it is. And I think I’ve had just one customer who was aware of the TH-cam side of things, so. I, never get a peep out of them them! 🤷♂️👍
Hi like your videos just quick question is the jig over sized to allow for the guide wheel on router bit or are you using a flush trim bit
It's a template bit - bearing guided at the top. Flush trim bits have the bearing at the bottom 👍
Is there a common purpose to the tray?
It’s just a tray, for tray-like things. Drinks? Snacks? Mail? 🤷♂️
Vecturo with plunge base or morticing machine
Don’t own either 🤷♂️ Never been happy with the plunge from a multi-tool tbh, when I need a decent finish. What’s the finish from a morticer like?
@@10MinuteWorkshop Quite a few years ago on some site job I used this portable morticer Rioby on oak doors - 10min with a setup lock housing is ready.Quite clean finish.Newer tested it on manmade materials unfortunately
Hey Peter, once again ahah what combination squares are you using? I’ve been watching your videos non stop because I’m in the hospital and I found your channel really cool and a lots of relevant info. But back to the squares: are they hardened steel? Do you think are a good purchase? I have one from China and it’s a piece of crap 😬
Thank you! Pretty much all mine - certainly the orange ones I use are by Bahco, a Swedish brand. Great value, and certainly square enough for my needs. 👍👍Bahco 6” combi square - amzn.to/2oumhX4 (US: amzn.to/2ouSg9k)
@@10MinuteWorkshop oh cool! They seem pretty good and it’s quite cheap as well!! When you say square enough, what you mean? Ahah can you detect any lack of squareness?
I mean I’m not a precision engineer, but compared to my decades-old Moore & Wright engineers squares they seem accurate.👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop that’s great for me, I’ll have a shot on those squares, for the price can’t go that wrong 😁 thanks a lot for the help!!
I'm a novice, so this isn't advice :) But could you use a tenon cutter to cut the holes before the jigsaw and routing and start with square corners?
A morticer, maybe? 👍You'd need to be extremely precise in your placement, as any discrepancy would need the router template to be moved, at which point you may as well use a straight edge. And I'm not sure how clean an edge you'd get - the inside of mortices generally aren't seen. Oh, and, I don't have a morticer 😕 But I like your thinking, and if I had one I'd certainly try it, thanks! 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Yeah, morticer is the word I was looking for! But fair point the insides don't have to be pretty with a tenon.
What make was the jig saw?
It’s an old Festool Trion👍
Would a square file not be better for the drawer-pull slots Pete... or even a multitool ?
Hows the knees this week ?
😎👍☘🍺
Knees are fine, thanks Peter. I've never been able to get a good enough finish with a file, and a multitool always chews into the corners a little too far for my liking. Many ways to do this of course, but this is my preferred way. 👍🤷♂️
@@10MinuteWorkshop actually, just a thought ... a ''safe-edge" flat file would be good here as you're only doing one side of the corner at a time... 🤔
But you have your process sorted so its all good.. 🤗
😎👍☘🍺
How about a Trend corner chisel -I use one sometimes seems to work😎
I’be had a couple of the cheaper ones and found them too easy to pull
just out of true when you make the cut. If there are more to do, I‘ll give the Trend a try. 👍👍
Like rounded holes better, but what the customer wants they will get.
Yep. 👍👍
Why would someone want a tray with sharp arris's? You have some strange people living in the Metropolis Peter!👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
In truth Alan, I’ve no idea where the ultimate clients live. Or how their butlers feel about trays with sharp arrisses... 😆🤷♂️😂👍
'Wrecked-angular' holes?
Square holes 🤔 next video 'round pegs' 👍🤣😎
Good idea! I’ll add it to the list! 😂👍👍
Makes me think of Neil Pask's most recent video.
@@LostWhits yeah he's been a busy pask, beats me what's wrong with biscuits a domino's or even a dab of glue and some nails🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
I often see round cornered routing that to my eye look ugly and lazy - on panel work and reveals, but I would have said a round cornered handhold was not just acceptable but preferable.
Me too - but it isn’t my tray, and what I prefer (or you, come to that) doesn’t count for much, sadly! 😆 🤷♂️👍
I agree. I much prefer the handholds with rounded corners. If I was making it for myself I might be tempted to radius over the outside edges of the handhold as well so as to make the edges softer. Although as intimated ‘he who pays the piper’ gets to decide what he wants.
Nice 👈
Thanks! 👍
Why dont you use 12mm MDF for base and run a rebate around the edge? 🤷🏾♂️
Because a 6mm base glued into a groove with another 6mm base glued onto it and around the lip is stronger. 👍
A rabbet would work better.
@@10MinuteWorkshop groove the sides & rebate the base
Why do you not own a chisel mortise machine?
Because this would have been the first time I used it in 20 years of Woodworking professionally. 🤷♂️👍
You should get a cnc machine to do this with!! 😜
Oh, don’t start... 😂😆🤷♂️👍
I actually fail to see how a CNC would help here, especially with the mitres.
@@alexrains1893 I was only talking about the cut outs for the finger holes, and I was only really joking as Peter does have a CNC machine, but doesn't use it for things like this.
@@matthewwhitley That has gone right over my head.
Idle curiosity: how much does the finished tray weigh? With the swollen finger joints I have, those handle holes would be excruciatingly uncomfortable possibly actually impossible to use, never mind the heft of the whole thing.
You can't say it, obviously, but I can--your clients (and by implication their clients too) are idiots. Contrast it with Shaker design/manufacture: thoughtful comfortable and functional, but still elegant and profitable.
Weighs about 6 kilos, all-in and unladen. 👍
#jollyglossycolor
Am I the only one that read the thumbnail as 'Too much too little'? 😂
That tray must be purely for show, there is no way someone could carry that without the sharp corners digging into your hands!
Oh, I don’t think the owners will be carrying it themselves... 🤔🤷♂️👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop was that a humble brag about your clientele? 😂
I know exactly how to do that,,but it never seems to work out for me fella,! 😂😂😂😂👍👍👏🏻👏🏻🇬🇧
Jeez Peter, dig out that cnc for repetitive jobs like that - I _never_ cut out odd shaped holes anymore :-)
You could of course jump out and buy a Shaper Origin - cheap as chips (not :-)
Oh, don’t start! Yes, almost the perfect tool for the job - it still with rounded corners. 🤔🤷♂️👍
If I could easily work out patrion sign up, would deffo drop some ££ on mr Millard and dare I say it ..... mr handy man as both channels are awesome
Better content than sky and Netflix combined 👍👍
Thank you! All links are in the video description 👍👍