I Make an MFT top with the LR32 rail [video 424][gifted/ad**]
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ต.ค. 2020
- In this weeks video I make a custom MFT top with just the LR32 guiderail and router - no CNC, no purchased jigs or templates Enjoy! #MFT #FestoolMFT, #LR32
p.s. For the record, I asked Tim at www.hardwoodoffcuts.co.uk/ how long it takes his £20k CNC to cut an MFT top, and he reckons it's about 8 minutes to do 3 tops from a full sheet, so roughly three times as fast as doing it this way. OTOH, while the LR32 set isn't cheap, it's not £20k either... 🤷♂️👍
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Other videos mentioned:-
All my tracksaw-related videos are in a playlist here - bit.ly/TracksawWorkshop
182 Festool MFT - • Festool MFT #182
183 MFT follow-on - • MFT follow up #183
372 MFT top replacement - • Festool MFT Replacemen...
415 Plywood square - • A plywood square that'...
422 Square Cuts: MFT or Rail Square? • Square cuts: MFT or Ra...
035a Rail Jigs - • Rail jigs #035A
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Used/featured in this video:-
LR 32 complete set - amzn.to/2HfhZlW (US: amzn.to/2ThV1N6)
LR32 sled - amzn.to/2TdqhNk
LR32 rail - amzn.to/2INDt9G
Contact Benchdogs for the 32mm rail stop - bit.ly/raildogs
Festool 491072 “20mm” router bit (8mm shaft!!) - amzn.to/3jnZGYu (US: 🤷♂️)
Festool rail clamps - Festool lever clamp - amzn.to/2pOohLD (US: amzn.to/2pnFZIM)
Festool OF 1010 router - amzn.to/2tBmXk9 (US: amzn.to/2tigRT6)
Festool 8mm collet - amzn.to/3kkkL7H (US: amzn.to/37wDx8k)
3rd party replacement MFT top - amzn.to/34CSulW
Festool replacement MFT top - amzn.to/2Gz9KAF
Trend MFT router jig - amzn.to/34wSp3b
Benchdogs rail square - bit.ly/bench-dogs
UJK Rail clips - amzn.to/34xSgwy (US: nope, sorry)
Benchdogs Rail Dogs - bit.ly/bench-dogs
Festool TS55 Tracksaw - amzn.to/2pGvzDS (US: amzn.to/2oOgGhw)
Festool lever clamp - amzn.to/2pOohLD (US: amzn.to/2pnFZIM)
Festool Midi extractor - amzn.to/2tCIN3Q (US: amzn.to/2rKNIOx)
Bessey Duo Klamp - amzn.to/2tsSWQs (US:amzn.to/2sVaRBH)
Hultafors Talmeter tape measure - amzn.to/2pHwnbH (US: amzn.to/2oqLQc9)
Moldex 6810 in-ear defenders - amzn.to/2P2c5nP (US:amzn.to/2LgIsye)
Mirock square - etsy.me/2MC0RT
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Other useful gear…
Festool MFT - amzn.to/2x49HHE (US: amzn.to/2J25aKy)
Festool PDC 18/4 - amzn.to/2s3J0eq (US: amzn.to/2tWUHEL)
Festool Granat abrasive - amzn.to/2A3c1vW (US: amzn.to/2gPAAUz)
Festool RTS 400 - amzn.to/2x6zGZW (US: amzn.to/2i84yXn)
Spax screws - amzn.to/2oYWydc (US: amzn.to/2oOjkDT)
Festool ETS 150/5 - amzn.to/2sapsq9 (US: amzn.to/2ssbZgq)
Festool CTL Sys - amzn.to/2sKa2t3 (US: amzn.to/2tCvVdZ)
Festool CTL SYS Bags - amzn.to/2G9eFVd (US: amzn.to/2GduBpo)
Trend Air Stealth Facemask - amzn.to/2zah0P6 (US: amzn.to/2T5ww6X)
Bahco 6” combi square - amzn.to/2oumhX4 (US: amzn.to/2ouSg9k)
Silicone brush set - amzn.to/2guo6Sm (US: amzn.to/2yEWbZI)
Silicone brush (single) - amzn.to/2l5rNTD (US: amzn.to/2zqFaQl)
Polyvine PolyTen PVA - amzn.to/2svT03N (US: amzn.to/2rmHYL3) - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
![3 MFT Tops, 3 MFT jigs [Video 498]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/9DhLQPrjnik/mqdefault.jpg)
![3 MFT Tops, 3 MFT jigs [Video 498]](/img/tr.png)
![A plywood square that's accurate, cheap and easy to make. [video 415]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/aNjO4SBe5kw/mqdefault.jpg)
Hi, this is probably only the second of your video’s I have seen. I absolutely like your pace, the calmth at wich you are able to explain with, the accuracy of your work at the one hand and the relativity of it all (incl the no/need for accessory tools) on the other! I will watch more of this stuf! Thank you.
Thanks, and welcome! I appreciate you taking the time to make such a positive comment! 👍👍
I made a 2400 x 900 table top and never considered anything other than a router to plunge the holes. The prospect of faffing around with a drill was not an alluring one. Modesty forbids my extoling the excellence of the final product, but suffice to say, with a wee bit of nous and a lot of care, great things can be accomplished. Now armed with my amazing unpatented MDF template and indexing system, I too am ready to engage that £20,000 CNC in combat!
Thank you Peter, it worked great my second go around. My rail dogs slipped my first crack at it but I really tightened them up the second time and the result was perfect. The long sides definitely need to be exactly parallel like you mentioned. Thanks again for sharing this great video - saved me a fortune on not having to buy a MFT table.
Cheers Chris! Good to hear it worked for you! 👍👍
Clever yet relatively simple approach to getting an accurate array of holes into a new sheet of MDF. It also demonstrates there there are many decent methods of doing this, except the one constant largely responsible for the outcome is basic human error. You really need to think things through and pay attention to the factors that can throw you off, like those loose dog rails or whatever. I'm in the process now of processing a sheet of valchromat into a MFT top, and it may NOT get screwed up. I'm kinda driving myself nuts trying to decide which method to use, but I figure I'm have to experiment first on a sheet of mdf and then see how it goes.
Thank you Peter for the entertainment and inspiration, as always- you're an awesome teacher. All the best.
The great part of your videos is you make it so simple to understand especially for the likes of me. Yes the lr32 is pricey but you get what you pay for. Thanks Peter
Cheers Glenn! Yes, the LR32 isn't cheap, but it does a great job! 👍
I bought a Festool LR32 long ago; to make shelf holes in cabinets. Never thought about using it to make a new MFT table top. Thank you for showing us how to do it kind Sir. I shall be doing it soon.
I do not own a LR32 but have used Lego bricks (not joking) to achieve similar results. The Lego bricks are produced very accurately and you can use them (together with any standard rail guide by any manufacturer) to drill a very accurate grid.
Ha! That’s genius! Serious question - does Lego adhere to the 32mm principle, or do you get a different spacing with it? Thanks! 👍👍
Can you expand on how you use the lego bricks? A diagram would be really useful.
@@10MinuteWorkshop Hi Peter, just checked & a 12 stud long Lego piece is 95.85mm, (approx), so not far off.
@@skatemaniac actually it's pretty simple. You set a fixed stop at one end of the rail guide and use a number of Lego bricks to get the desired spacing. 1 Lego unit is approximately 7.9 mm, so you can get a variety of different spacings.
@@tobiasruland4553 this needs a nice video 😀
Love your craftsmanship. You make things look easy. Cheers
Thank you! 👍
Peter, your videos get better and better! And whilst your "holy" rail isn't cheap, it is usable for lots of other stuff, so this is a great way to justify the expenditure. Brilliant, and of course brilliant fun, too
Cheers Simon! Yes, the holey rail is a significant outlay - but a lot less than a CNC that's capable of this! 👍
Thanks Peter for your wonderful tutorials! I just used your process for my 1075mm by 2000mm assembly table top and it turned out great thanks to this and your LR32 setting jigs 🙂
The only issue I had was my LR32 rail is the FS1400 so I had to get creative making the jig holes down the parallel edges of the top. In the end I'm very happy with the finished product.
Thanks Eric! Glad to hear it went well for you! 🙌👍
Hi Pete
Just catching up on some of your older videos mate.
I just love how your so laidback and make thing look so easy
You have got to be one of the best woodworkers on TH-cam mate
Looking forward to your next video
Like I have said before Pete
I can see you costing me a lot of money lol 😝 👍👍👍👍
Hey Carl. Very kind of you to say, and much appreciated! And remember - every video comes with a wallet-warning! 😂👍
I've been dithering about which method I should use to achieving equidistant and perpendicular rows of 20mm holes in a 4'x8' top. Since I have a 32mm rail, I'm all lined out. Once again one of your videos has made the choice clear, easy, and accurate. Thank you.
Brilliant! Thank you so much for sharing. ..and now I definitely need to get the LR-32!
Thanks! 👍
Great job Peter, wish I’d seen this work bench before I retired it would of been handy and saved my knees ,have a great new year and stay safe !
Thanks! You too! 👍
Thanks again
Your videos are always a joy to watch ...
Thanks! 👍
Genius !!
Considering to expand my workbench area, which requires several MFT Tabletop.... I think I'll consider using thi method.
Thanks for Sharing as always..
Great work. Again. Its really cool to look your smart way of working! Thx...
Thanks! 👍👍
Thank you very much, Peter !
It works fine !!!
Nicely done Peter 😁. 7 minutes... now that is impressive 👏👏. My first venture in to an MFT Was a few years ago now, I made two quite swanky roll cabinets for my Festool boxes that also doubled up as infeed and out feed tables for my tablesaw. With funky torsion box tops.... then I went and drilled the holes with 100mm centres 😔😔. Oh the shame of it all. Thanks for the video Peter 😁👍.
Cheers Frank! Yes, I was surprised how fast it went when I wasn’t stopping to take pictures! 😂👍
Great job….. thanks for sharing!
As a home user on a fixed income I can not justify any Festool gear. Still fun to watch.
Thank you for an excellent idea and demonstration with the LR32! The idea was wonderful, my issue was getting the correct bit. My Festool bit 20mm hinge boring bit was a little too large at 20.05mm, and I am not a fan of oversized holes. Since I do not have a "machinist friend" I took my Festool 20mm hinge boring bit (that is slightly oversized) clamped it in my drill that is parallel to the table and used a diamond impregnated sharpening stone recessed into some stock for security and stability. I had the drill turn very slow and with the diamond stone secure in the stock, I had excellent control over the pressure of the diamond stone against the bit. With such a small amount to take off the bit diameter it did not take much to get it to a perfect 20mm, carefully double checking with digital calipers a couple of thousandths of an inch (.01mm) at a time. After I had the bit corrected, following your directions was the "easy" part. Thank you for your excellent videos!
Thanks! TBH, that's only a very slightly less sophisticated way of getting the same result as my engineer pal! Good job! 🙌 👍
Nice job Peter, I really like this method and very easily repeatable
Cheers Ross! 👍👍
Excellent video as always Peter. Very neat approach to the job and beautiful accuracy too. 👍👍👍 Yes, it was easier to watch than explain 😉
Haha, thanks Bob! Hope you’re doing OK down under. Stay safe & take care. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thanks Peter, health wise all is good, business is slowly recovering. News from Britain is a bit limited down here, but I thought I saw that you are facing a second wave, so you also stay safe and take care.
Well that certainly is in record time, 7 minutes! woohoo 👌🏽
Good job mate, thanks for sharing 👍🏽
Cheers Bill! Yes, I was amazed how fast that went, when I'm not stopping to take pictures! 😂👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop
ahh, yes, the dreaded solo maker/videographer...
insanely time consuming that business! 😳
Yeah, just as well it's so profitable... 🤣🤣 🤣🤣 🤣🤣
@@10MinuteWorkshop
hmmm, rolling in the dough!
😆😆bwhahaha😆😆
Nice job again Peter. Like the way you think about things. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks Jon! 👍
Watched many of your videos now Peter and with everything you make it’s impressive how easy you make accuracy look and annoying at the same time! 😂
You also show just how much can be made from owning little more than a Festool track saw! 😂 Which will be my next purchase as we’re starting a pretty large remodel of our house in April and I’ll be fitting the kitchen and making wardrobes etc etc later this year, was considering a table saw too but think one good track saw will cover all bases for me.
Thanks for your effort with any video as it’s a time consuming thing to do but a lot of people, including myself, learn a lot of tips from yourself and others. 👍
Thanks George! Much appreciated, and very best wishes from London! 🙌 👍
I'm not new to woodworking, but have only recently come across the MFT jig system. If I need it I will make another one, but I cheated and bought just the table ready done in ply and double sided some rubber strip underneath to stop it sliding. I used to dread tying to cut sheet square and can't believe how much easier it is now to cut MDF and ply square using my cheap tracksaw instead of a workmate, clamps and a jig saw. My workshop is small, but I think I could now cut an 8 x 4 sheet indoors instead of waiting for suitable weather. Thanks for your videos.
Thanks! It’s one of the things I wished I’d had when I was first setting up. So simple, yet so useful! 👍
Great first part, waiting for the rest of the portable workbench 🥳
Soon, grasshopper. 😆😂👍👍
Thanku Peter,very informative and inspiring
Glad you enjoyed it 👍
Excellent Peter, right off to make one, As always .. thanks and stay safe
Thanks Paul! 👍👍
Looking forward to seeing the bench!
Coming soon!👍
Fair play Peter, I have watched a few videos on how to make the perfect MFT top none are simple or cheap, yours is actually quiet genius, no doubt this is going to be one of those videos with a few million views
Cheers Gerard. Fingers crossed! 😂👍👍
Slowly getting there. Only 960.000 to go 😁.
Ha. That’s almost the same way I have made MFT / Paulk tops for years. Nice Work Sir!
Great video! I had to do two versions of my custom MFT table. The second one being with the PARF Guide Mk2. And you are correct, it did take a lot longer to do. Dead accurate however. My experience with making these is that one has to check EVERY HOLE for square. I am glad I did this on my first top because about half way through, everything went out of square and the top was worthless for precision work. I still have the first top and will turn it into a non precision assembly table (30in x 60in). The other side note is that I haven't gotten around to fitting just the side pieces and other hardware to implement the Festool guide rail system on their MFT table. You have shown that just lifting the guide rail between cuts is far more efficient than jiggling pieces of wood from underneath the guiderail after cutting. It is about $150 US dollars worth of parts from the company that does spare Festool parts. Regards.
Thanks! 👍👍
I d really would like to see how that 7 Minute drill szene with the offcuts actually worked please
Superb video Peter. Superb.
Thanks Philip! 👍
Wow thats great stuff. I will totally be doing this when I have to replace my top!
Thanks! 👍
Nicely done! Another TH-camr I watch calls the router and jigs his portable CNC. Good timing on the video. I was just thinking how I could use my LR32 to make a new top.
Thanks! And timing is everything! 👍
Great video, Cheers!
Thanks! 👍
When I use this process, I use tape to block off the holes where I don't want to drill. More foolproof than drilling to marks.
And yes, I love the use of the LR32 rail.
Thanks! 👍
I really like this method and I will need to try it out soon. I recently got my hands on the LR32 system, and I have previously wasted too much money on other MFT jigs. Woodpeckers and Trends MFT jigs have produced poor results for me with dog holes that aren’t square.
Great to know, than. For sharing.
thanks for sharing great job
Thank you! 👍
At 9:30, using only 2 pins won't confirm squareness as the board can shift slightly, you should use 3 to create a right angle. Great method for creating an mft top nonetheless.
Love your vids!!!
Thanks! 👍
Did my own 60” x 36” MFT top by using the Parf Guide System MK2. Took me about 2-3 hours to do it including chamfering each hole by using the Parf chamfering tool. Your method looks easier and faster... too bad I don’t have a Festool router (yet!). Anyways, great video!
Thanks! Yes, the PGS Mk2 is a good, accurate system - but not fast. 👍
Brilliant!
Thanks! 👍👍
Don’t have any festools but that was still great to see. Luvly jubbly as you said....
Thank you! 👍
Fantastic idea. Now I just have to bodge together a similar one with my old Bosch router and parkside rails 😆
Nice! Let me know how that goes... 😬
@@10MinuteWorkshop will do Peter. I am half way through building my kitchen with your help 👍🏻 loose tenon shaker style doors and drawers all cut with a parkside tracksaw. Never would’ve had the confidence without binge watching all your vids! So cheers mate!
You’re brilliant!!!! Btw: I love your “heeh heeh.. chuckle” 😉
I don’t have an MFT but do have the festool tracksaw. Any pointers on why the MFT should be a must for me?
Since I don’t have the router track system, would you consider I make a grid with the holes using a computer software / word or the like. Placing the holes at specific distance and then printing it as “a paper template” laying (gluing) to guide the cuts on the mdf? Just thinking on how I can generate a good template with “what I have” 😉
Thank you.
very good!!! thank you.
Thanks! 👍
Very clever Peter!
Cheers Steve! 👍👍
excellent , Peter
Thanks John! 👍
Looking forward to seeing your bench
I can see why it cost more. It’s heaps faster once you have it set up. Thanks for replying and sharing Peter
Nice Work Peter
Thank you! 👍
Hi, verry clean and easy technique!!! After drilling the first row of the refenece holes at the edge of the plate, maybe you flip the plate 180° via the long side - instead of change the guide dog and rotate the LR32 rail. It would save you the second adjustment of the guide dog in the LR32 rail. I'll give it a try next weekend :-)
Thanks! Do you mean flip the router plate/sled? Pretty sure it only works off the splinterguard side of the rail, and honestly swapping the rail stop from one end to the other is trivial. 👍👍
Very very clever, I tried to wrap my head around using the LR32 for this very purpose some time ago. In the end, I gave up and went for the Trend template.
The key is the ref cuts down the edge. Great video as always, thank you.
Cheers.
Cheers Andy! Yes, I've been thinking about this for a long time. The 'notched' edges came out of an idea I tried for the portable bench build; *that* didnt work, but then I had a 'wait a minute...' moment! 😆👍
Hi Peter thanks for the video
It was interesting to see how well that bit bore the holes. When I’ve used a standard (well known popular brand) 35mm tct hinge boring router cutter bit in a router before for boring hinges recesses, it burns! 🔥 even when adjusting the speed its quickly dulled the bit in Mr mdf 😤 But watching you drill all those holes in that top, that festool bit seems to work very well. 😊👍🏼 Maybe the festool version would be a better investment to go for.
Yes, the festool bits are very good - still got a little scorching around the edges with this one though! 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Peter I thought you said the Festool bits are slightly oversized and you had to get yours ground down if so, they are surely not going to be suitable as not everyone knows an engineer!
Great video Peter. I don’t have the Festool setup, but I do have a Triton TWX7 with a similar MFT type top. I might give a go with a similar process to yours. Thx for the idea! PS I also 3D print my own dogs ;-)
GENIUS!!
😆👍
I'm a DIYer and as such I can't Justify the cost of the LR32 and the sled, for something I'd use once, especially as I already on the Evolution ST2800 Track, which does for my needs, so I can't even say "Well the track would get used."
It would be interesting to see if you could make an MFT style top using your entry level track / Router and say that Large wooden Tri Square thing you made, in one of your previous videos.
That said though, the concept is a great idea. and you delivered it in that informative, clear, concise mannor that you are renound for.
9:15 😃👍 great O.F.A.H. reference .
Great craftmanship, no doubt.
But I have to criticize just a little;
You haven't only used the LR32 rail, but the aluminium rings you screwed onto the rail is special tooling, and one could argue that one wouldn't have benchdogs just yet.
It feels a little bit like cheating that way. (Although you could just stick a drill through the LR32 holes to align it the same everytime)
But it does look like a useful tool. Might have a friend make one on the CNC, that 'll take even less than 7 minutes 😇
Little tip from a metal worker; When you align a product on the MFT top, use only 3 pins. (2 on the long side, 1 on the short side)
That is the only way you can properly align anything.
It's just like a stool with either 3 or 4 legs. The 4 leg stool will always wobble a bit when nobody sits on it.
Bloody good idea that mate. I've got the Bosch system 32 rails. I'll be giving this a go I think.
Cheers Stew! Yeah, give it a try - I'd be interested to see how the Bosch system works. 👍👍
I have quite basic wood working tools, but I'd really like to make this kind of working top accurately. I don't have any rails or anything for my router, but just realized that I think I could use my 3D printer to make 4x4 hole grid and use it as router template and possibly get good enough results as my printer is pretty accurate. Could work with reasonable tolerance for smaller working table. I think I'll try this some day.
Sounds good! 👍
Now that's clever and as quick( if not quicker) than using a purpose made template. I suspect there may be more uses for the 'half hole jig'......I'm going to make one and play around with it.
Thanks! Yes, indeed - Patreon supporters have already been treated to a preview of how they can work going forwards! 👍
Excellent vidéo. Had just bought a Dewalt router but his would have pushed me to get e Festool
Finally first 😉
Love your content 👍
Woo! 🙌💪👍👍😆
I don't know why you wouldn't suggest someone buy this specific rail solely for this purpose. This is brilliant!
Thank you! To be fair it’s not just the rail, it’s the router and the rest of the package that would all add up. But yes, I was really pleased when I figured this one out! 😆👍👍
Good video thanks
Thanks! 👍
Interesting. As always.
Thanks! 👍
Cool solution Peter :D I have a diy MFT video coming up. Editing it now, by the way. I have not checked the accuracy with the 5 cut method yet, but I believe it will be sufficient. However, it did NOT take 7 minutes! And the next time I'm either buying one, or stopping by my local Maker Space and making one on a CNC.
Cheers Goran! Yes, I saw your trial methods with the top - looked like hard work! These only really make sense if you need several, or if you want an oddball size; if you have access to a big cnc then then it's massively quicker and easier to do it that way. Look forward to your build - mine's still a couple of weeks away! 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Printing one on a CNC doesn't make for an interesting video though....
Wonderful. I wonder what would the compounding error be like if you just kept using the last set of holes as rail guides for the next set of holes to drill.
Thanks! They wouldn't be on the 96mm grid if that's what you did - that's why you start with the row at the top & bottom, to act as guides for the 96mm centres. 👍
Great system and instructions, thank you for it. I have a little idea. Do not use Rail Dogs. Use only a 5mm pin. Use the guide rail holes. Drill guide holes only 5mm. Fix the guide rail with pins on both sides. There may be a little more waste material, but I think it could be more accurate. Elimination of rail dog permits. Thank you for your channel. I follow and draw inspiration.
Thanks for the info, I'll look into it! 👍
Did you ever explore the suggested approach? I’m not sure I understand what is being suggested but now that I need a top I need to give it some thought.
@@bgnimelf after reviewing, I decided that this was a better solution
This is great.
Thank you! 🙌
Just got me Bosch OFA, 32mm system and a 20mm router bit, when a friend came and told me he has a CNC @work 😂
Nevertheless i'll give it a try with your method!
This method seems simpler than a lot I see floating around, and I actually don't see any downsides considering accuray. Maybe I woud prefer full holes on the oversized part and put in dogs for aligning the rail. I might try this method one day. Thank you!
Half-holes make the rail dogs much easier to get in and out; full holes would be more awkward. 👍👍
Such a simple and neat way of production. Unfortunately I am new to routing and do now which 20mm bit to get i have managed to adapt a second hand LR32 sled to take a trend t4 router but the 20mm bit i got from screwfix does not cut the centre of the hole. Which type of bits are best and where from?
I used the Festool bit, but it doesn’t give a 20mm hole which is why I haven’t linked to it. I have a video coming out before too long where I’ll be testing a few bits to see what works best. 👍👍
Great video Pete, daft question though, do you need Festool plunge router to use with the LR32 or can you adapt a Trend plunge router to the track....?
Thanks! Pretty sure the LR32 cradle will only take Festool’s current OF1010 and OF1400 routers, or an older OF900 like mine. I’ve heard of guys making a cradle of their own to take another router, but I’ve never seen one. 👍
Hey Peter, excellent video. I never considered anything else but the UJK jigg to create an MFT style top. Curious how accurate your top is - in terms of mm's for a particular length of cut. I am "loosing" 1 mm for every 70cm using the bench dogs on my UJK top (using a Festool track saw and guide rail). Wondering if that's acceptable or if I can/should strive for more accuracy? Really appreciate your thoughts on this.
If you’re happy with that then that’s great, but I’d want it better than that, personally. 1mm in 70 is 1.5mm in a metre - flip that piece over or butt it up against one cut the other way and that compounds to 3mm/metre - that’s a very noticeable 1/8th of an inch. I’d strive to get it better - you’ll save yourself some grief later on. 👍👍
Hi Peter, will be lovely if you could please tell me the bit you are using in your router, I wouldn't want to buy a wrong one an having hassle to return. Thanks for your help always.
Hi Peter, really enjoyed the video as I do all your videos.
However I couldn’t help but notice the use of insulating tape on your power cord. One of the benefits of the Festool system is you can replace a damaged power cable without having to take a machine apart to do so. Easier for PAT testing too.
Thanks Kenny! FYI this router’s an OF900E - it pre-dates the plug-it cord by many years! I bought it cheaply used, so I could have a dedicated router on the LR32; it had the insulation tape applied when I got it, and I’ve had no reason to change it. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thank you for the reply, working on large Industrial sites insulating tape is a red flag at which the Sparkies and waves of auditors descend on you with a lot of finger wagging. Keeps the safety people in a job!!!
Hi mate, love the videos! I noticed how little dust escaped when you were cutting the MDF! I'm looking for a dust extractor as I make a few things at home and was wondering what one you would recommend? It would get a little use on-site as well as I'm a Chippy by trade but probably don't need an all singing all dancing one!! Thanks
Hiya, and thanks! Honestly, it's a combination of decent vac and a saw with dust collection designed in from the start, with the emphasis on the saw tbh. A vac with a power take-off is handy, saves you switching it on and off all the time, and if you're doing site work then you'll probably have to have a Class M machine, which isn't cheap. Never used them, but I know a few lads who have the vTuff vacs, and rate them. Then again, I know a few who swear by Henrys! 😂 All mine are Festool, but if I was buying again on a bit more of a budget I'd definitely look at the vtuff stuff. 👍
Hi Peter, I've used a Tiagatools router jig to make an MFT. However, I find that the holes I'm making with my router are a tad to large for the bench dogs (TSO DoubleGroove) and tend to have too much play. I'm using a Makita RT0700C with plunge base, along with a festool 20mm spiral bit. What's the fit you are experiencing with that router bit? And could it be that my router has too much play in the plunging mechanism? Would be interesting to see a video on the size and fit of the dogs!
Hi Jorixk. It’s something I’ve talked about a bit more in the accompanying patreon video, but yes, it does seem to be an issue with many of these nominally 20mm bits that they note a hole that’s closer to 20.2mm. I have a precision engineer pal who was able to grind down the tips slightly to get a snug fit. I used the Festool but - link in the video description. 👍👍
as allways I learned a bunch again watching this video...greetz from Curacao
Hello, very nice video, would you tell me which rail dogs and bench dogs you’ve been using here?
Thanks in advance
Their is also a larger video from Heiko Rech about it.
Router-Jigs with Lego:
Frässchablonen aus LEGO - eine einfache Lösung für viele Anwendungen.
Unfortunately my Lego doesnt live with me anymore :P
Another great video. Off topic but do you use a midi or larger extractor?
I have a Midi, CTL SYS and old CTL22. Midi was my first Festool vac, still going strong, the 22 is the main shop vac though. 👍👍
Hey Peter I love this. Could you do one without using the luxuries from festool as many of people don't have these. Such as the router and rail with holes. Thank you 😊
Cheers Brett. As I say in the intro, MFT tops are a commodity now - far and away easier just to buy one, but if you do want to make one - or several - there are plenty of templates around - I link up a couple in the video description. But if you happen to have the ‘holey rail’ then it’s a good way to use it. 👍👍
Hi, Peter. thanks for the video (nice one again), wonder which 20mm bit you are using? tried several ones, the holes are either too tight or a bit loose(even tried CNC one)...really frustrated.
Thanks! I bought the Festool one, knowing it had a rep. for boring out a slightly oversized hole; it did. Fortunately a precision-engineer pal ground the tips down slightly to make it a snug fit. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop thank you so much, Peter!
Clever idea Peter. Having picked up a track saw based on your videos I was planning on making an mft top to maximise its potential so excited to hear about your upcoming bench build - will this LR32 system be the method of making the top? Also did I read that your Festool bit was a tad oversized? As I have been looking for an appropriate 20mm bit for this task.
Thanks! Yes, this is the top for the mobile bench. You’ll also be able to buy one if you don’t have the facilities to make your own. And yes, the Festool bit is known for making a slightly oversized hole; I have a precision- engineer friend who kindly ground it down to make a snug fit. 👌👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop aaaah, so a 2nd reason that while this idea is quite slick (kudos to that), it's not readily replicated by most folks. Between the turned aluminum pucks required for linear alignment, to the modified router bit...it's not simply "use an LR-32 system and this technique."
@@10MinuteWorkshop you should have mentioned that in the video
Great presentation, looking forward to making mft top myself. Question: Can the Guide Rail Index LA-LR 32 FS
Item number 496938 be substituted for the 30mm round stop? Second Question: What is the dimension of the Guide Rail reference jigs to align rail to work piece for cutting 20mm half holes? Went back to your guide rail reference blocks made with 6mm MDF hoping to find a dimension without success.
Yes - any stop will do. The ones that came with my LR32 set were very poor quality, which is why I made my own. Re the LR32 rail jigs - I’ll be happy to measure it when I’m back in the workshop, but it just extends to the centre line of the router; surely if you have the LR32 router sled you can measure this yourself? 🤔
Thanks for response. Most helpful and appreciated. Will use center mark of OF1400 router base as reference for aligning center point of 20mm half holes.
Which brand 20 mm router bit are you using? I found that not all 20 mm measurements are the same. I have used the UJK Parf Guide System II to make MFT style tops but I find using a drill for so many holes hard going. I tried the Trend Router Jig and another brand bit but found the holes slightly too large for the Bench Dogs Quad Dogs which are my preferred bench dog.
I used the Festool 20mm bit - link in video description - and it does have a reputation for being slightly over-sized. Fortunately I have an engineer pal who could grind the tips down slightly to get a snug fit. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Sorry I missed that link. I found it interesting that you had to have your Festool bit ground down slightly. Normally when working with wood the tolerances are not so tight. I suppose it is a case of using a metal bit to drill a hole in wood, then putting a metal bench dog in that hole.
Hi Peter, I'm in the process of making a Ron Paulk workbench so have to make 2 2400x600mm MFT style tops. I have LR32 but why not use 2 outer rows of holes as the "guide" holes rather than half holes down the edge of oversized board? Am I missing something herre?
Hi Greg. Just easier to get the guide rail dogs in and out of a half-hole, than it is a full hole; much less chance of them binding as you move the rail along, I’ve found. Whatever works though! 👍👍
This is the "boring part" nice pun!!
I liked this hole thing.
😂👍👍
After seeing the video until the end the new and consequent idea is to drill a row of holes with the LR32 on a separate strip and cut it in two at the middle of the holes. Than you should have a very precise jig which can be used like at the end of the video (11:53).
Yep, that’s what I’ve done. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop I think there is a little difference. You've used the top and bottom strips from the previous sheet, right? To ensure the identical distance of the (half-) holes from the border you've used this rail stopper from Ralph, right again? What I describe is a method with which you will get the precision automatically because each two half-holes are created out of the same full hole. Hope my weak english was somehow understandable now.