I made a 2400 x 900 table top and never considered anything other than a router to plunge the holes. The prospect of faffing around with a drill was not an alluring one. Modesty forbids my extoling the excellence of the final product, but suffice to say, with a wee bit of nous and a lot of care, great things can be accomplished. Now armed with my amazing unpatented MDF template and indexing system, I too am ready to engage that £20,000 CNC in combat!
I'm not new to woodworking, but have only recently come across the MFT jig system. If I need it I will make another one, but I cheated and bought just the table ready done in ply and double sided some rubber strip underneath to stop it sliding. I used to dread tying to cut sheet square and can't believe how much easier it is now to cut MDF and ply square using my cheap tracksaw instead of a workmate, clamps and a jig saw. My workshop is small, but I think I could now cut an 8 x 4 sheet indoors instead of waiting for suitable weather. Thanks for your videos.
Hi, this is probably only the second of your video’s I have seen. I absolutely like your pace, the calmth at wich you are able to explain with, the accuracy of your work at the one hand and the relativity of it all (incl the no/need for accessory tools) on the other! I will watch more of this stuf! Thank you.
I do not own a LR32 but have used Lego bricks (not joking) to achieve similar results. The Lego bricks are produced very accurately and you can use them (together with any standard rail guide by any manufacturer) to drill a very accurate grid.
@@skatemaniac actually it's pretty simple. You set a fixed stop at one end of the rail guide and use a number of Lego bricks to get the desired spacing. 1 Lego unit is approximately 7.9 mm, so you can get a variety of different spacings.
Clever yet relatively simple approach to getting an accurate array of holes into a new sheet of MDF. It also demonstrates there there are many decent methods of doing this, except the one constant largely responsible for the outcome is basic human error. You really need to think things through and pay attention to the factors that can throw you off, like those loose dog rails or whatever. I'm in the process now of processing a sheet of valchromat into a MFT top, and it may NOT get screwed up. I'm kinda driving myself nuts trying to decide which method to use, but I figure I'm have to experiment first on a sheet of mdf and then see how it goes. Thank you Peter for the entertainment and inspiration, as always- you're an awesome teacher. All the best.
Very very clever, I tried to wrap my head around using the LR32 for this very purpose some time ago. In the end, I gave up and went for the Trend template. The key is the ref cuts down the edge. Great video as always, thank you. Cheers.
Cheers Andy! Yes, I've been thinking about this for a long time. The 'notched' edges came out of an idea I tried for the portable bench build; *that* didnt work, but then I had a 'wait a minute...' moment! 😆👍
I bought a Festool LR32 long ago; to make shelf holes in cabinets. Never thought about using it to make a new MFT table top. Thank you for showing us how to do it kind Sir. I shall be doing it soon.
Hi Pete Just catching up on some of your older videos mate. I just love how your so laidback and make thing look so easy You have got to be one of the best woodworkers on TH-cam mate Looking forward to your next video Like I have said before Pete I can see you costing me a lot of money lol 😝 👍👍👍👍
The great part of your videos is you make it so simple to understand especially for the likes of me. Yes the lr32 is pricey but you get what you pay for. Thanks Peter
Thank you for an excellent idea and demonstration with the LR32! The idea was wonderful, my issue was getting the correct bit. My Festool bit 20mm hinge boring bit was a little too large at 20.05mm, and I am not a fan of oversized holes. Since I do not have a "machinist friend" I took my Festool 20mm hinge boring bit (that is slightly oversized) clamped it in my drill that is parallel to the table and used a diamond impregnated sharpening stone recessed into some stock for security and stability. I had the drill turn very slow and with the diamond stone secure in the stock, I had excellent control over the pressure of the diamond stone against the bit. With such a small amount to take off the bit diameter it did not take much to get it to a perfect 20mm, carefully double checking with digital calipers a couple of thousandths of an inch (.01mm) at a time. After I had the bit corrected, following your directions was the "easy" part. Thank you for your excellent videos!
Thank you Peter, it worked great my second go around. My rail dogs slipped my first crack at it but I really tightened them up the second time and the result was perfect. The long sides definitely need to be exactly parallel like you mentioned. Thanks again for sharing this great video - saved me a fortune on not having to buy a MFT table.
I've been dithering about which method I should use to achieving equidistant and perpendicular rows of 20mm holes in a 4'x8' top. Since I have a 32mm rail, I'm all lined out. Once again one of your videos has made the choice clear, easy, and accurate. Thank you.
Nicely done Peter 😁. 7 minutes... now that is impressive 👏👏. My first venture in to an MFT Was a few years ago now, I made two quite swanky roll cabinets for my Festool boxes that also doubled up as infeed and out feed tables for my tablesaw. With funky torsion box tops.... then I went and drilled the holes with 100mm centres 😔😔. Oh the shame of it all. Thanks for the video Peter 😁👍.
At 9:30, using only 2 pins won't confirm squareness as the board can shift slightly, you should use 3 to create a right angle. Great method for creating an mft top nonetheless.
Thank you! To be fair it’s not just the rail, it’s the router and the rest of the package that would all add up. But yes, I was really pleased when I figured this one out! 😆👍👍
Watched many of your videos now Peter and with everything you make it’s impressive how easy you make accuracy look and annoying at the same time! 😂 You also show just how much can be made from owning little more than a Festool track saw! 😂 Which will be my next purchase as we’re starting a pretty large remodel of our house in April and I’ll be fitting the kitchen and making wardrobes etc etc later this year, was considering a table saw too but think one good track saw will cover all bases for me. Thanks for your effort with any video as it’s a time consuming thing to do but a lot of people, including myself, learn a lot of tips from yourself and others. 👍
Genius !! Considering to expand my workbench area, which requires several MFT Tabletop.... I think I'll consider using thi method. Thanks for Sharing as always..
Thanks Peter for your wonderful tutorials! I just used your process for my 1075mm by 2000mm assembly table top and it turned out great thanks to this and your LR32 setting jigs 🙂 The only issue I had was my LR32 rail is the FS1400 so I had to get creative making the jig holes down the parallel edges of the top. In the end I'm very happy with the finished product.
Peter, your videos get better and better! And whilst your "holy" rail isn't cheap, it is usable for lots of other stuff, so this is a great way to justify the expenditure. Brilliant, and of course brilliant fun, too
Great system and instructions, thank you for it. I have a little idea. Do not use Rail Dogs. Use only a 5mm pin. Use the guide rail holes. Drill guide holes only 5mm. Fix the guide rail with pins on both sides. There may be a little more waste material, but I think it could be more accurate. Elimination of rail dog permits. Thank you for your channel. I follow and draw inspiration.
Did you ever explore the suggested approach? I’m not sure I understand what is being suggested but now that I need a top I need to give it some thought.
Fair play Peter, I have watched a few videos on how to make the perfect MFT top none are simple or cheap, yours is actually quiet genius, no doubt this is going to be one of those videos with a few million views
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thanks Peter, health wise all is good, business is slowly recovering. News from Britain is a bit limited down here, but I thought I saw that you are facing a second wave, so you also stay safe and take care.
Great craftmanship, no doubt. But I have to criticize just a little; You haven't only used the LR32 rail, but the aluminium rings you screwed onto the rail is special tooling, and one could argue that one wouldn't have benchdogs just yet. It feels a little bit like cheating that way. (Although you could just stick a drill through the LR32 holes to align it the same everytime) But it does look like a useful tool. Might have a friend make one on the CNC, that 'll take even less than 7 minutes 😇 Little tip from a metal worker; When you align a product on the MFT top, use only 3 pins. (2 on the long side, 1 on the short side) That is the only way you can properly align anything. It's just like a stool with either 3 or 4 legs. The 4 leg stool will always wobble a bit when nobody sits on it.
I'm a DIYer and as such I can't Justify the cost of the LR32 and the sled, for something I'd use once, especially as I already on the Evolution ST2800 Track, which does for my needs, so I can't even say "Well the track would get used." It would be interesting to see if you could make an MFT style top using your entry level track / Router and say that Large wooden Tri Square thing you made, in one of your previous videos. That said though, the concept is a great idea. and you delivered it in that informative, clear, concise mannor that you are renound for.
Nicely done! Another TH-camr I watch calls the router and jigs his portable CNC. Good timing on the video. I was just thinking how I could use my LR32 to make a new top.
Great video! I had to do two versions of my custom MFT table. The second one being with the PARF Guide Mk2. And you are correct, it did take a lot longer to do. Dead accurate however. My experience with making these is that one has to check EVERY HOLE for square. I am glad I did this on my first top because about half way through, everything went out of square and the top was worthless for precision work. I still have the first top and will turn it into a non precision assembly table (30in x 60in). The other side note is that I haven't gotten around to fitting just the side pieces and other hardware to implement the Festool guide rail system on their MFT table. You have shown that just lifting the guide rail between cuts is far more efficient than jiggling pieces of wood from underneath the guiderail after cutting. It is about $150 US dollars worth of parts from the company that does spare Festool parts. Regards.
Cool solution Peter :D I have a diy MFT video coming up. Editing it now, by the way. I have not checked the accuracy with the 5 cut method yet, but I believe it will be sufficient. However, it did NOT take 7 minutes! And the next time I'm either buying one, or stopping by my local Maker Space and making one on a CNC.
Cheers Goran! Yes, I saw your trial methods with the top - looked like hard work! These only really make sense if you need several, or if you want an oddball size; if you have access to a big cnc then then it's massively quicker and easier to do it that way. Look forward to your build - mine's still a couple of weeks away! 👍👍
Hi Peter, will be lovely if you could please tell me the bit you are using in your router, I wouldn't want to buy a wrong one an having hassle to return. Thanks for your help always.
Did my own 60” x 36” MFT top by using the Parf Guide System MK2. Took me about 2-3 hours to do it including chamfering each hole by using the Parf chamfering tool. Your method looks easier and faster... too bad I don’t have a Festool router (yet!). Anyways, great video!
Hi Peter thanks for the video It was interesting to see how well that bit bore the holes. When I’ve used a standard (well known popular brand) 35mm tct hinge boring router cutter bit in a router before for boring hinges recesses, it burns! 🔥 even when adjusting the speed its quickly dulled the bit in Mr mdf 😤 But watching you drill all those holes in that top, that festool bit seems to work very well. 😊👍🏼 Maybe the festool version would be a better investment to go for.
@@10MinuteWorkshop Peter I thought you said the Festool bits are slightly oversized and you had to get yours ground down if so, they are surely not going to be suitable as not everyone knows an engineer!
After seeing the video until the end the new and consequent idea is to drill a row of holes with the LR32 on a separate strip and cut it in two at the middle of the holes. Than you should have a very precise jig which can be used like at the end of the video (11:53).
@@10MinuteWorkshop I think there is a little difference. You've used the top and bottom strips from the previous sheet, right? To ensure the identical distance of the (half-) holes from the border you've used this rail stopper from Ralph, right again? What I describe is a method with which you will get the precision automatically because each two half-holes are created out of the same full hole. Hope my weak english was somehow understandable now.
Now that's clever and as quick( if not quicker) than using a purpose made template. I suspect there may be more uses for the 'half hole jig'......I'm going to make one and play around with it.
@@10MinuteWorkshop will do Peter. I am half way through building my kitchen with your help 👍🏻 loose tenon shaker style doors and drawers all cut with a parkside tracksaw. Never would’ve had the confidence without binge watching all your vids! So cheers mate!
Just got me Bosch OFA, 32mm system and a 20mm router bit, when a friend came and told me he has a CNC @work 😂 Nevertheless i'll give it a try with your method!
Hi, verry clean and easy technique!!! After drilling the first row of the refenece holes at the edge of the plate, maybe you flip the plate 180° via the long side - instead of change the guide dog and rotate the LR32 rail. It would save you the second adjustment of the guide dog in the LR32 rail. I'll give it a try next weekend :-)
Thanks! Do you mean flip the router plate/sled? Pretty sure it only works off the splinterguard side of the rail, and honestly swapping the rail stop from one end to the other is trivial. 👍👍
This method seems simpler than a lot I see floating around, and I actually don't see any downsides considering accuray. Maybe I woud prefer full holes on the oversized part and put in dogs for aligning the rail. I might try this method one day. Thank you!
Another LR-32 method for making MFT style tops is here on the Festool Owners Group. www.festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/diy-mft-with-lr32/
I have quite basic wood working tools, but I'd really like to make this kind of working top accurately. I don't have any rails or anything for my router, but just realized that I think I could use my 3D printer to make 4x4 hole grid and use it as router template and possibly get good enough results as my printer is pretty accurate. Could work with reasonable tolerance for smaller working table. I think I'll try this some day.
I really like this method and I will need to try it out soon. I recently got my hands on the LR32 system, and I have previously wasted too much money on other MFT jigs. Woodpeckers and Trends MFT jigs have produced poor results for me with dog holes that aren’t square.
Hi Peter, really enjoyed the video as I do all your videos. However I couldn’t help but notice the use of insulating tape on your power cord. One of the benefits of the Festool system is you can replace a damaged power cable without having to take a machine apart to do so. Easier for PAT testing too.
Thanks Kenny! FYI this router’s an OF900E - it pre-dates the plug-it cord by many years! I bought it cheaply used, so I could have a dedicated router on the LR32; it had the insulation tape applied when I got it, and I’ve had no reason to change it. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thank you for the reply, working on large Industrial sites insulating tape is a red flag at which the Sparkies and waves of auditors descend on you with a lot of finger wagging. Keeps the safety people in a job!!!
Their is also a larger video from Heiko Rech about it. Router-Jigs with Lego: Frässchablonen aus LEGO - eine einfache Lösung für viele Anwendungen. Unfortunately my Lego doesnt live with me anymore :P
If you were in the market for a top end router, then the LR32 rail makes more sense than the laborious parf guide system, had one, felt the pain, made the tops and sold it.
Yep, the PGSmk2 is a good system with low barrier tools-wise ie just a drill, but it’s slow. Bet you got a decent resale on it though - you rarely see them on sale. 👍👍
Peter Millard you have broke the code !!!!! My father and I used to call norm Abraham our leader but you have just taken his place Please keep the videos coming !!!
@@10MinuteWorkshop yes indeed your right but you are flying the flag for the 1 man band cabinet makers/micro business, there are others but no one gives the time like you or gives the detail either, so please keep the videos coming !!!
@@10MinuteWorkshop please keep the videos coming and that’s thanks enough, Iv just finished you’re podcast episodes on Spotify and I’m looking forward to listening to more on your patron page Also thanks for the reply, it shows you do listen to your audience 👍👍👍
Grazie Peter milard di esserti iscritto al mio canale ti seguo sempre anch'io un saluto da Diego il falegname di impariamo e ripariamo il canale che insegna veramente a lavorare il legno 👍👍👍
I know this is pretty late in the game. I was thinking on making an MFT with the LR32 rail set. And, instead of drilling the two rows of holes on the edge. it would be quicker to make some 96-mm gauge blocks, and stepping the track down the work piece, and use a stop attached to the bottom of the fence to keep things aligned. and, it would quickly result in an accurate grid of 20-mm holes every 96-mm. If you left the board a bit oversize, you could then use the new grid with some dogs, and the track saw to cut everything down to a perfect rectangle.
Did you watch to the end? A single row of holes on 96mm centres then cut that strip in half, and you have all the template you need for a 7-minute MFT top, 100% accurate. 🤷♂️ Whatever works for you - this works for me. 👍
To get the two half-hole strips, I’d do a full-hole strip and then cut it in half. Which has the added benefit that the holes are guaranteed to line up and the edge distance is also guaranteed the same. Also, it’s half as boring!
It would be great if Festool had a system where it allowed one to place a new sheet of mdf under the the old bench top and just use the old one as a guide for drilling the new holes. That should be fairly accurate as a jig. That might work out to the mutual benefit of the customer and Festool potentially as it would save the latter from the need to store large sheets for its bench tops.
@@10MinuteWorkshop It's not worth the exercise unless you have nerves of steel - or a small bench. Plus, there's always the probability you'll screw it up near the end! ; )
Peter i loved this so simple I have the Bosche /Maffel version of this rail so I will certainly have a go with this. That cutter just zipped through those holes with no noticeable break out underside. What make of cutter is it im sure you probably listed it but I could not see it. Can you please let me know
Thanks! Yes, I didn't list it because I used the Festool bit which is known to cut a slightly oversized hole (~20.16mm) so I had a precision engineer pal grind it down very slightly to make a snug fit to my benchdogs. I will be taking a look at alternative router birs for an MFT top in a future video, but still at the bit buying and testing stage just now. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop can't wait for it! ;) I've ordered the railsquare from benchdogs after watching your videos. Waiting for it to arrive, in the meantime gathering all bits of info for making an accurate mft without having to buy the parf guide system haha...
Hardboard?? I'll have you know that's finest African MDF! 😂 They come with a little plastic foot to support the router when it's hanging off the rail, but on this old router it's long gone, so I made my own; works great!👍
Great video Peter. I don’t have the Festool setup, but I do have a Triton TWX7 with a similar MFT type top. I might give a go with a similar process to yours. Thx for the idea! PS I also 3D print my own dogs ;-)
Would using a Benchdogs rail square with MFT groove adapters work? Instead of drilling 2 rows of half holes, you could drill 1 row of full holes for the groove adapters.
You’re brilliant!!!! Btw: I love your “heeh heeh.. chuckle” 😉 I don’t have an MFT but do have the festool tracksaw. Any pointers on why the MFT should be a must for me? Since I don’t have the router track system, would you consider I make a grid with the holes using a computer software / word or the like. Placing the holes at specific distance and then printing it as “a paper template” laying (gluing) to guide the cuts on the mdf? Just thinking on how I can generate a good template with “what I have” 😉
Wonderful. I wonder what would the compounding error be like if you just kept using the last set of holes as rail guides for the next set of holes to drill.
Thanks! They wouldn't be on the 96mm grid if that's what you did - that's why you start with the row at the top & bottom, to act as guides for the 96mm centres. 👍
I have looked at several systems to create an MFT. I have decided to go with this method. I am still not sure why you drilled half holes instead of full holes, expect to save material? Thank you for your work Peter.
Great video and solution to make a MFT! Anyone that have tried to do this with the Bosch FSN OFA 32 system? Well, since having this equipment already I tried. 18mm birch plywood. Very disappointed with the accuracy of the Bosch "Holey Rail" and its router adapter with pin/spring system. One problem I realized after making the MFT (now degraded to SFT - Single Function Table) is that you can move the router adapter base slightly sideways after the pin "slots" into the holes. I tried to hold the pin down as I wigled it to try to get it centered. After making a 12 x 9 hole MFT 70% of the holes was not in line of eachother (each line of holes seperately) with a offset up to 0.7mm. Checking with a big 45° angle revealed that the holes on this worktop is for clamping only😵 Measured the total cc distance between the pin holes on the 160cm rail and it was off by 1.3mm (compared to 3.2mm x 50 holes) This equipment is obviously ment for holes for shelves and nothing more. 😑
Hey Peter I love this. Could you do one without using the luxuries from festool as many of people don't have these. Such as the router and rail with holes. Thank you 😊
Cheers Brett. As I say in the intro, MFT tops are a commodity now - far and away easier just to buy one, but if you do want to make one - or several - there are plenty of templates around - I link up a couple in the video description. But if you happen to have the ‘holey rail’ then it’s a good way to use it. 👍👍
Hi Peter, I've used a Tiagatools router jig to make an MFT. However, I find that the holes I'm making with my router are a tad to large for the bench dogs (TSO DoubleGroove) and tend to have too much play. I'm using a Makita RT0700C with plunge base, along with a festool 20mm spiral bit. What's the fit you are experiencing with that router bit? And could it be that my router has too much play in the plunging mechanism? Would be interesting to see a video on the size and fit of the dogs!
Hi Jorixk. It’s something I’ve talked about a bit more in the accompanying patreon video, but yes, it does seem to be an issue with many of these nominally 20mm bits that they note a hole that’s closer to 20.2mm. I have a precision engineer pal who was able to grind down the tips slightly to get a snug fit. I used the Festool but - link in the video description. 👍👍
![3 MFT Tops, 3 MFT jigs [Video 498]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/9DhLQPrjnik/mqdefault.jpg)
![3 MFT Tops, 3 MFT jigs [Video 498]](/img/tr.png)
![Pocket-money Rail Hinge [video 497]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/sHj5G6t1qvY/mqdefault.jpg)
I made a 2400 x 900 table top and never considered anything other than a router to plunge the holes. The prospect of faffing around with a drill was not an alluring one. Modesty forbids my extoling the excellence of the final product, but suffice to say, with a wee bit of nous and a lot of care, great things can be accomplished. Now armed with my amazing unpatented MDF template and indexing system, I too am ready to engage that £20,000 CNC in combat!
I'm not new to woodworking, but have only recently come across the MFT jig system. If I need it I will make another one, but I cheated and bought just the table ready done in ply and double sided some rubber strip underneath to stop it sliding. I used to dread tying to cut sheet square and can't believe how much easier it is now to cut MDF and ply square using my cheap tracksaw instead of a workmate, clamps and a jig saw. My workshop is small, but I think I could now cut an 8 x 4 sheet indoors instead of waiting for suitable weather. Thanks for your videos.
Thanks! It’s one of the things I wished I’d had when I was first setting up. So simple, yet so useful! 👍
As a home user on a fixed income I can not justify any Festool gear. Still fun to watch.
Hi, this is probably only the second of your video’s I have seen. I absolutely like your pace, the calmth at wich you are able to explain with, the accuracy of your work at the one hand and the relativity of it all (incl the no/need for accessory tools) on the other! I will watch more of this stuf! Thank you.
Thanks, and welcome! I appreciate you taking the time to make such a positive comment! 👍👍
I do not own a LR32 but have used Lego bricks (not joking) to achieve similar results. The Lego bricks are produced very accurately and you can use them (together with any standard rail guide by any manufacturer) to drill a very accurate grid.
Ha! That’s genius! Serious question - does Lego adhere to the 32mm principle, or do you get a different spacing with it? Thanks! 👍👍
Can you expand on how you use the lego bricks? A diagram would be really useful.
@@10MinuteWorkshop Hi Peter, just checked & a 12 stud long Lego piece is 95.85mm, (approx), so not far off.
@@skatemaniac actually it's pretty simple. You set a fixed stop at one end of the rail guide and use a number of Lego bricks to get the desired spacing. 1 Lego unit is approximately 7.9 mm, so you can get a variety of different spacings.
@@tobiasruland4553 this needs a nice video 😀
Clever yet relatively simple approach to getting an accurate array of holes into a new sheet of MDF. It also demonstrates there there are many decent methods of doing this, except the one constant largely responsible for the outcome is basic human error. You really need to think things through and pay attention to the factors that can throw you off, like those loose dog rails or whatever. I'm in the process now of processing a sheet of valchromat into a MFT top, and it may NOT get screwed up. I'm kinda driving myself nuts trying to decide which method to use, but I figure I'm have to experiment first on a sheet of mdf and then see how it goes.
Thank you Peter for the entertainment and inspiration, as always- you're an awesome teacher. All the best.
Very very clever, I tried to wrap my head around using the LR32 for this very purpose some time ago. In the end, I gave up and went for the Trend template.
The key is the ref cuts down the edge. Great video as always, thank you.
Cheers.
Cheers Andy! Yes, I've been thinking about this for a long time. The 'notched' edges came out of an idea I tried for the portable bench build; *that* didnt work, but then I had a 'wait a minute...' moment! 😆👍
I bought a Festool LR32 long ago; to make shelf holes in cabinets. Never thought about using it to make a new MFT table top. Thank you for showing us how to do it kind Sir. I shall be doing it soon.
Hi Pete
Just catching up on some of your older videos mate.
I just love how your so laidback and make thing look so easy
You have got to be one of the best woodworkers on TH-cam mate
Looking forward to your next video
Like I have said before Pete
I can see you costing me a lot of money lol 😝 👍👍👍👍
Hey Carl. Very kind of you to say, and much appreciated! And remember - every video comes with a wallet-warning! 😂👍
When I use this process, I use tape to block off the holes where I don't want to drill. More foolproof than drilling to marks.
The great part of your videos is you make it so simple to understand especially for the likes of me. Yes the lr32 is pricey but you get what you pay for. Thanks Peter
Cheers Glenn! Yes, the LR32 isn't cheap, but it does a great job! 👍
Thank you for an excellent idea and demonstration with the LR32! The idea was wonderful, my issue was getting the correct bit. My Festool bit 20mm hinge boring bit was a little too large at 20.05mm, and I am not a fan of oversized holes. Since I do not have a "machinist friend" I took my Festool 20mm hinge boring bit (that is slightly oversized) clamped it in my drill that is parallel to the table and used a diamond impregnated sharpening stone recessed into some stock for security and stability. I had the drill turn very slow and with the diamond stone secure in the stock, I had excellent control over the pressure of the diamond stone against the bit. With such a small amount to take off the bit diameter it did not take much to get it to a perfect 20mm, carefully double checking with digital calipers a couple of thousandths of an inch (.01mm) at a time. After I had the bit corrected, following your directions was the "easy" part. Thank you for your excellent videos!
Thanks! TBH, that's only a very slightly less sophisticated way of getting the same result as my engineer pal! Good job! 🙌 👍
Thank you very much, Peter !
It works fine !!!
Thank you Peter, it worked great my second go around. My rail dogs slipped my first crack at it but I really tightened them up the second time and the result was perfect. The long sides definitely need to be exactly parallel like you mentioned. Thanks again for sharing this great video - saved me a fortune on not having to buy a MFT table.
Cheers Chris! Good to hear it worked for you! 👍👍
I've been dithering about which method I should use to achieving equidistant and perpendicular rows of 20mm holes in a 4'x8' top. Since I have a 32mm rail, I'm all lined out. Once again one of your videos has made the choice clear, easy, and accurate. Thank you.
Nicely done Peter 😁. 7 minutes... now that is impressive 👏👏. My first venture in to an MFT Was a few years ago now, I made two quite swanky roll cabinets for my Festool boxes that also doubled up as infeed and out feed tables for my tablesaw. With funky torsion box tops.... then I went and drilled the holes with 100mm centres 😔😔. Oh the shame of it all. Thanks for the video Peter 😁👍.
Cheers Frank! Yes, I was surprised how fast it went when I wasn’t stopping to take pictures! 😂👍
At 9:30, using only 2 pins won't confirm squareness as the board can shift slightly, you should use 3 to create a right angle. Great method for creating an mft top nonetheless.
Nice job Peter, I really like this method and very easily repeatable
Cheers Ross! 👍👍
Well that certainly is in record time, 7 minutes! woohoo 👌🏽
Good job mate, thanks for sharing 👍🏽
Cheers Bill! Yes, I was amazed how fast that went, when I'm not stopping to take pictures! 😂👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop
ahh, yes, the dreaded solo maker/videographer...
insanely time consuming that business! 😳
Yeah, just as well it's so profitable... 🤣🤣 🤣🤣 🤣🤣
@@10MinuteWorkshop
hmmm, rolling in the dough!
😆😆bwhahaha😆😆
I don't know why you wouldn't suggest someone buy this specific rail solely for this purpose. This is brilliant!
Thank you! To be fair it’s not just the rail, it’s the router and the rest of the package that would all add up. But yes, I was really pleased when I figured this one out! 😆👍👍
Watched many of your videos now Peter and with everything you make it’s impressive how easy you make accuracy look and annoying at the same time! 😂
You also show just how much can be made from owning little more than a Festool track saw! 😂 Which will be my next purchase as we’re starting a pretty large remodel of our house in April and I’ll be fitting the kitchen and making wardrobes etc etc later this year, was considering a table saw too but think one good track saw will cover all bases for me.
Thanks for your effort with any video as it’s a time consuming thing to do but a lot of people, including myself, learn a lot of tips from yourself and others. 👍
Thanks George! Much appreciated, and very best wishes from London! 🙌 👍
Genius !!
Considering to expand my workbench area, which requires several MFT Tabletop.... I think I'll consider using thi method.
Thanks for Sharing as always..
I can see why it cost more. It’s heaps faster once you have it set up. Thanks for replying and sharing Peter
I d really would like to see how that 7 Minute drill szene with the offcuts actually worked please
Thanks Peter for your wonderful tutorials! I just used your process for my 1075mm by 2000mm assembly table top and it turned out great thanks to this and your LR32 setting jigs 🙂
The only issue I had was my LR32 rail is the FS1400 so I had to get creative making the jig holes down the parallel edges of the top. In the end I'm very happy with the finished product.
Thanks Eric! Glad to hear it went well for you! 🙌👍
Peter, your videos get better and better! And whilst your "holy" rail isn't cheap, it is usable for lots of other stuff, so this is a great way to justify the expenditure. Brilliant, and of course brilliant fun, too
Cheers Simon! Yes, the holey rail is a significant outlay - but a lot less than a CNC that's capable of this! 👍
Thanks again
Your videos are always a joy to watch ...
Thanks! 👍
Great system and instructions, thank you for it. I have a little idea. Do not use Rail Dogs. Use only a 5mm pin. Use the guide rail holes. Drill guide holes only 5mm. Fix the guide rail with pins on both sides. There may be a little more waste material, but I think it could be more accurate. Elimination of rail dog permits. Thank you for your channel. I follow and draw inspiration.
Thanks for the info, I'll look into it! 👍
Did you ever explore the suggested approach? I’m not sure I understand what is being suggested but now that I need a top I need to give it some thought.
@@bgnimelf after reviewing, I decided that this was a better solution
Fair play Peter, I have watched a few videos on how to make the perfect MFT top none are simple or cheap, yours is actually quiet genius, no doubt this is going to be one of those videos with a few million views
Cheers Gerard. Fingers crossed! 😂👍👍
Slowly getting there. Only 960.000 to go 😁.
Excellent video as always Peter. Very neat approach to the job and beautiful accuracy too. 👍👍👍 Yes, it was easier to watch than explain 😉
Haha, thanks Bob! Hope you’re doing OK down under. Stay safe & take care. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thanks Peter, health wise all is good, business is slowly recovering. News from Britain is a bit limited down here, but I thought I saw that you are facing a second wave, so you also stay safe and take care.
And yes, I love the use of the LR32 rail.
Thanks! 👍
Nice job again Peter. Like the way you think about things. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks Jon! 👍
Great craftmanship, no doubt.
But I have to criticize just a little;
You haven't only used the LR32 rail, but the aluminium rings you screwed onto the rail is special tooling, and one could argue that one wouldn't have benchdogs just yet.
It feels a little bit like cheating that way. (Although you could just stick a drill through the LR32 holes to align it the same everytime)
But it does look like a useful tool. Might have a friend make one on the CNC, that 'll take even less than 7 minutes 😇
Little tip from a metal worker; When you align a product on the MFT top, use only 3 pins. (2 on the long side, 1 on the short side)
That is the only way you can properly align anything.
It's just like a stool with either 3 or 4 legs. The 4 leg stool will always wobble a bit when nobody sits on it.
I'm a DIYer and as such I can't Justify the cost of the LR32 and the sled, for something I'd use once, especially as I already on the Evolution ST2800 Track, which does for my needs, so I can't even say "Well the track would get used."
It would be interesting to see if you could make an MFT style top using your entry level track / Router and say that Large wooden Tri Square thing you made, in one of your previous videos.
That said though, the concept is a great idea. and you delivered it in that informative, clear, concise mannor that you are renound for.
Nicely done! Another TH-camr I watch calls the router and jigs his portable CNC. Good timing on the video. I was just thinking how I could use my LR32 to make a new top.
Thanks! And timing is everything! 👍
Love your craftsmanship. You make things look easy. Cheers
Thank you! 👍
Brilliant! Thank you so much for sharing. ..and now I definitely need to get the LR-32!
Thanks! 👍
Bloody good idea that mate. I've got the Bosch system 32 rails. I'll be giving this a go I think.
Cheers Stew! Yeah, give it a try - I'd be interested to see how the Bosch system works. 👍👍
Great video! I had to do two versions of my custom MFT table. The second one being with the PARF Guide Mk2. And you are correct, it did take a lot longer to do. Dead accurate however. My experience with making these is that one has to check EVERY HOLE for square. I am glad I did this on my first top because about half way through, everything went out of square and the top was worthless for precision work. I still have the first top and will turn it into a non precision assembly table (30in x 60in). The other side note is that I haven't gotten around to fitting just the side pieces and other hardware to implement the Festool guide rail system on their MFT table. You have shown that just lifting the guide rail between cuts is far more efficient than jiggling pieces of wood from underneath the guiderail after cutting. It is about $150 US dollars worth of parts from the company that does spare Festool parts. Regards.
Thanks! 👍👍
Great work. Again. Its really cool to look your smart way of working! Thx...
Thanks! 👍👍
Great first part, waiting for the rest of the portable workbench 🥳
Soon, grasshopper. 😆😂👍👍
Cool solution Peter :D I have a diy MFT video coming up. Editing it now, by the way. I have not checked the accuracy with the 5 cut method yet, but I believe it will be sufficient. However, it did NOT take 7 minutes! And the next time I'm either buying one, or stopping by my local Maker Space and making one on a CNC.
Cheers Goran! Yes, I saw your trial methods with the top - looked like hard work! These only really make sense if you need several, or if you want an oddball size; if you have access to a big cnc then then it's massively quicker and easier to do it that way. Look forward to your build - mine's still a couple of weeks away! 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Printing one on a CNC doesn't make for an interesting video though....
Hi Peter, will be lovely if you could please tell me the bit you are using in your router, I wouldn't want to buy a wrong one an having hassle to return. Thanks for your help always.
Excellent Peter, right off to make one, As always .. thanks and stay safe
Thanks Paul! 👍👍
Great job Peter, wish I’d seen this work bench before I retired it would of been handy and saved my knees ,have a great new year and stay safe !
Thanks! You too! 👍
Did my own 60” x 36” MFT top by using the Parf Guide System MK2. Took me about 2-3 hours to do it including chamfering each hole by using the Parf chamfering tool. Your method looks easier and faster... too bad I don’t have a Festool router (yet!). Anyways, great video!
Thanks! Yes, the PGS Mk2 is a good, accurate system - but not fast. 👍
Ha. That’s almost the same way I have made MFT / Paulk tops for years. Nice Work Sir!
Hi Peter thanks for the video
It was interesting to see how well that bit bore the holes. When I’ve used a standard (well known popular brand) 35mm tct hinge boring router cutter bit in a router before for boring hinges recesses, it burns! 🔥 even when adjusting the speed its quickly dulled the bit in Mr mdf 😤 But watching you drill all those holes in that top, that festool bit seems to work very well. 😊👍🏼 Maybe the festool version would be a better investment to go for.
Yes, the festool bits are very good - still got a little scorching around the edges with this one though! 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Peter I thought you said the Festool bits are slightly oversized and you had to get yours ground down if so, they are surely not going to be suitable as not everyone knows an engineer!
After seeing the video until the end the new and consequent idea is to drill a row of holes with the LR32 on a separate strip and cut it in two at the middle of the holes. Than you should have a very precise jig which can be used like at the end of the video (11:53).
Yep, that’s what I’ve done. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop I think there is a little difference. You've used the top and bottom strips from the previous sheet, right? To ensure the identical distance of the (half-) holes from the border you've used this rail stopper from Ralph, right again? What I describe is a method with which you will get the precision automatically because each two half-holes are created out of the same full hole. Hope my weak english was somehow understandable now.
Looking forward to seeing the bench!
Coming soon!👍
Don’t have any festools but that was still great to see. Luvly jubbly as you said....
Thank you! 👍
Now that's clever and as quick( if not quicker) than using a purpose made template. I suspect there may be more uses for the 'half hole jig'......I'm going to make one and play around with it.
Thanks! Yes, indeed - Patreon supporters have already been treated to a preview of how they can work going forwards! 👍
Great to know, than. For sharing.
Fantastic idea. Now I just have to bodge together a similar one with my old Bosch router and parkside rails 😆
Nice! Let me know how that goes... 😬
@@10MinuteWorkshop will do Peter. I am half way through building my kitchen with your help 👍🏻 loose tenon shaker style doors and drawers all cut with a parkside tracksaw. Never would’ve had the confidence without binge watching all your vids! So cheers mate!
Thanku Peter,very informative and inspiring
Glad you enjoyed it 👍
Just got me Bosch OFA, 32mm system and a 20mm router bit, when a friend came and told me he has a CNC @work 😂
Nevertheless i'll give it a try with your method!
Hi, verry clean and easy technique!!! After drilling the first row of the refenece holes at the edge of the plate, maybe you flip the plate 180° via the long side - instead of change the guide dog and rotate the LR32 rail. It would save you the second adjustment of the guide dog in the LR32 rail. I'll give it a try next weekend :-)
Thanks! Do you mean flip the router plate/sled? Pretty sure it only works off the splinterguard side of the rail, and honestly swapping the rail stop from one end to the other is trivial. 👍👍
This method seems simpler than a lot I see floating around, and I actually don't see any downsides considering accuray. Maybe I woud prefer full holes on the oversized part and put in dogs for aligning the rail. I might try this method one day. Thank you!
Half-holes make the rail dogs much easier to get in and out; full holes would be more awkward. 👍👍
Wow thats great stuff. I will totally be doing this when I have to replace my top!
Thanks! 👍
Great job….. thanks for sharing!
Another LR-32 method for making MFT style tops is here on the Festool Owners Group.
www.festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/diy-mft-with-lr32/
I have quite basic wood working tools, but I'd really like to make this kind of working top accurately. I don't have any rails or anything for my router, but just realized that I think I could use my 3D printer to make 4x4 hole grid and use it as router template and possibly get good enough results as my printer is pretty accurate. Could work with reasonable tolerance for smaller working table. I think I'll try this some day.
Sounds good! 👍
I really like this method and I will need to try it out soon. I recently got my hands on the LR32 system, and I have previously wasted too much money on other MFT jigs. Woodpeckers and Trends MFT jigs have produced poor results for me with dog holes that aren’t square.
excellent , Peter
Thanks John! 👍
Looking forward to seeing your bench
Hi Peter, really enjoyed the video as I do all your videos.
However I couldn’t help but notice the use of insulating tape on your power cord. One of the benefits of the Festool system is you can replace a damaged power cable without having to take a machine apart to do so. Easier for PAT testing too.
Thanks Kenny! FYI this router’s an OF900E - it pre-dates the plug-it cord by many years! I bought it cheaply used, so I could have a dedicated router on the LR32; it had the insulation tape applied when I got it, and I’ve had no reason to change it. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thank you for the reply, working on large Industrial sites insulating tape is a red flag at which the Sparkies and waves of auditors descend on you with a lot of finger wagging. Keeps the safety people in a job!!!
Excellent vidéo. Had just bought a Dewalt router but his would have pushed me to get e Festool
Their is also a larger video from Heiko Rech about it.
Router-Jigs with Lego:
Frässchablonen aus LEGO - eine einfache Lösung für viele Anwendungen.
Unfortunately my Lego doesnt live with me anymore :P
Love your vids!!!
Thanks! 👍
Superb video Peter. Superb.
Thanks Philip! 👍
Thank you.
If you were in the market for a top end router, then the LR32 rail makes more sense than the laborious parf guide system, had one, felt the pain, made the tops and sold it.
Yep, the PGSmk2 is a good system with low barrier tools-wise ie just a drill, but it’s slow. Bet you got a decent resale on it though - you rarely see them on sale. 👍👍
Peter Millard you have broke the code !!!!!
My father and I used to call norm Abraham our leader but you have just taken his place
Please keep the videos coming !!!
Haha, thanks - but there’s only one Norm’! 😂😂👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop yes indeed your right but you are flying the flag for the 1 man band cabinet makers/micro business, there are others but no one gives the time like you or gives the detail either, so please keep the videos coming !!!
Thanks Ben! I really appreciate you saying that. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop please keep the videos coming and that’s thanks enough, Iv just finished you’re podcast episodes on Spotify and I’m looking forward to listening to more on your patron page
Also thanks for the reply, it shows you do listen to your audience 👍👍👍
Great video, Cheers!
Thanks! 👍
9:15 😃👍 great O.F.A.H. reference .
Very clever Peter!
Cheers Steve! 👍👍
Grazie Peter milard di esserti iscritto al mio canale ti seguo sempre anch'io un saluto da Diego il falegname di impariamo e ripariamo il canale che insegna veramente a lavorare il legno 👍👍👍
This is the "boring part" nice pun!!
Finally first 😉
Love your content 👍
Woo! 🙌💪👍👍😆
I know this is pretty late in the game. I was thinking on making an MFT with the LR32 rail set. And, instead of drilling the two rows of holes on the edge. it would be quicker to make some 96-mm gauge blocks, and stepping the track down the work piece, and use a stop attached to the bottom of the fence to keep things aligned. and, it would quickly result in an accurate grid of 20-mm holes every 96-mm. If you left the board a bit oversize, you could then use the new grid with some dogs, and the track saw to cut everything down to a perfect rectangle.
Did you watch to the end? A single row of holes on 96mm centres then cut that strip in half, and you have all the template you need for a 7-minute MFT top, 100% accurate. 🤷♂️ Whatever works for you - this works for me. 👍
Nice Work Peter
Thank you! 👍
To get the two half-hole strips, I’d do a full-hole strip and then cut it in half. Which has the added benefit that the holes are guaranteed to line up and the edge distance is also guaranteed the same. Also, it’s half as boring!
You’ld be left with slightly less than half holes: assuming you saw exactly in the middle, each half would be reduced by half the blade thickness
@@gvanvoor Correct, but that doesn’t really matter for aligning the rail, does it?
@@broccoliagain3012 probably not, unless that tiny missing bit causes a bit of slop
It would be great if Festool had a system where it allowed one to place a new sheet of mdf under the the old bench top and just use the old one as a guide for drilling the new holes. That should be fairly accurate as a jig.
That might work out to the mutual benefit of the customer and Festool potentially as it would save the latter from the need to store large sheets for its bench tops.
Just use a bearing-guided bit in your router and have at it. You might find it’s cheaper just to buy a new top though! 🤷♂️👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop It's not worth the exercise unless you have nerves of steel - or a small bench. Plus, there's always the probability you'll screw it up near the end! ; )
Peter i loved this so simple I have the Bosche /Maffel version of this rail so I will certainly have a go with this. That cutter just zipped through those holes with no noticeable break out underside. What make of cutter is it im sure you probably listed it but I could not see it. Can you please let me know
Thanks! Yes, I didn't list it because I used the Festool bit which is known to cut a slightly oversized hole (~20.16mm) so I had a precision engineer pal grind it down very slightly to make a snug fit to my benchdogs. I will be taking a look at alternative router birs for an MFT top in a future video, but still at the bit buying and testing stage just now. 👍
Thanks for that I gathered you had a friendly toolmaker in your gang😊
@@10MinuteWorkshop can't wait for it! ;) I've ordered the railsquare from benchdogs after watching your videos. Waiting for it to arrive, in the meantime gathering all bits of info for making an accurate mft without having to buy the parf guide system haha...
Wish I had purchased the lr32 set rather than the parf guide. The lr32 set would come in handy for other jobs where the parf guide is single purpose.
Must be a way to repurpose the Parf guide for eg shelf-pin holes though, surely?? 🤔
Clever idea Peter. What is the small ? hardboard stop on the side of the router for?
Hardboard?? I'll have you know that's finest African MDF! 😂 They come with a little plastic foot to support the router when it's hanging off the rail, but on this old router it's long gone, so I made my own; works great!👍
Great video Peter. I don’t have the Festool setup, but I do have a Triton TWX7 with a similar MFT type top. I might give a go with a similar process to yours. Thx for the idea! PS I also 3D print my own dogs ;-)
I'm having difficulty sourcing *Whatever l had*
will *found in the skip* do🤔
Neat half hole idea👍👍👍👍👍
Peter have you borrowed ToT's time machine?
Thanks Clive! Half-hole idea came about whilst mucking about with the bench idea. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop it's a good idea, and as a bonus put two together and you get a......whole.....hole🤣
Hello, very nice video, would you tell me which rail dogs and bench dogs you’ve been using here?
Thanks in advance
Would using a Benchdogs rail square with MFT groove adapters work? Instead of drilling 2 rows of half holes, you could drill 1 row of full holes for the groove adapters.
Up to you; I wouldn't expect it to be accurate enough, personally. 🤷♂️
Very clever. I would try to use the rail positioning system that comes with the LR32, I think, because I have them. But yes, very cool.
Thanks. I have the positioning guides as well, and found them to be very poor quality / inaccurate - it’s why I asked my pal to make the discs. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Yep - horribly crude, especially considering how brutally expensive the LR32 system is. BTW - your 32 disc idea is genius 😎
@@jes1111yta Thanks! Yes, fingers crossed Benchdogs gets them into production soon! 👍
thanks for sharing great job
Thank you! 👍
Brilliant!
Thanks! 👍👍
You’re brilliant!!!! Btw: I love your “heeh heeh.. chuckle” 😉
I don’t have an MFT but do have the festool tracksaw. Any pointers on why the MFT should be a must for me?
Since I don’t have the router track system, would you consider I make a grid with the holes using a computer software / word or the like. Placing the holes at specific distance and then printing it as “a paper template” laying (gluing) to guide the cuts on the mdf? Just thinking on how I can generate a good template with “what I have” 😉
Wonderful. I wonder what would the compounding error be like if you just kept using the last set of holes as rail guides for the next set of holes to drill.
Thanks! They wouldn't be on the 96mm grid if that's what you did - that's why you start with the row at the top & bottom, to act as guides for the 96mm centres. 👍
Great video! Which rail dog works best for mounting under the track?
I use the benchdogs ones. 👍
as allways I learned a bunch again watching this video...greetz from Curacao
I have looked at several systems to create an MFT. I have decided to go with this method. I am still not sure why you drilled half holes instead of full holes, expect to save material? Thank you for your work Peter.
Thanks. Re the half-holes, it just makes it easier to locate the rail dogs. 👍
Great video and solution to make a MFT! Anyone that have tried to do this with the Bosch FSN OFA 32 system? Well, since having this equipment already I tried. 18mm birch plywood. Very disappointed with the accuracy of the Bosch "Holey Rail" and its router adapter with pin/spring system. One problem I realized after making the MFT (now degraded to SFT - Single Function Table) is that you can move the router adapter base slightly sideways after the pin "slots" into the holes. I tried to hold the pin down as I wigled it to try to get it centered. After making a 12 x 9 hole MFT 70% of the holes was not in line of eachother (each line of holes seperately) with a offset up to 0.7mm. Checking with a big 45° angle revealed that the holes on this worktop is for clamping only😵 Measured the total cc distance between the pin holes on the 160cm rail and it was off by 1.3mm (compared to 3.2mm x 50 holes) This equipment is obviously ment for holes for shelves and nothing more. 😑
What a shame! Never used the Bosch system, sounds very disappointing I’m sorry to say. I’d have expected better from Bosch tbh. 🤔🤷♂️👍
Hey Peter I love this. Could you do one without using the luxuries from festool as many of people don't have these. Such as the router and rail with holes. Thank you 😊
Cheers Brett. As I say in the intro, MFT tops are a commodity now - far and away easier just to buy one, but if you do want to make one - or several - there are plenty of templates around - I link up a couple in the video description. But if you happen to have the ‘holey rail’ then it’s a good way to use it. 👍👍
Hi Peter, I've used a Tiagatools router jig to make an MFT. However, I find that the holes I'm making with my router are a tad to large for the bench dogs (TSO DoubleGroove) and tend to have too much play. I'm using a Makita RT0700C with plunge base, along with a festool 20mm spiral bit. What's the fit you are experiencing with that router bit? And could it be that my router has too much play in the plunging mechanism? Would be interesting to see a video on the size and fit of the dogs!
Hi Jorixk. It’s something I’ve talked about a bit more in the accompanying patreon video, but yes, it does seem to be an issue with many of these nominally 20mm bits that they note a hole that’s closer to 20.2mm. I have a precision engineer pal who was able to grind down the tips slightly to get a snug fit. I used the Festool but - link in the video description. 👍👍