The first video back from a much needed break and I'm up and running again. This was a fun little project that's been on my project list for a long time. I'm really pleased with the design, I reckon it looks pretty cool and it's another handy tool for the workshop. :) If you'd like to make one the same as mine you can find the dimensions here paskmakes.com/free-plans/ As I mention in the video Corin from Niroc Tools plans on making a run of these. If you'd like to get hold of one you can reach him here www.niroc.com.au/product/optical-center-punch-expression-of-interest/
A lovely little project. One of the difficulties in using these accurately is that you need to be starting straight down from the top. If you add a ring to the crosshair, it will allow better centring by eye to the bore of the tool.
Nice project! One suggestion though. Might be an idea to install an O ring on the bottom surface of the punch body to make sure it doesn’t slide on the workpiece while you’re replacing the lens piece with the punch. Just a thought. Keep up the good work! Cheers! D’ohh!! Should have watched the whole video before commenting! 😂
I like to watch videos that feel like I'm visiting a friend in the shop. All of your videos feel this way. So thank you so much for inviting us in to spend a great time. 😊
If you want the ultimate accuracy, create and sharpen the punch first, then bore the block. After creating the clear rod, slide it half way down one end of the block and slide the point end of the punch down the other end. Lightly tap the punch, so it leaves a point mark on the face of the rod. The mark is precisely concentric with the bore, rod, and punch. You can use this method to also confirm your cross hairs are centered.
Great idea, though it would compound any error if the tip of the punch isn't spot on. If your punch and magnifier were shaped so they could only be inserted one way it would eliminate that error.
@@bobweiram6321 if your punch point is a half a millimetre to one side of axis then your mark on the lens will be as well. When you put them back in the round hole later, because you can't guarantee they go back in the same way the lens could have the offset to the opposite side, potentially doubling the error. If your lens and punch were pentagon shaped, or a cylinder with a flat on one side, so they were always put back in the same orientation, you'd eliminate that error.
It looks like grinding with the jig with collar and air-tight fit couldn't miss making a perfectly centered point. To verify this place both parts as described above but rotate either one under slight pressure. If anything is off center, this will scribe a circle.
@@locked01 Ciao! i better let you know, this comment of mine is very 'Australiana' I indeed understand Neil perfectly. I was having a bit of fun. Neil is from the other side of Australia to me, so his accent is slightly different. which gives good reason to "tease" in good fun. it's the Australian thing to do. Cheers.
The angled cut on the oring groove shows his thinking ahead a few more steps. Need to cut an oring groove, but also need it to stay in place but make is simple to replace if it gets chewed up over time. That angled cut for the groove was smart. Have the oring stretch a bit to clear the outer edge, but snaps and stays in place in the groove. And you know he got the depth of cut just perfect so it's sitting just a touch proud of the face. Great video. Conventional machining keeps you on your toes and keeps you sharp. Miss doing that work!
I'm not a machinist, but I was mesmerized by this video, you explained every step very well, thank you for my introduction to this skill. I was brought here via a laser engraving group I'm in. You have a new subscriber, I'm gonna watch more of your channel, thank you very much!
These are gorgeous. I love the concentric circles on top. I also like learning the pros and cons of each metal type as you went through the process. Gave me a better understanding why you select different metals in past videos.
Seems like an interesting challenge to make a punch that doesn't need the optic removed. Also to make the bottom somehow conform to curved or uneven surfaces, which is the time I most often need a punch.
That would probably be a super custom thing, which will involve something like a love child between a profiling tool and a needle gun with rounded needle tips that are either gravity fed or have light spring compression, where one can float the body on a non-flat surface to center it in such a way that the needles are all making contact, then twist tighten a collar to lock the needles in place before swapping the optic with the punch. More tedium but gets it done.
@@PaskMakes For uneven surfaces you could drill and tap three holes into the bottom surface of the block to screw in three legs, ideally with rubber tips.
Ohio, USA again. I made 2 of these per your instructions and they work great! What a useful tool. I made my punches out of A2 drill rod that I then hardened and tempered. Thanks again.
Very cool project. As far as the acrylic stock polishing, I've sanded it out to 1500 grit and then used a light pass with a medium heat propane torch. It works well in most plastics shine it. I'm not sure for your needs. It could be a short cut. Cheers.
Excellent work. A design feature that I used, and works well, is to use a 6mm thick clear acrylic base with an inset LED. This provides good illumination in less than ideal lighting conditions.
You can also center drill a perpendicular hole on the side of the base. It effectively turns the acrylic rod into a light pipe letting in ambient or led light.
@@danceswithaardvarks3284 As an alternative to turning your own base, you can up cycle or purchase a solid metal knob and bore it out for the acrylic rod.
I love the project. I noticed it because I’ve done something similar. I’ll pass on a couple of suggestions, not to say mine are better but more to just pass on ideas. As someone else pointed out, an easy way to index the flat end of the acrylic to the punch is to drill a fairly precisely matched hole in a block of scrap, I used hardwood😊, feed the punch in one end and the unmarked flat end of the acrylic into the other. Another suggestion is that the flat end of the acrylic can be pretty dark in use so can be a little difficult to align properly with the mark on the flat surface of the material to be center punched. I found that making the acrylic rod longer than the holder lets it the rod act as a light pipe significantly brightening the distal end of the acrylic rod when being used. To make a nice lens, I cut a 2.5 inch diameter hole in a piece of wood. Next I cut the wood to expose the semicircular inside of the hole. Next I used that inside diameter to hold sandpaper and then applied that curved sandpaper to the lens end of the rod as I spun the rod in the drill press. You can control the magnification of the lens by varying the size of the hole in the wood. Next I started making the holder blocks from acrylic, so the holder allows light in as well. That worked very well. I used a layer of 800 grit sandpaper instead of the rubber rings. I found that the rubber rings could sometimes slip a little between aligning the acrylic rod and the steel punch. I glued that sandpaper to the bottom of the block, that seems to eliminate all slippage. I initially 😊used water hardening drill rod as my punch. When applied to steel, depending on the hardness of the steel, it could dull my punch. I found some replacement center punch pins on line, they were cheap, $3 or so for a dozen. I drilled an acrylic spacer for the punch pins so can use that spacer with one of the pins inserted to mark harder materials. If it dulls, I can simply replace it with a new one.
This is a really great idea. I actually made one using a hand drill and an $8 drill guide block, as I don't own a drill press. While far from perfect, I tested it against my standard punch on a series of target-centers, trying my best to get perfect centers using both tools. My homemade magnifying punch worked better 9 times out of 10. Thanks for this video, especially the quick/easy method you show at the end.
Instead of trying to sand and polish everything for a really nice finish on the perspex, you have use a flame. It works really really quickly too. When Ive cut perspex, even with a saw, you can take the saw marks out with flame alone, but if its a bit a rough cut, a quick sand with a flat block helps get a more level surface. Flame will turn acrylic/perspex back to being like glass.
I really enjoyed the video and learned a lot!! I especially appreciate the instructions at the end for those of us who don't have a milling station. You think of everything!
Your videos are always so great! You show your techniques in great detail, telling us your thought process and showing different ways of doing the same thing. Plus you just have a great perspective on how to get things done. Like using the spray paint lid for a little paint tray. Genius! Thank you for sharing.👍💪
i like how Neils confidence has grown with all the metal working , i been playing with wood work for years i am now tempted to take look at metal working :) , thanks Neil your an inspiration to us all :D
Thanks - you should definitely give it a go if you're tempted. I reckon all materials have their separate challenges which makes them interesting to work with. :)
I will say this brought back a memory from school, when the tool shop gave me a piece of extruded acrylic rod instead of the cast. It did make quite a boom when it popped on that lathe.
Another great project! I really like and appreciate how you often show how to make a high-end piece and a simpler one for those of us who don't have all the tools you do. But, no matter what you're making, watching you go through all the steps of making and thinking your way through something is always great. For the cutout pieces, I think they'd make cool inserts/inlays for another project.
Just stumbled upon this channel. Gives a real insight on how precise the milling process is. As a furniture design and make student one of these would level up my work!
Hey Pask, you're going to want to change out that grinding wheel on your surface grinder. Never grind on the side of a grinding wheel. It creates a thin spot in the wheel, which causes a stress riser. The face of the wheel can come off. It has killed people before.
we have them at work, we call them "bomb sights" but they accept hardened steel bushings of various sizes an can fit in a drill block. you can then clamp it all up, align it and drill it in one go! suprizingly accurate in the right hands. we use the same kind of set ups with Leica laser trackers and CM arms too
Non seulement ce pointeur optique est une très belle idée mais la méthode pour le réaliser est aussi pleine de bonnes idées. Le fruit de l’expérience sans doute.
I have made a few plastic lens like that out of acrylic, you dont need to sand and polish as much, you use a hot air gun or pencil torch to melt the end after you shape it.
I've used the heat gun method on the edge of sheet perspex many times but I was unsure what it would do to the surface of the lens. It was super quick and easy to polish it though. :)
That magnet/digital angle gauge indexing trick on your lathe is genius. So clever and simple. Looking forward to trying it on my wood lathe. Another awesome video man.
Man, I love coming here seeing what weirdly interesting thing you've decided to make. You, This Old Tony and only a few others really set the bar for professional amateurs.
Greetings from Ohio USA. What a great video. I’m going to make a couple of these. Some of your machining tips and tricks are truly inspired. I can use this. Thanks.
Fantastic video as always! I love the addition at the end showing how it can be made with cheaper tools for us that don't have access to proper machining equipment.
Just started watching this video. One initial thought I had was it could do with a air hole/gap at the bottom. It will help with the risk of moving the tool when removing the lense due to the vaccume as it's a great fit.
Nice. Thanks for showing the simple wood one. I don't have access to a machine shop so that wood one is right up my alley ad definitely doable in a very short time.
What a nice practical tool Pask. Well done. After spending my life turning and milling I'm now too old to do anything but if I were able to put my hands on machines, I'd have loved to give it a go.
Nice project with lots of good ideas. Very cool touch at the end using more average hobby workshop tools. For the last one an alternative to the center spot is a center ring. Same setup but with an off center drill bit.
Love this format showing an optimal manufacturing process and what most of us could do as well. Only suggestion I have on the project is if the body could be clamped down, not hard, just enough and consistent pressure to retain position to avoid those inaccuracies you could get from the flex in the oring when you strike versus when you look
Just wanted to say, the detail with the rings although you say is unnecessary, the devil is in the detail and little things like that make a tool more than just a functional object. Therefore things like this should be encouraged! Whoever ends up having these I hope use them extensively while treasuring them for the beautiful things they are. Well done, sir.
This is a nice tool, thanks for sharing the making process. I think it would be a nice feature to have a second hole for the punch or the lens, whichever is not in use, or to store the center punch.
Amazing video, thank you very much, may I suggest that at the bottom of the punch holder you machine a 90° v shape so that it can be used on round surfaces.
My first thought in terms of improvements is to cut little channels into the channel so that the lens and punch drop in quicker? It’s such a nice and perfect fit that air pressure builds when inserting and removing the inserts. Excellent job, every time I see your video I’m amazed at the ingenuity and attention to detail. I hope to be able to own some of the tools seen here in the future, it just opens so many possibilities.
Thery are a lovely looking tool, and thanks for coming up with and videoing a good alternative for those of us without lathe and milling machine. Really appreciate it, and i learnt some nice tricks too!
Even though it's a chunky bit of brass, I would do a steel liner in the center hole to keep the hole keep its exact diameter. Awesome build and amazing video as always!
Very cool Pask ,I will be making one because I often have trouble leaning the centre punch into the right spot Thanks for the video Cheers from down south
Looking god, these ones! An old machinist I talked to gave the advice to use denatured alkohol as a cutting liquid when working with aluminium. It works great.
One of the cool things about acrylic is when you hit it with a bit of heat it melts a bit and fills all the scratches leaving a polished surface idk if that's something that would work well for lenses since you might risk distorting the curve of the lens but could be worth a try and might save you some sanding in the future.
Excellent! One improvement would be crosshairs on the base. They would like nice with the circles, and it would make it quicker if the marks were near the base.
Brilliant, just brilliant! I always enjoy your videos, and this was no exception. I like the tool's usefulness, and I love the idea of creating your own from wood. However, if I had the means, I would absolutely want to be able to make one from brass, as it looks amazing! Well done as usual, and thanks for sharing with us!
I've seen these before and thought they were so cool. I love how you made them and the careful thought behind your design and creation. While you were making them, I wondered if you were going to give one to your mate, Corin. As soon as I had the thought, you said it.😁They are lovely, Neil. The recipients will cherish them. Thanks for sharing this.
Nice! I made one of these when I got a small lathe, and it has improved my punchin accuracy no end, especially as my eyesight isn't as good as it used to be. Your punches look way cooler though!
Brilliant! A much beefier design than the ones I've seen from the usual sources. And heavy is good. Brass with some Mallory metal slugs inside or similar would do well I believe, and here's an idea: an optical punch with a spring-loaded punch that can be set in the holder, push a button, and bam! a center mark made in situations where a hammer would be unusable, or for materials that would need that vs. the inertia of a hammer.
I think you might have this backwards based on what I used fifty years ago. I had one of these in which the outer part was clear plastic with black crosshairs and inner part (center punch) was a carbide rod (maybe 1/8” diameter). A spring would keep the center punch retracted slightly. I lined up the cross hairs and tapped lightly. The resulting prick mark was enough to locate a regular center punch. Just a thought.
I was thinking we were always told to have full face contact on the annular cutters. I've done half holes on flat material but not on radius stock. I guess with the softer materials you can get away with it though! The Niroc tools are great too. I use my centerpunch and scribe on Hardox all day with no dulling so far.
This is so clever 👏 as someone who is visually impaired due to a traumatic brain injury these would be so helpful but unfortunately 180$ on a disability pension is out of my reach 😢 but keep up the great work mate and creating great work and content 👍
The first video back from a much needed break and I'm up and running again. This was a fun little project that's been on my project list for a long time. I'm really pleased with the design, I reckon it looks pretty cool and it's another handy tool for the workshop. :)
If you'd like to make one the same as mine you can find the dimensions here paskmakes.com/free-plans/
As I mention in the video Corin from Niroc Tools plans on making a run of these. If you'd like to get hold of one you can reach him here www.niroc.com.au/product/optical-center-punch-expression-of-interest/
Great video, concept, and method ! Thanks. How about another series of 'scrapwood challange'? Those are really awesome too.
@@harindergill7221 Thanks very much! I may do a scrapwood challenge next. :)
A lovely little project. One of the difficulties in using these accurately is that you need to be starting straight down from the top. If you add a ring to the crosshair, it will allow better centring by eye to the bore of the tool.
@PaskMakes you're not late, you're exactly where you're supposed to be.
Thanks for sharing
Nice project! One suggestion though. Might be an idea to install an O ring on the bottom surface of the punch body to make sure it doesn’t slide on the workpiece while you’re replacing the lens piece with the punch. Just a thought. Keep up the good work! Cheers!
D’ohh!! Should have watched the whole video before commenting! 😂
Saw the shirt and I gotta say, as much as I enjoy your videos I miss the scrap wood challenges.
+1
Amen
+2
+1000000
@ConcreteLand we all need to buy the scrap wood challenge shirts. It'll force Neil's hand. (I think it wood make his day)
I like to watch videos that feel like I'm visiting a friend in the shop. All of your videos feel this way. So thank you so much for inviting us in to spend a great time. 😊
You're very welcome! Glad you enjoyed it! :)
If you want the ultimate accuracy, create and sharpen the punch first, then bore the block. After creating the clear rod, slide it half way down one end of the block and slide the point end of the punch down the other end. Lightly tap the punch, so it leaves a point mark on the face of the rod. The mark is precisely concentric with the bore, rod, and punch. You can use this method to also confirm your cross hairs are centered.
That's an awesome idea Bob, I like it! :)
Great idea, though it would compound any error if the tip of the punch isn't spot on. If your punch and magnifier were shaped so they could only be inserted one way it would eliminate that error.
@@geoffcapper5025 Don't get it. Insert one way?
@@bobweiram6321 if your punch point is a half a millimetre to one side of axis then your mark on the lens will be as well. When you put them back in the round hole later, because you can't guarantee they go back in the same way the lens could have the offset to the opposite side, potentially doubling the error. If your lens and punch were pentagon shaped, or a cylinder with a flat on one side, so they were always put back in the same orientation, you'd eliminate that error.
It looks like grinding with the jig with collar and air-tight fit couldn't miss making a perfectly centered point. To verify this place both parts as described above but rotate either one under slight pressure. If anything is off center, this will scribe a circle.
As a West Australian, even with the language barrier, i always find your problem solving inspirational, Neil.
Thanks mate! :)
Holy shit! You literally speak the same language!! Anyways, I speak proficiently only Italian, and this channel is indeed inspirational.
@@locked01 Ciao! i better let you know, this comment of mine is very 'Australiana' I indeed understand Neil perfectly. I was having a bit of fun. Neil is from the other side of Australia to me, so his accent is slightly different. which gives good reason to "tease" in good fun. it's the Australian thing to do. Cheers.
@@locked01
@@warpo007 To be fair his accent also appears to have significant British influences, I'd guess Midlands somewhere.
A great project, particularly the "basic workshop" variant as a project for those of us without larger machine tools.
Thanks Dominic! I reckon the basic one is a nice little afternoon project. :)
Came to write exactly that! Great idea, nice project, looks accessible, even without a drill press.
I love how you used the digital angle finder to make the crosshairs, super cool solution!
Thanks very much! As I said, it worked well for one but easier with the other method on the mill. :)
Great video as usual! Your ability to problem solve never ceases to amaze me.
Glad you enjoyed it Nick! That was the best bit of the project. :)
Your level of skill and attention to detail, never ceases to amaze. Well done, sir.
Thanks very much Stephen! :)
There's a lot to like in this tool. The o-ring at the bottom is a brilliant touch!
Glad you like it Jason! :)
The angled cut on the oring groove shows his thinking ahead a few more steps. Need to cut an oring groove, but also need it to stay in place but make is simple to replace if it gets chewed up over time. That angled cut for the groove was smart. Have the oring stretch a bit to clear the outer edge, but snaps and stays in place in the groove. And you know he got the depth of cut just perfect so it's sitting just a touch proud of the face. Great video. Conventional machining keeps you on your toes and keeps you sharp. Miss doing that work!
I'm not a machinist, but I was mesmerized by this video, you explained every step very well, thank you for my introduction to this skill. I was brought here via a laser engraving group I'm in. You have a new subscriber, I'm gonna watch more of your channel, thank you very much!
You're very welcome - Glad you enjoyed it! :)
These are gorgeous. I love the concentric circles on top. I also like learning the pros and cons of each metal type as you went through the process. Gave me a better understanding why you select different metals in past videos.
Thanks very much Tricia - glad you found it helpful. :)
Seems like an interesting challenge to make a punch that doesn't need the optic removed. Also to make the bottom somehow conform to curved or uneven surfaces, which is the time I most often need a punch.
That would probably be a super custom thing, which will involve something like a love child between a profiling tool and a needle gun with rounded needle tips that are either gravity fed or have light spring compression, where one can float the body on a non-flat surface to center it in such a way that the needles are all making contact, then twist tighten a collar to lock the needles in place before swapping the optic with the punch.
More tedium but gets it done.
I don't have any ideas but would be cool! :)
the solutions for using precision optics in an extreme-acceleration environment are probably ITAR items lmao
Diamond tip optic with a metal sleeve to handle the g-forces?
@@PaskMakes For uneven surfaces you could drill and tap three holes into the bottom surface of the block to screw in three legs, ideally with rubber tips.
Ohio, USA again. I made 2 of these per your instructions and they work great! What a useful tool. I made my punches out of A2 drill rod that I then hardened and tempered. Thanks again.
Very cool project.
As far as the acrylic stock polishing, I've sanded it out to 1500 grit and then used a light pass with a medium heat propane torch. It works well in most plastics shine it. I'm not sure for your needs. It could be a short cut. Cheers.
Excellent work. A design feature that I used, and works well, is to use a 6mm thick clear acrylic base with an inset LED. This provides good illumination in less than ideal lighting conditions.
You can also center drill a perpendicular hole on the side of the base. It effectively turns the acrylic rod into a light pipe letting in ambient or led light.
@@bobweiram6321 Genius. Wish I had thought of that. Might be time to make another as I just got some nice acrylic rod blanks. Thanks Bob.
@@danceswithaardvarks3284 As an alternative to turning your own base, you can up cycle or purchase a solid metal knob and bore it out for the acrylic rod.
Thanks very much! I honestly don't think it's needed though, the illumination is amazing It blew me away just how bright it is. :)
I love the project. I noticed it because I’ve done something similar. I’ll pass on a couple of suggestions, not to say mine are better but more to just pass on ideas. As someone else pointed out, an easy way to index the flat end of the acrylic to the punch is to drill a fairly precisely matched hole in a block of scrap, I used hardwood😊, feed the punch in one end and the unmarked flat end of the acrylic into the other. Another suggestion is that the flat end of the acrylic can be pretty dark in use so can be a little difficult to align properly with the mark on the flat surface of the material to be center punched. I found that making the acrylic rod longer than the holder lets it the rod act as a light pipe significantly brightening the distal end of the acrylic rod when being used. To make a nice lens, I cut a 2.5 inch diameter hole in a piece of wood. Next I cut the wood to expose the semicircular inside of the hole. Next I used that inside diameter to hold sandpaper and then applied that curved sandpaper to the lens end of the rod as I spun the rod in the drill press. You can control the magnification of the lens by varying the size of the hole in the wood. Next I started making the holder blocks from acrylic, so the holder allows light in as well. That worked very well. I used a layer of 800 grit sandpaper instead of the rubber rings. I found that the rubber rings could sometimes slip a little between aligning the acrylic rod and the steel punch. I glued that sandpaper to the bottom of the block, that seems to eliminate all slippage. I initially 😊used water hardening drill rod as my punch. When applied to steel, depending on the hardness of the steel, it could dull my punch. I found some replacement center punch pins on line, they were cheap, $3 or so for a dozen. I drilled an acrylic spacer for the punch pins so can use that spacer with one of the pins inserted to mark harder materials. If it dulls, I can simply replace it with a new one.
This is a really great idea. I actually made one using a hand drill and an $8 drill guide block, as I don't own a drill press. While far from perfect, I tested it against my standard punch on a series of target-centers, trying my best to get perfect centers using both tools. My homemade magnifying punch worked better 9 times out of 10. Thanks for this video, especially the quick/easy method you show at the end.
Again a clever solution for an every-day-problem, that ends up becoming a piece of art. Thanks, Neil
Glad you like it - I have to say, I'm very happy with the design. :)
Instead of trying to sand and polish everything for a really nice finish on the perspex, you have use a flame.
It works really really quickly too.
When Ive cut perspex, even with a saw, you can take the saw marks out with flame alone, but if its a bit a rough cut, a quick sand with a flat block helps get a more level surface.
Flame will turn acrylic/perspex back to being like glass.
Great little project.
I'd put a cross hair on the top and on the bottom, to ensure you're looking straight down, and avoid parallax error.
I really enjoyed the video and learned a lot!! I especially appreciate the instructions at the end for those of us who don't have a milling station. You think of everything!
Glad you enjoyed it June and glad you found that bit helpful. :)
Your videos are always so great! You show your techniques in great detail, telling us your thought process and showing different ways of doing the same thing. Plus you just have a great perspective on how to get things done. Like using the spray paint lid for a little paint tray. Genius! Thank you for sharing.👍💪
i like how Neils confidence has grown with all the metal working , i been playing with wood work for years i am now tempted to take look at metal working :) , thanks Neil your an inspiration to us all :D
Thanks - you should definitely give it a go if you're tempted. I reckon all materials have their separate challenges which makes them interesting to work with. :)
Your extra effort to show the low tech version is appreciated
Lovely stuff mate! I had Corin around the workshop this morning he mentioned he was batching these out. I hope you get a commission! 😅
Awesome result Neil! Another very handy tool for the workshop.
Thanks very much Dan! :)
Loved the video. Especially the heat treatment at the end , something I’ve failed many times but now I think I know why. Many Thanks
Thanks very much Jeff! glad it was helpful. :)
I will say this brought back a memory from school, when the tool shop gave me a piece of extruded acrylic rod instead of the cast. It did make quite a boom when it popped on that lathe.
Another great project! I really like and appreciate how you often show how to make a high-end piece and a simpler one for those of us who don't have all the tools you do. But, no matter what you're making, watching you go through all the steps of making and thinking your way through something is always great.
For the cutout pieces, I think they'd make cool inserts/inlays for another project.
Just stumbled upon this channel. Gives a real insight on how precise the milling process is. As a furniture design and make student one of these would level up my work!
Great! At age 74 and having some exposure to mechanics I have never come across this before and may try this idea out.
Hey Pask, you're going to want to change out that grinding wheel on your surface grinder. Never grind on the side of a grinding wheel. It creates a thin spot in the wheel, which causes a stress riser. The face of the wheel can come off. It has killed people before.
we have them at work, we call them "bomb sights" but they accept hardened steel bushings of various sizes an can fit in a drill block.
you can then clamp it all up, align it and drill it in one go!
suprizingly accurate in the right hands.
we use the same kind of set ups with Leica laser trackers and CM arms too
The concentric rings are an excellent idea. So impressed with your milling machine and lathe.
Non seulement ce pointeur optique est une très belle idée mais la méthode pour le réaliser est aussi pleine de bonnes idées. Le fruit de l’expérience sans doute.
I have made a few plastic lens like that out of acrylic, you dont need to sand and polish as much, you use a hot air gun or pencil torch to melt the end after you shape it.
I've used the heat gun method on the edge of sheet perspex many times but I was unsure what it would do to the surface of the lens. It was super quick and easy to polish it though. :)
They look great! I love how you experiment with different materials and processes
The piston fit of this product is amazing! And it sounds great too!
Amazing project Neil and really good of you to show how to do it without fancy tools too
That magnet/digital angle gauge indexing trick on your lathe is genius. So clever and simple. Looking forward to trying it on my wood lathe. Another awesome video man.
Man, I love coming here seeing what weirdly interesting thing you've decided to make.
You, This Old Tony and only a few others really set the bar for professional amateurs.
Thanks very much - Glad you enjoyed it! :)
It's a very cool looking and functional tool. Nice one 🙂
Oh, gosh.. these are gorgeous.. such simple lines, and I'll bet they feel *great* in hand!
Greetings from Ohio USA. What a great video. I’m going to make a couple of these. Some of your machining tips and tricks are truly inspired. I can use this. Thanks.
Fantastic video as always! I love the addition at the end showing how it can be made with cheaper tools for us that don't have access to proper machining equipment.
Just started watching this video. One initial thought I had was it could do with a air hole/gap at the bottom. It will help with the risk of moving the tool when removing the lense due to the vaccume as it's a great fit.
Excellent video, been looking for a machining project for my A-Level engineering students. I'm totally stealing this idea 👍 thank you
0:24 such a satisfying sound
Nice. Thanks for showing the simple wood one. I don't have access to a machine shop so that wood one is right up my alley ad definitely doable in a very short time.
Awesome idea. Nicely made and very inspiring, as always!
What a nice practical tool Pask. Well done. After spending my life turning and milling I'm now too old to do anything but if I were able to put my hands on machines, I'd have loved to give it a go.
Nice project with lots of good ideas. Very cool touch at the end using more average hobby workshop tools. For the last one an alternative to the center spot is a center ring. Same setup but with an off center drill bit.
Love this format showing an optimal manufacturing process and what most of us could do as well. Only suggestion I have on the project is if the body could be clamped down, not hard, just enough and consistent pressure to retain position to avoid those inaccuracies you could get from the flex in the oring when you strike versus when you look
There's an aviation tool called a Bombsight by Bonde products that does something very similar, except it's used to hold drill bushings.
Just wanted to say, the detail with the rings although you say is unnecessary, the devil is in the detail and little things like that make a tool more than just a functional object. Therefore things like this should be encouraged!
Whoever ends up having these I hope use them extensively while treasuring them for the beautiful things they are.
Well done, sir.
This is a nice tool, thanks for sharing the making process. I think it would be a nice feature to have a second hole for the punch or the lens, whichever is not in use, or to store the center punch.
Amazing video, thank you very much, may I suggest that at the bottom of the punch holder you machine a 90° v shape so that it can be used on round surfaces.
That is a piece of art. Useful and beautiful at the same time. I really want one though I have rerely use for it.
As an apprentice I was told it takes a few years to drill a hole in the right place and a lifetime to learn to draw the lines in the right place
Very nice work sir. That looks like a handy tool
My first thought in terms of improvements is to cut little channels into the channel so that the lens and punch drop in quicker? It’s such a nice and perfect fit that air pressure builds when inserting and removing the inserts.
Excellent job, every time I see your video I’m amazed at the ingenuity and attention to detail. I hope to be able to own some of the tools seen here in the future, it just opens so many possibilities.
Thery are a lovely looking tool, and thanks for coming up with and videoing a good alternative for those of us without lathe and milling machine. Really appreciate it, and i learnt some nice tricks too!
Great project, they look fantastic! Thanks for the tip on the drill bit in the chuck transferred to the vice, very clever!
That brass one is a thing of beauty 💚🇬🇧🌱
Even though it's a chunky bit of brass, I would do a steel liner in the center hole to keep the hole keep its exact diameter. Awesome build and amazing video as always!
Love design choices
Very cool Pask ,I will be making one because I often have trouble leaning the centre punch into the right spot
Thanks for the video
Cheers from down south
What a lovely project!
Beautiful optical center punch. We shared this video on our homemade tool forum last week 😎
What a precise tool you made and it looks really good. I really enjoyed watching you doing it.
I would absolutely love to see you explore more luthier work! Love your videos as always!
Looking god, these ones!
An old machinist I talked to gave the advice to use denatured alkohol as a cutting liquid when working with aluminium.
It works great.
I learned a lot watching this! So much that I’ll need to watch it again and take notes. Thanks for the more basic tools version at the end.
Excellent job. I've had thoughts of purchasing one of these for a long time. Just never done that.
I enjoyed the video, thanks again.
One of the cool things about acrylic is when you hit it with a bit of heat it melts a bit and fills all the scratches leaving a polished surface idk if that's something that would work well for lenses since you might risk distorting the curve of the lens but could be worth a try and might save you some sanding in the future.
These are lovely! I've not seen my commercial version for a while, so I'll have to make one, following your plan.
Beautiful design!
Neil thank you for this beautiful project. I had great time while watching
Nice work, as always! Doing a few radial grooves on the bottom may help avoid drawing a vacuum when you remove the acrylic viewer
Ticked this then realised - the grooves have to go under the o-ring! :¬)
That's a awesome job👍🏻
I believe that you may be one of the best craftsmen I've ever seen
Excellent! One improvement would be crosshairs on the base. They would like nice with the circles, and it would make it quicker if the marks were near the base.
1:25 so satisfying!
Brilliant, just brilliant! I always enjoy your videos, and this was no exception. I like the tool's usefulness, and I love the idea of creating your own from wood. However, if I had the means, I would absolutely want to be able to make one from brass, as it looks amazing! Well done as usual, and thanks for sharing with us!
Wow, that’s a sweet little project.
I've seen these before and thought they were so cool. I love how you made them and the careful thought behind your design and creation. While you were making them, I wondered if you were going to give one to your mate, Corin. As soon as I had the thought, you said it.😁They are lovely, Neil. The recipients will cherish them. Thanks for sharing this.
Great idea, Neil, and well executed.
Such a great tool that most wouldn’t know that they need.
Mr. Pask is the definition of clever!
Not sure about that but thank you! :)
that's one the prettiest tools I've seen in a while.
Cool, that was neat! Very nice work!❤️👍
Very nice and I really appreciate you showing a low tech build even I can do.
Thanks Pask, once again a great project, my old eyes could really use one of these and I'll give it a go.
Nice! I made one of these when I got a small lathe, and it has improved my punchin accuracy no end, especially as my eyesight isn't as good as it used to be.
Your punches look way cooler though!
Brilliant! A much beefier design than the ones I've seen from the usual sources. And heavy is good. Brass with some Mallory metal slugs inside or similar would do well I believe, and here's an idea: an optical punch with a spring-loaded punch that can be set in the holder, push a button, and bam! a center mark made in situations where a hammer would be unusable, or for materials that would need that vs. the inertia of a hammer.
Lord of the rings 😊
Great tools anyone would enjoy working with. Well done my friend
I think you might have this backwards based on what I used fifty years ago. I had one of these in which the outer part was clear plastic with black crosshairs and inner part (center punch) was a carbide rod (maybe 1/8” diameter). A spring would keep the center punch retracted slightly. I lined up the cross hairs and tapped lightly. The resulting prick mark was enough to locate a regular center punch. Just a thought.
I was thinking we were always told to have full face contact on the annular cutters. I've done half holes on flat material but not on radius stock.
I guess with the softer materials you can get away with it though!
The Niroc tools are great too. I use my centerpunch and scribe on Hardox all day with no dulling so far.
This is so clever 👏 as someone who is visually impaired due to a traumatic brain injury these would be so helpful but unfortunately 180$ on a disability pension is out of my reach 😢 but keep up the great work mate and creating great work and content 👍