How To Convert 120V Receptacles Or Branch Circuits To 240V! (Also 240V To 120V)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.พ. 2025
- Learn how to easily convert 120v electrical receptacles or dedicated branch circuits to 240v, or convert a 240v receptacle (Branch Circuit) to 120v. A step by step DIY electrical guide. How to convert 120v or 240v electrical outlets, properly wire a circuit breaker panel and branch circuit using single and double pole breakers. Enjoy!
DISCLAIMER: Proper safety measures/precautions must be taken when working on 120v or 240v AC mains wiring(branch circuits). The potential exists for serious injuries, property damage, or death. If you're uncomfortable doing as shown in this video, or don't fully understand what was done, then you SHOULD NOT touch the wiring! This channel will not be held liable for the use or misuse of information contained in this video. The person modifying the wiring accepts full responsibility for his/her actions. ELECTRONICSNMORE LLC
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Remember guys, what you see shown in this video is ONLY for 1 or 2 receptacles that you'd like to convert on a DEDICATED Branch Circuit. You MUST confirm that there's nothing else on the branch circuit that you intend on modifying. The branch circuit used in this video for the demonstration was for a washing machine. You can also convert a 240V wall A/C receptacle in a room to 120V if the home no longer uses wall A/C units because the home was modernized with central air. Thanks for watching!
[ You can also convert a 240V wall A/C receptacle in a room to 120V if the home no longer uses wall A/C units because the home was modernized with central air.]
Only if it's split rail feed with a neutral. Many 240V feeds are two wire.
Is there any reason that you have to make it a single receptacle, if you want to plug in multiple 240 volt capable items?
Is it possible to split the black wire instead of converting the neutral to a hot line? In my case I have limited brakers and lights are also hooked up to the same braker.
@@draketracy6969 that would not double the voltage. You're just making a pigtail which does nothing.
@@dlloyd6300 lol thanks I replied to my other comment ..
I usually hate instructional videos because they're always way too long but only have about 2 mins of real talk. Sure this video was slow but it broke everything down perfectly for a beginner. Thank you
Glad you liked the video!
Another terrific "how to" video that's taught me something I need to know! Thank you!!
Thanks for watching! I'm looking forward to tomorrow's video!
Hi PF, you should test accuracy of electricians torque drivers, their cost of periodic calibration, etc. Both on incoming performance, (when sent in for cal, is it out of spec? Then find the last year's homes were loose?) and after re-calibration. Myself, I would trust a decades experienced electrician over a so-called torque wrench.
But are you going to test that? 👍🏼
didnt expect to see project farm here. thats awesome lol
@@mr.e8543 why?
2:29 the call-out to ensure nothing else like lighting is running off that line is a very important tip. Kudos.
Good explanation. One crucial point is that it's mentioned to turn a breaker on at one point. The tutorial then continues as if the breaker is turned back off, however, this is never mentioned. Timestamp at 7:10. If a beginner is watching this, they may experience a shock because of this. Other than that, it was complete and explained well.
Wow the way you explained everything so well that anyone can understand it. I get nervous when seeing people mess with the circuit breaker without turning it off. You obviously know what you are doing but mistakes always happen. People ALWAYS turn off your circuit breaker when working on it.
Thankyou for your video. I might as well have electro-phobia but I've seen others make instructional videos describing the same. I'm also in a bind and just cant get 220 wired in from an "expert" and also cant pay "expert" prices for a lil ole outlet. Its cool, I will do this and am responsible enough to cross compare your information with a massive amount of information I gather from other sources. As a responsible human I can arrive at a consensus and choose how to proceed. Thankyou for your contribution to the DIY space. People Like me are very thankful and will not BLAME YOU if we screw this up! You rock!
I needed to change a 240v baseboard heater line into a 120v receptacle and this is the video I needed! Thanks for the know how! Works great and now I have an extra circuit to play with.
Great to hear!
A Month ago, I got an upgrade water pump from 120 to 240. I converted the wiring to 240 and the pump did not work. I checked and re-checked the wiring and all the connections. Pulled my hair out for a week. Come to find out, my main panel is only 120 not 240 so I was just sending 120 twice to the final destination. So, make sure you tell everyone that they need to make sure the house is receiving two 120 wires into the main box, one for each leg. Lesson well learned. I ordered a transformer to convert it up to 240. Great video.
Man this video is awesome, i was working as an electrician's helper for awhile not too long ago, but the boss wasn't really keen on teaching me things like this. However, i watched him and asked questions, and learned some. I'll also admit, i'm not as quick as a learner as I used to be. Yet, from all that and watching this. it's safe to say I understand the basics. I'd be the perfect entry level electrician's helper for sure.
Glad you liked it! Be sure to look over my video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, and most importantly take one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites. Thanks Will
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Love the extra suspense element of having it live and pointing with the metal screw driver.
LOL
Yep typical electrician.
I enjoyed watching him work on a live panel with a wristwatch with a metal band. So exciting!
@@electronicsNmore you laugh at Clive and jumped into the throat of a guy you claimed was a brit. But as a former licensed journeyman electrician and OSHA 500 outreach trainer who teaches OSHA 10 and 30 hour classes, the safety things you laugh off now will kill you later. I’ve been to enough electrician’s funerals who were invincible like you.
Excellent video. All I'm saying is this. Experience or not, keep poking around in a hot electrical panel with anything, especially a metal screwdriver and your gonna get bit! I know it sounds backwards, but experience at this point is your enemy. No doubt you already know all this. Be safe..
my thoughts exactly, as i was waiting to see some arc blast.
At least use insulated screwdrivers.
Rubber!!?
Rubber saves lives🤣🤣
@@adamwortham6426prevents life's also
This is soooo old but soooo gooood! The knowing the possible is good enough, the way the information was related makes it stick in your head. Thank you....
BY FAR the best information ive seen so far... EXCELLENT VIDEO ....THANK YOU
If everybody that has ever done a tutoriol video was as concise as this ...THE WORLD WOULD BE A BETTER PLACE.
Glad to hear that you enjoyed my video! Be sure to check out my very wide range of videos and share. Thank you
Just a technical question. Do you happen to know where in the NEC it says you can mark neutral(white) wires as hot (or another color)?
As far as i know NEC says you can only do this if the wire is 6AWG or bigger. So as far as I'm aware, this video is not code compliant
That was my question. Is this code compliant?
Thanks so much for this video. It was very well presented and I learned a lot.
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I don't know why but 240 volts has always been a mystery to me. It never occurred to me that you could do what you just did. Thank you for explaining it so clearly a five year old could wire it!
I suspect not shutting the panel off and using a metal fish tape in a live panel are just a few bad examples that could eliminate a few of those five year olds pretty quickly. You should get a licensed electrician if you do not have the training before you make an ash of yourself or find yourself homeless.
Not all of us are electricians; many just can’t afford to pay one!
If you find yourself saying "There's a free spot for a new breaker! Hmmm, Hi Leg? High Leg? Wonder why someone wrote that on the free spot? " then you can't afford not to hire a licensed electrician!! Bye leg!! Lol. 🤯☠️. 120 Gets your attention. 240 gets you for keeps.
Richard, Instead of listening to what most people say, think of it this way. Your panel is 240 volts hot to hot. A neutral is added half way through the transformer to get two 120 volt connections.
@@philewuppallthwagh226good observation. If you come across a panel where every third slot is unused or occupied by a two or three pole breaker, the panel is almost certainly going to be three phase, supplied by a high leg delta, at 120/240V, 208V - ground high leg (or very rarely, 240/480V, 415V - ground high leg) . An easy to make mistake with this system is connecting a single pole breaker to the high leg - required to be marked orange and land on phase B (or C, for installations prior to the 1975 NEC) and smoke up everything on that circuit, always verify with a meter, in case the prior electrician was drunk and forgot to use the correct colors. ;-)
These services would only be found in commercial or industrial settings where most of the loads are 3 phase machinery, with limited 120V loads.
Excellent explanation all the way around. I've seen way too many other videos & explanations that are a bit lazy, which when dealing with electricity, is "bad".
Thanks for the compliment Ryan! Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, and most importantly take one minute to share a link to my channel with others.
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How beautifully explained. No confusion at all but yes some basic knowledge is required to appreciate this excellent video.
I don't keep up with changes but the last time I looked NFPA 70 it didn't allow changing a small neutral wire to a line by coloring just the ends. That was only allowed for 4 AWG and up.
NEC 2017 and 2020 started moving into identification of conductors. They avoided it for decades.
Man, watching your screw driver tip hovering between the two bus bars were exciting!
LOL. It looked much closer than it was.
Also , touching a live bus is not a huge deal, as long as you don’t touch anything else, the other bus or the chassis of the box. I’ve made the mistake of moving to fast with my screwdriver in my hand and accidentally grazed both live bars, melted the tip off my screwdriver and I stunk like burnt electrical for the rest of the day. Ruined a nice Klein screwdriver
Perfect timing! I found an old 240v Craftsman air compressor in the trash and lugged it home. I'm curious to see how it works! Just need to swap out one of my 120v outlets in the shop to 240v. This video was very helpful! Thank you!
You need to make sure the receptacle is on a dedicated branch circuit before converting, otherwise you'll end with 240v at a 120v receptacle.
@@electronicsNmore I could see that causing a problem for sure! Will definitely make sure there is nothing else on the circuit! Love your videos! Thanks again!
Converted my kitchen 20A duplex’s to a single 220V and am running a 2.4kW toaster and a 3kW kettle - breakfast is ready much much faster now!
@LabRat Knatz brought them from the UK. Installed some Leviton BSRDP-W outlets - awesome setup.
11:07 Ha! Neutral bus seldom has a dangerous potential on it, except in rare conditions where the triplex meets the tails, and the ground connection is faulty. Note that it is _never_ save to touch a neutral on the inside wiring, because the return path to the bus is unreliable. Many will be shocked to find this out the hard way.
Laughed when he did that. I'm inside a box like that, I'm wearing gloves and using insulated tools.
For your info (related to your statement @ 0:58 thru 1 min. 32 sec. here), it is perfectly OK and NEC code legal to use a 15 amp duplex receptacle on a 20 amp/12 gauge wired/20 amp circuit and has been that way as far back as I can remember. You can look this up in NEC table below:
Table 210.21(B)(3) Receptacle Ratings for Various Size Circuits
Surprising that they would allow a 15A rated receptacle on a 20A rated line.
@@electronicsNmore The reasoning behind that is that the inner workings are actually built to sustain a 20 amp current but because of the outlet design (without the "T" slot) they will only ACCEPT a male plug from a 15 amp rated appliance, so with a 20 amp circuit/breaker, it would never be over amped; it's like extra insurance for any 15 amp appliance/lights etc., you just can't do the reverse (20 amp rated plug/appliance into a 15 amp/14 gauge circuit).
BTW, love your channel and have learned much.
@@bobrub In that case, they should sell them as 20A rated. Glad you enjoy them!
@@bobrub IIRC you needed more than 1 receptacle on that circuit to use a 20amp receptacle....but i may be wrong, and would have to look it up (logically it doesn't sound right, and may have my wires crossed).
@@john-smith. please elaborate ... what does this sentence "more than 1 receptacle on that circuit to use a 20amp receptacle" refer to? I did not say anything about a single receptacle?
I can't believe this was free. Thank you!
You're welcome!
I went to training school many years ago and I almost forgot.
Thank you.😢
What did you do to connect a neutral wire to that 240v outlet? Or it just have the 2 hot wires and the ground?
This 240 V receptacle is two hots, + equipment ground. The white wire needs to be recoded with black or red tape to show that it's acting as a hot wire.
I really like the detail in your presentation. Thanks for the great presentation. A minor safety tip is hold the receptacle so that if your screw driver slips it won't skew your holding hand.
Glad you enjoyed the video Calvin!
so said that if it is a 15A circuit that the wire gauge must be 14G. but isn't it correct that the wire gauge can always be bigger but not smaller which means that the 12G cable can be used for 15A.?
Yes running larger wire is fine, but you cannot safely go the other way around, for instance you should never swap a 15A breaker for a 20A if the wiring is 14 guage. If you see 12 awg on a 15A breaker it should be safe to swap to a 20A after checking a few often overlooked things. For circuits over 100 feet the electricians likely stepped up the wire size to avoid excessive voltage drop. Also someone may have extended the circuit with 14 guage, and it would be unsafe to use a 20A since the 14 guage section could heat up dangerously before drawing enough current to trip the breaker.
15 A receptacles are allowed to be on 20 A circuits for two reasons: code and specs. Every good quality 15 A receptacle is specified to handle 20 A pass through on the terminals. Then again, it’s always better to pigtail instead of use both terminals to avoid dealing with pass through current in every receptacle.
Why do you say thet phase carries power when both neutral and phase wires carry power since is alternateing current?
Great video.
Although in most cases a 240 volt receptacle will be on an individual branch circuit for one appliance such as a heavy duty air compressor in the garage, there are some situations where it is acceptable to convert a 120V circuit to 240V, with more than one receptacle, replacing all the receptacles with NEMA 6-15/6-20. You'll most often see this in grow houses where high powered grow lights are used, since this allows for twice the total wattage for a given amp draw, thereby resulting in significant savings in wiring costs. Most metal halide, high pressure sodium and LED luminaries have quad ballasts, where they can be wired for 120, 208, 240, or 277V, with some models having 5 taps, allowing for 480V as well. Many integrated LED luminaires, and commercial grade electronic fluorescent ballasts are 120 ~277V universal voltage as well.
I liked it when you said make sure only 1 device is connected to the circuit when converting. This is always missed! Great job Thumbs up and a like from me!
Why can only one device be connected to the circuit?
3:50 perfect ElectroBoom opportunity 😁
Good video!
Thanks for watching! Be sure to check out my latest electrical video as well.
I have been baffled as I think in DC and although never had an issue with 115 with the neutral, the 230 concept escapes me. AC being a different beast the box was also a place on confusion. Never thought about I guess what they call phases, and even after over decades on the planet I have wired houses and changed out breakers, switches etc I still always thought a neutral (which i equated to negative) was needed. Your video helps alot as i was just wanting to convert some water pumps to 230 and never even knew the wire colors. Will have to rewatch in order to rewire my thinking from years of working on cars, bikes and some planes.
Dude, just remember 110 plus 110 equals 220. All the second one is, is two hots instead of one. super simple. Same concept with two hots.
@@jackreacher4100 Yeah I just had to accept the fact that it just the way it is and a different animal from DC
I was thinking the same thing... wondering "sooo, how do you get the neutral?" I guess since the neutral and grounding bar are the same thing, he's using the ground wire as the path back to the panel to complete the circuit.
@@Ottero87 I don’t think the 230 needs it being alternating phase, but don’t quote me as Tesla was a genius…
Thanks for being so concise and thorough. You're a good instructor.
Would the load work if the Ground was removed? Not clear on how the 240V works without neutral a return wire to complete the circuit path.
Yes, but for safety reasons you leave it connected. With 2 hot lines, the current flows between the 2 legs.
@@electronicsNmore 180 degrees out, positive to negative, circuit complete.
You wouldn’t have to make a neutral wire a hot wire if you already have 2 black(hot) wires would you? I’m converting a regular 120 double outlet to a single 240 volt 15 amp and was confused that no neutral was needed.
Just an FYI:
It's perfectly acceptable to have a 15 amp outlet on a 20 amp circuit so long as there are at least two outlets on the circuit. A single duplex receptacle qualifies as two outlets.
The reason why it's safe and code compliant is that 15 amp receptacles are built to the same standards 20 amp receptacles are. They are perfectly capable of passing along 20 amps. If you take a 15 amp and 20 amp receptacle apart, you'll find they're almost entirely identical except for the extra sideways slot for 20 amp plugs.
Tl;dr: so long as you don't need to use any devices with a 20 amp plug, 15 amp receptacles are just fine on a 20 amp circuit.
@@Billy.80 Whatever. OP’s statement was overly broad.
I wouldn’t assume existing outlets in an older home are able to handle 20A. Heck, some aren’t even polarized or grounded. I certainly wouldn’t encourage people to put 20A through them and I’m sure our man making the video doesn’t want the legal liability either.
Old outlets/wiring is exactly why our Chevy Volt defaults to 8A on 120v and requires you to override for 12A. It specifies a Level 2 charger (220-240v) and a 30A receptacle for a maximum of 16 amps.
Never seen any electrical device or appliance with a 120V 20A male plug, in any residential, commercial, or industrial setting.
@@WoodgemanX I've seen one old window AC that used a 20 amp plug. But that's incredibly rare, because usually anything too large for a 15 amp circuit switches to requiring 240 volts.
@@emmettturner9452 you may have a point that some old outlets really aren't capable of passing through 20 amps, I dunno. But anything not extremely old certainly can, and if you have outlets so old you're not comfortable that they can pass 20 amps, I'd probably consider replacing them.
@@elijahwatson8119 I just went back to the tornado-damaged home we used to live in and found that the landlord’s contractors did not repair the outlet my brother left hanging out of the garage wall to draw their attention to it. It was melted by that same Chevy Volt charger I mentioned before that draws a maximum of 12A. Many outlets cannot sustain the amperage they are rated for. That is the exact reason you have to override the default of 8A every time you want to charge at 12A. The home was about 15 years old. The place we are staying now is also tornado damaged. I believe it was built in the ‘50s and most of the outlets are like nothing I’ve ever seen. They almost look like those foreign outlets that can take blades or round prongs but they are actually two T-shaped contacts with no ground. The place has no heat so we have to run space heaters but there’s no way would I run 20A through these.
I just had to install a 240v garage heater in my rented workshop so I could sleep there. 240v equipment is against the least but they already had a NEMA 5-20 connected to 240v. I didn’t find out until I plugged in my shop lights and it fried them. Now I play dumb just so I can get the car charged at Level 2 (no other place to charge it) and I get to run the heater. I still don’t trust the old outlet so I swapped it with a NEMA 6-20 and made a NEMA 14-30 pigtail for my heater.
Very clear, no nonsense, learned a ton. Thank you very much!
Great to hear Rupert! Be sure to rate thumbs up, consider subscribing if you like a wide range of helpful and informative videos, and look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you. Taking one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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As per code you can use either a 15 or 20 amp outlet on a 20 amp circuit.
Only if it’s duplex. If dedicated simplex, it must be 20 amp on 20 amp branch circuit.
Thank you for the video very informative! I recently change to a tankless water heater and I want to use the wire that went to the water heater and put a 120v outlet, or if I can two outlets. So following your video, I need to go to the breaker change the 2 pole 25 amps breaker for a single pole 20 amps one. They used a romex cable with a white, black and ground, and indeed they put black tape on the white wire. I wouldn’t be able to get two 120v outlets out of that romex cable because I would not have a common wire if I use both the black and white wires as hot wires would I. So, with that romex I will only be able to have one outlet, and would have to put that white wire on the common bar, right?
Thank you,
Victor
thanks for the video I can now fix my house, some moron removed a 15amp breaker for my sump pumps and made a 240v circuit for a tanning bed... priorities.
Glad it helped
Thanks for letting me know more through this video!
The receptacle only has to match the circuit for amperage rating if it’s a single receptacles on the circuit. Code allows for multiple 15A receptacles on a 20A circuit.
One of, if not the best, video explaining this conversion. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful Henry! Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, and most importantly take one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites. Thank you!
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4:25 That outlet looks like a smiley making a wink and one eye dead and the mouth doing 'ohh' 😂
:-)
Great Great tutorial , not sure the average person could follow or understand, a lot if information. Hopefully this will send the average person to a license elect.
Thank you may I will change 240 voltage for electrical range like this . Do I need to change the wire also? Or more big wire? Thx
Great video. Helped me win an argument 😂
I need to do something like this in my air conditioning closet to add a 120v receptacle but I also need to keep my 240v receptacle.
Could I also get a 120v receptacle out of the 240v one by adding a pigtail to one of the hot lines as well as the green ground wire and connecting each one of these to the corresponding 120v receptacle screws without having to get a neutral from the breaker like you did here? Hope I explained that correctly.
Thank you for this informative video.
I am planning to do the same for a washing machine
Shall we use earth leakage protection breaker.
If yes, what are the recommended specs manuf./model.
I'm wondering if/why you don't need a neutral wire for a 240V circuit?
One of the best elec videos that ive seen.
I was able to install two 240 volt 15 amp outlets for a Creda and then a Bosch set of washer and dryers by adding two extra circuit breakers. The first European machines sold in the USA were able to run on 60 hz 240 volt 15 amp flat blade plugs like you showed in your 15 amp example. Is that a NEMA 6-15 outlet? This was done back in the 1990's.
Yes, NEMA 6-15R. You can also do this if you had a 3000W kettle imported from Europe, although you'd have to use or make an adapter, or cut the plug off and wire on a 6-15P to use it in the US. Appliances with motors or transformers imported from European countries, however, can be problematic when used on 240V in America, because they were designed for 50Hz, whereas North America uses 60Hz.
Best video thus far! Trust me I’ve watched several lol
Glad you enjoyed!
👍🏻 Your videos and Project Farm are by far my favorite channels. Even though I have subscribed to both and have checked off the bell 🔔, they don't come up unless I search. I think You Tube is going down the tubes.
Great to hear! I'm not surprised by what you said about YT notifying you. I have close to 40K subs that have all notifications set to on, meanwhile I get only a few hundred watching, the rest are non-subs. YT is giving me the shaft really good, video after video. I should be getting at least 30-50K views per video. Thanks for watching Frank!
@@electronicsNmore What all social media is doing across the board is insane. They are so unfair to put mildly. I hope somehow you can get YT to fix the problem. You are amazing, keep up the great work. I have a lot of catching up to do back tracking watching your videos.
@@frankbiz i completely agree, unfortunately sharing is necessary.
@@electronicsNmore Sometimes web counter algorithms can be iffy. More than 20 years ago, I tried out different applets for this. Visit counts can be implemented exclusively, inclusively, and with a laundry list of options and or bugs. Back in the old days it was elementary for someone to pump his own counter with a bot externally, and the big boys like Google and Yahoo try to prevent this by implementing their own devices. But any thing can be circumvented, even with the shortage of available IPv6 addresses. There is a a lot of cheating on sites such as Flickr and Facebook... That said, the analytics don't always stack up on the view count, especially with so many public IP addresses being reissued by broadband providers who provide service for LANS, WANS, etc..
Excellent presentation. Concise and just enough views of the actual work being done. You got right to the point without a lot of unneeded chatter. Have seen a number of these and yours is the best. I already knew how to do this but I like watching some presentations out of curiosity. Also worthwhile as a memory jog if haven’t done in awhile. Nice presentation!
You have the best videos end explanations
If those 110V wire only good for 15A, there was the 110V 15A breaker on it. What is the A of the 220V breaker that you installed?
The wire was #12, which is matched to a 20A breaker.
Great video, thank you and question.
I wanted to replace a double regular size 240v braker for a double slim size braker to make space for a new slim braker.
I put the 2 slim brakers on the bottom of braker box but never got the 240v because they weren't touching the horizontal metal bar that connects both sides of power legs which was higher in braker box, so I had to put back the big regular size double braker which connects to the horizontal plate and gives me the 240v.
Is there a way that I can use the double slim braker to ger the 240v and make space for another single slim braker?
Please advise.
This is one of the better tutorials I have seen in quite some time; it would be great if you had one on hooking up a five wire, four pole three phase 240 volt twist lock receptacle; and or a two pole 240 volt on and off switch for a full size home HVAC blower motor, ( squirrel cage type ), that I mounted on the upper back wall of my workshop, I am building a heat collector and constructed and a ventilation channel to the blower motor to pull out excessive heat out the shop; and need to install a switch to turn it off and on. I had it wired for 120 volts, but it was only running at half speed; which was enough to suck the doors shut, but didn't have enough CFM to pull enough of the excessive heat out; and I ran a line off that runs to a filter chamber; that I can connect up as a sawdust table when Dremel carving. Thanks for the video; foray, a really top notch step by step by the numbers.
This was an awesome 👏🏽 video!! Literally followed what you said and did, but with 12 gauge wire, and works perfectly for my 230v 15amp AC!! Thanks bro!!
Great to hear!
What about the bear copper wire When you make the 2 hot ones is the bare copper wire Just there for ground? How does that work without a neutral?
Excellent explanation and tutorial. I learned something today. Thanks.
@@johnnycincocero Glad you enjoyed the video! Be sure to check out my extensive video playlists as well for other videos of interest to you.
@@electronicsNmore I definitely will. Liked and subbed. Thanks again.
stellar explanation and demonstration. I finally get it.
One question... in my case, the 110 outlet that I want to convert to 220V is fed by a 12/2 romex, meaning I have a 12 gauge black and white, and a thinner gauge bare ground wire. I understand how to use the black and white as hot wires, but an electrician has told me that because the ground is of a smaller gauge, it cannot be used as the ground, since it cannot handle the return load (I don't understand that concept). And he says that since the ground is bare, if it touches the metal box, it would energize it. Is this all true? He recommends I run a new 12/3 Romex to the box.
How did you identify which neutral wire was the one coming from the receptacle?? Thanks
Very detailed tutorial. Question, let's say a outlet has four sockets where you can plug different appliances to them, it is 15amp sockets and circuit, will increasing the circuit say to 30 amp, increases the load this outlet can handle? And therefore more load for the four sockets? But they are still the 15amp sockets. Normally the overall load the sockets can take 15amp in total and that is almost 4amp each if all sockets are plugged.
Maybe a better question is , how do you , if there's a way, make all four sockets capable of handling 15amp individually even when they are all plugged in the same time, under one single circuit ? I know if you use four different circuits you can do that, my question is under one single circuit. Thanks in advance
@beijing561 it's doesn't work like that. The only way you can "increase the circuit to 30A" is by changing the wire and circuit breaker itself or running an entirely new circuit to the breaker box.
Also if those outlets are all on one circuit, it's 15A total. There is no breakout unless each outlet is on its own circuit/breaker.
Hi electronicsNmore, For example, I have a panel 3 phase in 120v each. Can you please explain how I can get 208 from this 120v three phase, what kind of braker, what kid of disconnector. At disconnector what max. fuse to use, what is the + or - tolerance ( for example the machine at the other end is 50 Amps max) Thank you, George
You'd use a two pole breaker, approved by the panel manufacturer, line to neutral is 120V, line to line is 208V, in a 208Y/120V service, very common and typical for small/medium commercial and light industrial settings in the US and Canada.
Less common is a 120/240V 3ph 4w, commonly known as high leg delta. In this system line to line is 240V, 2 of 3 phases is 120V to neutral, the other phase to neutral is 208V, the high leg, this is required to be colored orange, and land on phase B in a panel - installations before the 1975 NEC required the high leg to land on phase C. Outside at the meter, the utility company is required to land the high leg on the far right side of the meter socket - phase C.
1. NEVER, EVER work on electrical, whilst wearing jewelry or watches.
2. NEVER, EVER use a metal object, (screwdriver), as a POINTER inside an electrical cabinet.
3. NEVER, EVER TOUCH a NEUTRAL BAR. A system fault, CAN be HIDDEN and the neutral CAN be carrying FULL PHASE VOLTAGE.
I knew it was just a matter of time before a Brit would come along and post a comment like yours. They've been problematic on a few of my electrical videos.
@@electronicsNmore Awe, don't take it personal. You do good vids! But a BRIT?? I'm no Brit. I am an U.S. Air Force Nuclear Weapons electronics technician, and an electrician whose wired many houses. So,, when it comes to EWEKTWISITY, I know a thing or two. BUT, if Brits have been posting on your vids, BE thankful. Them, BRITS, are FAR better educated than us YANKS. Best to heed their advice, warnings, etc. They know what they're talking about. Usually, you do too, but, you definitely weaved out of your lane, just a weeeee bit, on this one.
@@BYENZER You said, "whilst", a British word. The watch on my left wrist(I'm right handed), sure that can be an issue, but after decades, never a problem. As for the screwdriver, the handle was insulated, and the tip was 1 1/2" away, so not a problem. It may have looked closer on video. The neutral wire should never be live on a well functioning electrical system UNLESS the neutral wire has a very poor connection or if it's disconnected from the transformer. The panel is bonded to the neutral, that means I shouldn't touch the panel with my bare hands either? I said very clearly in the video, "I don't recommend you do it". In the future, I suggest you do not use caps. It's no different than yelling at me, and it pisses me off. I have no respect for viewers that yell at me, or demean me.
Here's how a BRIT would reply to your last reply: "My My! Me thinks, thou doth protesteth, quite much"!
Hang in there tiger! You're doin alright. Just plz show safer electrical practices when preaching to the masses. And, always remember this: "Never let, someone you dislike, take up residence in your head,,,, rent free"! Carry on sir. Carry on!
This is one of the most helpful videos I have found. Thank you so much. I learned so much.
Buying a hybrid heat pump dryer 14amp 240v. Right now I have 2 dedicated 120v branch outlets running on a 12/3 Romex w/ bare ground and converting to 6-20r. Would I use the neutral wire as ground and just tuck away the bare ground wire? If so should I also unhook the bare ground from the bar on the panel since it's not being used?
How would you go from the 120/240v panel shown in this video to a 240v single pull device? Do you need a transformer and disconnect at that point?
You're swapping out a 5-15 or 5-20 to a 6-15 or 6-20 resp. Are you out of luck if you need a 14-15 or 14-20?
Yes, you'd need to replace the two wire cable with a 3 wire, or if conduit was used and large enough, another wire (white - neutral) would need to be pulled, because NEMA 14 devices have 4 slots because they are used for dryers, ranges and other specific pieces of equipment that use 240V AND 120V. The 120V components tap one line to neutral, making a standard NEMA 6 device unsuitable - DO NOT ATTEMPT TO CHEAT AND USE THE GROUND AS A NEUTRAL.
@@Sparky-ww5re Thanks
What can I do if I have a window AC unit that has the cord that plugs into the receptacle at 4:54
But my wall outlet is a 110 receptacle?
Hi . Good explanation .. But I have a question For a Wilder 225AC is OK 220v. Or need more thank you.
???
I watch your video to learn in which I have . Thanks , don’t watch video and critics.
Great job explaining. Thank you!
My apartment they replaced my 240 AC with a 120, and plugged it into a nearby regular outlet. The 240 outlet was left unused. This overloaded the outlet circuit which was constantly tripping, I replaced the 240 with a single 20A 120v outlet, and corrected the connections in the box
Great explanation, however since the circuit is ran using conduit (PVC) you must replace the white conductor with a different color. Taping the white conductor would be acceptable if the wiring system was a cable, but since this is conduit, it is against code to color identify wires that are smaller then 4AWG.
geez. Make your own video.
@@anthonyz5671 pretty simple: you can't phase tape conductors smaller then 4awg in a raceway.
I believe the NEC says the ground must be green and the neutral white if under #4. The two loads are not discussed in the NEC and can be taped or colored to identify them. We do it all the time in our jurisdiction and never fail code inspections.
Hi, I have a question. is it still possible to convert 120 to 240 V if I only have 2 wires? only hot and neutral. no ground wire.
This video was excellent! Thank you!!
Great video. Thank you.
so it's the AMPS alone that require changing the wire gauge, not the voltage, because you said that you are going from 120v to 240v but you are reusing the same wire that's there. Right?
Hey, does the ground need to be connected to the receptacle or is it enough that it's grounded to the box.
Thanks
Most people: Omg, thank you for the great video.
Armchair Experts: Omg, a screwdriver!
Good video, always be careful of shared neutrals especially in older houses or homes with lots of addition or in commercial environments where things are always being added, You could potentially send another leg of 120v to things you don't want to.
Behind my box there are two white wires and two black wires. And one of the outlets is connected to all of the outlets throughout my studio. Can I still do this?
Thank you very much for this explanation. My question is which wire functions as the neutral now that both wires are hot? How does the circuit complete and the electricity flow back to the panel? Thank you for your assistance.
You're welcome! The neutral is nothing more than a center tap of the Transformers winding. From either end of the winding to the center will give you 120 volts. From each end of the winding or the full winding you will get 240 volts.
Great explanation. got confusing a bit when u switched in the middle of 120 to 240 explanation to the reverse.... but at least now it is clear what goes into a conversion.
Very clearly slowly safely demonstrated. 👍
Thanks for watching James!
i have a question for you after i liked your video.. if i do what you said in the video and i have more receptacles have 120V. and i need to keep them at 120v. what i should do?
You don't have to loop the wires if you look at the receptacle there's a groove put the straight wire in the groove will hold the wire while you bend it around the screw BTW thanks for the video the blue and the yellow always trip me up on my motorcycle so now I know thanks a lot
I have an outlet that has a 240v outlet like you are putting on there. Can I put a 15 Amp 240v outlet like the outlet shown in corner on the box?
Hi. Amazon sent me a tool that is 240V, but the plug is a standard US 120V plug???? lol, am I supposed to be able to use this in my home, because the 240 you show doesn't look like it will take a standard plug Am I missing something?
This is the best TH-cam video on this topic!
Couldn't I do this with a DC setup? If I had a DC to AC inverter that output two legs of 120V, couldn't I just wire it the same way shown here?
Bro.. you should be using a Lazer pointer for your Explanation in the panel, not to mention your not even using an Electricians insulated Is screwdriver . Also what size Gauge wiring is ran for your new Receptacle. Should be 10 Gauge. With a 30 amp breaker. Nice video, stay safe out there.