Eric, your videos are terrific. I'm the mom of a disabled (adult) child with health probs of my own. In my spare time, I started watching you a while back on my phone, computer, or ROKU. Since then, you've saved me I don't know how much trouble and money. Your concise yet thorough explanations and good use of a camera are very appreciated!
Thank you Eric. I love these old videos. Your videos have helped , and inspired me over the years. It has been pivotal in changing the course of my life for the better!
Wanted to say thanks for making this video. I have a 94 Lebaron Conv that needed new bearings and I couldn’t figure out for the life of me, how to remove them from the hub assembly. I rented a press, posted on a bunch of forums, etc and no one explained it like you did. I followed your tips and they came out with almost no problems at all.
This vid merited me becoming a subscriber. I recently got a 1973 Ford F250. After its OE died, it sat in the garage for 10 years while his kids fought over it. Finally, the mother had had enough. She called the local garage and told the guy that if he picked it up that day, he could have it for free. It's a beautiful truck, but after replacing all rubber/gaskets, it needed brakes. Mechanic told me 1300 for pads, rotors/drums--you changed that plan! I did the whole system for less than 500. THX!!
Just had to rebuild all my brakes last weekend. 94 dodge ram. Havent had to do bearings in years. You never really forget it though. Love the videos. Keep it up.
Been watching for about 5 yrs. Doing my front brakes soon. You are the "Only one" of about 200 YT brake vids I've watched that explain which direction the grease seal goes. I have been known to not get it right. Great detail on this one.
Chevy GMC '99 Play in one front wheel. I ordered ACDelco Timken Berings S6 S7 inner bearings and inner seal and outer bearings. Did not use the 2 new races. Compared the brake pads positions on caliper pins on the other side to re-install right. Hand filled the new bearings. New cotter pin. per Ericthecarguy brake pads were near new. Put TireShine w/ polymer (rubber preserver) on the rubber hose (and any rubber bushings and weather stripping)
@Buchoass Didn't mean to interrupt your work but thanks for taking the time out to watch. As for pricing it's my policy not to go over pricing sorry, too much liability.
I'm thinking most guys watching this video are trying to save some money , so why change a good bearing , a properly set bearing will last the life of the car just replace the grease as it gets contaminated m and worn out by use ..Eric does a great job in showing how most guys can do these jobs in their garage without too many specialty tools . Industrial machinery running constantly can have bearings last 10 years with proper maintenance , compare that to your car .
Both my 1997 Ford F-150 and 2008 Ford E-350 uses these tapered bearings. Never dealt with these type of bearings before but you're video saved me lots of time and prevented mistakes! Thx!
@sheupel No, that seal replacement is a bit more involved. On a GM you would need to remove the cover on the diff to remove the 'c' clips that hold the axles in. The closest thing that I have for that is the video I did on changing the bearings on a Jeep, I think that video is listed under "Removing Pressed On Bearings".
@ddut887 Thank you for that great comment. Now that I think about it your right, I should have used a clean set of gloves, I'll keep that in mind next time thanks.
I just watched the whole video as I do to most Eric the Car guy videos - I don’t even own a GM - but love learning something new! Such a wealth of info provided by Eric’s videos over the years ! We are very lucky.
@13FravelJ The only time a rotor needs to be addressed is if there is a brake pulsation or damage to the rotor itself, many manufacturers recommend just replacing pads when brakes are needed if the criteria mentioned above are met.
@EricTheCarGuy My first real car was an Olds 88 with that style of brakes and being a teenager, I had to learn to improvise. I like the way you adapt because not everyone has the "right" tools. Yet you still do your job in an even tempered, professional manner.
@wizkid01 Good point. The new rotors had new races installed so it wasn't necessary to install new ones. Use a bras drift and a hammer to get the old ones out and the new ones in if you ever have to do it. I still have the old rotors so I might do a short video on replacing the races. Thanks for the comment.
This video may be ancient but the information is exactly what I needed to put together the bearings on my Studebaker. And it's incredibly well edited for being a 12 year old YT video. Thanks for posting his.
@asshatpolice I agree about the cotter pins, I did mention that replacement was the best option but I agree with you 100%. Thanks for the comment and your input. Sorry I got there first, you know you could always make the video and post it as a response to this one, or I could post mine to yours.
@southernpride903 I agree that you first need to find out what's loose. Watch the video I did on Axle Ball Joint Replacement, at the end I show how to check for play in the front suspension, this works for just about every make. Good luck.
Your are awersome! Been watching your channel for a long time. Your are helping me keep my 1996 chevy blazer going which now has over 341,000 miles on it! Thanks so much
I'm only new to this channel, I'm looking to start my trade soon as a Heavy Vehicle Mechanic in the army to pursue my interest in Auto mechanics. I'm already addicted to this channel! Loving it and will watch every video, Thank you Erik for teaching others! I think it's really great how easily you are making it to learn! Something I've always wanted to do. I wish I had the opportunity to have a Lecturer with your talent! Great channel hope you keep up the good work
Thanks for this. I started to do brakes and rotor on a relative's GMC van today and was surprised to see a setup like this. I wasnt confident to proceed, but now I know what to do. Thanks for all the details and advice..
@southernpride903 The lubrication of the slide pins and the brake pads helps a great deal to keep things quiet, the rest is up to the part. Perhaps you should recheck your work to make sure everything is correct just to be sure.
Thanks Eric! Great video, I really appreciate your sense of humor. Your genuine passion for your work shines through in this video. I also appreciated the "improper tool usage" story. I am imagining your instructor scolding you multiple times for shortcutting and using the wrong tool. I look forward to torquing the bearings on my new-to-me 94 dodge wagon.
Just wanted to say thanks so much for the video. It was very informative and left me without any questions. I'm a new school car guy that is in love with his older GM. Felt stupid to ask this type of question on the forums.
Great video my man. You helped me to save $800 on two occasions now. Thanks for covering all the steps, (unlike the 100 other videos i've watched), in laymen's terms; as i was not so mechanically inclined in the whole fixing cars department. I've even been offering my family, assistance in my newfound expertise, all thanks to you. Best regards.
Amazing video Eric. I've gotten a 1975 mustang 2 and I'm going to replace the rotors and drums(drums look original, maybe rotors too) and I've never done these kind of bearing or rotors before and this video is perfect for a first timer. It looks like these old style bearings are actually a million times easier to replace than newer ones.
@southernpride903 The #1 complaint after a brake job is noise, the #1 cause in my experience is cheep replacement parts and poor installation procedures.
@fixinggrace Good call on the cheater bar. Funny thing, I had cut the scene where I said not to spin the bearing while cleaning it with compressed air for 2 reasons, first, I thought it sounded kind of "preachy", second I wanted to keep the video as close to 30 min as I could and that saved me 20 seconds. Great comment, thanks for watching.
This brings back memories of my dad teaching me this at about 12 years old. I have an '89 Trans Am GTA that's mine and I'm doing the same exact thing on. Thanks for the video and bringing back fond memories of my dad teaching me how to work on cars!
@614gummybear That honestly sounds more like a problem with the CV joint and not the bearing. If you are making a right turn and hear the noise it's usually the left CV that is the problem.
I read a procedure for preloading bearings in an owners manual long long ago (I'm 77). Use a torque wrench and tighten castle nut to 80 ft/lbs, the wheel won't turn, back off, turn the wheel, then retighten to 20 ft/lbs, wheel will rotate but it will be tight, loosen castle nut to next available cotter pin slot and install. It is important to rotate the wheel when doing this and note if there is any binding, this would indicate the bearing wasn't seated squarely most likely is cause by the outer race not being fully seated. In the end, the wheel should rotate without any drag with very little play in the bearing. At most you will go back to the second available slot for the castle nut. In any case I really don't like this combination of rotor and hub in one assembly, hubs can last the life of the vehicle, rotors have to be replaced after a couple of brake jobs. The one advantage is that it forces the mechanic to check and grease the wheel bearings.
What you're describing must have been for adjusting ball bearings, not tapered roller bearings. I don't know what kind of car your manual was for, but It seems a bit extreme even for ball bearings. I have the 1957 Chevrolet shop manual, when ball bearings were in use, and the torque is 33 ft/lb for them, then back off enough to insert the cotter pin. It never says to torque to 80 ft/lbs at any time. Tapered roller bearings started being used in Chevrolets around 1962. Roller bearing adjustment is totally different from ball bearings, and should not be adjusted like ball bearings or damage will occur to the bearing. When roller bearings are properly adjusted, they will have no pre-load on them, and will not even be finger tight.
Thanks EricTheCarGuy, this video, like many others of yours have greatly helped and educated me! Just did my inner and outer front wheel tapered roller bearings on my '99 Mitsubishi Canter. It was daunting at first, to do a job I've never done before, not a mechanic but i'm eager to learn and do jobs myself.
@nizmojoeblows I've done it lots of times when confronted with the same situation. The procedure is as follows: put a wrench on the brake line fitting on the caliper, have a buddy push down on the brake pedal, crack the line loose (put a pan under it) and when the fluid stops flowing close the fastener just like you would a bleeder, THEN have your buddy lift up off the pedal. Do it that way and you shouldn't get any air in the system.
I thought I would just stop back and thank you for posting this video. I used your video to help with my son's 2001 ford ranger (front wheels), and your advice is gold. The audio is great, video is really well lit, and composition is outstanding.
@RAJSTA81 I did just shoot a video of a timing belt replacement on a 99 Integra with a 1.8 DOHC but that won't work for you. I've gotten in the habit of recording every timing belt I do and should I come across the one you asked for I will let you know. Thanks for the comment, sorry I couldn't help more.
Hey Eric just wanted to say thanks for the video, I just replaced the front rotors on my Blazer and without this video I would've had no idea whatsoever on how to do it but with your video I was able to get it done. This is my first car so I'm still learning, just once again thanks for all the great videos.
I have a 79 toyota with the type of bearing. I didn't know how much grease i needed to use. So i fill up the whole cavity with grease. Now i know. Thank you, Eric.
@wangbungal It may not say it but there are a lot of things missing from manuals that are a good idea and come from experience. If you use the fuel line on the vice grips or the tool that is made for crimping brake lines (there is one BTW) there should be no problem with the hose when your done.
@nizmojoeblows Yes, don't. Instead bleed it at the line, this will work just as well. DO NOT use a torch on a caliper ever as you will kill it and you never want to heat a liquid in an enclosed space, bad things happen. Good luck.
yo Eric i just finished installing my new wheel bearing thanks to you ....i was installing new ball joints and when it was finally time to tighten the last nut which was the spindle nut i tightened it real good and when i got home from work i noticed my dust cap came off the washer with tooth in it was bent n the bearing was destroyed behind it....ooops!.....haha then i found your video which helped me put my new one on.....i got an 01 sonoma just like the one in this vid!.....you rule dude stay funny your vids r great and have a good one!
Heh, I just replaced the rotors on an '06 2WD Ford Ranger today. Same basic setup except the slide pins are not exposed. Glad to see that my procedure did not differ too much from yours.
Very thorough as always Eric. A couple of things I've found is that a cheater bar works on the allen wrench if you're too chicken to use the hammer (like me). Another is using compressed air to clean or dry a roller bearing. It's important to not let the bearing spin when using the compressed air I've seen these things fly apart before. 20 rollers flying every which way can cause a lot of damage or injury.
Had a hard time remembering back to the last time I did a brake job like this and didn’t want to damage the inner race. I’ve been doing this independently for about 4 years now so I don’t often get shown tricks of the trade anymore, I’m left to come up with it on my own now. This technique for removing that inner bearing and seal is absolutely fucking brilliant. Makes me wish working in a shop with all the old geezers. Don’t miss the hours and pay though 😂 Thanks for doing what you do Eric! Keep on keeping on wrenching
@sheupel Sounds like you have a lot on your plate, I will do my best to help with the info but I don't think I'll be able to help with parts. Good luck in your endeavors, the world could use more people like you.
@EricTheCarGuy Thanks a ton, EricTheCarGuy. I am not that mechanically inclined or equipped to somehow secure the race, so I'll probably end up replacing the rotor. Probably best I do it now, and avoid any more costly repairs down the road. I am simply worried about it either scoring the spindle, or running too hot and seizing. Thanks for the quick response and I enjoy all your vids, even those not related to my car's set-up. They're very informative as well as entertaining.
Excellent video. Another way to manually pack grease into the tapered bearing is to put blob of grease into palm of hand and slap wide side of bearing into blob until grease gets pushed out the narrow end of the cage, rotate and repeat until bearing is fully loaded. Disposable gloves are good.
@wardubo I try to be thorough if nothing else, I figure if I've never done this I want to see every step so that I can do it myself, I wish I had these videos when I started out, would have saved a lot of mistakes. Thanks for your comment.
Hey Eric, awesome video! I work for a bearing company and the only thing I would add would be to get clean gloves when applying the grease on the bearings, as dirty gloves contaminate the new grease! Other than that everything was beyond exceptional
Wow your a real pro. Thanks for sharing your experience. Looks like my mechanic was telling me to use a C clamp. Not knowing it could damaged the master cylinder When changing break pads. Never would of thought it could damage the master cylinder. But it males sense And that the seals for break fluid only travels one way Thanks so much enjoyed your video I've subscribed
I understand if your doing it for a customer not to replace them if they do not want them replaced but I would highly recommend it to them. It only makes sense for no more than it costs.
I'm going to be doing this on a friend's Ford Ranger. I forgot to print the tightening procedure for the spindle nut at work so I'm just going to tighten it like you did. The torque specification was only a couple of inch pounds. I've never done these kind of brakes before. I've only done the kind where the rotor is sandwiched between the wheel and the hub assembly.
@shieldcracker Thanks for watching and subscribing I really appreciate it. I'm glad you like the video and that it was able to help, thanks for letting me know with this great comment.
@EricTheCarGuy No problem I have to admit the grease packers is actually pretty fascinating to me how that works and gets the grease through the whole bearing assembly.
Eric, your videos are terrific. I'm the mom of a disabled (adult) child with health probs of my own. In my spare time, I started watching you a while back on my phone, computer, or ROKU. Since then, you've saved me I don't know how much trouble and money. Your concise yet thorough explanations and good use of a camera are very appreciated!
Thank you Eric. I love these old videos.
Your videos have helped , and inspired me over the years. It has been pivotal in changing the course of my life for the better!
Wanted to say thanks for making this video. I have a 94 Lebaron Conv that needed new bearings and I couldn’t figure out for the life of me, how to remove them from the hub assembly. I rented a press, posted on a bunch of forums, etc and no one explained it like you did. I followed your tips and they came out with almost no problems at all.
Bro,Ten years later &still the best vid on TH-cam
This vid merited me becoming a subscriber. I recently got a 1973 Ford F250. After its OE died, it sat in the garage for 10 years while his kids fought over it. Finally, the mother had had enough. She called the local garage and told the guy that if he picked it up that day, he could have it for free. It's a beautiful truck, but after replacing all rubber/gaskets, it needed brakes. Mechanic told me 1300 for pads, rotors/drums--you changed that plan! I did the whole system for less than 500. THX!!
Just had to rebuild all my brakes last weekend. 94 dodge ram. Havent had to do bearings in years. You never really forget it though. Love the videos. Keep it up.
Thanks Eric you saved my life….That little trick of removing the bearings was critical. Love your insights 👍
Been watching for about 5 yrs. Doing my front brakes soon. You are the "Only one" of about 200 YT brake vids I've watched that explain which direction the grease seal goes. I have been known to not get it right. Great detail on this one.
Chevy GMC '99 Play in one front wheel. I ordered ACDelco Timken Berings S6 S7 inner bearings and inner seal and outer bearings. Did not use the 2 new races. Compared the brake pads positions on caliper pins on the other side to re-install right. Hand filled the new bearings. New cotter pin. per Ericthecarguy brake pads were near new. Put TireShine w/ polymer (rubber preserver) on the rubber hose (and any rubber bushings and weather stripping)
@ITS4390 I'll keep that in mind. Thanks for the comment.
@Buchoass Didn't mean to interrupt your work but thanks for taking the time out to watch. As for pricing it's my policy not to go over pricing sorry, too much liability.
I'm thinking most guys watching this video are trying to save some money , so why change a good bearing , a properly set bearing will last the life of the car just replace the grease as it gets contaminated m and worn out by use ..Eric does a great job in showing how most guys can do these jobs in their garage without too many specialty tools .
Industrial machinery running constantly can have bearings last 10 years with proper maintenance , compare that to your car .
@eurotrashcc Glad the video helped, thanks for the comment. This is actually one of my favorite videos.
@MrCarlosCruz1 No you can NOT use lithium grease for this, normally you use axle grease. Good luck and thanks for the comment.
@Harrrri82 Glad you liked it, thanks for the comment.
@chechnya That is EXACTLY why I do this. Thanks for the comment.
@shanemaura I'm happy to help, thanks for the comment.
This video is the only video I could find that properly showed me how to swap my rotors out on my 1970 El Camino. Great video.
@1Whatup8 Thank you for taking the time to leave such a great comment.
Both my 1997 Ford F-150 and 2008 Ford E-350 uses these tapered bearings. Never dealt with these type of bearings before but you're video saved me lots of time and prevented mistakes! Thx!
@sheupel No, that seal replacement is a bit more involved. On a GM you would need to remove the cover on the diff to remove the 'c' clips that hold the axles in. The closest thing that I have for that is the video I did on changing the bearings on a Jeep, I think that video is listed under "Removing Pressed On Bearings".
Seriously! Your trick to get the back bearing out was genius. Thank you.
@ddut887 Thank you for that great comment. Now that I think about it your right, I should have used a clean set of gloves, I'll keep that in mind next time thanks.
@fliphighup If I'm honest this is one of my favorite videos. Thanks for your comment.
I just watched the whole video as I do to most Eric the Car guy videos - I don’t even own a GM - but love learning something new! Such a wealth of info provided by Eric’s videos over the years ! We are very lucky.
@michaelovitch Thanks for the encouragement and the great comment.
@13FravelJ The only time a rotor needs to be addressed is if there is a brake pulsation or damage to the rotor itself, many manufacturers recommend just replacing pads when brakes are needed if the criteria mentioned above are met.
@EricTheCarGuy My first real car was an Olds 88 with that style of brakes and being a teenager, I had to learn to improvise. I like the way you adapt because not everyone has the "right" tools. Yet you still do your job in an even tempered, professional manner.
@wizkid01 Good point. The new rotors had new races installed so it wasn't necessary to install new ones. Use a bras drift and a hammer to get the old ones out and the new ones in if you ever have to do it. I still have the old rotors so I might do a short video on replacing the races. Thanks for the comment.
This video may be ancient but the information is exactly what I needed to put together the bearings on my Studebaker. And it's incredibly well edited for being a 12 year old YT video. Thanks for posting his.
@asshatpolice I agree about the cotter pins, I did mention that replacement was the best option but I agree with you 100%. Thanks for the comment and your input. Sorry I got there first, you know you could always make the video and post it as a response to this one, or I could post mine to yours.
@southernpride903 I agree that you first need to find out what's loose. Watch the video I did on Axle Ball Joint Replacement, at the end I show how to check for play in the front suspension, this works for just about every make. Good luck.
@shrimp909 Thanks for the comment and letting me know.
Great video. Saved me on my wife's 98 suburban at midnight on a workday. Keep it up, stay dirty.
Your are awersome! Been watching your channel for a long time. Your are helping me keep my 1996 chevy blazer going which now has over 341,000 miles on it! Thanks so much
I'm only new to this channel, I'm looking to start my trade soon as a Heavy Vehicle Mechanic in the army to pursue my interest in Auto mechanics. I'm already addicted to this channel! Loving it and will watch every video, Thank you Erik for teaching others! I think it's really great how easily you are making it to learn! Something I've always wanted to do. I wish I had the opportunity to have a Lecturer with your talent! Great channel hope you keep up the good work
Thanks for this. I started to do brakes and rotor on a relative's GMC van today and was surprised to see a setup like this. I wasnt confident to proceed, but now I know what to do. Thanks for all the details and advice..
@southernpride903 The lubrication of the slide pins and the brake pads helps a great deal to keep things quiet, the rest is up to the part. Perhaps you should recheck your work to make sure everything is correct just to be sure.
Thanks Eric! Great video, I really appreciate your sense of humor. Your genuine passion for your work shines through in this video. I also appreciated the "improper tool usage" story. I am imagining your instructor scolding you multiple times for shortcutting and using the wrong tool. I look forward to torquing the bearings on my new-to-me 94 dodge wagon.
Been scared to do bearings on my 91' S10 but this vid made it so easy! I wont hesitate to do it now! THANKS!!!
@axenz1 It does appear that way, your comment makes me smile, thanks.
You never fail to crack me up, man. Like every 20 seconds or so. You must be from my planet.
Just wanted to say thanks so much for the video. It was very informative and left me without any questions. I'm a new school car guy that is in love with his older GM. Felt stupid to ask this type of question on the forums.
Great video my man. You helped me to save $800 on two occasions now. Thanks for covering all the steps, (unlike the 100 other videos i've watched), in laymen's terms; as i was not so mechanically inclined in the whole fixing cars department. I've even been offering my family, assistance in my newfound expertise, all thanks to you. Best regards.
Amazing video Eric. I've gotten a 1975 mustang 2 and I'm going to replace the rotors and drums(drums look original, maybe rotors too) and I've never done these kind of bearing or rotors before and this video is perfect for a first timer. It looks like these old style bearings are actually a million times easier to replace than newer ones.
@RAJSTA81 I will and thanks for the great comment.
@southernpride903 The #1 complaint after a brake job is noise, the #1 cause in my experience is cheep replacement parts and poor installation procedures.
@fixinggrace Good call on the cheater bar. Funny thing, I had cut the scene where I said not to spin the bearing while cleaning it with compressed air for 2 reasons, first, I thought it sounded kind of "preachy", second I wanted to keep the video as close to 30 min as I could and that saved me 20 seconds. Great comment, thanks for watching.
@agnaeus You win! thanks for being the first comment and a nice comment at that.
@DieselCrawler86 Yep, I try to learn every chance I get. Glad you caught that because it was for you.
This brings back memories of my dad teaching me this at about 12 years old. I have an '89 Trans Am GTA that's mine and I'm doing the same exact thing on. Thanks for the video and bringing back fond memories of my dad teaching me how to work on cars!
Gotta thank you again Eric. This worked on my 1995 Buick Roadmaster. Did both sides with little complications and I'm rolling again!
@pej0s Anti-seize compound that I use to lubricate where the brake pad comes into contact to keep things moving freely.
@614gummybear That honestly sounds more like a problem with the CV joint and not the bearing. If you are making a right turn and hear the noise it's usually the left CV that is the problem.
@LiveToBike9 In some ways it is a simpler design however the newer style with an integral bearing assembly is cheeper to manufacturer and maintain.
@GDISinc I'm glad to help but I don't see your questions here, sorry.
@13FravelJ To be honest yes but it's purpose is just to keep the dust out, it really doesn't matter if it gets dented as long as it's sealed.
I read a procedure for preloading bearings in an owners manual long long ago (I'm 77). Use a torque wrench and tighten castle nut to 80 ft/lbs, the wheel won't turn, back off, turn the wheel, then retighten to 20 ft/lbs, wheel will rotate but it will be tight, loosen castle nut to next available cotter pin slot and install. It is important to rotate the wheel when doing this and note if there is any binding, this would indicate the bearing wasn't seated squarely most likely is cause by the outer race not being fully seated. In the end, the wheel should rotate without any drag with very little play in the bearing. At most you will go back to the second available slot for the castle nut. In any case I really don't like this combination of rotor and hub in one assembly, hubs can last the life of the vehicle, rotors have to be replaced after a couple of brake jobs. The one advantage is that it forces the mechanic to check and grease the wheel bearings.
What you're describing must have been for adjusting ball bearings, not tapered roller bearings. I don't know what kind of car your manual was for, but It seems a bit extreme even for ball bearings. I have the 1957 Chevrolet shop manual, when ball bearings were in use, and the torque is 33 ft/lb for them, then back off enough to insert the cotter pin. It never says to torque to 80 ft/lbs at any time. Tapered roller bearings started being used in Chevrolets around 1962. Roller bearing adjustment is totally different from ball bearings, and should not be adjusted like ball bearings or damage will occur to the bearing. When roller bearings are properly adjusted, they will have no pre-load on them, and will not even be finger tight.
Thanks EricTheCarGuy, this video, like many others of yours have greatly helped and educated me! Just did my inner and outer front wheel tapered roller bearings on my '99 Mitsubishi Canter. It was daunting at first, to do a job I've never done before, not a mechanic but i'm eager to learn and do jobs myself.
@trekzilladmc Just a piece of old vacuum line, I don't know the size it just fits over the bleeder valve is how I sized it up.
@nizmojoeblows I've done it lots of times when confronted with the same situation. The procedure is as follows: put a wrench on the brake line fitting on the caliper, have a buddy push down on the brake pedal, crack the line loose (put a pan under it) and when the fluid stops flowing close the fastener just like you would a bleeder, THEN have your buddy lift up off the pedal. Do it that way and you shouldn't get any air in the system.
I thought I would just stop back and thank you for posting this video. I used your video to help with my son's 2001 ford ranger (front wheels), and your advice is gold. The audio is great, video is really well lit, and composition is outstanding.
@mrNHC Thanks for the great comment.
Do you have to change the inner racer sleeves in new rotors to march the bearings your putting in ,
@RAJSTA81 I did just shoot a video of a timing belt replacement on a 99 Integra with a 1.8 DOHC but that won't work for you. I've gotten in the habit of recording every timing belt I do and should I come across the one you asked for I will let you know. Thanks for the comment, sorry I couldn't help more.
Hey Eric just wanted to say thanks for the video, I just replaced the front rotors on my Blazer and without this video I would've had no idea whatsoever on how to do it but with your video I was able to get it done. This is my first car so I'm still learning, just once again thanks for all the great videos.
I have a 79 toyota with the type of bearing. I didn't know how much grease i needed to use. So i fill up the whole cavity with grease. Now i know. Thank you, Eric.
@spelunkerd These are by far my favorite comments, thank you.
@Michiganborn1969 Not exactly, mostly just special sockets. It wouldn't be an ETCG video without me using some work around to make it happen though.
you just saved my life tonight! I've never done this kind of one piece and I have a 99 Sierra 2500 hd. beautiful stuff here sir! thanks!
@wangbungal It may not say it but there are a lot of things missing from manuals that are a good idea and come from experience. If you use the fuel line on the vice grips or the tool that is made for crimping brake lines (there is one BTW) there should be no problem with the hose when your done.
2k18 this is why i subscribed 5 years ago....keep it up eric and stay dirty
worked on these before, It was all new to me then. Now that I saw your video, makes me wanna go back and do'em again. Thanx.
@nizmojoeblows Yes, don't. Instead bleed it at the line, this will work just as well. DO NOT use a torch on a caliper ever as you will kill it and you never want to heat a liquid in an enclosed space, bad things happen. Good luck.
yo Eric i just finished installing my new wheel bearing thanks to you ....i was installing new ball joints and when it was finally time to tighten the last nut which was the spindle nut i tightened it real good and when i got home from work i noticed my dust cap came off the washer with tooth in it was bent n the bearing was destroyed behind it....ooops!.....haha then i found your video which helped me put my new one on.....i got an 01 sonoma just like the one in this vid!.....you rule dude stay funny your vids r great and have a good one!
Awesome video! Still helping people 11 years later!!
Heh, I just replaced the rotors on an '06 2WD Ford Ranger today. Same basic setup except the slide pins are not exposed. Glad to see that my procedure did not differ too much from yours.
Very thorough as always Eric. A couple of things I've found is that a cheater bar works on the allen wrench if you're too chicken to use the hammer (like me). Another is using compressed air to clean or dry a roller bearing. It's important to not let the bearing spin when using the compressed air I've seen these things fly apart before. 20 rollers flying every which way can cause a lot of damage or injury.
Had a hard time remembering back to the last time I did a brake job like this and didn’t want to damage the inner race. I’ve been doing this independently for about 4 years now so I don’t often get shown tricks of the trade anymore, I’m left to come up with it on my own now. This technique for removing that inner bearing and seal is absolutely fucking brilliant. Makes me wish working in a shop with all the old geezers. Don’t miss the hours and pay though 😂 Thanks for doing what you do Eric! Keep on keeping on wrenching
@sheupel Sounds like you have a lot on your plate, I will do my best to help with the info but I don't think I'll be able to help with parts. Good luck in your endeavors, the world could use more people like you.
@EricTheCarGuy Thanks a ton, EricTheCarGuy. I am not that mechanically inclined or equipped to somehow secure the race, so I'll probably end up replacing the rotor. Probably best I do it now, and avoid any more costly repairs down the road. I am simply worried about it either scoring the spindle, or running too hot and seizing. Thanks for the quick response and I enjoy all your vids, even those not related to my car's set-up. They're very informative as well as entertaining.
@Chris07860 This one is actually one of my favorites, thanks for your comment.
Excellent video. Another way to manually pack grease into the tapered bearing is to put blob of grease into palm of hand and slap wide side of bearing into blob until grease gets pushed out the narrow end of the cage, rotate and repeat until bearing is fully loaded. Disposable gloves are good.
Wow .....
10 years and you still been the same ... congratulations..!!!! Love your videos .!!
Went through about 5 videos just to find your cool trick to removing the inner tapered roller bearing. Thanks!!
I used this to do wheel bearings for the first time on a friend's truck. Saved my ass and some money! Great demo!
@13FravelJ Check the brakes but also check for rocks in the tire treads.
I have a question
@RDIzzle109 Yea, I've seen that a few times, that dust cap is suppose to be there for a reason.
@wardubo I try to be thorough if nothing else, I figure if I've never done this I want to see every step so that I can do it myself, I wish I had these videos when I started out, would have saved a lot of mistakes. Thanks for your comment.
@jungle191 If the bearings aren't damaged I think that would be a waste of money, they were designed to be serviceable after all.
@zxz1997 Me too, it sucks having to split them up.
Hey Eric, awesome video! I work for a bearing company and the only thing I would add would be to get clean gloves when applying the grease on the bearings, as dirty gloves contaminate the new grease! Other than that everything was beyond exceptional
@skipwadoo Me too, I like your comment. Thanks.
Wow your a real pro. Thanks for sharing your experience. Looks like my mechanic was telling me to use a C clamp. Not knowing it could damaged the master cylinder
When changing break pads.
Never would of thought it could damage the master cylinder. But it males sense And that the seals for break fluid only travels one way Thanks so much enjoyed your video I've subscribed
@Michiganborn1969 It's not so much the salt but in SW OH there is a lot of humidity all year long, it's kind of like living in an arm pit sometimes.
I understand if your doing it for a customer not to replace them if they do not want them replaced but I would highly recommend it to them. It only makes sense for no more than it costs.
I'm going to be doing this on a friend's Ford Ranger. I forgot to print the tightening procedure for the spindle nut at work so I'm just going to tighten it like you did. The torque specification was only a couple of inch pounds. I've never done these kind of brakes before. I've only done the kind where the rotor is sandwiched between the wheel and the hub assembly.
@FaithfulAnnO I really appreciate you took the time to post this great comment, it made my day.
@shieldcracker Thanks for watching and subscribing I really appreciate it. I'm glad you like the video and that it was able to help, thanks for letting me know with this great comment.
@EricTheCarGuy No problem I have to admit the grease packers is actually pretty fascinating to me how that works and gets the grease through the whole bearing assembly.