Gorgeous!! That looks fantastic. Now I know what I want and needed. Thank you so very much for taking the time to make this video. I appreciate you sir. P. Colorado
If you've got an area of your yard that can tolerate some flooding, this can allow for less stormwater runoff. A rain barrel with drain hose can slow the flow&give more time for absorption. Great video; love the corrugated drainpipe emojis!
It's a very small yard with a pretty pronounced slope. Water in the yard runs off to the street or alley pretty efficiently. I am considering adding a rain barrel though.
I'd love to see a follow up Dominic-style video after you do it... Complete with a very thorough review of the bespoke, palladium coated trenching shovel you found. IYKYK
This is very informative. How did the pop-up drainage attachment perform throughout winter? Was there any ice blockage? I'm not a plumber, but I'd have to imagine residual rainwater could remain in the pipe elbow for insufficient force to push upward after a storm.
I believe PVC is not UV resistant so eventually, I expect it to fall apart. At the minimum, I would paint it with exterior paint so give some protection.
You may be right. Strange that pieces intended for this use (downspout attachment) would be made from PVC, if UV degradation was a huge issue. Fortunately, most of it is underground. I also have PVC gutters and downspouts on other houses.
Thanks. It's probably hard to tell on camera, but the yard slopes quite well toward the alleyway. Excess water from the sprinklers drains onto the pavement, so I figure this will too.
@@Scott-xq2dm I am looking to do this myself later today. Could you let me know why you wouldn't do the pop up drain? This is where I feel a little lost. Not sure what to do at the end of the drain. I have a storm water area at the edge of the yard. I was going to run it all the way there with an open end. Any harm in that? Any advice here welcome
FYI - This is going to be SDR pipe. Sewer and Drain. When he says thinner walled PVC this is what he means. All the fittings are different than Schedule 40. You don't want to use Schedule 40 as all of that is "foam core" now and is more fragile. Ideally you want the green pipe, SDR 35.
Good question. There's a weep hole in the bottom of the elbow, underneath the pop up, that allows water to leech out of the pipe. I'm considering swapping that for a tee fitting to get the water out of the pipe more quickly.
@@jessesmithchannel How would the water come out when the cap is covered by ice and snow? Are you relying on it to leach? I know it doesnt rain in the winter but ive even had issue where the end of the downspout will slowly clog with ice and then water backed up and cause the downspout to swell with ice. We see temps down to -30 and it snows almost everyday for 6 months.
Question did you have pich a least 1/8 of an inch ? Just wondering I have the same problem I was just wondering if water is going to sit there al the time ?
I just put a downward slope on the pipe. With the momentum of the water coming off the downspout, it flows fine. Any residual water in the pipe drains out of the hole at the bottom of the pop up drain.
i wish the adapter (downspout to pvc adapter) could slide UP the downspout - as it is, it's easy to put it on the downspout from the underside, but i'm not sure it's a piece of cake to remove the downspout now - say you replace gutters, they need to pop the downspout UP onto the gutter and simultaneously down into the adapter -- i'm not sure what the solution is, here.
You can remove the piece that anchors the downspout to the wall. That allows you to shift the downspout on an angle and slip the adapter on the bottom. Then just return it to vertical, and anchor it back to the wall.
@@jessesmithchannel I dug 70 feet of ditch to lay in PVC to drain my gutters down to the storm drain. Halfway through and in the middle of fall when the clay was as hard as rock, I remembered I had a cheap chinese electric tiller. It made a perfectly flat 12 inch wide ditch for me to worth with to lay in the PVC. Only wished I had thought of it sooner.
Couldn't you just have done a nicer job just having the water dump on the driveway but closer to the garage? It looks like the driveway is sloped well. Anything would be better than the pop-up.
Gorgeous!! That looks fantastic. Now I know what I want and needed. Thank you so very much for taking the time to make this video. I appreciate you sir. P. Colorado
Happy it helped! Good luck on your project.
If you've got an area of your yard that can tolerate some flooding, this can allow for less stormwater runoff. A rain barrel with drain hose can slow the flow&give more time for absorption.
Great video; love the corrugated drainpipe emojis!
It's a very small yard with a pretty pronounced slope. Water in the yard runs off to the street or alley pretty efficiently. I am considering adding a rain barrel though.
Oh man! Perfect timing! I've been needing to do the exact same thing at my home. Thanks for putting this video out - super helpful.
I'd love to see a follow up Dominic-style video after you do it... Complete with a very thorough review of the bespoke, palladium coated trenching shovel you found. IYKYK
@@jessesmithchannel Hahaha deal.
Functional and looks great! I’m tackling this same project this weekend. Thanks for the motivation and ideas!!
Thanks man! Go get it done!
Nice video! Can you put a list of the materials you bought please?
This is very informative. How did the pop-up drainage attachment perform throughout winter? Was there any ice blockage? I'm not a plumber, but I'd have to imagine residual rainwater could remain in the pipe elbow for insufficient force to push upward after a storm.
No issues last winter. There is a weep hole at the bottom of the pop up fitting to allow excess water to drain into the soil.
How many feet is the pbc pipe.
What tool did you dig the sod with?
I believe the total run was about 12 feet. I used a flat shovel and an oscillating multi tool to remove the sod later. Took about 30min
Is water just going to sit in that pipe or did you put a hole in the bottom of the 90 where the popup attaches to let it trickle out?
The pop up piece has a weep hole at the bottom, so residual water can drain out.
I believe PVC is not UV resistant so eventually, I expect it to fall apart. At the minimum, I would paint it with exterior paint so give some protection.
You may be right. Strange that pieces intended for this use (downspout attachment) would be made from PVC, if UV degradation was a huge issue. Fortunately, most of it is underground.
I also have PVC gutters and downspouts on other houses.
Where was this installation located?
Back yard
What did you use at transition from the aluminum gutter to the Y pvc ? Never seen that connector.
Here ya go - amzn.to/3WPjx9U
Thanks buddy.
No problem 👍🏼
Great video, are you able to clean/remove the sand/gravel that will enter the drain coming off the shingles? I’m preparing to do a similar project.
Should be able to jet some water through the pipe and/or shop vac it out.
"Thin stuff": does this mean you used DWV pipe or Schedule 40 (pressureizable) pipe? Thanks for posting!
I didn't use Schedule 40 for the lateral pipe, but you certainly could.
Good job. I do have one question though. Why didn't you go ahead and dig the trench another 5 feet so the pop-up would be right near the road?
Thanks. It's probably hard to tell on camera, but the yard slopes quite well toward the alleyway. Excess water from the sprinklers drains onto the pavement, so I figure this will too.
I wouldn’t use a pop up drain
@@Scott-xq2dm I am looking to do this myself later today. Could you let me know why you wouldn't do the pop up drain? This is where I feel a little lost. Not sure what to do at the end of the drain.
I have a storm water area at the edge of the yard. I was going to run it all the way there with an open end. Any harm in that?
Any advice here welcome
FYI - This is going to be SDR pipe. Sewer and Drain. When he says thinner walled PVC this is what he means. All the fittings are different than Schedule 40. You don't want to use Schedule 40 as all of that is "foam core" now and is more fragile. Ideally you want the green pipe, SDR 35.
Yes. I got the SDR pipe from Lowe's, when they put a big lot of it on clearance.
The dig looks perfect, any tips on how to dig it so well?
Thanks! I used a trenching shovel.
amzn.to/49Y3uup
Will the pop up leave water in the pipe and could cause freezing? Thanks.
Good question. There's a weep hole in the bottom of the elbow, underneath the pop up, that allows water to leech out of the pipe. I'm considering swapping that for a tee fitting to get the water out of the pipe more quickly.
@@jessesmithchannel Maybe dig down and fill with gravel like you do for a hydrant.
@@Littrell1966 I've got gravel under the elbow to allow the water to drain 👍🏼
Drill a hole in the bottom of the elbow that holds the pop up so water doesn't sit there
@@donjones9949 This particular pop up came with a pre-drilled elbow for that exact purpose
I want to do something like this but live in upstate NY where we get buried with snow and below zero temps.
We got down to -15 degrees F last winter. You'll be ok doing it this way.
@@jessesmithchannel How would the water come out when the cap is covered by ice and snow? Are you relying on it to leach? I know it doesnt rain in the winter but ive even had issue where the end of the downspout will slowly clog with ice and then water backed up and cause the downspout to swell with ice. We see temps down to -30 and it snows almost everyday for 6 months.
Question did you have pich a least 1/8 of an inch ? Just wondering I have the same problem I was just wondering if water is going to sit there al the time ?
I just put a downward slope on the pipe. With the momentum of the water coming off the downspout, it flows fine. Any residual water in the pipe drains out of the hole at the bottom of the pop up drain.
Should be 1/4" slope per foot to keep any ponding in the pipe
i wish the adapter (downspout to pvc adapter) could slide UP the downspout - as it is, it's easy to put it on the downspout from the underside, but i'm not sure it's a piece of cake to remove the downspout now - say you replace gutters, they need to pop the downspout UP onto the gutter and simultaneously down into the adapter -- i'm not sure what the solution is, here.
You can remove the piece that anchors the downspout to the wall. That allows you to shift the downspout on an angle and slip the adapter on the bottom. Then just return it to vertical, and anchor it back to the wall.
"Easy" says the man with no clay in his soil.
Funny you should mention that! We live in an old river bottom, to anything past the first inch is thick clay soil. Digging was a bit labor intensive.
@@jessesmithchannel I dug 70 feet of ditch to lay in PVC to drain my gutters down to the storm drain.
Halfway through and in the middle of fall when the clay was as hard as rock, I remembered I had a cheap chinese electric tiller.
It made a perfectly flat 12 inch wide ditch for me to worth with to lay in the PVC. Only wished I had thought of it sooner.
@@ibealion1 Oh man! Got a link to that tiller, or something like it?
@@jessesmithchannelthey have an electric one for $140 at Menards. Can be two or one sides of tines.
Or cypress trees .
Couldn't you just have done a nicer job just having the water dump on the driveway but closer to the garage? It looks like the driveway is sloped well. Anything would be better than the pop-up.
It's been a year, and no issues with the pop up drain. I prefer not to have water dumping out on or near the driveway.
DON'T TRIP LOL
Noted!