Great easy to understand video! I did one if these a few months back like this and had a rectanglar downspout to 4 inch adapter connected to a y above the ground so a hose can be slid easily all the way to the popup.
Great video and perfect explanation. I’ve been looking everywhere on TH-cam for some tips on how to install, dig and where to put stone and I just want to say thank you!!! Time to get started.
Great video! Super simple to understand and even gives me more confidence to tackle my own project in the near future. Practical materials for a practical solution!
I did the same thing with one of my downspouts, except I built a dry well with 2 5 gallon buckets, mesh and angular stone under the pop up. Most of the water goes down and out into the ground. In a heavy rain, it comes up and out. I have the stainless steel gutter guards on my gutters and they (and the pipe) have stayed clean for the 3 years I've had them.
Thanks for making the video short and to the point. As someone who likes to DIY, I love learning new things and truly appreciate the different professionals and amateurs that take the time to make these videos. One thing I do find frustrating is there are so many videos that completely contradict another's video. All swearing by different products and methods. I may learn how, but may still not know if it's right or wrong. You know?! And that's any project, not just this type. I guess that could just mean that there isnt just one right and one wrong way to do most projects. Either way, thank you for doing this video. Much appreciated.
Thank you for the kind words, there are more than one way to handle situations. Some better than others but it all depends on the experiences people have had.
Outstaiding Video. It contained just the "how to" facts on how to install the drain. Did not try to be a comedian or try to be funny with a lot of silly stuff. I really enjoyed watching and I think that I learned enough to complete my project. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge . I saved this video in order to refer back to it when I do the project.
I’m prepping to do the same thing with sdr 35 pipe. It’s easy material to get for me. Thanks for making videos like this for us white sneaker wearing middle aged dads lol 👊
PVC Schedule 40 vs. PVC DWV pipe for underground gutter drain with 4-8" of gravel (flower beds) but no vehicle traffic (only foot)? Thanks for posting!
I like to put my cleanout at the downspout. basically put a Wye and connect it and put a strainer inside and they can stick their hand in to take out leaves
@@BradfordOutdoor great thx for confirming! I completed my downspout reroute yesterday with sch 40. One thing I ran into was in order to maintain my slope, the beginning of the run ended up started at ground level. So once i backfilled and put grass back it was higher. However since concrete patio will be poured it really doesn’t matter? Also any concern with slope getting messed up with concrete installed on top due to settling?
Great video, Thanks for making it easy to follow. Question though, if the water isn't enough to push out the end, will the water just stay fill the pipe until more water comes and pushes it out the top? Thx
Water will sit in the last 2-3ft of the system typically. The holes in the bottom of the pop-up elbow will facilitate the movement of the water into the local soil after a rain storm.
Thank you, we get quite a bit of rain. This system has preformed well so far after a few heavy rains. And that’s a great point I will remember for next time. Thanks!
Dude great video and appreciate the guidance. One quick question please: How deep did you start the trench where you put the adapter and sweeping 90 elbow? I'm guessing it was 4 inches or so...then you made the trench 6 inches deep after that? Appreciate any insight. Thanks!
Thank you. Honestly at the beginning of a run I will buy as much fall as possible by starting shallow. It really all depends on each situation. They are all different. But I aim to start at 4" minimum then move my way down depending on grade.
What part of the Low Country are you? We're up here in Columbia so a trencher definitely comes in handy. Do you charge by the foot or by the job? Nice work.
Very nice job. Will that PVC 6 inch to 4 inch reducer that is exposed to daylight will that last at least 10 years or will that get brittle and break within 5 years??? Would double wall corrugated pipe be better for locations that have 10 inches of frost.
Thank you! I think you will get discoloration with direct sunlight. This seems to be shaded well so it should have a very long lifespan for the customer. I would check out the french drain man on TH-cam for drainage in an area that has a freeze and thaw period.
Great video. I had a similar system installed but the landscaper didn’t drill a hole at the 90, so we have standing water in the pipe. I have to dig them up and drill a hole to let the water run out. My question, is the stone enough to keep debris out or would you recommend a sock or sleeve over the drilled hole?
Having geo textile fabric can’t hurt but generally isn’t necessary at the end of the line like this video. At that termination point, the water pressure and velocity will be pushing out any minimal shmutz that gets in that drain hole. It really depends on your soil. If you have clay (like I do), then yes - dig it up and create a dry well and line it then fill with gravel. If your soil drains, don’t bother - just remove the popup or grate at the discharge point and drill a hole easy peazy. If your lawn is normally dry within 48 hours after rain or irrigation, your soil drains.
Dig a trench a little longer than the sidewalk width to a depth that the top of the pipe will be below the bottom of the sidewalk and perpendicular to it. Put a hose in a pipe in the trench and turn the water on. Take a board and hold it on the end on the far side away from the sidewalk and start hammering the board to move the pipe under the sidewalk. Preferably, use a sledge hammer. Schedule 40 PVC will hold up to the hammering better, and support the sidewalk better. I've never done this, but I've seen it on the Stud Pack TH-cam channel when they needed to do something similar to run a sewer under a foundation and sidewalk. Ideally there is a way to get rid of the excess water, starting from the downhill side of the sidewalk gives a place for the water to go. The water will wash some of the dirt away, and soften the rest, which will wash away once it collapses inside the pipe. Search for their video "Tunneling Under a Concrete Footing for a Sewer Drain"
With the 5" gutter -> 4" adapter joint not being sealed, wouldn't you expect to potentially get splashing out of the drain system now ? I was thinking about how to avoid splashback onto the foundation.
Yeah, I observed this system during a heavy rain. The customer didn't want this but I wanted to extend the downspout out a bit and have a surface level drainage basin. They insisted on having it the way it was installed. There was very minimal splashing. Nothing that I could see contacting the wood. Thanks brother
I wonder how much pitch you would have left after installing a riser on the popup. I think that should be your final measurement. The hose test would be a good idea.
Planning my project. I’m draining a yard (not real big) and one gutter from the house, all into a 4 inch pipe. Will that same pop up on the end allow that amount of water to drain? Seems like (of course) you need to provide >= drainage for the water you’re collecting.
I'll be running a drain pipe for backyard water, parallel with my concrete driveway, about 1.5ft distance from the driveway. Occasionally someone in my household will "miss" the driveway and might roll a vehicle over the ground above the pipe. Because of that possibility, maybe I should spend more for stronger schedule 40 pipe, in order to avoid pipe collapse due to vehicle weight?
I would Google drainage pros in your area and hire a company specifically dedicated to drainage. These companies tend to get it right the first time considering the entire reputation of the company is at stake. Thanks!
How could that clean out possibly protect your system from roof gravel any where close to what a catch basin could do? Once the gravel gets past that clean out you're screwed and your system will get filled up then clogged up, no?
Well is seems you do not understand what the difference is between a clean-out and a catch basin. See a catch basin is both a "catch basin" and a clean-out where a clean-out is just an access point to clean-out the system. This still beats not having any access point what so ever which is what I see every day. This system will be easy to maintain. Open the cap, flush with a hose, take the pop-up off and clean it out. I'm not arguing a catch basin would have been better, but sometimes you need to work with a customers budget and this particular customer did not like the look of a catch basin. So this is what they got and no problems so far! Thanks bruh.
It seems that you ran the pipe at straight angle, doesn’t it have to be tiled at an angle towards the green cap, so that gravity does it job and take the water away
Ya that’s a different downspout as I only ever see the residential or commercial ones. I never glue all the pipe unless I am adding in a sump pump line but that’s me. Plus you want to buy the better popup emitter that is spring loaded and the 90 it comes with has a slit in it to let water drain out after there is no more head pressure. But good video all in all.
The pop-up emitter that has the slit in the elbow is a 3” elbow. I would like to allow more flow considering the 5” downspout. Also the spring loaded ones are nice. But tend to hold every piece of debris back IMO. I glue everything because the smallest leak can attract root development and ruin a system. Plumbers see it sometimes in sewage lines. Thanks for feedback brother
@@BradfordOutdoor oh wow they don’t have the 4 inch spring popup where you are? I get them from a place called “Site One”. Home Depot and Lowes don’t carry them. I think they have locations all over the US. Ya I always push the pipe tight together but don’t glue Incase people break them (fence installers and paver guys are notorious for this) but I like your channel man. Post tons of shorts to grow fast. They don’t count for watch time but they help the channel grow faster.
So the pop up admiter cap, it looks to me the whole pvc pipe would have to be full in order for the water to disperse from the cap.? Is this correct? If so, that’s a lot of water sitting in the pipe which can cause issues of all sorts.
Incorrect, the last maybe 3-4ft of the pipe fill max before water emits. This pipe has great fall, and the leach hole ensures it dries up in a few days or shorter after a rain. Works great so far.
I don't like pop up emitters. They should be the absolute last resource if there's no other way. Even with the stones under it, it will take a long time to drain. I don't see how any outfit could guarantee an installation with that end.
@@joeshmoe7789 nobody likes them, this system works great and will continue to do so along with the hundreds of other ones installed. I agree with it being a last resort, but if you can’t guarantee your work on a pop-up emitter I think it’s probably your application not the product. I see people misuse these things on 5-10ft runs all the time. As long as you have good fall and are building good water pressure you are set.
@@joeshmoe7789 Also, it dries up in a few days. No reason this couldn’t last years and years it maintained properly. Actually speaking from experience maintenance is the biggest failure in these systems.
@@joeshmoe7789 French Drain Man uses "T" fittings at end with pop up instead of elbow. The bottom of the T being open allows excess water to exit quicker
@@BradfordOutdoor looks like nice sand. Either way rocks suck. If you're planning to do residential retrofits invest in a small machine like a bobcat e10 or a yannar sv-08. We have the yanmar and we get calls specifically for the small footprint. And it saves the heck out of your back. Much success, keep up the great work.
Im in upstate NY where it snows almost everyday in the winter and gets down to around 30 below. Any experience with something like this in really cold environments?
Gad, can you catch short wave signal on that damn chunk of watch you got on your wrist? Looks like itd be like a swiss army knives of watches, tell your temp, heart rate, blood sugar, play tetris, xbox.. use it as an umbrella. Lol.
Not sure if this is poking fun or whatever, don’t really care. I love this watch it serves me well. I am an outdoorsy person and the GPS on this watch will ensure I am never stranded without a paddle! Thanks.
Soil separation fabric is only needed with perforated pipes, typically found on french drains where excess subsurface water is an issue. This system is correct - it’s taking surface sheet water and getting it away from the foundation.
That's illegal here where I live, all stormwater has to go through to soak wells and be connected to the city's stormwater system, I have three 36000 ltr soak wells buried in the front yard, which are connected to the city's stormwater system, 😊
I know it's only Storm Water but you guys don't have to use Gravel Beds over there?! Also that 6" Receiver would drive me nuts being off Centre to the Down Pipe!
Hey mike, thanks for the comment. I’m curious what you mean by gravel bed? Are you meaning underneath the entirety of the pipe? If so, there is no requirement but of course that would be the best option. I have had 0 issues with pvc systems without a gravel bed. Also nothing is off center as of now, and this is a great look for a 5” downspout. I have seen some abominations.. thanks!
I never understood why put a 90 facing up like that at the end of runs.. yea your sloping it down slightly for flow but the top of the 90 is where it will drain out and the top of that 90 is level with the bottom of the downspout so the pipe will stay filled with water the entire time and overflow easily on the foundation side because its not sealed to the downspouts…. Even if it was it would still fill up that pipe.. unless you used a french drain section for the last run of pipe as a leech field style drain.. and i can say from experience, when buried drains dont work right and hold water it makes the whole area smell like dead stuff all the time from all the rotting leaves and drain crap that buikds up inside over time…. Just doesnt seem right to put a 90 facing up there at the end of a shallow drain run.. unless the top of the 90 is well below the top of the end run at the gutter side…
I enjoy the feedback, but unfortunately you are just wrong here. The top of the 90 is about 3” below the entry of the downspout adapter. It drains phenomenally. I observed it on a hard rain and was pleased with the results. It actually did so well it caused a large erosion problem. I have since extended them at the request of the customer. There will inevitably be standing water in any downspout system configured this way. The pipe dries up in a couple days after the rain has ceased and this can differ based on soil composition. If you have nothing but clay it could take longer. But to answer in short the entire pipe is not filled with water after a rain, only maybe the last 3-4 feet are. Regardless any drainage system will need some maintenance, but this one will last a long time.
They do! Hopefully this landscaper takes caution and installs the new sod at the appropriate grade. In my experience they seldom get chopped up if they are installed correctly. Thanks for the response, means a lot!
Looks really questionable to me. The pipe will be always filled with water and it's clearly over the frost line. How many seasons it will survive with below-zero winters?
Well, the pipe will of course have some standing water but we do have about 3” of fall over 20ft. There is a hole drilled in the bottom of the elbow at the end to allow the water to dry up after the rain has ceased. This install was on the coast of SC. Our ground does not freeze. Up north this system would be ok… but I would provide further measures to ensure it dried quickly after a rain or extend it further to daylight.
Well, with the stainless steel gutter guards I am sure leaves will be few and far between. But when they do clog up inevitably The homeowner will need to use the clean-out installed and remove the pop up to flush out! Actually in this specific install the landscaper has agreed to maintain the system as part of the landscaping account! Thanks for the comment!
French Drain Man sells downspout leaf filters ...But homeowners should always consider gutter guards. But if they'res no trees it's no big deal. Also you could use a "T" fitting instead of elbow. The T would would allow any debris to settle on the open end of the T
The minute he say he shop at Ace I click thumb down and back. I can’t take anyone shop at a store smaller than my garage seriously. That’s like saying u shops at dollar general for your hardware
Goober, nothing wrong with mentioning ace since it’s a video targeted for DIY people. Stop acting like the trash you buy at Home Depot/Lowe’s is any better. LOL
![Dos & Don'ts - Downspout Drain in the North Where Winter is Winter [ Complete Guide ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_V1efJM-8yM/mqdefault.jpg)
Your video is outstanding!!
This customer is extremely lucky to have you doing this installation project!!
Thank you very much!
Great video. Right to the point.
Thank-You!
Great video.
Awesome showing. Much appreciated!!!
Thanks for watching!
Excellent explanation, thanks for sharing
Great easy to understand video! I did one if these a few months back like this and had a rectanglar downspout to 4 inch adapter connected to a y above the ground so a hose can be slid easily all the way to the popup.
Thank you so much hope it worked out!
Great video and perfect explanation. I’ve been looking everywhere on TH-cam for some tips on how to install, dig and where to put stone and I just want to say thank you!!! Time to get started.
Great to hear! You are welcome! good luck!
Nice job, I just started doing this project to my house. The gutters will be installed next Saturday and I have 4 20’ runs to do.
Awesome man hope it all works out well. Getting gutters on my home soon hopefully.
Great video! Super simple to understand and even gives me more confidence to tackle my own project in the near future. Practical materials for a practical solution!
Thank you so much for the kind words! Best of luck!
Thank you! I only wish I'd watched it before I was half way through my project but still, super helpful.
Thank you so much! Always happy to help more to come!
I did the same thing with one of my downspouts, except I built a dry well with 2 5 gallon buckets, mesh and angular stone under the pop up. Most of the water goes down and out into the ground. In a heavy rain, it comes up and out. I have the stainless steel gutter guards on my gutters and they (and the pipe) have stayed clean for the 3 years I've had them.
Great DIY idea. Thanks for the comment! More stone under the pop-up the better IMO
Excellent video! 🙏 Thank you
Glad you enjoyed it!
I was wondering how to do that. THANKS
Thanks for making the video short and to the point. As someone who likes to DIY, I love learning new things and truly appreciate the different professionals and amateurs that take the time to make these videos.
One thing I do find frustrating is there are so many videos that completely contradict another's video. All swearing by different products and methods. I may learn how, but may still not know if it's right or wrong. You know?! And that's any project, not just this type.
I guess that could just mean that there isnt just one right and one wrong way to do most projects.
Either way, thank you for doing this video. Much appreciated.
Thank you for the kind words, there are more than one way to handle situations. Some better than others but it all depends on the experiences people have had.
Cool drain
Thank you!
Outstaiding Video. It contained just the "how to" facts on how to install the drain. Did not try to be a comedian or try to be funny with a lot of silly stuff. I really enjoyed watching and I think that I learned enough to complete my project. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge
. I saved this video in order to refer back to it when I do the project.
Thank you so much, This makes me happy.
I’m prepping to do the same thing with sdr 35 pipe. It’s easy material to get for me. Thanks for making videos like this for us white sneaker wearing middle aged dads lol 👊
No problem 👍Thanks and good luck!
Really great video. Thank you. Not cattywampus at all.
Thank you!
Thank you
You're welcome
Admire your conscientiousness to detail👍
I appreciate that!
PVC Schedule 40 vs. PVC DWV pipe for underground gutter drain with 4-8" of gravel (flower beds) but no vehicle traffic (only foot)? Thanks for posting!
Great video, I will be taking on this project. One question, is there a rule of thumb as to how far out the run should be from the gutter? Thank you
I try for a minimum of 10f, But every situation is different.
Nice work! How much do you typically charge per downspout for this type of install?
Hey! anywhere from 450-1200 typically. We run a small outfit with 2 guys. It varies big time with drainage.
I like to put my cleanout at the downspout. basically put a Wye and connect it and put a strainer inside and they can stick their hand in to take out leaves
sweet, I like it.
Thx for showing this. I am gonna do this tomorrow. If I’m planning a concrete patio pour schedule 40 Dwv pipe is what I need right?
Yes absolutely always use a schedule 40 if going under surfaces with more then foot traffic!
@@BradfordOutdoor great thx for confirming! I completed my downspout reroute yesterday with sch 40.
One thing I ran into was in order to maintain my slope, the beginning of the run ended up started at ground level. So once i backfilled and put grass back it was higher.
However since concrete patio will be poured it really doesn’t matter?
Also any concern with slope getting messed up with concrete installed on top due to settling?
Great video, Thanks for making it easy to follow. Question though, if the water isn't enough to push out the end, will the water just stay fill the pipe until more water comes and pushes it out the top? Thx
Water will sit in the last 2-3ft of the system typically. The holes in the bottom of the pop-up elbow will facilitate the movement of the water into the local soil after a rain storm.
looks great. whats the rain like in that area? and only thing i would change is to have a wye instead of a t for the cleanout
Thank you, we get quite a bit of rain. This system has preformed well so far after a few heavy rains. And that’s a great point I will remember for next time. Thanks!
You must must have small amounts of rain as surely the closed pipe is going to fill in minutes
@@terence2379 no, as I said above we have a lot. System works great. Just got a big test, Thanks for commenting!
Dude great video and appreciate the guidance. One quick question please: How deep did you start the trench where you put the adapter and sweeping 90 elbow? I'm guessing it was 4 inches or so...then you made the trench 6 inches deep after that? Appreciate any insight. Thanks!
Thank you. Honestly at the beginning of a run I will buy as much fall as possible by starting shallow. It really all depends on each situation. They are all different. But I aim to start at 4" minimum then move my way down depending on grade.
What part of the Low Country are you? We're up here in Columbia so a trencher definitely comes in handy.
Do you charge by the foot or by the job?
Nice work.
We are close to Hilton Head. We typically charge by the foot on jobs like these.
Nice work. When the clean out is on a 90, can you get a hose around that bend? Or use a sweep instead?
Sweep preffered. Never had a problem with these though.
First time i heard "ACE" and "cheap" in the same sentence...
ACE and Rip-off go together too.
Very nice job. Will that PVC 6 inch to 4 inch reducer that is exposed to daylight will that last at least 10 years or will that get brittle and break within 5 years??? Would double wall corrugated pipe be better for locations that have 10 inches of frost.
Thank you! I think you will get discoloration with direct sunlight. This seems to be shaded well so it should have a very long lifespan for the customer. I would check out the french drain man on TH-cam for drainage in an area that has a freeze and thaw period.
👍👍👍
Great video. I had a similar system installed but the landscaper didn’t drill a hole at the 90, so we have standing water in the pipe. I have to dig them up and drill a hole to let the water run out. My question, is the stone enough to keep debris out or would you recommend a sock or sleeve over the drilled hole?
Gravel seems to be enough. But a nice drainage fabric wouldn't hurt.
Having geo textile fabric can’t hurt but generally isn’t necessary at the end of the line like this video. At that termination point, the water pressure and velocity will be pushing out any minimal shmutz that gets in that drain hole. It really depends on your soil. If you have clay (like I do), then yes - dig it up and create a dry well and line it then fill with gravel. If your soil drains, don’t bother - just remove the popup or grate at the discharge point and drill a hole easy peazy. If your lawn is normally dry within 48 hours after rain or irrigation, your soil drains.
👍
I’m drilling through concrete sidewalk. How do I install 90 beneath sidewalk?
Dig a trench a little longer than the sidewalk width to a depth that the top of the pipe will be below the bottom of the sidewalk and perpendicular to it. Put a hose in a pipe in the trench and turn the water on. Take a board and hold it on the end on the far side away from the sidewalk and start hammering the board to move the pipe under the sidewalk. Preferably, use a sledge hammer. Schedule 40 PVC will hold up to the hammering better, and support the sidewalk better. I've never done this, but I've seen it on the Stud Pack TH-cam channel when they needed to do something similar to run a sewer under a foundation and sidewalk. Ideally there is a way to get rid of the excess water, starting from the downhill side of the sidewalk gives a place for the water to go. The water will wash some of the dirt away, and soften the rest, which will wash away once it collapses inside the pipe. Search for their video "Tunneling Under a Concrete Footing for a Sewer Drain"
With the 5" gutter -> 4" adapter joint not being sealed, wouldn't you expect to potentially get splashing out of the drain system now ? I was thinking about how to avoid splashback onto the foundation.
Yeah, I observed this system during a heavy rain. The customer didn't want this but I wanted to extend the downspout out a bit and have a surface level drainage basin. They insisted on having it the way it was installed. There was very minimal splashing. Nothing that I could see contacting the wood. Thanks brother
for your clean outs you can use a wye pipe instead
Thats the better way to go. That way your clean-out method can go in seamlessly. thanks
I wonder how much pitch you would have left after installing a riser on the popup. I think that should be your final measurement. The hose test would be a good idea.
I hate pop-ups, but thats a good question. I usually just water test everything and see the action.
When can you do one w drain to curb.
Is this in a warm part of the US? Do you have freeze / thaw issues there?
Yes! South Carolina. No freeze here!
Planning my project. I’m draining a yard (not real big) and one gutter from the house, all into a 4 inch pipe. Will that same pop up on the end allow that amount of water to drain? Seems like (of course) you need to provide >= drainage for the water you’re collecting.
Best thing to do is daylight the pipe. forget the pop-up if possible.
Is that SDR 35 pipe? Great job and thanks
Yes, it is Thanks!
what schedule pipe you used? schedule 20 or 40?
SDR 35
So you have to do this on all downspouts?
We did on this home, all working great installed about 7 months ago!
what method you recommend to dispose the water from sump pump?
Hey! Thanks for the comment. I’m unsure what you are asking.. thanks!
Easy to dig in that "soil" lol. I'm going to use my tractor with a backhoe attachment lol.
Yeah I got one of those too
I'll be running a drain pipe for backyard water, parallel with my concrete driveway, about 1.5ft distance from the driveway. Occasionally someone in my household will "miss" the driveway and might roll a vehicle over the ground above the pipe. Because of that possibility, maybe I should spend more for stronger schedule 40 pipe, in order to avoid pipe collapse due to vehicle weight?
Oh yeah go schedule 40 for sure.
Thanks!
do you have to use 4" pipe or can you go with a smaller diameter if house is 1200sf? Thanks
I have seen 3” used at a minimum! This helps a lot with generating pressure over shorter runs. Wouldn’t do anymore that a single downspout on it!
I need this done at my house, where do I start my search?
I would Google drainage pros in your area and hire a company specifically dedicated to drainage. These companies tend to get it right the first time considering the entire reputation of the company is at stake. Thanks!
@@BradfordOutdoor Thank you for the reply, appreciate it!
How could that clean out possibly protect your system from roof gravel any where close to what a catch basin could do? Once the gravel gets past that clean out you're screwed and your system will get filled up then clogged up, no?
Well is seems you do not understand what the difference is between a clean-out and a catch basin. See a catch basin is both a "catch basin" and a clean-out where a clean-out is just an access point to clean-out the system. This still beats not having any access point what so ever which is what I see every day. This system will be easy to maintain. Open the cap, flush with a hose, take the pop-up off and clean it out. I'm not arguing a catch basin would have been better, but sometimes you need to work with a customers budget and this particular customer did not like the look of a catch basin. So this is what they got and no problems so far! Thanks bruh.
It seems that you ran the pipe at straight angle, doesn’t it have to be tiled at an angle towards the green cap, so that gravity does it job and take the water away
You have got to watch the whole video!
I like the video, thanks! Is there a PVC connector from a 3in x 4 in to the round pipe 4? Or how do I connect the rectangle to the circle?
There is! NDS makes a PVC adapter for your typical downspouts. They sell them at lowes but your local site one may have them.
Ya that’s a different downspout as I only ever see the residential or commercial ones. I never glue all the pipe unless I am adding in a sump pump line but that’s me. Plus you want to buy the better popup emitter that is spring loaded and the 90 it comes with has a slit in it to let water drain out after there is no more head pressure. But good video all in all.
The pop-up emitter that has the slit in the elbow is a 3” elbow. I would like to allow more flow considering the 5” downspout. Also the spring loaded ones are nice. But tend to hold every piece of debris back IMO. I glue everything because the smallest leak can attract root development and ruin a system. Plumbers see it sometimes in sewage lines. Thanks for feedback brother
@@BradfordOutdoor oh wow they don’t have the 4 inch spring popup where you are? I get them from a place called “Site One”. Home Depot and Lowes don’t carry them. I think they have locations all over the US. Ya I always push the pipe tight together but don’t glue Incase people break them (fence installers and paver guys are notorious for this) but I like your channel man. Post tons of shorts to grow fast. They don’t count for watch time but they help the channel grow faster.
So the pop up admiter cap, it looks to me the whole pvc pipe would have to be full in order for the water to disperse from the cap.? Is this correct? If so, that’s a lot of water sitting in the pipe which can cause issues of all sorts.
Incorrect, the last maybe 3-4ft of the pipe fill max before water emits. This pipe has great fall, and the leach hole ensures it dries up in a few days or shorter after a rain. Works great so far.
I don't like pop up emitters. They should be the absolute last resource if there's no other way. Even with the stones under it, it will take a long time to drain. I don't see how any outfit could guarantee an installation with that end.
@@joeshmoe7789 nobody likes them, this system works great and will continue to do so along with the hundreds of other ones installed. I agree with it being a last resort, but if you can’t guarantee your work on a pop-up emitter I think it’s probably your application not the product. I see people misuse these things on 5-10ft runs all the time. As long as you have good fall and are building good water pressure you are set.
@@joeshmoe7789 Also, it dries up in a few days. No reason this couldn’t last years and years it maintained properly. Actually speaking from experience maintenance is the biggest failure in these systems.
@@joeshmoe7789 French Drain Man uses "T" fittings at end with pop up instead of elbow. The bottom of the T being open allows excess water to exit quicker
What's the diff btwn schedule 40 and SND(?) fittings?
S & D = sewer and drain; it's thinner, so the connections are different even though the outer diameter may be the same as Schedule 40.
Schedule 40 is much more stronger and cost a lot more.Mostly used for commercial use
God bless you guys who dig by hand. You would never make it up here in rocky CT.
We can only get away with it on new construction! Thank the lord for no rocks down here.... just mud.
@@BradfordOutdoor looks like nice sand. Either way rocks suck. If you're planning to do residential retrofits invest in a small machine like a bobcat e10 or a yannar sv-08. We have the yanmar and we get calls specifically for the small footprint. And it saves the heck out of your back. Much success, keep up the great work.
Im in upstate NY where it snows almost everyday in the winter and gets down to around 30 below. Any experience with something like this in really cold environments?
You ever have any issues with shingle asphalt plugging up?
Not with regular maintenance
Nice video, BUT you need to do a few holes under the elbo for the pop up. Now the entire lime will be holding water
Got em, thought I mentioned this! Thanks
3 minutes in, that's exactly what he mentions
"A FULL BUBBLE" Does that mean off to the left?
Yeah I like to pin the bubble. cant go wrong with that.
What keeps leaves from getting stuck in pipe past the Clem out
Well nothing, That's why there is a clean out at the beginning of the run.
Gad, can you catch short wave signal on that damn chunk of watch you got on your wrist? Looks like itd be like a swiss army knives of watches, tell your temp, heart rate, blood sugar, play tetris, xbox.. use it as an umbrella. Lol.
Not sure if this is poking fun or whatever, don’t really care. I love this watch it serves me well. I am an outdoorsy person and the GPS on this watch will ensure I am never stranded without a paddle! Thanks.
How come you didn't use any fabric for around the rock and pipe?
Soil separation fabric is only needed with perforated pipes, typically found on french drains where excess subsurface water is an issue. This system is correct - it’s taking surface sheet water and getting it away from the foundation.
^
That's illegal here where I live, all stormwater has to go through to soak wells and be connected to the city's stormwater system, I have three 36000 ltr soak wells buried in the front yard, which are connected to the city's stormwater system, 😊
I wish we could Do that! Thats the opposite of the rules we have in place here... They dont want anything tied in!
I know it's only Storm Water but you guys don't have to use Gravel Beds over there?! Also that 6" Receiver would drive me nuts being off Centre to the Down Pipe!
Hey mike, thanks for the comment. I’m curious what you mean by gravel bed? Are you meaning underneath the entirety of the pipe? If so, there is no requirement but of course that would be the best option. I have had 0 issues with pvc systems without a gravel bed. Also nothing is off center as of now, and this is a great look for a 5” downspout. I have seen some abominations.. thanks!
Nice,how much did this project cost?
anywhere from 750-1500
I never understood why put a 90 facing up like that at the end of runs.. yea your sloping it down slightly for flow but the top of the 90 is where it will drain out and the top of that 90 is level with the bottom of the downspout so the pipe will stay filled with water the entire time and overflow easily on the foundation side because its not sealed to the downspouts…. Even if it was it would still fill up that pipe.. unless you used a french drain section for the last run of pipe as a leech field style drain.. and i can say from experience, when buried drains dont work right and hold water it makes the whole area smell like dead stuff all the time from all the rotting leaves and drain crap that buikds up inside over time…. Just doesnt seem right to put a 90 facing up there at the end of a shallow drain run.. unless the top of the 90 is well below the top of the end run at the gutter side…
I enjoy the feedback, but unfortunately you are just wrong here. The top of the 90 is about 3” below the entry of the downspout adapter. It drains phenomenally. I observed it on a hard rain and was pleased with the results. It actually did so well it caused a large erosion problem. I have since extended them at the request of the customer. There will inevitably be standing water in any downspout system configured this way. The pipe dries up in a couple days after the rain has ceased and this can differ based on soil composition. If you have nothing but clay it could take longer. But to answer in short the entire pipe is not filled with water after a rain, only maybe the last 3-4 feet are. Regardless any drainage system will need some maintenance, but this one will last a long time.
This response was also one very long sentence. It was hard to read.
No pressure involved. Why bother gluing it?
So it doesn’t get root intrusion or separate over years and years. I have seen that happen. Glue your pvc. It’s the right thing to do.
Pop-ups get sucked up and chopped off by a lawnmower, better to use a yard drain fitting and attach it with a couple of ss screws.
They do! Hopefully this landscaper takes caution and installs the new sod at the appropriate grade. In my experience they seldom get chopped up if they are installed correctly. Thanks for the response, means a lot!
The new pop ups are great… they are spring loaded and don’t get sucked up like the old ones. Those are the only pop ups I use
Looks really questionable to me. The pipe will be always filled with water and it's clearly over the frost line. How many seasons it will survive with below-zero winters?
Well, the pipe will of course have some standing water but we do have about 3” of fall over 20ft. There is a hole drilled in the bottom of the elbow at the end to allow the water to dry up after the rain has ceased. This install was on the coast of SC. Our ground does not freeze. Up north this system would be ok… but I would provide further measures to ensure it dried quickly after a rain or extend it further to daylight.
Our coldest day this last year was 21 degrees Fahrenheit.
Obviously not digging in north GA soil. 😁
Absolutely not! This is fresh fill on new construction.
leaves will clog this right up....needs to go to daylight
Well, with the stainless steel gutter guards I am sure leaves will be few and far between. But when they do clog up inevitably The homeowner will need to use the clean-out installed and remove the pop up to flush out! Actually in this specific install the landscaper has agreed to maintain the system as part of the landscaping account! Thanks for the comment!
How dare you. He's been doing this long enough 😆
French Drain Man sells downspout leaf filters ...But homeowners should always consider gutter guards. But if they'res no trees it's no big deal. Also you could use a "T" fitting instead of elbow. The T would would allow any debris to settle on the open end of the T
Thank you this video is perfect and very helpful. Love this
@@Arcanus31absolutely! PVC and the clean out take care of that problem.
Easy installation of a maintenance nightmare 😂
You have no idea what you are talking about. Thanks for the click and watch time!
Shieeeet anyone can dig baby soft sand =p lol
Haha, yeah you have got to love the new construction! Thanks for the comment homie
@@BradfordOutdoor heck yeah,! Keep up the great work
No no no not Katty wampus!
hehe
The minute he say he shop at Ace I click thumb down and back. I can’t take anyone shop at a store smaller than my garage seriously. That’s like saying u shops at dollar general for your hardware
Goober, nothing wrong with mentioning ace since it’s a video targeted for DIY people. Stop acting like the trash you buy at Home Depot/Lowe’s is any better. LOL