I have a 30' (4") schedule 40 run that I did in my back yard to the shallow trench along the trail that boarders my property. For the down-spout entry point I used a 4" cap that I cut a perfect (if I must say so myself) opening for the rectangular style down-spout. Even looks very professional according to the WAR (Wife's Acceptance Rating). Great Video!!!
Nice video. Something to consider if you're watching this before a DIY: Consider a soil barrier around the popup/gravel hole to stop soil from settling in and clogging the stones, and don't glue your popup on until after the SOD goes in. If you popup is below final grade, soil/grass will seal it up.
I installed a pop up on one of my gutters when I bought the house. There is only one tree on my 1/2 acre lot. There are trees across the street. That pop up plugged up with leaves within a year. Rather than clean it out every few months, I ran the gutter pipe to the ditch. Now all debris washes out of the pipe into the ditch in the heavier storms. I loath pop ups, but your install is clean and professional. I'll check out your other videos.
Thank you sir, as you stated daylighting the pipe is 100% the way to go as you did. I have a love hate relationship with pop-ups. It’s mostly hate😂😂 have a great one.
You can get a dead straight line with a piece of string between two sticks right on the ground, and spray over it with the turf spray paint sold at Home Depot. Did it this week and it works so much better than eyeballing.
thanks for great vid Dorsey. I put in a pop up last season with a 10ft run. works good to keep water away from the garage. Also, I'm in Chicago and the pop up I used the manufacturer recommend a sand bed under it but, It's good to see that rock works as well. keep the vids coming.
Great job 👍. I was wondering why where you have the clean out...Using a catch basin to catch shingle gravel...I plan on putting a catch basin pretty much where you have the clean out ...And a leaf debris filter on downspout...
The way this particular system is set up There is not catch basin which we know is optimal. I knew that when I installed this. Where people run into problems is when the system is set on flat grade. With this system we installed a clean out cap so that you can access the system with a hose, flush it all to the bottom of the system and clean it out there. I Would recommend a leaf filter from the French Drain Man. I have used them recently. They rock.
I am a structural engineer and I see lots of homes that are destroyed because they need a system like this. I normally spec schedule 40 PVC because it’s rated for ground burial. (The reason that is required for sewer lines.) I specify clean outs at all the 90° bends. I normally find those pop-ups completely clogged with stuff. I recommend discharging into a grate drain. One that is big enough that you can put a shovel into it to clean it out. I leave the bottom off the box and set it on a bed of gravel. If you’re interested, I’d be happy to share the schematic I give to contractors doing this work for me..
My present downspout dumps out onto my driveway, will be changing that to undergound pipe that will terminate over my lawn. Will be going with grate drain box as I think it will be more stable than a pop up drain, and better suited to handle the weight of a riding lawnmower going over it. Based on my lawn grade my pipe only needs to be about 20' long where it will then terminate at the drain box. Not sure about the need for schedule 40 pipe in my situation, and not sure if it's better to have holes in underside of pipe or no holes in underside of pipe. Holes in pipe would mean less water/water pressure at drain box, no holes in pipe would mean more water pressure forcing water out at drain box.
You make it look so easy woth that trenching shovel. Did this fir first time at my place, and trenching shovel was useless. I do t have hard dirt or stones but i had to use a pick axe to do it.
Thank you for the kind words. This property has clean fill dirt as there was a new addition built. It was easy to dig into. Usually it isn’t, best of luck on your future projects!
I think having an inline catch basin near the top of the drainage system would be an overall win. You could catch all the shingle gravel and use it as a clean out as well. Next time a do one of these systems that will probably be the configuration. Thanks!
What coupling/attachment do you guys recommend for a standard rectangular gutter spout? I really like this 4 inch round look but unfortunately, unfortunately I don’t have a round downspout.
I have 3 downspouts on each side of my home. I want to run PVC from the middle one to the back corner one and then drain them both to the back of the property with a pop-up. Will this be too much water for a 4" PVC pipe ? My run from the back corner to the back of the property is about 35-40 feet ... so how much grade do I need (in inches) from beginning to end ? Also, did I see you drill a hole in the bottom of the 90 at the pop up ? If so, what is that for ?
3 downspouts is the maximum my company will tie into one 4" pipe but that depends on the volume of water coming from the particular gutter. Cant go wrong with one pipe per gutter downspout but I would go with two 4" pipes to be safe. The hole in the bottom of the 90 gives the water left over in the drainage system a way to perc into the ground. giving you a dry system after a rain event and preventing roots from hunting it down.
I would really love to see this in action, as in, see how it flows when it rains. Also, why the pop up, why not lead it into gutter or road or something, have it flow freely and have it clean out naturally instead of having risk it filling up with debris?
This home backed up to a golf course and there is no road drainage infrastructure up front. I would agree and you are right running it to "daylight" is the best drainage solution. With proper maintenance and upkeep pop-ups work great. Both of the gutter downspout systems at this house work excellent through some large storms we have had. Sorry I didn't catch it on film.
Typically means you have good slope. Problem is past a full bubble there is no indicator on just how steep you are installing. I prefer to use a transit laser and put marks every 8ft on small projects and 16ft on larger ones. At 1" per every 8ft I can be sure I am at 1%
When you look at a typical level, there is a bubble that sits between two lines when the instrument is level. If you tilt the instrument, the bubble moves off center. If you tilt the instrument (the level) far enough, the bubble moves fully out of the space between the lines - hence, a "full bubble off"
Go check out French Drain Man on TH-cam for the northern installs. They are the experts on installing in freezing temps. We don't have that issue down here. Thanks!
@@DorseyCo remember, safety first. Work gloves must be on for digging, especially by hands, and sawing. Stupidity lessons are usually learned hard way. I love dyi. I do most of my house improvements and maintenance myself. But I'm also a guitar player. You wouldn't believe how many times I injured my fingers before I started wearing my work gloves. I couldn't play my guitar for weeks and even months one time. I hope it helps to get my ppe point. 🙂
So what I have heard and been taught is that a full bubble indicated a minimum of 2% grade which is about 2 inches every 8ft I believe. Can’t go wrong with a full bubble
Using pvc doesn’t make pipes freeze as all extra water that doesn’t Come out of emitter ?? Don’t see any perforation.. Asking as it gets really cold out here
I’ve watched both your gutter drain videos. It took me to the end of this one to realize that a “pop up” is what lets the water escape the pipe once it’s fool! 🤦♂️
With 2" of backfill and sod on top of that, you put that popup way too low in the ground. You must have came back and added a riser on it to bring it to grade.
@@DorseyCo never heard about the manufacture part before. Thanks though as I was just wondering as I know many do it differently. I do know if someone breaks it and ya gotta replace a section it’s a pain when it’s all glued. But good video man
@@DorseyCo ya man no doubt. I hear many different reasons from making sure it doesn’t leak to it may come apart in the ground.. so it’s always good to see and hear why others do what they do when we are all doing the same things
100% man I respect your feedback and love to learn and hear from other people in the business. Much love stay busy. If you ever have any questions feel free to reach out.
Problem with the pop up at the end is that pipe has to fill up alot before water actually starts coming out. On all the ends of my underground gutters I put a T fitting, and dig a big hole depending on the amount of water you think will be coming threw the pipe, then fill it with gravel. So there will never be any water inside that pipe. In your pipe it will create a perfect environment for things to grow.... so next time maybe throw a T fitting on the end of the pipe...
I have seen these before. They certainly fill up on an extended rain event. But your suggestion is a better way to handle the extra water left in the pipe. I checked on this system after a decent rain event it seemed to have the last 2-3' of pipe full of water. That is it. I guess its all situational, and based on what the customer wants to pay! Thanks boss.
Popups suk, water can't push dirt & debris up a 90°, it will fill with dirt, should have put a T with a pipe going down into the gravel instead of a 90.
Gate city foundation is probably the best with underground drainage systems using PVC, but this is a great DIY video for a homeowner who wants to do one downspout.
Nice video. Something to consider if you're watching this before a DIY: Consider a soil barrier around the popup/gravel hole to stop soil from settling in and clogging the stones, and don't glue your popup on until after the SOD goes in. If you popup is below final grade, soil/grass will seal it up.
I have a 30' (4") schedule 40 run that I did in my back yard to the shallow trench along the trail that boarders my property. For the down-spout entry point I used a 4" cap that I cut a perfect (if I must say so myself) opening for the rectangular style down-spout. Even looks very professional according to the WAR (Wife's Acceptance Rating). Great Video!!!
Thank you so much, drainage projects can be tough! Thank for sharing see you soon.
Nice video. Something to consider if you're watching this before a DIY: Consider a soil barrier around the popup/gravel hole to stop soil from settling in and clogging the stones, and don't glue your popup on until after the SOD goes in. If you popup is below final grade, soil/grass will seal it up.
I agree in the fabric, pop-up is fine they just need to put a riser on it
@@DorseyCo Risers can be snapped in between the elbow and the emitter?
Yeah just stick your riser piece in and use a 4” s&d coupling and pop-up goes right in.
I installed a pop up on one of my gutters when I bought the house. There is only one tree on my 1/2 acre lot. There are trees across the street. That pop up plugged up with leaves within a year. Rather than clean it out every few months, I ran the gutter pipe to the ditch. Now all debris washes out of the pipe into the ditch in the heavier storms.
I loath pop ups, but your install is clean and professional. I'll check out your other videos.
Thank you sir, as you stated daylighting the pipe is 100% the way to go as you did. I have a love hate relationship with pop-ups. It’s mostly hate😂😂 have a great one.
Most of my drains daylight but it’s not always possible. Popups take 30 seconds to clean out whenever you remember. And I never weld mine in.
You can get a dead straight line with a piece of string between two sticks right on the ground, and spray over it with the turf spray paint sold at Home Depot. Did it this week and it works so much better than eyeballing.
100% Setting up a string is the best way to do it. thanks
thanks for great vid Dorsey. I put in a pop up last season with a 10ft run. works good to keep water away from the garage. Also, I'm in Chicago and the pop up I used the manufacturer recommend a sand bed under it but, It's good to see that rock works as well. keep the vids coming.
Rock or sand is a must with a relief hole at the end of the run! Thank you for your comment and I will try!
@Lowcountrydraintech I didn't know this. I gotta go dig up the one I put in and put sand under it and a relief hole. Thanks!
Great job 👍. I was wondering why where you have the clean out...Using a catch basin to catch shingle gravel...I plan on putting a catch basin pretty much where you have the clean out ...And a leaf debris filter on downspout...
The way this particular system is set up There is not catch basin which we know is optimal. I knew that when I installed this. Where people run into problems is when the system is set on flat grade. With this system we installed a clean out cap so that you can access the system with a hose, flush it all to the bottom of the system and clean it out there. I Would recommend a leaf filter from the French Drain Man. I have used them recently. They rock.
Nice work. You limited your 90's. I like the selection of pipe. Beautiful work
Thank you for the kind words! Stay tuned I have some great ones on the way
I am a structural engineer and I see lots of homes that are destroyed because they need a system like this. I normally spec schedule 40 PVC because it’s rated for ground burial. (The reason that is required for sewer lines.) I specify clean outs at all the 90° bends. I normally find those pop-ups completely clogged with stuff. I recommend discharging into a grate drain. One that is big enough that you can put a shovel into it to clean it out. I leave the bottom off the box and set it on a bed of gravel. If you’re interested, I’d be happy to share the schematic I give to contractors doing this work for me..
What are your thoughts on running this with the permiter drain around a basement on new construction?
My present downspout dumps out onto my driveway, will be changing that to undergound pipe that will terminate over my lawn. Will be going with grate drain box as I think it will be more stable than a pop up drain, and better suited to handle the weight of a riding lawnmower going over it. Based on my lawn grade my pipe only needs to be about 20' long where it will then terminate at the drain box. Not sure about the need for schedule 40 pipe in my situation, and not sure if it's better to have holes in underside of pipe or no holes in underside of pipe. Holes in pipe would mean less water/water pressure at drain box, no holes in pipe would mean more water pressure forcing water out at drain box.
Also at the end where pop up is. You could put a Tee..Leave bottom open over gravel and grate on top
I'd love that schematic if possible.
I'd be interested in a schematic.
You make it look so easy woth that trenching shovel. Did this fir first time at my place, and trenching shovel was useless. I do t have hard dirt or stones but i had to use a pick axe to do it.
Thank you for the kind words. This property has clean fill dirt as there was a new addition built. It was easy to dig into. Usually it isn’t, best of luck on your future projects!
do you worry about shingle gravel clogging the end, would a catch basin be a good addition
I think having an inline catch basin near the top of the drainage system would be an overall win. You could catch all the shingle gravel and use it as a clean out as well. Next time a do one of these systems that will probably be the configuration. Thanks!
5:20 Pop up is not glued so clean out is not a problem.
For your tamper if you put a solid steel rod as the handle it helps with compacting soil. Heavy as hell but it works great.
Not a bad idea, if I ever break it that’s next . Thanks!
On my popups I drill a couple 1/4 holes in the bottom of the elbow so water can drain out into the gravel rather than standing in the pipe
For sure man did it to this system.
Getting ready to redo my yard from a 50 year old system. Can you just backfill with dirt? No gravel required?
not sure what you mean? thanks
Good video. Nice detail. Did I blink and miss the long pipes being glued together? Thanks for sharing.
Thank you so much for the kind words. This system was definitely glued I can’t remember if it was filmed or not! Thank you
What coupling/attachment do you guys recommend for a standard rectangular gutter spout? I really like this 4 inch round look but unfortunately, unfortunately I don’t have a round downspout.
Nicely done. Can I install this threaded Tee fitting against the building? Or does it have to be horizontal in the ground?
I recommend installing it as far up stream as possible.
Job well done!! You make it look easy 😅
Thank you so much, We try our best!
Thanks for the helpful video, and appreciate your easy going personality
My pleasure!
Is the pvc that you run have drilled holes in the bottom or is that not needed for these systems?
No this is a solid enclosed system.
Must not be summer time yet - your shirt is still dry.
How long did the drainage portion of the job take?
Nice work.
This project took around half a day! Got to be in decent shape to tackle this!
Beautiful work
Thank you very much!
I have 3 downspouts on each side of my home. I want to run PVC from the middle one to the back corner one and then drain them both to the back of the property with a pop-up. Will this be too much water for a 4" PVC pipe ? My run from the back corner to the back of the property is about 35-40 feet ... so how much grade do I need (in inches) from beginning to end ? Also, did I see you drill a hole in the bottom of the 90 at the pop up ? If so, what is that for ?
3 downspouts is the maximum my company will tie into one 4" pipe but that depends on the volume of water coming from the particular gutter. Cant go wrong with one pipe per gutter downspout but I would go with two 4" pipes to be safe. The hole in the bottom of the 90 gives the water left over in the drainage system a way to perc into the ground. giving you a dry system after a rain event and preventing roots from hunting it down.
The clean out could have been converted to a catch basin, they are a must have with or without gutter guards, corrugated or pvc.
good video!
Facts and true, thanks!
I would like to see the type of gutter that is attached to the house 5:31
round 5"
Did you use a connector between each length of pipe instead of fusing them with pvc glue?
Yep PVC glue!
Nice job and commentary. Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Nice job,how much did this project cost?
Around $1800 for both downspouts in PVC
I would really love to see this in action, as in, see how it flows when it rains. Also, why the pop up, why not lead it into gutter or road or something, have it flow freely and have it clean out naturally instead of having risk it filling up with debris?
This home backed up to a golf course and there is no road drainage infrastructure up front. I would agree and you are right running it to "daylight" is the best drainage solution. With proper maintenance and upkeep pop-ups work great. Both of the gutter downspout systems at this house work excellent through some large storms we have had. Sorry I didn't catch it on film.
1st time i have seen a pop up system.
For leveling what does a full bubble mean?
Typically means you have good slope. Problem is past a full bubble there is no indicator on just how steep you are installing. I prefer to use a transit laser and put marks every 8ft on small projects and 16ft on larger ones. At 1" per every 8ft I can be sure I am at 1%
When you look at a typical level, there is a bubble that sits between two lines when the instrument is level. If you tilt the instrument, the bubble moves off center. If you tilt the instrument (the level) far enough, the bubble moves fully out of the space between the lines - hence, a "full bubble off"
How deep does the pipe need to be to prevent freezing and cracking? Im in canada , gets to -15 easy
Go check out French Drain Man on TH-cam for the northern installs. They are the experts on installing in freezing temps. We don't have that issue down here. Thanks!
It's what 4' but in reality when it's that cold your downspouts freeze up so no water will flow anyway.
@@stoneyswolf But then the water on the roof is melting and hitting cold soil. It will build up ice in the downspout.
how deep do you dig for the pipe to sit into the ground?
Depends... usually 6" minimum from the surface but we go as deep as 3-4ft at times.
Great video, thank you! One issue though. Where is your PPE? I guess it's a "live free or die" thing. 😁
I usually where sunglasses. What other PPE do you suggest? haha maybe nitrite gloves if you are messy.
@@DorseyCo remember, safety first. Work gloves must be on for digging, especially by hands, and sawing. Stupidity lessons are usually learned hard way.
I love dyi. I do most of my house improvements and maintenance myself. But I'm also a guitar player. You wouldn't believe how many times I injured my fingers before I started wearing my work gloves. I couldn't play my guitar for weeks and even months one time. I hope it helps to get my ppe point. 🙂
When use a 6ft level with full bubble, what fall is it that you're measuring? 1:100 fall?
So what I have heard and been taught is that a full bubble indicated a minimum of 2% grade which is about 2 inches every 8ft I believe. Can’t go wrong with a full bubble
Great video!
You don't have to deal with a frost line, do you?
Absolutely not!
I love ❤❤❤❤❤ it. So so so much 😻💞😻💞😻💞😻💞
Thanks!
Would this work in the North? Under extreme cold conditions
I would look at the French Drain man on youtube for expertise on northern residential drainage installs.
Using pvc doesn’t make pipes freeze as all extra water that doesn’t Come out of emitter ?? Don’t see any perforation.. Asking as it gets really cold out here
Check with your local codes to see the minimum depth to install drainage systems, That should help.
It's okay to put a 3 inch pipe is for small house?
Yes you can 3” it ok for one medium size downspout in my opinion.
How did you connect the green pipe to the schedule 40?
PVC glue
Good job, but why not add a drywall with pop up at the end for better drainage
Wait you mean drywell? Comes down to cost to customer. This works well for the budget provided!
How do you install them if you have a little negative slope?
Bury them deeper until you pass that negative slope. Or do not do it at all.
How deep does this pipe need to be?
Depends on the situation. down south we will go a minimum of 6-8". Obviously we do not have a freeze/thaw.
Nice work!
Thank you so much. This means a lot!
nice work bro
thanks very helpful
You're welcome!
How deep do did you dig for the 4inch pipe.
6 Inches to 4ft it all depends That is what make sit interesting!
Nice job!!
Thank you! Cheers!
really streight, howja do it ?
Set up some string lines with the elbows where the lines take different courses. Or lay out the pipe like I did, either works great! Thanks
I’ve watched both your gutter drain videos. It took me to the end of this one to realize that a “pop up” is what lets the water escape the pipe once it’s fool! 🤦♂️
Thanks
How much would this cost?
$1800.00
@@skynetlabs I assume that includes material? How many linear feet of conduit? I think you said you are doing two drains pipes there? Thanks
With 2" of backfill and sod on top of that, you put that popup way too low in the ground. You must have came back and added a riser on it to bring it to grade.
For sure brother, landscaper handled that! Working great to this day. Risers have been installed. Thanks for the comment
Nice 👍
Thanks ✌
I ask everyone this question… why do you glue the pipe together? I only glue when I’m using a sump pump tied into it.
Because that’s how it is meant to be installed from the manufacturer. Not using glue is a short cut IMO. And unacceptable
@@DorseyCo never heard about the manufacture part before. Thanks though as I was just wondering as I know many do it differently. I do know if someone breaks it and ya gotta replace a section it’s a pain when it’s all glued. But good video man
Thanks brother, and just sharing my perspective on the issue, thanks for the feedback!
@@DorseyCo ya man no doubt. I hear many different reasons from making sure it doesn’t leak to it may come apart in the ground.. so it’s always good to see and hear why others do what they do when we are all doing the same things
100% man I respect your feedback and love to learn and hear from other people in the business. Much love stay busy. If you ever have any questions feel free to reach out.
Thank you
You're welcome
How well is it going to work in a heavy thunderstorm. Probably poorly.
Nah man it trucks great, thanks
Price per ft?
depends. usually 18-30 depending on soil composition.
u got Kevin's Costner voice :)
Thanks!
👌👌👌
It's not too tough ya just have to have enough grade.
Thats the truth. Soil comp has a lot to do with it too.
Problem with the pop up at the end is that pipe has to fill up alot before water actually starts coming out. On all the ends of my underground gutters I put a T fitting, and dig a big hole depending on the amount of water you think will be coming threw the pipe, then fill it with gravel. So there will never be any water inside that pipe. In your pipe it will create a perfect environment for things to grow.... so next time maybe throw a T fitting on the end of the pipe...
I have seen these before. They certainly fill up on an extended rain event. But your suggestion is a better way to handle the extra water left in the pipe. I checked on this system after a decent rain event it seemed to have the last 2-3' of pipe full of water. That is it. I guess its all situational, and based on what the customer wants to pay! Thanks boss.
@@DorseyCo Just drill a hole in the bottom of the pipe at the end, Boss. That should suite even the cheapest customer.
The dude doing the voiceover sounds like he could be doing 100 other things that actually interest him.
This made me laugh
Popups suk, water can't push dirt & debris up a 90°, it will fill with dirt, should have put a T with a pipe going down into the gravel instead of a 90.
Wrong about that, it’s your installation. Sorry bubba. Only reason they fail is turf growing over them and flat pipe.
French drain man is the only person you should be watching folks
lol, get a life bro
Gate city foundation is probably the best with underground drainage systems using PVC, but this is a great DIY video for a homeowner who wants to do one downspout.
Nice video. Something to consider if you're watching this before a DIY: Consider a soil barrier around the popup/gravel hole to stop soil from settling in and clogging the stones, and don't glue your popup on until after the SOD goes in. If you popup is below final grade, soil/grass will seal it up.
Thank you brother!
Nice job and commentary. Thanks.
Much appreciated!