Inherited a Myford A2 (ML4?) recently and could not work out what the backgear assembly was all about. Appreciate the explanation as it firmly knocks out one of the bigger questions I have about this lathe. Thank you.
What Steve shows is important for any back geared lathe. All the driving torque is being directed through the small gear latching segment he showed or through a push/pull pin in the large bull gear. This is the reason you want to avoid engaging the back gears with the bull gear still latched to the drive as a way to get the chuck unscrewed on machines with a screw on chuck. If the chuck is tightly stuck on the spindle and you lock the mechanism up as described you risk breaking the latching mechanism or worse still, breaking a tooth in the back gear. Many bench lathes have helical cut back gears and if you damage them your lathe is just about ruined if you can't find spare parts. Cheers from NC/USA
Hi Steve, I bought an ML7 last Thursday and am literally just starting out. Thanks for your invaluable series of videos. I have learned so, so much in such a short period of time. I really appreciate your efforts.
Gday Steve, happy new year mate, this is the first time I’ve seen how the back gear works on a Myford, it’s a very simple interesting design, cheers Matty
Good explination to understand how the backgear will work. In engaged position the spindel will fixed and in disengaged position the spindel will run with very low rounds
I think that little dog is by far the least favourite feature of my ML7. That alone makes me lust after a Super 7, which improves this mechanism. Getting the hex key engaged into the screw blind is a pain, and I find that the screw must be backed out almost an entire turn to allow the dog to be moved reliably to either its fully in or fully out position, which requires engaging the hex key several times. Perhaps there is some way I can modify the end of the hex key to make it easier to insert. Giving it a round pilot tip which can enter the screw head socket at any orientation would help, by avoiding the need to have the key at both the correct location and the correct orientation at the same time. But such a pilot tip can't be very long because the depth of the socket is limited.
Well explained but I think I’d remove the Allen head and replace it with a bolt with a double thickness head, it would be easier to get a spanner on and keep the locking key engaged while tightening,
Excellent series of mods and ideas,I'm getting loads of inspiration and ideas from your videos and work.I am just a self taught amateur machinist with a lifetimes experience as a mechanic.I own an early ml 7,1949 approx,can I ask how did you mark hole positions on chuck backplate for dividing work?
Hi Dean thanks. I bought the first backplate off eBay and then used that with the toolpost drill set up to do the holes in all my other backplates. I think they still sell the indexing backplates on eBay if you look them up. Regards Steve
Steve, I think your videos are amazing and they have helped me no end. Could you please tell me where I can obtain a NUMBERED indexing back plate from? Geoff
Nice excellent little video. I'm sad that I only have a 2nd hand Chinese lathe a Sieg M6 125 mm centerhight * 550 mm (10" swing over bed * 22"). On the other hand it probably wouldn't go in to my basement or workshop, if it were any bigger. The M in M6 indicates a mill. Inspired by you I have upgrade from a single phase to three phase motor. Thereby increasing power from 750 W to 2.2 kW and variable speed via frequency converter.
The Myford ML7 is only a small lathe. I have a Chinese Mini Lathe 7x14 as well. That has a larger sizes spindle bore than the Myford but a shorter bed.
I have my Myford rigged up to a single phase to three phase VFD and motor. The digital readout is one of those Chinese tachometers. I have done videos on all these on TH-cam. The wiring for the tachometers is on my TH-cam community page. Regards Steve.
I was searching for the installation of the tachometer on the ML7, I knew you did it but I can't find it back. Please tell me where I can find it. Kind regards, Ivo
First time for me seeing how this little nugget works. Surely it would be easier to replace the socket head with a hex head so you could get a ring spanner on rather than faff on with a Allen key.
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thanks for the thorough explanation."a picture paints a thousand words"
Hi Paul. Thanks for watching and for your encouraging feedback. Regards Steve
Inherited a Myford A2 (ML4?) recently and could not work out what the backgear assembly was all about. Appreciate the explanation as it firmly knocks out one of the bigger questions I have about this lathe. Thank you.
What Steve shows is important for any back geared lathe. All the driving torque is being directed through the small gear latching segment he showed or through a push/pull pin in the large bull gear. This is the reason you want to avoid engaging the back gears with the bull gear still latched to the drive as a way to get the chuck unscrewed on machines with a screw on chuck. If the chuck is tightly stuck on the spindle and you lock the mechanism up as described you risk breaking the latching mechanism or worse still, breaking a tooth in the back gear. Many bench lathes have helical cut back gears and if you damage them your lathe is just about ruined if you can't find spare parts.
Cheers from NC/USA
Hi Steve, I bought an ML7 last Thursday and am literally just starting out.
Thanks for your invaluable series of videos. I have learned so, so much in such a short period of time. I really appreciate your efforts.
Hi Thanks. I'm really pleased you like the videos. Thanks for watching. The Myford lathes are great machines. Regards Steve.
Gday Steve, happy new year mate, this is the first time I’ve seen how the back gear works on a Myford, it’s a very simple interesting design, cheers Matty
Good explination to understand how the backgear will work. In engaged position the spindel will fixed and in disengaged position the spindel will run with very low rounds
Hello Steve,
Nicely explained... Thank you...
Take care
Paul,,
I think that little dog is by far the least favourite feature of my ML7. That alone makes me lust after a Super 7, which improves this mechanism. Getting the hex key engaged into the screw blind is a pain, and I find that the screw must be backed out almost an entire turn to allow the dog to be moved reliably to either its fully in or fully out position, which requires engaging the hex key several times.
Perhaps there is some way I can modify the end of the hex key to make it easier to insert. Giving it a round pilot tip which can enter the screw head socket at any orientation would help, by avoiding the need to have the key at both the correct location and the correct orientation at the same time. But such a pilot tip can't be very long because the depth of the socket is limited.
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Well explained but I think I’d remove the Allen head and replace it with a bolt with a double thickness head, it would be easier to get a spanner on and keep the locking key engaged while tightening,
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Hi Steve. like your videos. makes me happy I have an ML7R
Excellent series of mods and ideas,I'm getting loads of inspiration and ideas from your videos and work.I am just a self taught amateur machinist with a lifetimes experience as a mechanic.I own an early ml 7,1949 approx,can I ask how did you mark hole positions on chuck backplate for dividing work?
Hi Dean thanks. I bought the first backplate off eBay and then used that with the toolpost drill set up to do the holes in all my other backplates. I think they still sell the indexing backplates on eBay if you look them up. Regards Steve
Steve, I think your videos are amazing and they have helped me no end. Could you please tell me where I can obtain a NUMBERED indexing back plate from? Geoff
Nice excellent little video. I'm sad that I only have a 2nd hand Chinese lathe a Sieg M6 125 mm centerhight * 550 mm (10" swing over bed * 22"). On the other hand it probably wouldn't go in to my basement or workshop, if it were any bigger. The M in M6 indicates a mill.
Inspired by you I have upgrade from a single phase to three phase motor. Thereby increasing power from 750 W to 2.2 kW and variable speed via frequency converter.
The Myford ML7 is only a small lathe. I have a Chinese Mini Lathe 7x14 as well. That has a larger sizes spindle bore than the Myford but a shorter bed.
Can you anymore information on the RPM attachment please. a where i can perches one please
Great video as I had no idea how to do this.
Excellent !
Steve excellent video and thanks for adding it following my question. What’s the digital speed readout called and you seem to control it remotely?
I have my Myford rigged up to a single phase to three phase VFD and motor. The digital readout is one of those Chinese tachometers. I have done videos on all these on TH-cam. The wiring for the tachometers is on my TH-cam community page. Regards Steve.
@@SteveJordan Great thank you I will take a look.
Sweet little lathe Steve, interesting change over assembly. Enjoyed, cheers!
I was searching for the installation of the tachometer on the ML7, I knew you did it but I can't find it back. Please tell me where I can find it.
Kind regards,
Ivo
th-cam.com/video/Y4WKVvz8JxU/w-d-xo.html
Hi what solder & silver solder do u use or recommend for silver soldering many thanks mark
Hi Mark, I usually use Johnson Matthey Silver Flo 55 or something similar. Regards Steve
First time for me seeing how this little nugget works. Surely it would be easier to replace the socket head with a hex head so you could get a ring spanner on rather than faff on with a Allen key.
The ring on the spanner would prevent the tooth assembly from locating fully. Regards Steve
WE KNOW ????????? 😅😅😅
WE ALL KNOW 😅😅😅
Don't BOTHER ?? WE KNOW ALREADY 😅😅😅
Some people actually think a Myford is a good lathe 😅Over priced pile of junk in my book.
What banda is that?