Download your copy of this episode to view anytime and anywhere. We now have Downloads of each episode and the entire series available through our website for a VERY small price! Why pay for a download? Not only does this help ensure you will always have access to this video but it also supports our video team with proceeds for video equipment maintenance and new production gear to help us create additional 2 Valve focused videos. Find the Digital Downloads and Parts Used in this video here: www.boxer2valve.com/r906-10-timing-cover-replace-timing-chain.html
I’m writing this a few years after you published the video but I’d like to thank you for doing so and showing the procedure so clearly and helpfully. It’s much appreciated by this London England BMW owner.
Hi, thanks for making this video of changing a double-row timing chain. QUESTION: Could you install the master link with the two small cir-clips on the front side of the chain instead of the back? Is there a reason why the clips need to be behind the chain? Thanks again.
Hey man, great production quality! Also, thank you for these videos! There are NO OTHER VIDEOS on youtube that walk you though a timing chain replacement on these old /567's or any other in complex work for that matter. Keep up the good work, and keep being awesome!
Guys, to say that I'm inspired by your amazing tutorials is an understatement. Other than a pleasure to watch, you guys are educational beyond belief. Thank you so much for steering me on the right path. I'll be shopping from you guys soon for my R45 bits and bobs. Keep up the good work fella's. Many thanks again👍
Agree with previous comment on chain clips. From my limited experience, I did not find that install so easy as you make it look. Maybe give us some additional tips/ tricks? But still overall a rocking video! You guys are getting quite a buzz on the BMW Internet forums. I own 4 Airheads and will certainly buy whatever I need that you can supply going forward. You are saving us amateurs tons of grief. Thank you!
Hi Frank, The key in my estimation is finding the right tool. Not all screwdrivers are made of the same material. You need to find one that is ferromagnetic. Rub the tip on a strong magnet, back and forth a few times then test the effectiveness on a washer or something like that. You might find that some screwdrivers are barely effected by this and then not suitable. Identify a small screwdriver that can be effectively magnetized and then you will have good control over the clip and it should push on rather easily. You'll notice that I have my glasses (reading not safety) on for this task. With these things in place, it's very possible. I hope that this helps! WP
How many miles were on this bike when you found it ? Just wondering because I bought a 1974 R90/6 from my Uncle with 35K on it. Thank you so much for what I consider the best made video's on TH-cam !
Love the videos. they arevery well produced and each one a pleasure to absorb. I have a '74 r90S so a lot of similarities with your project. I saw where you pushed against the crankshaft (indirectly). When I took off my front cover this winter ('18), There was oil that had accumlated in the points area (it's been converted to a Boyer system). I think I've source it to the crankshaft seal. Seems there was a tear on the side of it when it was installed, from a previous timing chain replacement job. I removed it and wanted to gear up a big washer to bear on the new seal and use a long bolt and pipe + washer affair to 'push' the new seal in place. I decided against it because I didn't want to risk 'moving' the cranshaft as advised when replacing the rear main seal. The rear main seal was replaced earlier this winter BTW, with sucess. I ended up setting the crankshaft seal in place with the said large washer and a 3" pipe straddling the nose of the crank and hammering until being flush. My question is: could I have used the threaded crank nose to pull on to set the seal in place? Sorry for the long winded post, Amédée in Halifax Nova Scotia.
Don't forget to disconnect the battery before removing the outside cover, to avoid short-circuit in diode circuit located on the top of the timing cover.
Thanks. I am going to make one up. I have to take the front cover off my R80 to investigate a tapping noise. Previous owner put a new chain on only 8000 km ago but there is a tapping noise coming from the cover I will have to go in to sort it out.
Some are talking about the "E" clips on the master link.....sometimes difficult to install.....I grease the clip so it won't fly "as far" away if lost......then place it on the side of a flat screwdriver pushing it home with a second flat screwdriver ....I do it a little higher on the engine and plug all the holes into the engine with a rag first...! Yes the battery is disconnected of course as it should be anytime the front cover is removed so the diode board doesn't get shorted out and ruined......the top sprocket alignment mark is difficult (impossible) to see without removing the bearing....mark it with paint pen clean it first ....clean it with thinners to remove the oil then paint it ...you can do the cam sprocket as well , it is a light scribe and hard to find at a glance as well.....tg.
hey man, great video! when removing the chain, make a secondary line-up mark on the crank-cam wheels when theyre out of alignment just in case someting happens.
Great Video - I've got a bit of a mechanical slapping noise on the overrun on my 1981 Airhead R65 - thinking it's the timing chain, tensioner - no noise on accelerating.. feels like it to me - would you agree before I dive in to this level and replace the chain?
It's even more difficult to get the master link to go in the other way because there's not enough room between the case and the chain. It's barely possible to get the cut link out. The new master link is even longer than the cut link, so I find it best to insert the new master link from the front. Putting the clips on takes a bit of patience but it's not all that difficult.
quick question, i have a 77 R75/7 and when i got it it ran bad at low rpm, i checked timing and was out so i moved the points plate to its max position i could and it brought it into time. now with that would you think that i am actually a tooth out on the timing chain because thats what im thinking. previous owned said he had it rebuilt but maybe they did a poor job. Is there a way to also inspect the chain without removing the cover? borescope maybe? Cheers
Not much said about the condition of the sprockets, except that they appeared serviceable. On a typical airhead that's been well maintained, should one expect that they'll need replacement at 100 k miles? I'm planning to replace the timing chain before the riding season begins, and it'd be helpful to know what I'll need to purchase before I get too deep into the procedure. Excellent video. Many thanks William!
The teeth of the sprockets to be serviceable, should be rather symmetrical in shape. If you see that there is a big difference on the drive side, you can determine the extent of the wear. Also if the ends are sharp, it may be time to replace the sprockets. When replacement is needed is really a case by case issue. At 100K, the sprockets will likely need replacement but that's not a sure thing. My best recommendation is that you remove the timing cover to assess the situation, then order the parts. If you have any doubts. please take some close-up pictures and send them to me. william(at)boxer2valve.com I will try to lead you in the right direction! Best of luck and have fun with your project!
Minor question - what was the mileage indicated at the date of your purchase … ? Can / should be considered this be indicative of normal wear on other BMW bikes …..?
Good `morning sir William and Team, I'm am a new to classic bikes and now the proud owner of a 1974 R60/6 ... I'm updating a lot of parts and the bike, her (name is Yvonne) has been neglected. I'm now down to the double timing chain, and watched your removal of said chain, brilliant thank you, with my Yvonne I have already removed the flywheel ....is it a really bad idea to remove the chain at this time or should I replace the flywheel back while I sort the chain out??? I think it wouldn't be a problem.....I'm am very nervous about this if I can't sort the timing out after.........one other thing the sprockets don't have any clear marking on them but going down to relook at this today...........any helpful advice would be greatly appreciated.....kind regards `Phil
great video! one question: my R50/5 has charging problems and I pulled the stator to clean it up, didn't come accross some resistance to separate it from rotor, meaning it came right out. is this normal? it really needed some cleaning and now will pull rotor once I have the proper tool. rotor is really old and seems on its last leg, replacing just the rotor is ok? how did you prevent engine from turning when working in that area?
Hi, Start with a 2" floor flange. It is approximately 5" in diameter. That's the most important part. Then you and use the following: a 2"-1-1/2" reducer, a 1-1/2"-1" reducer, 1"-1/2" reducer and a 1/2"-1/4" reducer. Other combinations may also be possible.
Great video guys! Could I remove the timing cover and its components before taking care of the cylinders, reversing the operations order? and should the motor be in a specific position when removing the timing cover? Thanks for such well explained videos. Half way through with my BMW R100/7! =) Getting there!!
Hi, No harm in removing the timing cover at any time. You don't need to worry about the engine position when doing so. Only when you disconnect the timing chain will this become an important issue.
Great video, excellent teaching technique. Thank you. Is it possible to wear a chain / sprocket to a point where the timing is completely out of whack and can't be adjusted? My 1985 R80 has slowly gotten harder and harder to start and now will not start no matter how much I retard or advance the timing.
@Scott Adams: I don't think that excessive chain stretch can reach the point of not being able to set the ignition timing. You may have other problems. Definitely have a look at your coil. If you still have the original old style plastic coil, that could be it. Maybe also your ignition control unit has failed. These are both pretty common issues.
How many times did you drop the c clips :-) if you did not you are a better man than I. My question too - could they have been installed reversed - maybe the master link could not be installed that way.
Hi Gerald, Having the proper tool is what is needed and in this case, it’s the right small screwdriver that can be magnetized. Please read the response to Frank’s query. I’ve not found a way to install the master link the other way around. There is just not enough space to introduce the master link the other way. Maybe someone has an idea about this and if so, I would be happy to know about it. It is my belief that the way I have shown is the path of least resistance. Even though the clip installation might be a slight PITA, it’s really not that bad. Si se puede! (Californian for you can do it!)
great video. one thing you edited out the step of how to get those retaining clips fastened onto the master link. you got them in position w/ magnetized screwdriver (easy) getting them to lock on the post was omitted (extremely tricky) please add that to the video
If you lose those little E Clips (DAMIK) you can get a whole bag of them for about 3 bucks from McMaster-Carr. They also offer a cute little clip installation tool that really helps hold that itty bitty e clip while to press it onto the master link. The E clip is for a 3-4mm size.
It's a bit easier but much the same. On the later models with a simplex chain, there is a master link so you don't need to do any grinding to break the chain. You should still begin by identifying the markings on the sprockets. Then you will need to find the deepest spot where you can remove the master link. The clip is on the front and the link needs to be removed to the rear and also reinstalled that way. So there is still some delicate work involved but it is a little bit less involved.
Good afternoon, I have watched your videos and they have helped a lot. I was recently driving and I heard a noise in the engine. I stopped to check for something loose and nothing. When I tried to start the bike I heard this noise and it didn't start anymore. I have no idea what it could be Can you help me? This is the sound th-cam.com/users/shortsWmPSlue_jM8?feature=share Thanks
Download your copy of this episode to view anytime and anywhere.
We now have Downloads of each episode and the entire series available through our website for a VERY small price!
Why pay for a download? Not only does this help ensure you will always have access to this video but it also supports our video team with proceeds for video equipment maintenance and new production gear to help us create additional 2 Valve focused videos.
Find the Digital Downloads and Parts Used in this video here: www.boxer2valve.com/r906-10-timing-cover-replace-timing-chain.html
I’m writing this a few years after you published the video but I’d like to thank you for doing so and showing the procedure so clearly and helpfully. It’s much appreciated by this London England BMW owner.
Brilliant videos, your a great teacher. Thanks for going to the trouble of producing these.
Hi, thanks for making this video of changing a double-row timing chain. QUESTION: Could you install the master link with the two small cir-clips on the front side of the chain instead of the back? Is there a reason why the clips need to be behind the chain? Thanks again.
Christ that last bit looked fiddly 👍
Hey man, great production quality! Also, thank you for these videos! There are NO OTHER VIDEOS on youtube that walk you though a timing chain replacement on these old /567's or any other in complex work for that matter. Keep up the good work, and keep being awesome!
Thank you! We'll certainly try!
x2 on this. Great production quality and step by step info. These are so good I might just start watching them during my lunch breaks for fun!
thank you Will you are the Man i have rebuilt my 1980 r65 from watching your expertise on Beemer thank again
You're welcome Alain. Thanks for watching !
Guys, to say that I'm inspired by your amazing tutorials is an understatement. Other than a pleasure to watch, you guys are educational beyond belief. Thank you so much for steering me on the right path.
I'll be shopping from you guys soon for my R45 bits and bobs. Keep up the good work fella's.
Many thanks again👍
Hi Barry! Thanks very much for your very kind words! Much appreciated and we are happy to be able to help you in some way!
Türkiye'den çok sevgiler selamlar.Sizi çok seviyoruz .Thank you.
Great video. nice and straight forward tutorial. It will make changing my r100rs timing chain easier. Thank you.
WOW 😮 WOW 😮 WOW 😮 how can you make everything look so straightforward it makes me want to buy a engine to refurbish,10 out of 10 for TH-cam videos
Years and years of practice and a dedication to the craft. Thanks for the support.
Agree with previous comment on chain clips. From my limited experience, I did not find that install so easy as you make it look. Maybe give us some additional tips/ tricks? But still overall a rocking video! You guys are getting quite a buzz on the BMW Internet forums. I own 4 Airheads and will certainly buy whatever I need that you can supply going forward. You are saving us amateurs tons of grief. Thank you!
Hi Frank, The key in my estimation is finding the right tool. Not all screwdrivers are made of the same material. You need to find one that is ferromagnetic. Rub the tip on a strong magnet, back and forth a few times then test the effectiveness on a washer or something like that. You might find that some screwdrivers are barely effected by this and then not suitable. Identify a small screwdriver that can be effectively magnetized and then you will have good control over the clip and it should push on rather easily. You'll notice that I have my glasses (reading not safety) on for this task. With these things in place, it's very possible. I hope that this helps! WP
Thank you so much for this video, very useful for the replacement of my R50/5 timing chain!
Again thanks for this video.
Thank you so much for the excellent videos!
You are very welcome! Thanks for the positive reinforcement!
Thank you for the video, very easy to watch and understand.
Thank you for such a great video
You are so welcome!
How many miles were on this bike when you found it ? Just wondering because I bought a 1974 R90/6 from my Uncle with 35K on it. Thank you so much for what I consider the best made video's on TH-cam !
bravo and thanks for the coaching
Our pleasure!
Most excellent! Thanks
Love the videos. they arevery well produced and each one a pleasure to absorb.
I have a '74 r90S so a lot of similarities with your project.
I saw where you pushed against the crankshaft (indirectly). When I took off my front cover this winter ('18), There was oil that had accumlated in the points area (it's been converted to a Boyer system). I think I've source it to the crankshaft seal. Seems there was a tear on the side of it when it was installed, from a previous timing chain replacement job.
I removed it and wanted to gear up a big washer to bear on the new seal and use a long bolt and pipe + washer affair to 'push' the new seal in place. I decided against it because I didn't want to risk 'moving' the cranshaft as advised when replacing the rear main seal. The rear main seal was replaced earlier this winter BTW, with sucess.
I ended up setting the crankshaft seal in place with the said large washer and a 3" pipe straddling the nose of the crank and hammering until being flush.
My question is: could I have used the threaded crank nose to pull on to set the seal in place?
Sorry for the long winded post, Amédée in Halifax Nova Scotia.
Once again, Thank you for your great video! Very helpful!
Thanks very much for your kind comments!
Don't forget to disconnect the battery before removing the outside cover, to avoid short-circuit in diode circuit located on the top of the timing cover.
Thanks. I am going to make one up. I have to take the front cover off my R80 to investigate a tapping noise. Previous owner put a new chain on only 8000 km ago but there is a tapping noise coming from the cover I will have to go in to sort it out.
Richard Salsman
Hello Richard, I'm interested in hearing what you found out about the tapning noise?
Nice video, just when I have to replace the chain on my R100RS, Thanks
Some are talking about the "E" clips on the master link.....sometimes difficult to install.....I grease the clip so it won't fly "as far" away if lost......then place it on the side of a flat screwdriver pushing it home with a second flat screwdriver ....I do it a little higher on the engine and plug all the holes into the engine with a rag first...!
Yes the battery is disconnected of course as it should be anytime the front cover is removed so the diode board doesn't get shorted out and ruined......the top sprocket alignment mark is difficult (impossible) to see without removing the bearing....mark it with paint pen clean it first ....clean it with thinners to remove the oil then paint it ...you can do the cam sprocket as well , it is a light scribe and hard to find at a glance as well.....tg.
hey man, great video! when removing the chain, make a secondary line-up mark on the crank-cam wheels when theyre out of alignment just in case someting happens.
Hi. Thank you. That is an excellent suggestion!
Thank you!
Hi, I would like to know where I be able to get parts for the BMW parts, I will apriciate your help!! Thank you very much!!
Great Video - I've got a bit of a mechanical slapping noise on the overrun on my 1981 Airhead R65 - thinking it's the timing chain, tensioner - no noise on accelerating.. feels like it to me - would you agree before I dive in to this level and replace the chain?
Great video. Will really help me with my 100/7. One question. Why did you put the link in from the front? Looks really fiddly to get the clips in.
I wondered about that too.
I would think clearance on the rear for the extra length the master requires is greater than the front
Master link clips looked difficult to install although you made it look easy.. Couldn't they be positioned on the outside, exposed side of the chain?
It's even more difficult to get the master link to go in the other way because there's not enough room between the case and the chain. It's barely possible to get the cut link out. The new master link is even longer than the cut link, so I find it best to insert the new master link from the front. Putting the clips on takes a bit of patience but it's not all that difficult.
@@boxer2valve Ahh, now I get it. Thanks.
Hi, would it be poosible to know the thickness (0.5 mm? 1.00? or 1.5mm?) of the gasket please. Thanks.
quick question, i have a 77 R75/7 and when i got it it ran bad at low rpm, i checked timing and was out so i moved the points plate to its max position i could and it brought it into time. now with that would you think that i am actually a tooth out on the timing chain because thats what im thinking. previous owned said he had it rebuilt but maybe they did a poor job. Is there a way to also inspect the chain without removing the cover? borescope maybe?
Cheers
Not much said about the condition of the sprockets, except that they appeared serviceable. On a typical airhead that's been well maintained, should one expect that they'll need replacement at 100 k miles? I'm planning to replace the timing chain before the riding season begins, and it'd be helpful to know what I'll need to purchase before I get too deep into the procedure. Excellent video. Many thanks William!
The teeth of the sprockets to be serviceable, should be rather symmetrical in shape. If you see that there is a big difference on the drive side, you can determine the extent of the wear. Also if the ends are sharp, it may be time to replace the sprockets. When replacement is needed is really a case by case issue. At 100K, the sprockets will likely need replacement but that's not a sure thing. My best recommendation is that you remove the timing cover to assess the situation, then order the parts. If you have any doubts. please take some close-up pictures and send them to me.
william(at)boxer2valve.com
I will try to lead you in the right direction! Best of luck and have fun with your project!
Minor question - what was the mileage indicated at the date of your purchase … ?
Can / should be considered this be indicative of normal wear on other BMW bikes …..?
Good `morning sir William and Team, I'm am a new to classic bikes and now the proud owner of a 1974 R60/6 ... I'm updating a lot of parts and the bike, her (name is Yvonne) has been neglected. I'm now down to the double timing chain, and watched your removal of said chain, brilliant thank you, with my Yvonne I have already removed the flywheel ....is it a really bad idea to remove the chain at this time or should I replace the flywheel back while I sort the chain out??? I think it wouldn't be a problem.....I'm am very nervous about this if I can't sort the timing out after.........one other thing the sprockets don't have any clear marking on them but going down to relook at this today...........any helpful advice would be greatly appreciated.....kind regards `Phil
great video!
one question: my R50/5 has charging problems and I pulled the stator to clean it up, didn't come accross some resistance to separate it from rotor, meaning it came right out.
is this normal?
it really needed some cleaning and now will pull rotor once I have the proper tool.
rotor is really old and seems on its last leg, replacing just the rotor is ok?
how did you prevent engine from turning when working in that area?
Awesome! Thanks!
You bet!
Would like to get a list of the pipe fittings used for the case cover puller. Looks like a good inexpensive option.
Hi, Start with a 2" floor flange. It is approximately 5" in diameter. That's the most important part. Then you and use the following: a 2"-1-1/2" reducer, a 1-1/2"-1" reducer, 1"-1/2" reducer and a 1/2"-1/4" reducer. Other combinations may also be possible.
How do I know the chain needs replacing other than inspecting it? Any specific noise to listen for?
Great video guys! Could I remove the timing cover and its components before taking care of the cylinders, reversing the operations order? and should the motor be in a specific position when removing the timing cover? Thanks for such well explained videos. Half way through with my BMW R100/7! =) Getting there!!
Hi, No harm in removing the timing cover at any time. You don't need to worry about the engine position when doing so. Only when you disconnect the timing chain will this become an important issue.
Also, is it necessary to install circlips on the "back" of the master link? - as opposed to installing them on the 'front".
There's no easy way to get the master link in the other way which would be required.
Great video, excellent teaching technique. Thank you. Is it possible to wear a chain / sprocket to a point where the timing is completely out of whack and can't be adjusted? My 1985 R80 has slowly gotten harder and harder to start and now will not start no matter how much I retard or advance the timing.
@Scott Adams: I don't think that excessive chain stretch can reach the point of not being able to set the ignition timing. You may have other problems. Definitely have a look at your coil. If you still have the original old style plastic coil, that could be it. Maybe also your ignition control unit has failed. These are both pretty common issues.
How many times did you drop the c clips :-) if you did not you are a better man than I. My question too - could they have been installed reversed - maybe the master link could not be installed that way.
Hi Gerald,
Having the proper tool is what is needed and in this case, it’s the right small screwdriver that can be magnetized. Please read the response to Frank’s query. I’ve not found a way to install the master link the other way around. There is just not enough space to introduce the master link the other way. Maybe someone has an idea about this and if so, I would be happy to know about it. It is my belief that the way I have shown is the path of least resistance. Even though the clip installation might be a slight PITA, it’s really not that bad. Si se puede! (Californian for you can do it!)
Good Tube
Groovy.
great video. one thing you edited out the step of how to get those retaining clips fastened onto the master link. you got them in position w/ magnetized screwdriver (easy) getting them to lock on the post was omitted (extremely tricky)
please add that to the video
If you lose those little E Clips (DAMIK) you can get a whole bag of them for about 3 bucks from McMaster-Carr. They also offer a cute little clip installation tool that really helps hold that itty bitty e clip while to press it onto the master link. The E clip is for a 3-4mm size.
Looked like he pushed them on with the screwdriver tip, the same tip he balanced them on the edge of. Tricky move
Didn’t see or hear it in the video, but did you pre-oil the chain?
Hi Richard, I don't pre-oil the chain. The chain is supplied with enough lubrication and will be coated in oil within seconds of operation.
FYI: not all models use "double-roller" timing chains...
I presume it's a little easier on the later models with the single chain.
It's a bit easier but much the same. On the later models with a simplex chain, there is a master link so you don't need to do any grinding to break the chain. You should still begin by identifying the markings on the sprockets. Then you will need to find the deepest spot where you can remove the master link. The clip is on the front and the link needs to be removed to the rear and also reinstalled that way. So there is still some delicate work involved but it is a little bit less involved.
Good afternoon,
I have watched your videos and they have helped a lot.
I was recently driving and I heard a noise in the engine. I stopped to check for something loose and nothing. When I tried to start the bike I heard this noise and it didn't start anymore. I have no idea what it could be Can you help me?
This is the sound th-cam.com/users/shortsWmPSlue_jM8?feature=share
Thanks